To anyone that plans to run 1.6 ratio roller rockers drill out the push rod holes so there's extra clearance for them and also get the heads machined for guide plates. Standard roller rockers are cheaper than trying to get good self centering roller rockers!!
I'm inclined to think it would be the very rare case that a guy would need the lift beyond .550", and here's my thinking as a fan of your channel, and I believe we think alike most of the time. Other than a lab experiment, or racing with a rule regarding what a guy can run, it's hard to make the case for lift beyond 550 thou. If a guy wants more than a 383 can deliver with 550 lift, ur goin north of 500 horse to enough of an extent that one should be looking for a big block option. Or boost. In your case it's for a specific purpose related to testing, and of course that's pretty exceptional, few of us are content creators. When else might a guy want to go beyond 550 thousandths?
You are correct, most of the time I dont part .550 lift And actually this cam is no different. I will explain in more detail in another video about that cam/engine but the cam is actually a .550 lift cam but I want to do some testing and swap in 1.6 roller rockers that where the .580 comes in.
@@cuttersperformance as an old guy, I've seen the availability of things go from plenty to not in what seems like a hot minute. Vortec heads, in short order will just vanish. For that reason, I bought extra used engines as "provisions". I plan to build one with a 383 rotating assembly, keeping budget in mind. Would that fit in with your general "bang for the buck" theme? Mild cam, stroker crank, beehive springs, new bearings and seals, new rings, ball hone, new gaskets and maybe arp fasteners. I'm working backwards from a 3,000 buck budget, so there's elbow room for smart choices on parts. BTW, goes into a Tahoe from 97, she's a keeper. Not shooting for rpm's, midrange torque is the king...area under the curve below 5,000. I think it's doable. Will advise.
@@gregtheegg3576 I run a Comp XFI hydraulic roller with 202°/212° duration@ .050" with .550"/.546" in/ex with the called for 1.6:1 rockers on a 113 LSA. This cam runs great in front of a 700R4 with a 3.07:1 rear gear. Pulls like a freight train in first gear and doesn't lose a beat from the huge 1 - 2 shift drop. It weighs 4,600 lbs with me in it and does high 1.8s 60 ft times. It does 13.0s in the QM @ 101 mph. All that and still eeks out 26/20 highway/city mpg. I would be in the high 12s with the proper valve springs. What I would do different is instead of the 9.7:1 compression it has I would shoot for around 10.5:1 and would set it up for 1.7:1 rockers and of course install the proper valve springs.(with aluminum heads, with cast iron what is there is good enough) For your Tahoe with the bigger tires you will want around a 3.23 to 3.73 for similar results.(my tire size is 28" tall)😎👍
To literally quote Eric w. I have never seen a small block Chevrolet not make more power with more lift, power will always go up with more lift, if the Valve events are right.
I`ve found if you increase valve OAL you should end up changing the pushrod length to keep the rocker geometry from side loading the stem (from scrubbing across the tip of the stem) and of course a shorter guide will wear more than a longer one. For what it`s worth.
Pat, did you see Charles Servedio cylinder head porting and flow bench on here did? He took a 193 door stop sbc head and made it flow just over 300 CFM!😯 Just under 300 by .600" lift too!😯 Yeah, those heads do have potential, who would of thunk it.🤷. Can't wait to see if you can duplicate his efforts. He also did a quick factory valve port job with one of the ports for us guys following along. Just messing around IIRC he got around 250 intake CFM flow and around 180 ex. flow with 2 hours of port work. Who needs to buy Vortec heads if you can grind a set of 193 swirl port heads. Heck who needs aftermarket heads uf you have the ability to copy what he did? Also, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and yours.😎👍
I’m going to be running the summit 8802 cam (525/520 lift) with beehive springs, .030 offset keepers and new retainers, will I need to change from the 1.5 arms?? What do you recommend for a cheap replacement? It’s a machine free build
How did you get everything to work with that cam! I just bought the same cam for a carb setup in my Jeep. I bought some 1.5 aluminum self aligning full roller rockers, and the rocker centering guides hit the retainer and the locks before even touching the intake valve tip with the +.030 locks….. how did you make it all work! Please share your build plan and how much your liking that cam now that it’s running! If you’d rather email me it’s fbpd227@yahoo.com Thanks in advance!!! Dave
Hey buddy, great video...had a question on a flat tappet cam. What brand are you going with if you ordered one right now? I know you like your rollers but sometimes that's not in the budget and i know you've had good luck with them.
Actually I have videos coming this week about a budget build with a flat tappet that was dynoed on Friday. It made tons of power! I used a Summit 4/7 swap cam and Howard's lifters (Both made in the USA)
For what it's worth, unfortunately for some weird reason alot of the flat tappet cams even the high-end name brand ones are flattening lobes very quickly. If you watch alot of engine builders or diy'rs on yt they are all having issues. Conversely, the hydraulic roller stuff is fine, weird I know. Anyway yes it is more money to go hydraulic roller but they do make better power and last much, much longer.
@conservativecrusader80 i agree most builds I do are roller but alot of guys still love flat tappet cams but its definitely a risk going that way these days
Hey, I have a question on what you would recommend on setting up my heads. I have watched this video and the other video about how much lift a vortec can make but I haven’t completely come to my answer yet. I am setting up a 355 with 9.7:1 CR. I have my heads at the machine shop right now getting worked over but I’m going to be running a comp 292xfi hr-13. I am getting 2.02/1.6 SS valves installed, bowls cut, chambers unshrouded. I was going to run 1.6 full roller rockers and clearance the push rod holes. Is it required to cut down the guide to run .600 lift. The lift of that cam with 1.6 rockers is .580/.579”. The valves have standard sbc tip length
Good video but I have a question for ya. I'm working on a 97 GMC c5100 5.7 vortex with 906 heads. My question is can I get away with just torquing them down or do I have to torque to yield them?
The head bolts are not TTY. Look up the torque pattern (from inside out) 25 ftlbs, 45 ftlbs, then 65 ftlbs. Do three passes at 65 ftlbs and dont forget thread sealant
I did have a UA-cam short with a sneak peak of the Dingle ball 355 with the a summit 4/7 swap cam, but I accidentally had the wrong part# on the video so I took it down. The engine was on the dyno yesterday and did very well. Videos are coming soon!
Is a melonized gear needed when only running a flat tappet cam, comp cams said I needed it for all their camshafts? I’m getting mixed information from summit.
Melonized gear is really only needed on a billet (Roller) cam, its is basically just a surface (nitrating) finshed. They can be used on a cast cam aswell. A regular cast gear or melonized gear works on just about every flat tappet cam
I put them on every non-stock engine I build, they work on everything especially on high-pressure high volume oil pumps ( which in my opinion are over used).
Haven’t followed this channel in a while, but was bummed to find out the piss cutter name has since been abandoned and now it’s just “Cutter’s Performance?” Weak.
Yeah, I kept getting road blocked and flagged because apparently the word "piss" is an issue. As the channel got larger, it seemed to become more of an issue, even trying to get merch made. So at 20k it was changed. It was never meant to be offensive, just an ole sang some might know. Now, hopefully, the OG subscribers, who didn't mind the name, continue to stick around for some more dyno/engine fun
To anyone that plans to run 1.6 ratio roller rockers drill out the push rod holes so there's extra clearance for them and also get the heads machined for guide plates. Standard roller rockers are cheaper than trying to get good self centering roller rockers!!
I'm inclined to think it would be the very rare case that a guy would need the lift beyond .550", and here's my thinking as a fan of your channel, and I believe we think alike most of the time. Other than a lab experiment, or racing with a rule regarding what a guy can run, it's hard to make the case for lift beyond 550 thou. If a guy wants more than a 383 can deliver with 550 lift, ur goin north of 500 horse to enough of an extent that one should be looking for a big block option. Or boost. In your case it's for a specific purpose related to testing, and of course that's pretty exceptional, few of us are content creators. When else might a guy want to go beyond 550 thousandths?
You are correct, most of the time I dont part .550 lift And actually this cam is no different. I will explain in more detail in another video about that cam/engine but the cam is actually a .550 lift cam but I want to do some testing and swap in 1.6 roller rockers that where the .580 comes in.
@@cuttersperformance as an old guy, I've seen the availability of things go from plenty to not in what seems like a hot minute. Vortec heads, in short order will just vanish. For that reason, I bought extra used engines as "provisions". I plan to build one with a 383 rotating assembly, keeping budget in mind. Would that fit in with your general "bang for the buck" theme? Mild cam, stroker crank, beehive springs, new bearings and seals, new rings, ball hone, new gaskets and maybe arp fasteners. I'm working backwards from a 3,000 buck budget, so there's elbow room for smart choices on parts. BTW, goes into a Tahoe from 97, she's a keeper. Not shooting for rpm's, midrange torque is the king...area under the curve below 5,000. I think it's doable. Will advise.
@@gregtheegg3576
I run a Comp XFI hydraulic roller with 202°/212° duration@ .050" with .550"/.546" in/ex with the called for 1.6:1 rockers on a 113 LSA. This cam runs great in front of a 700R4 with a 3.07:1 rear gear. Pulls like a freight train in first gear and doesn't lose a beat from the huge 1 - 2 shift drop.
It weighs 4,600 lbs with me in it and does high 1.8s 60 ft times. It does 13.0s in the QM @ 101 mph. All that and still eeks out 26/20 highway/city mpg. I would be in the high 12s with the proper valve springs.
What I would do different is instead of the 9.7:1 compression it has I would shoot for around 10.5:1 and would set it up for 1.7:1 rockers and of course install the proper valve springs.(with aluminum heads, with cast iron what is there is good enough)
For your Tahoe with the bigger tires you will want around a 3.23 to 3.73 for similar results.(my tire size is 28" tall)😎👍
To literally quote Eric w. I have never seen a small block Chevrolet not make more power with more lift, power will always go up with more lift, if the Valve events are right.
I`ve found if you increase valve OAL you should end up changing the pushrod length to keep the rocker geometry from side loading the stem (from scrubbing across the tip of the stem) and of course a shorter guide will wear more than a longer one. For what it`s worth.
Pat, did you see Charles Servedio cylinder head porting and flow bench on here did? He took a 193 door stop sbc head and made it flow just over 300 CFM!😯 Just under 300 by .600" lift too!😯 Yeah, those heads do have potential, who would of thunk it.🤷.
Can't wait to see if you can duplicate his efforts. He also did a quick factory valve port job with one of the ports for us guys following along. Just messing around IIRC he got around 250 intake CFM flow and around 180 ex. flow with 2 hours of port work.
Who needs to buy Vortec heads if you can grind a set of 193 swirl port heads. Heck who needs aftermarket heads uf you have the ability to copy what he did?
Also, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and yours.😎👍
Yeah I saw abit of that, hopefully get some time to check it out better. Thats danm right impressive!
@@cuttersperformance
Heck yeah! It could of been you, I tried to get you to play around with those.😁👍
Always look forward to watching your videos!!
Hi Pat the new look both in the shop and the video is 💪🏻👍🏻 All the best to ya brother
Thank you!
Thanks for the tip. Merry Christmas.
Merry Christmas!
Thank you for your knowledge and videos USA 🇺🇸
Vevor got alot of stuff. Love them for the price
It sucks that people don't buy American anymore...
Great video. I purchased a set of vortec heads with guide plates are you supposed to cut the stud bosses down for guide plates thanks
Yeah they will need to be cut down the thickness of the guide plate, plus the thickness of the hex head on the new stud.
Have you done any videos on adding bigger valves on a sbc head? Like 882 heads going from 1.94 to 2.02.
Just bigger valves on vortecs
I’m going to be running the summit 8802 cam (525/520 lift) with beehive springs, .030 offset keepers and new retainers, will I need to change from the 1.5 arms?? What do you recommend for a cheap replacement? It’s a machine free build
Sent you a message on your other comment! Thanks!
How did you get everything to work with that cam! I just bought the same cam for a carb setup in my Jeep. I bought some 1.5 aluminum self aligning full roller rockers, and the rocker centering guides hit the retainer and the locks before even touching the intake valve tip with the +.030 locks….. how did you make it all work! Please share your build plan and how much your liking that cam now that it’s running!
If you’d rather email me it’s fbpd227@yahoo.com
Thanks in advance!!!
Dave
Could you please send the info on the springs retainers and locks for the vortec heads? Love the content you do for the average person thank you
ua-cam.com/video/UZosxGQyGMs/v-deo.html
Hey buddy, great video...had a question on a flat tappet cam. What brand are you going with if you ordered one right now? I know you like your rollers but sometimes that's not in the budget and i know you've had good luck with them.
Actually I have videos coming this week about a budget build with a flat tappet that was dynoed on Friday. It made tons of power! I used a Summit 4/7 swap cam and Howard's lifters (Both made in the USA)
For what it's worth, unfortunately for some weird reason alot of the flat tappet cams even the high-end name brand ones are flattening lobes very quickly. If you watch alot of engine builders or diy'rs on yt they are all having issues. Conversely, the hydraulic roller stuff is fine, weird I know. Anyway yes it is more money to go hydraulic roller but they do make better power and last much, much longer.
@@cuttersperformance you're the man brother!
@conservativecrusader80 i agree most builds I do are roller but alot of guys still love flat tappet cams but its definitely a risk going that way these days
Hey, I have a question on what you would recommend on setting up my heads. I have watched this video and the other video about how much lift a vortec can make but I haven’t completely come to my answer yet. I am setting up a 355 with 9.7:1 CR. I have my heads at the machine shop right now getting worked over but I’m going to be running a comp 292xfi hr-13. I am getting 2.02/1.6 SS valves installed, bowls cut, chambers unshrouded. I was going to run 1.6 full roller rockers and clearance the push rod holes. Is it required to cut down the guide to run .600 lift. The lift of that cam with 1.6 rockers is .580/.579”. The valves have standard sbc tip length
Yeah past .550 lift, you'll want to cut down the guides and also cut down the rocker stud bosses and add guide plates
Thank you for making that clear. I’ll talk to my machinist but at this point it might be more cost effective to get a pair of afr enforcers
To me if your gonna run more than .550 lift just after market heads cus you be already reching the cfm limit of the vortec heads
The cam is actually a .550 lift cam with 1.5 rockers. I will be trying 1.6 rockers (.580 lift) to see what it's worth on the dyno
Thank for the response on my question! Good looking man!
Not sure what question you're referring too but no problem
@cuttersperformance look in the previous one's and give it a look and what you think about it
@@gavinoluna7071 on this video? I dont see any questions
I found it, sorry I dont get notifications for every comment and couldnt see it. I will check it out
@@cuttersperformance it's all good bro
I wonder what the number is on the dual quad intake is im trying to buy one
Question,does any one use beehive on solid rollers up to about .625 lift? 310 duration on sbc
I haven't used them on solids
@@cuttersperformance tha.nx bud
Good video but I have a question for ya. I'm working on a 97 GMC c5100 5.7 vortex with 906 heads. My question is can I get away with just torquing them down or do I have to torque to yield them?
The head bolts are not TTY. Look up the torque pattern (from inside out) 25 ftlbs, 45 ftlbs, then 65 ftlbs. Do three passes at 65 ftlbs and dont forget thread sealant
@@cuttersperformance Thanks I really do appreciate the help 😁👍
Didn't you do a video on a summit 4/7 swap cam?
I did have a UA-cam short with a sneak peak of the Dingle ball 355 with the a summit 4/7 swap cam, but I accidentally had the wrong part# on the video so I took it down. The engine was on the dyno yesterday and did very well. Videos are coming soon!
@cuttersperformance I was thinking it was yours, sounded good. I'll be looking forward to the video. Thanks
Would I have to do anything for 488 lift or will everything clear
Is a melonized gear needed when only running a flat tappet cam, comp cams said I needed it for all their camshafts? I’m getting mixed information from summit.
Melonized gear is really only needed on a billet (Roller) cam, its is basically just a surface (nitrating) finshed. They can be used on a cast cam aswell. A regular cast gear or melonized gear works on just about every flat tappet cam
I put them on every non-stock engine I build, they work on everything especially on high-pressure high volume oil pumps ( which in my opinion are over used).
Pat, whats your opinion of Amazon aftermarket aluminum vortec intakes??
Could you post a link? Not sure what one you are referring to
@cuttersperformance won't let me post Amazon link but it's a aluminum vortec intake for aboot $125 - $130 USD.
Does it look like this one? ua-cam.com/video/UdxBbcD7uQI/v-deo.html
Haven’t followed this channel in a while, but was bummed to find out the piss cutter name has since been abandoned and now it’s just “Cutter’s Performance?” Weak.
Probably related to his videos being flagged by YT because of the channel name.
I'm not here for the name anyway, but for the content.
Yeah, I kept getting road blocked and flagged because apparently the word "piss" is an issue. As the channel got larger, it seemed to become more of an issue, even trying to get merch made. So at 20k it was changed. It was never meant to be offensive, just an ole sang some might know. Now, hopefully, the OG subscribers, who didn't mind the name, continue to stick around for some more dyno/engine fun
Exactly, appreciate that alot
Nice cheap rocker trick