What is the EASIEST Way to Finish a Guitar?
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- Опубліковано 13 лип 2024
- There are a ton of different ways to finish a guitar. Different application methods and different products have different strengths and weaknesses. These affect a number of things like durability, gloss level, light resistance, how long they take to apply, and other things. But, if you find a finish you like, it's always nice if it's easy to apply. So, that brings us to today's topic. What is the easiest way to finish your guitar?
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On a more serious note, formby’s is no longer available 😭😭😭 now my favorite finish is one coat of zinser shellac, followed by three coats tru oil, buffing with steel wool between all coats. Beautiful, easy, and durable!
Formsby Tung oil, like many similar products had very little tung oil in it and actually was what's called a wiping varnish, which is the varnish of your choice thinned with mineral spirits. Check out Understanding Wood Finishes by Bob Flexner. Literally THE book on wood finishes. Big D likes Velvit Oil which is also a wiping varnish.
Problem is there is no Zinser Shellac available anywhere now, lol. Found 1 spray can in a Lowes 45 mins from me. 😪
I miss Formby's. It resists the sun rather well.
Minwax antique oil is an okay alternative. It doesn't darken the wood as much, and it smells like a different mixture.
-- I think Formby's got its smell from mineral spirits and linseed oil, but haven't messed with mixtures just yet. The VOC content probably got them shut down by the do-gooder brigade.
-- Sam Maloof poly/oil is a good turn-key alternative.
-- Watco has Danish Oil in a black walnut. Use it for just one coat, or else it'll get muddy/crappy like PolyShades does. If you run a coat of Minwax tung oil over some watco that's still sticky, it removes just a slight amount of the color and the grain gets a bit more 3D effect.
-- Zinsser SealCoat/aerosol shellac are indeed good.
GREAT video!!! THNX! My rising HS senior daughter & I are taking her penultimate summer and making memories....we are building guitars! She opted for a 335 kit, and I got a PRS-style. We're going to vlog the whole thing, too! We have been studying your work for weeks now, and feel confident after watching many of your tutorials. THNX SO MUCH!!!
(...and this summer project let's me add another guitar to the arsenal...#18!)
Oil finish is probably the easiest, but spray paint is very easy to do, long as you have a place to do it. Runs can happen, but if you take your time and do 2 or 3 thin coats, piece of cake. I have used Rustoleum, and auto paints with great success. I of course use your methods, you have many great videos on this. The only time I get runs or waves is buy getting too anxious and going too fast or not waiting long enough between coats. I also find that the clear coat is not really necessary, but if you do it, it is better to wait till the paint is cured, light sand and go for it. Seems like if you apply it like extra coats it blends with the paint and doesn't give you that clear layer affect, if you know what I mean. Thanks Brad
Brad the man, the myth the legend. I have been following forever, and this is my go-to channel for guitar topics.
Thank you; I’m glad you’re finding it worthwhile.
Dude, thanks for the finish overview. I've watched almost all of your videos and I've seen all the rattle can paint jobs, the HVLP ones, etc. and I'm glad to hear you suggest Odie's Oil. I know a lot of other maker folks who use it on various projects and honestly, I've been messing around with a bunch of kit guitars and getting those flawlessly-smooth, high-gloss finishes are just a massive exercise in frustration for me. I can only spray outdoors when the weather is nice and there's about 4 weeks out of the year (here in Chicago), that the humidity level isn't "Swamp-ass" which means paint doesn't dry worth a damn around here for half the year, and when the humidity is lowest is when I can't spray because I can't spray indoors. I'm desperately trying to finish up my rattle can paint job kits while the weather is mostly nice, and from then on out, if I make other guitars, they're going to be natural wood with rubbed-on finish like Odie's Oil. I'm sure you know of or maybe even follow Tim Sway, but he uses Total Boat finishes almost exclusively and many of them, especially the more simplistic ones seem to go on as easily as hand rubbed oil finishes. I have ADHD and it's a struggle for me to maintain the focus to keep after so many steps to get a paint finish looking nice. I live vicariously through you and nice workshop and equipment you have at your disposal. Basic oil or wipe-on poly finishes for me going forwards.
That was very helpful Brad. Thanks. I subscribed initially cause I'm poor and can't afford to buy spray booth gun compressor etc and needed to learn how to spray with cans. But over the years I've moved to shellac, oil and wax, stains etc all thanks to you keep it up bud. Thanks 😊
Thanks Mark
Oil applied with a cloth. Just takes time but looks sooooo good.
Cut the oil with naptha 30/70 in thin coats, apply with 800 grit paper. Ultra glossy.
Love all your videos, thanks for everything Brad
Thanks Kent
@@BradAngovewhat do you mean by "finish" a guitar?
@Jeremya74 I mean put a finish on it.
Love your videos, Brad. Mostly because I hate finishing and since I cannot celebrate my own results, I live vicariously through you. Cheers!
Haha well hopefully we can sort that out for you Frank.
Thank you for the great videos,you've been a help to me definitely...just put a finish on my first neck using the method you described with Teak oil and it came out great! I'm new to finish work and this method is easy and gave me exactly the finish I was hoping to achieve.
Glad to hear it!
I’ve only made one guitar, but I used a stain then a few coats of tung oil. Came out great
Nice video!
Shellac is such a versatile finish! I used it under oil before because of how it makes the grain pop, and by itself to build up a gloss finish. Awesome stuff, and it doesn't smell anywhere near as bad as an oil finish.
Shellac makes a great sealer before many paints as well.
So you’re saying all my wipe on stain and oil finishes are because it’s the cheapest, easiest, and requires the least amount of skill…
…yup checks out 😂
You’re ahead of the curve haha
yup tru oil is the least smelly, takes time though. rub in stain, tru oil, sand, polish. but prep well, coat often. has a nice amber hue. A very nice burst is pretty simple. Laquer, takes forever to cure, and sometimes it never cures hard.
Another angle to consider is how long between finishing a guitar and releasing it into the wild. I have had some good visual success using different types of dye, however if you then lacquer it for protection it takes at least a month to harden properly i.e. scratch resistent. And teak oil is awesome by the way. Good vid......
Yeah that’s definitely worth factoring in. Some finishes take an incredibly long time to harden.
dunno if polyvine products are available that side of the pond but have used the decorators varnish with no problems, wipe on,dries quick and sandable after 15/20 mins,and does leave a nice natural feel especially on necks
Still enjoying the content Brad! 🔥
Interesting. I am near to completing a scratch built Tenor Uke and was assuming I'd use a wipe on finish. I'll I have to look for the availability of Otis oil. I like shellac because it does not require sanding for bonding between coats except I will never use it because any moisture such as sweat will easily muck up the finish. If you use shellac place a poly over to protect it.
Paisley wall paper has made made some beautiful paisley guitars. Food for thought and it's true. I have friend who is a boutique builder and retired band tech. He makes some beautiful paisley guitars and a lot of famous guitarists buy them. Not exclusively for the look. He builds the guitars made to order spec wise and the paisley is just a color option. He makes more money that he can spend and is back ordered all of the time.
-- Minwax has some nice aerosol lacquer on the market.
-- Shellac is a very useful product. It'll seal in odors, even oil based stains. I used it for my wood paneling refresh. If you apply it with a piece of linen/pillow case and save the piece in a jar, it'll stay soft for months.
-- Wiping varnish is probably the best combination of durability, ease of application, and appearance.
You LITERALLY told me to stop as I was typing my "perfect" comment. 😂🤣. It involved a comment about my sister. That's all I'm saying. 🤣😂🤣 Great video though. You made some excellent points. 🇨🇦👍
I KNEW IT!
"Danish oil" is a tung-oil type finish with other hardeners and driers added that's easy to use and easy to find. It's available either "natural" (clear) or with various colors of stain added to it. I apply 5 or 6 coats with plenty time to soak in and dry, and hand-rub each coat with 0000 steel wool.
I like it for the back of a neck for that smooth, silky, natural feel, but I do not know how well people would like it on a body.
Just an option that people should be able to find almost anywhere.
I find that danish oil soaks in so much that it doesn’t form much of a finish. That may just be the type that I’m using though.
@@BradAngove I can see why you would say that. It's precisely why I like it on necks, it doesn't really feel like a finish at all.
To get it to build up at all you really have to apply a lot. Depending on the wood and the temp/humidity, it sometimes takes many coats over several days before the wood stops soaking up more.
Very helpful video thank you! I've had great success with Tru-Oil, and would consider it an easy finish (requires a lot of coats if you want it more glossy, but easy to apply). I'll have to give a try to Odie's oil, do you have a how-to video on how to use it by any chance?
I’ve done a couple demos of it. I’ll have another one coming out in the next few weeks in a video about refreshing a finish.
Hey Brad, I haven't reached out in a while. I'm about to try may hand at another kit build, but I want to use dye for this build. I have ordered a PRS style kit, that has a flamed maple top, and a mahogany back and neck. I have been searching for videos that show the complete process for preparing the wood, applying the dye through the application of the clear wipe-on poly. However, I have seen some videos that are totally different from others. In a few of the videos, they say, sand the wood, apply a sanding sealer, then sand it back, and add the dye. Once the dye has dried, add another coat of sanding sealer. When that dries, apply a clear grain filler and let dry. Apply 2-4 more coats of sanding sealer and when it is dry, sand it smooth and add multiple coats of the clear wipe-on poly. In some of the other videos, they say, sand the wood, apply the dye first, then the grain filler, sanding sealer, etc. What are your suggestions for a start to finish approach to dying the maple top, and the mahogany neck & back? I plan to dye the top purple, and the back, either amber or possibly Cherry Red. The neck will most likely be amber.
Some people do it differently of course, but my method is to sand, dye, grain fill (if clear filler) and seal in that order. Then of course there’s any remaining color work and the clear coat.
Spraymax 2K in a spray can is easy but not cheap at $22+ a can. Depending on your wood prep it can take 1-3 cans to complete a finish. It is however dangerous to work with so spray outdoors with protective gear. I also love "I can't Believe it's not Lacquer" it is a UV curing resin that came from the surfboard industry. Dries hard enough to sand with 1-2 minutes of bright UV exposure. It does take many, many coats to finish and you must level sand between coats. However when finished it is seriously durable.
French polish really ain't that bad. But I agree. I'm doing tru oil on this archtop, its glorious, but even 40 coats in, its very thin.
weenie roller! Also, I love TruOil.
Some oils are good, but my weapon of choice in guitar finish, once it is colored via dye or stain, is wipe on lacquer. My 2nd choice for natural wood, like on a neck, is Danish oil. Both dry quickly and can render a good finish in a minimum of about 5 coats. Great video, and good to hear your thoughts on the matter, Brad. Keep up the good work!!
Which lacquer do you like to use?
@@BradAngove I prefer a brush on lacquer by Minwax. I think it down and use a foam brush. I tried a regular brush and saw little to no difference, so since the foams are disposable and inexpensive, it was an easy choice. Not to mention less clean up.
@@BradAngove thin it down...
Agreed! Minwax lacquer is a decent product. It doesn't yellow as much as other clears do, and it's easy to cut/buff as it ages.
I just finished a build and I used SolarEz I Can’t Believe It’s Not Lacquer. It cures in the sun in 2 minutes and has no odor. I was able to do 3 coats in under an hour. Then I polished it with Carnuba wax. It was unbelievably simple and it looks great.
Nice!
Hello Brad,Are you still using the CAR REP 2K clear and do you recommend it.I used the Varathane water based spray can,but found it is very thin.Used two cans and still sanding through on the edges.I'm doing a fender strat.Thanks.
I still like the car rep. You should avoid sanding right up to the edges if you can.
Hey Brad, I have a single piece swamp ash tele body. I want something like I Danish oil finish but I'd like a gloss shine and "hard" protection layer. What would you recommend? Will a clear coat stick over Oil ?
Clear coats aren’t really supposed to go over oil, but I’ve used lacquer over polymerized tung oil a number of times and I’ve clear coated over danish oil before without issues.
I haven’t refinished too many guitars, but I’m doing a nitro re fin. right now. Nitro is not hard, it takes a lot of patience and don’t let your OCD get the best of you… What I mean by that is even if something isn’t perfect leave it alone! You’re not going to be able to do anything about it for a couple weeks most likely. that said it actually is pretty forgiving and a lot of the little things will dry and disappear.
EASIEST way?
Hand rubbed poly. Fantastic, strong finish and is almost “dummy proof”,
and you can literally do it in the back seat of a car!
(Yay for me! Having been a “student” of Brads for years, I put my answer at the beginning of the video!)
Hi Brad
I have a Solo 3/4 basswood kit for my grandson ! Since orange is his favourite colour I am using Rit dye ! Before using wipe on poly to finish , how can I keep the eye from leaching ! After applying the eye it dries rough ! Any help would be appreciated ! I am subscribed to your channel ! Thanks !
It’s dries rough because the water raises the grain. Just sand it back a little bit to get rid of it and then you can dye again if needed.
Wipe on poly may move the dye around a bit. I’m not sure. Consider spraying a coat of shellac to seal in between.
Thanks Brad, your vids are really detailed and thoughtful.
I'm about to take my first baby steps into your terrifying world. Thanks for being my guide so far. Wait, where are you going!?? DON"T LEAVE ME!!! Aaaaaghh.....
I hope your foray into this type of project goes well.
I figured when I was ready to finish a guitar body, it’d just show up at your place labeled from crimson guitars. Pressure you socially by surprise in an unboxing video that finds a little note.
Dear Brad I didn’t quite follow the two color sunburst and clear coat videos. If you would please do another one on this guitar and send it back to me, I’m sure I’ll get the hang of it. The kids here at the orphanage all watch your videos with me and we’re all very excited what you’ll do. Thank you so much. I included some beer and coffee as is obviously customary and a selection of harry&david edibles from my local dispensary. Sincerely, J-Mo
Seems pretty easy. I guess I should watch now and see what you suggest. Lol
I’m a fan of all your various techniques. I like wipe on poly.
Hahaha cheers J-Mo.
I prefer my Angelus dyes, sanding sealer, then tru oil polished
Nothing wrong with that!
How does a wipe on poly finish dry? Is is like those thick plasticy old epiphones or can you make it thin and maybe wear a bit like nitro by applying much less?
Wipe on is generally quite thin, but it’s not going to age quite like nitro. It’ll wear, but only because it’s such a thin finish.
I have discovered a way to eliminate brush strokes completely when applying polyurethane and most likely any other type of brush on clear finish.
1. Use a proper width foam brush for the size of your project.
2. When ready to apply, dip the brush into the finish and let soak for 1-3 minutes to insure that the brush is now charged. This helps to remove any air trapped in the foam brush
3. Load up brush and apply using a slow and I mean painfully slow steady brush stroke the entire length of the project. (No back and forth stokes!)
4. Repeat process with next run and etc., etc.
Special note:
Always dip your brush into can for more finish way before you run dry.
The key here is to prevent bubbles and brush streaks by flowing the finish very slow.
Sand between coats as needed to get the desired bubble and streak free result.
Nice, I’m glad that’s been working for you. Be careful what clear you are using though, some may melt the foam brush if you leave it in like that.
@@BradAngove I could see that happening. I generally use water based polyurethane for most of my projects but have a guitar build in the works where I will be spraying lacquer. I intend to watch a couple of your videos where you spray before I jump into finishing.
Finishing is subjective when it comes to easy in my opinion as skill level comes into it. For me easy is tru oil is about as easy as it gets as for one guitar say a tele is one bottle some rags bit of sandpaper or steel wool and time! And you can get a beautiful hard wearing finish. Another for me is good old nitrocellulose finish as that's also easy to use either in a can or spray gun but you will need more prep time and more tools ( a compressor is a must have tool anyway) and drying time is very long also but the finish is amazing. In the UK its hard to find some of the wipe on stuff you guys get but crimson does a wipe on polly but I'm not a fan of the Finishing oil ( sorry ben) it's just not as good as cheaper options. But its subjective and all comes down to price also so grab dome car flat black tins that you can buy for £1 a tin in pound land and a tin of clean lacquer and you grf a nice gloss finish cheap as chips....
All I can say about tung oil, is read the label. Since the formula is different from brand to brand, so will the application.
So true. There’s a lot of variation in polymerized tung oils in particular.
Hey i was just thinking im not sure if you did one yet or not but you should do a video of FAILURES on purpose and not success on a cheap body to show how temperature can ruin a paintjob and what happens if you do it outside or over a dirt floor or dont sand one down and just paint over the top of another paintjob or dont use grease and wax remover what environments you let them dry in or if you apply another coat over acrylic too quickly when you think its dry...STUFF LIKE THAT if you ever just need an easy useful idea and just speed show stupid mistakes that would be easily skipped over! Youknow i hope YOURE doin good! Stay healthy dont forget to try and have fun
You got the ol' man...I was counting the easiest methods I could think of when you said, "Wipe on"....Never crossed my mind, sigh. Definitely the easiest, I agree, and probably the most forgiving for people like me, duh!
Haha glad I could make myself useful for a change.
This was helpful! I'm not a woodworker, at all, but I do own lots of guitars and want to be able to work on them intelligently. Only recently has this work expanded to minor finishing (fixing a factory blemish on a new guitar, refinishing and tinting a neck), and this overview was a nice summary. I've watched several of your videos now and trust your experience and knowledge, so thanks!
One question, with the blemish: I've got it filled and sanded smooth, no problem with that. The color match has been hard though, and I'm currently trying Testor's model paint simply because it was the best match out of the easily and cheaply available options. Seems to be taking forever to dry however, and I'm skeptical that I'll be able to blend the area into the surrounding poly. Not going for perfection, but any advice you might offer with acrylic enamel (that's what Testor's model paint is, right?) would be great. Thanks again!
I think testors might just be enamel. Are you thinning it at all?
@@BradAngove Ok, yeah... I guess it is enamel. The Testor's info out there can be... confusing. Even the tiny bottle has the word enamel in such small print (on a red background) that I just now had to put the bifocals on to confirm. Anyway, no, I did not thin it at all. Guessing that that would be wise if I want it to dry to a sandable state within a week. Honestly, just painting the stuff on full strength looks fairly decent. Not noticeable from more than a few feet away. But it's been almost a week now and it still feels... gummy, not fully cured. Getting better, just not there yet. Humid here lately... I guess I'll keep waiting, as I know that you can sand this stuff once it's fully dry. Any advice would be welcome!
If you keep it somewhere warm, and if possible less humid, it should dry faster.
I've been trying to get past the painting phase for months. Using spray cans I had problems with splotchy, nonuniform coloring, and incompatible primer.
Oh, that’s no fun.
Two cans that don't match, any moisture or too cold=a cracked fractured finish or gloop.
Ah, there’s this finish I really like where the grain is a different color than the rest of the surface, but the kit I’m eyeing for my budget is veneer-topped and probably can’t be sanded back for a second dye… so nervous 😅
I was thinking about mimicking Gibson’s “Chicago Blue” finish on the top, staining the back and neck brown, and then using wipe-on poly / satin finish on the body, but I don’t know what to finish the back of the neck and headstock with and I’d like the front of the headstock to be black.
It’s my first kit build and I fear I’ve already gone too far over my head. 😵💫
Fortunately I have lots of videos on all of that stuff. What kit did you get?
I wish the Bryan you were addressing at 1:09 was me. But how would you know I was ready to type?
It was a different Brian this time, and he was definitely ready to type haha.
Can you and what stain works underneath shellac? im want to refinish an SG faded with a transparent ebony/black stain.
Shellac is compatible with most finishes, so many stains work under it.
@@BradAngove thanks!
"Easiest" I've found: brush on shellac wiped on with a crumpled wad of printer paper. Application is a no brainer - just wipe it on, and rub off any excess with more dry paper. Similar to lacquer (same active ingredient: lac), drying times are very short - shorter than paint, linseed based, tung based, etc. Three or four coats of hand applied shellac can be sanded and buffed to a mirror shine with no fear of cutting into underlying stains or - heaven forbid - a veneer!. For the absolute cheapest, get brush-on poly by the gallon, and apply in a similar manner. Drying times are longer, but its the cheapest, easiest guitar finish out there. You know how it is, "less expensive" often means "takes longer" My solution is to start on the next build while I wait for the poly to dry. Hanging the parts over a space heater can help. Just don't let them get too hot or you'll have problems with your clear coat. Shellac followed by linseed based can yield very nice oil based finish results quickly with little effort. The shellac acts as a fast drying sealer, allowing the linseed to quickly build with just a couple of coats.
All things being equal, I still prefer rattle can lacquer for ease of application, fast drying time, high gloss, relative ease of application, no special gear required, relatively reasonable cost, and forgiving nature (drips, runs, and clouding due to less than ideal conditions can all be fixed).
Well the easist way to finish a guitar is trowing it in the bin. Rob
This guitar has a finish tht scratches real easy , what can be used so it's hard to scratch and not alot of work . Thx
What kind of finish is it?
I've finished a guitar with mineral oil/butcher's block oil before. It looks really nice and it's easy but it's also really messy. I wouldn't recommend it. Oil was still leaking out of the wood for almost a week after applying it. After a few months of not reapplying the oil, I decided to just paint it instead and apply a more durable finish. Small bits of the paint kept flaking off and I had to keep touching it up. I suspect the mineral oil may still have been leaking out of it and causing that but it could be that I just didn't prepare the surface well enough.
Ya mineral oil doesn’t dry that well so you can still get it on you for quite a while after.
Question: is it normal for my guitar to be stinky after an oil finish? I put 4 or 5 coats of Odie's oil on a mahogany body, waited 2 weeks for a cure and then finished with a few coats of Renaissance wax. I didn't notice anything for a while but now it has a smell that is not pleasant....any ideas would be welcomed, thanks!
Oil finishes often have an unpleasant aroma for a while. Odies typically doesn’t. Renaissance wax however might. Have you compared the smell of the guitar to the various products to figure out what you may be smelling.
Five years ago you mentioned Spray max having the best clear-coat in a can. What would you say now ? I would like to know.
There are a few others that are very similar, but spraymax is still excellent. I’m also fond of the car rep clear now.
Your timing is excellent. I have a video coming out shortly on who has the best spray paint.
@@BradAngove Cool. ✌️😎✌️Thank you.
Hi there Brad,
Great to see you my Canadian friend, great year to you & your love.
Best David hey how did that acoustic guitar sound? Did I miss that vid?
Spring up in the NW we've been having snow mix and snow pellets up in the mountains here yet hope the great white is treating you kanooks well.
The lacquer on the acoustic is still hardening. Should be ready to polish soon.
@@BradAngove very cool looking forward to your great video, and amazing sound.
Best David
Seal your grain. Let it dry. Sand. Stain or paint. Let it dry. Wipe on poly cut a little with mineral spirits. Light sand. Wipe more poly. Easy peazy. But if you’re going for a high gloss, you’ll need patience and many coats.
Shellac can turn white if you sweat on it (or get it wet in any way) so it isn't a good idea to use it on an instrument unless you cover it with something waterproof.
I forgot to mention: I've heard that Tru-Oil (made for gun stocks) is a good finish for instruments that can be wiped on and isn't affected by sweat/moisture
Indeed. I think I mentioned tru oil.
Ha! You're assuming I ever manage to finish a guitar... :) But yeah, soak in and buff off are the most fool proof but some like Danish oil can still STINK of the product weeks or months later.
I'm still looking for a finish that I can do in my house and don't have to stress about a bit of dust.
Wipe on tends to be decent for that kind of thing
Teak oil is perfect for that.
At least for me it worked really well.
Kind of surprised you didn't mention using dye. I have always found them really simple and easy but maybe that's me.
Dye is good, but it’s not a finish. It’s a colorant. You would put dye under a finish like the ones I mentioned in this video.
@@BradAngove fair enough
@@BradAngove but I was also kind of getting at how some finishes react to a dye
Have someone else do it is easiest. Maybe Brad Angove.
Hahaha
The real question is whether or not you enjoy doing a guitar finishing project. If you enjoy the process of making it, chances are you're going to want to make more. I pulled together stuff to spraypaint a couple of bodies, and now I want to do it again. It can be worth it to build up a "kit" for finishing via the technique you really want to do, based on how much money and effort you want to put into the process.
I have a paint kit, a dye kit, a clearcoat kit, and a polishing kit, but I still hate working in the "paint shop" part of my guitar workshop. Waiting for anything other than "in line for concert tickets" is against my religion. Gear don't help if it's just not really your thing. I mean i can pull off a semi-decent finish as good as the next guy - but like math, i can do it, i just don't like to.
Would wearing a cloth mask suffice, vs a respirator? I'm planning on doing a wipe on poly, probably in the garage with the doors up.
It’s certainly not ideal, but if you’ve got good ventilation the risk probably isn’t that high.
@@BradAngove Ok thanks!
Thompson's water seal?
Have you used it? I find it soaks in more than I would have hoped. It’s also mostly just a sealer if I understand correctly.
@@BradAngove Never tried it. You said anything that works with wood.., and I thought well it seals up the deck so if you do your sanding first.....
Ya, it certainly works as a wood sealer.
Hey I wasn’t even typing yet 😂
Brad, I feel like we should bet a half empty jar of Odie's Oil and a case of Molson on tonight's hockey game. You in? LFG Kings!
The Oilers have taught me a lot about learning to live with disappointment haha. Sure; I’m in!
I've always found the easiest way to do anything is to get someone else to do it 🤣🤣🤣
tell complainers that they can suggest whatever they want on THEIR show. have none of that
Can't understand what you are saying. What is the name of the product?
Odie’s Oil
Tongue oil would be easier if it didn't hurt so much. Plus cocobolo tastes terrible.
You have to go with the grain. Otherwise you risk splinters…
Shellac. Shellac is easy peasy. I'm not talking about french polishing here, just wipe on shellac. It's one of those finishes you can do in cold damp weather as well.
And it makes a great sealer if you want to add something else after.
Easy...haha
No talking...no meals...just knee earings....haha
I use hand grenades, finishes off real good! Lol
“Finish him”…
i've rolled 20 thin coats of polyurethane on a guitar, let it cure for a month and then sand and polish, no worries there.
You seem like a great guy with a lot of knowledge, and it's generous of you to share it. Please consider rethinking the titles of your videos. I expected a quick demo of what you think is the easiest method. But I got no demo, no clear answer. The video contains good info, but since it wasn't what I was looking for, it wasted my time. I understand that your opinion of the easiest method might not be the same as everyone else's, but we know that going in. I suggest that you retitle it: "The pros and cons of the different methods of finishing a guitar (no demos)"
Thanks for the feedback John. I have done demos of these various methods (or certainly most of them) on my channel if you’re interested.
@@BradAngove Yeah...no. Either you missed the point or you're trying to deflect it. Your title is dishonest. Cut it out.
My title is not dishonest at all. It states the topic that is being discussed. If your not actually interested in the demos, that’s fine. It seems a bit odd given the content of your initial comment, but I leave that to you.
Gotta say, I came looking for something other than talking too. I zipped through looking for some product or demonstrations but just saw you talking. If you're not showing me something my attention span isn't long enough to listen, take notes and figure it out on my own. I'm getting the info I need from the comments honestly.
Glad to hear you’re finding the comments informative Scott.
easiest let someone else do all the work 😂😂😂 serious with prices. the way they are hard to refine a guitar for under 100 bucks Iam in Az and a quart of base coat was 34.99s of today I believe it's up.65.00 bucks the one thing I can get at a decent price is catalized clear to all the younger people you all call it 2k well it's catalized clear coat I use U-pol clear thier 20 system I can use it in their catoalzed primer also witch is nice. Al for under 80 bucks a gallon of clear and a pint of hardner 80 bucks that clear and activator from Oriellys . I love this stuff . ah yes you can use spray cans. but we're the money goes is material sNd paper tape all that stuff now I went to are local paint supply store I spent welll over 250 bucks Andi didn't Evan get. clear or primer r that's just materials wet dry normal sand paper all that stuff. I do refines for a local shop my buddy owns. and I don't resy make any money it's a hobby so I do his for around 150 a guitar .
Sorry but I don't understand what oil you are saying. Can you please spell it? Thanks!
Odies oil
Let someone else do it!
Hahaha that’s not what I taught!
If she wants a creative working man then you cant complain that hes a creative working man. They always just play on their phone anyway even when they pick the movie so HEY at least youre doing something cool and being present.
The easiest way is the most expensive usually, which is, get someone else to do it
Haha well that’s tough to argue with.
Show don’t tell
Then I’d be getting complaints about the length/number of videos haha. Can’t please everyone.
easiest way? Covering it with stickers?
Is that finishing it?