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DIY Induction Annealing Brass with .01 second accuracy for $200
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- Опубліковано 15 сер 2024
- I'll show you how to build your own Induction Annealer for brass cases that is accurate down to the 1/100th of a second and so powerful it can anneal a case in under a second. You only need the 5 items listed below. The part 2 video is now out to address all the design questions and some tips I've picked up over the last 2 years of using this setup.
Induction Bolt Heater Found on Amazon here, They have raised the price since I made the video but I have found some cheaper alternatives.
amzn.to/3FoHGfm
amzn.to/3L1b9NJ
amzn.to/3LpbUBB
These are the links to the original heater in the video
amzn.to/3IxArQu
amzn.to/2XWXq5W
So many of you have put this together Amazon is now suggesting these items together with the relay timer.
The relay timer here says 220v but this is the same one I got. I believe it is "up to" 220V. If you need something more solid try the next link to an alternative timer.
amzn.to/3L2cV0V
amzn.to/3AMY0S8
amzn.to/3q0Dz1b (120v AC)
amzn.to/2Wbpp0V
AC/DC Converter
amzn.to/3EQlpV2
3-Prong Extension Cord
amzn.to/3zFajhT
Plastic Bullet box (Berger works perfectly)
Also, check out this Labradar Recoil-Activated Trigger I developed. It has an intigrated pic rail attachment and magnetic mount. It can also be left on your rifle full-time with the detachable cable.
amzn.to/3Waw99n
I'm a bit slow catching on, but, with the huge success of this design, and following one of the comment's advice, "I may earn commissions for purchases made through the links below"... hopefully. "As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases"... hopefully.
#AMP #AnnealBrass #DIY #AnnealingMadeEasy #reloadinghack #brasslivesmatter #iblewthebreakertwice
I found this video last Summer when I was searching for an effective, yet affordable, way to anneal my brass. Watch the video, take your time assembling the different components, test it on a few rejects to get the timing and process dialled in and then get started! I decided on a stripped wire with a tight tolerance to reduce the duration of annealing. One of the most useful videos I’ve found on UA-cam!
I plan on taking this a step further by making a mount for my press and activation on the up stroke.
That would be awesome, post a pic when you get it finished
Mclick, it’s been 8 months. Your public needs to hear how you did it.
@Mclick12B , lets go buddy,
Aaaaaany time now
ua-cam.com/users/shortshLG31e8Vocs?feature=share something like this I just want to add a timer and a micro switch to activate the heater on the up stoke
I got this heater and timer and it works GREAT!! I used a Berry’s bullet box (slightly larger) and the 9V power transformer fits inside. Instead of the loop in the power cord I cut off the end completely, and use the plug end to power the transformer. All fits in the box, so all I have coming out is the cord going to the outlet and a short stubby cable to plug in the annealer. Very consistent annealing. I run the annealer 2.7 seconds for .223 brass with a 6 second off cycle. Instead of making my own coil I took the smallest coil included and just twisted the coil a little tighter for a closer fit. But, thanks for making this video! I’d still be thinking about how I was going to start annealing my brass without it!
As everyone else has said, thank you Sir, great system, haven't built mine yet, but will soon. I shoot .45-70 and .40-65, those brass cases are rare items here in Canada. The prices of your system is higher in Canada but not anywhere near the price of the AMP. That annealer is $1950. here in Canada, so you have saved myself and many more people a lot of money, thank you. Dave & The Girls
Just finish building this and it works great! Thank you so much for the info and the savings! Excellent video and really easy to follow.
wow, that's just awesome!! came across the AMP annealer and it's +$1500 price. *cough* i'm a fan of DIY stuff AND saving money. this, sir is a WIN!
Thank you so much! I am going to make one from basic components for my senior project for my EE degree. Glad to see people are doing this already. As a student I can never afford any nice reloading equipment and have had it in my mind to make this to save money for other things.
Greetings,
I constructed an annealer assembly using your idea with a similar unit but added a couple of convenience refinements. In lieu of using the push button all the time I installed a 3.5mm phono jack and plug. The jack receptacle is installed at the rear of the annealer and wired in parallel and soldered to the push button pins. The male plug is wired to the dry contacts of the timer so that when the dry contacts of the timer close it acts the same as pushing the button thus turning on the annealer. This allows the annealer to be used for other purposes and not dedicated to servicing brass. An on/off toggle switch was also installed on the cover of the timer case and wired in series with the “hot” conductor of the power cord so the timer can be turned off and on rather than having to unplug the timer from the power strip each time. The annealing unit came wired so the fan stays on all the time. On other units where the fan only comes on when the button is pushed the fan can be rewired to the annealer input power wires so that the fan stays on all the time. I have not had the annealer overheat as yet even when annealing a couple of hundred cases at a time.
I found that using #10 AWG solid wire took too long to heat up and cool down. I made some coils with #12 AWG solid wire and they seem to work better, reducing heating and cooling times. All in all everything works quite well and I believe is much safer than the propane torch or hot lead immersion methods. Good luck.
Could I talk you into building one like yours for cost od materials plus your profit
Work in progress. Ordered all the parts. I didn't have any bullet boxes to spare so I used a cardboard factory loaded eldx box. Came out looking pretty good. I just wish we could post pics in the comments
It took a year to talk myself into trying it. But I finally did it. $240 and I just annealed my first set of brass. If anyone is handy enough to reload, then putting all this together is not that hard of a job.
Thank for the how to, I never would have come up with this on my own.
Thank you very much for sharing this information. This is by far the cheapest setup out there, and has the same degree of accuracy. You need an affiliate link to the items so you can get some kind of compensation for this information. Either way thanks for sharing this with the community.
Just put one of these together. Works great! The fan runs the entire time button pushed or not! Goodbye propane! I used a bullet box as well. Thanks for the vid.
I took your ideafurther by adding an ice cube relay to send power to initiate a signal to trigger theswitch. Ifound the annealer needs to run constantly to cool. In short, 2 cords from the same circuit,one to the controller, and one to the annealler. A cord from the controller goes to a coil that pushes the button, so the internal fan runs constantly.
That’s how I’m going to set mine up
The funny thing is seeing others copying this setup and posting videos of same. I built a twin to this and it works fine, once I figure out how to set the relay timer that is. That’s on me. I saw no reason to post a copy of work you’ve already done. Have recommended the setup to others as well. I DID get an aluminum block and had it CNC’d for 7mag cases. That eliminates the issue of overheating a plastic reloading tray. It was also cheaper and I had access to someone who did that free. This is the cheapest setup of all my reloading “toys”. Great concept and kudo’s to posting this.
Great idea and great video! I hope you make money from us using the links to buy. -Cheers!
UPDATE: Note that some brass heats up MUCH faster than others. I thought something was wrong with my unit, until I tried another brand of cartridge and bam! It heated up just like the video. Slow heating is not a bad thing - it give you finer control over the result. Also, don't forget to cut the coil wire as short as possible, like in the video - it helps a lot.
Thanks for sharing. I'll go this route and verify the temp with tempilaq and spend the other 1100.00 on other shooting equipment.
Don't waste your time. If you want to do induction annealing on a budge build the GinaErik DIY induction annealer.
@@jetthreat5000 that's twice the cost and you literally have to build it with a lot of components and it doesn't look as user friendly with caliber changes
@@cademarti1365 First off, you will blow the induction board on this since it isn’t water cooled as it is designed to be used in short periods and over and over a hundred plus times. Second, the DIY GinaErick induction annealer isn’t hard to build. Third, it’s stupid easy to switch between calibers.
@@jetthreat5000 I see several people made and use this but none saying theirs broke
@@jetthreat5000 where's the plans to build this other one?
This is awesome. Thanks for sharing. It does appear though that it's heating the case to far down. Also another idea is to take what you've built and put it in a case. The with a perfectly aligned hole in the top just drop the brass in head down and wait for it to kick on and off, then just keep repeating. At that point it would be a matter of how fast you can remove one brass and insert another one. And since it will align perfectly you won't have to worry if the brass is touching the coil once you drop it in.
I’ve been contemplating taking on the challenge of building one of the several different diy annealers I’ve seen. . This one is hands down the best. Thanks.
I just finished my build too with some improvement. I disassembled induction heater and jumped out 2 button wires and 2 12v fan wires by an old 4 wire usb cord. The fan wires connect directly to the dc power supply and button wires to the relay terminals. Then I put 12v power supply into the same control box. This way the fan is always on when plugged in and only a low voltage control signal goes through the relay.
That sounds clean!
Mate you’re a freaking legend.
Bet I've come back and watched this video 6+ times. Even though I have the ANNEALEEZ 2.0 I still want one of these.
Just so much faster to set up and the speed at which it accomplishes the task is fascinating. I'm by no means a high volume shooter and the whole reloading process is therapeutic for me (I'm from the south so we don't do anything fast anyways). Must be the tinkerer inside of me. :-)
You'll love it, get ready to sell the Anal-eaze on eBay.
Outstanding. Works just like you say. I set mine up next to a single stage LEE Challenger and changed out the switch for the inductor so that I don't have to hold the button down. Control is through the relay with a locking on/off on the inductor. I raise the brass into the inductor coil and use a longer gap between cycles to give me time to swap the cases in the shell holder. I'm using it to anneal 24ga Magtec shotgun brass to form .577/450 Martini-Henry cases. Once I got the time dialed in I haven't ruined a case since, forming in 3 steps and annealing between each step. I'm not doing hundreds of cases (generally a box of 25), so the longer time isn't a big deal and the fan keeps up with the temperature well.
Just finished mine. Rolled my coil for my '06 Springfield custom.
Glad I have plenty of range brass I really underestimate the power in my daylight bench.
Tonight I had it dark lit with my EDC led flashlight pointed at the creaking so would not run into anything bug.
Will adjust my timer at night and install a foot switch.
Coil is the ground wire in a piece of 10 4 w/ground romex.
Mandrel is 5/8 in birch dowel.
Thanks for a really great DIY annealer.
Just built mine and it works like a charm! Thanks for smart people like you figuring this sh*t out for all us dummies out there
Ordered all parts today! I’m so excited about making this happen. Thanks for sharing!!
How'd it go?
I've recommended this video to MANY people.
Technically all the coil 'turn' counts should be in 1/2 turn increments. When you make a full turn, the end wire is pointing in the wrong direction. You need both leads pointing in the same direction so you can attach them to the power source (heater). This is why the directions for making inductors by wrapping wire around a drill bit references 3.5 or 5.5 turns.
Thanks for the good advice! Us non-engineers would never have known this.
Gotta love that phrase, "Technically speaking", always comes from a "certain" kind of person 🤣🤣🤣
Was fast and easy to put together. Works great! Thanks for the video.
I was looking at the gas machines i dont like the fuel running out idea. I do like the induction idea but as you realized and said its quite spendy. I like this idea. BRILLIANT! Thank you! I just subscribed
I knew I was in the right place when you broke out the Berger bullet box. 😉
I built mine, have to fine tune the timer to the brass. It goes on then off like yours, so it works. Very fast.
Very cool, glad I could help.
Also I bought copper for this in a roll 99.?? Pure. I cut exactly a foot, might want to go 14/15” next time.
Also I found 4mm fiberglass sheathing on EBay.
Let us know how long the sheathing last or how it holds up.
Insulation Braided Sleeving, 33Ft-4mm High TEMP Fiberglass Sleeve White. This is the listing, going to be a millimeter larger so I can get it right the first time. I would rather it fit with all the wait.
The eBay high temp sleeve came and it’s fine
Thanks for the video. I will be building mine later this month and prepping Brass in December.
Great system. I used 8 gage copper wire and made my own coils by wrapping it around some tubing. I started with 5/8" I.D., and it took 9.5 seconds to get the .556 brass to glow. I then made another coil with a 1/2" I.D., and the heating time really decreased - 2.5 seconds to get the same glow. So by decreasing the I.D. by 1/8", the time to heat was about 1/4 of the time. BTW, I also saw that the 110-volt timers listed on Amazon don't go less than 1 second, so the 12-volt timer was necessary.
Good info, thanks!
@John Hagerman I built mine using the 110V timer. It skips having to use a secondary plug and cable to run the setup which for me is a big plus. I am more than pleased so far. I just got it completed yesterday. That said the wiring of the 110V unit was a PITA. It took a while because the instructions are worthless. I got it now though and it's fine.
Anyway this is the first I've seen anyone explaining the difference between the 12V vs 100V timers. Really though asking out of curiosity more than anything would being able to time below 1 second make a difference? I could easily convert mine for $12 but at first glance I don't see the need.
@@tyler6147 Actually I originally built it with the 120v unit before I found out it didn't do less than 1 second intervals, so I switched to the 12 volt. In my limited experience so far, I think the 1 second interval would be workable if the induction coil I.D. is larger, like I originally had with the 5/8" I.D. coil. Certainly using the smaller coil means that the timing is more critical due to the fast temperature rise - maybe that's not such a good thing. By making your own coils and experimenting with I.D. sizes, an operator could probably come up with a happy medium pretty quickly.
@@johnhagerman1465 That's exactly what was running through my head. Maybe play with the coils a bit and see what happens. I am using the coils that came in the pack (with the heat resistant stuff on them). I straightened them and rewound one of them to see how it works. I have three of them so I can possibly come up with an optimal diameter.
@@tyler6147 I bought 3 feet of 8 ga solid wire from a local (real) electrical supply shop for $5, so feel free to experiment as much as you want!
Great video to provide such a low cost, clean, and result-consistent solution! Thank you Sir!
This is the best Idea I have seen to date on this topic. Add in the comment from Mclick12B and your set. Thanks for the inspiration.
Nice work! I can see one of these in my future. I actually have some old PLCs laying around so this could be a fun project.
Ive been using the salt method. Works but is a bit of a process. 2 min in to your video, You got me convinced to switch
What a cool video. I do not reload and have no reason to watch this, but damn it’s super interesting. I plan to buy one of those induction heaters for working on my cars.
Nice job on the video.
LOL, got sucked into the ole' UA-cam wormhole huh? Weird it led you here.
I'm really impressed by the heating time !!!
Thanks, this is reloading's best kept secret.
Thank you for this video. I just built this setup but put it in a box with a trapdoor. Mounted the hot rod in the box on all thread with hanger strap. Sloted the holes and added knobs so you can adjust your coil up and down. The all thread lets you adjust the left,right. If you pop the back off of the timer you'll see a connector labeled trigger. I soldered wires to the gnd and low signal terminals and ran them to a momentary pushbutton on the front of the box for a start pushbutton instead of using the one on the front of the timer. I'm using a 15a 24vdc power supply to feed the timer, solenoid, and some cooling fans. I ganged up two computer turbo looking fans to force air into the back of the hot rod so it has a continuous air flow instead of only running it's internal fan when the timer turns it on. There's a pretty good breeze coming out of the front of the hot rod. I have a timer relay that will auto activate the trapdoor with the annealer finishes. Getting the cases out of the coil asap may lessen the heat soaking into the coil. My first coil attempt was 12awg wrapped 7 times around a 10mm socket. It would do a 308 in 4 seconds. The second was 8 wraps around a 308 case for 556. It turns the case red in 1.5 seconds. I think I'll do a different .308 coil with 8 wraps around a 338L case to get more efficiency. Thank you NETT for this vid and your updates!
Yes! 7 wraps with 12awg wire anneals most of my cases in under 2 seconds. Love the upgrades! 👍
@@northeasttexastactical351 I present the Ghetto Ass Annealing Made Pretty Good 400.
ua-cam.com/video/2i58FN0C9wA/v-deo.html
@@northeasttexastactical351 added one more fan inside the box that blows out through the coil access to cool off the coil. Works very well. 6.5 creed brass in 1.7 seconds.
Up too 800 6.5 cases through the annealer without issue. Figured out if you set the timer to a continuous loop with a 7 second delay you can just feed it cases without it getting hot. Currently looking at a pile of parts and electronics that will become a case feeder for it.
@@northeasttexastactical351 casefeeder code test. ua-cam.com/video/p9OSeGtVa3g/v-deo.html
Finished putting the pieces of mine together today. Disassembled the heater so I’m using the time to just control the switch. The fan runs continuously on the heater and it stays nice and cool. 1.5 on and 4 seconds off is just right for the coil I made to use on 38 special brass.
I ordered some 3mm fiberglass braiding with my timer and used 8 gauge copper for my coil. Stayed nice and cool
haha nice setup, love the part where you change coils just like you would do on a machinegun changing barrels
Got mine assembled and working last night. Thank for the informations.
Great video. I'm sure it will help the reloading community a lot. Thank you!
I would imagine the 27 thumb downs were the product manufacturers that are pissed you made something better for way less and more consistency. getting the parts now thanks.
All 27 AMP owners..
I use an AMP. There are some great things and there are some not so great things about it, but that's with any tool customized for reloading. I think this is a brilliant way to anneal for $200. Over annealing isn't hard to do. You can anneal over and over on the same settings, if it takes the brass to the magic temp, and it won't hurt it all. The brass gets red during induction annealing and even during flame annealing, but the flame makes it difficult to see it happen as the flame and the light from the heat in the brass are in the same spectrum.
Kudos to you for figuring this out. I know a guy that made one out of a spare PC and some parts for his ELR cartridges, because the AMP, while good at it but not great, struggles with large ELR caliber cases which are mostly based off 50BMG. I have several times thought about making a competitive model to the AMP using liquid cooling to lower the temp of the coils while maintaining current. Just have too many other 007 assigned projects to do. That's the American 007 which mean wife.
Already have the AMP, but this is pretty awesome. Nice job.
The first AMP owner who didn't take it as an assault on his character! Very nice! Glad you liked it.
I’m not that intense about this stuff. It’s a hobby and a passion for me. I appreciate people like you that are investing time and energy to make it better for all. Keep up the good work.
@@northeasttexastactical351 i'm sure the AMP guy took a boat load of crap from the torch guys at first!
Just built and works great.
Worked with industrial induction heaters in the past. They kept the coils cool by making them from small dimension rectangular copper tubing and pumping distilled water through through it while it’s running. The wires are connected to each end of the coil and it’s electrically just like you have on your setup. Pure water is a pretty good insulator, and using about 8-10” of small diameter rubber tubing at each end of the tube turns the water in the tube into a long resistor with a low cross sectional area and therefore a high resistance. I remember seeing wires connected to a water cooling system totally blew my mind until I figured out how it worked…. Once a tube sprung a leak and a maintenance man simply shortened the hose to quickly get it back in service. He equipment didn’t work correctly and because we were not aware of the hose repair it took a while to figure out what the problem was.. I’ve got about a years worth of brass before I need to think about annealing, maybe I’ll set something up on my Dillon 650. It would be pretty easy.
Thank you so much! I have wanted an induction annealer but just cant swing the AMP price tag!
Just completed mine. I used a stock coil that fits great over my brass. To pick the cycle time I watched the brass turn gray and creep down the neck and about 3/8" passed the shoulder. The case never glowed. I believe that should work nicely. It took 19 seconds for reference... I was quite surprised it took that long but Im ok with it. I can't see spending $1400 on the AMP when this appears to do the same job with great repeatability. Thank you very much for sharing!!!
You can speed that time up by wrapping more coils tighter around the case.
@@northeasttexastactical351 Thank you, I saw thats what you did and read some comments. I'll pick up some wire and give it a shot. Again, thanks for sharing. Great and simple DIY.
Terrific idea, thanks! I just got put mine together, but mounted it to a board. So the annealer is fixed and I can just drop the case into the coil. I made a simple spring loaded wooden gate below to drop the case into a basket hanging beneath it. I also added a switch and outlet on the board for power.
Very nice. I just got a 3D printer so I'm marinating on ideas,
Brilliant setup. Thanks for the video
Great Idea! I duplicated your work except I bought the Nearpow "infinite repeat cycle timer" off Amazon for $17 and saved the work of building a timer. Works great. I do 10sec on and 4 sec off for 308win
10 seconds it's a bit long, change up your coil and get that down to under 2 seconds per case.
Place the hand held induction heater on a drill(Hand drill) press stand to lower and raise to a set height, use a foot pedal/swich to start heater, place a U shaped aluminum channel as guide and drill case sized holes in a strip of wood or aluminum that will run in the guide under the heater coil, place water bucked under the end of guide so cases drop through hole. About the same as cartridge press, One hand to run the handle and the other to place the cases. Nock youself out if you want to automate. Same foot activated swich for a raise and lower hidraulic/pneumatic/electrical press stand
This why I love youtube from the start... awesome content!!!
Just ordered through your link and I hope you make a few extra bucks for it…🙏
Thank you! Just bought…. I repair things that get rusted together randomly… this will be a great 2 for one…
Very nice!!
This is great, and i don't think even using an AMP will get you that much more accuracy, if at all. My main reason is to get more life out of the brass, since they can get quite expensive. This is perfect, thx for uploading this
Great minds think alike. I had all the stuff in my cart and I figured I should maybe just google maybe some else went trough all the trouble doing this and low and behold I found your video thanks and mine is on the way now
This is awesome 😀
I'll probably go this route. I've been doing it like you said with the torch. Itd be great to get that consistency
I have a 0-150vac variac and I'm thinking I can do this very same thing using nichrome resistance wire. I like the timer so will incorporate that into the build. Up till now I just use the variac to make hot wires for cutting foam but have nichrome wire in sizes from .09 guitar string size to 3/16" heater coil. Will let you and all know how it works out.
No open flame means added safety. Very cool.
Absolutely brilliant! This is exactly what I was looking for.
Put mine together last night and with the way my coil is wound, I'm not sure I'm going to mess with the timer. I don't think it matters how far down the case your anneal goes as long as the neck and shoulder are fully annealed. (obviously you don't want to soften the case head or web). I just wound the coils using the coil winding mandrels that come with my Socket Set (8mm and 9mm mandrel as you did-- worked great!). It seems plenty effective to just heat until you see the first hint of glow, then release.
Funny that I’d get a notification of ETT liking my comment the same day I finished the timer build. It works great! My particular coil needs 1.4 seconds for a good anneal, but I’m pleased.
Excellent information!! Thank you. 🐕
Yes the AC wire diagram for the timer is wrong. It was drawn as if it was DC except they put the (+) on the wrong side of the load. To make it work you would splice an additional piece of wire into the cord's white(neutral), which would go to the timer's GND terminal. Then cut the black(hot) wire; split the male plug side into two wires, and connect one to VCC and one to S1. Finally, connect the black wire on the female plug side to SO. Leave the green wire uncut. This applies to the device in your first link.
Need to hurry up and build one. Awesome video.
Thank you! Brilliant piece of info. I will try this soon!
I’m doing this for annealing
So how do you know when the case has been sufficiently annealed ?
You can buy an induction heater kit off Amazon for $20 +/- I bought one of the larger ones with a water cooled coil and used a 48v 1000w PSU to drive it. It heats up a 1/2" bolt cherry red in a few seconds.
Didn’t see it...do you have a link or detailed description?
@@MrOffshore search induction heater on Amazon. There are a wide range of options depending on what you are doing
I load….and I have this tool….. why have I not thought of this!
This is awesome and very useful. Thank you!
I ordered the parts from Amazon, and the last one came today. Quick and easy setup, and works exactly as described here. Great video and thanks for producing it. The only change I see so far that I need to make is to attach the bullet box to a thick steel plate, because right now the box is much lighter than the cord and the weight of the cord pulls it off the bench.
That's true, my box just flips around on the table. Glad you like it
That is a great how-to!
You actually CAN touch the case as long as you have that white fiberglass sleeve on the wire, As a matter of fact you can get them done faster if you use the sleeve as the thing that keeps the gap consistant. Its as close to the wire as you can get without touching it.,
Love my AMP Annealer, it is a precision piece of equipment. You get what you pay for!
You sure do, and the other $1000 goes into AMP's pockets.
@@northeasttexastactical351 you have no idea what goes into building it, plus your setup might work for you, but for guys like me that load 30 plus calibers its way simpler than your hokie setup!😉
@@northeasttexastactical351 show us how to make our own suppressors, so we don't have to give those companies $700 for $100 in parts.
Help out the people
hahaha, epic reply@@northeasttexastactical351
@@Bushmasterpilot right! btw they are called cartridges
I've been using propane with 'some' success meaning sub 1/2 MOA consistently from my 6.5 C and .223. This however would be more consistent and faster than what I'm doing. Thanks!!
Good for you. I am doing something about the same. I use copper tube and pump water through it. Never gets hot. Use a computer water cooling radaitor and fan.
I thought about upgrading to something like that, but it only takes 1 second, or actually like .92 seconds to anneal a case, so I can do 100 cases in about 6-7 minutes with a 3 second off cycle
thanks, Adam!
I can't drop $1300 on a machine and didn't want the fidgety propane solutions that looked like you were basically guessing and very inconsistent. I looked up making an annealer and this is the first one I have seen that didn't require 500 steps and some sketchy circuit building. I may just pick the parts up, the big difference between this an AMP is they have the formulas and hardness tester, I'm thinking of just doing some range work where you anneal for X amount of time and go up a short amount, shoot, a bit more, shoot and grab the velocity and group size data to see where the peak accuracy comes from.
If you reduce the watts on the transformer output, the case would heat up a little slower and it would be easier to time the precise amount needed to get perfect results. As much as the $200 induction heater is significantly less expensive than the professional units, you can make one from a discarded microwave transformer very easily for under $80. It's not about saving $120, it's about getting a unit that is perfect for the job.
@@ronaldroberts7221 Huh, sounds interesting. I'll have to do some research on that.
@@InvestorAcademyPodca The transformer would only be for the power supply. Read the electricbike dot com article on making a resistance soldering unit and spot welder from a microwave transformer first, then here is the video I would use ua-cam.com/video/YO_cYhV6eIM/v-deo.html
Thank you for the accurate information!!
Thanks great stuff
This is one of the best annealing videos on UA-cam (I've watched/re-watched several times), thanks!
I recently purchased the induction heater and a timer. One wrinkle though: while the heater looks identical, the interior fan runs constantly (which is probably good for cooling) once plugged in. I hesitate to disable this by using the timer to control power to the unit....but don't have a lot of great options. I'm not really interested in changing the internal wiring to exclusively power the heater from the timer..... I guess another option would be going the route of removing the case out the bottom, as the GinaErik design does-
Any thoughts or wisdom would be appreciated. Thanks again for the cost effective idea!
Glad you liked it. Ive seen guys who get the one with the fan on full time. Regardless, the induction unit will only have power when the relay allows it, so technically it shouldn't matter how the fan operates when plugged in normally because they will all operate the same when using the timer module. The only difference I see is when you aren't pushing the button the fan will still cycle on and off for the set amount of time due to the relay.
One work-around you can do is to have a short 'off' phase that is just long enough to transition onto or off of a case. Then hold the coil well above during 1-2 cycles without pressing the button that powers the coil so that the fan runs but the inductor does not. You could also just keep another fan blowing nearby, like the creator of this mentioned is good to do anyways.
@@ericstrabel4365 some units run the fan full time whether the button is on or off, so that would work. Mine only works when the button is pushed though.
@@northeasttexastactical351 ah, I gotcha
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Induction heat is the right way to do this ! Let it air cool or dump them in sand
Thank you! It is really interesting. I will try the same but will attach one plate on top with a hole to drop a brass upside down centred into the coil.
Never anneal upside down
@@samlebo4704 why not? the termal transfer is way higher in the brass then any rising air would manage..
@@samlebo4704 Doesn’t the AMP anneal cases upside down???
I like many who reload want to anneal our brass cases, but what method is cost-effective? The AMP isn't cost-effective by any means, but if you have the bread, buy it. The flame, yes leaves a question "did it do the job or not." The recoil method may be "I don't have a way to test my machine." Whatever method you are using, it may work to a degree to anneal brass cases. Eric Cortina and Vortex have videos on the subject saying with the flame method about 7/8 seconds. EP Integrations annealer is what I use. It is fast and simple!
Brilliant sir! Thank you so much for this!
outstanding DYI video. thank you very much.
I built something similar to this a couple years ago. still bought an AMP . if you are this much into shooting put the $200 towards an AMP.
If $200 bought an AMP I certainly would!!!
I think the cost behind the Annealing Made Perfect is the laboratory science supporting the annealing code and verifiable Vickers hardness achieved, in the right place. Not saying you can't achieve a level of annealing with your setup, I just don't see how it compares in accuracy. Still, I applaud your ingenuity.
Maybe, I don't know how expensive "science" is, but I'd bet they have that loan paid off by now and yet the price remains the same. Maybe my next video will be "PO-boys Vickers Testing" 😉 The physical annealing is the same regardless of what power supply is hooked up to the coil. Before induction annealing guys were doing just fine breaking benchrest world records using the propane torch method. AMP might have made it idiot-proof by preprogramming profiles for different brass, but as far as accuracy goes? It is accurate to .01 seconds! how much more accurate do you need? The window from perfectly annealed brass to over-annealed brass is relatively wide, and any competent reloader could easily tune this setup to stay within that window consistently. At this point, I would probably take a free AMP if the wife was just really feeling X-mas this year, but I'd probably mostly still use this setup for speed.
What will be interesting though, and I will try to do this, you gave me a great idea, when their AMP PRESS comes out, test the seating pressure consistency of AMP annealed brass and "PO-boy " annealed brass. That's what it all comes down to in the end anyways, consistent neck tension.
Look, I might be wrong, but from the research I've done, there's a relatively large window for a case to be "properly annealed". I think AMP marketing is getting into folk's head that there's only a snippet in time / energy to get a proper Vicker's value. YMMV
If Eric Cortina can shot small groups with a propane bench mark, this induction annealer will be just fine.. ;)
That is extremely useful and much appreciated! Thank you very much!!!
Thank you for this video!
I'm curious how much power (ex. how many amps) the device is drawing during the annealing cycle. I'm assuming the open circuit voltage on the output (where the induction coils connect) is a nominal 120 V.
Hello Mr North. Just question for you or others reading. I bought everything and it works AWESOME. However, the induction heater I have works with the fan on all the time even when you don't press the red button. This is good to save the machine as you mentioned. However, when I put it on the timer relay the fan only works when the button is pressed. I think the relay cuts all the power off the heater. Is there a way to adjust the relay so that it still powers the fan ??? Or the work I did with the relay is just a continuous stop watch. PLS HELP!
Great job!
Thank you for the tip!
I was looking at the different annealing process and machins... all very pricy often bulky, complex and for some dangerous (who wants molten sodium on his bench or carbon monoxid in the room...)
Your solution is the way to go for me! Thanks again :)
Fantastic, thank you for sharing!!
I’m going to try to Mount this above my press and raise the case with the ram then when it shuts off lower ram and use a case kicker to kick the case into a baking pan. Then reload the shell holder
Hopefully my brass sticks out enough above the press
I wish you had spent more time showing the wiring sequence. Some of us are electrically challenged. Great idea though.