Recently I've done a couple videos on mite washes. It was suggested by some viewers to rewash the samples to see if any more mites would drop. So, in this video that's what I do!
Don't even need to shake them half drop out without a shake.. watch years down the road after billions of lost dollars we end up using dish soap for treating mites .. dish soap used a lot in gold recovery many uses like duct tape
Thanks Gus, for the information! I think that what is most important is that beekeepers to actually do their mite washes and keep track of the mite loads.
Thanks Gus. I agree, both liquids will do a good job. Soap is a better surfactant than alcohol but the main reason I like it is the cost effectiveness. I don't have to strain the alcohol so its quicker also. In college I asked the entomology Prof why farmers don't use soap water as an insecticide and he said it would pass the safety regulations.
It's been amazing fall weather dry calm ...mild .. spent couple long weekends in upper Michigan just incredible.. even seen wild salmon spawning in a creek.. wolves hollowing bear tracks..
Thanks Gus! Your results might make some folks think soap is better that alcohol. I’ve switched over to the soap because it’s so much cheaper and I steal it out of my wife’s kitchen! lol That way it comes out of the grocery money not my bee budget.
I agree with Ian and also you are right about the variability from test to test. One you may shake longer or harder and cause a difference in your results. You have to try be as consist as possible. Check out Randy Oliver's info. He uses a homemade shaker for consistency. The one I really like is Nathan's at Duke River Honey process. Hit them with OA and count the dead mites on a sticky board. Gives you a more accurate count and kills the mites that are not under cappings. I also see Ian using that test as well.
@@gusmitchellcranesnesthoney6529 That's true Nathan never made that claim and by accurate I mean you can tell at a glance if you have a lot of mites or only a small amount in that hive. You won't have a hard percentage number but you will know if you need to treat cause if you have a lot of mites drop you for sure have a large amount in the capped brood. I'm not saying washes are bad but to me with OA and sticky boards you are getting a bigger look into the hive. The OA will kill the exposed mites(or should). There will be less variables, in my opinion, because of shaking time, how hard you shake, the percentage of nurse bees to foragers in your sample, and etc. Just one beekeeper's thoughts on all the variability.
@@woodlandharvesthoneycompanyllc I’m only sampling 10%, sometimes a little more. With larger colony counts you have to manage by the yard, for the most part.
Thx for the video, you have too few mites to make a good conclusion, but that's a good thing. BTW you're our most well known Russian beekeeper that does videos, how closely related are Russian genetics to Caucasian genetics, Hillbilly Earl just got 2 colonies from Seth (Bob Binnie's grafter/queen rearer, they're Carniolian/Caucasian crossed), wouldn't they be simular to Russians or some of the 16 strains of Russians?
I used dawn this year too. I like that you took the extra step to compare to alcohol. Do you take the time to find every queen first? Or just make sure she isn't on the frame you're shaking from? Finding queens was my biggest time drain this year.
Great job Gus! You are a great communicator! Thanks for sacrificing your bees for these comparisons!
Science! Thanks for being thorough and proving it's effectiveness both ways.
I find that Dawn drops them within a quick shake. Triple checking my washes , very few are missed even considering the suds
Don't even need to shake them half drop out without a shake.. watch years down the road after billions of lost dollars we end up using dish soap for treating mites .. dish soap used a lot in gold recovery many uses like duct tape
Thanks for the video!
Great work Gus, both work well it seems. Think I'll stick to the Dawn soap worked great and cheaper. Plus I need the alcohol to wash off propolis.
Thanks Gus, for the information! I think that what is most important is that beekeepers to actually do their mite washes and keep track of the mite loads.
nice work to test impressive
Thanks Gus. I agree, both liquids will do a good job. Soap is a better surfactant than alcohol but the main reason I like it is the cost effectiveness. I don't have to strain the alcohol so its quicker also. In college I asked the entomology Prof why farmers don't use soap water as an insecticide and he said it would pass the safety regulations.
It's been amazing fall weather dry calm ...mild .. spent couple long weekends in upper Michigan just incredible.. even seen wild salmon spawning in a creek.. wolves hollowing bear tracks..
Thanks Gus! Your results might make some folks think soap is better that alcohol. I’ve switched over to the soap because it’s so much cheaper and I steal it out of my wife’s kitchen! lol That way it comes out of the grocery money not my bee budget.
I agree with Ian and also you are right about the variability from test to test. One you may shake longer or harder and cause a difference in your results. You have to try be as consist as possible. Check out Randy Oliver's info. He uses a homemade shaker for consistency. The one I really like is Nathan's at Duke River Honey process. Hit them with OA and count the dead mites on a sticky board. Gives you a more accurate count and kills the mites that are not under cappings. I also see Ian using that test as well.
I have a hard time seeing how that will give me a more accurate count because I don’t know how many bees are in the sample
@@gusmitchellcranesnesthoney6529 It is not a more accurate count. For the record, the Duck river honey guy never made that claim.
@@gusmitchellcranesnesthoney6529 That's true Nathan never made that claim and by accurate I mean you can tell at a glance if you have a lot of mites or only a small amount in that hive. You won't have a hard percentage number but you will know if you need to treat cause if you have a lot of mites drop you for sure have a large amount in the capped brood. I'm not saying washes are bad but to me with OA and sticky boards you are getting a bigger look into the hive. The OA will kill the exposed mites(or should). There will be less variables, in my opinion, because of shaking time, how hard you shake, the percentage of nurse bees to foragers in your sample, and etc. Just one beekeeper's thoughts on all the variability.
@@woodlandharvesthoneycompanyllc I’m only sampling 10%, sometimes a little more.
With larger colony counts you have to manage by the yard, for the most part.
Enjoy you Mr Gus
Thx for the video, you have too few mites to make a good conclusion, but that's a good thing. BTW you're our most well known Russian beekeeper that does videos, how closely related are Russian genetics to Caucasian genetics, Hillbilly Earl just got 2 colonies from Seth (Bob Binnie's grafter/queen rearer, they're Carniolian/Caucasian crossed), wouldn't they be simular to Russians or some of the 16 strains of Russians?
Russian bees are Carni type, made up of Carni and Caucasian strains from different regions
That's what I thought, Thx
Cold water = less suds.
I found a swirl vs shake worked well. Thanks for the recommendation of cold water.👍
What's the ratio of soap to water? Did you mention this in any other videos?
Yeah in the first soap video, I think it’s 3/4 to 1 tbsp per gallon
@@gusmitchellcranesnesthoney6529 thanks. There is so much going on it's hard to keep up anymore
I used dawn this year too. I like that you took the extra step to compare to alcohol. Do you take the time to find every queen first? Or just make sure she isn't on the frame you're shaking from? Finding queens was my biggest time drain this year.
Mostly just check the frame I pull