Hello, thank you! The wood was looking good at first sight but the more we check the more we notice damaged due to sun and time, plus some rotten parts due to water leak in the galley via the porthole. Beside, all this wood gives a dark atmosphere and we prefer clearness brought by white and light wood. At the present time we are still looking for the proper compounds to apply to get a long-lasting white on some areas and a light wood color (or varnish) on the others. Then we'll choose the best balance to have enough luminosity and keep it cosy. Cheers..
I think is worth mentioning that after cleaning with vinegar the rust, you have to add water with baking soda to stop the vinegar from eating everything after the rust is gone
Oh ! We didn’t know that ! We actually add clear water to rince away the vinegar. But this is a great tip we weren’t aware of. Thank you for it, next time we’ll do so and mention it.
I hope none of those "home" fittings are for saltwater lines. They are bi-metallic (contain more than one type of metal like brass and stainless or aluminum) and will corrode away very quickly. Like within a year of saltwater exposure.
No of course not ! It is only for clear water system. We know a couple who uses the same pipes and connections for over 2 years now and it didn’t move. They only had to change one connection since the installation. We hope to get the same satisfaction as we can do all the maintenance ourselves.
Salut guys, The white wall makes the saloon looks huge but cosy. Nice choice! Now you're redoing the plumbing system can you share your best practices on heads use and maintenance? See you dans deux semaines! P.S. we're almost 1k here!
Hi Ronaldo, thank you! The idea is to make a more modern style inside and to keep the spirit of the boat. Hard balance but we have time to do it. About the plumbing, since we are still on the ground we don't use it that much. But when we are on the water, the plan will be for the hot shower to use the engine for about 30 minutes. If the sea is warm enough we could just use the clear water to rince. Of course, we are good to find ecological soap and shampoo to avoid as many pollution as possible. Same for the dish washing, sea water to wash, tank water to rince. For the maintenance, having a system that you can check and have access to all the connection is essential, so we did it in that purpose. Then, the filters have to changed every 6 months, so that would be the thing to think about. Thanks again for your support from the beginning, yes the 1000 milestone is getting closer, really exciting.. See you!
I almost cried when I saw what happened to the beautiful interior varnish. Different strokes for different folks I guess, but that's a change that will never be recoverable.
The heater water from the engine will contain small amounts of iron from the engine block... Without being open to O2 it will not turn to Iron oxide ..rust rather it has only enough O2 in the water to form Ferric oxide ...which is black.. Leave it exposed to the air a longer time and it will start turning to rust red Ferrous oxide as it can bond to the extra O2 in the air. Tip ..cut up and away with a craft knife cutting cable ties.. it avoids stabbing or nicking pipes and cables.. Better still snips or scissors.
Ok! Nice explanation. So the black water that went out from the inside heating system, when we washed it, is due to this oxydation! Would this mean that at the moment we see a red shade in the fresh water, the rust in the inside heating pipes has become major ? That would lead to leaks between the water in the heating pipes and the clear water we use? Thanks for the tip.
@@sailingoriyo Yes...its black from steel corrosion, without enough O2 from the water being a sealed system and comming from from the engines water jacket. No just that O2 is getting in to the cooling circuit. ...or youve put a lot of tap water into the coolant without pre boiling it or adding antifreeze/corrosion inhibitor. If its coming out the sink taps after running there may be a problem but check the boats fresh water tanks first.🤔 The electrical heater element should be checked for continuity and resistance....and if its actually being fed power and from what source. Your heater/ calorifier should be all non ferrous copper/brass or stainless steel inside.. The worst case is it could sludge up if there was a lot of corrosion from the engine being circulated.. like a car radiator that has been topped up frequently but with no antifreeze...it prevents corrosion as well as reduces freezing point and increases the boiling point of the water in the engine coolant....assuming its not a raw sea water cooling system? Flushing the whole engine system and engine heat exchanger if it has one will help avoid problems later. The raw sea water cooling circuit can become coated in calcium deposits that reduce heat transfer efficiency. So using a flushing solution like Barnacle buster .. can clear that out.
Thanks so much! So far, we are not planning on adding a watermaker. Our previous sailing experiences taught us to live aboard with a small amount of clear water. This is included in the minimalist life on the seas package! We are thinking about making a system to catch rain water and drive it to our tanks. The watermaker remains an awesome device to get more comfort, but this will be another budget for another time maybe down the road.
This yacht is looking really beautiful. You two are going to have a beautiful sailboat.
Hello! Thank you we hope so..
you did right painting in white , changes completely the luminosity inside
Hello, thank you! The wood was looking good at first sight but the more we check the more we notice damaged due to sun and time, plus some rotten parts due to water leak in the galley via the porthole. Beside, all this wood gives a dark atmosphere and we prefer clearness brought by white and light wood. At the present time we are still looking for the proper compounds to apply to get a long-lasting white on some areas and a light wood color (or varnish) on the others. Then we'll choose the best balance to have enough luminosity and keep it cosy. Cheers..
You guys are doing quality work to a quality boat she will be better than ever!!!
Thank you! We are trying our best, she deserves so much care.. See you for the next episode!
I think is worth mentioning that after cleaning with vinegar the rust, you have to add water with baking soda to stop the vinegar from eating everything after the rust is gone
Oh ! We didn’t know that ! We actually add clear water to rince away the vinegar. But this is a great tip we weren’t aware of. Thank you for it, next time we’ll do so and mention it.
Wow, you guys are doing great work!
Hello Adrian, thank you! We are glad you follow us from the start and now we just reached our first 1000! So thank you so much..
Great video
Thank you!
Subscibed. Glad to have found you. Your Presentation style is very enjoyable. 😎
Hello and thank you! We are happy to welcome you and that you enjoy our video production. See you in two weeks for the next episode!
Hoped that you checked that the radiator water flowing into the water heater does not cross over into the clean heated water.
Hello, yes we checked that! This would be a real problem, but the two flowing systems are correctly split.
I hope none of those "home" fittings are for saltwater lines. They are bi-metallic (contain more than one type of metal like brass and stainless or aluminum) and will corrode away very quickly. Like within a year of saltwater exposure.
No of course not ! It is only for clear water system. We know a couple who uses the same pipes and connections for over 2 years now and it didn’t move. They only had to change one connection since the installation. We hope to get the same satisfaction as we can do all the maintenance ourselves.
Salut guys, The white wall makes the saloon looks huge but cosy. Nice choice! Now you're redoing the plumbing system can you share your best practices on heads use and maintenance? See you dans deux semaines!
P.S. we're almost 1k here!
Hi Ronaldo, thank you! The idea is to make a more modern style inside and to keep the spirit of the boat. Hard balance but we have time to do it.
About the plumbing, since we are still on the ground we don't use it that much. But when we are on the water, the plan will be for the hot shower to use the engine for about 30 minutes. If the sea is warm enough we could just use the clear water to rince. Of course, we are good to find ecological soap and shampoo to avoid as many pollution as possible. Same for the dish washing, sea water to wash, tank water to rince.
For the maintenance, having a system that you can check and have access to all the connection is essential, so we did it in that purpose. Then, the filters have to changed every 6 months, so that would be the thing to think about.
Thanks again for your support from the beginning, yes the 1000 milestone is getting closer, really exciting.. See you!
I almost cried when I saw what happened to the beautiful interior varnish. Different strokes for different folks I guess, but that's a change that will never be recoverable.
The heater water from the engine will contain small amounts of iron from the engine block... Without being open to O2 it will not turn to Iron oxide ..rust rather it has only enough O2 in the water to form Ferric oxide ...which is black..
Leave it exposed to the air a longer time and it will start turning to rust red Ferrous oxide as it can bond to the extra O2 in the air.
Tip ..cut up and away with a craft knife cutting cable ties.. it avoids stabbing or nicking pipes and cables..
Better still snips or scissors.
Ok! Nice explanation. So the black water that went out from the inside heating system, when we washed it, is due to this oxydation! Would this mean that at the moment we see a red shade in the fresh water, the rust in the inside heating pipes has become major ? That would lead to leaks between the water in the heating pipes and the clear water we use?
Thanks for the tip.
@@sailingoriyo
Yes...its black from steel corrosion, without enough O2 from the water being a sealed system and comming from from the engines water jacket.
No just that O2 is getting in to the cooling circuit. ...or youve put a lot of tap water into the coolant without pre boiling it or adding antifreeze/corrosion inhibitor. If its coming out the sink taps after running there may be a problem but check the boats fresh water tanks first.🤔
The electrical heater element should be checked for continuity and resistance....and if its actually being fed power and from what source.
Your heater/ calorifier should be all non ferrous copper/brass or stainless steel inside..
The worst case is it could sludge up if there was a lot of corrosion from the engine being circulated.. like a car radiator that has been topped up frequently but with no antifreeze...it prevents corrosion as well as reduces freezing point and increases the boiling point of the water in the engine coolant....assuming its not a raw sea water cooling system?
Flushing the whole engine system and engine heat exchanger if it has one will help avoid problems later.
The raw sea water cooling circuit can become coated in calcium deposits that reduce heat transfer efficiency. So using a flushing solution like Barnacle buster .. can clear that out.
Great video, Oriyo is moving right along.. I have a question, Are you going to install a watermaker?
Thanks so much! So far, we are not planning on adding a watermaker. Our previous sailing experiences taught us to live aboard with a small amount of clear water. This is included in the minimalist life on the seas package! We are thinking about making a system to catch rain water and drive it to our tanks. The watermaker remains an awesome device to get more comfort, but this will be another budget for another time maybe down the road.