Hello, I just checked this feed and saw your comment. As far as a list, I don’t know if I can. I just go to Lowe’s and buy a bunch of stuff so that when I take it home, I can find a part that works and don’t have to go back to Lowe’s. I used some simple L brackets and long threaded bolts to hang it from the ceiling. Bought several 1/2 inch black pipe connectors and fittings to get the length and shape I wanted, and some simple 1/2 yellow gas flex tube to connect the gas. It’s a little trial and error to get it right. Then some basic wire to connect the thermostat (which is a nightmare in its self) and I’m all set. The heater works great, and it’s wifi. I can start or stop it from anywhere. Thanks for the watch. Hopefully this helps.
How’s it going. My pipe is double wall pipe that can handle more heat. The guy at Homedepot that helped me, said I didn’t need a thimble if I used dual wall pipe. But I’ve learned since then that a thimble should still be used. I have since fixed it. But I did test the wall with a heat gun and it did not register very hot even with the unit running for house. But, safe is safe.
I see that you also have an infared gas heater. I'm assuming it wasn't enough and you had to upgrade. Can you explain why you added the new forced air and how it has helped. Where do you live, how much is your garage insulated? Thanks
I have an 800sf shop on Ann Arbor Michigan. The infrared heater I had was rated for my size but didn’t work to heat the whole shop. The concrete floor acts like a huge cooler in the winter and it takes the infrared too long to heat the concrete to provide radiant heat. Mainly because I don’t use my shop 24/7. I only use it on weekends and small periods of time. Perhaps if I left it on for the whole season it would be perfect. So I added the forced gas heater with fan to heat the shop faster. I moved the infrared to right above my assembly area to provide direct heat. NOTE: I installed the infrared at the ceiling joists about 8’ in the air, perhaps if this heater was up higher it would cover a larger area to heat quicker. But not sure.
The instruction manual list two different minimums in the same section. It uses a 3’ minimum and a 5’ minimum. However, I have a 5’ run anyways. 2 1/2’ inside and 2 1/2’ outside. So I do meet that requirement.
I have a question I bought the Mr. Heater Big Maxx heater I want to vent horizontaly the manual shows the vent needs to have a 1/4 inch rise per foot of slope upwards towards the termination, but to me it makes more sense to slope down towards outside so it will drain any condensation build up. Did you add a slope to yours? Sorry for the long question hopefully you can help me with question. Thanks
I had the same thought you did. I put a very slight slope down in mine. I even drilled a couple holes at the end of the straight pipe before venting up for 1 or 2 feet so that any condensation or water could drain out. Mine vents straight out the back for maybe 3 feet at most, then 90 degrees straight up to keep rain water out. It’s a short run.
Oh, sorry. I thought you meant gas pipe. I used double wall vent pipe. Don’t remember the brand. Also from Homedepot. But I have learned since that most people use “Z” pipe, which I believe is single wall. Mine is double walled pipe so disperses heat very well. However, in the video I did not use a thimble. You should always use a thimble when putting pipe through a wall.
Did you burn down your house yet? You don't meet the combustion clearances of the Z-Vent which requires a wall thimble. Is that even Z-Vent, I can't tell.
Thank you for the comment. I went to double check this in the manual. That is Z-vent. I am no Heater expert. The Heater guy at Home Depot said I did not need a thimble if I use the dual wall vent pipe. I should have known better. I always thought that was close. I did spray fire block foam throughout the opening as a safeguard. But I will be installing a thimble, thanks to you.
@@joeyshardwood8234 ZVent is single wall right? Mine is. The Mr Heater manual mentions combustion clearance I think. I would never ask anyone at Home Depot for advice. Good decision to create some air gap between your vent and plywood. I got my thimble at supplyhouse.com and received it in 24 hours. My home depot doesn't sell ZVent so I got it all online.
My pipe is double walled pipe. That I know for sure. So perhaps it’s not z-vent. I’ll have to check. I thought z-vent was double walled pipe. I researched what you said and I now know for sure that I need a thimble. So thanks again. I took my temp gun to it and saw that the wall touching my pipe is about 93 degrees. Out side temp was about 35 today. The pipe outside was only 60 degrees. Still to hot for my peace of mind. I might redo all the pipe to meet code. I won’t trust homedepot again.
@@joeyshardwood8234 you probably bought B-vent which isn't a class 3 vent. You need the pipe with the gasket. It's right in the manual. Z-vent is also stainless. B-vent does not provide the air tight seal required for horizontal venting. B-vent does not require a thimble but b-vent is not correct for this heater.
You should always make sure that the hole you need to make in the wall for the exhaust is not going to be where a vertigo 2" x 4' STUD lands.
Looks great!
Looks good. Don’t need the goofy music. I’d rather have you explain things
Looks great Joey. Can you provide a list of parts used for installation?
Hello, I just checked this feed and saw your comment. As far as a list, I don’t know if I can. I just go to Lowe’s and buy a bunch of stuff so that when I take it home, I can find a part that works and don’t have to go back to Lowe’s. I used some simple L brackets and long threaded bolts to hang it from the ceiling. Bought several 1/2 inch black pipe connectors and fittings to get the length and shape I wanted, and some simple 1/2 yellow gas flex tube to connect the gas. It’s a little trial and error to get it right. Then some basic wire to connect the thermostat (which is a nightmare in its self) and I’m all set. The heater works great, and it’s wifi. I can start or stop it from anywhere. Thanks for the watch. Hopefully this helps.
Has the place burnt down yet? No wall thimble? Is that even category 3 vent pipe?
How’s it going. My pipe is double wall pipe that can handle more heat. The guy at Homedepot that helped me, said I didn’t need a thimble if I used dual wall pipe. But I’ve learned since then that a thimble should still be used. I have since fixed it. But I did test the wall with a heat gun and it did not register very hot even with the unit running for house. But, safe is safe.
I see that you also have an infared gas heater. I'm assuming it wasn't enough and you had to upgrade. Can you explain why you added the new forced air and how it has helped. Where do you live, how much is your garage insulated? Thanks
I have an 800sf shop on Ann Arbor Michigan. The infrared heater I had was rated for my size but didn’t work to heat the whole shop. The concrete floor acts like a huge cooler in the winter and it takes the infrared too long to heat the concrete to provide radiant heat. Mainly because I don’t use my shop 24/7. I only use it on weekends and small periods of time. Perhaps if I left it on for the whole season it would be perfect. So I added the forced gas heater with fan to heat the shop faster. I moved the infrared to right above my assembly area to provide direct heat. NOTE: I installed the infrared at the ceiling joists about 8’ in the air, perhaps if this heater was up higher it would cover a larger area to heat quicker. But not sure.
Isn’t a 5’ minimum vent length required ?
The instruction manual list two different minimums in the same section. It uses a 3’ minimum and a 5’ minimum. However, I have a 5’ run anyways. 2 1/2’ inside and 2 1/2’ outside. So I do meet that requirement.
I have a question I bought the Mr. Heater Big Maxx heater I want to vent horizontaly the manual shows the vent needs to have a 1/4 inch rise per foot of slope upwards towards the termination, but to me it makes more sense to slope down towards outside so it will drain any condensation build up. Did you add a slope to yours? Sorry for the long question hopefully you can help me with question. Thanks
I had the same thought you did. I put a very slight slope down in mine. I even drilled a couple holes at the end of the straight pipe before venting up for 1 or 2 feet so that any condensation or water could drain out. Mine vents straight out the back for maybe 3 feet at most, then 90 degrees straight up to keep rain water out. It’s a short run.
@@joeyshardwood8234 thanks for the reply 👍
Can you tell me if it runs off of natural gas or propane?
This runs off natural gas. I ran a 1/2 inch line from my house to my shop.
joey nice job what brand pipe did you use and fitting to go from the unit to the pipe
Thanks. However, I don’t remember what parts I used. Just standard gas plumbing parts from Homedepot.
For the venting
Oh, sorry. I thought you meant gas pipe. I used double wall vent pipe. Don’t remember the brand. Also from Homedepot. But I have learned since that most people use “Z” pipe, which I believe is single wall. Mine is double walled pipe so disperses heat very well. However, in the video I did not use a thimble. You should always use a thimble when putting pipe through a wall.
Did you burn down your house yet? You don't meet the combustion clearances of the Z-Vent which requires a wall thimble. Is that even Z-Vent, I can't tell.
Thank you for the comment. I went to double check this in the manual. That is Z-vent. I am no Heater expert. The Heater guy at Home Depot said I did not need a thimble if I use the dual wall vent pipe. I should have known better. I always thought that was close. I did spray fire block foam throughout the opening as a safeguard. But I will be installing a thimble, thanks to you.
@@joeyshardwood8234 ZVent is single wall right? Mine is. The Mr Heater manual mentions combustion clearance I think. I would never ask anyone at Home Depot for advice. Good decision to create some air gap between your vent and plywood. I got my thimble at supplyhouse.com and received it in 24 hours. My home depot doesn't sell ZVent so I got it all online.
I was wrong, the combustion clearance requirements are in the Z-Vent manual
My pipe is double walled pipe. That I know for sure. So perhaps it’s not z-vent. I’ll have to check. I thought z-vent was double walled pipe. I researched what you said and I now know for sure that I need a thimble. So thanks again. I took my temp gun to it and saw that the wall touching my pipe is about 93 degrees. Out side temp was about 35 today. The pipe outside was only 60 degrees. Still to hot for my peace of mind. I might redo all the pipe to meet code. I won’t trust homedepot again.
@@joeyshardwood8234 you probably bought B-vent which isn't a class 3 vent. You need the pipe with the gasket. It's right in the manual. Z-vent is also stainless. B-vent does not provide the air tight seal required for horizontal venting. B-vent does not require a thimble but b-vent is not correct for this heater.
OMG, You should never put pipe sealer on the female side of a fitting.