How to Install a Garage Heater
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- Опубліковано 9 лис 2021
- In this video I show a complete install of a garage shop heater. The unit I am using is a 50,000 btu Mr. Heater. I go through all the steps of hanging the heater, venting, gas pipe, as well as hooking up the electrical and getting it running.
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The book provides clear illustrations ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO diagrams that cover many of the essential topics. The projects at the end of the book are valuable for enhancing your skills and creating your own furniture. A digital platform linked to the book that could offer the plans for other woodworking projects with the cut sheets would have been a nice addition, but overall, the book is excellent.
1/2 inch?
Nice job man. You did everything right. You used the correct horizontal stainless steel vent pipe and your gas piping is spot on.
Thanks, glad to hear that!
I watched your video specifically to find out about what gas line to buy. Unfortunately he decided to skip over that part! Lol. So here I stand in the store, ready to search through another 20 minute video to find the five seconds for information I need!
Looks great! Thank you so much for sharing!
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
Great video and nice installation!!
Glad it was helpful!
Great no nonsense tutorial
. Much appreciated.
Glad you enjoyed it, and thanks for the comment!
Nice job. I installed my heater (different brand) (4) years ago. Followed the instructions exactly. I studied the instructions very carefully, and still struggled with the procedure-vent pipe type etc.
The manufacturer was very difficult to get info from, I understand liability, so only email, no phone conversation. My heater recommended the same Cat 3 stainless steel single wall vent you used with 1/4" per foot drop. My install was exactly like yours. Thank you very much, your video has eased my mind, knowing I did it correctly. Even set the end cap horizontally like yours. I had the gas company do all the gas piping. To all viewers, please be careful, I saw a diagram at Menards that showed the vent angled "up". This is obviously for a different heater and vent type, so study the instructions. Thanks again.
The menards directions are correct and follow the manufacture with the vent pointing/tilting up.
It should sloped up towards the termination point (outside).
Cheers from Mn!
The fan turns on after the heat exchanger has reached the optimal temperature for heating. You would get a bunch of incomplete combustion while it was getting up to temperature if it fired the burner and the blower at the same time.
Ok, thanks for the info! That makes sense and now I know I have it hooked up correctly.
That’s not exactly true. While it is delayed to allow the heat exchanger to come up to temp, it has more to do with comfort (ie not blowing cold air around) than it does with combustion. The combustion fan and main fan are completely different air paths and don’t intersect with each other. You could run the main fan 24/7 and never affect combustion.
Also, once temp is reached or satisfied, the blower will continue to run a few minutes to help cool the heat exchanger (by design).
Should there be any smell at all that the unit will put off, besides the first the first startup?
@@jman3480 what kind of smell? You shouldn’t smell anything.
Great install, I like the angled 2x6 and threaded rod. Do you have any info on your propane tank set-up?
Thanks Shane! Yeah, the threaded rod was for sure the way to go. A propane company set the whole tank up for me. I just stubbed out the 1/2" black pipe outside my garage and they hooked up from there. They set a 100 gallon tank right behind my garage and ran a piece of soft copper from the tank regulator to my black pipe I had stubbed out. Works great!
Hi Chad, I have installed 3 of these units, first off when you turn your thermostat up it lights the burner then the inducer motor starts up, When it gets up to temperature the big fan comes on and blows the heat. One thing I didn't hear you mention is you have to pitch your exhaust pipe a 1/4" per foot until you reach the outside wall or the condensation from the heater will run back into the inducer motor and ruin it. The first one I installed I learned the hard way 2 years later the motor went bad and it cost me $300.00 they would not warranty it as they said the heater was not properly installed so I just want to point it out. Was a good video thanks
Thanks for the comment, I did this on my install but must have forgot to mention it in the video. Hopefully people read the instruction along with watching videos like these.
@Faith Howard pitch it downwards so the water runs away from the furnace and go outside.
Mr heater installation manual says pointed up towards the termination
@@Hbombre that's wrong. My manual says the same. Only pitch it up if you have a drain line attached to the pipe. Otherwise pitch it down so the condensate runs out of the hood.
Calvincox567 already mentioned it but there is another thing you can do too. To re-iterate, The heat exchanger has to heat up first before the blower comes on. Your furnace to your home should be doing that too. The other thing is that I put mine a stick, a 1x3 or something like that. Your thermostat probably says it must be level. Here is a 2 part trick. The thermostat is on the stick to get away from a cold wall so that it reads temps in the garage and not colder wall temps. Here is the other trick, I put that stick in place with only one screw at the top of the stick. This allows me to swing the stick to adjust the level of the thermostat. I used a second screw to limit the swing. This allows a preset "new" calibration of the thermostat. The thermostat will only go down so far, mine is 50 degrees. I live in Chicago where temps get to -20 or colder and the cars may not start. By swinging the thermostat, I can now turn that 50 degrees minim temp to 30 or less so that I dont have to heat the garage to 50 degrees to start the car. I actually have my limiter to where I can maintain a minimum temp of 0 degrees and my car will start ok To recalibrate the thermostat to normal I only have to push it the opposite way to the limiting screw I have screwed in on the other side of the joist that the stick is mounted to. By using this swing method, I can change my thermostat in about 1 second so that I dont have to heat my garage my garage to a minmum of 50. Of course you could adjust yours to whereever you want. I put that thermostat a little higher than normal so it is out of the way. I actually have a 120,000 btu Bryant that I got only 4 years old and rarely used as a supplemental heater in a carpet warehouse. I got it for only 200 bucks. I know 120,000 is way high but I take the chill out in only 10 minutes on a very cold day. This way it doesnt run for an hour or more to reach temps. It is there almost immediately when I need it and is not something that I have to plan on hours earlier. I like your heater. It should be good for you. My friend uses a 30,000 in his garage. It works great but takes a while to warm everything up, especially if he brings in his cold car from the outside. Good luck.
Thanks for all the info and tips!
Regarding the blower it is correct the heater should heat up to heat exchanger a bit before the fan comes on usually about 60 to 90 sec delay
I got it all figured out now, thanks!
there's fan timer delay which is normal. Once the heat exchanger reaches temp the fan will engage. R and W is your heat cycle and G is your fan. The fourth wire I have no clue what that was for lol
Thanks for the info, I appreciate it!
Did you have to make any further adjustments to the gas pressure once you fired it up?
Nope, it has worked perfectly the last few months keeping my garage at 50 degrees. I guess I lucked out!
Nice video and Install. I’m putting the same unit in my garage. Curious why you ran the rigid supply line all the way to the unit instead of flex pipe for the last couple of feet. The rigid pipe would be much more prone to leaks in the event of earthquake or if the unit was bumped or knocked around.
I was just following the directions it came with, so I followed that. I didn't even think about using flex line, but that would have been a little easier. The way I did it really wasn't that difficult. I live in MN so earthquakes are not a concern.
Plumber here, in western PA, we don’t have to worry about earthquakes so we are allowed to run hard lines all the way to the appliance, I’ve done it for furnaces, water heaters, and pool heaters. But anymore, I usually run 2 or 3 feet of flex at the connection. Saves customer money on the install and makes it easier for the next guy when it needs replaced.
I would have just used a flex line instead of Union. I probably would have put leg at inlet too. But I guess either works.
I just got the same heater, I’m using the same pipe as you, but I can’t find the right part for the first connection from the heater? Can you tell me the part number for that heat fab style pipe?
I don't have a part number, but I thought the small section of pipe coming out of the heater is the same size as the rest of the pipe you would use. So you just use a standard connection end for the heater, just like you would use if you are connected two pieces of pipe together
Did you use a double wall venting pipe or no? Seeing you have the wall thimble, does that act as the double wall venting pipe?
I am no expert at this, but I believe what I used was just a single walled category 3 stainless steel piping material. The thimble does seem to act like a second wall so my drywall and siding don't get too hot from the vent pipe.
You should’ve run a flex pipe at the very end of the run into the heater so any movements you’re never going to get a gas leak the flex pipe absorbs all the start up stop start up stop I’ll look into that and maybe change it
Hey Chad--Great video. Very clear presentation.Just a few questions: How big is your shop? How insulated is it and how cold does it get where you live? I live in Maine is choosing the right unit will be really important. Lastly, how much did the whole install run you? Thanks.
Hello Jim, my shop is a little under 700 sq. Ft I have r13 insulation in the walls and r19 in the ceiling. I live in Minnesota and plan on added more blown in insulation this summer. I would guess it cost me around $800 for the whole set up and propane tank setup. I actually just called today for my first propane refill for my 100 gallon tank.
I’m looking at installing this in my garage. The previous home owner had a heater mounted similar to how you did it. Any concerns with the 2x6 coming free?
Hello, If you use some lag screws with the 2 x 6's and make sure you are screwing them into the roof trusses, I don't think there is anything to worry about. Just one lag screw can hold 100's of lbs if it is long enough.
I'm debating if I want use the concentric combustion box with fresh air intake. It's an extra 500.00
I would keep things as cheap and simple as possible. I don't thing any of this type of equipment will really last to long before needing replacement
Did you use mr heater horizontal vent kit and what size gas line did you use?
Hello, I didn't use the mr heater brand. I think the brand I used was duravent frome Menard. I believe it was 1/2 gas line. You can download the manual for these units, it will tell you forsure. The higher btu units might need a 3/4 inch line, so you will want to double check that. Good luck!
What is needed to connect the cat 3 vent pipe to the actual heater?
I believe it was called a slip connector that I used. There is a small piece of vent pipe sticking out of the heater so I used the same type of connector piece that I used to just connect one section of pipe to the other.
Check Local code, you should have an appliance flex from the rigid gasline to the unit heater
Thanks for the tip...this is good advice. I just followed what the instructions for the heater said, but local codes should be checked out as well.
The fan will not come on until the heat sensor says it should. Keeps the unit from blowing air while starting and blowing cold air. Works great
That makes sense, thanks!
Was your vent sloped up or down? If down to the heater as described in the comment below, how does it drain? Mine slopes down to the outside, and during the cold winter, I have a small ice mound in the yard. Thanks
I am pretty sure I sloped it going to the ouside. I haven't noticed any ice mounds...put I guess I haven't really looked. It does put out some nice heat!
can this be piped into my existing hot water heater vent with a tee?
Sorry, I'm not sure...you would have to ask a professional HVAC guy on that.
The ear protection. Love it. Those 20v impact drills can blow your whole drum smooth out the side of your head !! Be careful buddy. Especially when they're brand spankin new like that, and every other tool in that shop. Tools that unfortunately don't come with that heater turns out. Damn. Back to Lowe's 😆 But when he lifts the safety goggles after hand tightening the bolt , that was it for me 💀
Did you buy the vent kit or just individual pieces or did it all come with heater?
Hello, I bought the individual pieces
What brand of caulking did you use?
I used Meeco high temp silicone for the vent pipe and quad max for the siding.
You used a plug? Dosent have to me hardwired with a shut off switch sir?
Yep, just used a plug. Not sure about the shut off switch part
The blower won't come on until the heat exchanger reaches a certain temperature so it doesn't blow cold air! So it's normal for the burner to come on for a while first
Ok, thanks for the information...I appreciate it!
Just ordered this heater my self ... what's the minimum distance from the heater to the ceiling ? Also the minimum distance from the wall to the heater? Lets say finished wall and ceiling .
I think you can download the manual from Mr. Heaters website and get all the info there, Good luck!
@@chaddiy3512 made me do some reading lol .. 1 inch from the ceiling, 18 inch each back corner from the wall , (vertical venting) will need at least 3 ft for horizontal (venting) 8 feet from floor to bottom of Heater .. I almost used the 3/8 rod method but my garage is only 9 feet tall. Info. for others .. good video thanks for sharing
What Cox said, fan should kick on 30 seconds after ignition
I got it figured out now, Thanks!
For anyone thinking of doing this. Use 2 pulleys that you temorarily install to hoist it up then fit it in place.
Fan doesn’t turn on right away because the burner tubes have to warm up then it hits say temperature probe that tells the fan to turn on
Ok, thanks for the info!
My only question is why would you want a heater on the ceiling? I see the vents facing down, but heat rises, so it seems like your heat may never reach your legs? It seems like you would want something on the floor or mid to lower wall.
Hello Terry, I think the main reason everyone installs these types of heaters up high is because of how much space they take up. If you installed them lower, you would lose a lot of floor space and you could have a chance of gas, oil, chemicals accidentally getting too close to the burner.
Gas hangs low to flow keep furnace high not to suck in gas fumes
Installation instructions say the heater must be a minimum of 8 feet from the floor to be code compliant.
It disconnects after two minutes and works again and it does the same thing throughout the day and it does not reach the required temperature. I changed the ventilation tube and the same problem. I don't know if there is a defect in the industry or is there something else if you have the solution I hope you will let me know thank you
Hello, sorry about your problems. The first thing I would try is a new wall thermostat and see if that makes a difference. Also, making sure you have the right kit for either natural gas or propane. Good luck!
To lift the heater to the ceiling and maneuver it in place, rent a drywall lift. It's well worth the forty or so bucks for a one day rental, especially if you're a one man/woman show.
That would be the best way to do it, Thanks for the tip!
Why did you keep it so far from the back wall?
Hello, I think in the install instructions it said there was a minimum distance it needed to be from the wall...so I just followed that
Did the heater come loose yet?
Not that I've noticed...now I might check though
Did you go to Two Harbors high school
Yep...class of 2000!
Us longer threaded rods then cut them shorter after
Great tip, thanks for that!
After watching your video, I when and purchased the “Heat Stare 80,000 BTU” at Princess Auto. We had to convert it to Propane (included in the kit w/bigger Jet .042 and a different regulator spring.) Then we have calibrated it to 10” as per instructions. …“This is the worse Heater I ever installed in my career.” There is more heat going out the vent than the front of the heater. My conclusion is about 20% front heat and 80% wasted heat out to the vent. What a waste of our time. The next day I returned it to Princess Auto for a full refund. I recommend you check yours.
Different heater.....
How much is the gas bill for this heater
I have used about 200 gallons of propane so far this year. The cost of that really depends on where you live.
I live in Michigan
Nice job. But who pronounces caulk that way?
Thanks, I guess I pronounce it the kid friendly way
@@chaddiy3512 LOL
What did this roughly cost for the whole install?
Hi Chris, I think I spent around $800 for everything, including the cost of the heater
I quit watching as soon as he said he's never installed a unit heater, never vented. At least thanks for the honesty.
He did a great job
You didn’t put a flashing on the green treated board outside
Yeah, I suppose there should be some metal flashing on the top of the pressure treated atleast... good tip!
Sounds loud