After Sound-Matting My Entire Truck Front To Back HERE'S WHAT I THINK!!
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- Опубліковано 13 сер 2020
- After Sound-Matting My Entire Truck Front To Back HERE'S WHAT I THINK!!
I sound matted my entire 1995 GMC Suburban and the results are in. Do I love it or hate it? Watch the video to find out!
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Here's the Sound Mat I used: amzn.to/2DTJf7z
Here's the roller I used: amzn.to/30V9JhZ
www.1roadgarage.com
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Now time to drop the headliner and get under there. Looks good!
Man, I don’t know about that... might never be able to get it back up.
@@1RoadGarage and you can make series of videos - how I tried to put everything back.
Doing the roof will help keep the heat out so much and you'll notice a huge difference when doing the roof now that the whole floor is done. Sound deaden all the doors, floor , roof and then bed line the hard to reach spots and spray foam the hollow cavities and you'll be blown away with how quite the vehicle can be.
@@1RoadGarage really not that difficult. The floor is a lot harder. I got a couple vids uploaded using GP Car Audio STFUv2 and man what a difference!!! I have 17 sheets @ 18”x36" and I'm adding 5 more.
@@1RoadGarage don't give up!!
When you take the headliner down and put the killmat on the roof you will find more sound canceling and also a reduction of the use of the air conditioner as the matting will reduce the heat/ cooling loss from the roof.
Thanks bro! I’m just afraid of that job!!
@@1RoadGarage don't give up!!!
mike brink thanks mike! Yes, I’ve done that in the previous two videos. Not a huge change.
@@1RoadGarage if you sub the work out, you may kick yourself after seeing what you will need most is a second pair of hands!
The Killmat is only 1/2 the equation. You still need a layer of open or closed cell foam to capture noise. Sound deadening is a multi layer process. Good work so far. I need to do the same to my 98 K3500 after doing a Cummins swap.
I just bought a 2003 Burban and drove across country with no issues. These trucks are worth fixing up
Great to see this! The kilmat is great for taking out vibrations for sure, and that is why most people use it. That said ... if you REALLY want that E-Class ride quality, you need to find some thin closed-cell foam to adhere to places to aid in sound absorption. You've dampened harmonics, but if you look in sound booths, they have the foam stuff all over them to absorb noise. Look up Ensolite or the like and use some 3M Super 90 spray adhesive for some of the noisier interior places and you'll have the quiet you're aiming for!
Also, as someone who came from the Subaru world and is now rolling an 07 Avalanche, your "Parts Cannon" mods are inspiring me to make my 16 year old ride that much better!
Newer is always an option but I guess I am old school but I love my 96 burb and will always keep it. I do have some exhaust noise but when I am on the freeway everything calms down at speed it's not bad and what I do hear I like. When I hit the throttle I love hearing the power it still has. I have a 2005 z71 burb and my 96 is actually smoother and my 96 has easier power then my 05. When it comes to newer I wouldn't enjoy it as much as my 96. She is my overland beauty and loving every min. You have done really good with your 95 and keep enjoying it. I go back to your off roading videos and watch with a smile. 90s burb are under rated in my eyes. Keep doing videos on your 95. Thank you again and take care
I have one too. It's a 1995 GMC 454 4X4 suburban.
Mine sounds like a freight train at idle. (will never sell it either)
Like a lot of guys have said here, roof for sure and DOORS. Line the doors and check your foam weather-stripping for gaps. Good weatherstripping will also reduce some of the door vibration due to compressed contact. I plan to do this in my Jeep eventually. 🙂
Considering that you suburban is a 95, I think that it's I great condition. I've been considering doing something similar to my 2009 suburban. I liked that you doubled up in places and did the inside of the doors. The places I would have added to that is behind the rear wheel well panels. A lot of noise comes from tire road noise. For me, that's where I would have started. Now I'm going to have to do the whole thing after seeing this video.
I'm glad you're still tinkering with that truck. I just bought one myself and it's fun scrolling through your channel and seeing a bunch of ideas I already had swirling in the back of my head.
Thank you for your videos, and please keep them coming. You've motivated me a while back to take more pride in my 98' suburban. I've pretty much rebuilt mine instead of dropping thousands on a new vehicle. Again...thanks!
Reflectix the door panels and headliner, works great for sound deadening and thermal issues. (Did my Avalanche in TX)
I just did this to my entire 1988 Chevy Silverado C1500 with dynamat and it totally makes a difference but to get the most out of it you have to do the complete interior. I literally covered the complete truck interior full floor,roof doors inner and outer skin and rear wall. Your right it's alot of labor but it is worth it if you want a quiet ride plus it stays comfortable in the summer and winter. All in all I think I spent about $750 for all the product.
I've been considering do this to my silverado for a while now half for sound deadening and half for insulation down here in south Alabama. You make some great videos, hope your having a good one.
I agree with everyone saying to do the roof. The floor is already pretty insulated with the padding and carpet already. Just take your time and use an insulated product that will keep the heat out too.
You can only put so much of this stuff in your vehicle before you've added too much weight. So many automotive companies now use the expansion foam in the firewalls, pillars and rockers to sound deaden the vehicles.
True, it for sure adds weight. But it's one thing to do this in, say, a '99 Civic. This is a Suburban, and an extra 30lbs to haul around in something with a small block Chevy V8 isn't gonna make all THAT much difference. ;-)
Not just about sound, it greatly helps to insulate the cabin.
Don't forget the back doors and take off real panels to do the sides in rear cargo area and under headliner, Then you can say you have done all you could of to quit it down in your suburban with killmat, a lot of noise comes from the sides of the vehicle, it will also help with the installation comfort of keeping temperature more controlled in your vehicle as well.
Great video. You still have to do the other doors quarters and roof. To really get the full impact.
Like the channel because it’s how I take care of my vehicles. If I found a clean southern truck I would do this and then have a winter beater to take the salt abuse.
Do over the rear wheel wells and under the headliner
The doors is one of the most important places to put killmat!!
As someone who did this to the entire interior from top to bottom, front to back and side to side... the one thing i didnt like was the smell that came off. Luckily when I installed the mats, i was just driving around with the driver and passanger seat in while I waited for my new carpet to come in, No trim, no carpet no other seats, nothing else. So I had plently of time for the mats to vent out the smell. After like a week it was clear again, but man, if it gets really hot inside my truck you can still smell it 3 months later.
Nice work Jimmy!! 👌 You'll definitely notice a difference. Especially with your sound system.
Looks Great!! Nothing like showing love to your daily driver.
I am not worried about loud.... 2006 Silverado with V8 and manual transmission but louder good sounding exhaust (not one of those obnoxious sounds-like-crap ear splitting exhaust), and I still average 17mpg city.
U did very good job . If u want to enjoy more quiet ride try to add a layer of closed cell pe foam then use the mass loaded vinyl this will make the ride really quit focus on the doors and the area srounding the shocks also if u could do it under the dash it will be so perfect . If u don't want to do all of these just do the doors .
I had a Subaru forester, that someone did that to the roof. I was impressed with the work, and actually seemed to do well.
I dino matted my 1991 gmc Crue cab. It cost about 1000 bucks. I did it front to back up the walls and the roof too. I put the dino mat thick foam on the floor on top of the dino mat. It got a lot quieter. Now I can hear all the air noises from the windows when I'm on the freeway. Its and old truck. Sometimes you need to remember that. Lol.
You should the windows done next. I have a SLT 99 and I love it. Done alot of your ideas man. Thank you for what you do.
Looks good man have to do my 96 yukon
Keep in Mind sir that a lot of the sound in these models also comes in through the door jams so I would advise you to look into upgrading the door jam seals thank me later
I agree. I have a 97 crewcab c3500. Sometimes I think a door isn’t shut all the way, but it’s just worn out door seals.
Trdbrglr I had a 98 Sierra same thing
Good vlog, very interesting product. 'Quieter' is most definitely a word, Mr Patton 6:04
Try using the no skid rubber matting you use in your tool box and for the back maybe a truck rubber bed mat cut to size! No need to thank me for the info, glad to help! 😁
Great job on the install Jimmy! I wish I would've thought about some type of sound deadener/additional insulation when I had the carpet out of my 01 Silverado for a deep cleaning, tho it's still leaps and bounds quieter than my 90 c1500.
Great video!
Quieter is a word 😊 you’re all good
Now you need to do the roof with thicker mat or double the mat.
YOU SHOULD DO THE HEAD LINEAR, IT WILL MAKE A LOT OF DIFFERENCE AND KEEPS THE HEAT OUT... I SAW WHAT YOU DID WITH THE DOOR AND BOTTOM OF THE CAR... BUT IF YOU WANT TO MAKE IT MORE QUIET, ADD SOUND FOAM TO REDUCE THE VIBRATION ON YOUR PLASTIC DOOR PANELS AND ANYTHING YOU CAN REMOVE.. MAKES A LOT OF DIFFERENCE.
It’s time to do the roof... it’s sounds hard but the will make a huge difference!
If you want it quieter you could try using some of the noico brand closed cell foam. They have a few different thickness. I used the 150mil and 315mil. I used the 315 in places where my exhaust are due to drone and the 150 on everything else. It is just installed on top of the butyl deadener you already installed.
Thanks for the tip!
We have sprayed a rubberized undercoat under the vehicle and it has changed the sound difference drastically in our older vehicles
Really? Okay. Like Rhino Liner ??
How much/what did you cover/spray?
What exactly was the product you used
We have tried every product rhino lining is most expensive and about 10mm or under 1/8 thick a dime thickness size and works well as it's a buffer there are many rattle spray can similar like products that can be sprayers in multipal layered a dime thinckness. The rhino lining coat over $125.00 to $150.00 sprayed and larger trucks were more obviously square foot more lol lol
There are DIY spray bed liner which is great as it's thicker and cheaper. In certain instances we even just sprayed as much area as we could when we did not have a open hoist to get bigger units on. We just got vehicle up as high as we could and rattle canned spray bed liner in the large areas where the noise resonates like a drum on open metal
Sorry all product square footage was different so follow can instructions for coverage area but we deducted area due to you want a thicker coverage in the large areas
We have also sprayed under headliners or on Vans sprayer the whole outside roof with bed liners and it definately keeps vehicle cooler in summer and warmer in winter less noise also engine fire wall also on the larger areas we even sprayed a thicker strip or two to act like a stiffening band running like racing stripes painted on Mustangs lol lol or cobras the extra thick ban stops flex in the metal so less noise
Did this in my Jeep XJ, I've got a video on it, great product!
The Roof, sides and doors now. I did my Tahoe some years ago. Very 👌 👋
It's a hell of a lot easier just to put a stock exhaust system back on there and put on some tires that won't make all kinds of road noise. Sound deadening is great but it's going to be the biggest pain in the butt option for getting rid of unwanted sound in the cab. Also every square inch that isn't covered reduces the amount of sound blocked out, that includes all the way up the firewall, the roof, the doors, every square inch of metal inside the vehicle that isn't glass. That is the ONLY way sound deadening will give you good results. Most vehicles can expect 6 to 8 decibel drop in sound if you do it right. If you only got 2 that means you didn't put that mat everywhere it needs to go.
I worked for a couple of years installing car audio equipment and the most sure fire way to make sure sound deadening material doesn't work properly is to only put it on the floor. Can't tell you how many vehicles I pulled back apart because the owner initially didn't want to fully cover the interior. So they paid for the floor to be done and were extremely unhappy with the results.
Just some friendly advice but if you are going to do something and make a video about it at least make an effort to do it right. By right I mean use the product the way the manufacturer designed it to be used. Sound deadening mats are only effective if you give the interior of the vehicle complete coverage. It's expensive and you have to completely remove the dash on some vehicles to get it done. I promise you if you completely cover it and leave even a couple of square inches that were "hard to get to" uncovered you lose a good amount of that sound deadening you spent all that time, money, and effort to install.
If you don't believe me just call any reputable car audio shop and they will tell you that you won't get good results unless you get complete coverage of every surface that isn't glass. I appreciate what you are trying to do but there are already plenty of videos on youtube showing people how to do things the wrong way.
Now you need to do the doors and ceiling
Regardless it does help, however there's not much we can do to kill all the road noise like today's vehicle. Vehicles are built with different materials today, then they were then. I enjoy your channel, and your videos. Keep it up Jimmy.
If you have some extra do the rear doors and rear panels left and right of the cargo area. I’ve had those specifically apart and there is zero insulation
Art I do plan on doing the rear doors. How difficult is taking those two cargo area panels apart?
1ROAD not hard at all. Just a few screws and they should pop off
You can always put a heat shield between the muffler and the body as well!
As for the exhaust , make sure everything is solidly clamped or welded at the connecting spots , and check for solid mounting and no loose ore broken baffles in the muffler or loose heat shields
The sound deadening type of product you used reduces vibrational noise. It only requires about 25% coverage on big panels to be effective and I believe anything over 50% coverage has quickly diminishing returns (100% coverage on the deadener is a common mistake). If you want quiet, you need 100% coverage from a Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) sound blocking material or sound absorbing material. The massive sheet of metal that is your roof will greatly benefit from the Kilmat though.
Nice videos, how many boxes of Kilmer did you use in your suburban?
Those of us who don't own a truck can now go about our business as normal but sound in the knowledge that if we did, this would be an option.
You should get a cordless 3/8 ratchet from harbor freight. I love mine for working on my suburban.
make sure you cover the rear wheel wells, rear quarters, tailgate, and rear doors. and don't forget the pillars between the doors and roof. the more coverage the better the deadening will be .
Hi Jimmy,
A quick question: My rear right upper seat won't fold down. I can fold up bottom one to unlock the upper seat with steal wire but it is not working. I guess it is stuck inside. How can I see the locker inside the seat and release the locker? Thx.
Got to do the rear doors and gate next. You get a lot of noise from the gate alone
Thanks for the video! Did you turn on the radio and see if you heard a difference in the quality of the music? Or, take a little trip with your wife and see if the conversation volume is better? Just some ideas. :)
Have a great one!!
Good ideas!
Just curious. What would be the total added weight of all that material? Thanks Jimmy.
I got it, thanks for telling us the product is crap.. I guess I'll have to drive my hoopty car loud. Lol
Can you not add the sound matting in the under-body of the car. Will it not bounce and block the sound coming of the road/tires?
All this wprk on your truck, bout time to imvest in a battrty powered ratchet wrench.
Like your Hoyt hat
Me too brother
After spraying that alcohol did you need a break to go on?
Now you appreciate factory assembly line work.
what this product does is, in fact, cutting the resonants where the human ear is most susceptible, and this is the goal here. It removes most of the vibration that road or engine noise transfers to the thin metal sheets. The decibel meter is not that capable to tell the difference because it measures throughout the whole spectrum, but our ears are more sensitive to mid frequencies where sound deadening material aims. You could have done the wheel wells too IMO, good job though.
Ive been following this channel.. i wish i could do this to my truck soon.. does it feel heavy?? I was told that installing sound deadening makes everything heavy soecially doors
You don't like loud exhaust? Could have fooled me. You can get a nice low tone and free flow without the rumble you have. "Borla"
Did you do the rear doors like you did the front?
Let's finish the rest. We want to see it.
How much of the three boxes did you use on the entire suburban?
Should have went with NVX brand from Sonic Electronic & you need to do the roof will help out a lot
You could change your windows, some cars have triple layers side windows, with rubber seals arround the hood. It could help
I have single 4" open exhaust on a supercharged 350. I need a muffler at some point. She's deafening with the passenger window down.
Next video - front roof, next video rear roof, next - mid roof. Next front pillar, next mid pillar, rear pillar. Engine bay, next - firewall, continue...
Haha
@@1RoadGarage and you still stay with rear door and passenger doors for back! I positively shocked how many videos you can get from 1 truck. That is nice!
My question is, who makes the best sound deadening material? Looking to do my trunk, so my subs don't rattle it. As is my system sounds good inside, but bad outside due to trunk lid etc vibrating. First time doing anything like this, anyone got any tips or suggestions? Doing it on an 09 Mustang.
Quieter is indeed a word
You should of did the wheel wells and the roof. You’ll notice a helluva difference
Get some mass loaded vinyl! It’ll get rid of a lot of airborne noise
Man you need to use the killmat on the inside of the wheels cover and used in the roof and under the hood after that buy some wind nose rubber please do it it will take more than 15db of noise try it
MLV on the floor and air-seal the doors with adhesive closed cell foam. It's what the pros do.
Could’ve taken some thick mil aluminum or tin foil and 3m spray adhesive it down before the killMat over the muffler area.
Next: Walls and ceiling!
What about inside your door panels
with the rear seats going out the back may have been easier or just leave them in the truck as cargo.
Where did you get the roller from and do you have a lint to the sound mat?
The roller I bought from Amazon. All links are in the description of the video. Thanks for watching! 👍👍
Thanks
I’d say finish the job, change the muffler to the OE one, and install some expensive aftermarket speakers 🔊
The exhaust might be more quite if you did the Rear hatch.
Wait, isn't the muffler on this aftermarket? I thought you had a Flowmaster 50 on there? So, in hindsight, are you saying you wish you didn't change the muffler?
Michael White I had to change the muffler because the stock muff fell apart. The only one the exhaust shop had was a flow master. I said weld it up.. it’s not super loud. Just much louder than stock. I really wish there was an option out there for high flow silent mufflers.
Ah I see I didn't know about the high flow muffler. I was like man, stock these things aren't even noisy. They sound great stock actually. I was like why is this guy soundproofing his truck? I lived in my 03 5.3 z71 Tahoe for 6-7 months with my dog while I was welding on ship yards and driving out to the mountains, rolling out to lake or ocean side or even a comfy Walmart parking lot to at night. Trust me when I tell you I've slept VERY peacefully over my running engine after waking up to turn my truck over and throw the heater on full blast. Best sleep you'll ever get! The ever so peaceful bub bub bub bub bub will very gently rock you straight back into dreamland. The sweltering heat you wake up to will make you glad you took the time to crack your sunroof and walk out pop your rear access window open before you decided really call it a night. Throw something like a water bottle in between it and the latch after you push the window open and turn off the truck, then enjoy your perfectly climate controlled bed. If you guys can't tell.. I miss living in my truck! 😭😭😭😭 Having a normal apartment life and being comfortable with a stable tech job is a huge blessing and something to be thankful for but still muy no bueno.
@@1RoadGarage turbo mufflers
@@1RoadGarage Install a resonator on tailpipe to quiet exhaust. There are other products for further sound insulating the interior, a closed cell foam for behind plastic panels, in wheel liners, etc...
welp, at the very least your burb will rattle alittle less if you decide to get a sub. might need to find a quieter muffler? :P
You just didn't put enough material inside your doors. You should cover them as full as possible. Same thing with the headliner and ESPECIALLY the firewall. Softer tires will do the trick too. Floors are raised and the steel is thick enough so you shoulnd't hear that much of a difference but if you soundproof the sides of the car and the firewall, you'll really see a big difference.
The issue is deminishing returns, you could have put 2 inch strips with a 2 inch gap and gotten the same outcome, this would have left you with plenty to put up in the headliner, in the back doors and rear door, on the A,B,C Pillars, the whole are above the rear tires and up inside the front console, the last two being 50% of your incoming engine and tire noise which I noticed you skipped and only delt with the floorboard area,. Another thing to tackle would be changing your muffler and putting back on the factory style one as it was tuned for lower noise, and the last would be isolating rattles, tightening bolts, Tesa Tape wiring harnesses, and putting foam between things that butt together, and a little of that kilmat on the door panels themselves. just tossing out wisdom.
Debating on if I should do this or just bedline the entire floor of my 2000 Suburban. Anyone have any input?
me personally I would just buy the rubber floor replacement I think lmc truck sells it. its less permanent that way
@@jacobcaldwell5521 Ah very interesting, I had no idea something like that existed. Thanks for the tip!
Use rubberized undercoat in the wheel wells also!
Oh yeah!.....drop the gas tank and spray rubberized undercoat on the body where the tank goes and the gas tank (bottom side to block the heat from the ground in the summer).
@@therajuncajun6487 Nope, already dropped the tank in my dirt driveway to change out the fuel pump and I aint doin that again! Plus im not a fan of rubberized undercoating, I use Rust-Oleum rust reformer primer and flat black paint and it seems to work better 👍
Time for wheel wells. And headliner.
Puts loud muffler on and then quiets the seat area with deadener? smh..... Another goofy upgrade.
Quieter is a word
I have driven brand new Cadillac vehicles and I prefer my 99 suburban ride quality and handling over the Cadillac xt5 and sts vehicles.
If I had to pay for the product, no. If it was free to me, yes, I would take the time and install it. Why not?
You need to go back to the GM OE muffler (if available) that will probably make a difference.
Install this stuff on the inside of your roof
Where ear protection when you drive, problem fixed lol