I've never been this impressed watching a reloading video. Thank you very much for the time you took to make this, and sharing with us your tools and process.
@@williambrown8683 I absolutely did! I currently reload 9mm, .223, and .308 on a Dillion 1100. None of my reloading is precision given the calibers. However, I plan to expand to PRS type shooting and with that I’m going towards a 300 PRC setup. I’ve watched a lot of videos on reloading PRS type calibers, but none have been as meticulously with their methods as well as their data logging/tracking as you, and I found it quite inspiring. Thank you again!
Good luck with your new project. You don,t have to do everything I do to come up with a great load. I enjoy the reloading as much as the shooting. Glad you found something you can use.
This is by far the best reloading video on UA-cam the attention to detail is amazing. I would love to see a video of you going over your equipment that you use and where others might go to buy the same gear that you use. Also looking at how you document your data and a place someone could go to get the same logs that you use. It just seems you have this down pat and we could all strive to get to your level
Thank you for the great comment. If you hit the drop down box , a list of all the equipment is there. Everything on that list can be found by doing a google search. I have changed a couple of things though. I now am useing a Whidden sizeing die with a Short Actions Customs neck bushing and a Giraud case trimmer. I also have had better luck with H1000 powder . I should also say that I am now loading for a custom bilt 300 PRC rifle. About my logs, I created tht log sheet on Google docs and it is saved there. If you like, send me an email address and I will send you a copy. Thank You
After thirty years of handloading, I know I don't give as much meticulous oversight to each step of the process, as I'm seeing here. Unlike some of my buddies, I'm not a competitive shooter, or a confessed range rat. Nor am I a professional guide/hunter, who depends on a thriving livelihood with each pull of the trigger. I simply enjoy developing handloads for my collection of rifles and handguns, going into the field with confidence in my equipment, and taking game whenever the opportunity presents itself. Which usually happens most of the time. Having said that, I thoroughly appreciate your attention to detail as you assemble your cartridges. While I have enjoyed better than acceptable sub MOA accuracy with practically all of my rifles and their preferred handloads, there's always room for improvement; especially with my pistols and revolvers. Awaiting delivery of a Howa 1500, in 300 PRC that I will be working up loads for, and taking on a Wyoming elk hunt this fall. Seeing you go through what someone like me might refer to as "painstaking" detail, I now feel a real need to be a bit more attentive to the little things along the way. Things that I know I've neglected in my pursuit of the "perfect" handloads, all these years. Thanks for sharing your serious approach to shooting and handloading. We can all learn something new. Or, just revisit the basics from time to time, for better outcomes.
Great comment! I am a lot like you. I don't shoot competition anymore , I just enjoy hitting the target at some distance. Thank you and I hope you found something you can use!
Mr. Brown, I am a new reloader, and relatively young compared to some of the more experienced enthusiasts. I can confidently say that I have ever seen this level of attention to detail before. Initially I found it repulsive, similar to the reaction one may have to an individual afflicted with obessive compulsive handwashing tendencies. However while typing this reply my opinion changed to admiration. Especially seeing the meticulous log books. I hope to one day achieve this level of thoroughness. As my Grandfather said, if you are going to do something, do it right. And right you most certainly are. Well done!
This is amazing! Your attention to detail for each round(like it should be) is incredible! It’s very interesting how the process works. Hope you continue to make videos and keep sharing them! Very cool!
@@Teolulz i USE a nylon brosh to clean the inside of the case necks. I use a foam tipped "q tip" to apply the lube on the inside of the necks. My zero is set at 100 meters and from that I get the .50 MOA.;
@@williambrown8683 hi again! I have done everything you did in this video with the exception of neck turning and my SD is still averaging 9 FPS. did you notice any improvement in ES/SD after neck turning? wondering what am I missing.
I’m very impressed with your attention to detail. I have been handloading for 30 some years and still enjoy the process. I’ve watched several videos regarding loading cartridges. I’m confident your process is unmatched. Thanks for sharing
To each their own. I have handloaded for over thirty years. All of my handloaded cartridges perform in my rifles and handguns, using a process that delivers very effective cartridges, without the meticulous details that some handloaders employ. Not sure I would enjoy the hobby as much if it actually required all that I see here.
Thanks for watching.......I hope this short video has something you can use. One thing.....you do not have to do everything I do to get a great finished product. Thanks again.
Wow, this is the first video that I ever read all of the comments on. I wish it was more because this is a great start! I look forward to more videos. Can you do a Zoom call just to answer questions one day. I know I would join.
Kevin, first, thanks for watching the video. I have not given Zoom calls any thought. I really hope you found things is the video you can use. I have been reloading for over 20 years and still try to learn something new every day. I am more than happy to answer questions you may have.
RELOADER 26 is great powder, I just couldn't get any for a while, I like H1000 also. Slow burning powders are still a little hard to find. Thanks for watching the video!
WOW, I "suffer" some would say from OCD... well what you doing here is pure art... maybe one day I can have a setup compatible to yours and have this attention to detail.
Thanks for the comments. I enjoy the reloading process just as much as the shooting. If I have a problem hitting the target, I want it to be either me or the rifle, not the ammo..
So many factors involved! I usually start at .020 off the lands. I load a box of 50 rounds. Each box has 10 rows with 5 rounds in each row. I label them 1 through 10. I load 5 at .020 off the lands and then shorten them .003 in each row till the box is complete. Shoot the box and find which row has the best results. There is a little more involved, but this gives you a little idea in the process the find the best seating depth. Thanks for watching!
Re watched this,.... I have the same RCBS brass prep station... I have taken to NOT using the power chamfer/deburr stations... it removes too much brass in my opinion, leading to a knife edge. What I do to inside chamfer, is to hand use a VLD reamer BACKWARDS only. I rotate the case about 5X, with gentle pressure...same with outside deburr, but the tool has straight edges so there is no difference as to what it does when turned in either direction. I also neo lube, but sometimes also do the part of the bullet that goes inside the neck. I have yet to test if my groups are better coating the bullet too, or now that I have Garmin, if the ES is bette.r
I have switched to the Giraud Power casn trimmer. As it trims the cash it also does the chamfer both inside and out. It works great. I still use the RCBS prep machine for smoe actions, ES with the Garmin is about the same. Much saller than the LabRadar so less stuff to lug to the range.. Mounted mine in the front rest. Thanks for the comment and I hope you found something you could use. Thank You
Great work. Do you have a video, and if not can you make a video, on how to put together log books? Things like information that should be recorded, and how to organize that info. Thanks again!
Kev, thanks for watching! I have not posted a video on record keeping yet. Here is a little info that can give you a head start. I first purchase a 3 ring binder for each rifle that i shoot. Page one is the info page where I list information that I use most often. Things like distance to rifling for each different bullet I wish to shoot in the barrel. The scope height above the centerline of the bore and centerline of the scope, and the number of rounds fired through the barrel. The next pages would be the information sheet for each box of bullets I build. After I have shot the box of bullets, I place the target in the binder right behind the load sheet. This lets me refer back to the target to see how good, or bad, the load is. I will try to post a video soon .Thank You!
Thank you for the comment. I hope this little video helps you to get better results. The little details are what make the difference. The goal is to make each round exactly alike in every way. Again thank you!
I very much enjoyed this video. I will never become that involved with my reloading but I sure appreciate the effort and absolute precision that you employ in your reloading. You must have some type of engineering background. Kudos to you.
I hope you found something you can use? You don't have to everything I do go get great results. I enjoy the loading process as much as the shooting! Thank you for taking the time to watch.
I believe that a press with a pressure gage would be able to determine if or not concentricity correction has effected neck tension when using a bullet pull die. If that makes any sense.
You never really said what load combination gives you the best results. I shoot extreme long distances a mile plus and have just been using the factory match 225 edl bullet from hornady. I know your combination would be significantly better just trying to weigh out if I want to make the investment again and start reloading.
First, thanks for watching and the comment. For the last 10 months or so, I have been loading for a different rifle. Custom built with a 30 inch barrel on a MTD ACC Chassie. So far the load this rifle seems to like best is Berger 220 LRT seated .020 off the lands with 78.5 grains of H1000, This combo leaves the barrel at almost 2900 fps. I like to try different combinations all the time.. I hope you found something you can use in the video.
Thank you for sharing your process. Your attention to detail is astonishing and very much appreciated. Love the clean and organised record keeping as well. Hats off to you. Keep the videos coming. I’m glued.
When i first got into reloading, my friend told me that i shouldn't think of it as a chore just so i can go shoot, but instead think of it as a hobby because you're literally building something from the ground up that takes very meticulous attention and care. Love your work here and you've inspired me to improve my setup!! What is the machine you're using to seat the bullets??
First, thank you for taking the time to watch the video. The machine I use for seating is from Amp Press (shop.ampannealing.com/product/261/amp-press/) it is easy to use and set up. The idea is to get all of the rounds to look exactly alike of the graph. All my equipment is listed above if you hit the "more" in my introduction paragraph. I sincerly hope you can find something you can use!
I hope to someday be up to your standards. I never thought I could learn so much in 1 video. Not that I am doing it wrong just doing it better. thank you for sharing
Thank you for the very nice comment. I make it a habit to try to learn something every day and not just about reloading. I will be 74 on my next birthday and keeping an interest in things technical keeps the mind sharp. Thank you again.
Excellent video, you most defiantly keep a clean loading bench. About your use of the loaded cartridge concentricity gauge, I would point out the two steel rod points that hold the case centered to the bullet point is the real problem with that type of tool. The tool that is needed these days would hold a loaded cartridge the same as a Brown Precision from the 1960's, as it holds the cartridge rim rearward edge where they are beveled at a 45-degree angle. These concentricity gauges can be found on Gun Broker for sale at $150.Dollars still. If a rifle barrels chamber is slightly off center this gauge will find that point in the fired case, the same can be said if the resizing die is slightly off center as its set up on the reloading press you can notice the same out of alignment. Cartridge case thicknesses that are measured at the neck also has that same condition all the way down its length. Too bad someone doesn't make a concentricity gauge for measuring runout on bullets, the Brown Precision tool can do that for .338 or larger diameter bullets and that's how I separate bullets for my loading technique on 338 LPM cartridges.
Hello. You are using your Dillon for 300 PRC. I have a Dillon 550c and cannot find the conversion kit for 300 PRC. Please share how you are accomplishing this. Thank you on advance. Likes and subscribed.
First, thanks for viewing to video. The shell plate you will need is number "B". If you load 6.5 PRC it uses the same shell plate. You will also need # 4 brass pins. There is no comversion kit that I know of. Dillon will be happy to send you what you need. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching......It is a pretty long list of equipment. All the equipment is listed under the video, Almost everything can be found online. Midway USA, Brownells, Annealing Made Perfect are all available just by making a google search. If you have trouble finding something I use, contact me again and I will post the web address for you. Thank You
I'd be very curious to see the sensitivity of the seating pressure to changes in the reloading process, with the sort of record keeping system you maintain I would be surprised if you couldn't at the very least infer that data with reasonable confidence.
At this time I am doing some testing with more neck tension. My 300 PRC brass from Lapua is neck turned on the IDOD to .0125. I have started using a lube fluid while neck turing and am getting a slightly better finish on the necks. I have also started useing a smaller SAC neck bushing {.321} with a diferent mandrel. My goal is to achieve a neck tension of .004. I am seeing more pressure while seating the bullets as is to be expected. I have only shot 5 rounds from this box of 50 and need more trigger time to verify my changes. Thank you for comment.
Two questions…,.(1) when you make runout corrections of your loaded rounds, is there any method used to determine how much impact that has made on the neck tension of that round? I believe there are some adverse effect on the neck tension when corrections are made but not sure by how much. (2) have you tested corrected rounds vs those that do not have or have minimal runout that didn’t require corrections?
In all honesty , I can't tell any difference . I have been doing this for a long time and the true test is the group size . When the round comes off the seating process they are usually no more that .0015 off center. It takes very light taps to bring them to within .0005 from center line. I use very good dies and bushings. I am currently ising a Widden body die with a SAC bushing and a mandrel. The L. E. Wilson seating die is the same. Thank you for your comment and I hope you found something you can use.
@@williambrown8683thanks for the reply… have you compared groups between two batch having runout of 0.003” and .0005”? And if there is a considerable difference can you conclude that was due to concentricity or seating depth. In this video, you didn’t show that you’ve checked for seating consistency. I use almost the same components except for the automatic seater. Le Wilson and Whidddn are awesome but I find that even with very close seating force the loaded round sometimes have seating depth difference of +/- 0.001”.
The most runout I ever get is .002 before I try to make them on center, so no I have not compared them. I think seating depth difference has more to do with the bullets. I try to shoot only Berger LRHT and yes I do get + or - .001 on depth. Doesn't seem to make a difference in group size. I don't get the same hole every shot, but I am very close to that. I experiment quite a bit. Right now I am playing with neck tension a lot. I have not had a chance to shoot these loads yet. Thank you again.
@@williambrown8683hmm…, I guess I must have gotten the concept wrong all this time. And yes, I agree that bullet uniformity plays part in seating depth consistency. But I also believe that neck tension has everything to do with it too. That is why I anneal my brass after after every firing, turn neck as uniformly as I could with the tool I have.. only a I/O lathe, my Christmas wish, can get it done right. And also, the consistency of the dry lube that’s actually helping when seating. For some reason I always try to get my seating depth down to max of +/- 0.0005” and remove or reload anything more than 0.0005” variance. So I must have wasted a lot of time and money with Ladder test and group test because I lack knowledge that +/- 0.001” depth won’t matter too much., lesson learned! Thanks.
Great video. You mentioned that you turned brass inside and out. The only machine I know of on the market is the IDOD. Last I checked it costs North of $1500. With my loads I haven't noticed any inside doughnut problems. I guess the inside neck turn will clean that up However, If I'm using good brass and I just use my simple cheap Hornady OD neck turner to just smooth out, maybe by only 60%. I use a bullet .002 seating mandrel to hopefully bring most of the neck inconsistencies to the outside. Please advise What do you use for your neck turning?
First, thanks for the comments. I do use the IDOD to turn both the inside and outside of the necks. I have also used, and still do once in a while, the L E Wilson inside neck reamers, Not much difference either way. You can still create excellent loads and never turn the brass at all. I try to get the most accurate loads by making them exactly the same each time. Hope you found something in the video that you can use. THANK YOU
I do use the IDOD to turn both the inside and outside of my brass. You can achieve excellent results with no neck turning at all. Just do the best you can with what you have.
(English below) Hallo William, vielen Dank für das interessante Video. Ich mache vieles so ähnlich wie Du, aber diese Art von Schmierung kannte ich bisher nicht, das werde ich auch mal ausprobieren! Dein Englisch kann ich richtig gut verstehen, ich bin jetzt Dein vierzigster Abonnent! Viele Grüße aus Deutschland, Dennis Krenz (gelernter Flugzeugmechaniker, mal so nebenbei) Hi William, thanks for the interesting video. I do a lot of things similar to what you do, but I didn't know this kind of lubrication before, I'll give this a try too! Your English I can understand pretty well, I am now your fortieth subscriber! Many greetings from Germany, Dennis Krenz (trained aircraft mechanic, by the way)
Nice setup you are running there. Top notch gear to ensure minimal deviation between rounds, down to annealing with the AMP and using a mandrel to expand the necks consistently. I understand the idea of trying to correct some of the run-out by using the concentricity gauge , but from my experience it does more damage than good as it messes with the neck tension you so carefully set up before, I use the gauge as more of a measure to see if there is any run-out in the process especially during the start. Might be an idea to group completed rounds into 2 groups, one that needed no adjustment with the gauge, and the other that needed adjustment. Would show you pretty quickly if there were any adverse affects. Thanks for the video.
This is awesome, very much something to strive for. How do you like your RPR, trying to decide between it or a Bergara HMR. One thing concerning me is weight. Never been hunting though, but I think my 308 would be more than suffice anyhow. What I am interested in about the RPR is that the barrel is CHF, and from my understanding the life on the barrel is extremely long, but not as accurate. What you mention towards the end gives me hope though. Any additional input would be great. Amazing attention to detail btw, this seems to set the new standard for precision reloading!!!
Thank you for taking the time to watch! My RPR has over 2600 rounds through the barrel and can still achieve 1/2 to 3/4 inch groups at 100 meters. The rifle is quite heavy and I would think it would not make much of a hunting rifle. I almost always shoot of a bench with front and rear rests. The RPS has been trouble free for as long as I have owned it. I am not sorry about its purchase. I hope you found some things you can use in the video.
If you wish you can find a video on this unit at ua-cam.com/video/_AKYoaXq2Ic/v-deo.html and if you wish to order one visit www.premieraccuracy.com/index.html. I have had this one a couple of years and am very happy with it. Thanks for the comment!
When you checked the concentricity, the sensor looked like it was way down on the brass - below the shoulder maybe. I don't see how that does any good.
The sensor does ride on the brass just below the junction of the case neck and the brass body. The nose of the bullet is centered in one end and the base of the brass in the other end. The gauge reads in .0005 inches. This setup gives a very concentric cartridge. I have checked it with a couple of different tools and it is always right on the money. My process is very accurate and I usually find no more that ,0015 before making any corrections. There is a very good video on this gauge at ua-cam.com/video/LMOx9nBBJzY/v-deo.html you can get a more detailed view of its use. Thanks for your interest and comment.
Thanks for sharing. I do have questions: do you do anything to primer pockets or deburring of flash holes? And, for those of us without deep pockets, would you rate, in your opinion, from most contributing to accuracy to least, what steps/equipment would you pick up first, and so forth. Next tell us about the inside neck turning please. Thanks, steve miller.
To answer your questions. Yes when the brass is new I do deburr the flash holes. For my primer pockets I use a primer pocket uniforming tool each time I resize my brass. The tool is from RCBS and screws onto the RCBS power brass station shown briefly in the video. My primer pocket depth seams to become more uniform the more times I reload the brass. As for your other question I would say that a quality press is first on the list followed by good dies and the best brass you can find. Also the best projectile for your purpose is very important. It doesn't take everything I do to get a accurate load. AS far as inside neck turning, I use the IDOD from fclassproducts.com as it turns both the outside and inside at the same time. My pockets aren't that deep as I started reloading over 20 years ago and acquired my tools over a very long time. I hope this little note helps you. Thank you for your comments.
@@williambrown8683 Bill, thanks much for sharing. I have the same RCBS brass prep/primer pocket uniformer set up. For me it seems that each firing moves some brass and then I remove it when I uniform the primer pocket again. I think (for me) this is leading to earlier primer pocket loosing, as by hand alone I get some wobble starting and using the cutter. I visually inspect the flash hole and if there is a burr I remove just it, otherwise I do nothing to the primer pockets. I have outside turned, and I do find that makes a difference. I have the reamers to inside turn, but have yet to do that. I think my next step will be to better measure my headspace and will check out the Wilson case trimmer setup. Load on brother.
I like the attention to detail. Would you consider doing a video working backwards to find which processes are unnecessary or even have a negative effect on accuracy? You are obviously accomplished and have the logs to show precisely how your loads are performing so you should definitely be able to detect any differences. I would appreciate that level of insight as it would save me a boat load of money but also time fiddling to see what works. Anyway, I enjoyed the video seeing your process. Thanks.
First, thank you for your interest and comment. I started doing things this way because most of the operations preformed added just a slight improvement. I have not found any negative effects in any of the operations. Annealing every reload is most important, a good resizing die is too. The best way to get good results still goes back to powder load testing, then doing a seating depth test. Using a mandrel is also most important. Besides group size, the most important aspect is standard deviation. I usually get between 6 fps and 7 fps in my testing. I chronograph each box of ammo I build. Now, I am working on a video on a day at the range using the ammo in the video. I hope this points you in the right direction.
Sir I’m very impressed with your attention to detail nice work!!!! What concentricity gauge are you using? I like the way you have the ability to adjust it.
Does this bullet seater have a crimp? I know nothing about this style? With that being asked do you crimp the .300prc at all? Do you think it’s necessary?
Thanks for the comment. NO a crimp is not needed or desireable. I have been reloading for overt 25 years and have nerer used a crimp die on any rifle cartridge.
The red piece is just a large flat base. The Black piece with the gold ring is from Forrester. It has different holes in it for different cartridges to measure the o-give. There is also a different black ring to measure case neck set back for use in resizing. I am very pleased in how the tool works. Thank you for your comment.
I shot some Saturday and was getting speeds of 2915 fps with Retumbo....There is no signs of over pressure yet. I plan to add a little more powder on the next runds.
@@williambrown8683 That's awesome. With that velocity 300 prc with those bullets literally no exageration IS as good as 338 lapua at long range. Not quite the energy but virtually identical ballistics. It beats the 338 lapua using the 250 grain berger even if shot at 3050 fps. And it is pretty much identical to 338 lapua using 300 bergers even at 1500 yards because they can only be launched at 2750. Plus you can use the magazine and don't need to single load like with 300 grain 338s. These bullets make 300 win mag and 300 prc awesome
First, Thanks for watching.......Since I neck turn my brass to about ...0125 thousands, unless your brass is this thin my codes probably would not work well for you....Each time I start another box of 50 pieces of brass, I neck turn both inside the neck and outside. Since brass varies from lot to lot and from the maker to maker. I usually shoot this new brass to fire form it, and then anneal. My codes can be anywhere from 151 to 159 on neck turned brass. I hope this little bit of info helps you.
I shoot 5 shot groups and between groups I place a "chamber chiller" in the chamber and let it run as I check my group size and current speed on the Labradar. This lets the barrel cool to about 110 F, I have a temperature strip on the barrel. I usually shoot a box of 48 to 50 rounds at a sitting. Thank you for your interest.
Premier Accuracy makes this tool and you can find it here www.premieraccuracy.com/gauges.html. I use it on every round I build. I hope you found something you can use in the video. Thanks for watching and the comment.
As a 22 y/o who just got into long range shooting and no family or friends that reload, I really wish I had a mentor like you to teach me the logistics and subtleties of reloading ammunition because you are obviously a great teacher. There is just so many questions I have that I don't even bother asking great content creator's like you usually because once they answered the question I feel like I have two more that came up. I know the powder grain scale, primer and annealer are together roughly $4,000 but In the odd chance that you see this comment I have one question. If you had an aspiring nephew who wanted to reload on his own after seeing your reloading setup, How much do you think he would need to save up for mid level reloading setup? Thanks.
You can achieve great results without going to the extreme that I do. Just pay attention to the small details. There are plenty of scales that provide great results for modest amounts of cash. A good set of calipers is important. I did not anneal for may years and achieved great results. Try to only change one thing at at time and check your results. If I had it to do over again I would probably start with a Forrester Coax press, Redding dies, and the best brass and bullets that I could find. Take your time when you reload. It took me many years to acquire the equipment and knowledge that I have. DON'T BE AFRAID TO ASK QUESTIONS! Most people in this community are happy to answer questions from a new member to the sport. Thank you for your comment.
@@ELITEMARKSMANTVI seem to achieve better results with Berger 220g Hybrid Target bullets. They are not available now or for the past few months. I also like Sierra Match King HPBT in 220 grain and I have used Hornady A-Tips in 230 grain with good results. Each rifle is different. I am in the process of having my first custom rifle built. It will probably be completed in November. Be warry of a gun smith that can do things right away. A good gun smith always has customers waiting. GOOD LUCK!
Hey guys, I am new to reloading also. Great video and great conversation. I wish that it was a much longer dialog between you two. I am online now looking for Mr. Brown suggestions.
Amp Annealing came out with an update called AZTEC which takes one piece of brass from the lot you are using and tests it till destruction. In the process it generates a code you can use for the rest of your lot. Fast, simple and correct .I hope this note helps you.
@@williambrown8683 thanks, I have so much brass from years ago I don't remember which is which lot. Do you think that it would matter if I put 1 piece in and just do them all after that. Years ago we didn't have this technology so I didn't keep real good records of what I had
@@tonydevich7937 It all depends on what you are trying to achieve? For plinking brass a flame annealer might work better. For competition you should use only brass from the same lot. Sort your old brass into caliber and manufacturer. That would be a good start. I start with a new box of brass, neck turn first, anneal and then resize to begin my process.
@@williambrown8683 I will do that from this point on. Ya the other brass is for just fun shooting of Prarie dogs and paper, ill just run them through and see what happens
I have two 300 PRC rifels.......The one I was using when I made this video was a stock Rruger Percision in 300 PRC with the barrel that came with the rifle. My other rifle is a custom build with a 29 inch barrel. Both performed quite well. Thanks for the coment.
@@markdang3379 The custom rifle uses a Bartlin barrell . My gunsmith cut the chamber a little tighter than stock because he knows I neck turn my brass. I see see slightly bettery performance.
300 PRC bullets are .308 in diameter and are usually very long compared to other 308 bullets. The weight varies from about 185 grains up to 250 grains. I hope this answers your question?
I did not know there was such a thing as re-loading porn..... This is awesome!!!!! Sir, are these your target loads for the 300 PRC?... Can you perhaps share your experience with the caliber in a future video as I'm considering purchasing a rifle chambered with it here in Australia, where it is rare to find ammo on the shelf..... Like really rare! I mean two boxes (40 rounds in the city) so I pondered if it is really as good as the hype says, and if so I will reload.. Fabulous video and thankyou for sharing.
My seating press is the Amp Press by Annealing Made Perfect. (www.ampannealing.com/amp-press/) I use the L E Wilson micrometer adjustable seating dies. Very pleased with the press. Thank You for watching the video!
You're using the bullet seater incorrectly. You should read LE wilsons instructions. Your seating pressure would be a lot more consistent if you dont tumble after annealing. Bullet concentricity does nothing for accuracy.
I notice you drop the bullet into the top of the inline Wilson die. Wilson recommends you seat the bullet on top of the case then drop the die body over the complete round for better alignment. He mentions it 2:20 into the video ua-cam.com/video/60c6PGmdVfg/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching. I have the Premier Accuracy (www.premieraccuracy.com/index.html) run out tool on every round I build. It is quick and easy. I also have the Sinclair tool and use it once in a while also. I hope this helps you. Thank You
I've never been this impressed watching a reloading video. Thank you very much for the time you took to make this, and sharing with us your tools and process.
Thanks for watching! I hope you found something you can use?
@@williambrown8683 I absolutely did! I currently reload 9mm, .223, and .308 on a Dillion 1100. None of my reloading is precision given the calibers. However, I plan to expand to PRS type shooting and with that I’m going towards a 300 PRC setup. I’ve watched a lot of videos on reloading PRS type calibers, but none have been as meticulously with their methods as well as their data logging/tracking as you, and I found it quite inspiring. Thank you again!
Good luck with your new project. You don,t have to do everything I do to come up with a great load. I enjoy the reloading as much as the shooting. Glad you found something you can use.
This is by far the best reloading video on UA-cam the attention to detail is amazing. I would love to see a video of you going over your equipment that you use and where others might go to buy the same gear that you use. Also looking at how you document your data and a place someone could go to get the same logs that you use. It just seems you have this down pat and we could all strive to get to your level
Thank you for the great comment. If you hit the drop down box , a list of all the equipment is there. Everything on that list can be found by doing a google search. I have changed a couple of things though. I now am useing a Whidden sizeing die with a Short Actions Customs neck bushing and a Giraud case trimmer. I also have had better luck with H1000 powder . I should also say that I am now loading for a custom bilt 300 PRC rifle. About my logs, I created tht log sheet on Google docs and it is saved there. If you like, send me an email address and I will send you a copy. Thank You
After thirty years of handloading, I know I don't give as much meticulous oversight to each step of the process, as I'm seeing here.
Unlike some of my buddies, I'm not a competitive shooter, or a confessed range rat. Nor am I a professional guide/hunter, who depends on a thriving livelihood with each pull of the trigger. I simply enjoy developing handloads for my collection of rifles and handguns, going into the field with confidence in my equipment, and taking game whenever the opportunity presents itself. Which usually happens most of the time.
Having said that, I thoroughly appreciate your attention to detail as you assemble your cartridges. While I have enjoyed better than acceptable sub MOA accuracy with practically all of my rifles and their preferred handloads, there's always room for improvement; especially with my pistols and revolvers.
Awaiting delivery of a Howa 1500, in 300 PRC that I will be working up loads for, and taking on a Wyoming elk hunt this fall. Seeing you go through what someone like me might refer to as "painstaking" detail, I now feel a real need to be a bit more attentive to the little things along the way. Things that I know I've neglected in my pursuit of the "perfect" handloads, all these years.
Thanks for sharing your serious approach to shooting and handloading. We can all learn something new. Or, just revisit the basics from time to time, for better outcomes.
Great comment! I am a lot like you. I don't shoot competition anymore , I just enjoy hitting the target at some distance. Thank you and I hope you found something you can use!
Mr. Brown, I am a new reloader, and relatively young compared to some of the more experienced enthusiasts. I can confidently say that I have ever seen this level of attention to detail before. Initially I found it repulsive, similar to the reaction one may have to an individual afflicted with obessive compulsive handwashing tendencies. However while typing this reply my opinion changed to admiration. Especially seeing the meticulous log books. I hope to one day achieve this level of thoroughness. As my Grandfather said, if you are going to do something, do it right. And right you most certainly are. Well done!
Thanks for the reply. You do not have to do this much to achieve great loads. I try to leave no stone unturned.
@6:50 I like the way you think lol it's always on our minds no matter the age. Good video so far.
Thanks for taking the time to watch. A lot of time goes into making a good video. I hope there is something in the video you can use~
Seating your bullets is very slick. Enjoyed watching
Thank you for watching, I hope you found something you can use.
Great to see a video with such detail. Attention to detail is where accuracy is found for sure. Thanks for sharing with us
Thanks for taking the time to watch. I hope you found something you can use!
Thank you for sharing your expertise
Thanks for watching! I hope you have found some things you can use. It is a small sport and needs more followers. Thank You
Very Professional Sir
Thanks for taking the time to watch. I hope you found something you can use.
Reply
This is amazing! Your attention to detail for each round(like it should be) is incredible! It’s very interesting how the process works. Hope you continue to make videos and keep sharing them! Very cool!
Thank you for the kind words......I have started a follow up video on my day at the range with the rounds from the last video.
Thanks for taking the time to do this video. I appreciate it.
Thanks for taking the time to watch!
Attention to detail!
Thanks for taking the time to watch. I hope you found something you can use.
I absolutely love your process and attention to detail.
Thank you for your taking the time to watch the video. I hope you found something you can use.
@@williambrown8683 thank you for taking the time to film your process. I am definitely looking forward to watching more of your videos.
That is an Amazing Process you have there! Being a former Machinist and now Reloader, you process leans towards the fine work of a Machinist!
Thanks for watching the video. I hope you found some things that you can use.
super helpful video guide sir! this is exactly what I have been looking for. you have every single piece of reloading equipments and impressive SD👌
THANKS for taking the time to watch the video! I hope you found some things you can use.
I am buying some of these lol. What is that tool you have to brush the case neck? And at what distance do you get 0.5 MOA? Thanks
@@Teolulz i USE a nylon brosh to clean the inside of the case necks. I use a foam tipped "q tip" to apply the lube on the inside of the necks. My zero is set at 100 meters and from that I get the .50 MOA.;
@@williambrown8683 hi again! I have done everything you did in this video with the exception of neck turning and my SD is still averaging 9 FPS. did you notice any improvement in ES/SD after neck turning? wondering what am I missing.
I’m very impressed with your attention to detail. I have been handloading for 30 some years and still enjoy the process. I’ve watched several videos regarding loading cartridges. I’m confident your process is unmatched. Thanks for sharing
JOHN, Thank you so much for the kind words! I hope everyone that takes the time to watch this video finds something they can use. SMALL GROUPS MATTER!
To each their own. I have handloaded for over thirty years. All of my handloaded cartridges perform in my rifles and handguns, using a process that delivers very effective cartridges, without the meticulous details that some handloaders employ. Not sure I would enjoy the hobby as much if it actually required all that I see here.
Thank you for making this video! I just ordered a 300 PRC Ruger Precision and a bunch of reloading stuff. It's super helpful to see how people do this
Thanks for watching.......I hope this short video has something you can use. One thing.....you do not have to do everything I do to get a great finished product. Thanks again.
Wow, this is the first video that I ever read all of the comments on. I wish it was more because this is a great start! I look forward to more videos. Can you do a Zoom call just to answer questions one day. I know I would join.
Kevin, first, thanks for watching the video. I have not given Zoom calls any thought. I really hope you found things is the video you can use. I have been reloading for over 20 years and still try to learn something new every day. I am more than happy to answer questions you may have.
great process, almost identicle to mine. cept Retumbo is super hard to get, reloder 26 works great, glad i stocked up on it
RELOADER 26 is great powder, I just couldn't get any for a while, I like H1000 also. Slow burning powders are still a little hard to find. Thanks for watching the video!
WOW, I "suffer" some would say from OCD... well what you doing here is pure art... maybe one day I can have a setup compatible to yours and have this attention to detail.
Thanks for the comments. I enjoy the reloading process just as much as the shooting. If I have a problem hitting the target, I want it to be either me or the rifle, not the ammo..
Great work, details pay you back
Very clean process, question for you Sr how far are you sitting off the lands ?
So many factors involved! I usually start at .020 off the lands. I load a box of 50 rounds. Each box has 10 rows with 5 rounds in each row. I label them 1 through 10. I load 5 at .020 off the lands and then shorten them .003 in each row till the box is complete. Shoot the box and find which row has the best results. There is a little more involved, but this gives you a little idea in the process the find the best seating depth. Thanks for watching!
Nice work, I hope that you will make more videos 👏👍
Thanks for watching........I will make ore videos sooner or later. I hope you found something you can use.
Re watched this,.... I have the same RCBS brass prep station... I have taken to NOT using the power chamfer/deburr stations... it removes too much brass in my opinion, leading to a knife edge. What I do to inside chamfer, is to hand use a VLD reamer BACKWARDS only. I rotate the case about 5X, with gentle pressure...same with outside deburr, but the tool has straight edges so there is no difference as to what it does when turned in either direction. I also neo lube, but sometimes also do the part of the bullet that goes inside the neck. I have yet to test if my groups are better coating the bullet too, or now that I have Garmin, if the ES is bette.r
I have switched to the Giraud Power casn trimmer. As it trims the cash it also does the chamfer both inside and out. It works great. I still use the RCBS prep machine for smoe actions, ES with the Garmin is about the same. Much saller than the LabRadar so less stuff to lug to the range.. Mounted mine in the front rest. Thanks for the comment and I hope you found something you could use. Thank You
Very impressive!!! I have the same RPR in 6.5 Creedmoor.
So do I.....it is the same process, just a smaller round. Thanks for watching!
Olympic quality, a true envy.
Thank you for taking the time to watch the video. I hope you found something you can use.
Great work. Do you have a video, and if not can you make a video, on how to put together log books? Things like information that should be recorded, and how to organize that info.
Thanks again!
Kev, thanks for watching! I have not posted a video on record keeping yet. Here is a little info that can give you a head start. I first purchase a 3 ring binder for each rifle that i shoot. Page one is the info page where I list information that I use most often. Things like distance to rifling for each different bullet I wish to shoot in the barrel. The scope height above the centerline of the bore and centerline of the scope, and the number of rounds fired through the barrel. The next pages would be the information sheet for each box of bullets I build. After I have shot the box of bullets, I place the target in the binder right behind the load sheet. This lets me refer back to the target to see how good, or bad, the load is. I will try to post a video soon .Thank You!
WOW. Just when I thought I knew a little about reloading you just added a new level I never thought about lol. Thanks sir.
Thank you for the comment. I hope this little video helps you to get better results. The little details are what make the difference. The goal is to make each round exactly alike in every way. Again thank you!
I very much enjoyed this video. I will never become that involved with my reloading but I sure appreciate the effort and absolute precision that you employ in your reloading. You must have some type of engineering background. Kudos to you.
I hope you found something you can use? You don't have to everything I do go get great results. I enjoy the loading process as much as the shooting! Thank you for taking the time to watch.
AWESOME!! I subscribed and hope to see more videos in the future
Thanks for taking the time to watch. Hope you found something you can use.
I believe that a press with a pressure gage would be able to determine if or not concentricity correction has effected neck tension when using a bullet pull die. If that makes any sense.
You never really said what load combination gives you the best results. I shoot extreme long distances a mile plus and have just been using the factory match 225 edl bullet from hornady. I know your combination would be significantly better just trying to weigh out if I want to make the investment again and start reloading.
First, thanks for watching and the comment. For the last 10 months or so, I have been loading for a different rifle. Custom built with a 30 inch barrel on a MTD ACC Chassie. So far the load this rifle seems to like best is Berger 220 LRT seated .020 off the lands with 78.5 grains of H1000, This combo leaves the barrel at almost 2900 fps. I like to try different combinations all the time.. I hope you found something you can use in the video.
Have you thought about trying EC Tuner Brake?
I have three of the EC Tuner Brakes and the do make a difference. One is on my 300 PRC RPR,
Thank you for sharing your process. Your attention to detail is astonishing and very much appreciated. Love the clean and organised record keeping as well. Hats off to you. Keep the videos coming. I’m glued.
Thank you for the comment. I like to share what I have learned over the years. More to come!
When i first got into reloading, my friend told me that i shouldn't think of it as a chore just so i can go shoot, but instead think of it as a hobby because you're literally building something from the ground up that takes very meticulous attention and care. Love your work here and you've inspired me to improve my setup!! What is the machine you're using to seat the bullets??
First, thank you for taking the time to watch the video. The machine I use for seating is from Amp Press (shop.ampannealing.com/product/261/amp-press/) it is easy to use and set up. The idea is to get all of the rounds to look exactly alike of the graph. All my equipment is listed above if you hit the "more" in my introduction paragraph. I sincerly hope you can find something you can use!
I hope to someday be up to your standards. I never thought I could learn so much in 1 video. Not that I am doing it wrong just doing it better. thank you for sharing
Thank you for the very nice comment. I make it a habit to try to learn something every day and not just about reloading. I will be 74 on my next birthday and keeping an interest in things technical keeps the mind sharp. Thank you again.
Excellent video, you most defiantly keep a clean loading bench. About your use of the loaded cartridge concentricity gauge, I would point out the two steel rod points that hold the case centered to the bullet point is the real problem with that type of tool. The tool that is needed these days would hold a loaded cartridge the same as a Brown Precision from the 1960's, as it holds the cartridge rim rearward edge where they are beveled at a 45-degree angle. These concentricity gauges can be found on Gun Broker for sale at $150.Dollars still. If a rifle barrels chamber is slightly off center this gauge will find that point in the fired case, the same can be said if the resizing die is slightly off center as its set up on the reloading press you can notice the same out of alignment. Cartridge case thicknesses that are measured at the neck also has that same condition all the way down its length. Too bad someone doesn't make a concentricity gauge for measuring runout on bullets, the Brown Precision tool can do that for .338 or larger diameter bullets and that's how I separate bullets for my loading technique on 338 LPM cartridges.
Thank you for your comment and advise.
Hello. You are using your Dillon for 300 PRC. I have a Dillon 550c and cannot find the conversion kit for 300 PRC. Please share how you are accomplishing this. Thank you on advance. Likes and subscribed.
First, thanks for viewing to video. The shell plate you will need is number "B". If you load 6.5 PRC it uses the same shell plate. You will also need # 4 brass pins. There is no comversion kit that I know of. Dillon will be happy to send you what you need. Thanks again.
Where did you purchase some of your equipment ? Your attention to detail is awesome.
Thanks for watching......It is a pretty long list of equipment. All the equipment is listed under the video, Almost everything can be found online. Midway USA, Brownells, Annealing Made Perfect are all available just by making a google search. If you have trouble finding something I use, contact me again and I will post the web address for you. Thank You
I'd be very curious to see the sensitivity of the seating pressure to changes in the reloading process, with the sort of record keeping system you maintain I would be surprised if you couldn't at the very least infer that data with reasonable confidence.
At this time I am doing some testing with more neck tension. My 300 PRC brass from Lapua is neck turned on the IDOD to .0125. I have started using a lube fluid while neck turing and am getting a slightly better finish on the necks. I have also started useing a smaller SAC neck bushing {.321} with a diferent mandrel. My goal is to achieve a neck tension of .004. I am seeing more pressure while seating the bullets as is to be expected. I have only shot 5 rounds from this box of 50 and need more trigger time to verify my changes. Thank you for comment.
Two questions…,.(1) when you make runout corrections of your loaded rounds, is there any method used to determine how much impact that has made on the neck tension of that round? I believe there are some adverse effect on the neck tension when corrections are made but not sure by how much. (2) have you tested corrected rounds vs those that do not have or have minimal runout that didn’t require corrections?
In all honesty , I can't tell any difference . I have been doing this for a long time and the true test is the group size . When the round comes off the seating process they are usually no more that .0015 off center. It takes very light taps to bring them to within .0005 from center line. I use very good dies and bushings. I am currently ising a Widden body die with a SAC bushing and a mandrel. The L. E. Wilson seating die is the same. Thank you for your comment and I hope you found something you can use.
@@williambrown8683thanks for the reply… have you compared groups between two batch having runout of 0.003” and .0005”? And if there is a considerable difference can you conclude that was due to concentricity or seating depth. In this video, you didn’t show that you’ve checked for seating consistency. I use almost the same components except for the automatic seater. Le Wilson and Whidddn are awesome but I find that even with very close seating force the loaded round sometimes have seating depth difference of +/- 0.001”.
The most runout I ever get is .002 before I try to make them on center, so no I have not compared them. I think seating depth difference has more to do with the bullets. I try to shoot only Berger LRHT and yes I do get + or - .001 on depth. Doesn't seem to make a difference in group size. I don't get the same hole every shot, but I am very close to that. I experiment quite a bit. Right now I am playing with neck tension a lot. I have not had a chance to shoot these loads yet. Thank you again.
@@williambrown8683hmm…, I guess I must have gotten the concept wrong all this time. And yes, I agree that bullet uniformity plays part in seating depth consistency. But I also believe that neck tension has everything to do with it too. That is why I anneal my brass after after every firing, turn neck as uniformly as I could with the tool I have.. only a I/O lathe, my Christmas wish, can get it done right. And also, the consistency of the dry lube that’s actually helping when seating. For some reason I always try to get my seating depth down to max of +/- 0.0005” and remove or reload anything more than 0.0005” variance. So I must have wasted a lot of time and money with Ladder test and group test because I lack knowledge that +/- 0.001” depth won’t matter too much., lesson learned! Thanks.
Great video. You mentioned that you turned brass inside and out. The only machine I know of on the market is the IDOD. Last I checked it costs North of $1500.
With my loads I haven't noticed any inside doughnut problems. I guess the inside neck turn will clean that up
However, If I'm using good brass and I just use my simple cheap Hornady OD neck turner to just smooth out, maybe by only 60%. I use a bullet .002 seating mandrel to hopefully bring most of the neck inconsistencies to the outside. Please advise
What do you use for your neck turning?
First, thanks for the comments. I do use the IDOD to turn both the inside and outside of the necks. I have also used, and still do once in a while, the L E Wilson inside neck reamers, Not much difference either way. You can still create excellent loads and never turn the brass at all. I try to get the most accurate loads by making them exactly the same each time. Hope you found something in the video that you can use. THANK YOU
I do use the IDOD to turn both the inside and outside of my brass. You can achieve excellent results with no neck turning at all. Just do the best you can with what you have.
(English below)
Hallo William, vielen Dank für das interessante Video. Ich mache vieles so ähnlich wie Du, aber diese Art von Schmierung kannte ich bisher nicht, das werde ich auch mal ausprobieren! Dein Englisch kann ich richtig gut verstehen, ich bin jetzt Dein vierzigster Abonnent! Viele Grüße aus Deutschland, Dennis Krenz (gelernter Flugzeugmechaniker, mal so nebenbei)
Hi William, thanks for the interesting video. I do a lot of things similar to what you do, but I didn't know this kind of lubrication before, I'll give this a try too! Your English I can understand pretty well, I am now your fortieth subscriber! Many greetings from Germany, Dennis Krenz (trained aircraft mechanic, by the way)
Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment. I always like to see how other people think.
What scope did you put on,i put a discovery 5x30. 56 best so far, kind of silly to spend alot on one when this one works just as good 👍
The scope I put on my custom built 300 PRC rifle is a Trijacon 10 Mile 605x50 and I am quit pleased with it.
Thank you for your comment!
Nice setup you are running there. Top notch gear to ensure minimal deviation between rounds, down to annealing with the AMP and using a mandrel to expand the necks consistently. I understand the idea of trying to correct some of the run-out by using the concentricity gauge , but from my experience it does more damage than good as it messes with the neck tension you so carefully set up before, I use the gauge as more of a measure to see if there is any run-out in the process especially during the start. Might be an idea to group completed rounds into 2 groups, one that needed no adjustment with the gauge, and the other that needed adjustment. Would show you pretty quickly if there were any adverse affects. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the comment and advise.
This is awesome, very much something to strive for. How do you like your RPR, trying to decide between it or a Bergara HMR. One thing concerning me is weight. Never been hunting though, but I think my 308 would be more than suffice anyhow. What I am interested in about the RPR is that the barrel is CHF, and from my understanding the life on the barrel is extremely long, but not as accurate. What you mention towards the end gives me hope though. Any additional input would be great.
Amazing attention to detail btw, this seems to set the new standard for precision reloading!!!
Thank you for taking the time to watch! My RPR has over 2600 rounds through the barrel and can still achieve 1/2 to 3/4 inch groups at 100 meters. The rifle is quite heavy and I would think it would not make much of a hunting rifle. I almost always shoot of a bench with front and rear rests. The RPS has been trouble free for as long as I have owned it. I am not sorry about its purchase. I hope you found some things you can use in the video.
Nice and thorough on all the steps and logs. What concentricity tool are you using?
If you wish you can find a video on this unit at ua-cam.com/video/_AKYoaXq2Ic/v-deo.html and if you wish to order one visit www.premieraccuracy.com/index.html. I have had this one a couple of years and am very happy with it. Thanks for the comment!
awesome
Thanks for the comment. I hope you found something you can use?
When you checked the concentricity, the sensor looked like it was way down on the brass - below the shoulder maybe. I don't see how that does any good.
The sensor does ride on the brass just below the junction of the case neck and the brass body. The nose of the bullet is centered in one end and the base of the brass in the other end. The gauge reads in .0005 inches. This setup gives a very concentric cartridge. I have checked it with a couple of different tools and it is always right on the money. My process is very accurate and I usually find no more that ,0015 before making any corrections. There is a very good video on this gauge at ua-cam.com/video/LMOx9nBBJzY/v-deo.html you can get a more detailed view of its use. Thanks for your interest and comment.
Thanks for sharing. I do have questions: do you do anything to primer pockets or deburring of flash holes? And, for those of us without deep pockets, would you rate, in your opinion, from most contributing to accuracy to least, what steps/equipment would you pick up first, and so forth. Next tell us about the inside neck turning please. Thanks, steve miller.
To answer your questions. Yes when the brass is new I do deburr the flash holes. For my primer pockets I use a primer pocket uniforming tool each time I resize my brass. The tool is from RCBS and screws onto the RCBS power brass station shown briefly in the video. My primer pocket depth seams to become more uniform the more times I reload the brass. As for your other question I would say that a quality press is first on the list followed by good dies and the best brass you can find. Also the best projectile for your purpose is very important. It doesn't take everything I do to get a accurate load. AS far as inside neck turning, I use the IDOD from fclassproducts.com as it turns both the outside and inside at the same time. My pockets aren't that deep as I started reloading over 20 years ago and acquired my tools over a very long time. I hope this little note helps you. Thank you for your comments.
@@williambrown8683 Bill, thanks much for sharing. I have the same RCBS brass prep/primer pocket uniformer set up. For me it seems that each firing moves some brass and then I remove it when I uniform the primer pocket again. I think (for me) this is leading to earlier primer pocket loosing, as by hand alone I get some wobble starting and using the cutter. I visually inspect the flash hole and if there is a burr I remove just it, otherwise I do nothing to the primer pockets. I have outside turned, and I do find that makes a difference. I have the reamers to inside turn, but have yet to do that. I think my next step will be to better measure my headspace and will check out the Wilson case trimmer setup. Load on brother.
@@stevemiller6044 Thanks for your comments. I hope you found something you can use in my video.
I like the attention to detail. Would you consider doing a video working backwards to find which processes are unnecessary or even have a negative effect on accuracy? You are obviously accomplished and have the logs to show precisely how your loads are performing so you should definitely be able to detect any differences. I would appreciate that level of insight as it would save me a boat load of money but also time fiddling to see what works. Anyway, I enjoyed the video seeing your process. Thanks.
First, thank you for your interest and comment. I started doing things this way because most of the operations preformed added just a slight improvement. I have not found any negative effects in any of the operations. Annealing every reload is most important, a good resizing die is too. The best way to get good results still goes back to powder load testing, then doing a seating depth test. Using a mandrel is also most important. Besides group size, the most important aspect is standard deviation. I usually get between 6 fps and 7 fps in my testing. I chronograph each box of ammo I build. Now, I am working on a video on a day at the range using the ammo in the video. I hope this points you in the right direction.
Sir I’m very impressed with your attention to detail nice work!!!! What concentricity gauge are you using? I like the way you have the ability to adjust it.
Thank you for your comments. if you wish to visit premieraccuracy.com/index.html you will find the gauge I use and like very much.
Does this bullet seater have a crimp? I know nothing about this style? With that being asked do you crimp the .300prc at all? Do you think it’s necessary?
Thanks for the comment. NO a crimp is not needed or desireable. I have been reloading for overt 25 years and have nerer used a crimp die on any rifle cartridge.
Thanks for sharing your reloading process Mr. Brown. Out of curiosity, what is that thing u have attached to ur calipers?
The red piece is just a large flat base. The Black piece with the gold ring is from Forrester. It has different holes in it for different cartridges to measure the o-give. There is also a different black ring to measure case neck set back for use in resizing. I am very pleased in how the tool works. Thank you for your comment.
Whoa dude
What velocity can you get with those 220 grainers?
I shot some Saturday and was getting speeds of 2915 fps with Retumbo....There is no signs of over pressure yet. I plan to add a little more powder on the next runds.
@@williambrown8683 That's awesome. With that velocity 300 prc with those bullets literally no exageration IS as good as 338 lapua at long range. Not quite the energy but virtually identical ballistics.
It beats the 338 lapua using the 250 grain berger even if shot at 3050 fps. And it is pretty much identical to 338 lapua using 300 bergers even at 1500 yards because they can only be launched at 2750. Plus you can use the magazine and don't need to single load like with 300 grain 338s.
These bullets make 300 win mag and 300 prc awesome
what code on your annealer? trying to not sacrifice a brass
First, Thanks for watching.......Since I neck turn my brass to about ...0125 thousands, unless your brass is this thin my codes probably would not work well for you....Each time I start another box of 50 pieces of brass, I neck turn both inside the neck and outside. Since brass varies from lot to lot and from the maker to maker. I usually shoot this new brass to fire form it, and then anneal. My codes can be anywhere from 151 to 159 on neck turned brass. I hope this little bit of info helps you.
Where do you find Retumbo powder. I’ll send you money if it’s a local place if you’ll ship to me
iI find Retumbo anywhere I can and buy as much as they will let me have. H1000 also works very well also.
2500 rounds from a 300prc seems really good, what is your shooting and cooling process to prolong the barrel life???
I shoot 5 shot groups and between groups I place a "chamber chiller" in the chamber and let it run as I check my group size and current speed on the Labradar. This lets the barrel cool to about 110 F, I have a temperature strip on the barrel. I usually shoot a box of 48 to 50 rounds at a sitting. Thank you for your interest.
What’s the name of the concentricity tool you used
Premier Accuracy makes this tool and you can find it here www.premieraccuracy.com/gauges.html. I use it on every round I build. I hope you found something you can use in the video. Thanks for watching and the comment.
As a 22 y/o who just got into long range shooting and no family or friends that reload, I really wish I had a mentor like you to teach me the logistics and subtleties of reloading ammunition because you are obviously a great teacher. There is just so many questions I have that I don't even bother asking great content creator's like you usually because once they answered the question I feel like I have two more that came up. I know the powder grain scale, primer and annealer are together roughly $4,000 but In the odd chance that you see this comment I have one question. If you had an aspiring nephew who wanted to reload on his own after seeing your reloading setup, How much do you think he would need to save up for mid level reloading setup?
Thanks.
You can achieve great results without going to the extreme that I do. Just pay attention to the small details. There are plenty of scales that provide great results for modest amounts of cash. A good set of calipers is important. I did not anneal for may years and achieved great results. Try to only change one thing at at time and check your results.
If I had it to do over again I would probably start with a Forrester Coax press, Redding dies, and the best brass and bullets that I could find. Take your time when you reload. It took me many years to acquire the equipment and knowledge that I have. DON'T BE AFRAID TO ASK QUESTIONS! Most people in this community are happy to answer questions from a new member to the sport. Thank you for your comment.
@@williambrown8683 Thank you! I was considering using 250 A-tip’s for my 300 PRC with probably Lapua brass if I start
@@ELITEMARKSMANTVI seem to achieve better results with Berger 220g Hybrid Target bullets. They are not available now or for the past few months. I also like Sierra Match King HPBT in 220 grain and I have used Hornady A-Tips in 230 grain with good results. Each rifle is different. I am in the process of having my first custom rifle built. It will probably be completed in November. Be warry of a gun smith that can do things right away. A good gun smith always has customers waiting. GOOD LUCK!
@@williambrown8683 thanks for the wisdom
Hey guys, I am new to reloading also. Great video and great conversation. I wish that it was a much longer dialog between you two. I am online now looking for Mr. Brown suggestions.
Hey when using the amp annealing machine how do you get your codes
Amp Annealing came out with an update called AZTEC which takes one piece of brass from the lot you are using and tests it till destruction. In the process it generates a code you can use for the rest of your lot. Fast, simple and correct .I hope this note helps you.
@@williambrown8683 thanks, I have so much brass from years ago I don't remember which is which lot. Do you think that it would matter if I put 1 piece in and just do them all after that. Years ago we didn't have this technology so I didn't keep real good records of what I had
All the brass is good I don't want to waste it
@@tonydevich7937 It all depends on what you are trying to achieve? For plinking brass a flame annealer might work better. For competition you should use only brass from the same lot. Sort your old brass into caliber and manufacturer. That would be a good start. I start with a new box of brass, neck turn first, anneal and then resize to begin my process.
@@williambrown8683 I will do that from this point on. Ya the other brass is for just fun shooting of Prarie dogs and paper, ill just run them through and see what happens
is this a stock barrel? how long is it?
I have two 300 PRC rifels.......The one I was using when I made this video was a stock Rruger Percision in 300 PRC with the barrel that came with the rifle. My other rifle is a custom build with a 29 inch barrel. Both performed quite well. Thanks for the coment.
@@williambrown8683 did you use tight neck chamber in the custom barrel? if so, did it improve accuracy or ES/D?
@@markdang3379 The custom rifle uses a Bartlin barrell . My gunsmith cut the chamber a little tighter than stock because he knows I neck turn my brass. I see see slightly bettery performance.
@@williambrown8683 what was your ES for those 48 rounds?
What I can remember for that box was SD of 6.5 fps......I don't remember the ES
What bullet head does the 300prc use?
300 PRC bullets are .308 in diameter and are usually very long compared to other 308 bullets. The weight varies from about 185 grains up to 250 grains. I hope this answers your question?
Aneal before sizeing?
i always anneal before sizing , same as if you just purchased Lapua new brass.
I did not know there was such a thing as re-loading porn..... This is awesome!!!!! Sir, are these your target loads for the 300 PRC?... Can you perhaps share your experience with the caliber in a future video as I'm considering purchasing a rifle chambered with it here in Australia, where it is rare to find ammo on the shelf..... Like really rare! I mean two boxes (40 rounds in the city) so I pondered if it is really as good as the hype says, and if so I will reload.. Fabulous video and thankyou for sharing.
I have never thought of it that way? You made me smile. Thanks for watching and I hope you found something can use?
hi,bullet seating press name ?
My seating press is the Amp Press by Annealing Made Perfect. (www.ampannealing.com/amp-press/) I use the L E Wilson micrometer adjustable seating dies. Very pleased with the press. Thank You for watching the video!
@@williambrown8683 many thanks Wiliam.
You’re an engineer by trade, aren’t you
No sir.......I am not an emgineer by trade.........Just an old guy that likes to make the best ammo possible. Thanks for the comment.
You're using the bullet seater incorrectly. You should read LE wilsons instructions. Your seating pressure would be a lot more consistent if you dont tumble after annealing. Bullet concentricity does nothing for accuracy.
Thank you, I will take that into consideration.
I notice you drop the bullet into the top of the inline Wilson die. Wilson recommends you seat the bullet on top of the case then drop the die body over the complete round for better alignment. He mentions it 2:20 into the video
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Thanks for the comment. I have done it both ways and can/t seem to detect any difference in concentricity. Thanks again for watching toe video!
I take it you don’t load for prairie dogs then 🤷🏻♂️
Thanks for watching, you comment made me smile
Now show us how poor people would load
Old hot rod saying "SPEED COSTS, HOW FAST DO YOU WANT TO GO". Same thing with reloading precision ammo! I hope you liked the video?
What concertricity gauge are you using
Thanks for watching. I have the Premier Accuracy (www.premieraccuracy.com/index.html) run out tool on every round I build. It is quick and easy. I also have the Sinclair tool and use it once in a while also. I hope this helps you. Thank You