Excellent video, strong on details and short on extra talk. I tried to get the info we needed from other videos with no luck...followed this to the tee and 350 chev fired up on first crank rev. THANKS for taking the time to post it up for us with AED (Auto Electrical Deficiency)
This is phenomenal. This sort of work is still beyond what I feel comfortable with doing, but it is absolutely great to know for when the time does come. Thank you and I Love The Channels Name. Subbing.
note to add harmonic balancers are not created equally if its oem you should be ok but a lot of manufacturers have the 0 mark in the wrong location. it is always wise to put a indicator or even a stick in the number one spark plug and run it to top dead then verifiy the 0 mark is were it is supposed to be
Am I right in thinking that once at TDC you can lift the distributor up out of the helical gear and drop it back down to virtually any other slot it will fit into and call the new position #1? If so, you would need to change the plug wires so that they would all be long/short enough to go to their newly assigned cylinders. I only mention this because, I like others like to have number 1 on the distributor to the immediate right of the points window.
Yeah but be sure it drops back down into the oil pump drive. It will only line up in 2 positions unless you turn motor over and push down on rotor botton.
So I have an edlebrok 1404 every since I installed it it's ran like crap. I don't have a rpm gauge (77c10). I've adjusted the air/fuel screws a thousand times but the idle continues to hunt, ive checked timing, vacuum leaks ECT. I've installed the adapter for the 1404 on the intake. All 4 opening on the intake are about a little less than a 1/4 in blocked by the gasket(maybe that's the problem?) I've made it back fire through the carb twice and both times the truck ran fine after words. But after about 30 min it's back to running hunting. I'm at a complete loss on it. The original carb was a quadrajet 600cfm the 1404 edlebrok is 500cfm. Maybe under cfm? I went back and forth between air ratio screws idle screw and timing for around 3 hrs lol all the hoses are in the correct spot and timing is correct according to the air cleaner cover(2° for a 350) also switched it to the second hole down on the acc pump for a bigger pump of gas (which helped steady idle alot) any input is much appreciated (77 c10 350 stock intake edle brok 1404 with adapter plate to intake)
Backfiring through the carb is a lean issue. Sounds like you have a vacuum leak. The carb is a little undersized but it should still run fine and not cause the issues you are having. Are you using a spread bore to quadrajet adapter? Because those are the devil.
@@FuelInjectionSucks no definitely not. I just meant that after it would back fire the surging would stop and the truck would run smooth for about 30 min give or take then it would surge again
Is your timing supposed to move even when the vac advance is disconnected ? Example, when I set it on 20degrees warm and idling and advance hose disconnect. Timing mark will move from 20-25 and beyond. Is this normal?
You could set the timing for the highest RPM'S on a tach and back it off a little. Test drive it and see if it pings. Use the damper as a guide to set the timing.
I set my timing exactly the way you did here. My #1 is actually more at @ looking down at the ending, though. I do have it lined up with the #1 plug wire, though. I started it and it runs, but when I checked timing, it turns out the mark is way on the other side. Like around 10:00 when looking from the front of the engine. Not sure what I did wrong.
Fuel Injection Sucks I did Tdc at 0 it didn’t work then I did 20 it didn’t work, where should I set the harmonic balancer before dropping in the distributor?
@@FuelInjectionSucks Gotcha. Would it be true to say the following? If the manual is calling for the following: Remove vac advance and plug from carb, start engine and run at idle speed, set initial timing to 8 degrees BTDC @ 900 RPMs; you won't dick around and try to set total timing after setting the base timing correct? You should get 32-36 degrees of total timing around 3000 RPMs and that's taking into account what the distributor is adding when the vac advance is kicking in? This is for a Chevy 350 in a Corvette with no A/C and manual.
@@pattygq Yes. They unplug the vac advance just to make sure it's not engaging, but it shouldn't be anyway. Then you set the initial to 8. Mechanical advance should get you around 35 total. Factor in vacuum, and it's probably 45-50, but vacuum advance disengages under load.
I have a Holly 4160. I kited it. Set floats and reinstalled it. The secondary are poreing fuel. Float and needle are shutting off but still have problem
My 350 does not have the original timing cover instead it has a timing tab on right side so u cant time it with a timing light because the line on harmonic balancer never lands there
I notice your alternator is positioned right-side incorporating a "special" bracket; I've got a problem with a left-side mounted unit on a 65 Impala SS SBC; the adjusting arm is maxed; but there's a mere 1/8" gap between the alternator & tall valve cover; WTF? If one replaced the "rams-horn" Ex-manifolds with headers you could experience a similar effect as you would no longer have the alternator's main mounting points; is there a conversion kit available? But the ole Frigidaire is right-side mounted on this car;
Question I set it to tdc and set my distributor and all sounds good but once I plug the advance plug doesn’t fire up can’t get it to run to put a gun on it 350 tbi 1990 book says when setting timing plug should off so can’t set timing tried 1 2 3 4 Been trying for a month any suggestion
You need to disconnect the timing connector which is either located on the firewall or behind the glovebox. You don't disconnect the plug on the distributor. You start the truck, then you set the timing to 0, turn the truck off, and plug it back in.
hi i have a 350 motor with a msd ready to run distributor without ignition box . i have a guy do my timeing . he told me you never do total timing when you have a advanced canister on distributor. only initial he set it to 14 degrees . is that true what he said about total timeing thanks
I realize you posted this a year a go but allow me to explain what your guy meant. A distributor has a specific amount of advance available. Depending on the manufacturer, usually about 20 degrees total. So if your guy set the base timing at 14 he is essentially setting total timing to 34 degrees. (14 degrees base + 20 degrees built into distributor = 34 total timing) the 20 degrees built into the distributor comes from a combination of mechanical and vacuum advance. So your guy feels the total timing is more important for engine performance Most performance builders dont care what the base timing is set at. They want to make sure timing can advance enough for high rpm performance. So they will set the distributor up so total timing is 34 to 36 degrees. If set at 36 total, subtract out the 20 built into the distributor so base timing would be 16 degrees. Some older V8 engines specs called for 8-10 degrees base timing. Add the 20 degrees built in to the 10 degrees base and that makes the total 30 degrees. 30 degrees total timing makes for sluggish performance at higher rpm. Thats why they like using total timing. Mechanical timing usually start advancing at about 1000 or so rpm and is usually all in at 3000 or so. Vacuum advance if connected to port vacuum will start advancing timing as soon as you step on throttle. If vacuum advance canister is connected to manifold vacuum it will advance the timing while the engine is idling.
Farmer Jim Close, but not quite. " The 20 degrees built into the distributor comes from a combination of mechanical and vacuum advance"...this is incorrect, mechanical advance and vacuum advance never combine to get 20 degrees. The 20 degrees comes from the mechanical advance weights and center plate in the distributor only. The vac advance has its own amount of advance it adds. The vac advance was designed to add extra timing during low load/high vacuum conditions because lean mixtures burn slowly and rich mixtures burn quickly. What are the low load/high vacuum conditions? Idle & cruise. Vac advance adds extra timing in these conditions to light the fire earlier in the compression cycle to ensure a complete burn and MUST be connected to manifold vacuum as it was designed to be. Connected to ported you will not get the extra advance needed at idle (which also helps with cooling) and during acceleration you'll be adding advance to a rich mixture that actually needs less advance. For peak engine performance, driveability, idle cooling, improved gas mileage, and efficiency on a street driven vehicle, you need vacuum advance connected to full manifold vacuum. Period
You're trying to tell us how to do timing and you ain't never done your time in yourself we're supposed to take your word somebody to let somebody else do it
u time it like vw time it at low rpms and at high rpms find the in between setting for timing but i would get the vacuum advance u will get better performance and mpg
some motor u can't move # 1 on the dis. but chevy is forgiving u just drop the dis in turn motor to top dead center were rotor points is# 1 or 180 out if 180 out just move the wires and if u put the balancer like a 350 stock 8 deg before top dead center then line up the # 1 perfect it will be perfect timing dun it a few times and did not have to move the dis with a light on it great for beaking in motors so u don't have to play with timing when u first start it like vw u have to time it in at low rpm and at high rpm and find the balance in timing trust me not all cars are like a chevy u should make the video on chevy timing only there are a lot of different types of distributors and how they work on older cars how u install one is u put in the hole turn motor till the oil rod locks in to the dis. and u can tell when it fully drops down to the mounting hole
@@FuelInjectionSucks how much will the factory ecm allow the timing to be taylored with the scan tool? Are there 'read only' ecm's versus 'open' or programmable ones available somewhere?
this is the very first time i see a 350 with alternator on that side, mine it's same!!! and some make fun of me i don't know why !?? jajaj but it look more clean i think that.
the rotor should be pointed towards the number 2 but it has no relation to the block what so ever if you look at the original schematics its pointed in that direction that is the only way u can get accurate start at all times not every once in a while have a slip in the start and also have maximum power with advanced timing.
u are correct on the compression stroke part and being able to put number 1 wherever u want but u will know the difference when u take it to the track.
John Phillips jr Seriously tried the way the original schematics tell you and then test it after that and see what response you get from your vehicle and trust me you would never do it another way again
great informative video up until you started the engine ..cuz ya Couldnt hear a damm word u were saying , ..one would think youd fix that !!...but NOT!!.....wat a waste of viewing time !!
Skip passed all the 7-8 mins of blah blah blah. Put #1 sparkplug in hand crank the motor till you feel compression. Set your timing mark to 0, put distributor in engine pointing the rotor towards #1. Set distributor cap and start putting wires in the correct firing order. Get your timing light ready. It should start on the first try if there's gas
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I’ve been watching videos all day to part information together on timing and you summed it all up with this one video. 👌🏽
Excellent video, strong on details and short on extra talk. I tried to get the info we needed from other videos with no luck...followed this to the tee and 350 chev fired up on first crank rev. THANKS for taking the time to post it up for us with AED (Auto Electrical Deficiency)
This is phenomenal. This sort of work is still beyond what I feel comfortable with doing, but it is absolutely great to know for when the time does come. Thank you and I Love The Channels Name. Subbing.
note to add harmonic balancers are not created equally if its oem you should be ok but a lot of manufacturers have the 0 mark in the wrong location. it is always wise to put a indicator or even a stick in the number one spark plug and run it to top dead then verifiy the 0 mark is were it is supposed to be
A stick huh
Thanks a lot everyone makes it so complicated but this helped
Great video, watch a lot that over complicated this, thanks
Am I right in thinking that once at TDC you can lift the distributor up out of the helical gear and drop it back down to virtually any other slot it will fit into and call the new position #1? If so, you would need to change the plug wires so that they would all be long/short enough to go to their newly assigned cylinders. I only mention this because, I like others like to have number 1 on the distributor to the immediate right of the points window.
Yeah but be sure it drops back down into the oil pump drive. It will only line up in 2 positions unless you turn motor over and push down on rotor botton.
So I have an edlebrok 1404 every since I installed it it's ran like crap. I don't have a rpm gauge (77c10). I've adjusted the air/fuel screws a thousand times but the idle continues to hunt, ive checked timing, vacuum leaks ECT. I've installed the adapter for the 1404 on the intake. All 4 opening on the intake are about a little less than a 1/4 in blocked by the gasket(maybe that's the problem?) I've made it back fire through the carb twice and both times the truck ran fine after words. But after about 30 min it's back to running hunting. I'm at a complete loss on it. The original carb was a quadrajet 600cfm the 1404 edlebrok is 500cfm. Maybe under cfm? I went back and forth between air ratio screws idle screw and timing for around 3 hrs lol all the hoses are in the correct spot and timing is correct according to the air cleaner cover(2° for a 350) also switched it to the second hole down on the acc pump for a bigger pump of gas (which helped steady idle alot) any input is much appreciated (77 c10 350 stock intake edle brok 1404 with adapter plate to intake)
Backfiring through the carb is a lean issue. Sounds like you have a vacuum leak. The carb is a little undersized but it should still run fine and not cause the issues you are having. Are you using a spread bore to quadrajet adapter? Because those are the devil.
@@FuelInjectionSucks it's the square borebi believe
@@FuelInjectionSucks besides it running like this why does it run fine for a little bit after it back fire out of the carb
@@tommyyarbery379 idle surging and backfiring is not running ok.
@@FuelInjectionSucks no definitely not. I just meant that after it would back fire the surging would stop and the truck would run smooth for about 30 min give or take then it would surge again
Very informative. Thanks for the lesson.
No2TheNWO true I couldn't agree more.
Can you set overall timing after the camshaft break in? Flat tappet cams don't agree. Lol, thank you for the tutorial!
Is your timing supposed to move even when the vac advance is disconnected ?
Example, when I set it on 20degrees warm and idling and advance hose disconnect.
Timing mark will move from 20-25 and beyond. Is this normal?
I like finding number 1 with the valve cover off. when your at tdc both valves will be closed I think it's more accurate.
Justin Riley it’s the same difference just more work removing the Val covers
You could set the timing for the highest RPM'S on a tach and back it off a little. Test drive it and see if it pings. Use the damper as a guide to set the timing.
I set my timing exactly the way you did here. My #1 is actually more at @ looking down at the ending, though. I do have it lined up with the #1 plug wire, though. I started it and it runs, but when I checked timing, it turns out the mark is way on the other side. Like around 10:00 when looking from the front of the engine. Not sure what I did wrong.
I have a question, how do you set the base timing in olds 403? Same thing you did on this one!
Yes.
Fuel Injection Sucks I did Tdc at 0 it didn’t work then I did 20 it didn’t work, where should I set the harmonic balancer before dropping in the distributor?
@@z28punisher42 it has to be 0 on the compression stroke, make sure it's not on the exhaust stroke. The mark will line up two times.
Fuel Injection Sucks alright thank you I’ll try that now
QUESTION: What is the difference between Initial timing and total timing and which one should I be using?
Initial at idle. Total is your total combined timing once the mechanical advance is fully engaged, usually between 2500-3500 rpm.
@@FuelInjectionSucks Gotcha. Would it be true to say the following? If the manual is calling for the following: Remove vac advance and plug from carb, start engine and run at idle speed, set initial timing to 8 degrees BTDC @ 900 RPMs; you won't dick around and try to set total timing after setting the base timing correct? You should get 32-36 degrees of total timing around 3000 RPMs and that's taking into account what the distributor is adding when the vac advance is kicking in? This is for a Chevy 350 in a Corvette with no A/C and manual.
@@pattygq Yes. They unplug the vac advance just to make sure it's not engaging, but it shouldn't be anyway. Then you set the initial to 8. Mechanical advance should get you around 35 total. Factor in vacuum, and it's probably 45-50, but vacuum advance disengages under load.
Do you unhook the vacuum advance?
What u doing with that carb on the old engine I'll buy it
I have a Holly 4160. I kited it. Set floats and reinstalled it. The secondary are poreing fuel. Float and needle are shutting off but still have problem
Helo
Help
My 350 does not have the original timing cover instead it has a timing tab on right side so u cant time it with a timing light because the line on harmonic balancer never lands there
I notice your alternator is positioned right-side incorporating a "special" bracket; I've got a problem with a left-side mounted unit on a 65 Impala SS SBC; the adjusting arm is maxed; but there's a mere 1/8" gap between the alternator & tall valve cover; WTF? If one replaced the "rams-horn" Ex-manifolds with headers you could experience a similar effect as you would no longer have the alternator's main mounting points; is there a conversion kit available? But the ole Frigidaire is right-side mounted on this car;
Question I set it to tdc and set my distributor and all sounds good but once I plug the advance plug doesn’t fire up can’t get it to run to put a gun on it 350 tbi 1990 book says when setting timing plug should off so can’t set timing tried 1 2 3 4 Been trying for a month any suggestion
On the Balancer
You need to disconnect the timing connector which is either located on the firewall or behind the glovebox. You don't disconnect the plug on the distributor. You start the truck, then you set the timing to 0, turn the truck off, and plug it back in.
Is setting to 10 pretty good for my 305 trans am using 91 octane? Or should I advance to 12 as well?
I always put number one to where I can get to the bolt better because of the spark Advance being over top
hi i have a 350 motor with a msd ready to run distributor without ignition box . i have a guy do my timeing . he told me you never do total timing when you have a advanced canister on distributor. only initial he set it to 14 degrees . is that true what he said about total timeing thanks
Giovanni Krasniqi learn to work on your own stuff and you won't have to worry about other people opinions
I realize you posted this a year a go but allow me to explain what your guy meant.
A distributor has a specific amount of advance available. Depending on the manufacturer, usually about 20 degrees total. So if your guy set the base timing at 14 he is essentially setting total timing to 34 degrees. (14 degrees base + 20 degrees built into distributor = 34 total timing) the 20 degrees built into the distributor comes from a combination of mechanical and vacuum advance. So your guy feels the total timing is more important for engine performance
Most performance builders dont care what the base timing is set at. They want to make sure timing can advance enough for high rpm performance. So they will set the distributor up so total timing is 34 to 36 degrees. If set at 36 total, subtract out the 20 built into the distributor so base timing would be 16 degrees. Some older V8 engines specs called for 8-10 degrees base timing. Add the 20 degrees built in to the 10 degrees base and that makes the total 30 degrees. 30 degrees total timing makes for sluggish performance at higher rpm. Thats why they like using total timing.
Mechanical timing usually start advancing at about 1000 or so rpm and is usually all in at 3000 or so. Vacuum advance if connected to port vacuum will start advancing timing as soon as you step on throttle. If vacuum advance canister is connected to manifold vacuum it will advance the timing while the engine is idling.
Farmer Jim Close, but not quite. " The 20 degrees built into the distributor comes from a combination of mechanical and vacuum advance"...this is incorrect, mechanical advance and vacuum advance never combine to get 20 degrees. The 20 degrees comes from the mechanical advance weights and center plate in the distributor only. The vac advance has its own amount of advance it adds. The vac advance was designed to add extra timing during low load/high vacuum conditions because lean mixtures burn slowly and rich mixtures burn quickly. What are the low load/high vacuum conditions? Idle & cruise. Vac advance adds extra timing in these conditions to light the fire earlier in the compression cycle to ensure a complete burn and MUST be connected to manifold vacuum as it was designed to be. Connected to ported you will not get the extra advance needed at idle (which also helps with cooling) and during acceleration you'll be adding advance to a rich mixture that actually needs less advance. For peak engine performance, driveability, idle cooling, improved gas mileage, and efficiency on a street driven vehicle, you need vacuum advance connected to full manifold vacuum. Period
You're trying to tell us how to do timing and you ain't never done your time in yourself we're supposed to take your word somebody to let somebody else do it
what kind of car did that 305 come from ??
Its a 350. Its a GM 195hp crate motor.
yea i got a chevy 350
What do i do with mine ,with no vacuum advance on it ,small block 305
u time it like vw time it at low rpms and at high rpms find the in between setting for timing but i would get the vacuum advance u will get better performance and mpg
@@jeffrey4547 im working on getting the distributor with vacuum advance, gonna try it properly this weekend,,thanks ,
some motor u can't move # 1 on the dis. but chevy is forgiving u just drop the dis in turn motor to top dead center were rotor points is# 1 or 180 out if 180 out just move the wires and if u put the balancer like a 350 stock 8 deg before top dead center then line up the # 1 perfect it will be perfect timing dun it a few times and did not have to move the dis with a light on it great for beaking in motors so u don't have to play with timing when u first start it like vw u have to time it in at low rpm and at high rpm and find the balance in timing trust me not all cars are like a chevy u should make the video on chevy timing only there are a lot of different types of distributors and how they work on older cars how u install one is u put in the hole turn motor till the oil rod locks in to the dis. and u can tell when it fully drops down to the mounting hole
s did u know a sb chevy distributor is the same as a bb chevy all u do is change the counter weights works the same
The best way is too put distribution in right position,,,,,and set your timing at 3000 RPMS full advance for best results
Are these marks on a vortec 350 as well?
Yes, but if it is still fuel injected you have a bunch of other things to contend with. Your timing has to be set using a scan tool.
@@FuelInjectionSucks how much will the factory ecm allow the timing to be taylored with the scan tool? Are there 'read only' ecm's versus 'open' or programmable ones available somewhere?
That's assuming the valves are adjusted.
If u have a holley carb u can just use a normal 9/16 itll fit perfect
Awesome !
we called it static timing
Tom Ibach correct Tom its call static, when the engine is running is called dynamic timming.
What's the total
Ah a C10 !
Decent!
this is the very first time i see a 350 with alternator on that side, mine it's same!!! and some make fun of me i don't know why !?? jajaj but it look more clean i think that.
Ur voice😍😍😍
???...
Everybody got their thing I guess..
easy way to tell # 1 cyl look at your heads the head closest to front of the car is #1
Blue bird MR 20 timing
SORRY SOMETHING WRONG WITH PC HOPE U UNDER STOODI WAS SAYNIG MAKING ANY SPOT ON DISTRIBUTOR CAP # 1
I take toilet paper wet one end make a point. Stick it in number one. Turn till pops out.
the timing is wrong
the rotor should be pointed towards the number 2 but it has no relation to the block what so ever if you look at the original schematics its pointed in that direction that is the only way u can get accurate start at all times not every once in a while have a slip in the start and also have maximum power with advanced timing.
u are correct on the compression stroke part and being able to put number 1 wherever u want but u will know the difference when u take it to the track.
diegomora you haven’t a clue.
John Phillips jr Seriously tried the way the original schematics tell you and then test it after that and see what response you get from your vehicle and trust me you would never do it another way again
great informative video up until you started the engine ..cuz ya Couldnt hear a damm word u were saying , ..one would think youd fix that !!...but NOT!!.....wat a waste of viewing time !!
Skip passed all the 7-8 mins of blah blah blah. Put #1 sparkplug in hand crank the motor till you feel compression. Set your timing mark to 0, put distributor in engine pointing the rotor towards #1. Set distributor cap and start putting wires in the correct firing order. Get your timing light ready. It should start on the first try if there's gas