What a horrendous example of a 911! Obviously it shows that you enjoy a challenge 😊 Thank you for sharing your craftsmanship with the world. I truly enjoy your channel!
This one just goes on and on. You do one repair and the next panel is not what it seems but just another cover over a further rusted area. It can be a pain to work all day only to find another problem. You are doing a great job Steve
You are an artist sir. I especially enjoy watching you transform flat sheet metal into art. I almost wish I had a rusted out whatever so I could become your customer, but since I live in sunny Indonesia and ride motorcycles.......that will not happen. Watching your work is simply, sheet metal therapy for the mind and soul. Wish you all the best, in this crazy world, you are the real deal.
Steve, as always a treatise on how to repair and replace corrosion affected panels and structural components.. and how many ways a pre-existing bodge up, can be sculptured! Always learn a lot and admire how you and your team go about your business! You simply make what at times, must be frustratingly painful to you, look like fun. Thanks as always.
Great content guys, keep at it. This channel will keep growing, I believe it will get huge one day! To do this work is a talent in itself but to document it as well as you do is brilliant.
I didn’t even recognized the kidney bracket area at first. What a terrible cover up job. Great to see you do it the right way and don’t get discouraged . Keep those video coming, they are great. Cheers from Canada
Yet, another awesome learning tutorial, thanks Steve for showing your metal magic ,so cool to watch, even though I miss the comedy show the two Ronnie's 30yrs ago you must remember Steve, I would rather watch you and Ryan's performance when you work together. Thanks Steve for the knowledge.
That laser video Edd made kinda spoiled us, didn't it? Issue is YCR already talked about not actually charging all that much for their work, all said'n done a laser costs 25-50k so would be outright impossible given their income. The lasers don't fully remove the rust too, and do leave pitted areas with sorta semi-deactivated rust, they also don't give a sense for how thin the metal actually is. A neat little 5 gallon pot pressurized Sandblaster wouldn't be a bad investment though, if not a bit messy (nothing a bit of masking work won't fix), because it doesn't leave untreated pits, and flexes the panel a bit for a good ballpark idea of strength. Laser or blaster, at the end of the day they just need to get the rust outta there instead of contaminating fresh steel with rust picked up by grinding disc. The repairs themselves are fine though! 😁
I personally have found a large percentage of classic cars. They might be shiny on the outside but rusty underneath. Then you feel bad when you inform the customer how badly it's been repaired. I am sure you have had the same, but we still love classic cars. Keep up the good work lads
Bit of a 'Triggers broom' this car. I'm sure it's going to be great in the end, but thats a hell of a lot of work. The owner made a great choice sending it to you guys to sort out. I bet his bill is going to sting a bit!
Being able to fabricate the panels makes all the difference here - Aircooled VW inner front wings are about £1-200 a side.The cheapest I can find the same panel for a Porsche 911/912 is over £600 :(
You make it look so easy! Wish I had the skills to do this but I will stick to mechanics. I do have a man Astra GSI in need of bodywork if you guys are keen? 😉 Andy
Wow I'm amazed everytime I watch your videos I had no idea unibody construction cars had so much built into them for strength like inside the rocker panels I've got a jaguar and it has rusted out floor pans and frame rails that comes down the bulkhead and turned back and goes down the undercarriage till past the front doors the inside of my frame rails are completely gone on both sides were they turned to a ninety degrees and go down the car but I noticed my rocker panels don't have any thing on the inside of them they are hollow..I'm going to fix the frame rails and construct a full perimeter chassis gonna be hard but I think I have it almost figured out..thanks for all the uploads you guys are the best 👌
Brilliant work as usual. When does it get to the point when you say. It ain't worth it 😂. Doing some work on my jaguar mk2, what thickness steel do you recommend for the chassis rails?
if its worth doing for the customer then its worth doing it to us , we hardly ever give up on a classic car and we are also always up for a challenge :)
Those who welded that car before you don't deserve their cup of tea. Disaster Porsche? Anyways, always a pleasure to watch you work and keep up the good work:)
Glad you are practising on cars other than Mazdas with sills - just hope people realise most older cars have the same issue and it should NOT put them off buying which ever car you are repairing.
The chassis of this 911 is a total wreck. Even with all the really good repairs I would not be keen to own this. May the owner enjoy it and have fun. Nice to watch the step by step improvements. 👍🏻👍🏻
Fantastic stuff again Steve 👍👍 Really feel for the owner of this car who seems to get a right kicking at every cut you make! But guess he's re-assured that at least your doing the right thing for him and taking no chances! Keep up the good work! P.S Any plans for some vids on the S800?
One huge takeaway and lesson learned here is to never overlay sheet metal over original sheet metal. When you make repairs, to make sure you aren't sealing up drain and vent holes. They are there for a reason folks! Steve, even that heat exchange pipe needs replacing. It's rotted too! This gives new meaning to pealing back the onion. There is so much work to be done just in this sill area. Some of the new sheet metal parts don't even look the same as what you are cutting out. Major boddgery has been done. Are you trying to compete with Ryan on who has the worst disaster restoration? Lol.
Makes you wonder how many of these high end classics that enter the auction circuits and look stunning (with estimate valuations to match), have this level of corrosion lurking underneath...🤔🤷🏼♂️🥴
most of your dedication and skill is on cars that would have been crushed, you guys are saviours, not many left . could i hire a spot welder to repair my cycleing shorts, they always fail in the crutch. no not like Long John Silver, a bit more closer
Well Stevie, the previous entry is just about spot on. That being the case there is nothing else for it but to visit yer local pub and get a couple of tankards of that John Smith's amber nectar we keep hearing about up here. We recon it's over rated BTW.
My bosses old s type jaguar the welder pulled out road signs paper mache and a ton and a half of fibreglass/ filler all hidden under a very nice paint after seeing that it changes your perception of what lies beneath 😳 have so much respect for you guys that actually cut the all the rust out and take pride in your craft👍
The rockers and kidney bowls are known trouble spots for 911s of this vintage. Ask me how I know, lol. I see you've got replacement panels... But it looks like you've got a good amount of work ahead of you with the surrounding metal. Keen to see the next step, good luck!
It's a "G-Bodied" car, so could be late 70's to end of the 80's. Probably around 40 years old. All 911's have been fully galvanised since 1976, but the real issue is the dirt/grime accumulates under the wheel arches and kidney bowls - I spent many hours cleaning up mine. Fender liners would have helped, but were only added starting with the 964 (1989.)
@@dra911 Thanks for quick reply-i don't know my 911's but the Carrera script sorta suggested to me that sort of era. Frightening how far the shell can deteriorate internally whilst still looking acceptable from the outside
Heater tubes..they get heat from the mufflers ..they then send it up to cab to warm the inside..defrost the windows..and any fool inside in cold weather...
Misery misery misery, i'm now unfortunately having to redo my half arse job i did 3 years ago. I can't be to hard on myself though as i done it outside in all types of weather the with no cover, poor lighting, not the amount of tools i have now along with a real bad flux core welder. What's really bothered me is that i cleaned every where on the underside rear then applied waxoil that used to work but i did a scrap test and patched of rust where forming under it, the etch primer may have did something odd. Also what rust converter do you use? I've tried Vactan that was useless, didn't penetrate the rust pores just did the surface and left a film. Used 30% Phosphoric Acid, did okay but a pain to neutralise/clean also attacks the good metal slightly also to thin. Currently using using Fertan, best so far as it seem to penetrate the pores but the metal does rust again in a dusty way.
Just thought I'd throw this in. I have tried all the rust converters over the years and was recommended Fertan by a friend of mine who has been a pro restorer for 20 years. It is the best I have come across without doubt, BUT.. there is only one real remedy which is to cut out the rusted steel and weld in new. Trouble is, the welded steel now rusts way quicker and easier than the original, so lots of attention and effort has to be given, particularly to the back or blind side. Fertan reckon that after treatment you can safely leave the project for a long time, but I find this not to be the case. The art with Fertan is to keep it wet for as long as possible, at least 24 hours, this gives a better penetration into the rust pits. Also thorough degreasing pays off massively. If you have a section that it is simply impractical to cut out and replace, then degrease to death, treat with Fertan, wash off any excess, dry thoroughly and encapsulate with Rustbuster Epoxy Mastic (www.rust.co.uk), treat the back with a good cavity wax, I prefer Dinitrol but I'm sure there are loads of good ones, and hope for the best!
@@bobfrankish8883 Pretty much hit the nail on the head on all aspects, my exact procedures. I've used the Fertan on areas that have mild pitting and chopped out the rest that i have access to, cavity wax in all rear areas. It's unfortunate that Honda didn't apply cavity wax from the factory.
But what work and above all not to be discouraged. It is a mille-feuille of rust and you are, on the scale of the car, watchmakers. What is the function, the usefulness, of the cylindrical shaped components at the base of the doors? Courage and Patience, congratulations in any case. Bonjour de Paris
Thanks for sharing these videos. If you have the opportunity, please show more details. Absolutely everything is interesting in the process of your work.
Will there be any original metal left?😂. Great work Steve and a thumbs down to whoever did prior work on this car, very shoddy. Love that you are bringing it back from the dead.
My bosses ebay bought restored jaguar is even worse actually makes that look solid, paper mache and everything hidden under a lovely paint job, our welder is fully demoralised with that jaguar, long story short don't buy any classic without viewing them first and take a magnet with you!!
Hiya Steve more quality repairs and putting somebody's bodge jobs right excellent work as always maybe this 911 will give the disaster Datsun a run for its money on the dreaded tin worm stakes as well as performance love the channel and what you guys do keep up the great work ♥️👌👌👍
And I thought the front was bad lol, I thought all Porsche's where galvanized metal Like my 1978 924 was. This Porsche is like one of those Russian dolls every time you remove one there is more under it lol...
At what point does this car get put in the bin? You have basically replaced everything on the car. Is this car something special? Love your work though.
I took a welcome break from fixing rust on cars, erm, to fix rust on an Iveco motorhome instead today. Iveco was, in fairness, such a doddle compared to the curves & swerves on cars. That Porch-ster will be a lot faster once ye are done, what with the weight-reduction gains from all the filler being on the floor. :-) Bet yer glad you cleaned up that door-shut so well before cutting it off & binning it... I do love when I do that.. :-)
What a horrendous example of a 911! Obviously it shows that you enjoy a challenge 😊
Thank you for sharing your craftsmanship with the world.
I truly enjoy your channel!
JEEZ....most would have scrapped this, but you are the Legend.
haha thank you Steven :)
This one just goes on and on. You do one repair and the next panel is not what it seems but just another cover over a further rusted area. It can be a pain to work all day only to find another problem. You are doing a great job Steve
yes you are definitly right Eddie, this one seems to be taking forever to clean up ready for new metal haha
You are an artist sir. I especially enjoy watching you transform flat sheet metal into art. I almost wish I had a rusted out whatever so I could become your customer, but since I live in sunny Indonesia and ride motorcycles.......that will not happen. Watching your work is simply, sheet metal therapy for the mind and soul. Wish you all the best, in this crazy world, you are the real deal.
Steve, as always a treatise on how to repair and replace corrosion affected panels and structural components.. and how many ways a pre-existing bodge up, can be sculptured! Always learn a lot and admire how you and your team go about your business! You simply make what at times, must be frustratingly painful to you, look like fun. Thanks as always.
its our pleasure Briana and thank you :)
Now whe have also a disaster porsche. Cant wait for the next part.Keep going guys.
Wow! That poor old porsche has some serious metalworm, looking forward to seeing u work yer magic again mate.
Bloody impressive. Someone really wants that cars saved. Thanks for the videos.
thank you , the customer and me both want it rebuilding haha
Recent subscriber to the channel, binge watched the Suzuki and Datsun so far. Really enjoy the content!
😮Impressive, as ever !
Method, patience and nice work !!
Every cut reveals an other rust nightmare !🫣
I really love your channel, keep posting. !👏🫶
Thank you Gabriel , your right a never ending layer of rust.
Great work on the rust repair.
How courageous you are !
Great content guys, keep at it. This channel will keep growing, I believe it will get huge one day! To do this work is a talent in itself but to document it as well as you do is brilliant.
thank you :) the encouragement is appreciated , we hope it will grow as well :)
Great video 👍 The idea of replacing floor pans has alot of merit going by historic repairs and the usual rust areas.
hi Sean, on this car the floor pan edges are the problem but the rest i good :)
I didn’t even recognized the kidney bracket area at first. What a terrible cover up job. Great to see you do it the right way and don’t get discouraged . Keep those video coming, they are great. Cheers from Canada
thank you :) yes lots to do but im enjoying it :)
Yet, another awesome learning tutorial, thanks Steve for showing your metal magic ,so cool to watch, even though I miss the comedy show the two Ronnie's 30yrs ago you must remember Steve, I would rather watch you and Ryan's performance when you work together. Thanks Steve for the knowledge.
Love these no fuss, no frills videos. Just you working your metal magic!
So many layers of sheet metal. Nice job!
yikes , MORE patches welded over rust !! and i said this would be easy 😂 amazing work on the rusty rhine wagon steve
Hi Karen :) , yes we knew from inspecting it that it wa going to be a challenge but worthy of youtubing
Wonderful skills and a pleasure to watch - cheers 🍺
never seen soo much rust - what a fantastic job it really is great to watch you transform this - please keep up the good work !!!
thank you Richard :)
Nice work Steve.
Great work
Great repair as always. Just wondering, would you guys ever consider getting one of these laser machine, it’s crazy how fast they can remove rust
That laser video Edd made kinda spoiled us, didn't it?
Issue is YCR already talked about not actually charging all that much for their work, all said'n done a laser costs 25-50k so would be outright impossible given their income.
The lasers don't fully remove the rust too, and do leave pitted areas with sorta semi-deactivated rust, they also don't give a sense for how thin the metal actually is.
A neat little 5 gallon pot pressurized Sandblaster wouldn't be a bad investment though, if not a bit messy (nothing a bit of masking work won't fix), because it doesn't leave untreated pits, and flexes the panel a bit for a good ballpark idea of strength.
Laser or blaster, at the end of the day they just need to get the rust outta there instead of contaminating fresh steel with rust picked up by grinding disc.
The repairs themselves are fine though! 😁
Almost painful to watch you uncover all that rust inside that sill.. Looking forward to see it all coming back together! 😊
yes me too :)
I personally have found a large percentage of classic cars. They might be shiny on the outside but rusty underneath. Then you feel bad when you inform the customer how badly it's been repaired. I am sure you have had the same, but we still love classic cars. Keep up the good work lads
thank you Barry :)
Bit of a 'Triggers broom' this car. I'm sure it's going to be great in the end, but thats a hell of a lot of work. The owner made a great choice sending it to you guys to sort out. I bet his bill is going to sting a bit!
thank you :), his bill wont be that bad cause we aren't expensive :)
Being able to fabricate the panels makes all the difference here - Aircooled VW inner front wings are about £1-200 a side.The cheapest I can find the same panel for a Porsche 911/912 is over £600 :(
good job :) cover whole glass from inside too.
:)
You make it look so easy! Wish I had the skills to do this but I will stick to mechanics. I do have a man Astra GSI in need of bodywork if you guys are keen? 😉
Andy
we are akways keen :), 80s-90s classics are climbing fast atm :)
DAAAAAAANG! Thought the Datsun was bad…
it is haha
Heater tubes look bad? can those be accessed after you weld around them?
heater tubes just have surface rust on them :)
Wow I'm amazed everytime I watch your videos I had no idea unibody construction cars had so much built into them for strength like inside the rocker panels I've got a jaguar and it has rusted out floor pans and frame rails that comes down the bulkhead and turned back and goes down the undercarriage till past the front doors the inside of my frame rails are completely gone on both sides were they turned to a ninety degrees and go down the car but I noticed my rocker panels don't have any thing on the inside of them they are hollow..I'm going to fix the frame rails and construct a full perimeter chassis gonna be hard but I think I have it almost figured out..thanks for all the uploads you guys are the best 👌
yes they are over complicated and not designed to be easily repaired :)
Lots of rust to be repaird😎👍
yes it will keep me busy :)
Brilliant work as usual. When does it get to the point when you say. It ain't worth it 😂. Doing some work on my jaguar mk2, what thickness steel do you recommend for the chassis rails?
if its worth doing for the customer then its worth doing it to us , we hardly ever give up on a classic car and we are also always up for a challenge :)
Hi great work guys just one ask where did you source the magnetic square work lights?
they are made by Snapon :)
Those who welded that car before you don't deserve their cup of tea. Disaster Porsche? Anyways, always a pleasure to watch you work and keep up the good work:)
thank you :)
Glad you are practising on cars other than Mazdas with sills - just hope people realise most older cars have the same issue and it should NOT put them off buying which ever car you are repairing.
Every Person I know would have scrapped this wreck; you do a great job. Sadfully Porsche has high price, but poor steel.
yes the steel in the new panels is of much higher quality :)
The chassis of this 911 is a total wreck. Even with all the really good repairs I would not be keen to own this. May the owner enjoy it and have fun. Nice to watch the step by step improvements. 👍🏻👍🏻
Fantastic stuff again Steve 👍👍 Really feel for the owner of this car who seems to get a right kicking at every cut you make!
But guess he's re-assured that at least your doing the right thing for him and taking no chances!
Keep up the good work!
P.S Any plans for some vids on the S800?
thank you Garffey :) yes the S800 will be one of our full youtube rebuilds :)
Is that in any way related to the Desaster Datsun? 🤔😭 What a job....
One huge takeaway and lesson learned here is to never overlay sheet metal over original sheet metal. When you make repairs, to make sure you aren't sealing up drain and vent holes. They are there for a reason folks!
Steve, even that heat exchange pipe needs replacing. It's rotted too!
This gives new meaning to pealing back the onion. There is so much work to be done just in this sill area. Some of the new sheet metal parts don't even look the same as what you are cutting out. Major boddgery has been done. Are you trying to compete with Ryan on who has the worst disaster restoration? Lol.
Makes you wonder how many of these high end classics that enter the auction circuits and look stunning (with estimate valuations to match), have this level of corrosion lurking underneath...🤔🤷🏼♂️🥴
we have had a lot of so called very clean classics , only to find under the coverups there is bad metal :#
Yet again Steve you’ve done magic on the rusty Porsche 👍🏻
most of your dedication and skill is on cars that would have been crushed, you guys are saviours, not many left . could i hire a spot welder to repair my cycleing shorts, they always fail in the crutch. no not like Long John Silver, a bit more closer
Up to 19.2 k now!! Getting to that 20k number fast!!
Rotten as a plum, pity it's such a valuable car otherwise I fear it would be in a scrapyard. Someone must love it to finance all your brilliant work.
What an eye opener. It's a case of buyer beware if ever there was. Even after competent repair who wants to throw serious money at a patchwork quilt?
If it wasn`t for old rusty cars life would be dull as 😄
My life would be Jerry haha
Wow that Porche looks like a Panzerfalle with all the bracing!
Worse then the Disaster Datsun?
Well Stevie, the previous entry is just about spot on. That being the case there is nothing else for it but to visit yer local pub and get a couple of tankards of that John Smith's amber nectar we keep hearing about up here. We recon it's over rated BTW.
thank you William :), im a larger drinker myself haha
This poor old thing, clinging to life with the only things supporting it being; fond memories and random spots of paint
Steve great to watch that's the next level. Fearless
Evening from Germany 👌👌
My bosses old s type jaguar the welder pulled out road signs paper mache and a ton and a half of fibreglass/ filler all hidden under a very nice paint after seeing that it changes your perception of what lies beneath 😳 have so much respect for you guys that actually cut the all the rust out and take pride in your craft👍
my word..the amount of rot beneath the surface of that car is quite startling...or is that an understatement!
How do you price this sort of work?
No kidney bowls, no inner sills, that thing was a complete death trap if anyone had crashed it there was no strength in the chassis.
after the Distaster Datsun here the Catastrophic Porshe.
Hi Leo :) yes it is getting worst :)
Wat's the difference between this 911 and te Disaster Datsun, well judging from this video, about 5 years and 1/2" of filler = excellent work as ever
is it completely missing the kidney bowl pressing near the b post?
The rockers and kidney bowls are known trouble spots for 911s of this vintage. Ask me how I know, lol. I see you've got replacement panels... But it looks like you've got a good amount of work ahead of you with the surrounding metal. Keen to see the next step, good luck!
Rough guess at the age of this car?
It's a "G-Bodied" car, so could be late 70's to end of the 80's. Probably around 40 years old. All 911's have been fully galvanised since 1976, but the real issue is the dirt/grime accumulates under the wheel arches and kidney bowls - I spent many hours cleaning up mine. Fender liners would have helped, but were only added starting with the 964 (1989.)
@@dra911 Thanks for quick reply-i don't know my 911's but the Carrera script sorta suggested to me that sort of era. Frightening how far the shell can deteriorate internally whilst still looking acceptable from the outside
Absolutely, and with the prices these cars fetch these days, there's a lot of incentive to cover up the problems as well. I still love them 🙂
What is that tubular thing inside the sill?
To convey warm air from engine to cabin, like old beetle.
Heater tubes..they get heat from the mufflers ..they then send it up to cab to warm the inside..defrost the windows..and any fool inside in cold weather...
Oh F...........lipping heck, worth saving though.
yes deffo worth saving :)
Misery misery misery, i'm now unfortunately having to redo my half arse job i did 3 years ago. I can't be to hard on myself though as i done it outside in all types of weather the with no cover, poor lighting, not the amount of tools i have now along with a real bad flux core welder. What's really bothered me is that i cleaned every where on the underside rear then applied waxoil that used to work but i did a scrap test and patched of rust where forming under it, the etch primer may have did something odd.
Also what rust converter do you use? I've tried Vactan that was useless, didn't penetrate the rust pores just did the surface and left a film. Used 30% Phosphoric Acid, did okay but a pain to neutralise/clean also attacks the good metal slightly also to thin. Currently using using Fertan, best so far as it seem to penetrate the pores but the metal does rust again in a dusty way.
Just thought I'd throw this in. I have tried all the rust converters over the years and was recommended Fertan by a friend of mine who has been a pro restorer for 20 years. It is the best I have come across without doubt, BUT.. there is only one real remedy which is to cut out the rusted steel and weld in new. Trouble is, the welded steel now rusts way quicker and easier than the original, so lots of attention and effort has to be given, particularly to the back or blind side. Fertan reckon that after treatment you can safely leave the project for a long time, but I find this not to be the case. The art with Fertan is to keep it wet for as long as possible, at least 24 hours, this gives a better penetration into the rust pits. Also thorough degreasing pays off massively. If you have a section that it is simply impractical to cut out and replace, then degrease to death, treat with Fertan, wash off any excess, dry thoroughly and encapsulate with Rustbuster Epoxy Mastic (www.rust.co.uk), treat the back with a good cavity wax, I prefer Dinitrol but I'm sure there are loads of good ones, and hope for the best!
@@bobfrankish8883 Pretty much hit the nail on the head on all aspects, my exact procedures. I've used the Fertan on areas that have mild pitting and chopped out the rest that i have access to, cavity wax in all rear areas. It's unfortunate that Honda didn't apply cavity wax from the factory.
Jesus wept it gets worse ! That must have been an extremely cheap base car or there's some serious sentimental value attached to it, great work !!!
or someone got badly ripped off, because on the outside it looked great.
👍👍👍
:)
Great work as always Steve 👍👍👍
But what work and above all not to be discouraged. It is a mille-feuille of rust and you are, on the scale of the car, watchmakers. What is the function, the usefulness, of the cylindrical shaped components at the base of the doors? Courage and Patience, congratulations in any case. Bonjour de Paris
thank you for the compliment its much appreciated :)
My lord ... is there enough left to make a car again?
Can you get inner wings?
Yes but they are over £1000 after tax and shipping. :)
😮 Someone probably paid good money for that butcher job!
yes they will have probably paid a small fortune as well :)
Thanks for sharing these videos. If you have the opportunity, please show more details. Absolutely everything is interesting in the process of your work.
i like how you start by fixing a little hole in the wing then proceed to cut off the full side of the car lol
Is 'moor rust' worse than normal rust?
its the same just longer :D
Wow what a mess well done steve top job mate
Don't lose faith. I knew how bad this was going to be. Layering floor patches always leads to trouble. Glad it's in good hands.
👍👍👍👍👍
Will there be any original metal left?😂. Great work Steve and a thumbs down to whoever did prior work on this car, very shoddy. Love that you are bringing it back from the dead.
My god, it is even worse than the disaster Datsun😮. I mean these cars are really collectors items and hopefully all the work will pay off in the end.😉
This Porsche is starting to give the Disaster Datsun a run for its money; some quality German rust under those bodge repairs!
REMIND ME, DO NOT EVER BUY A RESTORED PORSCHE
My bosses ebay bought restored jaguar is even worse actually makes that look solid, paper mache and everything hidden under a lovely paint job, our welder is fully demoralised with that jaguar, long story short don't buy any classic without viewing them first and take a magnet with you!!
Absolutely, there are cars out there that should never have been repaired. Some may look the part but in real terms they are worthless as investments.
Hi Steve that got very serious very quickly 😢 I'm sure you will sort it 😮 good luck
Was that a derby car??????
Hiya Steve more quality repairs and putting somebody's bodge jobs right excellent work as always maybe this 911 will give the disaster Datsun a run for its money on the dreaded tin worm stakes as well as performance love the channel and what you guys do keep up the great work ♥️👌👌👍
🤘😎🤘
Like!
Such a shame poor old girl, I'm sure you'll sort it though. It's a shame celette jig's and attachments are so pricey.
Could the Porsche get any worse? 😮 Excellent skills in fabrication so well done.
Rotten to the core! Just like mine!! 😅🤣😂 Awesome Job as always !!
Disappearing fast😂
And I thought the front was bad lol, I thought all Porsche's where galvanized metal Like my 1978 924 was.
This Porsche is like one of those Russian dolls every time you remove one there is more under it lol...
Rust bucket disaster.
Rotten from a***hole to breakfast 😮
at what point do you say scrap it ???
when the customer tells us to :)
You demonstrate enormous skill, but really that car should be scrapped
thank you :)
Just goes to show, when you start cutting there's no way of knowing where it'll end. Forensic archaeology.
At what point does this car get put in the bin? You have basically replaced everything on the car. Is this car something special? Love your work though.
the only point its not worth it is when the customer dosnt want it doing anymore :)
I took a welcome break from fixing rust on cars, erm, to fix rust on an Iveco motorhome instead today. Iveco was, in fairness, such a doddle compared to the curves & swerves on cars. That Porch-ster will be a lot faster once ye are done, what with the weight-reduction gains from all the filler being on the floor. :-) Bet yer glad you cleaned up
that door-shut so well before cutting it off & binning it... I do love when I do that.. :-)
This 911 part is quiet complex …but it’s in the right hands..😂😉👌