You just saved me thousands, I did exactly what you did, it took me a couple of hours because I couldn’t get the bottom bolt loose but I did it, and now my car works like new! I appreciate you sir! ❤
My son's Malibu pump got bad and it was this part that got bad. It was interesting to discover the brake booster had dedicated vacuum pump! It was clear that having frequent oil changes to keep it from going bad! Thank God, it had not disintegrated yet.
I have one of these cars and I’m always fixing it got it off a used car lot 10/24/2022 and since I had it this car had really really been giving me hell
It is a common failure, but they usually last way past warranty and recalls are usually only safety related or if something fails just out of warranty. But if enough are failing they should.
@@JimmyMakingitwork They have a class action lawsuit going. mine just went bad. dumbass at inspection place failed me siting metal on metal brake pads in comments.
Got 93,000 on my 2015 malibu 2.5L . No issues at all ever actually however going to do a tuneup . Would you recommend just putting a new one on now and ve done with it . Thks! Great video
@Jimmy, If it goes bad can't it damage the cam? Or anything else , I feel at 92k miles if it's gunna cause possibly more damage then makes sense to swap it, OR does it only break the ear off. Thx for your replys
Be sure to check the cam where it drives the pump. The ears can sometimes be damaged and the pump won't be turning at the proper RPM. It is also possible to get defective parts, it has been getting worse lately in that department, sadly.
So if I pull the line off the pump I should feel no vacuum being pulled? It sucks my finger down. I just replaced my pump about 2-3 months ago but now the brakes locked up again and I’m getting 0556 again but I can feel a vacuum still
Mine shattered, had to tear it apart to get all the pieces. Now I'm battling crankshaft and camshaft PS codes. 3 sensors replaced so far... still going, elbow deep currently.
@Jimmy, Making it work thankfully it was big chunks and found them all. Screens were clean but replaced the sensors anyways and both camshaft position sensors, still have to replace the crank position sensor. Getting a p0014 and 17 code.
Just the video i was looking for, thanks for that man great video. I have a question about the vacuum pump, the gear on it that connects to the cam does it only go one way?
@JimmyMakingitwork thank you, I just changed the vacuum pump, but now I hear a clicking noise and sounds faster when I accelerate. Could I have a bad pump?
So does removing the vacuum hose cause you to need to bleed your breaks?? Im about to replace mine. And all the shops are telling me this is a 4 hr job... what could possible make this job over 3 hrs?
You should only have to bleed air from the brakes if you open hydraulic lines or hoses. The vacuum pump can be done in less time if you can work around the tight area it’s in. But the labor guide allows for removing more components that are “kind of” in the way.
I’m stuck at the oil change shop and my car won’t turn on the brakes were bad like this as I drove to the oil change place I think it’s the vacuum. Is there anything there I can do myself to start the car?
@@JimmyMakingitwork Hate when that happens. Good stuff tho. Thanks for the content man.keeo it going. I'll have a toolbox tour here soon working on moving into my first house with my wife at the moment but once that's done I'll figure out a day to do it
IF you have a no crank condition after repairs look at the battery cables closely, power and grounds. If they check out I'd check for power and ground at the starter or see if there are any immobilizer codes set?
These supply vacuum to the brakes and possibly other things. I suppose it could be bypassed for a different style vacuum pump, like an electric one. It would require replumbing, wiring and other modifications. Not sure if would be worth it.
Also tpms flashing means there’s a problem with the system, like a dead sensor, doesn’t mean a tire is low, if the light initially comes on solid and stays solid, then one or more of the tires is low
I drive Chevy trucks for work, and they break a lot more than the Fords. But then nothing really goes bad on an f-650 all I'm saying. Love the content though.
I would pull it back out, if the leak seems to be behind it, and see if the seals lip is torn or flipped. Might need to buy a replacement seal to see how it’s supposed to look if unfamiliar.
All you have to do is flush your oil change it fresh take off the brake vacuum pump clean it out put it back on and it works. Problem is the small screen gets plugged and it needs to circulate oil.
Take it off after you flush your motor with oil engine cleaner. Change your oil. Take off brake booster pump. Clean it there's a small screen that get plugged put it on and boom. You're good. I ordered a new brake booster pump and it was supposed to be correct part but bolt pattern and bolts size were way off.
There are a few seals back there, but the vacuum pump housing seal might be the one you mean? It sits in the back of the cylinder head. The Rear crankshaft seal is a separate repair from the vacuum pump.
Turbocharged engines are often under manifold pressure, so there is no vacuum for power brakes and other accessories. So a pump, similar to how a Diesel engine provides vacuum, is how they provide it.
I just had to replace mine, in a 19 Malibu it was all in the cam shaft and I was just wondering what caused it to go. got the part swapped out and cam cleaned up and the car is running great but it’s a peculiar part to begin with in my opinion.
Prime example why I dont even look at buying american now. Been a Ford guy my entire life, owned a Taurus Sable Explorer Escape and a Plymouth Breeze somewhere in-between, all went to shit. Fords all rotted away but the Escape with the 03 Duratec V6 proved exceptionally reliable engine wise, the rest of the body rotted away. Now everything is plastic and what parts are metal are horribly designed. A cam shaft driven vac pump that gets oil starved by design, and hopefully wont shear the cam shaft pins when it fails, dropping them into the engine to cause so much more damage. My daughter had the nightmare Cruze turbo, all kinds of parts and work required, glad she traded it in for a Nissan.
how to know if it is the intake or exhaust camshaft that is damaged??? What about the sensor too? the car starts hard and the engine shakes. help me please
@@JimmyMakingitwork my car doing the same thing I may need to come to you I'm in the polkcounty area it's been stressful trying to figure out why my brakes lock up and when I put the car in drive it don't move brakes hard and stiff its to much
You just saved me thousands, I did exactly what you did, it took me a couple of hours because I couldn’t get the bottom bolt loose but I did it, and now my car works like new! I appreciate you sir! ❤
Great to hear!
My son's Malibu pump got bad and it was this part that got bad. It was interesting to discover the brake booster had dedicated vacuum pump! It was clear that having frequent oil changes to keep it from going bad! Thank God, it had not disintegrated yet.
Glad you got it sorted out without too big of an issue!
Great video brother, thank you!
My pleasure!!
I torque the like button immediately! Have a great week...........
Thanks for that! Appreciate it Scott!
I have one of these cars and I’m always fixing it got it off a used car lot 10/24/2022 and since I had it this car had really really been giving me hell
Yeah, they are needy cars especially if they are over 80,000 miles or so.
I’m surprised this isn’t a recall because mine went out last year.
It is a common failure, but they usually last way past warranty and recalls are usually only safety related or if something fails just out of warranty.
But if enough are failing they should.
@@JimmyMakingitwork They have a class action lawsuit going. mine just went bad. dumbass at inspection place failed me siting metal on metal brake pads in comments.
Got 93,000 on my 2015 malibu 2.5L . No issues at all ever actually however going to do a tuneup . Would you recommend just putting a new one on now and ve done with it . Thks! Great video
It’s a little pricey for preventative maintenance. If I was going to change it I’d use an AC Delco, GM part though.
@Jimmy, If it goes bad can't it damage the cam? Or anything else , I feel at 92k miles if it's gunna cause possibly more damage then makes sense to swap it, OR does it only break the ear off. Thx for your replys
This is the 3rd vacuum pump replacement what could be causing them to keep going bad
Be sure to check the cam where it drives the pump. The ears can sometimes be damaged and the pump won't be turning at the proper RPM.
It is also possible to get defective parts, it has been getting worse lately in that department, sadly.
Wished you had open the old pump and show the damage inside of it.
That disintegrate so usually pretty empty. I’ll open the next one! :)
So if I pull the line off the pump I should feel no vacuum being pulled? It sucks my finger down. I just replaced my pump about 2-3 months ago but now the brakes locked up again and I’m getting 0556 again but I can feel a vacuum still
If you have vacuum it might be a sensor or issue with the booster?
@@JimmyMakingitwork thanks turned out to be my brake booster it was just actin funny with the abs
Mine shattered, had to tear it apart to get all the pieces. Now I'm battling crankshaft and camshaft PS codes. 3 sensors replaced so far... still going, elbow deep currently.
Hopefully it didn’t cause a timing issue in the valvetrain. Also check the solenoids for contamination or damaged screens.
@Jimmy, Making it work thankfully it was big chunks and found them all. Screens were clean but replaced the sensors anyways and both camshaft position sensors, still have to replace the crank position sensor. Getting a p0014 and 17 code.
You gotta keep up on engine flushes and quality oil changes. That's the problem..this brake booster pump relies on clean oil.
@John Warren Is that what your local oil change sold you on? The engineering on this motor is a joke.
Just the video i was looking for, thanks for that man great video. I have a question about the vacuum pump, the gear on it that connects to the cam does it only go one way?
Yes, kind of like a distributor. So don’t force it together, when everything is lined up, fits snugly…then bolt it down.
@JimmyMakingitwork thank you, I just changed the vacuum pump, but now I hear a clicking noise and sounds faster when I accelerate. Could I have a bad pump?
So does removing the vacuum hose cause you to need to bleed your breaks?? Im about to replace mine. And all the shops are telling me this is a 4 hr job... what could possible make this job over 3 hrs?
You should only have to bleed air from the brakes if you open hydraulic lines or hoses.
The vacuum pump can be done in less time if you can work around the tight area it’s in. But the labor guide allows for removing more components that are “kind of” in the way.
Could the vacuum pump failure also throw the abs light?
It could if the car has a pressure sensor in the vacuum booster for the brakes.
I’m stuck at the oil change shop and my car won’t turn on the brakes were bad like this as I drove to the oil change place I think it’s the vacuum. Is there anything there I can do myself to start the car?
That sounds like a few different problems? I’d probably tow it in for service?
@@JimmyMakingitwork yeah it was electrical issues had to tow it. Thanks
I’m having the same issue.. mine wouldn’t start. I had to get it towed. How much was it to fix yours
@@keonsilmon4687 all together I needed a vacuum pump and another part as well it was around $500 for me smh
Blinky blink tpms light mean no worky work sensor
Edit: Hey brother Jimmy! Hope you had a great weekend!
Haha, yeah, I said it wrong... found the codes after it stayed on after airing up the tires. Thanks Will!
@@JimmyMakingitwork Hate when that happens. Good stuff tho. Thanks for the content man.keeo it going. I'll have a toolbox tour here soon working on moving into my first house with my wife at the moment but once that's done I'll figure out a day to do it
I found out working on my cousin’s car. If it’s blinking it means no works work 😭😭
Hi. Just replaced mine now the car won’t crank, start. Did we do something wrong?
IF you have a no crank condition after repairs look at the battery cables closely, power and grounds. If they check out I'd check for power and ground at the starter or see if there are any immobilizer codes set?
You figure it out?
I replaced mine, made sure bolts are tightened, but now its spraying engine oil everywhere. What did i do wrong?
It is possible the seal was damaged or pushed out of place?
@JimmyMakingitwork I just need to replace the seal, how do i get the seal out and replace it? New one arriving tomorrow morning from amazon
I recently tried replacing the pump but when i try to tighten it it backs out pulls down towrds the bottom bolt help please
Make sure the drive is lined up properly, it only fits correctly in one direction since it’s offset.
Mine is making a ratteling noise on cold starts, has been replaced same issue. Can it be delete?
These supply vacuum to the brakes and possibly other things. I suppose it could be bypassed for a different style vacuum pump, like an electric one. It would require replumbing, wiring and other modifications. Not sure if would be worth it.
Had the same happen to a 2018 equinox with a 1.5t, got the video on my channel
Also tpms flashing means there’s a problem with the system, like a dead sensor, doesn’t mean a tire is low, if the light initially comes on solid and stays solid, then one or more of the tires is low
You are correct.
I drive Chevy trucks for work, and they break a lot more than the Fords. But then nothing really goes bad on an f-650 all I'm saying. Love the content though.
Haha, yeah they all break. I just find the GM’s easier to work on, everyone has their preference and that’s all good!
Jimmy can you please explain how to check the seal for damage I change my pump n now the car is leaking big times need help pls
I would pull it back out, if the leak seems to be behind it, and see if the seals lip is torn or flipped. Might need to buy a replacement seal to see how it’s supposed to look if unfamiliar.
All you have to do is flush your oil change it fresh take off the brake vacuum pump clean it out put it back on and it works. Problem is the small screen gets plugged and it needs to circulate oil.
On this one the vacuum pump was destroyed and had locked up. They usually break the cam when this happens but this one was ok.
How much did this cost? I feel my 2017 Malibu has the same issue right now
I'm not sure of the exact price, but I believe parts and labor were under $500. Hope this helps.
Take it off after you flush your motor with oil engine cleaner. Change your oil. Take off brake booster pump. Clean it there's a small screen that get plugged put it on and boom. You're good. I ordered a new brake booster pump and it was supposed to be correct part but bolt pattern and bolts size were way off.
Did it fix the p2097 code because my 2016 chevy malibu limited has that code
Yes it did! :)
What will happen if you don’t get all the broken pieces out
It could damage the new parts. I would very carefully remove them
All if possible.
Hello.. I changed my wife's and now it's leaking oil.. what did I do wrong and how can I fix it?
Have to check the seal and see if it rolled going together or got damaged!
Is replacing the seal (between the cam and pump) as easy as just popping it out and replacing it?
Yes, very similar to a cam seal replacement.
What is the name of that seal thats by the crankshaft where the vacuum pump sits in?
There are a few seals back there, but the vacuum pump housing seal might be the one you mean? It sits in the back of the cylinder head.
The Rear crankshaft seal is a separate repair from the vacuum pump.
Answers phone: “we’ve been trying to reach you about your extended car warranty “
Rofl
How does it cost to do that work
I do not recall the exact price, but I'd guess between $600-800.
Why do they have a pump instead of getting vacuum from the engine
Turbocharged engines are often under manifold pressure, so there is no vacuum for power brakes and other accessories. So a pump, similar to how a Diesel engine provides vacuum, is how they provide it.
What causes this pump to go ?
Most of the time motor failure, but it’s also possible to have the pump itself wear out.
I just had to replace mine, in a 19 Malibu it was all in the cam shaft and I was just wondering what caused it to go. got the part swapped out and cam cleaned up and the car is running great but it’s a peculiar part to begin with in my opinion.
Changed the vacuum pump now car wont shift and turn on…any ideas?
If it was running before I'd recheck the work and look for a sensor or connector that was left off or broken?
Prime example why I dont even look at buying american now. Been a Ford guy my entire life, owned a Taurus Sable Explorer Escape and a Plymouth Breeze somewhere in-between, all went to shit. Fords all rotted away but the Escape with the 03 Duratec V6 proved exceptionally reliable engine wise, the rest of the body rotted away.
Now everything is plastic and what parts are metal are horribly designed. A cam shaft driven vac pump that gets oil starved by design, and hopefully wont shear the cam shaft pins when it fails, dropping them into the engine to cause so much more damage. My daughter had the nightmare Cruze turbo, all kinds of parts and work required, glad she traded it in for a Nissan.
Thanks Steve!
Next time take.the metal cowl and wiper assembly out of the way
Just might do that.
i have a 2016 chevrolet malibu, i had this same problem so i have the vacuum pump but the car still wont start. What should I do, please help me
Have to remove the valve/cam cover and see if the camshaft is damaged. There may be a clue in the codes, if they are related to cam crank timing.
how to know if it is the intake or exhaust camshaft that is damaged??? What about the sensor too? the car starts hard and the engine shakes. help me please
If you end up selling it let me know cause I'm looking for a body
Where you located at
Our shop is in central Florida, Kissimmee.
Illinois same problem and how much was that if you don’t mind telling me
What was Price
@@JimmyMakingitwork my car doing the same thing I may need to come to you I'm in the polkcounty area it's been stressful trying to figure out why my brakes lock up and when I put the car in drive it don't move brakes hard and stiff its to much
2013 malibu it was the break booster
They can also fail, vacuum pumps are more common, but I've also replaced quite a few brake boosters and brake vacuum sensors also.