A couple of things: When I modified my brigs to cutters and 3 masted sloops, I assembled the hulls, but did not glue the deckplates on. I just placed them in the hulls. When I cut the hulls I did so with the deckplates in place unglued. I used a hobby miter box and Miter saw. This assured that all of my cuts would be reasonably straight and minimized and filing, sanding or filling. As for the 3 masted sloops and the foremast modification. I have found after making about Nine of them that instead of cutting the base off and putting the extension piece at the bottom, that I should have made the cut where the first fighting top sits on the mast. And I would only would have needed about .5mm length of 1/16" styrene rod. I used a pin vise and drill bit the same diameter as a normal sewing straight pin to secure the two pieces at the bottom when glued together. I would have done the same if done at the fighting top. I'm going to get another box of the Frigates and Brigs to make some more 3 Masted Sloops, but this time I'm going to implement some changes to make the job easier but also have the Fore mast and Main mast look more proportionally correct. Putting the mast extension at the bottom raises the lower yard arm too high. It needs to be at about the same height as the lower yard arm of the foremast.
@@no.6minis Amazon $10, Miter saw handle & Blade varies, but may find it cheaper locally. I chose to not use the Mizzen Mast for the main mast because of the furled sail doesn't belong on the Mizzen Mast.
@@no.6minis If you are going to kitbash, a hobby Miter box & Saw are a must. I just replaced my miter box that I've had for over a decade now. I've replaced the saw blades at least six times so far.
So a big part of this video is to build a 3 masted, single deck, 22 gun sloop that would represent the USS Wasp. The term sloop of war was used very loosely and there various versions from what I could see.
Kind of. The verbiage on the Warlord games sail sheets states fore and mizzen. No main. But to me, main and mizzen refer to the same thing on a two masted ship.
The tutorial was nice, but your choice of tools and methods to accomplish the conversion are questionable. I recommend investing in buying proper hobby tools such as a hobby knife (exacto-knife for those living in North America), files (both hobby and small wood-working files), hard, jeweller's saw, hard and silicone sculpting tools and emery boards. When cutting the ships to size, ALWAYS use a hobby a fresh hobby knife to cut and hobby files to smooth out any rough areas. Only use hobby clippers to either remove bits from sprue or to remove something that a knife would struggle with. Also, when cutting the components it is always best to have a little bit of excess. You can't avoid not having a seam, but by filing the excess off bit by bit you can get a near seamless look on the hull that requires little to no gap filling. (I'll be honest, watching you use sprue glue to fill in that gap was torture. You could have easily used a 50/50 mix of green stuff and milliput - or Grey Stuff or Brown Stuff - to fill the gap, shape it, then file it smooth once fully dried.)
Most impressive work on this most detailed ship!
A couple of things: When I modified my brigs to cutters and 3 masted sloops, I assembled the hulls, but did not glue the deckplates on. I just placed them in the hulls. When I cut the hulls I did so with the deckplates in place unglued. I used a hobby miter box and Miter saw. This assured that all of my cuts would be reasonably straight and minimized and filing, sanding or filling.
As for the 3 masted sloops and the foremast modification. I have found after making about Nine of them that instead of cutting the base off and putting the extension piece at the bottom, that I should have made the cut where the first fighting top sits on the mast. And I would only would have needed about .5mm length of 1/16" styrene rod. I used a pin vise and drill bit the same diameter as a normal sewing straight pin to secure the two pieces at the bottom when glued together. I would have done the same if done at the fighting top.
I'm going to get another box of the Frigates and Brigs to make some more 3 Masted Sloops, but this time I'm going to implement some changes to make the job easier but also have the Fore mast and Main mast look more proportionally correct.
Putting the mast extension at the bottom raises the lower yard arm too high. It needs to be at about the same height as the lower yard arm of the foremast.
All excellent points and thanks for sharing it here. You’ve got me looking at a hobby miter. That may be a good tool to have.
@@no.6minis Amazon $10, Miter saw handle & Blade varies, but may find it cheaper locally.
I chose to not use the Mizzen Mast for the main mast because of the furled sail doesn't belong on the Mizzen Mast.
@@no.6minis If you are going to kitbash, a hobby Miter box & Saw are a must.
I just replaced my miter box that I've had for over a decade now. I've replaced the saw blades at least six times so far.
what black seas calls a brig has 18 guns on one deck 2 mast that is a Sloop-of-war -16 to 18 guns on 1 deck
So a big part of this video is to build a 3 masted, single deck, 22 gun sloop that would represent the USS Wasp. The term sloop of war was used very loosely and there various versions from what I could see.
a brig only has a fore and a main, no mizzen. so you're using two fore masts and a main mast.
Kind of. The verbiage on the Warlord games sail sheets states fore and mizzen. No main. But to me, main and mizzen refer to the same thing on a two masted ship.
The tutorial was nice, but your choice of tools and methods to accomplish the conversion are questionable.
I recommend investing in buying proper hobby tools such as a hobby knife (exacto-knife for those living in North America), files (both hobby and small wood-working files), hard, jeweller's saw, hard and silicone sculpting tools and emery boards.
When cutting the ships to size, ALWAYS use a hobby a fresh hobby knife to cut and hobby files to smooth out any rough areas. Only use hobby clippers to either remove bits from sprue or to remove something that a knife would struggle with.
Also, when cutting the components it is always best to have a little bit of excess. You can't avoid not having a seam, but by filing the excess off bit by bit you can get a near seamless look on the hull that requires little to no gap filling. (I'll be honest, watching you use sprue glue to fill in that gap was torture. You could have easily used a 50/50 mix of green stuff and milliput - or Grey Stuff or Brown Stuff - to fill the gap, shape it, then file it smooth once fully dried.)
@@Is_This_Really_Necessary good points. Thanks for taking the time to provide your feedback. Will definitely consider it in the next kitbash project.