The M120 is a cool engine. I know you are still in the learning process as we all are and no dig for you buying a cool engine in search of a body. I have learned from my struggles if you want to find a engine for a powertrain swap buy a clapped out S600. They are cheap enough and then you have a rolling test bed to sort what you will be pulling and have all the bits needed. Especially given a lot of critical parts are NLA. Looking at that engine you need a lot and will still need a transmission to back it. Maybe a later 722.6 from a 97 and newer. My .02
Buying a roached out 600 is something I plan on doing. I bought this engine because it "only has 59k miles" on it and the place gives a 5 year warranty. The engine is a '92 so I'm (probably incorrectly) assuming it will fit my '92 transmission. My thought process is the 400SE in '92 was also available in 600SE(L) form so the transmissions should be very similar if not the same. I do concur that buying a whole roached car will be easier and cheaper than sourcing each part individually.
I have just joined your channel. Very informative. Never thought I would see someone that has a passion for the M119 & M120 as I do. Beautiful engines. I have one of each for projects. Can't wait to get them running. Thank you.
Agreed! I just picked up a 400E a coupla months ago and the vids were very inspirational. Not going to tear the engine down but had to unbodge the intake hoses and will need to get the ETA rebuilt and probably do the disto and wires. Runs badly now won’t idle but I think that’s the ETA
Greetings and Welcome Back Brother...This Engine Is Master Peice and This Is a Massive Project... Am Looking Forward For More Knowledge About The Engine... All The Best 👍🏾
Check out the Dutch guy’s rebuild of a M120 then stuffing it in a 201. Lot of good details on the engine rebuild. Took a lot of chassis and engine ancillary bits modifications but the car was insane. He used stand-alone ECU and transmission controller.
I'm sorry I missed this comment. I don't know if this engine ran. If it did, it wasn't very well. A pulley was bent, and the timing chain guides were on their last leg. The main reason I bought an M120 was to take it apart and rebuild it for my channel.
@@FriendlyMBTech I see...I've been mechanic 40 years....first hand experience, road to hell is paved with good intentions. the chain guides and pulley are superfluous, could have been changed without total disassembly. there's many "rebuilt" engines out there worse off than before being taken apart, and parts are hard to find, expensive. so is competent machine shops. its better to only replace what's broken or worn out on something as complex as an M120. but hindsight is always 20/20. at this point good luck, strive to use all FACTORY MB parts, not Chinese repops
@tunnelportterror I'm a Master Certified Mercedes-Benz Technician. I know how expensive this endeavor is. I only buy parts from our parts department unless the part is no longer available. The main point of my channel is to help people who might otherwise be apprehensive to attempt repairs on their own engine. As a mechanic of 40 years, you should know more than anyone how much of a bad idea it would be to buy an engine from a junk yard without looking inside of it before installation. Good thing I did, too, since I found blocked coolant passages between the block and the head.
@@FriendlyMBTech do a cranking compression and oil pressure check. run it first. most M120 motors still run. I got mine with 108k and have been beating balls off it 4 years bouncing off rev limiter. 135mph. what's this "if"? I build and repair ALL MAKES engines, have Degree in Automotive Technology. My first complete rebuild from bare block was 1984. How long have you been doing this? I worked in over road tractor trailer rebuild shop, there were 3 tractors inside, and 5 outside every day. in chassis motor rebuilds. Mack, International, Peterbilt, GMC, Cummins, Caterpillar, etc. they'd take back a finished one, drop another one off. trucking companies. you're rebuilding an engine that would have run fine anyway. and I'll stand on that statement. no home driveway mechanic should attempt rebuilding that v12. those cars have other much severe problems, such as biodegradable wiring harnesses that fall apart. I had to rewire mine to both MAFs from the coffin box. the engine, trans, rear on those cars v12 is bulletproof. fix it when it needs it, not before its worn out. having said that seeing it taken apart is worthwhile, hey it's your time and money. it's not what I'd recommend. if it didn't run, had low cranking compression, low oil pressure, then I'd rebuild it.
@tunnelportterror this engine came straight from a junk yard. It was in no way ready to run. Trusting the internal condition of this engine on nothing more than blind faith and ignoring previous experience with engines from this place would not only be a gigantic waste of time but of money also. Installing an engine that's not ready to run, and more than likely needs multiple internals replaced, when I plan on rebuilding the entire thing anyway, makes zero sense. Not to mention the fact that running it in the condition it was in could have caused catastrophic damage, then I'd be out $2300. I'm glad your car that you got in running condition is still running strong. I don't have experience fixing heavy duty diesels and every manufacturer under the sun. Im not some "home driveway mechanic". I do have 12 years experience with only Mercedes-Benz. I'm still working there and I am Master Certified. So I have factory Mercedes-Benz parts that I use. I have factory Mercedes-Benz support with information and work instructions. I have the benefit of having help of technicians that have more experience with just Mercedes-Benz than your entire career. I don't know how you can tell me this engine would have run fine when you have not laid one eye on it in person. It had blocked coolant passages and would have overheated in no time, probably warping the block or heads. There were plastic chunks in the oil pan from the timing chain guides. The upper timing chain guide was destroyed. The oil smelled saturated with old fuel. The harness has deteriorated beyond use. Etc. Etc. Like you said, it's my time and money. I decided to use both wisely and rebuild it before it's already installed and would need to be taken out again, or before the engine overheated and destroyed itself.
@gnrtx-3712 that's what I'm hoping. I already have a fan that I want to use with the M119 right now. Kind of as a mock up for when the M120 goes in. I can already tell though that it will take up too much space for the M120 to fit so I'll have to find a lower profile one.
@Rich Thomas Hopefully this engine is ok internally. I'm guessing with how far I'm going to take it apart, it will be about $6-8k in parts when I'm done.
@@FriendlyMBTech I’d love to see it happen. It would have to be a labor of love, it still makes more economic sense to just fit an LS with off the shelf go fast bits if you just wanted more power. A v12 MB w124 would have more cool factor though.
3 when cold is normal. 0 at idle is not. Even in summer time when it's more than 100 degrees outside and the engine temp is closer to 100, the oil pressure should at least be between 1 and 2. Just off idle the oil pressure should be at 3 again. What kind of oil are you using and what weight? I have used weights from 5W-30 to 20W-50 just to see if I noticed a difference and they were all very similar. It's possible to have internal oil leaks that cause oil pressure issues.
@mobile games hacks 10W-60 is pretty heavy. How many miles are on the engine? There are many things that can cause low oil pressure. Excessive wear can cause it if bearing clearances are too large. An oil pump on it's way out can also. If the timing guides are coming apart, the chunks will clog the oil pickup screen amd cause oil starvation. A worn oil pump can cause it also. Can't rule out a faulty oil pressure sensor also.
@@FriendlyMBTech 1 week ago i opened the lower oil pan i found a small red plastic i drove 3 days the oil pressure would be at 1 when idle now its on 0
The M120 is a cool engine. I know you are still in the learning process as we all are and no dig for you buying a cool engine in search of a body. I have learned from my struggles if you want to find a engine for a powertrain swap buy a clapped out S600. They are cheap enough and then you have a rolling test bed to sort what you will be pulling and have all the bits needed. Especially given a lot of critical parts are NLA. Looking at that engine you need a lot and will still need a transmission to back it. Maybe a later 722.6 from a 97 and newer. My .02
Buying a roached out 600 is something I plan on doing. I bought this engine because it "only has 59k miles" on it and the place gives a 5 year warranty. The engine is a '92 so I'm (probably incorrectly) assuming it will fit my '92 transmission. My thought process is the 400SE in '92 was also available in 600SE(L) form so the transmissions should be very similar if not the same. I do concur that buying a whole roached car will be easier and cheaper than sourcing each part individually.
I have just joined your channel. Very informative. Never thought I would see someone that has a passion for the M119 & M120 as I do. Beautiful engines. I have one of each for projects. Can't wait to get them running.
Thank you.
Thank you! And you are very welcome!
I’m looking forward to watching this rebuild. I was with you the whole time on the M119.
Thank you! I'll try to not disappoint.
Agreed! I just picked up a 400E a coupla months ago and the vids were very inspirational. Not going to tear the engine down but had to unbodge the intake hoses and will need to get the ETA rebuilt and probably do the disto and wires. Runs badly now won’t idle but I think that’s the ETA
@@richbenzer5926 good luck with your repairs! Thank you for watching.
Very talented mechanic doing great things 👏
Thank you!
Greetings and Welcome Back Brother...This Engine Is Master Peice and This Is a Massive Project... Am Looking Forward For More Knowledge About The Engine... All The Best 👍🏾
Thank you sir!
you sir are an idol. this is amazing i cant wait
Thank you! I hope I don't let you down.
Glad to have you back !!! Yip sounds like a couple business's I know... Looking foward to be with you on your new project. Always the best knowledge.
Check out the Dutch guy’s rebuild of a M120 then stuffing it in a 201. Lot of good details on the engine rebuild. Took a lot of chassis and engine ancillary bits modifications but the car was insane. He used stand-alone ECU and transmission controller.
I've seen that one. That's JMSpeedshop. We follow eachother lol.
Hopefully you do a m104 as well soon! Your work seems thorough and informative ! You deserve more subs!
Thank you! If I had an M104 to work on, then I could. They're very similar to the M120. An M120 is basically two M104s.
I have a running 1994 S600 M120. If your engine ran, it was a mistake taking it apart.
I'm sorry I missed this comment. I don't know if this engine ran. If it did, it wasn't very well. A pulley was bent, and the timing chain guides were on their last leg. The main reason I bought an M120 was to take it apart and rebuild it for my channel.
@@FriendlyMBTech I see...I've been mechanic 40 years....first hand experience, road to hell is paved with good intentions. the chain guides and pulley are superfluous, could have been changed without total disassembly. there's many "rebuilt" engines out there worse off than before being taken apart, and parts are hard to find, expensive. so is competent machine shops. its better to only replace what's broken or worn out on something as complex as an M120. but hindsight is always 20/20. at this point good luck, strive to use all FACTORY MB parts, not Chinese repops
@tunnelportterror I'm a Master Certified Mercedes-Benz Technician. I know how expensive this endeavor is. I only buy parts from our parts department unless the part is no longer available. The main point of my channel is to help people who might otherwise be apprehensive to attempt repairs on their own engine. As a mechanic of 40 years, you should know more than anyone how much of a bad idea it would be to buy an engine from a junk yard without looking inside of it before installation. Good thing I did, too, since I found blocked coolant passages between the block and the head.
@@FriendlyMBTech do a cranking compression and oil pressure check. run it first. most M120 motors still run. I got mine with 108k and have been beating balls off it 4 years bouncing off rev limiter. 135mph. what's this "if"? I build and repair ALL MAKES engines, have Degree in Automotive Technology. My first complete rebuild from bare block was 1984. How long have you been doing this? I worked in over road tractor trailer rebuild shop, there were 3 tractors inside, and 5 outside every day. in chassis motor rebuilds. Mack, International, Peterbilt, GMC, Cummins, Caterpillar, etc. they'd take back a finished one, drop another one off. trucking companies. you're rebuilding an engine that would have run fine anyway. and I'll stand on that statement. no home driveway mechanic should attempt rebuilding that v12. those cars have other much severe problems, such as biodegradable wiring harnesses that fall apart. I had to rewire mine to both MAFs from the coffin box. the engine, trans, rear on those cars v12 is bulletproof. fix it when it needs it, not before its worn out. having said that seeing it taken apart is worthwhile, hey it's your time and money. it's not what I'd recommend. if it didn't run, had low cranking compression, low oil pressure, then I'd rebuild it.
@tunnelportterror this engine came straight from a junk yard. It was in no way ready to run. Trusting the internal condition of this engine on nothing more than blind faith and ignoring previous experience with engines from this place would not only be a gigantic waste of time but of money also. Installing an engine that's not ready to run, and more than likely needs multiple internals replaced, when I plan on rebuilding the entire thing anyway, makes zero sense. Not to mention the fact that running it in the condition it was in could have caused catastrophic damage, then I'd be out $2300.
I'm glad your car that you got in running condition is still running strong. I don't have experience fixing heavy duty diesels and every manufacturer under the sun. Im not some "home driveway mechanic". I do have 12 years experience with only Mercedes-Benz. I'm still working there and I am Master Certified. So I have factory Mercedes-Benz parts that I use. I have factory Mercedes-Benz support with information and work instructions. I have the benefit of having help of technicians that have more experience with just Mercedes-Benz than your entire career.
I don't know how you can tell me this engine would have run fine when you have not laid one eye on it in person. It had blocked coolant passages and would have overheated in no time, probably warping the block or heads. There were plastic chunks in the oil pan from the timing chain guides. The upper timing chain guide was destroyed. The oil smelled saturated with old fuel. The harness has deteriorated beyond use. Etc. Etc. Like you said, it's my time and money. I decided to use both wisely and rebuild it before it's already installed and would need to be taken out again, or before the engine overheated and destroyed itself.
YEEEEEEEES!
Wheres the flex fan in this engine?
The engine didn't come with a fan, although I do plan on swapping to an electric fan.
@@FriendlyMBTech oh I've heard that e fan is more efficient
@gnrtx-3712 that's what I'm hoping. I already have a fan that I want to use with the M119 right now. Kind of as a mock up for when the M120 goes in. I can already tell though that it will take up too much space for the M120 to fit so I'll have to find a lower profile one.
you gonna fit this to the 124 when done ?
That was my idea. I don't know if it will actually happen though. I still need to do some research on it.
I’m in the middle of renewing my M120 SL600. Sitting on a $1k parts order…
@Rich Thomas Hopefully this engine is ok internally. I'm guessing with how far I'm going to take it apart, it will be about $6-8k in parts when I'm done.
@@FriendlyMBTech I’d love to see it happen. It would have to be a labor of love, it still makes more economic sense to just fit an LS with off the shelf go fast bits if you just wanted more power. A v12 MB w124 would have more cool factor though.
@MMWA that is what I'm glong for. Plus I'd like to keep it all MB. My idea after that is to take the M119 and stuff it in a 190E.
Hello i have a question i have a 500e when the oil is cold the oil pressure is on 3 when it warms up it goes to 0 at idle is it normal
3 when cold is normal. 0 at idle is not. Even in summer time when it's more than 100 degrees outside and the engine temp is closer to 100, the oil pressure should at least be between 1 and 2. Just off idle the oil pressure should be at 3 again. What kind of oil are you using and what weight? I have used weights from 5W-30 to 20W-50 just to see if I noticed a difference and they were all very similar. It's possible to have internal oil leaks that cause oil pressure issues.
@@FriendlyMBTech i use 10w60 liqui moly
@mobile games hacks 10W-60 is pretty heavy. How many miles are on the engine? There are many things that can cause low oil pressure. Excessive wear can cause it if bearing clearances are too large. An oil pump on it's way out can also. If the timing guides are coming apart, the chunks will clog the oil pickup screen amd cause oil starvation. A worn oil pump can cause it also. Can't rule out a faulty oil pressure sensor also.
@@FriendlyMBTech 250000km im gonna try first the oil pressure sensor
@@FriendlyMBTech 1 week ago i opened the lower oil pan i found a small red plastic i drove 3 days the oil pressure would be at 1 when idle now its on 0
just got a M120 with 91xxx. Im hoping itll fit into my C3 vette engine bay. WHO WANTS TO HELP? SEMA trophies anyone?
Where are you located? I'm always looking for a reason to go to Vegas.
Nowhere near, St Louis area