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Nice and easy instructions to follow. What is the thickness of the sheets ?

Thanks for the guide. Really useful!! Its still proper fiddly though..haha

Lovely French generals, well done!

Very nice!

The tutorial was nice, but your choice of tools and methods to accomplish the conversion are questionable. I recommend investing in buying proper hobby tools such as a hobby knife (exacto-knife for those living in North America), files (both hobby and small wood-working files), hard, jeweller's saw, hard and silicone sculpting tools and emery boards. When cutting the ships to size, ALWAYS use a hobby a fresh hobby knife to cut and hobby files to smooth out any rough areas. Only use hobby clippers to either remove bits from sprue or to remove something that a knife would struggle with. Also, when cutting the components it is always best to have a little bit of excess. You can't avoid not having a seam, but by filing the excess off bit by bit you can get a near seamless look on the hull that requires little to no gap filling. (I'll be honest, watching you use sprue glue to fill in that gap was torture. You could have easily used a 50/50 mix of green stuff and milliput - or Grey Stuff or Brown Stuff - to fill the gap, shape it, then file it smooth once fully dried.)

Nice narration bro

Sorry dude, but speed paints or contrast paints are not the right choice for these figures. They look blotchy and on the uniforms they do not give the solid colour that was typical of the woollen uniforms of the day. Your colour choices are spot on but should have been applied with standard acrylics. Just have a look at some of the other painters out there or even something like the Osprey books for colour reference. Good luck with it in the future.

This is not a shot at your painting skills but rather a comment on the paint choice for the horses. If you have ever seen a horse in real life you will know that the is no impact on the coat colour from underlying colours or even the skin. So you may get shades of brown over black or dark brown, it sits on top of those colours. This is because horse hair is relatively short for a mammal but is very dense. You would have done better with regular acrylics for the horses bodies. I made this comment to be informative not hyper critical.

Great tutorial! 😊Can u please tell me where the uniform pictures came from?

Great video. Thanks for the time and effort. Only changes I've done so far is used the waz-bomb H-tail and would recommend using Milliput or something similar in the gun pods to level it out. I just filled the cavity prior to glueing together learned this lesson the hard way from magnetizing my deff dread.

This is well done! I'm thinking about to buy this basterd and build it like you did. I love it! greetings to you.

So far the only reason I could fathom using these after seeing just how much of a gap was in that wolf’s leg was to make poxwalkers or deathguard look particularly Frankensteiny with limbs just barely held on by a thread, as cool as that sounds it’d be totally unintentional and barely held together both in lore and on tabletop.

Your new technique is something I've been doing on and off since the 90s. Did washes on five Trench Crusade guys with DecoArt Americana Bittersweet Chocolate thinned with water over ProAcryl white primer earlier this evening. Will start painting them with colors tomorrow. For WWII desert guys about ten years ago, I did the washes a bit heavier as stains in the uniform colors, and then just had to paint details.

Combine them. Do the wash and then a light dry brush of white for highlights. You might get an even better result.

I'm new so I haven't tried any of them but being from Lincolnshire, I'm cheap. So I bought most of the paints in old because they're like a quid cheaper. I've been looking for a comparison and all I've found is comparison charts where old Mars red is new angelic red. Thank you so so much

Interesting, but the pooling from the dark wash is unattractive. Maybe that can be improved with experience, but I suppose will always be somewhat of an issue. Especially if the speed paint "reactivates" the dark wash, leading to even more pooling. And I also kind of like the texture the dry brushing gives. But it's always good to have another tool in one's kit, and I might try this method out. Thanks for the video.

I use this method a lot, I use soft tone for bone parts they come out really great without using any other paints on the bone parts. I often/sometimes do the wash afterwards because I want some different washes on different parts. And I noticed little difference between wash it before or after the paint. So it is fun to experiment with that!

I really appreciate these tutorials, as I'm a total beginner in my paint journey. Keep them coming.

Know if your speedpaints are the 2.0? They look like they cover much better than mine

There is no British Royal Army. Pickton wore civilian colthes and was killed at waterloo.

Great

Awesome paint on these very cool

Really nice clip - it inspired me so that is was paint all the cockpits for a regiment. To be honest speedpainting deals about good preparation and planning. And you video is a good manual to do this. Thanks a lot!

Can you use tracing paper?

A tip from someone who has painted a company of Davion Guards: Thin the red and white paints just a little more. If the brush is giving you resistance, you're less likely to get a clean line. Also, the width of the line should have little to do with the width of the bristles, and more to do with how close you have the brush and gentle pressure (which, ironically, you need _more_ of when your paint isn't thin enough. You'll find the lines are crisper and more dense if you try it that way. Those lines are tough, no need to make it harder.

Maybe Im old fashioned, I just cant stand the results of speedpaints. It looks shite. They have their place, but used wholly on a model? Nah.

Napoleon's conquering French navy!?🤣 I think your history might be slightly off there, mate.

Beautiful job and nice, clear explanation. I am just starting so I don't expect mine to be as professional looking as yours but thanks for doing this video.

I appreciate these videos, you really break it down so it is easy to follow.

What I love about these videos is you give gamers a solution for how to do tabletop quality painting. People can get competent results without having to delve into purchasing an airbrush or buying a large number of paints.

I thought about this methode but didn't see a video about it so I just assumed I was missing something

I really like the drybrushed gritty look. I usually just use white for my slapchop and leave lots of places just black. After painting, I usually add some fine sawdust glue mix on the bases and then pigment powder (from crayons / similar). Quite often I just apply the pigment to the whole model, wash it off with something so that it is just in the recesses and then apply more to the legs & base in the end.

OMG!!! I love this thank you….. wow soooo easy.

No, most of us still wainting our pack to be shipped!

Extremely helpful video with next to no filler- thank you very much!

Neat, I like the splash-dash method. My only stickling point is the Nightstar, the panel you colored as a window is in fact armor. The window is the tiny frontmost part with a vertical face and a chamfer up top jutting out from below the armor panels.

Your previous mercenary painting guide inspired me to do the little freehand regimental icons on my 1st Big MAC and they are so cute! This vid turned out great too, thank you!

Very nice idea and video! Since I love to drybrush, I'd think about a mid or light grey primer, white drybrushing, then washing the model (which should also blend the drybrush texture a bit) and then use speedpaint.

Short and to the point, thank you!!

How many coats did you use for each layer / paint?

If I may ask, what glue did you use for the base? I’ve had some good results using super glue and cotton surprisingly for a good looking rough terrain but I really want to get into doing a good full texture terrain similar to this one

Great tip 🙌 thank you!

Damn dude, this video is great, it's unbelievable that it only got less than 2k views after 7 months, this is extremely good, good job man

can i also use micro mask to cover the parts i want to keep clear? I used to do that to Bandai Star Wars kits.

I think you chose exactly the right green to colour the uniforms but ruined the effect by making the coating to light over the white undercoat. Even after the shade coat the green is too light, I assume that was a speed paint. If I may, I would suggest a grey undercoat so that the uniform adheres more to that dark green the uniforms were actually coloured. Just a suggestion though.

I find when I put a layer or two of the grim black speedpaint over a pure black primer/thin basecoat it gets this super matte black that just seems to absolutely swallow light, which I find absolutely perfect for my guys.

Great step-by-step tutorial; I greatly appreciate you providing the specific paints you used, rather than just a generic color!

Great work. The prices for the metal kits are outrageous. But the old plastic stuff is a baragain. Especially if you buy from a 3rd party store. I decided to use a differnt way and cut the KotR on Foot bodys in half to kitbash my Knights. Also Foot Knights with the old bodies look so much better :D

marvelous!