Guys, this process is perfect up to putting back the bleed screw in the caliper, as you lost oil when removing the syringe and tightening the bolt. Magura suggests to take the caliper above the lever to avoid this. I had that issue and this fixed it. Just a heads up for anyone else trying to bleed these brakes following this video. Cheers!
@@katsaras1 flipped the bike in the stand just enough to have the caliper higher than the lever, ensure you have already closed the bleeding port on the lever before doing that.
So many people sugesting to raise the caliper above the master cylinder.. if you want to be sure no air gets inside the caliper when you disconnect the syringe, there is an easier solution. You just leave bleeding funnel with some oil in it, connected to the lever, disconnect the syringe from the caliper, close the caliper, and then remove the funnel and close the master cylinder.
I volunteer at a community bicycle workshop It’s funny I bled a Magura the first time a couple of weeks ago using Maguras recommended system and thought afterwards this is a stupid system next time I should get a shimano bleed pot and if it’s a different thread make an adaptor. Trust Park Tool to make one. I also love the syringe holder. You took a while to get these bleed kits out but as per usual it’s better than the OEM
A little tip when doing this: before you push pistons back, install the funnel on the lever first to avoid putting too much pressure on the lever seals. I learned it the hard way and had to change the seal after destroying it like that.
@@spicymtbchannel where did you order the adapter and the cup from? I can’t find them anywhere other than in park tool’s bleed kit. I just don’t need all the other stuff in their bleed kit lol
@@darkbadger5239 I just signed into my Park Tool account on their website to check my past orders( and when I click on that order it says page cannot be found. Looks like they don’t sell it anymore.
A little trick: during this process you can adjust the bite point by using narrower piston blocks. Of course, the bite point also changes with the wear of the brake pads, but I prefer to do twice the accelerated bleeding ( with one syringe - if the used oil change is not necessary and the system is not heavily aired) with the bite point adjustmet in the season and enjoy a much better braking feel. But not everyone likes short lever stroke like me. For me, this is invaluable because this setting makes my hands less tired while driving.
The brake caliper should be removed from the bike when bleeding to get a better bleed. When disconnecting the syringe from the caliper, the caliper should be higher than the master cylinder to avoid oil leaking out when disconnecting the syringe. Even a tiny amount of oil lost will make the brakes spongy as magura master cylinders have a very small fluid reservoir compared to other manufacturers.
@@thelongestnameinthecomment9677 then you’ll have a bad bleed with lots of space between pads and rotors but I’m sure you’ll tell your buddies you’ve got so much modulation brah.
@@whycantweeatabortedbabies6259 i have the best results with this one without no need to repeat it Infinite times. Can you share us a better tutorial to see how you do and make everyone bleed there brakes better ? 😁
@@cristoof59 yes. The way magura suggests is the best way. If you do it this way there will be air in the line 100% of the time. So if you like spongy brakes I guess this is the best.
I would add a couple steps/tips: 1) after reinstalling the bleed port screw on the caliper, remove the bleed port plug on the lever, cycle the lever a couple times, and add a couple drops of Royal Blood before reinstalling the bleed port plug 2) a very important step - after removing the bleed block, clean the caliper inside and out with rubbing alcohol. Any residual brake fluid will quickly contaminate your pads/rotors leading to all kinds of badness.
That’s the only way I can bleed correct. Rotate the bike it’s the key i think, other things don’t work for me. Always more air than bevor. Thanks from Bavaria.
hi, i have magura mt trail double piston brakes and i was using avid 180 hayes 203 as disc. I bought a shimano xtr rt mt 905 ice tech disc, but my brakes aren't holding the way they used to. Should I use organic or metallic? Which one do you think is not compatible?
Can't you leave some fluid in the funnel without the plug, and put in the calipper bolt first so if any oil leaks from calipper the funnel will still have oil to keep the system full and lastly plug the brake lever hole ? Doesn't it make more sense ? That's how I bleed them to avoid loosing any fluid from the system
it doesnt make sense... when you close up bleed screw at the lever, the vacuum will hold oil inside. If you unscrewed the syring first, gravity will drain all the fluid from the funnel, and then suck in air.
@@tomasstraka5244 well I've never experiencing vacuum held fluid after I've plugged the lever first, it always leaked atleast a bit from the caliper thus loosing fluid from the system
@Park Tool: Now please work your international distributors to make this as well as the new sliding T-Handle Hex Wrenches available abroad. Here in Germany every single shop I called, told me they can not get those. And if I order them individually the cost of shipping and taxes is insane. Not to mention that Grofa wants double the US price for those (not in stock currently though).
I have brand new MT7 calipers and have performed this exact process a few times. No air at all in my lines. Lever is firm to pull. The pistons however do not retract and stay “gripping” the rotor. Any suggestions?
Yes they are. You will need to call in for them as they are not in our online parts system yet. Here is a diagram with all the part numbers. www.parktool.com/assets/doc/product/BKM-1_instructions_EN.pdf
This is a great video, but the only thing I don't get is after bleeding, when disconnecting the caliper bleed hose, any oil that drips out must be allowing an equal volume of air into the system. Magura suggests holding the caliper up nrear the lever reservoir so this won't happen. Am I nuts or am I correct in assuming this?
6:18 The step is wrong here, you should move the rear caliper higher than the brake lever (by rotating the repair stand) before unscrewing the adaptor, then shake and vibrate the rear caliper sightly to get rid of any air bubbles that might get stuck somewhere, finally add a bit more "Royal Blood" to overflow the port before tightening the port screw.
Technically, yes. You could follow all the steps here, then at the end you install the screw on the master, lift the caliper above the master, flick the line a bit to loosen air, draw some vacuum with the syringe to ensure no bubbles are trapped by the caliper, press fluid back in, then uninstall the adapter and install the screw.
Something is wrong with my MT8 brakes. After bleeding them 20 times, including at my local bike shop, and replacing the lever/master cylinder, and the pads, and the brake line, I still have an endless supply of air in the brakes! When I do the vacuum trick shown here, the air just keep coming out. After all this effort and part replacement, I'm totally out of options - ANY Help or advice would be appreciated!
There has to be air entering at some point in the system. It may be good to send Magura a message about these. How do the brakes feel? Does the lever go t the bar?
it is not recommended but is ok. Mineral oil is not regulated like DOT so the different formulas can vary quite a bit. Which leads to different boiling points.
@@parktool I got through the bleed but the syringe sucked up some floating particles from the brand new bottle of royal blood. Sad to say, those particles went into the brakes. Didn't notice till too late. Was probably from the protective film that sealed the bottle. Now I gotta flush it out when i get new fluid.. thanks for the info! Figured about the boiling point and that
Magura won't warranty if you use anything else. If they're leaking and it's not a crushwasher issue first thing I check if they're running shimano mineral oil. Around 18 different compounds in a 'mineral oil' so a misleading category. Doesn't happen to everyone but do see it occasionally and magura tech said it was his first check too. Always willing to be wrong though definitely not being a smart ass haha
Dear park tool team , love what you do , but I need to be a pointy smart ass Never ever screw something in the lever thread then the lever screw , you could end up damaging the cheap plastic low quality lever and so ending up getting more air into the system Lot of folks have allready done it and it didn't end up well As we all should now , one thing is to bleed the caliper then the System and at the end the lever Cheers
Magura Royal Blue, unobtainable ok! So if changing to Baby oil/ Shimano? Drain flush with Shimano or Baby oil. Then fill with Shinano/Baby oil! Comments appreciated here in Penang Malaysia Tq.
Magura is a mineral oil system. They prefer you use their own fluid. There are of course other brake fluid manufacturers that make compatible fluid. Never use a D.O.T fluid in a mineral oil brake.
I have found u can never get rid of all the free stroke . I hate the lever coming in close to my Knuckles.. So I have found bleed them exactly as you did , Then go ahead and bleed like a motocross bike pumping holding cracking the Caliper screw at the bottom.. I even take it one step further . button everything up , put the wheel back on and pump the brake . than remove lever screw put the bleed bottle back on add min oil . remove wheel , give the brakes a little squeeze moving the calipers pads in just a little bit NOT closing them not all the way.. Remove The bleed cup , replace screw . lightly spread the pads back , not much you don’t want to blow any seals... replace the rear wheel and now you have taken up some of that free stroke. These r race Mechanic tricks not Recommended for a beginner tackling this job. I was a pro motocrosser and a Pro motocross mechanic for years . I also worked in many bicycle shops as a head mechanic. I’m always watching the great videos like these , because we can always learn more knowledge..
Hey im a great fan of the channel just asking what might be wrong with my bike because everytime i go to the trails and after every post ride everytime i pedal is there's that rough feeling while pedalling but when i wash my bike it's back to normal again but even my bike is clean or even there's just a lilltle bit of dust or dirt after every trail ride that rough feeling keeps coming back but when i remove the chain and check the bb and cranks the bearings just feel good as new i also checked the hub its still moving freely and i just upgraded my whole drivetrain and hubs last 2 months ago isnt the short chain causing all this errors on my bike
This system can be used with magura shimano and sram (i think more as well) you just need to clean everything to make sure there's no dot fluid if you're doing a mineral oil brake (or vice versa)
Please bring out videos for all the manufacturers. All their systems have wrinkles. The worst part of Magura vs say Shimano is the fact you have to remove the bleed port screw at the bottom before screwing in the syringe. Why can’t they copy their competitors best ideas
@@parktool Because my issue is the exact same as all my friend's issues. The rotation mechanics only works with either a hammer or greasing it. If you grease it then it doesn't hold properly. If you hammer it, then it often falls apart. Not to mention the strain that it puts on your elbow when trying to tighten it. It just bad design I guess.
@@Atokhold I am sure we have some great suggestions to improve you and your friends issues. Please reach out as we do care and have a wealth of knowledge about our products.
The instruction is wrong. DO NOT press the caliper pads or pistons in without opening the master cylinder plug otherwise you can damage the master cylinder. Also attach oil can to the opened master cilinder to collect oil excess during pressing the caliper pistons.
@@alimantado373 the issue with water is if you brake hard in short time, it will start boiling and with all the bubbles in the system they you suddenly don't have any more braking power. For trials, for short, hard quick uses, I'm sure it works.
For that budget, look on sites like Craigslist or offer up for a road bike. You'll be able to find something fairly decent for that price range. No regular bike shops are going to have adult bikes that inexpensive to start with.
Go to kevcentral he is a budget mtb channel. The best entry level bike for you would be the Schwinn AL Comp mountain bike, 21 speeds, 27.5-inch wheels, grey. You can buy it off the Walmart website. It's got a tapered headset so you can upgrade in the future. Full disc brake means you will be able to upgrade to hydrulic disc brakes in the future
Just try to buy a second hand bike. I did and I had the luck to buy a full slx/xt bike around 575 usd. Just watch videos about how to distinguish usable bike to a total garbage one. Good luck
*_..."Magura suggest using their proprietary fluid"_* No shit sherlock, so magura have another product to sell and parktool can't have a "ParkTool MGR-01 mineral oil for magura"... :D However, truth is: Any mineral oil for high temperature hydraulic applications will work like a charm. Oh, for the record your o'ring aren't holding... 4:53 That's not gonna do good when you try to suck the oil in from lil funnel
Park should sell a tool that is just a vertical standing bar with a positionally adjustable caliper mount on the bottom and a lever mount on the top so the brake line can be perfectly vertically straight while it is being bled so 100% of the air bleeds out the system on the first try. Typically air gets caught everywhere the brake line bends. It would be really easy to fabricate.
These kits are for bike shops that bleed all kinds of different brake manufactures. It's very inexpensive considering how many different systems you can work on. European ignorance at it's finest. You type without letting the connection between your brain and finger complete the circuit. Also, no one is forcing anybody to buy this kit, you toothless wooly mammoth... "You better?" sounds like you have an entitlement disorder as well.
When you have Magura-Brakes, you better watch a Magura-Tutorial and buy a Magura Bleedkit, not this overpriced US stuff. You also forgot a comma, Dumbass.
Fo not buy Magura. They do not have warranty if boughtvsecond hand and levers are not repairable only replaceable and no parts sold (ask before you buy)
Guys, this process is perfect up to putting back the bleed screw in the caliper, as you lost oil when removing the syringe and tightening the bolt. Magura suggests to take the caliper above the lever to avoid this. I had that issue and this fixed it. Just a heads up for anyone else trying to bleed these brakes following this video. Cheers!
Hey! I wanted to ask you, how did you manage to take the caliper above the lever? Thanks
@@katsaras1 flipped the bike in the stand just enough to have the caliper higher than the lever, ensure you have already closed the bleeding port on the lever before doing that.
@@katsaras1 you could take it off from the brake mount and raised it higher than the lever to avoid mineral oil from escaping.
@@dhicon45 err not if it's a rear calliper and the brake hose goes through the frame!
So many people sugesting to raise the caliper above the master cylinder.. if you want to be sure no air gets inside the caliper when you disconnect the syringe, there is an easier solution. You just leave bleeding funnel with some oil in it, connected to the lever, disconnect the syringe from the caliper, close the caliper, and then remove the funnel and close the master cylinder.
I volunteer at a community bicycle workshop
It’s funny I bled a Magura the first time a couple of weeks ago using Maguras recommended system and thought afterwards this is a stupid system next time I should get a shimano bleed pot and if it’s a different thread make an adaptor.
Trust Park Tool to make one. I also love the syringe holder.
You took a while to get these bleed kits out but as per usual it’s better than the OEM
A little tip when doing this: before you push pistons back, install the funnel on the lever first to avoid putting too much pressure on the lever seals. I learned it the hard way and had to change the seal after destroying it like that.
I often forget to put in the stoppers for the pads when removing wheels and have to push them back I have never had an issue. Odd that you did.
Guy on the flute on the background be bussin
I love that you guys make an adapter to screw into the lever bleed port!!! So much better than the pressure fit Magura syringe. Nice work Park.
lever bleed port is so easy to strip and you will have to replace the whole brake lever. better a syringe!
@@spicymtbchannel where did you order the adapter and the cup from? I can’t find them anywhere other than in park tool’s bleed kit. I just don’t need all the other stuff in their bleed kit lol
@@spicymtbchannel got it! Thanks 🤘🏻
@@caleb.w Do you still have a link to the adapter ? Do you still have a link to the adapter ? Park Tool deleted the comment :D
@@darkbadger5239 I just signed into my Park Tool account on their website to check my past orders( and when I click on that order it says page cannot be found. Looks like they don’t sell it anymore.
A little trick: during this process you can adjust the bite point by using narrower piston blocks. Of course, the bite point also changes with the wear of the brake pads, but I prefer to do twice the accelerated bleeding ( with one syringe - if the used oil change is not necessary and the system is not heavily aired) with the bite point adjustmet in the season and enjoy a much better braking feel. But not everyone likes short lever stroke like me. For me, this is invaluable because this setting makes my hands less tired while driving.
The brake caliper should be removed from the bike when bleeding to get a better bleed. When disconnecting the syringe from the caliper, the caliper should be higher than the master cylinder to avoid oil leaking out when disconnecting the syringe. Even a tiny amount of oil lost will make the brakes spongy as magura master cylinders have a very small fluid reservoir compared to other manufacturers.
I'm not going to realign my calipers every time i bleed so i'm good
WELL SAID AND CORRECT!!!
@@thelongestnameinthecomment9677 then you’ll have a bad bleed with lots of space between pads and rotors but I’m sure you’ll tell your buddies you’ve got so much modulation brah.
@@mitchellmtb7202 it works fine...
I was considering to make the same exact comment until I saw yours.
Best Magura bleeding tutorial on UA-cam !
Better than the Magura official tutorials, It's a bit worrying 🙃
You’ve obviously never properly bled brakes…
@@whycantweeatabortedbabies6259 i have the best results with this one without no need to repeat it Infinite times. Can you share us a better tutorial to see how you do and make everyone bleed there brakes better ? 😁
@@cristoof59 yes. The way magura suggests is the best way. If you do it this way there will be air in the line 100% of the time. So if you like spongy brakes I guess this is the best.
The best manual at the time
Was the background music by Andre 3000?
I would add a couple steps/tips: 1) after reinstalling the bleed port screw on the caliper, remove the bleed port plug on the lever, cycle the lever a couple times, and add a couple drops of Royal Blood before reinstalling the bleed port plug 2) a very important step - after removing the bleed block, clean the caliper inside and out with rubbing alcohol. Any residual brake fluid will quickly contaminate your pads/rotors leading to all kinds of badness.
Thanks, will dare to try, however, I don't understand, what is it that happen at 7:19....???
Can you guys do the same thing for the magura hs33 rim brakes?
Check out ali clarkson's UA-cam channel, he did a very detailed video for that
That’s the only way I can bleed correct. Rotate the bike it’s the key i think, other things don’t work for me. Always more air than bevor. Thanks from Bavaria.
hi, i have magura mt trail double piston brakes and i was using avid 180 hayes 203 as disc. I bought a shimano xtr rt mt 905 ice tech disc, but my brakes aren't holding the way they used to. Should I use organic or metallic? Which one do you think is not compatible?
6:30 When I see that oil drain away, you can start again. I don't understand that there isn't a nipple in there like a motorcycle caliper.
what would you use to clean the syringes and pipes?
I had bad experiences with isopropyl and hard/clear plastics is all
I have had problems with thinners or acetone never with Iso
Thank you guys so much!!!
Music is on another level
Excellent video thanks!
my new mt5 e-stop brakes on my magura storm hc 203 rotor, already touch the rotor with the brake, if i dont brake yet, how to fix that ?
Can't you leave some fluid in the funnel without the plug, and put in the calipper bolt first so if any oil leaks from calipper the funnel will still have oil to keep the system full and lastly plug the brake lever hole ? Doesn't it make more sense ? That's how I bleed them to avoid loosing any fluid from the system
it doesnt make sense... when you close up bleed screw at the lever, the vacuum will hold oil inside. If you unscrewed the syring first, gravity will drain all the fluid from the funnel, and then suck in air.
@@tomasstraka5244 well I've never experiencing vacuum held fluid after I've plugged the lever first, it always leaked atleast a bit from the caliper thus loosing fluid from the system
@Park Tool: Now please work your international distributors to make this as well as the new sliding T-Handle Hex Wrenches available abroad. Here in Germany every single shop I called, told me they can not get those. And if I order them individually the cost of shipping and taxes is insane. Not to mention that Grofa wants double the US price for those (not in stock currently though).
I have brand new MT7 calipers and have performed this exact process a few times. No air at all in my lines. Lever is firm to pull. The pistons however do not retract and stay “gripping” the rotor. Any suggestions?
What has happened since?
Use a thinner rotor
Any upcoming video for campy hydraulic groupsets?
Syringe holder. So brilliant. Sold separately please???
Yes they are. You will need to call in for them as they are not in our online parts system yet. Here is a diagram with all the part numbers. www.parktool.com/assets/doc/product/BKM-1_instructions_EN.pdf
Umm a zip tie is cheaper?
Could you use muc-off nano tech bike cleaner to clean the calliper
Hola como puedo ordenar los adaptadores para el embudo gracias bendiciones saludos desde san Diego California
can u do x spark brakes?
This is a great video, but the only thing I don't get is after bleeding, when disconnecting the caliper bleed hose, any oil that drips out must be allowing an equal volume of air into the system. Magura suggests holding the caliper up nrear the lever reservoir so this won't happen. Am I nuts or am I correct in assuming this?
You're correct
6:18 The step is wrong here, you should move the rear caliper higher than the brake lever (by rotating the repair stand) before unscrewing the adaptor, then shake and vibrate the rear caliper sightly to get rid of any air bubbles that might get stuck somewhere, finally add a bit more "Royal Blood" to overflow the port before tightening the port screw.
We have never had an issue of air in the system with this technique.
Technically, yes. You could follow all the steps here, then at the end you install the screw on the master, lift the caliper above the master, flick the line a bit to loosen air, draw some vacuum with the syringe to ensure no bubbles are trapped by the caliper, press fluid back in, then uninstall the adapter and install the screw.
Well spotted, and It is also better to loosen and then lightly tighten the lower calliper clamp bolt to spin the lever.
Anyone have issues pressuring the system after loosing fluid?
Something is wrong with my MT8 brakes. After bleeding them 20 times, including at my local bike shop, and replacing the lever/master cylinder, and the pads, and the brake line, I still have an endless supply of air in the brakes! When I do the vacuum trick shown here, the air just keep coming out. After all this effort and part replacement, I'm totally out of options - ANY Help or advice would be appreciated!
There has to be air entering at some point in the system. It may be good to send Magura a message about these. How do the brakes feel? Does the lever go t the bar?
Any tips on using just one syringe? Feels like I can't get the air out, the lever feels really mushy and there is hardly any bite on the brakes.
Repeat the process a few times and make sure that you get all the air out of the system.
what is this dynamometric tool?
Can I mix other mineral oil in with the royal blood?
it is not recommended but is ok. Mineral oil is not regulated like DOT so the different formulas can vary quite a bit. Which leads to different boiling points.
@@parktool I got through the bleed but the syringe sucked up some floating particles from the brand new bottle of royal blood. Sad to say, those particles went into the brakes. Didn't notice till too late. Was probably from the protective film that sealed the bottle. Now I gotta flush it out when i get new fluid.. thanks for the info! Figured about the boiling point and that
Magura won't warranty if you use anything else. If they're leaking and it's not a crushwasher issue first thing I check if they're running shimano mineral oil. Around 18 different compounds in a 'mineral oil' so a misleading category.
Doesn't happen to everyone but do see it occasionally and magura tech said it was his first check too. Always willing to be wrong though definitely not being a smart ass haha
How to buy park tools?
Do it for tektro brakes also
Coming soon!
Dear park tool team , love what you do , but I need to be a pointy smart ass
Never ever screw something in the lever thread then the lever screw , you could end up damaging the cheap plastic low quality lever and so ending up getting more air into the system
Lot of folks have allready done it and it didn't end up well
As we all should now , one thing is to bleed the caliper then the System and at the end the lever
Cheers
Magura Royal Blue, unobtainable ok! So if changing to Baby oil/ Shimano? Drain flush with Shimano or Baby oil. Then fill with Shinano/Baby oil! Comments appreciated here in Penang Malaysia Tq.
What is the thickness of the blocks, please.
The bleed blocks are double sided, at 10mm and 12mm.
Thank you very well.
What oil can you use?
Magura is a mineral oil system. They prefer you use their own fluid. There are of course other brake fluid manufacturers that make compatible fluid. Never use a D.O.T fluid in a mineral oil brake.
@@parktool alright thanks for the comment👍
On reconnaît bien Jean-Pierre Marielle, mais j'ai du mal à retrouver le film. Quelqu'un peut m'aider ?
Comment dire , c'est la Perfection
I have found u can never get rid of all the free stroke . I hate the lever coming in close to my Knuckles.. So I have found bleed them exactly as you did , Then go ahead and bleed like a motocross bike pumping holding cracking the Caliper screw at the bottom.. I even take it one step further . button everything up , put the wheel back on and pump the brake . than remove lever screw put the bleed bottle back on add min oil . remove wheel , give the brakes a little squeeze moving the calipers pads in just a little bit NOT closing them not all the way.. Remove The bleed cup , replace screw . lightly spread the pads back , not much you don’t want to blow any seals... replace the rear wheel and now you have taken up some of that free stroke. These r race Mechanic tricks not Recommended for a beginner tackling this job. I was a pro motocrosser and a Pro motocross mechanic for years . I also worked in many bicycle shops as a head mechanic. I’m always watching the great videos like these , because we can always learn more knowledge..
Yeah these breaks suck... shimano xt so much better.. I’ll use the mt8s for now.
Do magura hs33
Will add that to the Wave 2 list, but need to pull my bike down from the rafters and clean off the cobwebs.
How can you possibly create a vacuum, if you use an open cup at the top?????!!!
Hey im a great fan of the channel just asking what might be wrong with my bike because everytime i go to the trails and after every post ride everytime i pedal is there's that rough feeling while pedalling but when i wash my bike it's back to normal again but even my bike is clean or even there's just a lilltle bit of dust or dirt after every trail ride that rough feeling keeps coming back but when i remove the chain and check the bb and cranks the bearings just feel good as new i also checked the hub its still moving freely and i just upgraded my whole drivetrain and hubs last 2 months ago isnt the short chain causing all this errors on my bike
How dirty is the bike getting during the ride?
@@parktool even though i dont go to the trailsjust some road rides with my mtb sfter every post ride there's always that problem
"Magura?" Huh. At least it's Calvin! This is a lovely kit, at $120 vs $30 for a Shimano setup it's for bike shops.
This system can be used with magura shimano and sram (i think more as well) you just need to clean everything to make sure there's no dot fluid if you're doing a mineral oil brake (or vice versa)
Wut about those hydraulic with hose? How to bleed that?
John Lenard Radovan stoopid
Whyy
Any hydraulic break need bleed right?
I don’t understand your question
Please bring out videos for all the manufacturers. All their systems have wrinkles. The worst part of Magura vs say Shimano is the fact you have to remove the bleed port screw at the bottom before screwing in the syringe.
Why can’t they copy their competitors best ideas
Stay tuned!
It's one screw? It take 30 seconds
It would be great if your bike stand would work...
Hi! If you are having an issue with your stand why don't you reach out to us via our warranty page: www.parktool.com/warranty
@@parktool Because my issue is the exact same as all my friend's issues. The rotation mechanics only works with either a hammer or greasing it. If you grease it then it doesn't hold properly. If you hammer it, then it often falls apart. Not to mention the strain that it puts on your elbow when trying to tighten it. It just bad design I guess.
@@Atokhold I am sure we have some great suggestions to improve you and your friends issues. Please reach out as we do care and have a wealth of knowledge about our products.
@@parktool Okay, will do, thanks.
Those pads are hugging the rotor at the end of the video and seemingly not retracting...
Magura hs33
Brake bleeding is simple with Shimano, Magura not so much
First owe me a park tool tool
The instruction is wrong. DO NOT press the caliper pads or pistons in without opening the master cylinder plug otherwise you can damage the master cylinder. Also attach oil can to the opened master cilinder to collect oil excess during pressing the caliper pistons.
"It's important to always use the appropriate brake fluid..."
BS, baby oil works perfectly.
Actually true. But only if you don't mind your brakes smelling like diapers :D
I used KY and now my braking just glides
Trials riders used to use water, but it freezes in winter :)
@@alimantado373 the issue with water is if you brake hard in short time, it will start boiling and with all the bubbles in the system they you suddenly don't have any more braking power. For trials, for short, hard quick uses, I'm sure it works.
What’s up with the music? I mean, what could that weird beat possibly add to the learning experience?
Nice kit, but Magura’s video is better... magura brakes have lots of tricks and you have to be careful...
Calvin: "Remove pads from the caliper ..."
*Me 2 mins later*: "f******ck these f*cking magnetic things @%%*##!!!*** 😡😡😵
My budget is around 300$ can anybody suggest me budget entry level mountain bike? Im not gonna run onto mountain.just roads 😊☺
then buy a road bike .-.
For that budget, look on sites like Craigslist or offer up for a road bike. You'll be able to find something fairly decent for that price range. No regular bike shops are going to have adult bikes that inexpensive to start with.
Go to kevcentral he is a budget mtb channel. The best entry level bike for you would be the Schwinn AL Comp mountain bike, 21 speeds, 27.5-inch wheels, grey. You can buy it off the Walmart website. It's got a tapered headset so you can upgrade in the future. Full disc brake means you will be able to upgrade to hydrulic disc brakes in the future
Just try to buy a second hand bike. I did and I had the luck to buy a full slx/xt bike around 575 usd.
Just watch videos about how to distinguish usable bike to a total garbage one.
Good luck
*_..."Magura suggest using their proprietary fluid"_*
No shit sherlock, so magura have another product to sell and parktool can't have a "ParkTool MGR-01 mineral oil for magura"... :D
However, truth is: Any mineral oil for high temperature hydraulic applications will work like a charm.
Oh, for the record your o'ring aren't holding... 4:53
That's not gonna do good when you try to suck the oil in from lil funnel
Park should sell a tool that is just a vertical standing bar with a positionally adjustable caliper mount on the bottom and a lever mount on the top so the brake line can be perfectly vertically straight while it is being bled so 100% of the air bleeds out the system on the first try. Typically air gets caught everywhere the brake line bends. It would be really easy to fabricate.
When you have Magura-Brakes, you better watch a Magura-Tutorial and buy a Magura Bleedkit not this overpriced US stuff.
These kits are for bike shops that bleed all kinds of different brake manufactures. It's very inexpensive considering how many different systems you can work on. European ignorance at it's finest. You type without letting the connection between your brain and finger complete the circuit. Also, no one is forcing anybody to buy this kit, you toothless wooly mammoth... "You better?" sounds like you have an entitlement disorder as well.
When you have Magura-Brakes, you better watch a Magura-Tutorial and buy a Magura Bleedkit, not this overpriced US stuff.
You also forgot a comma, Dumbass.
@@FarmerFpv lol
Fo not buy Magura. They do not have warranty if boughtvsecond hand and levers are not repairable only replaceable and no parts sold (ask before you buy)
Throw away.. get shimano..