Pro tip, instead of drawing into your previous spot removal, hit "H", all previous spot edit areas will not get in your way while adding a new one. It's like the best use of the "H" button I have ever come across. Congrats on 1 million brother.
When going to draw in the focus to the centre of a bright image with minimal vignette, I like to go subtle, and combine results. I drop the exposure slightly, drop the contrast slightly, and then desaturate the colour or vibrancy slightly. The aim being to make it barely noticeable, yet when all forms of contrast are combined, it draws the viewer’s eye to where I want.
Nice workflow! (loved how you did an oops by not cleaning up the stop sign reflection) ;) Thanks for explaining that it is OK to leave a tad bit of pure black or white in an image. We often tend to pull the sliders back to totally remove the warning signs and that can be too much. Good video!
I was just going to post the same comment! I felt like I was on hold listening to elevator music while struggling to get some information. I also thought, as a retired teacher now teaching at a university, is this what we’re going to have to do to impart useful information?
Thank you for your valuable tips. The examples are well chosen. The background music is too loud for me personally. That may be due to my high affinity for music.
I'm colorblind and white balance kicks my ass all the time. I find myself doing more B&W than most people would because I just don't trust myself to get colors right. Great video though. Thank you.
Give it a shot anyways. Joel Grimes is colourblind too. He’s known for having punchy photos with colour contrast. What people say makes my work stand out is the punchy colour contrast that draws attention. The reason is because I don’t see full colours much myself. It wasn’t intentional, I just edited the colours until they looked right to me. People love it. You might just wind up creating your own unique style that people like because you see things differently.
#6 Clean backgrounds (at 15 min) when using spot healing brush and want to brush on a spot all ready done hide your pins (short cut key H) then you can brush on it. This way you don't have to start outside the boundary of a previous spot then over it.
White Balance. If you shoot raw only, your white balance setting does not change the raw file. It influences the initial depiction in your raw processing software. I generally have my camera on "Cloudy" and for all outdoors and flash photography this gives a good starting point. You'll notice after some time that the "cloudy" setting gives a better start in say early morning shots or sunset - auto white balance may try to make the color of that moment of the say go away. For critical color work, I shoot a ColorChecker Passport (CCP) before each series in similar lighting conditions and in Lightroom use the dropper to a grey patch and apply the correction to the entire series. When color is even more critical, I run the CCP shot through the matching software so as to create a profile file and apply that to the series. And, bonus, preventing the camera from Auto WB-ing reduces shutter lag ...
These are some great tips! I'd love to know how Pye gets his Lightroom to run so quickly. I've got a high performance machine, but Lightroom is incredibly sluggish for me.
Thank You! What an enjoyable channel - a wealth of knowledge! It's great, to now and then, have a video like this one to tune up and refresh skills. Regarding the 'white balance' - Question: the values on RGB have really to be an equal value? R90.2 G89,0 B90,0, really hard to match! Cheers
Awesome vid. Perhaps for the background music you could just have a drum beat or something very simple as your background music makes me want to mute the video which won't help me learn much.
Hi Pye! What do you think about color profiles as a tool to improve color in your photos? I prefer to use "camera standard" color profile instead of "Adobe color"
very nice tuto. being a vfpreset user and fan, i still have difficulty to understand the way you tune contrast. when i do it myself, i decrese highlight, increase shadow and then, with ALT key i increase white and decrease black. I don't understand how you can have negative whites and positive highlights, especially for such good exposed photo. Can you please explain ?
It depends on the light you are shooting under, daylight temp is usually 5000-5500 Kelvin(flash is typically rated "daylight"), Tungsten would be 3200-3500K, etc....knowing the temps for all the different light sources will help you with a general starting point for a kelvin temp to set your camera at. Which would be "neutral" for that light source. Ideally though, manual white balance for the win.
Nice vid but i feel like ur overcomplicating white balance, as long as u shoot in raw then just slap it on auto in cam n u can fix it in 3 seconds in lightroom. I'd much rather focus on settings i can't change in post.. maybe I'm wrong tho.
I would like to listen and see some9ne ex0lain why diferebts modifiers produce diferebt tons oa skins and flashs too. So what flash and modifier use to take the more real white that we can produce without profotos!))
While I agree that WB is a bit subjective, I feel that at least at the time of capture, you SHOULD try to do your best to get as accurate WB as possible, especially when doing portraits. At least that way you have a reference point to work from (of course if you're shooting only in JPEG I think this is even more important, or at least important to know what WB you want at the time of capture as it's not as flexible as it is with RAW in post processing). I strive to get the most accurate WB, and THEN adjust in post (I also shoot RAW so this makes it a bit easier) but at least that way I have a reference point to go back to, and when possible, I use a grey card (I have a portable one that clips onto my camera bag that's about the size of a credit card). At least this gives me a reference point to start from. But i think a lot of people (especially beginners) forget about this and they carry it through to the exported/final image without thinking about it. Personally, I think everyone (especially those who shoot portraits/people) should have a grey card with them just in case....Landscapes and travel...? You can probably be a bit more flexible as a bit more saturation or warmer tones isn't going to throw off someone's eye, but if skin tones are too warm (or even too cool almost to a point where they might have a blue tint) that will draw attention really quickly on a portrait. (FYI: double-clicking on the word "Tone" above the Exposure slider resets all the sliders to their defaults...)
I've always added a light vignette with the effects-post crop vignetting, how does this differ from the method you showed here, is it not as effective as your method?
The post crop vignette is centralised and symmetrical. Using the radial filter, the centre of the vignette can be located wherever you wish and can be asymmetrical as in this case.
Oh, forgot. About Lightroom. We now have calibration, color grading and curves. Should we use all of them or two of them or choose just one? What are your thought about that?
This is really great info. But the repetitive music is too loud and annoying. It made me not want to watch the video as I was hearing it too much. But great content. Very well done. 👍🏽
Great instructional video but man, lose that obnoxious repeating music. The repeating of the music track throughout the entire video was terribly distacting.
BEST. INTRO. EVER. period.
Pro tip, instead of drawing into your previous spot removal, hit "H", all previous spot edit areas will not get in your way while adding a new one. It's like the best use of the "H" button I have ever come across. Congrats on 1 million brother.
Oh, that's a great tip - thanks!
i was just about to comment this xD
also i would remove the feflection
That's amazing! I've been struggling with that for so long! That's so helpful
Is the bakground music all that necessary?
When going to draw in the focus to the centre of a bright image with minimal vignette, I like to go subtle, and combine results. I drop the exposure slightly, drop the contrast slightly, and then desaturate the colour or vibrancy slightly. The aim being to make it barely noticeable, yet when all forms of contrast are combined, it draws the viewer’s eye to where I want.
Nice workflow!
(loved how you did an oops by not cleaning up the stop sign reflection) ;)
Thanks for explaining that it is OK to leave a tad bit of pure black or white in an image. We often tend to pull the sliders back to totally remove the warning signs and that can be too much.
Good video!
Hahaha, good catch Randy! I totally missed that while recording!
You are an excellent teacher, quick and to the point. Keep them coming
Nicely done. Good reminders. Thanks!
Loved the Transform/Auto tip.
Awesome tutorial, learned new tools....Thanks!
Best lightroom tips I have seen so far. So many things in there I have never seen or used before . Thanks
Most critically useful video I've seen in quite a while...:)
Yes ! Really good tips but you have to reduce the background music
Thank you for a great video with valuable tips, but the background music is annoying.
I was just going to post the same comment! I felt like I was on hold listening to elevator music while struggling to get some information. I also thought, as a retired teacher now teaching at a university, is this what we’re going to have to do to impart useful information?
Congrats on 1M! We regard this channel as a valuable learning resource. Thank you.
I'm glad you included dehaze. I think it's way underutilized.
Thank you for these wonderful tips.
Thank you for your valuable tips. The examples are well chosen. The background music is too loud for me personally. That may be due to my high affinity for music.
The background music made this unwatchable. WTH guys!!
Thank you so much! Such good info!
I'm colorblind and white balance kicks my ass all the time. I find myself doing more B&W than most people would because I just don't trust myself to get colors right. Great video though. Thank you.
Give it a shot anyways. Joel Grimes is colourblind too. He’s known for having punchy photos with colour contrast.
What people say makes my work stand out is the punchy colour contrast that draws attention. The reason is because I don’t see full colours much myself. It wasn’t intentional, I just edited the colours until they looked right to me. People love it.
You might just wind up creating your own unique style that people like because you see things differently.
@@wesjones6370 Great point!
Sean Tucker is another color blind photographer and his colors are beautiful! ❤️
Greatt video! I can do without the repetitive backing track. Great video!
I get a tip for you Pye: to reset any parameter, just double click the label (I saw you struggling trying to double click the tiny cursor)
Or double click on "Tone" (above Exposure) to reset all sliders to their defaults...
Thanks for the work flow Pye!!
Forgot to take out the reflection of the stop sign in the water, thanks for a very interesting video.
Outstanding presentation with valuable tips!
Never knew the change of crop overlay option. So excited to try it out!
Nice job on the reflections callout, I was getting trigger anxious to comment about that! Thank you for the tips!
Thank you for the tips.
Nice.... Good video just started photography about 3 years ago and now i need to learn edits and yours are really natural. I love it.
Great great tips!! Thanks!!
Great tips, thanks Pye!
Pye, on your before and after comparison, the after image shows a reflection of the stop sign in the water after you removed it from behind the model.
#6 Clean backgrounds (at 15 min) when using spot healing brush and want to brush on a spot all ready done hide your pins (short cut key H) then you can brush on it. This way you don't have to start outside the boundary of a previous spot then over it.
Great video.!! I can't wait for the next tutorial. Thanks!!
Will bookmark this link, as my basic go through, even if I'm a Affinity-User. The steps are the same! thank you, great job!!
Awesome video. thank you
White Balance. If you shoot raw only, your white balance setting does not change the raw file. It influences the initial depiction in your raw processing software.
I generally have my camera on "Cloudy" and for all outdoors and flash photography this gives a good starting point. You'll notice after some time that the "cloudy" setting gives a better start in say early morning shots or sunset - auto white balance may try to make the color of that moment of the say go away.
For critical color work, I shoot a ColorChecker Passport (CCP) before each series in similar lighting conditions and in Lightroom use the dropper to a grey patch and apply the correction to the entire series. When color is even more critical, I run the CCP shot through the matching software so as to create a profile file and apply that to the series.
And, bonus, preventing the camera from Auto WB-ing reduces shutter lag ...
Thanks for the explanations and your tips.
Thanks Pye
Phenomenal information
Amazing video!
Thanks for the great tips but I'm another vote about the music, it really made my head hurt 🙁
fantastic, thank you
Thank you, another handy tutorial, appreciate the effort 👍
thanks a ton mate, it's really useful, simple but impressive ✌
This was so helpful, thank you!
Good information, but it may take hours to get that background music track out of my mind. I found the music track very distracting.
Great tips thank you will use them in my workflow :)
Good video
Just the background music is for hypnosis
Great tips
These are some great tips! I'd love to know how Pye gets his Lightroom to run so quickly. I've got a high performance machine, but Lightroom is incredibly sluggish for me.
Excellent Tutorial !
Great tips. Thankyou
15:06 change your tool visibility to Never and then you can draw over the previous healed area. 😉
👌
Or hit "H" to hide the pins, to allow you to draw over an already healed area.
But then you don’t know where your other pins are. Hitting H seems like a better solution
Very interesting 😎
Thank You! What an enjoyable channel - a wealth of knowledge! It's great, to now and then, have a video like this one to tune up and refresh skills. Regarding the 'white balance' - Question: the values on RGB have really to be an equal value? R90.2 G89,0 B90,0, really hard to match! Cheers
Hi good info. There was one thing that bugged me the Signpost reflection looked a bit weird.
thank you so much, very useful
How do I save all those settings so I can apply them for the rest of the photo shoot? Great lesson, I'm obviously new to LR.
This was helpful. God's Masterpiece Photography
Great overall, but... You forgot to remove the stop sign from the reflection.
You rock Pye ...
The white balance/tint tutorial 👌👍
Awesome vid. Perhaps for the background music you could just have a drum beat or something very simple as your background music makes me want to mute the video which won't help me learn much.
Enjoyed that. Quick question. Can you get those crop overlays in Lightroom CC? I can't seem to find them.
Great video 💜
Hi Pye! What do you think about color profiles as a tool to improve color in your photos? I prefer to use "camera standard" color profile instead of "Adobe color"
Great work!!!
Great tips, thanks
Great video for sure
Some great tips, cheers
Amazing!! 🙌
Hi Pye, I have a question about posing (sorry, it's not what this video is about 😦). Do u have any videos about posing families with children? Thanks.
don't forget to repeat clone on the reflections!!!
Music is distracting. Otherwise, good info.
very nice tuto.
being a vfpreset user and fan, i still have difficulty to understand the way you tune contrast. when i do it myself, i decrese highlight, increase shadow and then, with ALT key i increase white and decrease black. I don't understand how you can have negative whites and positive highlights, especially for such good exposed photo. Can you please explain ?
Question. What temperature is considered neutral and why?
It depends on the light you are shooting under, daylight temp is usually 5000-5500 Kelvin(flash is typically rated "daylight"), Tungsten would be 3200-3500K, etc....knowing the temps for all the different light sources will help you with a general starting point for a kelvin temp to set your camera at. Which would be "neutral" for that light source. Ideally though, manual white balance for the win.
amazing stuff
Nice vid but i feel like ur overcomplicating white balance, as long as u shoot in raw then just slap it on auto in cam n u can fix it in 3 seconds in lightroom. I'd much rather focus on settings i can't change in post.. maybe I'm wrong tho.
I would like to listen and see some9ne ex0lain why diferebts modifiers produce diferebt tons oa skins and flashs too. So what flash and modifier use to take the more real white that we can produce without profotos!))
Nice video
Good video, but I note that you forgot to remove the sign between her legs in the reflection.
You miss to clean the reflection of the signal =)
Would have been nice to have removed the reflections of the sign, overall some good tips, thank you for sharing 👏👏
Yeah it is funny how I can look at an image and about the 10th time I'll see something that I missed 9 times LOL
Great movie!
Love the background music! Don’t listen to the haters, they’ve got beef against lofi
While I agree that WB is a bit subjective, I feel that at least at the time of capture, you SHOULD try to do your best to get as accurate WB as possible, especially when doing portraits. At least that way you have a reference point to work from (of course if you're shooting only in JPEG I think this is even more important, or at least important to know what WB you want at the time of capture as it's not as flexible as it is with RAW in post processing). I strive to get the most accurate WB, and THEN adjust in post (I also shoot RAW so this makes it a bit easier) but at least that way I have a reference point to go back to, and when possible, I use a grey card (I have a portable one that clips onto my camera bag that's about the size of a credit card). At least this gives me a reference point to start from. But i think a lot of people (especially beginners) forget about this and they carry it through to the exported/final image without thinking about it. Personally, I think everyone (especially those who shoot portraits/people) should have a grey card with them just in case....Landscapes and travel...? You can probably be a bit more flexible as a bit more saturation or warmer tones isn't going to throw off someone's eye, but if skin tones are too warm (or even too cool almost to a point where they might have a blue tint) that will draw attention really quickly on a portrait.
(FYI: double-clicking on the word "Tone" above the Exposure slider resets all the sliders to their defaults...)
You can infact use the clone tool over the same area. You simple hide the points. I do it all the time.
I've always added a light vignette with the effects-post crop vignetting, how does this differ from the method you showed here, is it not as effective as your method?
The post crop vignette is centralised and symmetrical. Using the radial filter, the centre of the vignette can be located wherever you wish and can be asymmetrical as in this case.
models should always have a shot with a grey card to make white balance easy
My main concern is the pole reflection on water - that is missed out :(
I don't understand the difference between raw and jpeg. I edit both and get similar results.
Oh, forgot. About Lightroom. We now have calibration, color grading and curves. Should we use all of them or two of them or choose just one? What are your thought about that?
Stop sign is still in the water reflection
Great tips, but I found the music very annoying. (I wanted to spot remove it.)
This is really great info. But the repetitive music is too loud and annoying. It made me not want to watch the video as I was hearing it too much. But great content. Very well done. 👍🏽
Great instructional video but man, lose that obnoxious repeating music. The repeating of the music track throughout the entire video was terribly distacting.
All is well... except for that irritating MIDI loop
Dont forget to clean the reflection 😹
Excellent and informative video. The repetitive musical dribble in the background is cruel and unusual punishment!