I love that you chose to keep in all the scrapped planning. It would have been easy to record a bit describing the final plan as if it were the only plan. This type of honesty is useful for the beginning woodworker.
It is so refreshing to see that I'm not the only one going through a series of ideas as my project evolves. So I'm not the only crazy one....insert lunatic laugh here
Why not use recessed keyholes for hanging? No need to drill through and then repaint in place, and it adds just a tiny little bit of complexity to the project...
@@mattrinne - Exactly! If I did that, I'd accidentally break the mirror within a week or two and be tearing the wall apart to get the darn thing down. 🤯
I was going to suggest keyhole brackets as well. The frame looks thick enough to create the recessed holes... Then you just put the screws into the wall sticking out a little and lower the mirror onto them, like four tiny French cleats!
Thanks Steve, I actually was going through these exact same issues and problem solving ideas when I found a 3x3 mirror without any frame up for grabs. Love that you talk through it all and don't out the middle.
Top tip: Save the expense and hassle of hanging mirrors! Simply have your spouse or partner describe you and provide directions while you arrange hair or apply makeup.
You probably think this video was a disaster, but it’s completely honest and exactly what novice woodworkers go through all the time. So in that way, it’s really a fantastic video. It shows the trial and error and design and redesign everyone goes through, even the more experienced like yourself. And it make us novices feel better about our own troublesome projects. Thanks for being comfortable with showing all the steps and missteps to show what real woodworking for mere mortals is like.
Final plan = Good One of the things I like about Steve is he doesn't pretend to make everything perfect. He knows we all make mistakes, and understands the process of thinking and logic. THIS is why I love this channel and I look forward to every video.
Sorry, but I love to see, that such an experienced woodworker like u, struggles with the same things like beginners sometimes! Thanks for sharing this with us.
It's tough to let go of ideas when refinimg stuff so good job! I'd heartily recommend using a key hole bracket though, so you can remove the mirror if needs be. That way it sits flush and its not really complex at all. You could do it with a srill and a router, or buy a little metal insert that would mean you only need a drill!
you could use key hole slots on the back side of the mirror to keep the fixings out of sight and that way you can still take it down to clean it or for any other reason
In his book, "Every Tool's A Hammer" Adam Savage calls this mental process you're going through iteration-- each subsequent plan being an improvement as you learn what works & what doesn't. Love that you're keeping the "mere mortal" spirit alive on UA-cam! :D
I made a rabbeted from for a very large mirror in my dining room and just dropped the mirror in and put screws with very large washers (tiny center hole) and it works great. Holds the mirror, no backing, no bowing.
Thanks Steve for the details on the mirror project. I have a similar mirror project of my own that I have been wanted to do lasst summer and got postpone to the winter holiday. Now, I'll wait and see how your's turn out to make mine!
You probably don’t need to plug the holes with dowels, a little spackel or wood filler would do the trick and mean less sanding. Spackel is softer too and easier to dig through if you ever need to remove it fo any reason.
I once used nails to help hold a mirror in place. Moisture, in the bathroom, caused the nails to rust which attacked the silvering on the mirror. The end result was a mirror with rust/black dots along it's edge.
You described 99% of the thought process in my head! Management needs to see this so they can see that I am not the only one - "See, even UA-cam Professionals think the way I do!" Not sure she will buy it however! Thanks!
The mirror glue is called mastic. It’s flexible and never hardens. It doesn’t eat the back of the mirror either. Should be reusable if you add a dab more. It won’t let the plywood complexly control the mirror as badly.
I actually did a full length mirror in the dressing room inside the master bathroom. I used the mirror mastic to glue the mirror to the actual wall supported it with some wood blocks until the mastic dried then basically picture framed the mirror. It came out well and it’s been up for about 13 years! Easiest way I found to do it and the mirror is 3’ w X 7 1/2’ H maybe try that??
I did a similar project a couple of years ago when building a inset wall jewelry cabinet. I ended up covering the back of the mirror with black felt before I attached a few functional pieces of wood used for holding my wifes necklaces and ear rings.
If you screw the mirror frame directly into the wall and then plug the screws, getting it off the wall (whenever) will be a pain, but also dangerous with a high chance of glass breaking. I think a keyhole or even a thin sawtooth hook would suit your needs well. Regardless, I look forward to your next video as always!
Hmm if you go with screwing the frame to the wall you might want to make the plugs somewhat decorative so if you want to remove the mirror later you can pop the plugs and remove the screws
Oh my Gosh How I can relate to this!!! I think I like your final plan the best. :) We will see tomorrow if it was indeed the final plan. :) Great video! Thank you. Peace and Good Fortune and Good Health to you and your family. Stay safe and sane. :)
Your mind doesn't want to over-complicate things. Your ideas evolve. With enough time and thought, you eventually get to the simpler solution. For that reason, I hold off on starting a project to give myself time to refine my ideas. Whether it's woodworking or my day job (programming), I know better than to just go off.
Just a quick tip when you put screws in a bathroom. Screws penetrate the waterproofing layers and can cause mold inside the walls. To seal it use liberal amounts of bathroom-grade silicon in the holes to prevent moisture from creeping inside the wall.
I love the thought process. I would put that in the bathroom without mirror and get all the drilling done before the glass is in, so its not to heavy to do the fiddly bit, of getting it straight.
Thanks for giving me a wonderful new video to watch as I lay here donating plasma. You really are the best in the biz. I am so grateful to have stumbled upon your channel this year and discovered my love for woodworking. Love me some Steve.
To mount the mirror to the back of the frame use offset clips. They come in several depths of offset to match the offset needed for the art, or mirror in this case. When mounting a canvas the offset is usually away from the frame, as the canvas is usually deeper than the rabbet. In this case the offset would be into the frame since the mirror is thinner than the depth of the rabbet. To hang the mirror use keyhole hangers. They're very strong.
You should get one of those router bits that cuts the keyhole slot. I don’t use them much, but they come in handy when you want to hang something flush with the wall, and no screws through the front, so it would be easy to take down if ever needed.
My parents' house was built by them in '52. The long mirror is right outside the bathroom and it was basically done like a picture frame. No points, adhesive, or lapjoints. The bottom was placed first with finishing nails and then the mirror was set in the channel formed by that. Then the top and sides were done the same way. Mom had the original mirror replaced about 10 years ago and it was very simple to do and was just a matter of prying off the frame, putting the mirror in the same way and putting the other 3 pieces back up. I don't think they even used different nails. Easy peasy. Remember - work smarter, not harder! Thanks, Steve.
I forgot to mention it's on a door, too, so it survived my teenage door slam years. The silvering was just starting to turn grey so mom replaced it. I'm still using the old mirror at my house though.
I use frameless mirror clips to hang wood framed mirrors. just cut a thin kerf (7 1/4" blade) in the top and bottom of the wood frame and make it so that the clip fits then all you have to do is place the bottom of the frame so the it is hooked in the bottom clips that are attached to the wall. with the top clips raised push the frame against the wall and press the clips down into their grove.
Steve, you can mount it to the wall as you say with screws in recessed holes made by a forstner bit....and I think they make decorative plugs that go in the hole to cover the screw that can make a nice accent, and if you ever have to take it down, you just pop the plug out.
Love the idea of using the half-lap construction and not having to use ‘nail and screws’ in the build! I’m just a part time woodworker do I can’t justify the cost of a dado stack in my shop plus I’m not to sure I could use those in my Dewalt job site table saw. Still love the way you work through your build though, I’m guilty of , as my wife says in “overbuilding “ everything, lol!
Start with a master plan (way over engineered) modify that, modify again. end up with real basic and simple plan that should have been done to begin with. Glad I am not the only one that does this.
You mentioned door when gluing the frame. Do you have a video, or know of video on how to make such a door? I have not done half flap joint before and I was wondering if that is what is used for door. I am thinking about making folding door, similar to what is used in closets, but it will be separating 2 living rooms, and will have glass windows from top to bottom. Thank you
I made a frame for an over-the-sink bathroom mirror and I too decided to screw it directly into the wall. I drilled a hole for the screws (or in my case, bolts, because I had to use molly bolts) about 1-1/2" from each corner. Then I drilled another set of holes over them to accept button plugs. I painted the frame and the plugs separately. I then hung the mirror using molly bolts, and when the mirror was fastened down I inserted a painted button plug in each hole. Those plugs give the mirror frame a bit of character, and by popping them out I can easily remove the mirror from the wall if I would ever need to.
It's sort of like doing repeatable functions on a project. You start out doing it the hard way and by the last action you have found the best way to do it.
But at least you got some extra video out of it ..lol.. I love seeing how your logic and plans develop. That is the sign of a constantly thinking mind! Also the reason you have nearly 1.6m subscribers.
I have the same table saw.....do you have any videos on how you square the miter slot to the blade, and fence? I took the top off, dremmeled out the holes a little to give me some play to adjust the top. I am having fits with the fence.
I guess you don't have to worry about humidity and getting mold pm the cardboard, eventually softening it. Here in India we would get mold on the back of the mirror even if it were wood, let alone cardboard. Here what I started using for backer boards is Aluminum composite boards (or just called Composite boards here) they are a tad expensive, but much much sturdy for such applications she of course super lightweight.
I am starting this exact project shortly. Any tips for cutting the half laps on the longer boards? I don’t have a dado stack and my table saw is pretty small. I noticed in the video that you show cutting the half laps on the shorter boards. Did you have a side table or something when doing the longer boards? Maybe it’d be easier for me to use the plunge router with a stop?
Steve I have the same mindset. I am about your age so I don’t know if it is our age group or our method of thinking. I can build something and 3-6 months later look at it and say I would build that totally different if I were to build it again. But then I think, it is a method of improvement so that is a good thing.
Bear in mind that you will see the inside of the frame reflected in the mirror. Looks like the rabbet is nice and wide, I would keep the adhesive as far on the inside as possible, to avoid being able to see it in the reflection. It is hard to glue things to glass. Hope it works for you, Steve!
Found you recently and have been binge watching your videos. I am kind of a newbie to wood working even though my dad and uncle are amazing wood workers. I wish i would have picked it up from them many years ago. I swearing you sound like me. I was going to do this, but it wont work because... So then i was thinking this, but.... So decided to do this instead. I annoy my husband with it sometimes haha
Might be a good idea to run a bead of clear caulk along the front inner edges to prevent moisture from seeping into the rabbets and causing mold/mildew. Also, not sure if a good idea or a bad one, what about gluing a full sheet of plywood to the back, same external dimensions as the frame, to fully enclose the mirror and prevent moisture from collecting back there. I also suggest recessed keyholes for flush mounting.
I've seen a lot of mirror frames being mitered. Could you achieve a mitered look while still doing the same steps you did, but make a 45° angle with your dados/rabbets? Or more simply, is there such a thing as mitered half laps?
I love that you chose to keep in all the scrapped planning. It would have been easy to record a bit describing the final plan as if it were the only plan. This type of honesty is useful for the beginning woodworker.
It is so refreshing to see that I'm not the only one going through a series of ideas as my project evolves. So I'm not the only crazy one....insert lunatic laugh here
Your honesty is very refreshing and I love how you work through things 👏🏻
I love hearing you talk through the thought process of solving the project problems. Great video
This reminds me of the time I started to build a shelf for my toddler and ended up with a firetruck bed.
David St-Laurent: Holy Cow. That's really funny. Thanks for the laugh!
🤣
lololol
Just as well you included the final 'bed' - otherwise a completely different image emerges!
Glad you decided not to keep your toddler on a shelf. Obviously you need a lockable cupboard for those.
Why not use recessed keyholes for hanging? No need to drill through and then repaint in place, and it adds just a tiny little bit of complexity to the project...
And then it's not screwed to the wall with screw heads hidden. Imagine how tough that would be to remove someday!
also, it would make it easier to remove the mirror sometime in the future, with screws and dowels glued over them it would be impossible
@@mattrinne - Exactly! If I did that, I'd accidentally break the mirror within a week or two and be tearing the wall apart to get the darn thing down. 🤯
I was going to suggest keyhole brackets as well. The frame looks thick enough to create the recessed holes... Then you just put the screws into the wall sticking out a little and lower the mirror onto them, like four tiny French cleats!
This is the way to go.
Thanks Steve, I actually was going through these exact same issues and problem solving ideas when I found a 3x3 mirror without any frame up for grabs. Love that you talk through it all and don't out the middle.
This was so cathartic to watch; I overthink projects like this too. Just love watching people in the making process. Thanks Steve!
Such a relief to see you change your mind almost as many times as I do during the project. Love your stuff!
"New plan, we don't really need a mirror at all!" 😅
Haha!!
"Let's try something 'unusual' - only hang a frame!"
Top tip: Save the expense and hassle of hanging mirrors! Simply have your spouse or partner describe you and provide directions while you arrange hair or apply makeup.
lol
Gloss paint on walls!
I love the unpredictable, fly-by-the-seat-of-your-pants feel of this show!
You probably think this video was a disaster, but it’s completely honest and exactly what novice woodworkers go through all the time. So in that way, it’s really a fantastic video. It shows the trial and error and design and redesign everyone goes through, even the more experienced like yourself. And it make us novices feel better about our own troublesome projects.
Thanks for being comfortable with showing all the steps and missteps to show what real woodworking for mere mortals is like.
Awesome Update Steve ! Love The Style Of Half Lap Joints For Framing !
Final plan = Good
One of the things I like about Steve is he doesn't pretend to make everything perfect. He knows we all make mistakes, and understands the process of thinking and logic.
THIS is why I love this channel and I look forward to every video.
Thanks for being you Steve. It's nice to see a real person work through a project planning 🤔👍❤
Don't overthink it, Steve. Just do it. 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
That’s what I like...a man of who’s always thinking, rethinking, and re-rethinking.
Sorry, but I love to see, that such an experienced woodworker like u, struggles with the same things like beginners sometimes! Thanks for sharing this with us.
"I got to thinking"... The phrase that triples Steve's project times. :-)
I’m so glad I’m not the only one who does this, makes me feel closer to ‘normal’ 😂
Reminds me of a school project to make a table. By the time I'd finished I had a small stool and a lot of shavings!
Great work mate, I love how you get to the final result and make the journey exciting and interesting.
See you tomorrow 😁
Love the mirror saga!
Your channel must be heating up the algorithms. Adds every 3-4 minutes. I am not deterred.
Always looking forward to your vids!
Should I mention you probably don't even need to remove the glue from the back of you're not going to attach anything to the back? :D
Don't distract him! The bathroom will never get finished!
LOL...true!
Hindsight is a b!tch, isn't it? :P
🤣
It's tough to let go of ideas when refinimg stuff so good job! I'd heartily recommend using a key hole bracket though, so you can remove the mirror if needs be. That way it sits flush and its not really complex at all. You could do it with a srill and a router, or buy a little metal insert that would mean you only need a drill!
you could use key hole slots on the back side of the mirror to keep the fixings out of sight and that way you can still take it down to clean it or for any other reason
In his book, "Every Tool's A Hammer" Adam Savage calls this mental process you're going through iteration-- each subsequent plan being an improvement as you learn what works & what doesn't. Love that you're keeping the "mere mortal" spirit alive on UA-cam! :D
appreciate that you showed us how much thought typically goes into even a relatively small project...
I made a rabbeted from for a very large mirror in my dining room and just dropped the mirror in and put screws with very large washers (tiny center hole) and it works great. Holds the mirror, no backing, no bowing.
oops...meant to say a "rabbeted frame".....
It's honestly kind of nice to see the problem solving struggles
It’s fun to see/hear/be part of the thought process. All of us can over complicate matters!
Thanks Steve for the details on the mirror project. I have a similar mirror project of my own that I have been wanted to do lasst summer and got postpone to the winter holiday. Now, I'll wait and see how your's turn out to make mine!
Just lean the bare mirror against the wall. Done!
Now you're speaking my language
You probably don’t need to plug the holes with dowels, a little spackel or wood filler would do the trick and mean less sanding. Spackel is softer too and easier to dig through if you ever need to remove it fo any reason.
I once used nails to help hold a mirror in place. Moisture, in the bathroom, caused the nails to rust which attacked the silvering on the mirror. The end result was a mirror with rust/black dots along it's edge.
Steve, you're a refreshing part of my youtube woodworking day. Problem solving in action. Keep it going man!
That was a journey and a half... I'm glad I am not alone when it come to overcomplicating things.
Love it...we All overthink the simplest things sometimes in life.
I am really glad that I am not the only one with brain storms during a project. And reading the comments looks like there are more!
You described 99% of the thought process in my head! Management needs to see this so they can see that I am not the only one - "See, even UA-cam Professionals think the way I do!" Not sure she will buy it however! Thanks!
The mirror glue is called mastic. It’s flexible and never hardens. It doesn’t eat the back of the mirror either. Should be reusable if you add a dab more. It won’t let the plywood complexly control the mirror as badly.
You plan like I do! It's so good to be understood....
I actually did a full length mirror in the dressing room inside the master bathroom. I used the mirror mastic to glue the mirror to the actual wall supported it with some wood blocks until the mastic dried then basically picture framed the mirror. It came out well and it’s been up for about 13 years! Easiest way I found to do it and the mirror is 3’ w X 7 1/2’ H maybe try that??
Oh man, by 1:45 in, my head was spinning! Good job and thanks for helping during the lockdown.
I did a similar project a couple of years ago when building a inset wall jewelry cabinet. I ended up covering the back of the mirror with black felt before I attached a few functional pieces of wood used for holding my wifes necklaces and ear rings.
If you screw the mirror frame directly into the wall and then plug the screws, getting it off the wall (whenever) will be a pain, but also dangerous with a high chance of glass breaking. I think a keyhole or even a thin sawtooth hook would suit your needs well. Regardless, I look forward to your next video as always!
I did this same project and I just used construction adhesive inside the rabbit and then laid the mirror down and I didn’t have a problem.
Hilarious steve.i thought it was just me that changed my mind throughout the build. First class sir
That was a wild ride
thanks Steve from algeria
Hmm if you go with screwing the frame to the wall you might want to make the plugs somewhat decorative so if you want to remove the mirror later you can pop the plugs and remove the screws
My thoughts exactly.
My thought too - I can imagine 10 years later, bathroom remodel - how the heck is this mirror stuck to the wall?
You beat me to it!
Looks like your scrap bin will be filling up nicely 😂👍🏻
Oh my Gosh How I can relate to this!!! I think I like your final plan the best. :) We will see tomorrow if it was indeed the final plan. :) Great video! Thank you. Peace and Good Fortune and Good Health to you and your family. Stay safe and sane. :)
Your mind doesn't want to over-complicate things. Your ideas evolve. With enough time and thought, you eventually get to the simpler solution. For that reason, I hold off on starting a project to give myself time to refine my ideas. Whether it's woodworking or my day job (programming), I know better than to just go off.
Just a quick tip when you put screws in a bathroom. Screws penetrate the waterproofing layers and can cause mold inside the walls. To seal it use liberal amounts of bathroom-grade silicon in the holes to prevent moisture from creeping inside the wall.
I love the thought process. I would put that in the bathroom without mirror and get all the drilling done before the glass is in, so its not to heavy to do the fiddly bit, of getting it straight.
I love your explanation. I'm enjoying it.
I love the last plan 😎
Thanks for giving me a wonderful new video to watch as I lay here donating plasma. You really are the best in the biz. I am so grateful to have stumbled upon your channel this year and discovered my love for woodworking. Love me some Steve.
To mount the mirror to the back of the frame use offset clips. They come in several depths of offset to match the offset needed for the art, or mirror in this case. When mounting a canvas the offset is usually away from the frame, as the canvas is usually deeper than the rabbet. In this case the offset would be into the frame since the mirror is thinner than the depth of the rabbet.
To hang the mirror use keyhole hangers. They're very strong.
You should get one of those router bits that cuts the keyhole slot. I don’t use them much, but they come in handy when you want to hang something flush with the wall, and no screws through the front, so it would be easy to take down if ever needed.
I like to hear your thoughts as you’re working through these projects and solving problems.
My parents' house was built by them in '52. The long mirror is right outside the bathroom and it was basically done like a picture frame. No points, adhesive, or lapjoints. The bottom was placed first with finishing nails and then the mirror was set in the channel formed by that. Then the top and sides were done the same way. Mom had the original mirror replaced about 10 years ago and it was very simple to do and was just a matter of prying off the frame, putting the mirror in the same way and putting the other 3 pieces back up. I don't think they even used different nails. Easy peasy. Remember - work smarter, not harder! Thanks, Steve.
I forgot to mention it's on a door, too, so it survived my teenage door slam years. The silvering was just starting to turn grey so mom replaced it. I'm still using the old mirror at my house though.
I use frameless mirror clips to hang wood framed mirrors. just cut a thin kerf (7 1/4" blade) in the top and bottom of the wood frame and make it so that the clip fits then all you have to do is place the bottom of the frame so the it is hooked in the bottom clips that are attached to the wall. with the top clips raised push the frame against the wall and press the clips down into their grove.
Steve, you can mount it to the wall as you say with screws in recessed holes made by a forstner bit....and I think they make decorative plugs that go in the hole to cover the screw that can make a nice accent, and if you ever have to take it down, you just pop the plug out.
Love the idea of using the half-lap construction and not having to use ‘nail and screws’ in the build! I’m just a part time woodworker do I can’t justify the cost of a dado stack in my shop plus I’m not to sure I could use those in my Dewalt job site table saw. Still love the way you work through your build though, I’m guilty of , as my wife says in “overbuilding “ everything, lol!
Start with a master plan (way over engineered) modify that, modify again. end up with real basic and simple plan that should have been done to begin with. Glad I am not the only one that does this.
Great job!
Its all about iteration! 😀👍
Cardboard! BRILLIANT!!!
You mentioned door when gluing the frame. Do you have a video, or know of video on how to make such a door? I have not done half flap joint before and I was wondering if that is what is used for door. I am thinking about making folding door, similar to what is used in closets, but it will be separating 2 living rooms, and will have glass windows from top to bottom. Thank you
Use glazing points and skip the mirror compound you'll be okay
I was totally thinking this too. I mean if they work with glass they should work with a mirror.
Agree. Plus if the mirror gets cracked or broken, it's much easier to replace without having to deal with dried adhesive again.
Hands close to the blade... Nice work
I made a frame for an over-the-sink bathroom mirror and I too decided to screw it directly into the wall. I drilled a hole for the screws (or in my case, bolts, because I had to use molly bolts) about 1-1/2" from each corner. Then I drilled another set of holes over them to accept button plugs. I painted the frame and the plugs separately. I then hung the mirror using molly bolts, and when the mirror was fastened down I inserted a painted button plug in each hole. Those plugs give the mirror frame a bit of character, and by popping them out I can easily remove the mirror from the wall if I would ever need to.
It's sort of like doing repeatable functions on a project. You start out doing it the hard way and by the last action you have found the best way to do it.
But at least you got some extra video out of it ..lol.. I love seeing how your logic and plans develop. That is the sign of a constantly thinking mind! Also the reason you have nearly 1.6m subscribers.
Maybe you could replace the cardboard with a few coats of spray laquer? :)
LOL!
Hey Steve, yep, look at any photo picture frame. Frame, glass, matting, photo, cardboard backer.
Cheers.
Nice frame! It will fit the mirror well
I have the same table saw.....do you have any videos on how you square the miter slot to the blade, and fence? I took the top off, dremmeled out the holes a little to give me some play to adjust the top. I am having fits with the fence.
Hang in there Steve.
I guess you don't have to worry about humidity and getting mold pm the cardboard, eventually softening it. Here in India we would get mold on the back of the mirror even if it were wood, let alone cardboard.
Here what I started using for backer boards is Aluminum composite boards (or just called Composite boards here) they are a tad expensive, but much much sturdy for such applications she of course super lightweight.
I am starting this exact project shortly. Any tips for cutting the half laps on the longer boards? I don’t have a dado stack and my table saw is pretty small. I noticed in the video that you show cutting the half laps on the shorter boards. Did you have a side table or something when doing the longer boards? Maybe it’d be easier for me to use the plunge router with a stop?
Glazing points and window glazing putty. That'll work!
The nails you are talking about are called Glazing points. Are use them all the time on picture frames. Quick and easy.
Steve I have the same mindset. I am about your age so I don’t know if it is our age group or our method of thinking. I can build something and 3-6 months later look at it and say I would build that totally different if I were to build it again. But then I think, it is a method of improvement so that is a good thing.
Best. Project. Ever. 😂 🤣😂 🤣
HAHA This is am excellent video! We all have ideas in our minds constantly changing. Very entertaining.
Bear in mind that you will see the inside of the frame reflected in the mirror. Looks like the rabbet is nice and wide, I would keep the adhesive as far on the inside as possible, to avoid being able to see it in the reflection.
It is hard to glue things to glass. Hope it works for you, Steve!
Wow, that is some 'beautiful mind" logic going on there. Makes me glad that we are witnesses to such a "beautiful mind" working.
Is there anything I have to do to wood for furniture I'm building for the master bathroom?
Found you recently and have been binge watching your videos. I am kind of a newbie to wood working even though my dad and uncle are amazing wood workers. I wish i would have picked it up from them many years ago.
I swearing you sound like me.
I was going to do this, but it wont work because...
So then i was thinking this, but....
So decided to do this instead.
I annoy my husband with it sometimes haha
Highly recommend Steve's online Weekend Woodworker course. Well worth it.
Might be a good idea to run a bead of clear caulk along the front inner edges to prevent moisture from seeping into the rabbets and causing mold/mildew.
Also, not sure if a good idea or a bad one, what about gluing a full sheet of plywood to the back, same external dimensions as the frame, to fully enclose the mirror and prevent moisture from collecting back there. I also suggest recessed keyholes for flush mounting.
Most relatable video ever haha
This gave me a good laugh. I may or may not work on projects this way.
Love it
So how would you remove the mirror then?
Lol. Yup simple ans always seem to take forever to get there. Looking forward to the finished mirror
I've seen a lot of mirror frames being mitered. Could you achieve a mitered look while still doing the same steps you did, but make a 45° angle with your dados/rabbets? Or more simply, is there such a thing as mitered half laps?
Thanks Steve. It sounds like this second round of lockdown is messing with your mind! Hang in there we are rooting for you.