I think another thing people want is a guitar finish that will wear over time. It sounds counter-intuitive but when you see your idols playing a 30 year old guitar with paint missing it just feels like they put part of their soul into it. I don't like buying pre-worn (relic'd) guitars and I've never owned a nitro finished guitar, but I think it would be cool to have a guitar that the finish ages, even if it just fades or changes color. Thanks for all the awesome videos!
Synthetic coatings are cool, and sometimes, depending on the finish, it's all you can use. But nitro has ONE thing above all of them that, to me, makes it a VERY valid finish still: it "burns back" for the ultimate in repairability.
@@flowryan5829 It means that it melts back into and blends with the previous coats. This makes lacquer very repairable, often invisibly. Synthetics do NOT do this. This makes invisible finish repair often nearly impossible.
Been in chem applications for a long time; boats, cars, custom woodwork, everything from Belzona on jet pumps to mixing shellacs. Old school finishes are like old school anything, sure their modern counterparts are more advanced and better in a lot of ways, but some people like the look, feel, and old school stuff. One of my favorite cars I've owned was a classic with lacquer, and I loved buffing it out once a month, and the results that it gave. Had a look no 14 part clear coat could ever have, and easy to repair if needed. Not to say I'd want to buy a new Tundra with lacquer, but for something old school it fit. I feel the same with guitars. I don't need the coating to last 120 years. That said, I do like poly, I like varnish, I like mixing the two, etc. They all have their merit and place... Liked watching your spray technique on the corners. Very cool,,, and nice burst on the neck.
Here's why. Nitro advantages: low toxicity. Beautiful finish. Easy to tint, long open time, can be made opaque or transparent, can be hand rubbed to a marvelous deep gloss, and most importantly it can be repaired, if a fly gets in it while wet or if it gets chipped 20 years later it's easy.. very easy to repair and be made to look perfect. I've used it for years and I love it. Now just trying to learn how to tint poly clear for a transparent color but I'm not finding much information on it yet. I might have to completely refinish this Epi I'm working on because it has a damaged area.. and poly can't be repaired.
I like it also, I have some that I sprayed 20 years ago and they haven’t yellowed, or deteriorated at all. Only thing is I wish it was a harder finish.
Repair. Repair is the reason. I spray mostly acrylic lacquers with a crosslinker additive, and it's surprisingly tough and moisture resistant, but I don't do it on anything I expect to repair. Flow with various finishes is the only thing I've ever had an issue with. Some of the WB acrylic lacquers don't flow that well, and they have pretty strict guidelines on how much you can thin them. Not something you can't work out. wouldn't be surprised to find that the crosslinker in many of these otherwise relatively harmless finishes is toxic and harmful in the long run,, but admit I haven't sprayed an instrument with them due to how hard of a finish it makes (afraid it would crack and chip easily). You can spray the acrylic in a garage without any explosion issues, though, and anything left in the air just settles as dust.
First let me say that I really like your channel. as to nitrocellulose lacquer, I think it looks better than poly. That is why Gibson and PRS use nitro.
I have guitars with Nitro and some with Poly, My nitro guitars are older and Id say they held up pretty well still no checking or breaking up of the finish, Even where my arm sets no wear. I think Nitro is easier to work with . Good video but I guess we all have our own preferences but for no other reason I like nitro better.
We do, but I don't think the millenials will care. At some point, the market isn't going to care much about nitro or no nitro, they'll just want something that looks good and lasts. I'm sure that every year, that segment (the people who don't care if it's nitro) gets bigger and bigger.
You have to admit that it looks really cool and has character after many years. I love Vince Gill's 50's telecaster that has authentic wear and just looks and sounds amazing.
@@daw162 what the hell are you talking about? You do know that the Hipsters and their love or even obsession with vintage stuff such as vintage Instruments is a purely millennial thing, right? Try giving one of those guys a polyurethane coated Les Paul. I dare you. So that‘s that. And even if you‘re not a hipster, you can enjoy the superb feel if nitro coated guitar and the aging of it. I‘m born in 1990 and I‘m a sucker for natural nitro cracks on guitars. Poly is cool and all but nitro just feels and looks more sophisticated.
You know what my favorite finish is? The one the customer wants to pay for :) Personally I'm decidedly not a fan of the "feel" of acrylic /poly. But to each their own. There's nothing wrong with being capable of working with multiple mediums.
Correct as it feels like plastic to me as well. Not a fan of acrylic as the feel of the instrument is just as important as anything else. Nitro holds up just fine and more importantly feels much nicer. Yes it takes some skill and is much more time consuming to work with but it is worth it in the end for a instrument that does not feel like a plastic toy! Just my preference...
Im in the process of a full restore of a 1980 sg I'm using Nitro, just because it was Nitro, I hate the waiting and wet sanding time. I've used automotive poly finishes before and love the results. A cool thing about automotive finish is. Its easy to get some nice fender colors. ex.surf green.In the 50's GM actually adopted the colors from fender. I went to the auto paint supplier we picked out the color and when the label was printed out it said Fender guitar Company surf green. If anyone wants the Paint code I'll repost it here. Thanks for the Video
That's been our experience as well. a bewildering selection of colors and finish styles. That is pretty neat that you got a Fender color. Stay tuned because we are going to do lots lots more videos about this. If I can get the crusty old dude at Finish Master to be in a video I will
Yep I spray nitro out of habit can’t get out of my comfort zone. Could you tell what type of finish is it that your using ? Great video maybe come at the right time for me. Thanks again Texas Toast crew !
Hi Andrew, We were long time hold outs too. switched paints when we did the 400 dollar guitars for Doug Kauer's thing. I ain't going to lie... there was a learning curve. Having said that I can not see a reason to ever spray lacquer again. Of course, we do not do any repair work so it is a pretty easy thing to say never about. We are going to do lots more videos on paint and paint gear. Keep the questions coming, we will answer them on the videos, sound okay?
I was thinking the same thing myself, so what is the product? Seems to be a little run around and confusing. But there’s another video in which they do spray acrylic lacquer. It’s the modern version. It’s waterbase
I think it's more about tradition than buzz word, not to mention depending on whether it's a solid color, burst, fade, 2 tone, etc makes a difference (visually) too. Its also a matter of opinion on what people like. You can see depth differences in all 3. Not to mention, it's the easiest way to tell if an Gibson LP is a fake or real. (The one guitar that should be refinished traditionally). I still seeing old guitars that are french polished by the older luthiers. The process is just awesome to watch.
I will hold my questions for your painting videos. Chris, we see you with Matt doing videos, it is nice to see you doing your thang also! Painting videos will be a tremendous help for those who need to know. I too can learn new things! I Ike Truoil and water borne poly. I look forward to what you guys use. I agree with the "Don't do anything in between coats. Prep+good venting, that's the ticket! The real protection you can put on your gee-tar is don't drop it, don't scratch it, don't wear abrasive clothes or belt buckles! Threat it like a new born baby! That's what cases were made for! Even $100 guitars are worth a good, study case. Love your channel! Thanxz
Thanks my friend, at this point, however, we will not be doing any more finish videos. We may be able to start up again in the future but the owner of the spray booth we are using has requested that we do no filming or photography in his booth. We have to respect that
@@TexasToastGuitars I want to ask a fair question, and I'm not trolling you. I respect the work you do, and the "old school" craftsmanship you do. Why do all the other stuff old school, and not do the old school finish? Go all the way man.
Viscosity. It's about viscosity. Poly has a high viscosity when it's in liquid form. Nitro lacquer has low viscosity. When poky dries it drives thick and it's basically like acrylic glass. The problem is that it's a resonance deadening effect. Because lacquer is very thin and hard and inflexible it is not a deadening affect for the woods resonance. It doesn't smother the surface and choke it's resonance. Plus, nitro finish gets harder and thinner over time. And it cracks, proving that it doesn't affect the woods resonance because the cracking of the finish is due to the wood continuing to dry and fluctuations in the heat and humidity make it swell and contract And the resonance in the wood also promotes the cracking. So, it's more about viscosity. The thick and plastic like quality of poly finish does effect resonance and tone. Nitro lacquer is thin and it's hard and it's more brittle with age. Poly finish tends to reduce sustain and it's tone is brighter. A nitro finish or even a bare wood body and neck tend to have better sustain. Buts it's also darker in tone and has less highs and more lows. I've stripped so many poly strats and everytime that is the effect. Poly does better protect the wood from the seams cracking and spitting apart. If your strat is too dark, removing the poly will just darken it further. If your strat is too bright, removing the poly and replacing the finish with nitro or an oil finish is a good way to warm it up and darken the tone. It's all a complicated equation as to whether someone prefers poly or an alternative. Nitro doesn't suck. Poly is much easier and cheaper for people to work with to make a nice looking instrument and without worry of minor damage before the customer receive the product. If the guitar is smothered in plexiglass then it's much easier to keep in new condition. So I kinda feel like you have a business interest in convincing people that poly is awesome and nitro sucks. Pepsi challenge: take two crash symbols and spray one with two coats of poly. The other spray two coats of nitro lacquer on it. When they cure test the effect it has on the resonance and see if the nitro covered one still sounds kinda like it did before you sprayed it. I'm confident that the poly one will be much quieter and not have much of a "crash" sound when it's tested. Viscosity
And.... I should mention that some guitar.body woods sound better with the poly finish left on it. Example: basswood sucks without poly finish. It's loses all it's high end and it's way too bass heavy. Plywood bodies tend to sound better with poly and so does pine. It the wood is too soft then it actually could use the poly finish to help tighten up it's higher end frequency range. So it's not a black or white issue and it don't mean to start shit with anyone. And if you have a poly finish that is left bare under the pickguard (like the PRS silver.sky) and.in the trem rout and the jack cavity, it will actually help to balance the resonance enough to give a happy medium. I think poplar is best this way. But I think alder and ash are better sounding with lacquer or oil or bare. That asian mahogany substitute, okoume, or whatever it's called is kinda bright but oil or nitro finish helps to balance the tone and it sounds great that way. But it's not a clear cut situation. And tone is not in the fingers... it's in the soul. And the feel of the guitar and it's tone affects my soul and commands my fingers to play better. BTW, birds are a hoax. They don't really exist. Flying critters? Don't be a fool.
When we were painting custom fleet vans . Lacquer was the only system . You'd start with bonding clear then your base coat tint coat then your clear coat the repairs were simple but the overall lasting of the work was good for 3years outdoor . The cureing of the clear coat was worse then the lacquer . I can't get around paint without getting sick .
@@TexasToastGuitars I love it, I buy the real stuff, the flakes that you have to dissolve in de-natured alcohol. As luck would have it, there is a guy not far from me, who cultivates the flakes.
I searched "polyurethane paint guitar," and 75% of the videos were of a guy named Brad not telling me how to paint a guitar with polyurethane paint. You gave me more useful information in one video and answered many questions. I also know that the wood stopped "breathing" after being chopped, cut, kilned, and sealed. I want a finish that works, not one that fails.
I've got a cheeeeap kit guitar with a flame maple veneer that's thinner than a dry fart so I felt I needed a poly lacquer because any wear will wipe that veneer away and look even worse.
Always crazy to me people thought it changes your tone. I like nitro because of the aspect of it not looking perfect forever. Poly finishes are just too hard and thick for my likening (that’s what she and I said)
I look at lacquer as a benchmark for quality if you're going to be paying the high dollar for the guitar The instrument should be sprayed in lacquer but that's just my opinion and they vary
We have lots more on this topic coming your way. The plan is to deep dive into the paint theory and equipment. Some will be preaching and some will be more informative but they will be loaded with the good stuff kids go for. My plan is to answer all the questions that come up and encourage some interaction. Stay tuned.
Poly won’t break it’s a way more sustainable finish, it’s a lot cheaper, looks great and feels great. Nitro will break but only if you expose it to drastic temperature changes or ding it. It’s applied thinner and it feels better to play with. I think nitro is expensive but it looks, and feels better hence making me play better.
Hi Nathan, Modern paints might seem magical but, in reality, they are, simply, the product of research and development. We are going to do lots more videos on the topic of paint and paint accessories... to include the reducer and hardener for use in various conditions We will try and answer all the questions in the future videos. Stay tuned
Awesome, looking forward to hearing. Dad's tele is ready to paint. My boy's matching lefty mini-tele has templates ready and we're fixing to join, plane and glue up in the next couple weeks.
Nathan, I've sprayed stew mac and target finishes and never had an issue with blushing. They're a little cool looking with a high build coat, but they're water and don't seem to mind humidity that much (I spray in a relatively high-humidity room that I don't - and won't - control humidity unless I have to. ). I agree with the comments above (I usually spray furniture, though), you set aside your time and get your coats on all at once within a day and over a day or two, the finish is completely cured, and you're done. Whatever the conditions are, it seems to turn out fine as long as you don't get greedy and lay it on thick enough to have bubbles. It doesn't look good while you're spraying it (never really looks wet), but dries nice.
I have heard the ‘breathe’ thing applied to a nitro finish for years. I think it stemmed from the thick polys that actually do ‘suffocate’ a guitar. I have stripped poly finishes on several basses and replaced with nitro, and it has resulted in improved resonance. Hopefully this helps explain where that came from. Any thinly coated finish should be better than the poly crap that chokes off the natural resonance of the instrument.
I lost 3 friends in a 5yr period to cancer. The one thing they had in common, they all shot Nitro. It's dangerous as all hell. A guitar needs a finish and nitro is a bad idea, but it's a buzz word, it's in everyone's head. It's 2018 fer chrissakes.
No problem, this all happened in the mid 90's. They died in their late 50's from the same cancer, it was obvious what caused it. The stuff is really poisonous, even if you're not breathing it, it absorbs through your skin. I've been doing this since '78. I'm a lefty player and the only way of getting a decent guitar was to build it myself. I've built myself a good 50 guitars of all types. I turned it into a career that's lasted 40yrs. I think you are building fantastic guitars that don't break the bank. Every player should have at least one instrument custom built to their specs
Fred Garvin of course lacquer isn’t nearly as nasty as the modern 2k urethane stuff. Isocyanates will screw you up really fast. I know guys in their 30’s permanently disabled from not being careful.
Sorry to hear about your buddies I'm probably in the same boat as them as far as painting is concerned.the stuff being sprayed these days is much worse for you than lacure ever dreamed of. Yes I was one of them that thought I was tuff erics than every one else.im hear to tell you and everyone they don't put warnings on the cans because they want to be nice.
Could you fill me in on the actual finish you guys are using ? I’d be open to getting out of my rut if I new what alternative finish I could rely on. Many Thanks!
This has been coming up a lot We have lots more on this topic coming your way. The plan is to deep dive into the paint theory and equipment. Stay tuned.
Glad I watched this. I've been looking for a new matte finish for my speaker cabinets. I was leaning heavily towards lacquer. Guess I'll stick to automotive finishes or black poly.
@@TexasToastGuitars i'm really confused. Are you painting your guitars with nitro? and nitro is not as good as acrylic laquer? I want to paint some cloned scmidt array pedal boards. I started with single stage urethane....not fun, lots of work.
I have never liked lacquer. I have a guitar neck I've repaired, it had lacquer on the headstock with I've sanded off, but some still remains. Can I spray poly ontop ?
@@TexasToastGuitars I did but I'm not an expert thats why I asked a question on what is supposed to be an informative video. You don't have to be rude. Unsubscribing.
Two points I want to add; nitro is fairly easy to level and buff out. People like that. But that same softness makes it wear off faster. And... wood doesn’t breathe!! It’s dead. And for the people that say it allows moisture to escape, it doesn’t. And if it did it would also allow moisture back in. Finish has no effect on the tone of electric guitars.
Yes I am still using nitrocellulose. Why? Because I don't have any spray equipment. I use rattle cans. All the rattle can spray paint I have tried either bubbled, didn't cover or never dried. Most likely my technique. Nitro cans didn't have these problems.
@@TexasToastGuitars Plus it's much much prettier. Smells, looks and feels better. Surprised I have to big-up the obvious sensory superiority of nitro over poly to a company named "Texas Toast". You're videos are great. Putting in some real time on doing this work. Mostly watching you guys and Dan Erlewine to get up to speed. Thanks again.
Isaac Adcock Love tung oil as a fingerboard treatment for fretless or fretboards. I did my SG a couple months ago. Don’t know if I’d dig a neck-full - the smell isn’t my favorite.
Few have the ears to differentiate between compounds. If they can they didn't hit too many ACDC, Maiden and Slayer concerts in the 80's and missed the point entirely. Where nitro lacquer leaves the others at the curb is look and feel.
I don't even like the way lacquer looks anymore. I know I'm in the minority. Yeah, I don't think anyone in the audience who is three beers in will be able to tell the difference between guitar finish.
Because it's a bitch-and-a-half to scrape an entire guitar, and if you fuck up you have to repair the stain you just scraped or gouge you just made. It's one of those 'do it if you're confident' things, otherwise just mask it off, lol
I can't see any advantage in using nitro lacquer, to me it doesn't feel much different to poly finished guitars. I have two nitro painted Fenders, the Jazzmaster I bought new, the other is a 7 year old used Tele. The Tele is a complete case queen, it looks like the previous owner was terrified of harming the finish, there's hardly a mark on it. Maybe in ten years time when the guitars have genuine playing wear (I'm not a fan of the relic thing) and feel like vintage guitars, it will have paid off.
Thanks for this important clip. The reason I use Nitro is because it goes on thin and hard. I would think that that would contribute to the guitar's sensitivity. Is this true?
We believe that the thickness of the finish is more important than the material. If you like nitrocellulose or acrylic lacquer you should keep using it
@@TexasToastGuitars One advantage to nitro is repairability. It is wonderfully repairable. Amalgamator (butyl cellosolve) is your friend. I won't say it necessarily sounds better. The classical guitar guys insist on French Polishing, if it makes them happy so be it. Acrylic lacquer can be beautiful but it takes forever to dry. The EPA has forced the kustom car guys into systems that do not lend themselves to our purposes as well as the older systems IMO. You might look at aircraft suppliers because they still have a few materials automotive doesn't. The really great products like Rand-O-Strip are sadly history though.
The re thing is most poly fishes are just 2 thick and people feel its sticky. You can always do a satin finish on the neck. The best thing about nitro finishes is they kinda smell like popvorn
@@TexasToastGuitars polyurethane and polyester are fairly different products. I’m interested in the UV curing polyester finishes - apparently they can be very thin and still really tough. The worst things about nitro are 1) it’s literally explosive, 2) it’s really toxic, 3) it off-gasses for a l-o-n-g time.
how well venitlated is the area? wat are your specs? fish eye is a big problem and sanding down to it takes lots of clear out, i use ppg d8294 some of the best clear ive used, great work btw
Thanks for watching Adrian. We are going to do lots more videos on this topic. Some are going to be more preachy than others but it will be a deep dive. We will answer all the questions as they come up
Hmmm I have heard about some issues getting things outside of the US. We have lots more on this topic coming your way. The plan is to deep dive into the paint theory and equipment. My plan is to answer all the questions that come up and encourage some interaction. Stay tuned.
@@swingset1969 I'm not arguing what finish is better. It's all subjective really. I build vintage style guitars with aged lacquer finishes. That's just what I get the most requests for and what I'm able to sell. I personally like to see fretboard and neck wear over time because I love vintage guitars. I love the way Clapton's blackie aged over time. I don't know of another finish that will show that wear...Also don't need to use hardeners, retardants, or have to measure precisely when mixing and spraying either. I can usually just eyeball it, and get what I want.
It's about time I've seen a paint job on a guitar or anything on youtube that I ager with absolutely. I get so tired of seeing people without any painting background tell and showing everyone the wrong way to do a paint job. If there is a big chunk of dirt in the basecoat wait till the end letting it dry enough to sand than sand the nib only and than put enough paint over thar area to hide the sanding than clear it period.....
Hahaha Chris and I never cease to be amazed at the stuff people do (or say they do) on line and in forums. I generally don't look at forums but the information super highway is sometimes a disinformation dirt path.
Texas Toast Guitars I'll go along with that.can you image trying to do a complete repaint jambs included on an old say72 Deville the way there trying to tell you how to paint a simple guitar.😨 it would take them a year or more.
Hey what pressure do you typically shoot your solid colors at? I know you guys said you shoot between 23-30 on the Simtech but what about paint? Clear coat?
Well, wait... the pressures are different from paint to paint, gun to gun and day to day. You should never just set it and forget it. Check with the paint manufacturers and then adjust as you go. The amount of reducer, supply air temp etc. will mean that you need to adjust stuff when you start and adjust until it is right. It sounds like a lot and it is but once you get good at it things will be second nature
So we shouldn't use nitro and i'd love to change to something harder but you never said what you are using. I thought maybe it would be the description but alas. I really am curious as to what you use.
Hi Dane, My elaborate trap is working.. We are going to do lots more videos on this topic. Some are going to be more informative than others and some will be loaded with the good stuff kids go for. My plan is to answer all the questions in videos and encourage some interaction. Stay tuned, sound good?
I found another of your vids, sunburst #2 I think, DBC500. I'm checkin it out and looking forward to more vids on this topic. I stopped using it for a time and went to oil finishes but have never been happy with the results. The grain or colors really pop under a gloss finish.
Disclaimer: I'm just getting into painting. I don't even have a 240v compressor or a true spray room. I have felt a bit of pressure to use lacquer on guitar bodies. I'm just doing this stuff for fun and I neither want to use lacquer from a toxicity point of view, nor do I want to deal with endless coats of the stuff. Thank you for helping me come to a decision and avoid nitrocellulose.
How about its reworkability/ ease of touch up and repairs? Ease of polishing/buffing. Initial dry time. Etc etc etc. Is it the best option always? No of course not. But its not as terrible as you're making it out to be.
I've got a Fender neck with a Nitro finish that's constantly sticky. I've tried to be more careful to keep solvent cleaners away from it but I think the damage has already been done. The thing is the neck is almost new and the frets are perfect - do you think it's possible to strip and recoat a neck properly without doing a re-fret?
I learned finish application working in a body shop. Lacquer is awful, and I wouldn't use it if my life depended on it (and in a way, it does). It has NO advantages over base/clear, none.
I painted my guitar with nitro because nitro's cool, nitro sounds better, right ? Six weeks later and my guitar still smells. So use nitro if you want to wait 3-6 months for your guitar to cure. By the way my poly strat sounds incredible.
I have no idea... we use a urethane clear. We have lots more on this topic coming your way. The plan is to deep dive into the paint theory and equipment. My plan is to answer all the questions that come up and encourage some interaction. Stay tuned.
I've had good luck with target em6000, as well as the stuff that stew mac sells (haven't checked stew mac in a while, but figure it's probably more expensive than other sources, because that's just the way they roll).
Nitro feels different, sounds different and wears different. My opinion, all that matters really when it comes to all things guitar. I get your points, all valid but I really like nitro. No biggie.
I’ve been playing guitar since I was 12… I’m 42, I’ve worked in guitar repair, and played probably a few thousand guitars… in my experience, poly guitars CAN sound good, but they take forever to really feel “broken in.” Nitro guitars lose their luster quickly , but usually the instrument resonates extremely well within a couple months, thus being way more inspiring to play much sooner than a poly guitar . And the poly guitar sometimes will never feel inspiring… if you ask any seasoned player they’ll usually tell you the same…
There is a reason that mass production uses poly finishes. Easier and faster to work with and it is more durable. If you want a relic guitar, go nitro. You're going to pay for the upgrade as it is labor intensive and harder to work, but the fact that it sucks as a finish is actually what you are looking for.
Nitro is the industry standard for most wood finishes. It just plain looks better and it's easier to work with than poly depending on what you're going for. If you want that sunkin into the grain look nitro is easy. If you want a super thick glossy nitro it takes a lot more coats but will look so friggen amazing when you do it right and your fuck ups are much more fixable on lacquer than poly. Besides that checking looks friggen cool. My problem with lacquer is it gets sticky when you play at first but if you play a lot it wares in fast. After that you'll have a hell of a time going back.
@@SixString_J5 I'm not talking about guitars specifically. I'm talking about most fine wood furniture and the like. And all the TOP boutique brands use nitro if they can. Most mass produced brands can't because you had to be grandfathered in to spray nitro on a mass commercial scale in the U.S. especially in California where the dirt gives you cancer and there are only a few companies that were. Fender being one. Jackson is another not that it matters since they're the same damn company. My custom u.s.a charvel has a nitro finish too. If you spend big money you get nitro. It just looks better. Takes more care to keep nice but a lot of people like relics and if checking happens organically then so much the better. Obviously it does nothing for tone but the nostalgia effect drives the boutique and custom shop market so the highest end guitars on the market are mostly nitro. Poly is more durable and it's cheaper because it's less labour intensive to apply. Another reason why it's the industry norm. But not the "standard". Besides. Playing a gloss poly neck is like wanking with pomade. Please excuse the long winded response. I'm in an altered state of consciousness. Lol.
This is a tricky part of the guitar game. Back in the old days we only did oil finishes and tried to show off as much wood as possible. People didn't always appreciate this and asked for cool colors and fancy paint work. Sorry to hear that you don't like painted alder
@@duderama6750 Well... I would also prefer to have bass and guitar on one neck like a Chapman stick if i woulf play such thing instead of 2 necks but some ppl just like it this way i guess...
I believe a guitar should look age appropriate as the years go by. You can't get that with poly. A Poly guitar will look the same a million years from now, left out in the open in all the elements. On the one hand that's admirable, and has it's uses. I just don't like it on a guitar. The other thing is you guys seem to be heavily invested in building guitars the "old-school" way, but refuse to finish them the "old school" way, I know humans are complicated, but that takes the cake. The last thing is when Nitro people say it lets the guitar "breathe" we don't mean that literally, we know wood is dead, and can't "breathe" what we mean is wood expands, and contracts via atmospheric changes, and the time of year, etc. I'd like to go out by saying I don't personally care if you want to paint your guitars using ketchup, or mustard, or BBQ sauce, that's your decision. Whatever your preference is, is what you should have in a free country. You guys to great work, make good looking guitars, i'd just be nice if you offered a Nitro option to go with the other "old school" methods...Hell, even branch out and offer a real French polish finish if someone is willing to pay.
We talk very specifically about what we use in this video. I think it is strange that you read this title and assume I owe you some kind of explanation.
laquer was cool for certain things, and it was idiot proof, new stuff is alot more durable, but boy is it touchy ,and very thin, i paint cars by the way, and agree with what you say
Nitrocellulose lacquer turns yellow and cracks up. Worst finish there is. Doesn't help tone either. Henry Ford used it because it was cheap and he could get more cars out the door faster.
@@TexasToastGuitars Thank you... is there anything I should watch out for? I paint auto parts with my setup but am totally new to wood and just got a all maple warmoth neck... forgot to order a finish! Kinda cramming trying to figure out what I need to do to get a finish on this neck of some sort.
It's never been about lacquer "breathing". It's about the lacquer finish "resonating" because it's applied thinner. Everyone is entitled to their opinion, but Martin Guitars uses lacquer on their mid and high-end guitars and it's not because they are catering to cork sniffers. The current year $11,000 Martin D-42 is finished with lacquer for a reason. It resonates. Now, we can debate how a finish affects the tone on a "block of wood" style guitar like a Strat or Tele, and the argument will go on for years. But lacquer will resonate and various the poly finishes will encapsulate when applied to a thin spruce top acoustic guitar. The master luthiers at Martin have spoken to this often.
Thanks for watching Humphrey we prefer modern finishes too. We use polyester sealer, enamel colors and urethane clear. In our experience, there is no acoustic advantage to using lacquer that is quantifiable. If people like lacquer because they like lacquer... I get it, second kind of cool.
love the channel thanks for the reply i would like to add one point nitro is made wood so you are spraying wood on wood it has the same properties. modern paints like epoxy or polyester are all by products of oil secondly you mention not to rub down between coats thats all well and good if you can spray flat coats like you can regards
Nitrocellulose is NOT made from wood. The fiberous portion is cotton. And it’s not just dissolved cotton, it’s chemically altered with nitric acid. One of the first plastics was partially nitrated cellulose plasticised with camphor, or potassium nitrate. Plasticised is the key. Nitrocellulose lacquer paint is still plastic, just not very stable plastic. An interesting fact is that most modern Nitrocellulose lacquer is about 5% nitrocellulose, the other 95% is acrylic lacquer. The EPA has strict guidelines on the stuff, and Gibson pays a hefty fine to use the 7% nitro mix they prefer for it’s yellowing and aging characteristics. So, you might be getting the poor wear and aging of the old school nitro, but it’s just as plastic as acrylic lacquer, If you don’t want any “plastic”, use shellac. Ground up bug barf and alcohol make a great guitar finish. Personally, I think plastic is plastic, and the secret is thin coatings.
I’ll also add this. Why would you want to sand down a rough coat of paint 3 or 4 times, instead of just once? Put all the paint on, then sand and buff. That’s the way the big guys did it back in the day. Do you think Fender sanded between every coat? Hell no. I’ve seen Gibson guitars go from the paint booth to the buffer. Also, if you can’t get pretty smooth coats of paint sprayed on, you are doing something wrong, and should look into fixing that issue rather than just accept it and keep doing it the hard way.
bloody hell i must be an idiot just google what wood is made of you will find it is made of two types of cellulose their only two factories in world that make true nitro cellulose paints and they happen to be in china and cotton was seldom used because of the extreme fire risk, it was made mainly from coconut fibre and further more gibson have not used true nitro since 1953 when dupont brought out much safer version NITROCELLULOSE IS MADE FROM WOOD by replacing two carbon atoms with two oxygen atoms using sulphuric acid and nitric acid and wood sprayed with nitro has less tendency to have great movements in its moisture content preventing warping and rotting thats where the term comes, from, allows the wood to breath if you want to make your own shellac let me know
I recently restored/modified a les Paul studio by putting Gibson “custom” binding all around and then I shot it with automotive poly clear. I posted it in a Gibson forum. Imagine how many of those guys are super pissed off?
Texas Toast Guitars I’m curious of your thoughts as a ton of what I did came from what you taught me in your videos. If you have time, check it out. www.mylespaul.com/threads/2003-studio-premium-plus-to-custom.442402/
Timely! My last email to Matt had a question of paint and if you guys could do certain specific House Of Color finishes that involve flake. I plan on following up with neck finish questions, so I think it would be excellent if you guys spoke about the hardness of the finishes you use in the upcoming videos.
Great ideas for the next few videos Mr. E We are going to do lots more videos on the topic of paint and gear to paint with. Some are going to be more preachy than others but it will be a deep dive. We will answer all the questions as they are asked
Texas Toast Guitars Looking forward to it. I used to prefer matte or raw finishes on necks, but recently clayed and waxed a painted neck (USA Jackson) and was blown away. So smooth.
You will break out in a sweat in the middle of winter with a poly coated guitar. Because it does not absorb any sweat at all. The lacquer is more comfortable to play in a non gig setting. Meaning you will sweat with either poly or lacquer under stage lights. But you will sweat much easier with a plastic coated guitar in the middle of winter. So lacquer is just much better in terms of comfort because it is uncured.
@@TexasToastGuitars I don't even know what that means. What I am saying is that lacquer is less likely to cause you to sweat. Because it does not reflect all of the body heat back at you. Because plastic is a better insulator of heat than lacquer.
Acrylic lacquer, not to be confused with nitrocellulose lacquer. Edit: I haven’t a clue on wtf I’m saying. But there’s another video where they share their secret recipe. Where’s Waldo and his recipe?
We do not use lacquer of any kind these days, as far as finishes go and, compared to what is available in the 21st century, it is not a particularly good one. Guitar players are convinced it is awesome and that is cool. If you like something you should not need to provide a reason. While it is true that acrylic lacquer and nitrocellulose are not the same thing they are both, still, lacquer. Sort of like saying creamy peanut butter, not to be confused with chunky.
We have switched to Tamco Paints and clear We also have a friend at Sweet Tea Guitars who has sent us some super cool colors as well. We still use Simtec sealer
The story of guitars throughout the last eighty years has been that "it sucks" is "actually what people want". Guitar amps are not really amplifiers, they are, but primarily they are devices providing EQ, compression, and numerous flavors of distortion. Listen to Les Paul, I mean Les Paul the actual player, that steel guitar like sound is the pure actual electric guitar sound. No one wants that today, except pedal steel players, to a certain extent. Zero frets make the fretted and unfretted notes sound more consistent, but guitar players like the open string ring. Nitro lacquer sinks into the wood, flakes off, cracks, crazes. People like it. Finish on a solid body guitar is like 1 percent of tone affecting, if that, usually that. No one uses the heavy glopped on urethanes of Carter era Fenders any more, they were the worst. Modern relatively thin hard finishes have minimal effect but they do feel artificial, Alex has a point there, and worse, they are so shiny that it looks horrible under stage lighting. The old nitro finishes even new look way more natural under stage lighting. Rick's old conversion varnish system, which they finally quit in favor of UV cured because SCAQMD, actually was a good alternative to nitro as are varnishes of other types. I think Taylor went to a water based system. As far as toxicity, nitro-actually the solvents, not the nitro itself-are toxic but catalyzed systems are way worse. You need a forced air spray booth and the right filter mask or external supplied air and that presents its own problems for any spray finish so far as I am concerned.
I think another thing people want is a guitar finish that will wear over time. It sounds counter-intuitive but when you see your idols playing a 30 year old guitar with paint missing it just feels like they put part of their soul into it. I don't like buying pre-worn (relic'd) guitars and I've never owned a nitro finished guitar, but I think it would be cool to have a guitar that the finish ages, even if it just fades or changes color. Thanks for all the awesome videos!
Synthetic coatings are cool, and sometimes, depending on the finish, it's all you can use. But nitro has ONE thing above all of them that, to me, makes it a VERY valid finish still: it "burns back" for the ultimate in repairability.
Yep
What is burning back if I might ask?
@@flowryan5829 It means that it melts back into and blends with the previous coats. This makes lacquer very repairable, often invisibly. Synthetics do NOT do this. This makes invisible finish repair often nearly impossible.
@@jrfrondelli2023 thank you very much, my friend.
I didn't notice what type of paint you do prefer, agreeing with all the nitro downsides
He never told us what to use..he only said what not to use..???
Been in chem applications for a long time; boats, cars, custom woodwork, everything from Belzona on jet pumps to mixing shellacs. Old school finishes are like old school anything, sure their modern counterparts are more advanced and better in a lot of ways, but some people like the look, feel, and old school stuff. One of my favorite cars I've owned was a classic with lacquer, and I loved buffing it out once a month, and the results that it gave. Had a look no 14 part clear coat could ever have, and easy to repair if needed. Not to say I'd want to buy a new Tundra with lacquer, but for something old school it fit. I feel the same with guitars. I don't need the coating to last 120 years. That said, I do like poly, I like varnish, I like mixing the two, etc. They all have their merit and place... Liked watching your spray technique on the corners. Very cool,,, and nice burst on the neck.
Here's why. Nitro advantages: low toxicity. Beautiful finish. Easy to tint, long open time, can be made opaque or transparent, can be hand rubbed to a marvelous deep gloss, and most importantly it can be repaired, if a fly gets in it while wet or if it gets chipped 20 years later it's easy.. very easy to repair and be made to look perfect. I've used it for years and I love it. Now just trying to learn how to tint poly clear for a transparent color but I'm not finding much information on it yet. I might have to completely refinish this Epi I'm working on because it has a damaged area.. and poly can't be repaired.
I like it also, I have some that I sprayed 20 years ago and they haven’t yellowed, or deteriorated at all.
Only thing is I wish it was a harder finish.
Nitro rocks. Hate guitars that feel like plastic, I like cracking finishes, acrylic doesn't harden, like how nitro melts into itself
Cool man
I love the way it finish checks and ages.
Repair. Repair is the reason.
I spray mostly acrylic lacquers with a crosslinker additive, and it's surprisingly tough and moisture resistant, but I don't do it on anything I expect to repair.
Flow with various finishes is the only thing I've ever had an issue with. Some of the WB acrylic lacquers don't flow that well, and they have pretty strict guidelines on how much you can thin them. Not something you can't work out.
wouldn't be surprised to find that the crosslinker in many of these otherwise relatively harmless finishes is toxic and harmful in the long run,, but admit I haven't sprayed an instrument with them due to how hard of a finish it makes (afraid it would crack and chip easily).
You can spray the acrylic in a garage without any explosion issues, though, and anything left in the air just settles as dust.
Thanks for watching David, you are right, repair is the one thing that lacquer is very good at.
First let me say that I really like your channel. as to nitrocellulose lacquer, I think it looks better than poly. That is why Gibson and PRS use nitro.
I have guitars with Nitro and some with Poly, My nitro guitars are older and Id say they held up pretty well still no checking or breaking up of the finish, Even where my arm sets no wear. I think Nitro is easier to work with . Good video but I guess we all have our own preferences but for no other reason I like nitro better.
Nitro lacquer wears and ages more naturally and attractively than modern paint, it’s as simple as that. It has zero to do with tone
I'll agree that is has nothing to do with tone.
I guess people just like the way lacquers yellow with age
We do, but I don't think the millenials will care. At some point, the market isn't going to care much about nitro or no nitro, they'll just want something that looks good and lasts. I'm sure that every year, that segment (the people who don't care if it's nitro) gets bigger and bigger.
You have to admit that it looks really cool and has character after many years. I love Vince Gill's 50's telecaster that has authentic wear and just looks and sounds amazing.
@@daw162 I'm gen z and if I wasn't poor I would have nitro on all my guitars and I would've built my dream guitar vs buying it.
@@daw162 what the hell are you talking about? You do know that the Hipsters and their love or even obsession with vintage stuff such as vintage Instruments is a purely millennial thing, right? Try giving one of those guys a polyurethane coated Les Paul. I dare you. So that‘s that.
And even if you‘re not a hipster, you can enjoy the superb feel if nitro coated guitar and the aging of it. I‘m born in 1990 and I‘m a sucker for natural nitro cracks on guitars. Poly is cool and all but nitro just feels and looks more sophisticated.
You know what my favorite finish is? The one the customer wants to pay for :)
Personally I'm decidedly not a fan of the "feel" of acrylic /poly. But to each their own. There's nothing wrong with being capable of working with multiple mediums.
Well, ya got me there.
I assure you that "the customer" will not "want" to pay for me to do a lacquer finish
Correct as it feels like plastic to me as well. Not a fan of acrylic as the feel of the instrument is just as important as anything else. Nitro holds up just fine and more importantly feels much nicer. Yes it takes some skill and is much more time consuming to work with but it is worth it in the end for a instrument that does not feel like a plastic toy! Just my preference...
Shane Eyanson agreed.
Im in the process of a full restore of a 1980 sg I'm using Nitro, just because it was Nitro, I hate the waiting and wet sanding time. I've used automotive poly finishes before and love the results. A cool thing about automotive finish is. Its easy to get some nice fender colors. ex.surf green.In the 50's GM actually adopted the colors from fender. I went to the auto paint supplier we picked out the color and when the label was printed out it said Fender guitar Company surf green. If anyone wants the Paint code I'll repost it here.
Thanks for the Video
That's been our experience as well. a bewildering selection of colors and finish styles. That is pretty neat that you got a Fender color. Stay tuned because we are going to do lots lots more videos about this. If I can get the crusty old dude at Finish Master to be in a video I will
Texas Toast Guitars yea just look at any Gm from that era. Buick, Pontiac, Chevy. You can match a car to the Guitar. ( Hey that sounds Cool)
Yep I spray nitro out of habit can’t get out of my comfort zone. Could you tell what type of finish is it that your using ?
Great video maybe come at the right time for me. Thanks again Texas Toast crew !
Hi Andrew,
We were long time hold outs too. switched paints when we did the 400 dollar guitars for Doug Kauer's thing. I ain't going to lie... there was a learning curve. Having said that I can not see a reason to ever spray lacquer again. Of course, we do not do any repair work so it is a pretty easy thing to say never about.
We are going to do lots more videos on paint and paint gear. Keep the questions coming, we will answer them on the videos, sound okay?
I was thinking the same thing myself, so what is the product? Seems to be a little run around and confusing. But there’s another video in which they do spray acrylic lacquer. It’s the modern version. It’s waterbase
I think it's more about tradition than buzz word, not to mention depending on whether it's a solid color, burst, fade, 2 tone, etc makes a difference (visually) too. Its also a matter of opinion on what people like. You can see depth differences in all 3. Not to mention, it's the easiest way to tell if an Gibson LP is a fake or real. (The one guitar that should be refinished traditionally). I still seeing old guitars that are french polished by the older luthiers. The process is just awesome to watch.
We will be revisiting this topic in the future.
@@TexasToastGuitars thanks. That will be great.
I will hold my questions for your painting videos. Chris, we see you with Matt doing videos, it is nice to see you doing your thang also! Painting videos will be a tremendous help for those who need to know. I too can learn new things! I Ike Truoil and water borne poly. I look forward to what you guys use. I agree with the "Don't do anything in between coats. Prep+good venting, that's the ticket! The real protection you can put on your gee-tar is don't drop it, don't scratch it, don't wear abrasive clothes or belt buckles! Threat it like a new born baby! That's what cases were made for! Even $100 guitars are worth a good, study case. Love your channel! Thanxz
Thanks my friend, at this point, however, we will not be doing any more finish videos. We may be able to start up again in the future but the owner of the spray booth we are using has requested that we do no filming or photography in his booth. We have to respect that
@@TexasToastGuitars I want to ask a fair question, and I'm not trolling you. I respect the work you do, and the "old school" craftsmanship you do. Why do all the other stuff old school, and not do the old school finish? Go all the way man.
Viscosity. It's about viscosity. Poly has a high viscosity when it's in liquid form. Nitro lacquer has low viscosity. When poky dries it drives thick and it's basically like acrylic glass. The problem is that it's a resonance deadening effect. Because lacquer is very thin and hard and inflexible it is not a deadening affect for the woods resonance. It doesn't smother the surface and choke it's resonance. Plus, nitro finish gets harder and thinner over time. And it cracks, proving that it doesn't affect the woods resonance because the cracking of the finish is due to the wood continuing to dry and fluctuations in the heat and humidity make it swell and contract And the resonance in the wood also promotes the cracking.
So, it's more about viscosity. The thick and plastic like quality of poly finish does effect resonance and tone. Nitro lacquer is thin and it's hard and it's more brittle with age. Poly finish tends to reduce sustain and it's tone is brighter. A nitro finish or even a bare wood body and neck tend to have better sustain. Buts it's also darker in tone and has less highs and more lows. I've stripped so many poly strats and everytime that is the effect. Poly does better protect the wood from the seams cracking and spitting apart. If your strat is too dark, removing the poly will just darken it further. If your strat is too bright, removing the poly and replacing the finish with nitro or an oil finish is a good way to warm it up and darken the tone. It's all a complicated equation as to whether someone prefers poly or an alternative. Nitro doesn't suck. Poly is much easier and cheaper for people to work with to make a nice looking instrument and without worry of minor damage before the customer receive the product. If the guitar is smothered in plexiglass then it's much easier to keep in new condition. So I kinda feel like you have a business interest in convincing people that poly is awesome and nitro sucks.
Pepsi challenge: take two crash symbols and spray one with two coats of poly. The other spray two coats of nitro lacquer on it. When they cure test the effect it has on the resonance and see if the nitro covered one still sounds kinda like it did before you sprayed it. I'm confident that the poly one will be much quieter and not have much of a "crash" sound when it's tested.
Viscosity
And.... I should mention that some guitar.body woods sound better with the poly finish left on it. Example: basswood sucks without poly finish. It's loses all it's high end and it's way too bass heavy. Plywood bodies tend to sound better with poly and so does pine. It the wood is too soft then it actually could use the poly finish to help tighten up it's higher end frequency range. So it's not a black or white issue and it don't mean to start shit with anyone. And if you have a poly finish that is left bare under the pickguard (like the PRS silver.sky) and.in the trem rout and the jack cavity, it will actually help to balance the resonance enough to give a happy medium. I think poplar is best this way. But I think alder and ash are better sounding with lacquer or oil or bare. That asian mahogany substitute, okoume, or whatever it's called is kinda bright but oil or nitro finish helps to balance the tone and it sounds great that way.
But it's not a clear cut situation. And tone is not in the fingers... it's in the soul. And the feel of the guitar and it's tone affects my soul and commands my fingers to play better.
BTW, birds are a hoax. They don't really exist. Flying critters? Don't be a fool.
Disagree
When we were painting custom fleet vans . Lacquer was the only system . You'd start with bonding clear then your base coat tint coat then your clear coat the repairs were simple but the overall lasting of the work was good for 3years outdoor . The cureing of the clear coat was worse then the lacquer . I can't get around paint without getting sick .
There is no way you are that much of an old timer that all y'all had was lacquer :)
For natural finish guitars, I use Shellac. So easy to use, wipe on and off and your done.
Shellac is good stuff
@@TexasToastGuitars I love it, I buy the real stuff, the flakes that you have to dissolve in de-natured alcohol. As luck would have it, there is a guy not far from me, who cultivates the flakes.
I searched "polyurethane paint guitar," and 75% of the videos were of a guy named Brad not telling me how to paint a guitar with polyurethane paint. You gave me more useful information in one video and answered many questions. I also know that the wood stopped "breathing" after being chopped, cut, kilned, and sealed. I want a finish that works, not one that fails.
put some respect on brad angove's name
I've got a cheeeeap kit guitar with a flame maple veneer that's thinner than a dry fart so I felt I needed a poly lacquer because any wear will wipe that veneer away and look even worse.
Sounds cool man
Yes your right that’s for the video
I would love to see how you prep and put on your decals for headstock.
We'll see what we can do for you Jeff
Always crazy to me people thought it changes your tone. I like nitro because of the aspect of it not looking perfect forever. Poly finishes are just too hard and thick for my likening (that’s what she and I said)
I look at lacquer as a benchmark for quality if you're going to be paying the high dollar for the guitar The instrument should be sprayed in lacquer but that's just my opinion and they vary
*
Matt, you really need to coach Chris on delivering the catch phrase. ;)
I keep telling him he needs his own. There are lots of bits that didn't make it into the video.
I'm such a loud mouth that it comes natural for me
I just don't understand. Did I miss the part where you told us what you are spraying?
We have lots more on this topic coming your way. The plan is to deep dive into the
paint theory and equipment. Some will be preaching and some will be more
informative but they will be loaded with the good stuff kids go for. My plan is
to answer all the questions that come up and encourage some interaction. Stay
tuned.
I almost got the impression he was using acrylic lacquer but I presume they are using urethane.
Poly won’t break it’s a way more sustainable finish, it’s a lot cheaper, looks great and feels great.
Nitro will break but only if you expose it to drastic temperature changes or ding it. It’s applied thinner and it feels better to play with. I think nitro is expensive but it looks, and feels better hence making me play better.
So what is this magical paint you're so thrilled with, and is it more forgiving to spraying during high heat/humidity?
Hi Nathan,
Modern paints might seem magical but, in reality, they are, simply, the product of research and development. We are going to do lots more videos on the topic of paint and paint accessories... to include the reducer and hardener for use in various conditions We will try and answer all the questions in the future videos. Stay tuned
Awesome, looking forward to hearing. Dad's tele is ready to paint. My boy's matching lefty mini-tele has templates ready and we're fixing to join, plane and glue up in the next couple weeks.
Nathan, I've sprayed stew mac and target finishes and never had an issue with blushing. They're a little cool looking with a high build coat, but they're water and don't seem to mind humidity that much (I spray in a relatively high-humidity room that I don't - and won't - control humidity unless I have to. ). I agree with the comments above (I usually spray furniture, though), you set aside your time and get your coats on all at once within a day and over a day or two, the finish is completely cured, and you're done. Whatever the conditions are, it seems to turn out fine as long as you don't get greedy and lay it on thick enough to have bubbles.
It doesn't look good while you're spraying it (never really looks wet), but dries nice.
I have heard the ‘breathe’ thing applied to a nitro finish for years. I think it stemmed from the thick polys that actually do ‘suffocate’ a guitar. I have stripped poly finishes on several basses and replaced with nitro, and it has resulted in improved resonance. Hopefully this helps explain where that came from. Any thinly coated finish should be better than the poly crap that chokes off the natural resonance of the instrument.
Got a lush un-painted unlaqured Spanish guitar
I lost 3 friends in a 5yr period to cancer. The one thing they had in common, they all shot Nitro. It's dangerous as all hell. A guitar needs a finish and nitro is a bad idea, but it's a buzz word, it's in everyone's head. It's 2018 fer chrissakes.
Sorry to hear about your buddies Fred
No problem, this all happened in the mid 90's. They died in their late 50's from the same cancer, it was obvious what caused it. The stuff is really poisonous, even if you're not breathing it, it absorbs through your skin. I've been doing this since '78. I'm a lefty player and the only way of getting a decent guitar was to build it myself. I've built myself a good 50 guitars of all types. I turned it into a career that's lasted 40yrs.
I think you are building fantastic guitars that don't break the bank. Every player should have at least one instrument custom built to their specs
Great point Fred sorry to here about your friends. No guitar is worth dying for.
Fred Garvin of course lacquer isn’t nearly as nasty as the modern 2k urethane stuff. Isocyanates will screw you up really fast. I know guys in their 30’s permanently disabled from not being careful.
Sorry to hear about your buddies I'm probably in the same boat as them as far as painting is concerned.the stuff being sprayed these days is much worse for you than lacure ever dreamed of. Yes I was one of them that thought I was tuff erics than every one else.im hear to tell you and everyone they don't put warnings on the cans because they want to be nice.
Could you fill me in on the actual finish you guys are using ? I’d be open to getting out of my rut if I new what alternative finish I could rely on. Many Thanks!
I didn't get either what finish you (Texas Toast Guitars) DO use...
This has been coming up a lot We have lots more on this topic coming your way. The plan is to deep dive into the paint theory and equipment. Stay tuned.
The people that build guitars on youtube know better than us regular guitar dummies .
I stopped using Nitro years ago. For aging, yes.
Glad I watched this. I've been looking for a new matte finish for my speaker cabinets. I was leaning heavily towards lacquer. Guess I'll stick to automotive finishes or black poly.
Give it a shot and see what you think
Dude, nitro on guitars is awesome!
Not according to the title
@@TexasToastGuitars i'm really confused. Are you painting your guitars with nitro? and nitro is not as good as acrylic laquer? I want to paint some cloned scmidt array pedal boards. I started with single stage urethane....not fun, lots of work.
I have never liked lacquer. I have a guitar neck I've repaired, it had lacquer on the headstock with I've sanded off, but some still remains. Can I spray poly ontop ?
Chris, what sealer do you guys use? Simtec? Thanks
--Andy
Simtec, Yes
Absolutely love that metallic copper color.
Thanks Doug, we love it too. I think it is a Dodge color
So then what is "modern paint"? water based acrylic?
No... you could try watching the video
@@TexasToastGuitars I did but I'm not an expert thats why I asked a question on what is supposed to be an informative video. You don't have to be rude. Unsubscribing.
Two points I want to add; nitro is fairly easy to level and buff out. People like that. But that same softness makes it wear off faster.
And... wood doesn’t breathe!! It’s dead. And for the people that say it allows moisture to escape, it doesn’t. And if it did it would also allow moisture back in.
Finish has no effect on the tone of electric guitars.
I couldn't agree more David
Yes I am still using nitrocellulose. Why? Because I don't have any spray equipment. I use rattle cans. All the rattle can spray paint I have tried either bubbled, didn't cover or never dried. Most likely my technique. Nitro cans didn't have these problems.
You have to do you
Nitro feels better on guitar necks. That's the only pro and con that matters to me - the player.
Meh, I disagree but to each his own
@@TexasToastGuitars Plus it's much much prettier. Smells, looks and feels better. Surprised I have to big-up the obvious sensory superiority of nitro over poly to a company named "Texas Toast".
You're videos are great. Putting in some real time on doing this work. Mostly watching you guys and Dan Erlewine to get up to speed. Thanks again.
tung oil on raw wood feels better. any day. any way.
Isaac Adcock Love tung oil as a fingerboard treatment for fretless or fretboards. I did my SG a couple months ago. Don’t know if I’d dig a neck-full - the smell isn’t my favorite.
Exactly what’s the paint you are using dear sir? And good day to you Texas chaps.
Hi Dave, we are using modern urethane paints.
You can get them from places that sell automotive colors and clears
i painted for 30 yrs best way ti clean a gun is a gun washer it takes 1 minute and you never have to worry
In Chris we trust.
I need that on a shirt.
Hell, I want that shirt too!
Few have the ears to differentiate between compounds. If they can they didn't hit too many ACDC, Maiden and Slayer concerts in the 80's and missed the point entirely. Where nitro lacquer leaves the others at the curb is look and feel.
I don't even like the way lacquer looks anymore. I know I'm in the minority.
Yeah, I don't think anyone in the audience who is three beers in will be able to tell the difference between guitar finish.
When would you mask the binding vs painting over it and then scraping it? Cheers
Because it's a bitch-and-a-half to scrape an entire guitar, and if you fuck up you have to repair the stain you just scraped or gouge you just made. It's one of those 'do it if you're confident' things, otherwise just mask it off, lol
I can't see any advantage in using nitro lacquer, to me it doesn't feel much different to poly finished guitars.
I have two nitro painted Fenders, the Jazzmaster I bought new, the other is a 7 year old used Tele. The Tele is a complete case queen, it looks like the previous owner was terrified of harming the finish, there's hardly a mark on it.
Maybe in ten years time when the guitars have genuine playing wear (I'm not a fan of the relic thing) and feel like vintage guitars, it will have paid off.
I don't miss spraying lacquer one bit
Thanks for this important clip. The reason I use Nitro is because it goes on thin and hard. I would think that that would contribute to the guitar's sensitivity. Is this true?
We believe that the thickness of the finish is more important than the material. If you like nitrocellulose or acrylic lacquer you should keep using it
@@TexasToastGuitars One advantage to nitro is repairability. It is wonderfully repairable. Amalgamator (butyl cellosolve) is your friend. I won't say it necessarily sounds better. The classical guitar guys insist on French Polishing, if it makes them happy so be it. Acrylic lacquer can be beautiful but it takes forever to dry. The EPA has forced the kustom car guys into systems that do not lend themselves to our purposes as well as the older systems IMO. You might look at aircraft suppliers because they still have a few materials automotive doesn't. The really great products like Rand-O-Strip are sadly history though.
The re thing is most poly fishes are just 2 thick and people feel its sticky. You can always do a satin finish on the neck. The best thing about nitro finishes is they kinda smell like popvorn
polyester doesn't have to be thick. People think that the product is bad but actually it is more of an indictment of the work force
@@TexasToastGuitars polyurethane and polyester are fairly different products. I’m interested in the UV curing polyester finishes - apparently they can be very thin and still really tough.
The worst things about nitro are 1) it’s literally explosive, 2) it’s really toxic, 3) it off-gasses for a l-o-n-g time.
That color is very nice.
Thanks Oliver
Nitro finish doesnt make ur hands stick to the guitar. Thats also why people like satin finishes over gloss playing guitar and less finger prints
Guitars
@@TexasToastGuitars"the" guitar. Satin finish"es" over "gloss" (finishes). . . . Playing guitar
@@TexasToastGuitars i dont say, "hey guy im gunna go play guitars tonight at the show". "Im a guitars player".
Buffalo New York
how well venitlated is the area? wat are your specs? fish eye is a big problem and sanding down to it takes lots of clear out, i use ppg d8294 some of the best clear ive used, great work btw
Thanks for watching Adrian.
We are going to do lots more videos on this topic. Some are going to be more preachy than others but it will be a deep dive. We will answer all the questions as they come up
Hey Flipside Music t-shirt! Those are my guys!
Those dudes are cool
Hey I found the old video on what finishes you guys are using. All is good for DBC500. Just can't get Simtec sealer in Australia.
Hmmm I have heard about some issues getting things outside of the US. We have
lots more on this topic coming your way. The plan is to deep dive into the
paint theory and equipment. My plan is to answer all the questions that come up and encourage some interaction. Stay tuned.
Andrew Darnley dbc 500 is designed as a blending agent mostly I don't remember what they told you. Here.its mostly binder send clear suspender agent.
I want a guitar that will wear over time. A neck that will feel worn in after lots of play time.
Cool
Ok, but you can get that without shitty lacquer. Moving on...
@@swingset1969 What finish will wear like lacquer?
@@swingset1969 I'm not arguing what finish is better. It's all subjective really. I build vintage style guitars with aged lacquer finishes. That's just what I get the most requests for and what I'm able to sell. I personally like to see fretboard and neck wear over time because I love vintage guitars. I love the way Clapton's blackie aged over time. I don't know of another finish that will show that wear...Also don't need to use hardeners, retardants, or have to measure precisely when mixing and spraying either. I can usually just eyeball it, and get what I want.
@@swingset1969 Apparently you don't know shit. Enlighten me?
So what kind of paint did you use? You never really specified the paint that you used. Was it acrylic laquer?
Modern urethane paints
It's about time I've seen a paint job on a guitar or anything on youtube that I ager with absolutely. I get so tired of seeing people without any painting background tell and showing everyone the wrong way to do a paint job. If there is a big chunk of dirt in the basecoat wait till the end letting it dry enough to sand than sand the nib only and than put enough paint over thar area to hide the sanding than clear it period.....
Hahaha Chris and I never cease to be amazed at the stuff people do (or say they do) on line and in forums. I generally don't look at forums but the information super highway is sometimes a disinformation dirt path.
Texas Toast Guitars I'll go along with that.can you image trying to do a complete repaint jambs included on an old say72 Deville the way there trying to tell you how to paint a simple guitar.😨 it would take them a year or more.
I blame the good people at ReRanch for a lot of the "information" people get.
Hey what pressure do you typically shoot your solid colors at? I know you guys said you shoot between 23-30 on the Simtech but what about paint? Clear coat?
Well, wait... the pressures are different from paint to paint, gun to gun and day to day. You should never just set it and forget it. Check with the paint manufacturers and then adjust as you go. The amount of reducer, supply air temp etc. will mean that you need to adjust stuff when you start and adjust until it is right. It sounds like a lot and it is but once you get good at it things will be second nature
Since you sprayed over the sides of the binding, what are the techniques & tools you use to reveal the binding?
FBS masking tapes...www.coastairbrush.com/?fbclid=IwAR3nnmZ5KJXdU4c2nrGrrGdzIfPt0O3AAxTPMGVD806otZLGqw9Drd5uFE0
So we shouldn't use nitro and i'd love to change to something harder but you never said what you are using. I thought maybe it would be the description but alas. I really am curious as to what you use.
Hi Dane,
My elaborate trap is working.. We are going to do lots more videos on this topic.
Some are going to be more informative than others and some will be loaded with the good stuff kids go for. My plan is to answer all the questions in videos and encourage some interaction. Stay tuned, sound good?
I found another of your vids, sunburst #2 I think, DBC500. I'm checkin it out and looking forward to more vids on this topic. I stopped using it for a time and went to oil finishes but have never been happy with the results. The grain or colors really pop under a gloss finish.
Texas Toast Guitars So your plan is to not answer a simple question just to force more people to watch your videos?
Disclaimer: I'm just getting into painting. I don't even have a 240v compressor or a true spray room. I have felt a bit of pressure to use lacquer on guitar bodies. I'm just doing this stuff for fun and I neither want to use lacquer from a toxicity point of view, nor do I want to deal with endless coats of the stuff. Thank you for helping me come to a decision and avoid nitrocellulose.
How about its reworkability/ ease of touch up and repairs? Ease of polishing/buffing. Initial dry time. Etc etc etc. Is it the best option always? No of course not. But its not as terrible as you're making it out to be.
Oh, I think it is pretty terrible
@@TexasToastGuitars And I'd either agree or disagree with that statement depending on the application and intended results.
I've got a Fender neck with a Nitro finish that's constantly sticky. I've tried to be more careful to keep solvent cleaners away from it but I think the damage has already been done. The thing is the neck is almost new and the frets are perfect - do you think it's possible to strip and recoat a neck properly without doing a re-fret?
Sure man
@@TexasToastGuitars Thanks - I already ordered the replacement decal :)
hi there! great info! what material you sprayed? thanks!
We use lots of finish types. The Simtec sealer is always the start
I learned finish application working in a body shop. Lacquer is awful, and I wouldn't use it if my life depended on it (and in a way, it does). It has NO advantages over base/clear, none.
You got that right Craig
I would like that someone from Nitro lacquer fans explain me how is possible that body breathes trough nitro and it is not breathing through poly?
I know right, the guitar logic seems to have a lot of magic
there is a fly buzzing around in the paint shop. old video i know .. get the fly. splat. ..
Maybe we sprayed it with solvent hahaha
Does a dark base enhance the vibrancy of a topcoat or just make it easier to obtain coverage??
The base coat is a good idea for a lot of paints. Sometimes white is the hot set up
To add depth to a metallic, is there any advantage to adding some of that metallic opaque paint to your clear topcoat?
Absolutely, some finished really pop with the right base color
I painted my guitar with nitro because nitro's cool, nitro sounds better, right ? Six weeks later and my guitar still smells. So use nitro
if you want to wait 3-6 months for your guitar to cure. By the way my poly strat sounds incredible.
Who makes a good acrylic clearcoat? I would love to stop using old school lacquer myself.
I have no idea... we use a urethane clear.
We have lots more on this topic coming your way. The plan is to deep dive into the
paint theory and equipment. My plan is to answer all the questions that come up and encourage some interaction. Stay tuned.
I've had good luck with target em6000, as well as the stuff that stew mac sells (haven't checked stew mac in a while, but figure it's probably more expensive than other sources, because that's just the way they roll).
People will be surprised to see that the definition of acrylic is simply plastic in a few words.
Thanks. Looking forward to it.
Nitro feels different, sounds different and wears different. My opinion, all that matters really when it comes to all things guitar. I get your points, all valid but I really like nitro. No biggie.
I agree that it wears differently...
It certainly looks and smells different.
You guys are great, thanks for the killer info.
Chris is great... Matt is a loudmouth
I’ve been playing guitar since I was 12… I’m 42, I’ve worked in guitar repair, and played probably a few thousand guitars… in my experience, poly guitars CAN sound good, but they take forever to really feel “broken in.” Nitro guitars lose their luster quickly , but usually the instrument resonates extremely well within a couple months, thus being way more inspiring to play much sooner than a poly guitar . And the poly guitar sometimes will never feel inspiring… if you ask any seasoned player they’ll usually tell you the same…
At least you started off with your bona fides
There is a reason that mass production uses poly finishes. Easier and faster to work with and it is more durable. If you want a relic guitar, go nitro. You're going to pay for the upgrade as it is labor intensive and harder to work, but the fact that it sucks as a finish is actually what you are looking for.
meh
Nitro is the industry standard for most wood finishes. It just plain looks better and it's easier to work with than poly depending on what you're going for. If you want that sunkin into the grain look nitro is easy. If you want a super thick glossy nitro it takes a lot more coats but will look so friggen amazing when you do it right and your fuck ups are much more fixable on lacquer than poly. Besides that checking looks friggen cool. My problem with lacquer is it gets sticky when you play at first but if you play a lot it wares in fast. After that you'll have a hell of a time going back.
@@deanmlshredder Other than gibson, who uses Nitro? 90% of guitars manufactured today are poly. Poly is the industry standard.
@@SixString_J5 I'm not talking about guitars specifically. I'm talking about most fine wood furniture and the like. And all the TOP boutique brands use nitro if they can. Most mass produced brands can't because you had to be grandfathered in to spray nitro on a mass commercial scale in the U.S. especially in California where the dirt gives you cancer and there are only a few companies that were. Fender being one. Jackson is another not that it matters since they're the same damn company. My custom u.s.a charvel has a nitro finish too. If you spend big money you get nitro. It just looks better. Takes more care to keep nice but a lot of people like relics and if checking happens organically then so much the better. Obviously it does nothing for tone but the nostalgia effect drives the boutique and custom shop market so the highest end guitars on the market are mostly nitro. Poly is more durable and it's cheaper because it's less labour intensive to apply. Another reason why it's the industry norm. But not the "standard". Besides. Playing a gloss poly neck is like wanking with pomade. Please excuse the long winded response. I'm in an altered state of consciousness. Lol.
Thanks for the advice!👍😎🎸🎶
Stay tuned for a series of videos on this topic. A deep dive, if you will
Texas Toast Guitars ok...will do!👍😎
Seeing such beautiful wood get hided under paint hurt's my soul...
I agree.
This is a tricky part of the guitar game. Back in the old days we only did oil finishes and tried to show off as much wood as possible. People didn't always appreciate this and asked for cool colors and fancy paint work.
Sorry to hear that you don't like painted alder
Texas Toast Guitars
Im to much a woody for painted guitars and basses. :D
I was thinking the same thing, until I noticed it was a double neck. Then I thought, oh it's already ruined.
@@duderama6750 Well... I would also prefer to have bass and guitar on one neck like a Chapman stick if i woulf play such thing instead of 2 necks but some ppl just like it this way i guess...
I believe a guitar should look age appropriate as the years go by. You can't get that with poly. A Poly guitar will look the same a million years from now, left out in the open in all the elements. On the one hand that's admirable, and has it's uses. I just don't like it on a guitar. The other thing is you guys seem to be heavily invested in building guitars the "old-school" way, but refuse to finish them the "old school" way, I know humans are complicated, but that takes the cake. The last thing is when Nitro people say it lets the guitar "breathe" we don't mean that literally, we know wood is dead, and can't "breathe" what we mean is wood expands, and contracts via atmospheric changes, and the time of year, etc. I'd like to go out by saying I don't personally care if you want to paint your guitars using ketchup, or mustard, or BBQ sauce, that's your decision. Whatever your preference is, is what you should have in a free country. You guys to great work, make good looking guitars, i'd just be nice if you offered a Nitro option to go with the other "old school" methods...Hell, even branch out and offer a real French polish finish if someone is willing to pay.
If nitro sucks what are yiou useing thats so good.. (what a strange video)
We talk very specifically about what we use in this video. I think it is strange that you read this title and assume I owe you some kind of explanation.
laquer was cool for certain things, and it was idiot proof, new stuff is alot more durable, but boy is it touchy ,and very thin, i paint cars by the way, and agree with what you say
I don't agree that lacquer is idiot proof. I'm totally able to goof it up HAHAHA
That was such beautiful wood on that double neck! I HATE beautiful wood painted!!!
Hate is kind of a strong emotion isn't it
What do you do when that moth lands on that nice paint job?
I don't know
Nitrocellulose lacquer turns yellow and cracks up. Worst finish there is. Doesn't help tone either. Henry Ford used it because it was cheap and he could get more cars out the door faster.
Thanks David, we get a lot of flak from people who LOVE lacquer.
What if you skip using sealer on a maple neck?
That's fine
@@TexasToastGuitars Thank you... is there anything I should watch out for? I paint auto parts with my setup but am totally new to wood and just got a all maple warmoth neck... forgot to order a finish! Kinda cramming trying to figure out what I need to do to get a finish on this neck of some sort.
It's never been about lacquer "breathing". It's about the lacquer finish "resonating" because it's applied thinner. Everyone is entitled to their opinion, but Martin Guitars uses lacquer on their mid and high-end guitars and it's not because they are catering to cork sniffers. The current year $11,000 Martin D-42 is finished with lacquer for a reason. It resonates. Now, we can debate how a finish affects the tone on a "block of wood" style guitar like a Strat or Tele, and the argument will go on for years. But lacquer will resonate and various the poly finishes will encapsulate when applied to a thin spruce top acoustic guitar. The master luthiers at Martin have spoken to this often.
Fine
i prefer poly paint but nitro does have acoustic advantages
Thanks for watching Humphrey we prefer modern finishes too. We use polyester sealer, enamel colors and urethane clear. In our experience, there is no acoustic advantage to using lacquer that is quantifiable. If people like lacquer because they like lacquer... I get it, second kind of cool.
love the channel thanks for the reply i would like to add one point nitro is made wood so you are spraying wood on wood it has the same properties. modern paints like epoxy or polyester are all by products of oil secondly you mention not to rub down between coats thats all well and good if you can spray flat coats like you can regards
Nitrocellulose is NOT made from wood. The fiberous portion is cotton. And it’s not just dissolved cotton, it’s chemically altered with nitric acid. One of the first plastics was partially nitrated cellulose plasticised with camphor, or potassium nitrate. Plasticised is the key. Nitrocellulose lacquer paint is still plastic, just not very stable plastic.
An interesting fact is that most modern Nitrocellulose lacquer is about 5% nitrocellulose, the other 95% is acrylic lacquer. The EPA has strict guidelines on the stuff, and Gibson pays a hefty fine to use the 7% nitro mix they prefer for it’s yellowing and aging characteristics. So, you might be getting the poor wear and aging of the old school nitro, but it’s just as plastic as acrylic lacquer, If you don’t want any “plastic”, use shellac. Ground up bug barf and alcohol make a great guitar finish.
Personally, I think plastic is plastic, and the secret is thin coatings.
I’ll also add this. Why would you want to sand down a rough coat of paint 3 or 4 times, instead of just once? Put all the paint on, then sand and buff. That’s the way the big guys did it back in the day. Do you think Fender sanded between every coat? Hell no. I’ve seen Gibson guitars go from the paint booth to the buffer. Also, if you can’t get pretty smooth coats of paint sprayed on, you are doing something wrong, and should look into fixing that issue rather than just accept it and keep doing it the hard way.
bloody hell i must be an idiot just google what wood is made of you will find it is made of two types of cellulose their only two factories in world that make true nitro cellulose paints and they happen to be in china and cotton was seldom used because of the extreme fire risk, it was made mainly from coconut fibre and further more gibson have not used true nitro since 1953 when dupont brought out much safer version NITROCELLULOSE IS MADE FROM WOOD by replacing two carbon atoms with two oxygen atoms using sulphuric acid and nitric acid and wood sprayed with nitro has less tendency to have great movements in its moisture content preventing warping and rotting thats where the term comes, from, allows the wood to breath if you want to make your own shellac let me know
Inspiring. 🤘
Rock on!
I recently restored/modified a les Paul studio by putting Gibson “custom” binding all around and then I shot it with automotive poly clear. I posted it in a Gibson forum. Imagine how many of those guys are super pissed off?
Oh man, you made some friends there HAHAHA
Texas Toast Guitars I’m curious of your thoughts as a ton of what I did came from what you taught me in your videos. If you have time, check it out.
www.mylespaul.com/threads/2003-studio-premium-plus-to-custom.442402/
Timely! My last email to Matt had a question of paint and if you guys could do certain specific House Of Color finishes that involve flake. I plan on following up with neck finish questions, so I think it would be excellent if you guys spoke about the hardness of the finishes you use in the upcoming videos.
Great ideas for the next few videos Mr. E
We are going to do lots more videos on the topic of paint and gear to paint with. Some are going to be more preachy than others but it will be a deep dive. We will answer all the questions as they are asked
Texas Toast Guitars Looking forward to it. I used to prefer matte or raw finishes on necks, but recently clayed and waxed a painted neck (USA Jackson) and was blown away. So smooth.
Because I paint traditional chopsticks not guitars ... that's why I still use lacquer.
Cool
Great video!
I don't like when a finish fades...Iike when a silver burst eventually turns green. I think that looks like shit.
Agreed
You will break out in a sweat in the middle of winter with a poly coated guitar. Because it does not absorb any sweat at all. The lacquer is more comfortable to play in a non gig setting. Meaning you will sweat with either poly or lacquer under stage lights. But you will sweat much easier with a plastic coated guitar in the middle of winter. So lacquer is just much better in terms of comfort because it is uncured.
“Have you ever heard a blindfolded octopus unwrap a cellophane-covered bathtub?”
― Norton Juster, The Phantom Tollbooth
@@TexasToastGuitars I don't even know what that means. What I am saying is that lacquer is less likely to cause you to sweat. Because it does not reflect all of the body heat back at you. Because plastic is a better insulator of heat than lacquer.
it is quote from Norton Juster
striping(modeling) goes away with slower reducer
Cool man, I'll see what we can do
Because it looks like a darn instrument with nitro. Poly makes guitars look like toys "r" us child guitar.
You are adorable
@@TexasToastGuitars Thank you
That copper looks sick !
The clear top coat really made that guitar pop, thanks for watching Ken
Acrylic lacquer, not to be confused with nitrocellulose lacquer. Edit: I haven’t a clue on wtf I’m saying. But there’s another video where they share their secret recipe. Where’s Waldo and his recipe?
We do not use lacquer of any kind these days, as far as finishes go and, compared to what is available in the 21st century, it is not a particularly good one. Guitar players are convinced it is awesome and that is cool. If you like something you should not need to provide a reason.
While it is true that acrylic lacquer and nitrocellulose are not the same thing they are both, still, lacquer.
Sort of like saying creamy peanut butter, not to be confused with chunky.
@@TexasToastGuitars oh I’m totally confused. I just watched your other videos. I need to go back in get my shit together.
@@TexasToastGuitars what is that Deltron Ppg ? Is it waterborne acrylic? I need to watch that video again.
@@TexasToastGuitars true. I hate all lacquer, conversion varnish and urethane. I’m switching to modern acrylics and 2k topping
We have switched to Tamco Paints and clear
We also have a friend at Sweet Tea Guitars who has sent us some super cool colors as well.
We still use Simtec sealer
The story of guitars throughout the last eighty years has been that "it sucks" is "actually what people want". Guitar amps are not really amplifiers, they are, but primarily they are devices providing EQ, compression, and numerous flavors of distortion. Listen to Les Paul, I mean Les Paul the actual player, that steel guitar like sound is the pure actual electric guitar sound. No one wants that today, except pedal steel players, to a certain extent. Zero frets make the fretted and unfretted notes sound more consistent, but guitar players like the open string ring. Nitro lacquer sinks into the wood, flakes off, cracks, crazes. People like it.
Finish on a solid body guitar is like 1 percent of tone affecting, if that, usually that. No one uses the heavy glopped on urethanes of Carter era Fenders any more, they were the worst. Modern relatively thin hard finishes have minimal effect but they do feel artificial, Alex has a point there, and worse, they are so shiny that it looks horrible under stage lighting. The old nitro finishes even new look way more natural under stage lighting.
Rick's old conversion varnish system, which they finally quit in favor of UV cured because SCAQMD, actually was a good alternative to nitro as are varnishes of other types. I think Taylor went to a water based system.
As far as toxicity, nitro-actually the solvents, not the nitro itself-are toxic but catalyzed systems are way worse. You need a forced air spray booth and the right filter mask or external supplied air and that presents its own problems for any spray finish so far as I am concerned.
That's what we have in the new booth, it is a really great system