I just fixed half a dozen wires and a light sensor using the wire you suggested and it worked perfectly. Not only is it the right size, it is also nice and flexible. Even the white band on one of the outside wires is only on one side and is not that noticeable Thank you!
Thank you so much for sharing this tutorial and finding the perfect replacement wire! It feels good (and still purist, if I chuck the gray-printed bits and cut to the original lengths) to restore these brittle and broken elements to their original functionality. Much better than just buying more of the still-disintegrating ones and waiting for those to fall apart too… also, the price-per-quantity has gotten even better for these on Amazon since you made the video. Some of the 2x2x2/3 ABS plastic ends were difficult to work with, in terms of successfully piercing / conducting through the replacement wiring's insulation, but all in all, a super effective process and really appreciate your help!
Yeah it wasn't long after the video released the price dropped quite a bit. I don't remember how much detail I went into in the video but the blades in the 9v ends can be straightened and pushed apart slightly and that helps a lot. I very rarely have any shorts / open circuits these days after making hundreds of cables. Thanks for the comment, glad your cables are being repaired! Spread the word and make sure people don't throw away their old cables, while I can find PF cable ends online, the 9v ends are a dwindling supply
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Ah, good to know re: the 9V ends supply, and yeah, it took a while to get the hang of the internal blades… kept tweezering them to experiment with different angles, straight-up did seem the most consistently effective. Super appreciate it, man, and definitely bookmarking / sharing your video with everyone whom I know will benefit! :D
Right on, while we're at it I've also done videos for the train wires and making custom PF cables 😅. I know there are many out there who've been repairing Lego 9v wires for years, but I've never seen a better replacement wire in all my years of searching
The right wire makes all the difference in the world. In the updated tutorial I used wire I got from Ali-Express. It works just as well just takes a while to ship. I've made hundreds of wires since making this tutorial
Thanks for great video! I'm slowly getting into Mindstorms again and noticed that my old RCX 1.5 cables had deteriorated in this way. You're a life-saver, man!
I ordered the wire you recommended and it works like a charm! Many thanks!! I now have my RCX operating for the first time in years. Next I have to tackle the rotation and light sensors. Pity Lego didn't make these as serviceable as the cable connectors.
Awesome! Always glad to see an RCX put back into service 😁. Yeah the sensors are a bit of a pain, it would be nice if they were more serviceable. They can be taken apart they just have to be glued back together. To me it's less work to use a bit of solder and heatshrink than to go through all of that.
Thanks for this! Just repaired a cable in my 8485 set. Easy peasy! (Once I figured out that the little pins inside needed to be REALLY straightened out to puncture and make contact)
Awesome! Glad to help! The 8485 is such an awesome set. I think the only thing I would need to piece it together would be tons of flex cables / tubing in the correct size.
@@BatteryPoweredBricks I was lucky enough to find one that had been opened but definitely never used - it was all still in original bags inside. Immaculate. And a reasonable price 🙂
In an updated tutorial I tested some silicon insulated wire from AliExpress and it was virtually the same. Takes longer to ship but worked just as well
Thanks for a great instructive video. The wire you recommended from Amazon works perfectly. I found that using a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so on particularly difficult connectors sometimes makes it easier to get them apart. Regarding the light sensor, before cutting the wires close to the sensor I scraped off the insulation, cleaned the bare wire, then tinned it. Then it is easy to cut the wire and no need to twist it together.
I found one way that kind of refreshes old dry cables not very Damaged ones, It is not going to fix the open cables, but if you have cable that have lines, scratches and is about to brake open you can "Use industrial Fan / or move Lighter over it fast, Like Heat it, But DO NOT OVER HEAT IT Needs little bit of heat, It should not get hotter then you can touch it, it will get kind of wet and oily and you slide your finger over it and the holes gets filled and rubber gets soft.
Thank you for the video and all your others - I may attempt this however I have also thought about shrink-wrapping them. Currently looking into cable shrink that is rather thin. What are your thoughts, have you tried this? Thanks
Not sure what you mean. You mean shrink wrapping the bare spots on the original cable? If the wire sounds expensive it's cheaper than I said in the video, I actually just released a new wire tutorial a few days ago and it has links to a cheaper alternative
Thanks a lot for this! I am in the process of repairing my RCX 2.0 set cables. I fear to break the connectors though. Is there a way to get new/old connectors for cheap. I'm in Germany and most cables on ebay or such are stupidly expensive... Can You recommend some way to getting the connectors/cables cheaper?
I really wish I could. I think the connectors are a bit easier to find in the US due to the Lego DACTA sets from schools. I've been able to find third party replacement PF connectors online but I've never found a good source for 9v connectors.
I saw a post on a forum where they said they used 20 gauge wire from the same manufacturer for PF wires, that sounds too big to me. I've never needed to repair any wires, just extend. There are plenty of options for third party extension wires online. Still I may experiment with the idea at some point.
couple questions for you . I will replace the wires . Have a lot of the old cube motors and 2 rcx 1.o bricks Is it possible to connect the old motors to the battery box 16511 with adaptor 60656 ? The old motors and bricks work well in my older sets and look appropriate . Can,t program but I can run sets .
yep, the only time it's get complicated is when using PF servo motors and IR receivers. With the 60656 adapter you can run any 9v or PF motor from any 9v or PF source
Thanks! I did a video on repairing 9v train connectors as well, I was even able to reuse the ferrite choke! I think this wire or another size of it would be perfect for extending power functions wire as well 👍 I've made this video like 5 times over the years but it was never up to my standards, and I hadn't found this wire yet. I think I still have a really early / awful video on my personal channel repairing these 😅.
@@Sparky1701 I made a batch of cables for a friend the other night and had a little trouble with shorts / open circuits on a couple, it always takes a little patience but it's still my preferred method. I actually had a short when I did my train connector video, It's all about getting those blade contacts just right before snapping together. At least it only takes a few seconds to pop it back apart and try again. Most importantly have a good video going while you work, I think I was listening to one of your old ones 😅
This is such an awesome guide, thank you! The silicone wire you mentioned is PERFECT. At first I was a bit skeptical because, like you mentioned, it pulls apart pretty easily, like string cheese. Hence, I was afraid that the bond holding the wires together wasnt actually that strong, and that it might easily come apart from casual use. But, actually, it is very strong! When mine arrived, I tried pulling the wires apart laterally with my hands and it's pretty impressive just how strong the silocone bond between the wires is. And so, there is no risk for the wire pair to come apart in normal LEGO use. It's funny, if you rip it like a sheet of paper with your thumbs and fingers (like in the vid), then it rips like string cheese easily. This is fine because this is how you'd actually peel off the wires from the 6 ribbon bundle. But try pulling them apart horizontally, and it's very sturdy! Hope this explanation helps others out The look of these wires is spot-on as well!
Any tips on how to get the tabs to cut through the wire? I've straightened out the tabs every time, but still hovering around 10% success rate and if it fails it's much harder to open it up again. I've tried peeling apart the pair of wires at the tips but that doesn't help.
What kind of wire are you using? I've tried tons of wire over the years and silicon insulated wire is the only thing that seems to work well with the blades
@@BatteryPoweredBricks I'm using the stuff linked in the video description. I'm going to try filing off the clips - won't help with the blades but at least it'll be easier to retry when it fails.
hmm. It's one of those things that improves with practice but a 10% success rate is super low. At my worst I maybe had a 10% failure rate. I'm not really sure what the issue could be 🤔
forgive my stupid question, but how the wires conected to the metal plate when you never peeled the insulation? does it cut automaticly and make connection with the wire when assembled? great video! and please dont trow away those cables, they are precious :) send them to me :))
How long a run would you say you could get away with using this wire without voltage drop? I'm looking at making an extension to put a second power feeder on my train loops and would just as soon use the whole 25 ft. length if it's not a performance liability to do so.
That's a good question. I wouldn't want to make any assumptions without trying it in the real world. I haven't had the need to make cables that long, or a layout big enough to need multiple power feeders. The only exception was my "button controlled layout" but that was just powering the track on either side of an isolated section, so the wires were short.
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Well, I had a suggestion in Discord that 24-gauge wire should be able to carry 3 amps as far as 100 feet so I ordered a 50-foot spool and we'll see if a 30-foot extension works. Experimentation!
It will handle the current just fine, but that doesn't say much about voltage drop. Let me know how it goes! The wire is good to have on hand, I've made all kinds of custom 9v and PF cables and adapters 👍
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Found a voltage drop calculator that suggests I might lose around 0.6v over a 30ft. extension. I ordered a few extra wires to harvest connectors from; I think the best approach will probably be to make a few different lengths and use the shortest one necessary for each show. 👍
I have an updated tutorial that has somewhat better views. All of this is recorded with my cell phone. I'll link the updated video ua-cam.com/video/mcp5PppGfuc/v-deo.htmlsi=b0V-xvTMu2NPBN5z
Hi, I've got a 12cm 9v wire that's got virtually no insulation left on it at all, so this may be useful. Don't you need to strip the insulation off the ends of the new wires to make the electrical connection though, or isn't it necessary?
Nope, there are two blade contacts inside that pierce the insulation and make contact. It's a good idea to make sure they are nice and straight before snapping the connector shut.
The square connectors for the motors and sensors. I've tried Aliexpress and see none. All I can find is old new stock of the extension cable that has them and they are overpriced.@@BatteryPoweredBricks
I've looked high and low as well. In the updated tutorial I have links to buy Power Functions connectors but have never found 9v connectors. I've seen some sellers on eBay sell bulk Lego 9v wire that needs repair, that's probably the cheapest way to get connectors. Most of mine came from bulk lots I bought online
No, but I've seen others do it. There isn't a non-destructive way to get them apart, otherwise I would have. I have tons of sensors so I didn't want to invest that kind of time per sensor
Hi batterypoweredbricks thanks for making this video on how to change the old wires from the 9volt connectors in technic sets I had brought some wires 15 20 69 and 169 and I also brought the wire your using it’s great and even better than the original lego wire better made I had brought a second 69 wire for the set 8480 and it came in damaged state and it needed a brand new wire and I changed all the wires I brought every set thanks for the helpful tip how replace the old dry damaged wires that are over 30 years old
Sure thing! Lego has always made products that stand against the test of time, with the exception of these wires. Glad to help Lego fans get their old 9v sets going again 😀
I mean I would pay more for wire that will last. I don't sell any repaired wire because I build big projects that may use a few dozen 9v connectors. I'm worried about running out one day 😅. My day job keeps me very busy I'm barely able to keep up with my upload schedule much less do anything extra like repairs. Maybe one day...
I like the 24 gauge wire since it works great with Power Functions as well and fits between studs etc. The main thing for me was finding wire with silicon insulation
and I was having to solder mine as the wire I had wouldn't push in as the one you found did. that is a pain as the metal needs scraping to take the solder and the plastic distorts with the heat if you're not quick. So your solution is much better
@@jimlewis1 It's worked great for me, I've made dozens of cables and even a few for friends. I've had no issues with them as long as the initial snap doesn't cause a short
@@slashk It's linked in the description (Amazon). It's BNTechGo 24 gauge ultra flexible silicone tinned copper wire (I use 6 conductor but 2 or 4 works as well). If you have trouble finding it let me know what country you are in.
Such a shame for the longevity of Lego being compromised, the support for the initial Mindstorms was pretty bad too. Not much like Lego at all. My isolation completely flaked off, which makes the Lego a hazard. Oh well, nothing lasts, not even Lego.
I've heard the faulty insulation was due to a fire resistant chemical used in manufacturing. It's possible this was something they had to do to be complaint or maybe out of an abundance of caution. Either way it's unfortunate the chemical doesn't stand the test of time, but I doubt there was a way for them to know back then.
I have the Lego set 6979 ufo starfighter, the cables are perished and needs replacing, thank you for an excellent tutorial, I’m going to buy this cable from Amazon and make an atempt to repair it😃👍🫡
Nice! I was so close to buying that set recently but space is at a premium. All of the Time Cruisers sets that R.R. Slugger talked me into have been in a box since I bought them 😅. I really need to work on a display solution. Best of luck restoring the set and feel free to reach out if you need any help. BTW have you tested the motor yet?
@@BatteryPoweredBricks i have the complete set of the ufo series and the insectoids, however I spotted a second starfighter for sale about 10 years ago but the motor didn’t work so bought a new one. I’ve recently been washing the sets as they’ve accumulated tons of dust on them and noticed the wires have become brittle, I’ve already dismantled the wire blocks and cleaned them up with isopropyl to remove any residue. The length of the cable should be 15L so placed them on a large plate like on your video, I don’t have an electric tester so just going for broke lol, if the wire I’m about to buy from Amazon is ok then I shouldn’t have any problems😁
The micromotor that came with the second set didn’t work, I had a go at trying to dismantle it but gave up in the end,I saw a video on UA-cam about these having problems around 1993 onwards, I’ve had no trouble with the ones I’ve got so far (touch wood)
![Motor und Sensor Kompatibilität für LEGO 9V, Power Functions, Powered Up & Mindstorms [Deutsch|HD]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Nzyh1dEdel4/mqdefault.jpg)
![LEGO® 9 Volt Kabel für Züge reparieren [Tutorial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/84tsdwIf-kE/mqdefault.jpg)
I just fixed half a dozen wires and a light sensor using the wire you suggested and it worked perfectly. Not only is it the right size, it is also nice and flexible. Even the white band on one of the outside wires is only on one side and is not that noticeable Thank you!
Thanks for commenting, always glad to hear this 👍
Thanks for the help! Was worried my Unitron monorail would never run again, but this video really helped!
I have 7 RCXs and a ton of sensors and wires, all of the wires are deteriorated and need replacing! That’s for this!
Thank you so much for sharing this tutorial and finding the perfect replacement wire! It feels good (and still purist, if I chuck the gray-printed bits and cut to the original lengths) to restore these brittle and broken elements to their original functionality. Much better than just buying more of the still-disintegrating ones and waiting for those to fall apart too… also, the price-per-quantity has gotten even better for these on Amazon since you made the video. Some of the 2x2x2/3 ABS plastic ends were difficult to work with, in terms of successfully piercing / conducting through the replacement wiring's insulation, but all in all, a super effective process and really appreciate your help!
Yeah it wasn't long after the video released the price dropped quite a bit. I don't remember how much detail I went into in the video but the blades in the 9v ends can be straightened and pushed apart slightly and that helps a lot. I very rarely have any shorts / open circuits these days after making hundreds of cables. Thanks for the comment, glad your cables are being repaired! Spread the word and make sure people don't throw away their old cables, while I can find PF cable ends online, the 9v ends are a dwindling supply
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Ah, good to know re: the 9V ends supply, and yeah, it took a while to get the hang of the internal blades… kept tweezering them to experiment with different angles, straight-up did seem the most consistently effective. Super appreciate it, man, and definitely bookmarking / sharing your video with everyone whom I know will benefit! :D
Right on, while we're at it I've also done videos for the train wires and making custom PF cables 😅. I know there are many out there who've been repairing Lego 9v wires for years, but I've never seen a better replacement wire in all my years of searching
Thank you so much for this video - I have replaced many wires over the years, but ordered the wire you us today. I can't wait to try out this wire!
The right wire makes all the difference in the world. In the updated tutorial I used wire I got from Ali-Express. It works just as well just takes a while to ship. I've made hundreds of wires since making this tutorial
Thanks for great video! I'm slowly getting into Mindstorms again and noticed that my old RCX 1.5 cables had deteriorated in this way. You're a life-saver, man!
Awesome! Glad to help 😀
I ordered the wire you recommended and it works like a charm! Many thanks!! I now have my RCX operating for the first time in years.
Next I have to tackle the rotation and light sensors. Pity Lego didn't make these as serviceable as the cable connectors.
Awesome! Always glad to see an RCX put back into service 😁. Yeah the sensors are a bit of a pain, it would be nice if they were more serviceable. They can be taken apart they just have to be glued back together. To me it's less work to use a bit of solder and heatshrink than to go through all of that.
Thanks for this! Just repaired a cable in my 8485 set. Easy peasy! (Once I figured out that the little pins inside needed to be REALLY straightened out to puncture and make contact)
Awesome! Glad to help! The 8485 is such an awesome set. I think the only thing I would need to piece it together would be tons of flex cables / tubing in the correct size.
@@BatteryPoweredBricks I was lucky enough to find one that had been opened but definitely never used - it was all still in original bags inside. Immaculate. And a reasonable price 🙂
Not the cheapest one but the best. Thanks a lot for finding this wire! Great video.
In an updated tutorial I tested some silicon insulated wire from AliExpress and it was virtually the same. Takes longer to ship but worked just as well
Thanks for a great instructive video. The wire you recommended from Amazon works perfectly. I found that using a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so on particularly difficult connectors sometimes makes it easier to get them apart. Regarding the light sensor, before cutting the wires close to the sensor I scraped off the insulation, cleaned the bare wire, then tinned it. Then it is easy to cut the wire and no need to twist it together.
I've been spoiled, whenever I come across a troublesome connector I just grab another one 😅
This vid is really amazing and helpful thanks for sharing!
Sure thing! Thanks 🙂
thanks. I just got set 6979 interstellar starfighter a week ago from my local bricks and minifigs. now i just need to see if the motor is correct.
Those micromotors are notorious for seizing up. In fact R.R. Slugger just put a video out about them today 😅
@@BatteryPoweredBricks just came from that video. Only problem is exposed wire so im not willing to test it out.
I found one way that kind of refreshes old dry cables not very Damaged ones, It is not going to fix the open cables, but if you have cable that have lines, scratches and is about to brake open you can "Use industrial Fan / or move Lighter over it fast, Like Heat it, But DO NOT OVER HEAT IT Needs little bit of heat, It should not get hotter then you can touch it, it will get kind of wet and oily and you slide your finger over it and the holes gets filled and rubber gets soft.
I thought about trying that at some point. After finding this wire as a replacement I'd rather just repair them.
Thank you for the video and all your others - I may attempt this however I have also thought about shrink-wrapping them. Currently looking into cable shrink that is rather thin. What are your thoughts, have you tried this? Thanks
Not sure what you mean. You mean shrink wrapping the bare spots on the original cable? If the wire sounds expensive it's cheaper than I said in the video, I actually just released a new wire tutorial a few days ago and it has links to a cheaper alternative
Thank you for this tutorial!
Thank you, this is very helpful.
Thanks a lot for this! I am in the process of repairing my RCX 2.0 set cables. I fear to break the connectors though. Is there a way to get new/old connectors for cheap. I'm in Germany and most cables on ebay or such are stupidly expensive... Can You recommend some way to getting the connectors/cables cheaper?
I really wish I could. I think the connectors are a bit easier to find in the US due to the Lego DACTA sets from schools. I've been able to find third party replacement PF connectors online but I've never found a good source for 9v connectors.
I'm wondering if that ribbon cable can also repair Power Functions wire...
I saw a post on a forum where they said they used 20 gauge wire from the same manufacturer for PF wires, that sounds too big to me. I've never needed to repair any wires, just extend. There are plenty of options for third party extension wires online. Still I may experiment with the idea at some point.
couple questions for you . I will replace the wires . Have a lot of the old cube motors and 2 rcx 1.o bricks Is it possible to connect the old motors to the battery box 16511 with adaptor 60656 ? The old motors and bricks work well in my older sets and look appropriate . Can,t program but I can run sets .
yep, the only time it's get complicated is when using PF servo motors and IR receivers. With the 60656 adapter you can run any 9v or PF motor from any 9v or PF source
This is wonderful! Nicely done!
Thanks! I did a video on repairing 9v train connectors as well, I was even able to reuse the ferrite choke! I think this wire or another size of it would be perfect for extending power functions wire as well 👍
I've made this video like 5 times over the years but it was never up to my standards, and I hadn't found this wire yet. I think I still have a really early / awful video on my personal channel repairing these 😅.
@@BatteryPoweredBricks I've repaired before, but I like your way here better. I've ordered the ribbon cable from Amazon and i'll test :)
@@Sparky1701 I made a batch of cables for a friend the other night and had a little trouble with shorts / open circuits on a couple, it always takes a little patience but it's still my preferred method. I actually had a short when I did my train connector video, It's all about getting those blade contacts just right before snapping together. At least it only takes a few seconds to pop it back apart and try again.
Most importantly have a good video going while you work, I think I was listening to one of your old ones 😅
This is such an awesome guide, thank you!
The silicone wire you mentioned is PERFECT.
At first I was a bit skeptical because, like you mentioned, it pulls apart pretty easily, like string cheese. Hence, I was afraid that the bond holding the wires together wasnt actually that strong, and that it might easily come apart from casual use. But, actually, it is very strong! When mine arrived, I tried pulling the wires apart laterally with my hands and it's pretty impressive just how strong the silocone bond between the wires is. And so, there is no risk for the wire pair to come apart in normal LEGO use.
It's funny, if you rip it like a sheet of paper with your thumbs and fingers (like in the vid), then it rips like string cheese easily. This is fine because this is how you'd actually peel off the wires from the 6 ribbon bundle. But try pulling them apart horizontally, and it's very sturdy!
Hope this explanation helps others out
The look of these wires is spot-on as well!
Do you have a link for where to buy the heat shrink?
I don't, we buy big rolls of it from DigiKey. There are lots of variety packs online with different sizes
Any tips on how to get the tabs to cut through the wire? I've straightened out the tabs every time, but still hovering around 10% success rate and if it fails it's much harder to open it up again. I've tried peeling apart the pair of wires at the tips but that doesn't help.
What kind of wire are you using? I've tried tons of wire over the years and silicon insulated wire is the only thing that seems to work well with the blades
@@BatteryPoweredBricks I'm using the stuff linked in the video description. I'm going to try filing off the clips - won't help with the blades but at least it'll be easier to retry when it fails.
hmm. It's one of those things that improves with practice but a 10% success rate is super low. At my worst I maybe had a 10% failure rate. I'm not really sure what the issue could be 🤔
forgive my stupid question, but how the wires conected to the metal plate when you never peeled the insulation? does it cut automaticly and make connection with the wire when assembled?
great video!
and please dont trow away those cables, they are precious :) send them to me :))
Yes it is a split blade that pierces the wire and makes contact without any soldering or needing to strip the wires 👍
How long a run would you say you could get away with using this wire without voltage drop? I'm looking at making an extension to put a second power feeder on my train loops and would just as soon use the whole 25 ft. length if it's not a performance liability to do so.
That's a good question. I wouldn't want to make any assumptions without trying it in the real world. I haven't had the need to make cables that long, or a layout big enough to need multiple power feeders. The only exception was my "button controlled layout" but that was just powering the track on either side of an isolated section, so the wires were short.
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Well, I had a suggestion in Discord that 24-gauge wire should be able to carry 3 amps as far as 100 feet so I ordered a 50-foot spool and we'll see if a 30-foot extension works. Experimentation!
It will handle the current just fine, but that doesn't say much about voltage drop. Let me know how it goes! The wire is good to have on hand, I've made all kinds of custom 9v and PF cables and adapters 👍
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Found a voltage drop calculator that suggests I might lose around 0.6v over a 30ft. extension. I ordered a few extra wires to harvest connectors from; I think the best approach will probably be to make a few different lengths and use the shortest one necessary for each show. 👍
Cant see close enough where to put the screwdriver to open which part?!!!!
I have an updated tutorial that has somewhat better views. All of this is recorded with my cell phone. I'll link the updated video
ua-cam.com/video/mcp5PppGfuc/v-deo.htmlsi=b0V-xvTMu2NPBN5z
Hi, I've got a 12cm 9v wire that's got virtually no insulation left on it at all, so this may be useful. Don't you need to strip the insulation off the ends of the new wires to make the electrical connection though, or isn't it necessary?
Nope, there are two blade contacts inside that pierce the insulation and make contact. It's a good idea to make sure they are nice and straight before snapping the connector shut.
Do you happen to know where to get the RCX sockets, I can't see them on aliexpress or anywhere else?
The barrel jack for power? Or do you mean the 9v connectors for the wires?
The square connectors for the motors and sensors. I've tried Aliexpress and see none. All I can find is old new stock of the extension cable that has them and they are overpriced.@@BatteryPoweredBricks
I've looked high and low as well. In the updated tutorial I have links to buy Power Functions connectors but have never found 9v connectors. I've seen some sellers on eBay sell bulk Lego 9v wire that needs repair, that's probably the cheapest way to get connectors. Most of mine came from bulk lots I bought online
Yeah it's weird there's none on aliexpress. I was thinking of 3d printing them but they would be too brittle @@BatteryPoweredBricks
If I ever find a replacement for them I will for sure be uploading a video testing them out
Did try to actually open sensor to solder new wire directly to the board inside?
No, but I've seen others do it. There isn't a non-destructive way to get them apart, otherwise I would have. I have tons of sensors so I didn't want to invest that kind of time per sensor
Hi batterypoweredbricks thanks for making this video on how to change the old wires from the 9volt connectors in technic sets I had brought some wires 15 20 69 and 169 and I also brought the wire your using it’s great and even better than the original lego wire better made I had brought a second 69 wire for the set 8480 and it came in damaged state and it needed a brand new wire and I changed all the wires I brought every set thanks for the helpful tip how replace the old dry damaged wires that are over 30 years old
Sure thing! Lego has always made products that stand against the test of time, with the exception of these wires. Glad to help Lego fans get their old 9v sets going again 😀
Thanks again I had brought used ones from bricklink for some sets and they were in bad shape dry and falling apart
Does repairing increase the resale value by any chance? 😕
You sure are a true expert!
Do you sell the repaired products on Bricklink?
I mean I would pay more for wire that will last. I don't sell any repaired wire because I build big projects that may use a few dozen 9v connectors. I'm worried about running out one day 😅. My day job keeps me very busy I'm barely able to keep up with my upload schedule much less do anything extra like repairs. Maybe one day...
I just use the connectors, but with 20 gauge wire
I like the 24 gauge wire since it works great with Power Functions as well and fits between studs etc. The main thing for me was finding wire with silicon insulation
The key is getting the right wire. I have a whole box of popped apart power connectors, just waiting for the right wire.
and I was having to solder mine as the wire I had wouldn't push in as the one you found did. that is a pain as the metal needs scraping to take the solder and the plastic distorts with the heat if you're not quick. So your solution is much better
@@jimlewis1 It's worked great for me, I've made dozens of cables and even a few for friends. I've had no issues with them as long as the initial snap doesn't cause a short
@@BatteryPoweredBricks can You please tell what excacly cable You are using ? I cant find the exact one. Thank You in advance
@@slashk It's linked in the description (Amazon). It's BNTechGo 24 gauge ultra flexible silicone tinned copper wire (I use 6 conductor but 2 or 4 works as well). If you have trouble finding it let me know what country you are in.
@@BatteryPoweredBricks i missed that, thank You and gr8 video. Keep it up :)
Such a shame for the longevity of Lego being compromised, the support for the initial Mindstorms was pretty bad too. Not much like Lego at all. My isolation completely flaked off, which makes the Lego a hazard. Oh well, nothing lasts, not even Lego.
I've heard the faulty insulation was due to a fire resistant chemical used in manufacturing. It's possible this was something they had to do to be complaint or maybe out of an abundance of caution. Either way it's unfortunate the chemical doesn't stand the test of time, but I doubt there was a way for them to know back then.
By the way, send me a 200 foot spool 20 gauge wire in red and black
I have the Lego set 6979 ufo starfighter, the cables are perished and needs replacing, thank you for an excellent tutorial, I’m going to buy this cable from Amazon and make an atempt to repair it😃👍🫡
Nice! I was so close to buying that set recently but space is at a premium. All of the Time Cruisers sets that R.R. Slugger talked me into have been in a box since I bought them 😅. I really need to work on a display solution. Best of luck restoring the set and feel free to reach out if you need any help. BTW have you tested the motor yet?
@@BatteryPoweredBricks i have the complete set of the ufo series and the insectoids, however I spotted a second starfighter for sale about 10 years ago but the motor didn’t work so bought a new one. I’ve recently been washing the sets as they’ve accumulated tons of dust on them and noticed the wires have become brittle, I’ve already dismantled the wire blocks and cleaned them up with isopropyl to remove any residue. The length of the cable should be 15L so placed them on a large plate like on your video, I don’t have an electric tester so just going for broke lol, if the wire I’m about to buy from Amazon is ok then I shouldn’t have any problems😁
The micromotor that came with the second set didn’t work, I had a go at trying to dismantle it but gave up in the end,I saw a video on UA-cam about these having problems around 1993 onwards, I’ve had no trouble with the ones I’ve got so far (touch wood)