This was almost identical to my 2007 Hummer H3. So H3 people can use this too. Wish I would have known this from the beginning. Excellent video by the way. Was a huge help!
Appreciate seeing you using normal tools. I am having an issue taking out the intake manifold, but now that you have shown all the bolts on it, I know I missed a few... I am ready to tackle this tomorrow. Thanks.
thank you for the video, it told me what i needed to know to tackle a 06 canyon and replace all 5 of the injectors. going back was easy, actually taking apart was not bad following your steps, it took me around 5 hours working by myself, with plenty of cool down breaks , you know when you drop a socket and it rolls ten feet away type deals. if i had stayed at it and controlled my anger i think i could easily have completed this job in under 4 hours, i would guess 3 hours. i had called a auto mechanic shop checking on prices it was 500 plus tax, i said no thanks ill do it myself. again thank you for this video, it saved me a lot of money. i truly feel like this is a 200 dollar mechanic job, its not that hard.i know they go by the hour, but come on, 500 to do this simple task. i am sorry but that is a rip off.
I bought a clean 2005 GMC Canyon for about a year & a half....since then, I find these Vid's to be entertaining and informative in application to my truck. Thanks. First You Tube location I get to for specific info. I'm A Fan !
I kid you not, I will be working on my brother-in-law's 5 cyl '05 Chev Colorado with a 3.5 that has the exact same codes & 400K miles on it. Can't find a video this exact. LOL Thank you.
So I had a p0305 which is a misfire on cylinder 5, I had already replaced all the spark plugs and coils so I went ahead and pulled out the intake manifold and replaced the all the injectors and put everything back together but now I have a misfire on cylinder one with a p0301 code. I am pulling everything back out again to check the oil ring on the injector of cylinder one. It seems tricky having to install all the 5 injectors at the same time. Hopefully that will be the issue. One thing I can comment on is to make sure when you remove the injectors that the o rings or plastic pieces on the ends of the old injectors do not remain in the holes. Thank you very much for taking the time to post a great howto video with every detail explained!!
Thanks for commenting, liking and subscribing. The coil on cylinder 1 is harder to install because of the wiring harness being in the way. Make sure the boot of that coil is properly on the spark plug. If not you will get a major misfire on cylinder 1. It's easier than changing out the fuel injector. Hopefully that's it. Good luck b0xjoint!
This is extremely helpful. I'm just turning 16 and I bought the same truck about 10 months ago to get it ready so I have something safe and reliable to drive. Iv been fixing most of everything on my truck so far and I drove into this project without looking up how to do anything. I figured out most of it but being able to find this video probably saved me hours of work. Thank you for the work u do here on youtube and I hope u continue to do it.
Hey There Redxbeast05, Yeah...you got the right attitude. You get better with every mechanical job you complete. That's a Nice Truck you have there by the way. Cheers!
Great video! Thanks so much for your detailed description and excellent comments on how to remove the intake manifold. I'm replacing the starter on my 2006 Chevy Colorado and no where on the internet could I find anything as helpful as your video. I can't thank you enough for making my life easier on a time consuming difficult job!
Nice video was very helpful. Thank you for not skipping steps because the little things are usually what people need to learn 👍. Not an easy job however if I can do it with my bad back anyone can. If you own one of these trucks taking that intake off is an important step to a few different repairs
3 mins and 4 bolts to pull that whole fender completely off lol, save yourself hours in working around it and not being able to get the angles on the bolts. Also easier to see what your doing 😊 great video by the way, keep it up brother!!
Does it help that much. Bro I just did the valve cover not knowing this and it was a 3 day job working after work. It was a nightmare and I stripped a intake manifold bolt too. Running good so far but that made me livid and the angles were terrible
I love your encouragement when you say you can do this yeah most of the time right some of them are stickier than others but UA-cam is amazing can actually see people do so many of the jobs!
Glad I watched this before popping the hood on my Colorado. Gonna get me a U-joint adapter n a pair of those nifty bent needle nose pliers. Thank you for taking the time to make this vid.
Good job. I’m sure someone has said that when the battery was disconnected it reset the code. If there was still an issue that you don’t feel with shaking it would take a cycle or two of the ECM running checks.
Yes, if the new fuel injectors did not correct the issue, the check engine light would appear and the code would come back after a few cycles to indicate what part is not performing to specs.
I have a 2008 Colorado except with the 3.7. Has pretty much the same issues, I have narrowed it down to P1174 code which usually indicates a clogged injector. This is causing the P0301( misfire cylinder 1) I think. Gonna tackle it this weekend. All new injectors, spark plugs, coil packs, and also replacing the intake manifold gasket. This a great video and an absolute time saver.
It's a big job Brady but You Got This! Perhaps some debris got pass your fuel filter? Did you recently change the fuel pump or fuel filter? Good Luck Cheers!
@@cantletherdiediy1050 I replaced fuel pump and purge valve solenoid in the summer and completely cleaned my gas tank out. I couldn’t find a fuel filter on it tho lol
@@bradyriley4694 Yeah, that's what I did. Replaced the fuel pump and introduced some debris into the fuel line which clogged a fuel injector. I replaced the fuel injectors and its been great ever since.
Did you ever fix the p1174 code? I changed my fuel level sensor a couple months ago and I believe I got debris in the tank. I have p1174 but no other codes. Ive changed o2 sensors and MAF so Im 99% sure its gonna the injectors.
Great video!!!! I have a 2012 Colorado, don't have to replace these yet, but when I do, Ill have an idea on how to do it. Im glad you replaced them all while you had it apart. I would have done the same thing
Man you've done a lot of work to your truck. That's a labor of love for sure. :) I hope I don't have to do this any time soon, but if I do, I'll be right back here to refresh my memory. Since I have a 2005 Colorado 5 cylinder, your videos are a perfect fit for what I'm looking for.
That's a big job Nick! Congrats on being able to replace your own injectors on the Colorado / Canyon. I'm glad the video helped. Thanks for the great comment. Cheers!
How in the name of all that is holy did you get that dipstick bracket loose in order to pull it up and back? That's the ONE thing missing from your video and I'm on my second day trying to get the lower bolt number 5 loose! On my 2006 Colorado 4 different looms are attached with that Christmas tree shaped clamp, and even though all of the bolts are gone, I can't stretch anything far enough ... I'm not a beginner mechanic by any means ... but for Pete's sake!!! Do I have to disconnect all the wire clamps? ALL the nuts are gone, but I'm about ready to take a saws-all and a chain to my tractor bucket to remove it ... all I ever wanted to do was change out my valve cover gaskets!!! I'm heading to the clinic now to get a transfusion to replace all the blood I lost from my hands and forearms (I put them in places I'm pretty sure they were never designed to fit) ...
It's been a while now. I can't remember exactly J Alfred Proofrock. I do remember feeling that you are going through...feeling like it's impossible at times.All I can tell you is I know I had to walk away and come back and tackle it when I was fresh and rested. It usually comes a lot easier when you are rested and you have the proper size extensions, sockets, etc. Good luck. Don't give up just take a break, rewatch the video, (maybe you missed something), and go back rested & calm. You Got This!
Near the end, when you were reconnecting the battety. You said " negative 1st then positive 2nd" ... bid no no.. Always, Positive 1st, & negative 2nd. You don't want the positive lead to ark, doing it the other way you mentioned. Same when jumping another car. Reason: Arking can fry your diodes in the alternator and could possibly fry a number of resistors, etc, etc.in tj.g e ECU or a sensor. The rest of your video was great.
Thanks for your comment Michael. I find my Body Control Modulator (BCM) reboots better when I reconnect negative first and then positive. Otherwise, I find my BCM only partially reboots snd i get the "lost of power to the driver side window and power locks" which is a common BCM glitch in the first generation Colorado / Canyons. Its a fair comment you make though Michael Cheers!
@@cantletherdiediy1050 I learned my lesson after 8 Alternators on a Nissan. My dad used to always tell me, "just click them together,make sure you got Spark". Ummmm no.. .LOL
I have an 05 with 390K miles in Buffalo... Owned it since new and used Mobile 1 from the beginning.... Mine just started missing badly... Changed coils, plugs and O2 sensors... Ran compression test they're all good... I'm thinking injector... Thanks for the vid....
Hey Oldskool, Any check engine codes? 1)Have you confirmed a clean throttle body? 2)Have you confirmed that cylinder 1 coil is installed properly? It can be a little difficult to get the boot of the coil over the plug properly due to the wiring harness is partially obstructing the insertion of the coil boot over the plug. If the plug is outside the boot, you would have a severe misfire. I'm just thinking of easy fixes you may want to double check before moving on to the more challenging fuel injector job. Good luck and thanks for watching and comment. Please like and subscribe Cheers!
@@cantletherdiediy1050 , Shes got a severe misfire that started off random and is now constant... The Truck has almost 400,000 Miles. I changed the Coils and plugs and moved the coils around... As far as #1, I cut the 2 clips holding the harness to get clear access... I siliconed the boots to make sure they slide on well.. Compression is even and I sprayed brake clean while it was running on every spot that could be leaking vacuum... No Change..... Ugh...
@@OldSkoolF That could be an injector that's clogged. It sounds like it was partially clogged and then got worse and now its completely clogged and not working causing the misfire. Were you working on the fuel pump /fuel filter or somehow got dirt/debris in the fuel line that worked its way to the fuel injectors? A clogged fuel injector may not trigger an engine fault only a defective injector would. You may want to change the fuel filter first. Perhaps debris is getting by the fuel filter and clogging one fuel injector. Well done with the almost 400,000 miles...I salute you. Cheers!
Thanks RG Thanks for the positive comments, liking and subscribing. Yeah, those bolts only have 1 or 2 angles of attack. It’s good info to know if you’re going to get that intake manifold off!
If you have a sport ls, with zq8 suspension, bolt 7 is not accessible because the shock tower is in the way. *update, the vaccume support bracket that he hoists away needs to be moved up further for the sport ls becauss of the shock tower height. The vaccum service port has a tab switch tab below the shrater valve, that can be popped off so the egr solenoid line can be moved over. Then, theres one white pushthrough clip connecting the fuel line holder (large white square clipped around the fuel lines) to the bracket, push the tab in and pull the fuel lines away from the bracket. There are 3 electrical wire harness clips on this bracket as well, 2 large toward the front and one small toward the rear. They all have to be unclipped. Now, finally, you can hoist the bracket up high enough to get to bolt 7 SOOOO much easier. Dont take the bracket out of the truck completely because its shaped awkward and its a tight fit. It only took one full day, but Ive finally got to every one of the bolts 123456789. Tomorrow theyre coming up and out. Ill update.
Just knocked this job out on my 2008 chevy colorodo 100% Thanks to you. The plate guarding the intake manifold bolts was a pain in the rear. Fixed my check engine light, but I'm still stalling/sputtering when I come to a hard stop and turn. Any ideas? I think I might need to clean the throttle body better.
Thanks Kendrick. Yeah, you may have a vacuum leak somewhere, or as you suggest, it could be a dirty throttle body. It's not throwing a code? Where you had a lot of parts off of the air intake system, it may be a vacuum leak (bad gasket) somewhere on the air intake side but it is just a guess. It could be many things unfortunately. Cylinder #1 coil pack could be not fully on. It can be difficult getting the boot over the spark plug on cylinder 1 due to a wiring harness being in the way. I've seen this happen. It would cause intermittent misfiring , sputtering, rough idle. I hope that helps Kendrick Congrats on the fuel injector job...that's a big job..well done!
I've eliminated--at great expense--just about all other potential causes of my long-time (but recently worsening) rough-idle and misfires. Looks like this will be my next project. I haven't done much beyond changing spark plugs--any advice (tools, etc.) in advance of attempting this?? TIA.
Thank you so much, at the end you said it’s a possibility to get access to the Intake bolts by removing the bracket that is mounted to the intake housing. Does that also eliminate removing the Alternator or do you still have to remove the alternator to access that difficult bolt. Also, did you first verify that the fuel pump pressure was good, no leak intake, plugs, wire, and coils was good before you pin pointed to the injector? How did you verify that the injector was the problem? That’s allot of work and hoping that there is someway to verify it first. Thanks!
My Dad just bought this exact truck. I have a general question. Should I remove the pump relay and crank the engine to remove any pressure currently in the rail line before disconnecting the battery for service?
Thanks for the VIDEO!! 🙏🏾 started at 10pm ended at 2am only got to the injectors and took out number one injector I had same code p0031 number 8 bolt was a b**** that took me a good hour and half lol thanks again for the video will complete tomorrow
I have a question about the braided mesh line that attaches to the fuel pressure regulator, mine has a hissing sound, but no code for a vacuum leak. Is there a video on how to replace that line? It looks factory pressed/crimped. Very rough idle. Replaced throttle body, mass airflow, map sensor, accelerator pedal position sensor, spark plugs, and VVT solenoid. I replaced all that for the 100,000 tune up, but it didn't fix the rough idle, and it idles low at 500 rpm. Has a lack of power until I get to 40 mph, then picks up fine. Edit: Oh lord I'm thinking I've got a bad or clogged fuel injector after watching this. Don't know if I can fo this one, I have Multiple Sclerosis, and it makes me weak. I've done all the other repairs, but this seems pretty involved.
You may have a vacuum leak? Its hard to diagnose form here without seeing it, hearing it, checking a few things. The problem may gets worse over time and throw you an engine code to help you figure it out.
the bolt at 45:59 you can see from underneath. its a pain to get to! i used a 6"extension, and then when i had the bolt on the socket, i used a wobble and another extension on the ratchet
Yeah, its easier to remove that bracket and attack it from underneath. Thanks for the comment Hotpockitrockit. It helps people to hear others being successful. Cheers!
@@hrsey71 I agree, I feel your pain but once it is done you feel great that you did something, that you know, most people could not. You're better than most. You're rocking this!
Hoping this video will help! I have an 04 canyon with the 3.5L i just bought it and is running really rough, revs okay in park but almost no power in gear. P0304 code replaced all the plugs and replaced 2 coils replaced pcv hose cleaned throttle body and new fuel filter. Drained old gas got new fuel and some additives to help out code still comes up as misfire in cylinder 4 my neighbor is going to help with a compression test this week do you think it's an injector issue? Thanks for any tips and advice!
Thanks for the question Michael. That's a nice truck. It is really difficult to diagnose your issue without seeing, listening, running some tests on it. This is only a guess. P0304 indicates that it is a misfire in cylinder 4 which would cause the rough idle. Your compression test would indicate whether it is an internal engine problem (rings, valves). I would think that you would have blue smoke out the exhaust and you didn't mention that. Check that your PCV oriface in the valve cover is not blocked. (My video How to remove valve cover) or You may have a blocked fuel injector. (cylinder 4). If you or a previous owner removed the fuel filter or fuel pump and introduced debris to the fuel line, it may have made its way to the fuel injector causing a blockage. This would not trigger a fuel injector error code because the fuel injector is opening closing properly but the port may be partially blocked. You may want to rule out the fuel pump failing first by checking the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. There is a valve stem on the fuel rail where you can attach a fuel pressure gage. Those are a few ideas but it is so difficult to know for sure without being there. I hope that helps Michael
Very difficult job /: I couldn’t get bolt 7 out (behind the dipstick) and had to put everything back together. I had all the same tools. Any recommendations?
@ 48:02 where you put in yellow font about removing the bolts and bracket. I believe there are 2 holding the bracket correct. Remove them completely?!?!?! And access another hole behind that bracket??? Thats where im stuck at. I have all loose. But it still feels like something is connected about right there exactly!!!!! So please help. Do i need to move the oil dip stick line and the other two connected to it somewhere? And a 10 mm bolt is hiding behind it somewhere??? Because i got the far far right one way up there.
I had some fuel come out of the 5th fuel injector install that sort of worried me. It didn’t come out of the end that goes inside the cylinder, it was near the other end where you have to push it into the rail hole. Some Fuel came out after I put the clip on. After inspection the clips were positioned correctly but this last injector worries me because I have not put my truck back together and I’m not sure if I did a faulty install but I double checked every injector and found no obvious signs of misalignment or bad installation.
You need to investigate what is going on. A few items come to mind: Is it a bad fuel injector? If you switch the fuel injector with # 4 would the leak go to #4 and thereby confirm a bad fuel injector? Is the leaking fuel injector have a damaged o ring? Is the fuel rail damaged? Is there dirt on the injector which prevents a good seal? I wish I could take a look. It's hard to diagnose without seeing it in person. I had a new fuel injector which was defective ad caused a misfire so it is possible to have a defective fuel injector even though it is new. I hope that helps.
Hello friend, Very nice informative video. I have a 2010 GMC Canyon 3.7L 5Cy. I recently changed my spark plugs on her 1 week ago, and the truck ran so good the rest of the week until the weekend in the morning I started it up and started very faulty, motor chopping and jumping misfiring, exhaust chops as well, I checked the spark plugs to see if they weren't dirty, 1 was kind of dirty so cleaned it, I did a Spark test on all 5 Coils, they all sparked, I put it all back together and still does the same thing also while driving very sloppy chop engine having trouble accelerating and stuttering. I have no Check Engine Light or any other what so ever, to I just don't know what test to conduct to see if my Injectors are bad to change them using this great video. Thanks if you give some advice I would really appreciate it.
Hello, I’m on last top bolt #6 to remove intake manifold. Metal bracket is a BITCH! Cannot get behind bracket. You mentioned you pull outward and up. But with all the push mounted zip ties holding wires, plus fuel lines, moves only 1/2”, not enough to get to bolt without bending fuel lines. Did you have to bend fuel lines?? I’m thinking I’ll have to cut all ties connected to get more movement. Did you disconnect the grey clamp that clamp fuel lines to bracket? Any other tips? Thx! Great video by the way! 👍👍
Hey There Adamcnow, Yeah it is difficult. You are doing great. I did not cut any lines but I did unclip some grey wire holding clips. I found it was easier attacking that bolt from underneath, through the wheel well. If you get stuck you may have to walk away, take a break, and come back to it with a fresh determination to get it done. I had to do that once or twice. You got this Adamcnow! We all struggle with at least one bolt that just seems impossible but don't give up. Is the bracket completely unattached? ( have you removed all of the bracket bolts?) I believe there is 4 and it is much easier when that bracket is removed and only held in place by the lines. I wish I was there to help.
At this point in the video ua-cam.com/video/kWOFRZaFvYM/v-deo.html I mention how I removed the dipstick bracket bolt off camera. That may be the one you did not remove. You really need to free up that bracket to gain access to bolt # 6. Attack it from the wheel well.
CantLetHerDieDIY ... Yay! Finally got the intake manifold off without cutting any of the push mount zip ties holding all the wire looms & w/o removing dip stick. It was a bitch... tugging and pulling w/o breaking it. The fuel injector electrical wires was getting caught in rear, with a long screw I was able push back wires while pulling out manifold! Man, what a PAIN IN THE ASS! Thx for the reply & encouragement! Now I can replace all injectors, have one bad, but since I’m here I’m replace all of them. I definitely do not want to go through this again. Mine is a 08 Hummer H3 3.7 (same as yours) Keeping her alive & humming! 😁👍 Thx again!!! Hope changing injectors goes a lot smoother! 😉
we just replaced spark plugs on my sons 05 canyon. used the 41-103 plugs. afterward the engine ran terribly throwing random cylinder misfire codes and low rpm at idle code. ran very rough. I cannot figure out why this would happen it had the original plugs in after 140k miles. I put the original plugs back in, and now Im showing misfire cylinder 1 but it runs much better. I ordered new coil packs but Im struggling to understand why this would've happened.
Cylinder 1 is really easy to install the coil pack incorrectly because a wiring harness is in the way . Double check that the spark plug is actually inside the boot of the coil pack. Often the coil pack gets install with the plug outside of the boot causing a serious misfire in cylinder 1. I hope this helps.
So dude., why the pcv or valve cover can not be clean with out take it off? "I saw your video and when you have the cover out Just put air and maybe can use carburador cleaner. Thank you
Could you have a bad injector, plug, coil pack? Is the plug firmly, correctly, installed in the boot of the coil pack? Cylinder one is kind of awkward to get the coil pack on properly. The wiring harness is in the way. Often people think it is on correctly, but when they check it they find the spark plug is outside of the boot on the coil pack.
If your 08 Colorado is a 5 cylinder then yes...if it is a 4 or a 6 cylinder then it may be slightly different. It should have the 1 bolt, 2 bolt ,1 bolt pattern every two inches like mine
Hi Alejandro, You have not given me much to go on. Do you have periodic rough idle as well? There are many different causes you need to start ruling them out. It could be a gasoline quality issue (debris in the fuel line if you recently changed the fuel pump or fuel filter) However, the easier and more common solution would simply be an intermittently failing coil pack(s)or spark plug(s). I would change the spark plugs first. If that doesn't help, change the coil packs. Once one coil begins to fail, I find they will all fail so it is good to change them all if you can. I have a video that may help you. I hope that helps! ua-cam.com/video/IallmAlkEck/v-deo.html
@@cantletherdiediy1050 thanks. However I have no symptoms whatsoever haha. This is a tough one. I’ve checked for vacuum leaks nothing. No audible misfire at all. Runs great. I will check the spark plugs could be I purchased a bad batch. I will do that this weekend thanks for the tips. Have a happy new year! 🎊
Absolutely, the cost of labour for working on our trucks is through the roof. You can save a lot by doing the work yourself and keeping your money in your pocket. Hopefully, some of my videos can save you some $. Cheers James!
![[HOW TO] Install a Ported Intake Manifold & Replace Spark Plugs on 2017-2022 Colorado/Canyon LGZ V6](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9uUB9O86pVY/mqdefault.jpg)
This was almost identical to my 2007 Hummer H3. So H3 people can use this too. Wish I would have known this from the beginning. Excellent video by the way. Was a huge help!
Appreciate seeing you using normal tools. I am having an issue taking out the intake manifold, but now that you have shown all the bolts on it, I know I missed a few... I am ready to tackle this tomorrow. Thanks.
thank you for the video, it told me what i needed to know to tackle a 06 canyon and replace all 5 of the injectors. going back was easy, actually taking apart was not bad following your steps, it took me around 5 hours working by myself, with plenty of cool down breaks , you know when you drop a socket and it rolls ten feet away type deals. if i had stayed at it and controlled my anger i think i could easily have completed this job in under 4 hours, i would guess 3 hours. i had called a auto mechanic shop checking on prices it was 500 plus tax, i said no thanks ill do it myself. again thank you for this video, it saved me a lot of money. i truly feel like this is a 200 dollar mechanic job, its not that hard.i know they go by the hour, but come on, 500 to do this simple task. i am sorry but that is a rip off.
I bought a clean 2005 GMC Canyon for about a year & a half....since then, I find these Vid's to be entertaining and informative in application to my truck. Thanks. First You Tube location I get to for specific info. I'm A Fan !
Thanks for letting us know. A 2005 GMC Canyon... you have a Nice Truck there.
I kid you not, I will be working on my brother-in-law's 5 cyl '05 Chev Colorado with a 3.5 that has the exact same codes & 400K miles on it. Can't find a video this exact. LOL Thank you.
That's a Nice Truck. 400k miles...impressive. Keep up the good work JB
So I had a p0305 which is a misfire on cylinder 5, I had already replaced all the spark plugs and coils so I went ahead and pulled out the intake manifold and replaced the all the injectors and put everything back together but now I have a misfire on cylinder one with a p0301 code. I am pulling everything back out again to check the oil ring on the injector of cylinder one. It seems tricky having to install all the 5 injectors at the same time. Hopefully that will be the issue. One thing I can comment on is to make sure when you remove the injectors that the o rings or plastic pieces on the ends of the old injectors do not remain in the holes. Thank you very much for taking the time to post a great howto video with every detail explained!!
Thanks for commenting, liking and subscribing.
The coil on cylinder 1 is harder to install because of the wiring harness being in the way. Make sure the boot of that coil is properly on the spark plug. If not you will get a major misfire on cylinder 1.
It's easier than changing out the fuel injector. Hopefully that's it. Good luck b0xjoint!
This is extremely helpful. I'm just turning 16 and I bought the same truck about 10 months ago to get it ready so I have something safe and reliable to drive. Iv been fixing most of everything on my truck so far and I drove into this project without looking up how to do anything. I figured out most of it but being able to find this video probably saved me hours of work. Thank you for the work u do here on youtube and I hope u continue to do it.
Hey There Redxbeast05, Yeah...you got the right attitude. You get better with every mechanical job you complete. That's a Nice Truck you have there by the way.
Cheers!
Great video! Thanks so much for your detailed description and excellent comments on how to remove the intake manifold. I'm replacing the starter on my 2006 Chevy Colorado and no where on the internet could I find anything as helpful as your video. I can't thank you enough for making my life easier on a time consuming difficult job!
Nice video was very helpful. Thank you for not skipping steps because the little things are usually what people need to learn 👍. Not an easy job however if I can do it with my bad back anyone can. If you own one of these trucks taking that intake off is an important step to a few different repairs
I'm glad you liked it. I hope it helped you get that intake manifold off.
Cheers!
3 mins and 4 bolts to pull that whole fender completely off lol, save yourself hours in working around it and not being able to get the angles on the bolts. Also easier to see what your doing 😊 great video by the way, keep it up brother!!
Does it help that much. Bro I just did the valve cover not knowing this and it was a 3 day job working after work. It was a nightmare and I stripped a intake manifold bolt too. Running good so far but that made me livid and the angles were terrible
Your patience in filming this is highly appreciated
bigtreesfall Thanks, I hope it helps you out
I love your encouragement when you say you can do this yeah most of the time right some of them are stickier than others but UA-cam is amazing can actually see people do so many of the jobs!
You're right Joe. It is nice to see it done first.
Thanks you. This is so much easier on a 2.9 engine only 7 screws. This video helped me a lot
I'm glad it helped. Cheers!
Thank you very much, your video was very helpful to me because I couldn't find the screws until you counted them, which were 9.
THANK FOR THIS VIDEO I SAVE A LOT OF MONEY I JUST REPLACE ALL MY FUEL INJECTOR AND GASKE INTAKE MANIFOLD 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Congratulations Tio. That's a Big Job on the Colorado, Canyon, Isuzu or Hummer? You're better than most! Cheers!
@@cantletherdiediy1050 YOU ARE THE BEST FOR MADE THE VIDEO ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
@@tionayib5426 Thanks Tio!
Glad I watched this before popping the hood on my Colorado. Gonna get me a U-joint adapter n a pair of those nifty bent needle nose pliers. Thank you for taking the time to make this vid.
Thanks Todd, I use those bent snap ring pliers all the time. I put a link in the description to where amazon sells them . They are fun to use. Cheers!
Great job, exactly what I need, getting ready to tackle this job with my son this weekend. Keep up the great work. Thank you.
Father-son time fixing the Colorado. Awesome.
Good luck and Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for this video!! I don’t think I could have done it without it , you are a life saver!
Good job. I’m sure someone has said that when the battery was disconnected it reset the code. If there was still an issue that you don’t feel with shaking it would take a cycle or two of the ECM running checks.
Yes, if the new fuel injectors did not correct the issue, the check engine light would appear and the code would come back after a few cycles to indicate what part is not performing to specs.
I have a 2008 Colorado except with the 3.7. Has pretty much the same issues, I have narrowed it down to P1174 code which usually indicates a clogged injector. This is causing the P0301( misfire cylinder 1) I think. Gonna tackle it this weekend. All new injectors, spark plugs, coil packs, and also replacing the intake manifold gasket. This a great video and an absolute time saver.
It's a big job Brady but You Got This! Perhaps some debris got pass your fuel filter? Did you recently change the fuel pump or fuel filter?
Good Luck
Cheers!
@@cantletherdiediy1050
I replaced fuel pump and purge valve solenoid in the summer and completely cleaned my gas tank out. I couldn’t find a fuel filter on it tho lol
@@bradyriley4694 Yeah, that's what I did. Replaced the fuel pump and introduced some debris into the fuel line which clogged a fuel injector. I replaced the fuel injectors and its been great ever since.
Did you ever fix the p1174 code? I changed my fuel level sensor a couple months ago and I believe I got debris in the tank. I have p1174 but no other codes. Ive changed o2 sensors and MAF so Im 99% sure its gonna the injectors.
@@cantletherdiediy1050 did you get p1174 too?
Great video!!!! I have a 2012 Colorado, don't have to replace these yet, but when I do, Ill have an idea on how to do it. Im glad you replaced them all while you had it apart. I would have done the same thing
Thanks Jeff! I appreciate the great comment. Nice truck by the way. Cheers!
Man you've done a lot of work to your truck. That's a labor of love for sure. :)
I hope I don't have to do this any time soon, but if I do, I'll be right back here to refresh my memory. Since I have a 2005 Colorado 5 cylinder, your videos are a perfect fit for what I'm looking for.
Nice Truck Chip!
Love this guy , you need advice on replacing upper n lower control arms gimme a buzz !
This video helped me immensely with the injectors on my 2009 Colorado, thanks man!
That's a big job Nick! Congrats on being able to replace your own injectors on the Colorado / Canyon. I'm glad the video helped. Thanks for the great comment. Cheers!
How in the name of all that is holy did you get that dipstick bracket loose in order to pull it up and back? That's the ONE thing missing from your video and I'm on my second day trying to get the lower bolt number 5 loose! On my 2006 Colorado 4 different looms are attached with that Christmas tree shaped clamp, and even though all of the bolts are gone, I can't stretch anything far enough ... I'm not a beginner mechanic by any means ... but for Pete's sake!!! Do I have to disconnect all the wire clamps? ALL the nuts are gone, but I'm about ready to take a saws-all and a chain to my tractor bucket to remove it ... all I ever wanted to do was change out my valve cover gaskets!!! I'm heading to the clinic now to get a transfusion to replace all the blood I lost from my hands and forearms (I put them in places I'm pretty sure they were never designed to fit) ...
It's been a while now. I can't remember exactly J Alfred Proofrock. I do remember feeling that you are going through...feeling like it's impossible at times.All I can tell you is I know I had to walk away and come back and tackle it when I was fresh and rested. It usually comes a lot easier when you are rested and you have the proper size extensions, sockets, etc. Good luck. Don't give up just take a break, rewatch the video, (maybe you missed something), and go back rested & calm. You Got This!
Near the end, when you were reconnecting the battety. You said " negative 1st then positive 2nd" ... bid no no..
Always, Positive 1st, & negative 2nd. You don't want the positive lead to ark, doing it the other way you mentioned. Same when jumping another car. Reason: Arking can fry your diodes in the alternator and could possibly fry a number of resistors, etc, etc.in tj.g e ECU or a sensor. The rest of your video was great.
Thanks for your comment Michael. I find my Body Control Modulator (BCM) reboots better when I reconnect negative first and then positive. Otherwise, I find my BCM only partially reboots snd i get the "lost of power to the driver side window and power locks" which is a common BCM glitch in the first generation Colorado / Canyons. Its a fair comment you make though Michael
Cheers!
@@cantletherdiediy1050 I learned my lesson after 8 Alternators on a Nissan. My dad used to always tell me, "just click them together,make sure you got Spark". Ummmm no..
.LOL
This was a huge help. Big Thank You Sir. From North Georgia.
North Georgia...nice. I'm glad the video helped. Coming to you from Nova Scotia, Canada my friend. Cheers!
I have an 05 with 390K miles in Buffalo... Owned it since new and used Mobile 1 from the beginning.... Mine just started missing badly... Changed coils, plugs and O2 sensors... Ran compression test they're all good... I'm thinking injector... Thanks for the vid....
Hey Oldskool,
Any check engine codes?
1)Have you confirmed a clean throttle body?
2)Have you confirmed that cylinder 1 coil is installed properly? It can be a little difficult to get the boot of the coil over the plug properly due to the wiring harness is partially obstructing the insertion of the coil boot over the plug. If the plug is outside the boot, you would have a severe misfire.
I'm just thinking of easy fixes you may want to double check before moving on to the more challenging fuel injector job.
Good luck and thanks for watching and comment. Please like and subscribe
Cheers!
@@cantletherdiediy1050 , Shes got a severe misfire that started off random and is now constant... The Truck has almost 400,000 Miles. I changed the Coils and plugs and moved the coils around... As far as #1, I cut the 2 clips holding the harness to get clear access... I siliconed the boots to make sure they slide on well.. Compression is even and I sprayed brake clean while it was running on every spot that could be leaking vacuum... No Change..... Ugh...
@@OldSkoolF That could be an injector that's clogged. It sounds like it was partially clogged and then got worse and now its completely clogged and not working causing the misfire. Were you working on the fuel pump /fuel filter or somehow got dirt/debris in the fuel line that worked its way to the fuel injectors? A clogged fuel injector may not trigger an engine fault only a defective injector would. You may want to change the fuel filter first. Perhaps debris is getting by the fuel filter and clogging one fuel injector.
Well done with the almost 400,000 miles...I salute you.
Cheers!
Excellent video and the camera angles were perfect when explaining keep up the good work 👍🏽👍🏽.
Thanks RG
Thanks for the positive comments, liking and subscribing. Yeah, those bolts only have 1 or 2 angles of attack. It’s good info to know if you’re going to get that intake manifold off!
If you have a sport ls, with zq8 suspension, bolt 7 is not accessible because the shock tower is in the way. *update, the vaccume support bracket that he hoists away needs to be moved up further for the sport ls becauss of the shock tower height. The vaccum service port has a tab switch tab below the shrater valve, that can be popped off so the egr solenoid line can be moved over. Then, theres one white pushthrough clip connecting the fuel line holder (large white square clipped around the fuel lines) to the bracket, push the tab in and pull the fuel lines away from the bracket. There are 3 electrical wire harness clips on this bracket as well, 2 large toward the front and one small toward the rear. They all have to be unclipped. Now, finally, you can hoist the bracket up high enough to get to bolt 7 SOOOO much easier. Dont take the bracket out of the truck completely because its shaped awkward and its a tight fit. It only took one full day, but Ive finally got to every one of the bolts 123456789. Tomorrow theyre coming up and out. Ill update.
Just knocked this job out on my 2008 chevy colorodo 100% Thanks to you. The plate guarding the intake manifold bolts was a pain in the rear. Fixed my check engine light, but I'm still stalling/sputtering when I come to a hard stop and turn. Any ideas? I think I might need to clean the throttle body better.
Thanks Kendrick. Yeah, you may have a vacuum leak somewhere, or as you suggest, it could be a dirty throttle body. It's not throwing a code? Where you had a lot of parts off of the air intake system, it may be a vacuum leak (bad gasket) somewhere on the air intake side but it is just a guess. It could be many things unfortunately. Cylinder #1 coil pack could be not fully on. It can be difficult getting the boot over the spark plug on cylinder 1 due to a wiring harness being in the way. I've seen this happen. It would cause intermittent misfiring , sputtering, rough idle. I hope that helps Kendrick
Congrats on the fuel injector job...that's a big job..well done!
Will this work for a p305 i changed the spark plug and coil hoping its the fuel injector
I've eliminated--at great expense--just about all other potential causes of my long-time (but recently worsening) rough-idle and misfires. Looks like this will be my next project. I haven't done much beyond changing spark plugs--any advice (tools, etc.) in advance of attempting this?? TIA.
Thank you so much, at the end you said it’s a possibility to get access to the Intake bolts by removing the bracket that is mounted to the intake housing. Does that also eliminate removing the Alternator or do you still have to remove the alternator to access that difficult bolt. Also, did you first verify that the fuel pump pressure was good, no leak intake, plugs, wire, and coils was good before you pin pointed to the injector? How did you verify that the injector was the problem? That’s allot of work and hoping that there is someway to verify it first. Thanks!
Yes, i had good fuel pressure at the fuel rail and had already changed plugs & coils. It had to be the fuel injector
This was a great walk-through. Thank you so much! Saved me a ton of cash!
Great Robert. I'm glad you liked it. Don't forget to like and subscribe. Thanks Robert
Thanks for sharing your video, it was very educational and I really learn alot...Great job.
Thanks for the positive comment Ancencio Max, I'm glad my video was able to help... Keep on Truck'n!
My Dad just bought this exact truck. I have a general question. Should I remove the pump relay and crank the engine to remove any pressure currently in the rail line before disconnecting the battery for service?
Yes...to remove as much pressure in the fuel rail as possible
Thanks for the VIDEO!! 🙏🏾 started at 10pm ended at 2am only got to the injectors and took out number one injector I had same code p0031 number 8 bolt was a b**** that took me a good hour and half lol thanks again for the video will complete tomorrow
Yeah, number eight is a bugger. Don't give up. You can get it. It'll be easier after a good sleep! Hang in there Pal
I have a question about the braided mesh line that attaches to the fuel pressure regulator, mine has a hissing sound, but no code for a vacuum leak. Is there a video on how to replace that line? It looks factory pressed/crimped. Very rough idle. Replaced throttle body, mass airflow, map sensor, accelerator pedal position sensor, spark plugs, and VVT solenoid. I replaced all that for the 100,000 tune up, but it didn't fix the rough idle, and it idles low at 500 rpm. Has a lack of power until I get to 40 mph, then picks up fine. Edit: Oh lord I'm thinking I've got a bad or clogged fuel injector after watching this. Don't know if I can fo this one, I have Multiple Sclerosis, and it makes me weak. I've done all the other repairs, but this seems pretty involved.
No codes, just rough idle?
You may have a vacuum leak? Its hard to diagnose form here without seeing it, hearing it, checking a few things. The problem may gets worse over time and throw you an engine code to help you figure it out.
Perfect, answered every question. Keep it up!
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. I hoped it helped.
Cheers!
the bolt at 45:59 you can see from underneath. its a pain to get to! i used a 6"extension, and then when i had the bolt on the socket, i used a wobble and another extension on the ratchet
Yeah, its easier to remove that bracket and attack it from underneath. Thanks for the comment Hotpockitrockit. It helps people to hear others being successful. Cheers!
@@cantletherdiediy1050 I just did that haha. Now I can get at that last bolt. What a pain! All to replace a valve cover gasket
@@hrsey71 I agree, I feel your pain but once it is done you feel great that you did something, that you know, most people could not. You're better than most. You're rocking this!
@@cantletherdiediy1050 man, there is a ton of sludge under the valve cover! is that normal?
Hoping this video will help! I have an
04 canyon with the 3.5L i just bought it and is running really rough, revs okay in park but almost no power in gear. P0304 code replaced all the plugs and replaced 2 coils replaced pcv hose cleaned throttle body and new fuel filter. Drained old gas got new fuel and some additives to help out code still comes up as misfire in cylinder 4 my neighbor is going to help with a compression test this week do you think it's an injector issue? Thanks for any tips and advice!
Thanks for the question Michael. That's a nice truck. It is really difficult to diagnose your issue without seeing, listening, running some tests on it. This is only a guess. P0304 indicates that it is a misfire in cylinder 4 which would cause the rough idle. Your compression test would indicate whether it is an internal engine problem (rings, valves). I would think that you would have blue smoke out the exhaust and you didn't mention that. Check that your PCV oriface in the valve cover is not blocked. (My video How to remove valve cover) or You may have a blocked fuel injector. (cylinder 4). If you or a previous owner removed the fuel filter or fuel pump and introduced debris to the fuel line, it may have made its way to the fuel injector causing a blockage. This would not trigger a fuel injector error code because the fuel injector is opening closing properly but the port may be partially blocked. You may want to rule out the fuel pump failing first by checking the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. There is a valve stem on the fuel rail where you can attach a fuel pressure gage. Those are a few ideas but it is so difficult to know for sure without being there. I hope that helps Michael
Very difficult job /: I couldn’t get bolt 7 out (behind the dipstick) and had to put everything back together. I had all the same tools. Any recommendations?
Thankyou Sir , great video and very useful.
Thanks Vincent. I'm glad I could help you out. Keep on Truck'n!
@ 48:02 where you put in yellow font about removing the bolts and bracket. I believe there are 2 holding the bracket correct. Remove them completely?!?!?! And access another hole behind that bracket??? Thats where im stuck at. I have all loose. But it still feels like something is connected about right there exactly!!!!! So please help. Do i need to move the oil dip stick line and the other two connected to it somewhere? And a 10 mm bolt is hiding behind it somewhere??? Because i got the far far right one way up there.
I had some fuel come out of the 5th fuel injector install that sort of worried me. It didn’t come out of the end that goes inside the cylinder, it was near the other end where you have to push it into the rail hole. Some Fuel came out after I put the clip on. After inspection the clips were positioned correctly but this last injector worries me because I have not put my truck back together and I’m not sure if I did a faulty install but I double checked every injector and found no obvious signs of misalignment or bad installation.
You need to investigate what is going on. A few items come to mind: Is it a bad fuel injector? If you switch the fuel injector with # 4 would the leak go to #4 and thereby confirm a bad fuel injector? Is the leaking fuel injector have a damaged o ring? Is the fuel rail damaged? Is there dirt on the injector which prevents a good seal? I wish I could take a look. It's hard to diagnose without seeing it in person. I had a new fuel injector which was defective ad caused a misfire so it is possible to have a defective fuel injector even though it is new. I hope that helps.
@@cantletherdiediy1050 thanks for the tips. I will follow your advice and check it again. It should not leak fuel like the other 4 injectors.
Hello friend, Very nice informative video. I have a 2010 GMC Canyon 3.7L 5Cy. I recently changed my spark plugs on her 1 week ago, and the truck ran so good the rest of the week until the weekend in the morning I started it up and started very faulty, motor chopping and jumping misfiring, exhaust chops as well, I checked the spark plugs to see if they weren't dirty, 1 was kind of dirty so cleaned it, I did a Spark test on all 5 Coils, they all sparked, I put it all back together and still does the same thing also while driving very sloppy chop engine having trouble accelerating and stuttering. I have no Check Engine Light or any other what so ever, to I just don't know what test to conduct to see if my Injectors are bad to change them using this great video. Thanks if you give some advice I would really appreciate it.
You must have misfire codes? No check engine light?
@@cantletherdiediy1050 I have nothing no codes at all
Nice video, very helpful! thanks a lot!
You're Welcome...I hope it helps
Hello, I’m on last top bolt #6 to remove intake manifold. Metal bracket is a BITCH! Cannot get behind bracket. You mentioned you pull outward and up. But with all the push mounted zip ties holding wires, plus fuel lines, moves only 1/2”, not enough to get to bolt without bending fuel lines. Did you have to bend fuel lines?? I’m thinking I’ll have to cut all ties connected to get more movement. Did you disconnect the grey clamp that clamp fuel lines to bracket? Any other tips? Thx! Great video by the way! 👍👍
Hey There Adamcnow, Yeah it is difficult. You are doing great. I did not cut any lines but I did unclip some grey wire holding clips. I found it was easier attacking that bolt from underneath, through the wheel well. If you get stuck you may have to walk away, take a break, and come back to it with a fresh determination to get it done. I had to do that once or twice. You got this Adamcnow! We all struggle with at least one bolt that just seems impossible but don't give up. Is the bracket completely unattached? ( have you removed all of the bracket bolts?) I believe there is 4 and it is much easier when that bracket is removed and only held in place by the lines. I wish I was there to help.
At this point in the video ua-cam.com/video/kWOFRZaFvYM/v-deo.html I mention how I removed the dipstick bracket bolt off camera. That may be the one you did not remove. You really need to free up that bracket to gain access to bolt # 6. Attack it from the wheel well.
CantLetHerDieDIY ... Yay! Finally got the intake manifold off without cutting any of the push mount zip ties holding all the wire looms & w/o removing dip stick. It was a bitch... tugging and pulling w/o breaking it. The fuel injector electrical wires was getting caught in rear, with a long screw I was able push back wires while pulling out manifold! Man, what a PAIN IN THE ASS! Thx for the reply & encouragement! Now I can replace all injectors, have one bad, but since I’m here I’m replace all of them. I definitely do not want to go through this again. Mine is a 08 Hummer H3 3.7 (same as yours) Keeping her alive & humming! 😁👍 Thx again!!! Hope changing injectors goes a lot smoother! 😉
@@adamcnow You did it. You rock!
we just replaced spark plugs on my sons 05 canyon. used the 41-103 plugs. afterward the engine ran terribly throwing random cylinder misfire codes and low rpm at idle code. ran very rough. I cannot figure out why this would happen it had the original plugs in after 140k miles. I put the original plugs back in, and now Im showing misfire cylinder 1 but it runs much better. I ordered new coil packs but Im struggling to understand why this would've happened.
Cylinder 1 is really easy to install the coil pack incorrectly because a wiring harness is in the way . Double check that the spark plug is actually inside the boot of the coil pack. Often the coil pack gets install with the plug outside of the boot causing a serious misfire in cylinder 1. I hope this helps.
I'm getting both p0131 and p0171 codes on my 3.7l what is most common causes
So dude., why the pcv or valve cover can not be clean with out take it off? "I saw your video and when you have the cover out Just put air and maybe can use carburador cleaner. Thank you
Thanks 😊 great 😊 video
Thanks for the information
So what if it doesn't get rid of those codes? Mine didn't work and I am still misfiring in cylinder 1?
Could you have a bad injector, plug, coil pack? Is the plug firmly, correctly, installed in the boot of the coil pack? Cylinder one is kind of awkward to get the coil pack on properly. The wiring harness is in the way. Often people think it is on correctly, but when they check it they find the spark plug is outside of the boot on the coil pack.
I love your video man!
Wow very helpful and funny!
Thanks...there's a couple of chuckles in there
I'm having tough time finding the exact torque specs for the air intake manifold bolts. Anybody?
How did you get the bolt in the middle? I'm having a hard time getting the one slotted in! My socket isn't fitting.
It's easier to get to it if you attack from the bottom...through the wheel well.
Thanks for shear
HELP I changed the injector following this video go to crank the truck wont crank and the injector 10a fuse blows as soon as the key cuts on.
My truck is a 08 4 cylinder
Great job
Thanks Tourettes 17. I'm glad you like it. Cheers!
How long did it take to get the intake manifold out?
It depends on how skilled you are. I would plan for 2 days but some people could do it in a day.
I’m fairly capable. Watching your video, I feel like I could swap out the intake manifold in a couple hours. That’s if everything goes well….lol
Working on this right now on my 08 Colorado. Does manifold cover have same amount of bolts as the one your working on? Can’t seem to find all bolts
If your 08 Colorado is a 5 cylinder then yes...if it is a 4 or a 6 cylinder then it may be slightly different. It should have the 1 bolt, 2 bolt ,1 bolt pattern every two inches like mine
@@cantletherdiediy1050 I’ve located 5! Ugh, tomorrow is another day
@@virginiagonzalez2591 Don't Give up Virginia, You Got This!
@@cantletherdiediy1050 thank you!
@@cantletherdiediy1050 I AM STUCK! Can’t seem to find all bolts to remove manifold cover. It’s loose on one side only. Help!
Any tips for a P0300 code?
Hi Alejandro,
You have not given me much to go on.
Do you have periodic rough idle as well? There are many different causes you need to start ruling them out. It could be a gasoline quality issue (debris in the fuel line if you recently changed the fuel pump or fuel filter) However, the easier and more common solution would simply be an intermittently failing coil pack(s)or spark plug(s). I would change the spark plugs first. If that doesn't help, change the coil packs. Once one coil begins to fail, I find they will all fail so it is good to change them all if you can. I have a video that may help you. I hope that helps! ua-cam.com/video/IallmAlkEck/v-deo.html
@@cantletherdiediy1050 thanks. However I have no symptoms whatsoever haha. This is a tough one. I’ve checked for vacuum leaks nothing. No audible misfire at all. Runs great. I will check the spark plugs could be I purchased a bad batch. I will do that this weekend thanks for the tips. Have a happy new year! 🎊
Great job. Thanks so much for the help!!!
You're Welcome Ray. I'm glad i could help
Great video
Thanks
Awesome Thank U good Sir ..!! 👍🏼
Tony Rodriguez Thanks for the comment and the thumbs up Tony ! Subscribe if you want to see more ...Cheers!
Thanks boss
No problem, I hope it helps
This is the same 2006isuzu 2.8 that I have
Excellent. Take a look, I have a 2005 Chevy colorado playlist with over 20 videos that will be specific to your truck. Enjoy.
42:23 starting to get bolts 5 6 7 8 9. Bolts 1 2 3 4 are easy.
48:38 bolt 8 9
51:30 bolt 7, the hardest one of all
54:05 fuel rail
Think alot of the price is labor usually is 😎
Absolutely, the cost of labour for working on our trucks is through the roof. You can save a lot by doing the work yourself and keeping your money in your pocket. Hopefully, some of my videos can save you some $. Cheers James!
Wow you made a easy job so much harder then it really it 🤣
Why didn't you show us how to put the clamp back on the fuel injector I'm really angry
Ok but now do it to a 05 chevy colorado that has struts on the front not shocks
Isuzu engine same engine in Hummer H3