Thanks for the tutorial, it helped me fix the cables of my space shuttle with some generic 24AWG 2pin cable from aliexpress :) These cables were the first I encountered with a fraying insulation. Every other 9V set I owned (all of them pre-1993, like 8720, 8868, 8094, 8082) have a round, hard and shiny insulation that lasts to this day. The 1996 space shuttle has a squarish rubber insulation that is pretty much worthless 26 years later.
@@NonsenseWars Sorry but I can't answer that question because I didn't replace the wire at all. The connection that goes onto the transformer was frayed and was causing it too short out. So as per your video I got the two halves apart cut down to where the wire was still pretty good and reassembled. Some day the wire will probably need to replaced entirely but for now it's working great.
It's just generic 22-gauge wire I had lying around. It's not quite exactly the right size; if I were to buy something specifically for this project I'd probably use a slightly smaller gauge. Cheers!
I opted to avoid using the "teeth" to cut into the wire insulation and instead just stripped the ends and soldered them directly to the plate inside a stud on each side. A little cutting away of the plastic on the insertion plate so that everything fit and I had what I feel is a stronger/better connection long term. If you have an iron and soldering skills I'd recommend it.
This is a viable solution, though I don't think the teeth are usually an issue long term despite being fiddly to assemble. I would worry about distorting the plastic if you don't solder fast enough... unless you are removing the metal part first?
@@NonsenseWars Yeah, I was worried about melting the plastic. Luckily I have a nice Halkko that I can set the temp on and a decent amount of experience so I was able to get the solder dropped in very quickly. I didn't remove the metal insert, did it in situ. Like I said, really only an option if you're comfortable with your soldering equipment/skills.
Unrelated to the content of the video, but I'm curious what keyboard is visible early in the video? I'm a sucker for mechanical/retro-looking keyboards haha
Thanks for the video, very helpful. In my case, The wire I had on hand is too thick for those flimsy pins to cut through, so, I ended up stripping the ends of the wire & soldering them onto the metal inside the connector. Also, I stabbed the crap outta my hands getting the darn thing open. I got this one done, but, I still have several more to do. Plus some Mindstorms Light & Rotation Sensors. Before I proceed I'm going to get some thinner wire & a box of Band-Aids. wish me luck.
Yeah, I have been stripping the wire more often now for these repairs. Finding a good source of more appropriate wire has apparently been challenging. We went to a local electronics store and there was literally no 24 gauge wire selection at all!
@@NonsenseWars I found some 2 strand 26 Gauge wire on ebay. I'm waiting for it to be shipped to me. I'm also cooking up an idea for a DIY electrical lead. I'll keep you posted on how that goes.
Bonjour Savez vous où je peux acheter les câbles pour pouvoir les réparer et faire fonctionner ma navette spatiale Je ne sais pas lesquels prendre ni sur quel site Merci de votre réponse
@@talaniel Yes, I think he was talking about the track connector in set 4559 too. On the regulator side the connector should be the same, but on the track side... we haven't tried to take those apart yet heh.
Hello, you should be able to use any old 22 or 24 gauge wire. We got ours at Fry's, but they are of course dead. Try your local hardware store or even Amazon.
It's 24 gauge, but you have to be more about the size and material of the insulation. You don't want it too thick or too tough or it becomes very hard to get the teeth in.
Thanks for the video, it made me courageous enough to fix my old lego cable so that my son can play with my old electric motor :-) Btw. I love your voltmeter, how old is it? :-) I have a similar piece, but it no longer works :-(
Thank you sir, I have just fixed a cable of a Space Shuttle with your help :) Rocket Science!
You're welcome! Glad the video helped!
Thanks for the tutorial, it helped me fix the cables of my space shuttle with some generic 24AWG 2pin cable from aliexpress :) These cables were the first I encountered with a fraying insulation. Every other 9V set I owned (all of them pre-1993, like 8720, 8868, 8094, 8082) have a round, hard and shiny insulation that lasts to this day. The 1996 space shuttle has a squarish rubber insulation that is pretty much worthless 26 years later.
Yeah, everything after that period uses the new material. It's very unfortunate.
Thank you very much for this very instructional video. Using this I was able to repair my LEGO 9V train track connector.
I have yet to try doing the track connectors... is it hard to open the part that actually joins to the track?
@@NonsenseWars Sorry but I can't answer that question because I didn't replace the wire at all. The connection that goes onto the transformer was frayed and was causing it too short out. So as per your video I got the two halves apart cut down to where the wire was still pretty good and reassembled. Some day the wire will probably need to replaced entirely but for now it's working great.
Gray silicone two strand 24AWG works perfect. And you can easily wash off the grey polarity markings with IPA
Hello, do you have a link to the product you used?
I just took the brown/brown white twisted pair from a Cat6 cable and punched that down into the teeth. It brought my old 2001 Lego train back to life.
Ha ha, that's a bit unconventional but if it works it works! Thanks for sharing!
Where did you find those black wires of the same size? What size are them?
It's just generic 22-gauge wire I had lying around. It's not quite exactly the right size; if I were to buy something specifically for this project I'd probably use a slightly smaller gauge.
Cheers!
I opted to avoid using the "teeth" to cut into the wire insulation and instead just stripped the ends and soldered them directly to the plate inside a stud on each side. A little cutting away of the plastic on the insertion plate so that everything fit and I had what I feel is a stronger/better connection long term. If you have an iron and soldering skills I'd recommend it.
This is a viable solution, though I don't think the teeth are usually an issue long term despite being fiddly to assemble. I would worry about distorting the plastic if you don't solder fast enough... unless you are removing the metal part first?
@@NonsenseWars Yeah, I was worried about melting the plastic. Luckily I have a nice Halkko that I can set the temp on and a decent amount of experience so I was able to get the solder dropped in very quickly. I didn't remove the metal insert, did it in situ. Like I said, really only an option if you're comfortable with your soldering equipment/skills.
Unrelated to the content of the video, but I'm curious what keyboard is visible early in the video? I'm a sucker for mechanical/retro-looking keyboards haha
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Model_M_keyboard. Mine is a 1989 build and I've been using it since 2010ish :D
Hi, what kind of cross-section should be the new cable?
Check out this timestamp: ua-cam.com/video/MeRDlkXk-iI/v-deo.html... that's the cable we are recommending right now!
Thanks for the video, very helpful. In my case, The wire I had on hand is too thick for those flimsy pins to cut through, so, I ended up stripping the ends of the wire & soldering them onto the metal inside the connector. Also, I stabbed the crap outta my hands getting the darn thing open. I got this one done, but, I still have several more to do. Plus some Mindstorms Light & Rotation Sensors. Before I proceed I'm going to get some thinner wire & a box of Band-Aids. wish me luck.
Yeah, I have been stripping the wire more often now for these repairs. Finding a good source of more appropriate wire has apparently been challenging. We went to a local electronics store and there was literally no 24 gauge wire selection at all!
@@NonsenseWars I found some 2 strand 26 Gauge wire on ebay. I'm waiting for it to be shipped to me. I'm also cooking up an idea for a DIY electrical lead. I'll keep you posted on how that goes.
Thank you I subscribed i love gbc and lego trains.
ahh all the cables on my 8480 Space Shuttle have crumbled too, I´m looking to replace those
It's really bad tbh! At first I thought it was just a few sets, but it's basically all the Technic sets from my childhood.
Bonjour
Savez vous où je peux acheter les câbles pour pouvoir les réparer et faire fonctionner ma navette spatiale
Je ne sais pas lesquels prendre ni sur quel site
Merci de votre réponse
You should be able to use any old 22 or 24 gauge wire. Try your local hardware store or even Amazon.
Ah moi aussi j'essaie de réparer ma navette ! Vous avez pris quoi comme cable alors ?
@@alexandrekoch9860 We used 22 gauge, but as I said in the video, I think it's a little thick. Or perhaps if you can find a 22 with a softer coating.
nice!
: )
This repair guide also works for Lego System 4559
Hi, are you talking about set 4559? I can't find a part that's numbered 4559.
@@NonsenseWars I think Lego System was a series of sets before Lego City was introduced. I think Andreas was talking about a railway set.
@@talaniel Yes, I think he was talking about the track connector in set 4559 too. On the regulator side the connector should be the same, but on the track side... we haven't tried to take those apart yet heh.
thanks for the tip
Where you find the cable? Any specific name?
Hello, you should be able to use any old 22 or 24 gauge wire. We got ours at Fry's, but they are of course dead. Try your local hardware store or even Amazon.
what gauge of the wire is needed?
It's 24 gauge, but you have to be more about the size and material of the insulation. You don't want it too thick or too tough or it becomes very hard to get the teeth in.
Thanks for the video, it made me courageous enough to fix my old lego cable so that my son can play with my old electric motor :-) Btw. I love your voltmeter, how old is it? :-) I have a similar piece, but it no longer works :-(
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing. The multimeter is probably from the late 70s. I'm guessing my dad used it in college!
@@NonsenseWars Nice :-) The one I have belonged to my grandpa :-)
is it possible to connect a 9V wall adapter this way?
I hadn't thought about that, but yes! It should work.
@@NonsenseWars I'm gonna try that soon in that case.
@@Speedrock1987 Do tell how it goes!
So long as its output is DC, yes, of course.