Audi 4.2 V8 cooler pipe leak | Tricks, Tips,Tools, Sage Wisdom | C5 A6
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- On an Audi C5 A6 4.2 V8 this job can be done easily enough from the underside with a lift…possibly on jack stands but having room to work underneath makes a big difference. You may get access to some bolts from above by removing the air box. However, I believe you will still need to follow all of directions below to drop the bracket and cooler out of the bottom of the engine bay. Key tools and torque specs below.
MAC RBRT HEX set (or just the 8mm)
www.mactools.c...
1. Put front end in service position.
• Audi A6 (C5) 1998-2004...
2. Remove oil filter
3. Remove alternator belt, alternator and plastic breather
• Alternator: Audi C5 A6...
4. Undo swaybar from both sides
5 Remove passenger side rear engine support (unplug wire from it first), and bracket
6. Take your time removing the 5 or 6 hex bolts that hold the cooler in place (the top ones are tricky and will likely take you a few hours to undo and reinstall) -if at this point you think that this is impossible... persevere....you will get it done!
7. Replace with new billet Bufkin, don’t even think about using a plastic factory one again
www.gruvenpart...
8. Disassemble oil cooler from bracket (clean as needed). Then reinstall with new o-rings. See torque specs below.
Reverse the procedure outlined above for re-install. Follow torque specs below.
Caution! Don't overtighten anything......the block is aluminum.
Here is the parts list:
-o-ring kit for oil cooler
-bufkin pipe (bullet union pipe) link above
o ring for metal coolant pipe
-vw/audi coolant
-new oil filter and washer + more oil
-new accessory belt if you need it
Cooler bolt torque specs:
8mm Allen bolts 45nm
Heater pipe bolt 9nm
Oil cooler to bracket 5nm
Oil pressure switch 20nm
Coolant drain pipe bolt 10nm
These videos are maybe examples of how not to do it, but show a bit of how it can be done.
• audi a6 4.2 quattro oi...
• Audi A8 4.2l Oil Coole...
• AUDI A8 4.2L OIL COOLE...
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A joy to watch you work , lucky customer.
@@timodonnell5667 thank you! My customer I very happy, in this instance it’s me 😀 but I always strive for quality and transparency for my customers
Thank you for this video; torque specs, and tips. I will be doing this job soon.
And, Excellent links in the description 👍🏼
My pleasure ! Patience is the key
@@AutoAfflictedif I put the coolant system under pressure with a tester, will the leak there be apparent? I’d feel better doing this if I was able to first see the leak there for myself.
Pressurizing the system should work. These generally leak a little bit when the car is hot and then just progressively turn into a more catastrophic leak.
Nicely done. My S6 has 138k and I have been steadily ignoring this.
This one seems to have made it 234k unless this is the second time being done, doubtful… really wasn’t to bad of a job.. if I had started with the MAC bit it would have been easy, I started with an average hex bit and stripped the first one I touched 🫣
163k on my S8… I’m reminded I need to do it too. Already have the parts just not the time to do it.
Thanks for the video. I'm in the middle of this repair on an a8 4.2, just now tackling the removal of the soft, shallow, difficult-to-access bolts. Got one off easily, but I can see/feel the others start to strip with a regular m8 allen. Pause. Deep breaths. Ordered a set of the bitey bits, in this case gripedge hex bits--looked but couldn't find the right Mac bits. Fingers crossed. I'll wrap up the timing belt, valve covers, etc in the meantime. Going from the front on the a8, you can avoid removing the cross bar and motor mount, but of course the whole front end has to come off.
Those bolts are so soft and hard to get to, probably one of my most challenging jobs mentally
@@AutoAfflicted Got all the bolts off, finally. I think I used a different tool and setup for each of the 5 bolts. It was crazy. The hardest for me was the lower left. I didn't remove the engine mount (had front off for timing belt change), so it was hard to get enough torque on the bolt. Couldn't use the gripedge (or any other) socket drive hex bit, either, because of the shape of the oil cooler itself, which blocks and limits straight-on access to that bolt. Used a traditional, ell-shaped hex key: chopped a few inches off the long end of the tool, ground the business end flat to sharpen off the rounded edges of the hex to give it just that much more bite in the screw head...Wow. What a pain. It will be tough to get the proper torque tightening that one, but I'll get as close as possible. Thanks again for the encouragement and video.
@joehastings3508 such a difficult job, way to persevere
Great save on that bolt! I hate hate hate when they strip or break.
Spent a good 8 hrs over 2 days discussing options, borrowing those bits and eventually getting that one bolt loose. Had I asked my Audi Master Mechanic beforehand, he would have blessed me with the knowledge and the bits before I stripped it 🤦🏽♂️
VW and Audi engines all use plastic parts for the cooling system lol I’ve had a 1.8 VW in a industrial forklift and everything plastic fitting cracked. Metal is the way to go.
Agreed, who knows what they were thinking
Where did you get the oil cooler oring kit?
I got that through my Audi mechanic friend, I believe straight from Audi