How to bleed Magura MT brakes
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- Опубліковано 30 лип 2024
- The Last in the brake bleed series. How to bleed Magura mt brakes, step by step. Using simple tools I show you how to bleed theses tricky brakes. Remember to use Magura Royal Blood. Any questions please leave them in the comments below, please subscribe and share.
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Also note if you use the proper syringes from magura in particular for the lever no screw nipple required and much easier to bleed, once you've done a few times for practice there no different to any other bleed. Also don't forget to flick the lever a few times to get the last bit of air out which I didn't see in the video, gives you positive lever feel.
Good job 👍
But why can't you just screw in a jug at the lever like Shimano, and burp the brakes? I work on cargo bikes and getting lever lower than the calliper is a PITA!
Hi, I find the best method is the use a 20ml syringe with no inner strait into the top of the lever bleed port, fill in with fluid, use a syringe on the calliper though
Yeah, I 2nd your comment, the Magura reservoir bleed port should only be a 'friction' fitted syringe ... I read somewhere in the Magura notes that anything else screwed in (apart from the plastic port screw) is very likely to damage the threads and lead to leakage!
Didn't think to turn the caliper on its side to prevent air from coming in... great tip, thank you!
you are welcome
Thanks for the video brother! Also I run that same set up (HC3 MT7 and MDR-P 220mm Rotors) on my 3000w eBike. Absolutely love it, best brake system I’ve ever used on a bike.
Hi, Thanks for watching, and your comments.
Been waiting for this since you first mentioned it, Brilliant video as per usual, Cheers Dave!
Your welcome
Brilliant and first class video. Thanks for all the advice its very helpful and very much appreciated please keep producing more videos. Thank you
+1
Magura has been around for so long you think they could design a bleed screw like SRAM uses that allows you to remove the syringe without introducing air. Great video, I love your powered lift for the Park stand !
Hi, Thanks for watching,
Like many things from old industrial societies, Magura brakes expect a bit of mechanical understanding. There's no need for what you request, other than your own sense of convenience. All you need to understand is that trapped air is the enemy of a hydraulic system. And then understand the way you have chosen to bleed the system. Usually, the manufacturer's way is the best way.
Magura's choice of bleed port screw on the MC/lever suggests they expect you to know fasteners, materials, and tool use finesse. Not the best for a hamfist who never turns a screw or wrench. Easy as pie for anyone who examines the MC/lever and the screw chosen by Magura. Gentle efforts are all that's required, but that's beyond some, it seems.
The port on the caliper assumes you'll detach the caliper from the frame and let it rest horizontal -- if you want to do it most efficiently & effectively.
Managing air between a syringe and a MC port or caliper port is a matter of understaning how air gets in there, more than what fastener you chose.
Absolutely banging video once again, really wanted this one 😎
Glad you liked it!!
Im not sure why some other videos fail to put the caliper above the lever... it baffles me. that was the ticket in my case .... brought the process to a successful finish. time for a beer
Hi, Thanks for watching, loving your Wraps
Excellent stuff!
Thanks
great vid as always , thank you ;-)
Thanks again!
Thanks for the video mate
No problem 👍 thanks for watching
Cheers dave much appreciated mate 😊👍🇬🇧
Hi, Thanks for watching and your comment.
Hi! Great video, thanks! I just bought a new MDR-P discs and I tried to fit it to my MT-5, where were standard 1.8mm rotors so far. But these new 2.0mm MDR-P are so thick, that there is no space between pads and rotors, so it constantly brakes.
I tried to push pistons more inside and bleed it with no breaking pads (yellow tool inserted) but when I've brake, pistons went back to the rotor and stayed in contact.
Thank You for every tip.
Have a great day!
Ivan
Glad it helped
The MDR-P disc is the same thickness as all Magura rotors (Storm etc), if the brakes are bled with the correct bleed block (which I didn't see in this video) you should have no problems.
Hiya! Great video, very helpful. I am from the south however so didn't understand a word of it ;)
Thanks for watching, lol
Nice approach. I own a MT5 set. I have used a Force bleed kit (a cheap one, yet it has brass adapters). Force adapter+shimano funnel at the lever side, and similar setup at the caliper. Results: front - strong, firm bite point, like a Shimano; rear - a little spongy, yet the bite point is consistent and the brake has power. The only thing that drives me mad is a judder developed by the front brake... Caliper is aligned, the rotor is true (Storm centerlock 203). Bedding in done properly. Ran out of ideas on this issue, any recommendation ?
Hi, thanks for watching, there are so many reasons why you can get a judder, the only way to solve it is a process of elimination, if you have the same rotor on the back swap it, its just a case of changing things slowly, and re-setup, sorry I cant be more helpful.
Same issue with my MT5 front on my hard tail. MT7's on other two rides......no issue.
why you putting piston in? after bleeding when they come back to previous position there will be lack of fluid in the system
Hi @Yorkshire Bike Mechanic, Thanks for the video. Very helpful! My brakes work great again. I see you are working on a Cube fully MTB? I own a Cube fully too and was wondering how to remove (clean and re-lube) the bearings in the seat stay? Mine only have an opening one side but when loosened they don't come off. They seem to have some from of specific functioning and I am wondering how they work. regards, Raid.
Hi, thanks for watching and your comments, the cube is very much like most seat stay pivots, next one that I do I will film it.
Ah that would be great. Looking forward to it!
nice video very pro
Hi, Thank you for watching and your comment
nice one
Thanks for the visit and the comment.
The syringe should be pushed into the bleed port on the Master. Anything other than the bleed screw being screwed in to the master will most likely damage it.
Always best to take the caliper off and hold to the bleed port upright too
Merci pour le tuto , j ai essayer d autre méthode et seul la votre fonctionne sur magura mt7.👍
I have brand new MT7 calipers and have performed this exact process a few times. No air at all in my lines. Lever is firm to pull. The pistons however do not retract and stay “gripping” the rotor. Any suggestions? I also removed a small amount of oil thinking it was overfilled but with no change.
Hi, Thanks for watching and your comments, it's so difficult to fully understand without been in front of the bike, the hydraulic effect of returning pistons can be restricted if the is debris around the piston enclosure or there is a tiny pocket of air behind the piston, or they dont come out square due to mis alignment. both brakes the same problem?
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic Yes. Both calipers have same issue. Spoke to a Magura rep in the USA and they will send me replacements and hope that solves my dilemma. He also tells me that the pistons should naturally return (retract) to their start position, even out of the box dry and not even installed. I'm not sure that is accurate as i have to manually press the pistons back to home while bleeding. There is no spring or other mechanism that i know of causing the pistons to retract. I assume it was a vacuum effect when releasing the lever.
@@mspring6387 You ever get this sorted out? I'm also in the US and have installed MT7s on 2 bikes, same issue. The pistons don't retract much and just rub. Googling indicates this is common, but it's driving me nuts.
@@uberamd I had Magura send me a new set of calipers and the 2nd pair was certainly better but i still find the pistons do not retract as they should. So i allowed the minimal bit of rubbing and eventually the pads were worked in and no longer rubbing, but at the sake of losing some longevity of the pads.
I watched this after faffing about for an hour. Should have watched beforehand, probably would have sworn less 😂 Great content Dave 👍🏻
Hi, Thanks for watching and your comments
Do you have a link for the syringe's you use? Lovin the info 😊
www.medisave.co.uk/home, the fittings are direct from magura
cracking video
Thank you
I'm experiencing a little bit of knocking/pulsating noise on my rear Magura MT7 brake. Do you have a trick for fixing that?
Hi, thanks for watching, there could be many reasons for that and without looking I couldn't say
👍Will you be doing a Hayes Dominion A4 brake bleed video?
Hi, Thanks for watching, If we get a bike with the Hayes brake fitted I will do one.
No need for blocks for the pistons while your pushing fluid through the system?
Hi, thanks for your comment, Not in this case, not much pressure on the syringes
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic I tried this on my MT8 brake bleed and the pistons blow out, it was a mess.
It seems his method of simultaneously pulling and pushing equalizes the pressure so there's not a lot of net force, unlike just pushing at one end. Just a guess
@@benalmada hi Ben, that’s correct.
There is zero reason not to put bleed blocks in when doing this procedure. Save yourself a potential huge headache.
How good are the mk7 breaks for a eBike are they better than hope v4
Hi Connor, Many people love the MT range, Danny Hart has them on his downhill bike but seeing how he rides I don't think he uses them. I have experience not just from a service point of view but a rider also both MT and Hope V4. My personal experience is that V4 are the best brakes I have ever used, providing you use the vented rotors, Expensive but amazing once they are set up correctly, this also applies to maintenance too.
Don't know about a comparison but my MT7's are as good as I can imagine anyone would need
@@GedandMichele Hi, the MTs are a great brake, it's all about the feel & feather and a personal thing, shimanos are a great brake two, the saints are amazing but again a completely different feel.
Hi did you lock the pistons with the blue lock off key ?
Hi, No I didn't, there was not enough pressure going through the system to move them.
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanicbled my brakes today and the pistons in my mugara MT7S just popped out because I never used the lock
Bedankt
Thank you
A bit if a late comment.....do you think this procedure would work on TRP brakes ?
Hi thanks for watching, it depends on the model, I’m going to revise this video I’ve been experimenting and come up with a better method for magura
Remember - blue blood has always been classed as royal. Alas, what colour is the mineral oil 😏
I've done this 3 times with my mt7. Whenever I undo the lever syringe, fluid pours out the hole, and I have no lever firmness. Frustrating
You’ve probably overpressurized the system. Try to do it with an open cup or syringe at the lever instead of a syringe with a plunger.
I think u have just saved me throwing my mt7s in the bin 😂😅🤣😅
I can understand your frustration, so tricky
I think it’s because I didn’t turn the caliber so kept letting in air so hopefully it will work this time 😂😂
@@apaquatics6172 keep the caliper higher than the lever, good luck.
I spent best part of 3hrs trying to bleed my rear brake recently. Great brakes power wise, but simply the worst to bleed. Watched several different video tutorials, all a little different. And the lever still feels like 💩. I was so frustrated I went shopping for a replacement. I am by no means a novice bike mechanic, and many give sram/avid brakes a hard time. They're easy compared to magura
@@jim_nix71 I was in the same position until I come across this video and now I’ve bleed mine twice now since and they have been amazing
OK!
Personally i agree its a nightmare to bleed,Plus the plastic lever screw is the worst design ever,Im in process of doing the Magura shimano botch with shimano levers,hopefully it works better than full Magura set up,
Not the easiest brake to bleed thats for sure.
Where has he got those orange caliper rings I can't find orange anywhere!
Hi, Thanks for watching and your comment, I think we have some in the shop I will check for you
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic yes please that would be a help if possible. Cheers!
The bleed screw at the calliper is the main flaw of the Magura system during a full bleed. The plastic bleed screw at the lever, or master cylinder, is designed to strip if too much torque is applied. This saves the master cylinder from becoming useless or destroyed, unlike some Shimano master cylinders with metal bleed screws. If you’re worried about stripping a plastic Magura bleed screw …reduce your torque and have some spares on hand. They’re cheaper than a master cylinder. Ask how I know.
During a full bleed it is important that the front or rear brake calliper be at the lowest point. For the rear brake you may need to position your bike in a vertical position so that any trapped air can rise to the master cylinder. Flick the brake lever to release trapped air in the master cylinder with bleed blocks in place.
A funnel with a threaded adapter, or an open syringe, at the master cylinder is fine for a Magura full bleed. A push and pull can be done at the calliper (several times) and insure no air is being introduced into the system. A closed and tight system is important here.
Keep doing a push and pull until no more air is observed. Tap on areas which could trap air. Once you’re satisfied with the full Magura bleed, close the system, clean things up, reinstall everything and go for a ride. A rough ride. Some trapped air will be released during this ride and the brakes may feel spongy or completely useless.
Do a “mini-bleed “ at the master cylinder with a funnel or open syringe. Flick the lever until no additional air bubbles appear. This only takes a few minutes but is necessary after a full bleed. Close the system again and enjoy your next ride.
Magura brake system can be tricky at first but the feel of the brake system is unlike any other I have tried …especially on eMTB’s with 220mm rotors. Brake fade during long descents is almost nonexistent and I like the feel.
I’ve learned a few techniques from this video. It’s good to see how others tackle a Magura install or bleed.
Hi, Thanks for your comments
Why is it a flaw, just because it requires the mechanic to know what he's doing? There's an ample interval between the minimum force that's necessary and excessive force. Just take it easy, that's all. Also, every mechanic should have a torque meter and follow Magura's recommended torque, but even without one it's not difficult.
@@borthwey
Hi David. IMO, the bleed screw at the master cylinder on my MT7 brake (f/r) seems to be plastic and uses a T25. Thankfully it requires very little torque to close the system after a full-bleed or mini-bleed is preformed. In most cases I don’t use a torque wrench for this screw (-2nm) and rely on sufficient torque, to close the system, with a T25 screw driver. The material of this screw is likely designed to fail if it is accidentally over-torqued thus preventing any damage to the master cylinder. (Not a flaw imo). A replacement screw would only cost Pennie’s if it was accidentally stripped. (I have a couple of spare screws but haven’t needed them).
You may be commenting on the bleed screw at the calliper. If you know of an easier or better method I’d be happy to learn.
During a full bleed I remove the screw at the calliper and screw in an adapter which attaches to a clear tube, which attaches to the syringe. During this process, or step, some brake fluid is spilled and possibly some air is introduced into the system. No big deal. But a different method could be used here. Torque pressure of this screw, at the calliper, is very important (probably +2nm, I can’t remember).
Regardless, a mini-bleed is usually required after the initial bleed. A couple of rides, (or vibration) seems to release trapped air, possibly from the callipers. I use different orientation of both the front and rear calliper to try and prevent any trapped air but a mini-bleed seems necessary after a few (rough) rides. Regular maintenance is key also (pad wear, fluid levels, cleaning, alignment etc) like any brake system.
i have magura 5 2018 e bike 4000 miles never needed to bleed brakes
Best left alone, if they work well leave them,
CAREFUL. if you push the pistons back into the housing without looosening the bleed port on the lever, you can blow-out the weakened square side that covers the bladder on the lever. I've done it and it trashes the levers.
It happened in this video too. As you can see at 15:19, while he pressurises the lever side, oil escapes through the bladder that he ripped when pushing back the pistons without opening the lever bleed port.
Hi, thank you for watching and your comment. This is normal, it's a breather port to to allow air into the top of the reservoir to allow the diaphragm to sink as fluid gets forced into the caliper, the diaphragm should not split unless over forced.
Nice work stand….
Thanks for watching, we felt that it was an investment, im not getting any younger and ebikes can be tricky to lift.
well that didnt go well..just followed your video for my no name chinese brakes that seem to be magura based..thought i did everything right..but lever goes straight to the bar now..will have another go on weekend..
Magura brakes are the most difficult to bleed. I’m going to do a revised video on them
Not to get air from piston leave lever screw closed and start first with caliper
Thanks for watching.
why didnt you use bleed blocks
Hi thanks for watching, I don’t use bleed blocks at all on any brake, I prefer to have a bigger volume of fluid behind the pistons so I can expel any tiny particles of air by pushing the pistons back from being further out, gives more feel
No bleed block/travel spacer? That’s a first…
Hi, thanks for watching and your comments,
good video help & advice -- I have upgraded my Omnium cargo bike with 203 mm rotors and new Magura brakes. Some Bullit cargo bike users say them Maguras were heavy maintenance and they'd switch fro Shimano hydro disc brakes. Is it true, that them were heavy maintenance in comparison to Shimono brakes?? See here (w/timestamp) ua-cam.com/video/IoQH2aZ8l0A/v-deo.html
Hi, Thanks for watching and your comments, Cargo bikes, in fact all ebikes need excellent brakes including big rotors to cope with the heat and stopping power needed. magura 4 pots, hope v4s and shimano saints are the 3 main contenders
I did non of that 😂😂 so I had no brakes 😂😂
Hi, Thanks for watching and your comments
Bleeding Block?!🤔
Hi, thanks for watching, no need for bleeding blocks unless your heavy handed
Come on magura , just copy the shimano blead stop screw....i downt even sell magura any more, it is to critical to make them work properly.
Hi, thanks for watching, one of the most difficult brakes to bleed for sure
Rear of the caliper was still higher than the bleed port when filling, it needs to be vertical when filling the system. Can't say no air at all there very well could be air trapped. Also never showed a lever flick all around mediocre video in a technical job.
Bad non professional upside down explanation , too much unnecessary talk. Got to the point!
Hi, thanks for watching and your comment.