It's a great car - if I won the lottery tomorrow I'd get an XFR and an XJ regardless of mileage and have the engines rebuilt regardless of cost along with buying brand new gearboxes. These cars will go down as design classics in the next 20 years. PS - I have a 3.0 litre XF and I love it.
I have a 2014 3.0 xf. The door locks are prone to failure. Ive had the back drivers side and the passenger front both fail and replaced under extended warranty. 65k miles and its a joy to drive.Same leather interior but no issues on mine
Looking into the XFR, still a bit spendy for my budget. Had an S type 4.0 with sunroof for 6 years,50k miles and no rust. Tax is £325. Trouble is the pre facelift S type is great. Geoff Lawson got it spot on for UK roads. Good luck with the project and your channel.
Thank you. I really like the S Type too, but love the XF. I know what to you mean about spendy, my first one was daily driven, 10k a year and depreciation hammered me too. This time round, it's more of an occasional use car, if things go wrong I can take it off the road, and last few months it's been SORN as the roads are so horrible! At the moment, it's cheaper than buying a new Toyota Auris on a PCP!
I got over excited ordering the handles! What I should have done is strip the door card and inspect. It does seem odd it's both doors, actuators would make more sense.
@@turnerscarsUK these are notorious on JLR. They are fairly cheap and can yes the door card will have to come off. Couple of screws/torx and a lot of busted knuckles. Also look up crystal clear mechanics - jaguar xf door actuator. He goes through step by step guide on how to change them.
I have a 2010 XFR and for the suspension all my bushings were shot on the A arms and links so all had been replaced. world of difference. also check out the trans mount bushing/bracket. another offender.
Well I hope you got those issues fixed I have mine for 4 years and all the suspension had to be redone at about 70,000 Miles.. I did buy an extended aftermarket warranty which covered every single thing so remember if you get one of these cars you have to get an extended aftermarket warranty to cover all your parts your suspension your electronics and your engine in your supercharger also the bubbling of the dashboard that's an easy fix go get a heat gun make little holes with a pin. Run the heat gun over the bubbles and press it down with a rag and it goes away.. you should do it every couple of months and also tint your windshield it'll help protect the dash
I want to get my dash fixed also on my XFR. I was quoted 2k for just the leather install. I still have to take it to the shop to have the dash removed and put back in. so $3200.00 here in the states. NOT AN EASY FIX. What year is yours?
Jaguar spent millions of quid developing their car to reach the best MPG it could manage with 550BHP. Screw with the exhaust and/or intakes and you'll get worse performance, lousy MPG, and your car will sound like a bag of nails. Before you screw around with anything MAFF related, have you changed the plugs, checked the HT leads and had a full service including air filters etc. and run a proper diagnostic check? Turbochargers are more efficient than superchargers because they use the wasted energy from the engines exhaust cycle to drive a compressor. The extra performance is largely free. Superchargers are mechanically driven from the engine so use energy directly from the engine to drive themselves. The instant response is a consequence of burning fuel to drive the compressor ergo, higher fuel consumption. I really don't get the obsession of people wanting to hear a loud exhaust note inside a luxury car. It just doesn't make sense other than narcissistic compulsion. Apart from anything else it's a red flag to plod that a car has been modified, which invariably invalidates the insurance, and they get a gold star for nicking someone who is happy to advertise they are really dumb. Your car looks like it's been in a minor shunt and badly repaired/resprayed by someone with a paint can. It also looks like your car has tracking/wheel balancing/alignment problems probably influenced by crumbling rubber bushes. Nobody mentions this but the first things to cause trouble on older cars are the electrics, swiftly followed by rubber components. A well cared for engine will run forever but rubber bushes/hoses etc. deteriorate badly and are invariably ignored. Most electrical problems can be solved with a new battery and alternator. No point in doing one or the other, change both of them, as well as any (surprise surprise) rubber belt drives. I have worked on cars and bikes for the last 50 years, modding them in the early days when insurance companies didn't care, and the two biggest problems of all are lousy batteries and alternators, and rubber components of all description. The difference is, a car dies temporarily from electrical problems, it dies permanently with rubber problems. If an alternator dies at 70MPH the car slowly grinds to a halt. If a rubber coolant hose or worse, oil hose, ruptures at 70MPH the engine grenades itself. There is no such thing as a cheap performance car.
I was looking at buying a new facelifted XFR back in 2013. I decided to browse some Jaguar forums and every poster had Stockholm syndrome with regards to the car. People would talk about trim pieces falling off and electronics not working but it was a "small price to pay for the privilege of driving a Jaguar" (literally the words of one poster). I expressed my hesitation of spending $80K+ on a car only to have parts start falling off and electronics start failing after driving it off the dealer's lot. I was told that if things like that bothered me then "Jaguar ownership wasn't for me" and that I "should buy a Lexus".
I had one in 2015 for two years, and while this one has issues, for a 13 year old car with 100k miles it's not unexpected, especially when I paid so little for it.
It's a great car - if I won the lottery tomorrow I'd get an XFR and an XJ regardless of mileage and have the engines rebuilt regardless of cost along with buying brand new gearboxes. These cars will go down as design classics in the next 20 years.
PS - I have a 3.0 litre XF and I love it.
The engines and boxes themselves seem reliable, it's often the bits around the edges.
I have a 2014 3.0 xf. The door locks are prone to failure. Ive had the back drivers side and the passenger front both fail and replaced under extended warranty. 65k miles and its a joy to drive.Same leather interior but no issues on mine
I daily my 2014 XFR with Spires back boxes on, love it.
I love not doing the daily tbh, it feels special every time I drop in the seat!
Same daily drive my 2010 XF Supercharged 5.0 with pulley, tune and spires back boxes
Looking into the XFR, still a bit spendy for my budget.
Had an S type 4.0 with sunroof for 6 years,50k miles and no rust.
Tax is £325.
Trouble is the pre facelift S type is great.
Geoff Lawson got it spot on for UK roads.
Good luck with the project and your channel.
Thank you. I really like the S Type too, but love the XF. I know what to you mean about spendy, my first one was daily driven, 10k a year and depreciation hammered me too.
This time round, it's more of an occasional use car, if things go wrong I can take it off the road, and last few months it's been SORN as the roads are so horrible! At the moment, it's cheaper than buying a new Toyota Auris on a PCP!
I fitted Powerflex front bushes in the banana arms on mine, just under £100 - the other end of the arm is a rose joint and was fine.
I've just had Conti sport contact 7 fitted to my XFS. They perform as well the PS4S which they replaced after 26k miles.
I'm looking forward to giving the contis a try
It may not be the handles that have the issue. The actuators do fail very often and could also be the issue with the disco not locking.
I got over excited ordering the handles! What I should have done is strip the door card and inspect. It does seem odd it's both doors, actuators would make more sense.
@@turnerscarsUK these are notorious on JLR. They are fairly cheap and can yes the door card will have to come off. Couple of screws/torx and a lot of busted knuckles. Also look up crystal clear mechanics - jaguar xf door actuator. He goes through step by step guide on how to change them.
I have a 2010 XFR and for the suspension all my bushings were shot on the A arms and links so all had been replaced. world of difference. also check out the trans mount bushing/bracket. another offender.
I'll be under it in the spring for a good check round 👍
How much did that cost you?
the wobble will be likely the front banana arms - worn bushes, thats what it was on my xfr, wobble at 60mph ish, replaced them and the wobble went
It definitely feels suspension arm related, I'll give the bananas a going over.
Well I hope you got those issues fixed I have mine for 4 years and all the suspension had to be redone at about 70,000 Miles.. I did buy an extended aftermarket warranty which covered every single thing so remember if you get one of these cars you have to get an extended aftermarket warranty to cover all your parts your suspension your electronics and your engine in your supercharger also the bubbling of the dashboard that's an easy fix go get a heat gun make little holes with a pin. Run the heat gun over the bubbles and press it down with a rag and it goes away.. you should do it every couple of months and also tint your windshield it'll help protect the dash
No aftermarket warranty for me, it was a private sale. If anything goes wrong, it's on me to fix it!
i have ram air pro-ram intakes on my 2014 xfr, no issues at all, no loss of power,no bogging down just pure sexual supercharger whine :)
I love a bit of sexual supercharger!!
I want to get my dash fixed also on my XFR. I was quoted 2k for just the leather install. I still have to take it to the shop to have the dash removed and put back in. so $3200.00 here in the states. NOT AN EASY FIX. What year is yours?
Wowsers, that seems really high! I'd have thought a used better condition one would be cheaper? Mine is a 2010.
@@turnerscarsUK A used one is hard to find. I did find one on eBay for like $900.00 plus $1000.00 to install.
Jaguar spent millions of quid developing their car to reach the best MPG it could manage with 550BHP. Screw with the exhaust and/or intakes and you'll get worse performance, lousy MPG, and your car will sound like a bag of nails.
Before you screw around with anything MAFF related, have you changed the plugs, checked the HT leads and had a full service including air filters etc. and run a proper diagnostic check?
Turbochargers are more efficient than superchargers because they use the wasted energy from the engines exhaust cycle to drive a compressor. The extra performance is largely free. Superchargers are mechanically driven from the engine so use energy directly from the engine to drive themselves. The instant response is a consequence of burning fuel to drive the compressor ergo, higher fuel consumption.
I really don't get the obsession of people wanting to hear a loud exhaust note inside a luxury car. It just doesn't make sense other than narcissistic compulsion. Apart from anything else it's a red flag to plod that a car has been modified, which invariably invalidates the insurance, and they get a gold star for nicking someone who is happy to advertise they are really dumb.
Your car looks like it's been in a minor shunt and badly repaired/resprayed by someone with a paint can.
It also looks like your car has tracking/wheel balancing/alignment problems probably influenced by crumbling rubber bushes. Nobody mentions this but the first things to cause trouble on older cars are the electrics, swiftly followed by rubber components. A well cared for engine will run forever but rubber bushes/hoses etc. deteriorate badly and are invariably ignored.
Most electrical problems can be solved with a new battery and alternator. No point in doing one or the other, change both of them, as well as any (surprise surprise) rubber belt drives.
I have worked on cars and bikes for the last 50 years, modding them in the early days when insurance companies didn't care, and the two biggest problems of all are lousy batteries and alternators, and rubber components of all description. The difference is, a car dies temporarily from electrical problems, it dies permanently with rubber problems. If an alternator dies at 70MPH the car slowly grinds to a halt. If a rubber coolant hose or worse, oil hose, ruptures at 70MPH the engine grenades itself.
There is no such thing as a cheap performance car.
Let me know when you want to get of the Jag i need get a car soon
the xf had a bash in the front pump has been taken off
It's going nowhere for a while!
I have The 2.7 fantastic car
Ive got the 3.0 S type, lots of niggly faults including the door issue. 100% sure its the door regulator.
I'll have a go at these when the weather picks up a bit
I was looking at buying a new facelifted XFR back in 2013. I decided to browse some Jaguar forums and every poster had Stockholm syndrome with regards to the car. People would talk about trim pieces falling off and electronics not working but it was a "small price to pay for the privilege of driving a Jaguar" (literally the words of one poster). I expressed my hesitation of spending $80K+ on a car only to have parts start falling off and electronics start failing after driving it off the dealer's lot. I was told that if things like that bothered me then "Jaguar ownership wasn't for me" and that I "should buy a Lexus".
I had one in 2015 for two years, and while this one has issues, for a 13 year old car with 100k miles it's not unexpected, especially when I paid so little for it.