Webasto Coolant Heater Re-Plumb | 1st Gen Cummins
Вставка
- Опубліковано 20 жов 2024
- Today I show you how I re-plumbed my Webasto Thermo Top Evo coolant heater in order to make it more efficient in heating up my engine before driving my truck!
Stay tuned for more videos!
Tyler,
*************************************************************************************
SUBSCRIBE:
www.youtube.co...
*************************************************************************************
SHARE THIS VIDEO LINK: • Webasto Coolant Heater...
*************************************************************************************
SHOP OVENS GARAGE MERCH: ovensgarage.my...
*************************************************************************************
BUY THE ITEMS IN THIS VIDEO (AMAZON.COM):
5/8ID Heater Hose: amzn.to/47IHB1w
3/4"NPT male to 1/2"NPT female: amzn.to/3Gy49pr
1/2"NPT street tee: amzn.to/416fqHa
5/8"ID Hose barb to 1/2NPTmale: amzn.to/47D7fV7
1/2"NPT male pipe plug: amzn.to/3GqgRGP
Coolant sensor replacement: amzn.to/4a0Vt8L
*************************************************************************************
BUY THE ITEMS IN THIS VIDEO (AMAZON.CA):
5/8ID Heater Hose: amzn.to/480WXxX
3/4"NPT male to 1/2"NPT female: amzn.to/47ZI8vD
1/2"NPT street tee: amzn.to/47YavtX
5/8"ID Hose barb to 1/2NPTmale: amzn.to/47HBCd4
1/2"NPT male pipe plug: amzn.to/47CjTnm
Coolant sensor replacement: amzn.to/3Rqncbv
**************************************************************************************
CONTACT ME:
E-Mail: tylerovens@me.com
**************************************************************************************
Keep us posted on how well it works. Great content. I like your new indoor shop 👍
Aleays enjoyed your videos on our trucks. Professional. Your workshop is looking good.
Thanks appreciate it!
I intend to run a wabasto coolant heater on a heui motor . I believe that I can modify an oil pan as a heat exchanger off of the webasto exaust & I wanna set up a thermo switch to run my fass pump to keep fuel from gelling up (keep it running thru that nicely warmed engine block .)
That ought to warm it up better! Good luck. Nice new shop too 🙂
I did the exact install as in your original wabasto heater video on my 1990 cummins. It worked for a few cycles and heated the coolant to about the 1/4 temp line consistently (180 thermostat in the truck) -15 / -20c outside temps. but then started throwing overheat error codes and not running. brought the heater into the Wabasso dealer and they say the unit all checks out. gonna throw the heater back in the truck today and try and find the issue.
Hopefully it works out for you. Honestly it's been working great for me but I feel like I can get it dialed in a bit better and have the truck run more efficiently in the cold temps.
Keep it going!
Nice job and shop! I had an electric frost heater on my diesel jetta when i was in Winnipeg and without it she wouldnt start. Curious to see how the webasto holds up at -40C.
Great video Tyler I just replaced my coolant temp sensor did you torque yours to a certain spec?
I just put some thread sealant on and tightened it up good and tight so it wouldn't leak. No torque spec.
DUDE put some plumbing insulation on those hoses. Think how much heat you're losing lol.
I run a 190 thermostat and cab heat works much better.
Just ordered a 190 from mishimoto. Does cummins make a 190 I couldn't find any part numbers
Not a ton of help but , I thought I read about a 195 deg one for maybe the VP trucks or industrial
@@OvensGarage I used an At22963 from John Deere because it was readily available and like $10 but that was a decade ago. looks like they are about $20 now.
I flushed the cooing system , pulled all the hoses flushed in both directions repeatedly till clear. Then toped off with water and 1ga(3.79l) of white vinegar, ran it for 500mi(~800k) over ~2weeks. Re flushed as before till clear. Toped off with 5ga distilled water ran 200mi(~320k) drained re filled 5x to dilute/ flush the acidic vinegar out completely.
This made it so that I could not run heat on max with out opening the windows to keep from cooking at -37 going over the pass.
6months later my oil cooler popped( i dont think it had anything to do with the acid flush oil cooler is stainless) the inside looked like it just came out of a hot tank( not a speck of rust pristine gray cast iorn).
To clean out the residue from the 2.5ga oil dumped into the cooling system I used a product from cummins called "Restore". It is an acidic designed to do what the vinegar did and dissolve the oil contamination . 100k mi (~160k km) later at rebuild it still looked pristine, 500k mo on the clock.
Do you know if brass causes galvanized rust on cast iron? I don't see many manufacturers using brass fittings. Maybe the material is too expensive. I am doing a heat exchanger delete, wondering to use steel or brass.
Modern rigs don't run brass due to aluminum radiator/heater core mixed with copper/brass and steel cause the galvanic action you speek of. Stick to AL or brass/copper don't mix all 3
I’ve got a zero start 120V 1500W heater on my diesel scout. 1 hour and the temp is between cold and operating temp. Those Webasto heaters are expensive! 😂
Yeah, I'm thinking I need to change out my thermostat because it's probably opening up too soon and the webasto isn't getting it up to temp.
@@OvensGarage well Cummins has designed that engine to run with a thermostat that you probably have installed. I wouldn’t replace it. With a block heater and a coolant heater and a pad heater on the oil pan your truck should be good for winter cold starts. If not you may need to look into your grid heater.
@@Ptbocam
Cummins spec is grid is prefurd at 32f but not mandatory till 0f , down to -20f at witch point the block heater becomes mandatory. My 91.5 will start down to-19f at -21f it just won't spin fast enough to fire due to the extra load from the oil pump went from slow crank to sounding like a low battery slowing crank, wait till it warmed to -15f and she fired without charging the battery or plugging in.
My understanding is these factory gauges are not very accurate. I would like to see some aftermarket temp and oil pressure gauges to give you a better idea of what's going on.
Yeah I've seen some guys gauges read totally different. I need to get a laser temp reader that might help in the mean time to figure some things out
@OvensGarage
On my 91.5 that 1st tick is 100f 2nd 130f 3 needle widths under the 3rd is 180f ( just left of straight down) 3rd tick 190f. Mesured with ir temp gun at the removed heater line/ t stat and after market gage ( digital/ analog) w/sinder installed beside the water neck.
What is your thought/experience on the visor? I have an original Lund that I want to put on my W350. That truck already has a ton of wind noise from the rain lip.
I just installed a W250 visor on my truck and I haven't noticed any more wind noise from that area. Most of the noise still comes from my windows.
Doesn't make a difference. The biggest thing for wind noise is the window and door seals.
Hate to tell you but it was plumbed better before the head gasket is designed to force coolant to flow from water pump to back of block then up into the head and back to the front out thermostat.
I'm not sure about that. Doesn't the coolant flow into block then directly up around each cylinder into the head? That's why number 6 apparently gets hotter and people run that coolant bypass.
@@OvensGarage It barely flows up around each cylinder they are like 1/8" diameter holes really just to keep air from being trapped. The primary flow path is back the block then up the huge passage in the back right corner then back thru the head to the front.