Carveco V-Carve inlay tutorial
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- In this video I explain the V-Carve inlay process in detail as well as creating a story board to show how the seats look on the carve. I also highlight machine set up practices and wood selection. I use @carveco software and a @Shapeoko XXL for this tutorial. the board is Cherry wood, and the male is Maple wood.
I use a 12.4-degree tapered ball nose at 30 inch/min
I also use a 1/16-inch end mill at 10 inches minute or less
I recommend using an eighth inch end mill, when possible, to complete roughing passes and speed then would be 30 inches per minute
Here is the link to BHL woodworks
• Wolf Inlay
Thanks! A great tutorial that doesn’t fry my brain. I like knowing the whys but I’ll save that for another time.
Hi Vernon, I have met and been involved with many professionals but very few have the ability to teach. Everything is easy once you know how so when they instruct, they leave the details out. You, my friend, have a gift. I combed the internet on how to do inlays with Carveco and in every case they leave out a detail or two and I am tired of crashing my machine. With that said, I am sorry to report that I crashed it again following your instruction BUT I am confident I am missing a "detail" simply because your video proved it. I made a 4 piece story board of a simple 1/2" X 2" rectangle. When I set the "Start Depth" at .02" my CNC plunges the 1/8" end mill .02" right into my Test board. I went over and over your video and noted every word. I zoomed right into the toolpaths and everything looks good. After hours of failure I tried in vein, knowing what the outcome would be, by setting the "Start Depth" at .005" .006", .007" and .009" and the max depth to .20" in hopes it might work. Well it did cut them out but as expected, the narrow part of the male was the same size as the top of the female. Sooooo........ I am stuck!! I hope you have a few magic words for the answer.
Thank you for the kind words
A few things I can advise
1-This technique is done in end grain which is more forgiving as it relates to stress on the cutter
2-slow the feed rate to 30ipm or less
3- the end mill step down setting may be too much in your programming
The step down on a 1/8” mill should be a 1/16 or less (typically step down is 1/2 the bit diameter)
4-Once you get the carve cutting correctly you may have to adjust the start depth point slightly to tighten or loosen the male portion
I have also offset the male outward .01 a .02 to tighten the male
5-don’t wait too long between male and female cutting the wood will shrink and make the pieces fit incorrectly in some cases
6- also the tapered ball nose should be entered in the tool library as a engraver bit. You can adjust the radius on the tip, whereas a Vee tool, you cannot
Hope this helps
GOT IT!!! Your suggestion #2 was spot on.....Just needed to slow the feed. In addition, I switched from a Spiral Router Bit (looks like a file) to a high quality 2-flute. Much appreciated. John
@user-jo3bd8vj8f very welcome
Amazing buddy. Going to try my first one this weekend and will make a sample board like you .
Vernon, If you click on the "SAVE TOOLPATHS TO SEPARATE FILES" It will do that automatically and you don't have to move your files to the CALCULATED TOOLPATHS side.
Thanks for the info Karl I didn’t know that one!
I found something interesting and a modification I needed to make when using a TBN for inlays. When I set this up as a v-bit in my tool database, I did some test cuts just cutting a 1.25" diameter circle. It worked fine for the female pocket, but cut the male insert just a little too small and there was too much play in the pocket. After doing some research, some set up the TBN as an engraver bit in the tool database, key difference is you need to specify a flat width for the bottom of the bit. This worked great for the male but cut the female too small. So for my CNC, I set up the female pocket using the TBN as a v-bit and the male male is cut using the TBN as an engraver bit and it seems to work.
Thanks for the info Ed
Since the time I realest this video I have found that offsetting the male vectors outward .01 to .02 tightens up the male also.
Great information thanks for sharing
@@Hinkleshop Yes, that's about right. The male should have been 1 25" at a depth of .2 based on your tutorial and the way I set things up in Carveco, but it was only about 1.22" just as you noted. About the thickness of the tip on the TBN.
Hello - thank you for this information…it helped a lot. Did you end up making an advanced inlay video?
Thank you for watching
I’m glad it helped
No I haven’t made an advanced one yet but it is definitely on my to do list
Awesome video Vern thanks for posting!
Cheers Mark
Thanks you so much for the time and money you spend making these videos. My question has to do with my new Genmitsu CNC 3020 Pro MAX. I need a software, user friendly, to use with my MAC Pro. all your videos refer to "Windows" environment commands. Is Carveco what I need. (In your opinion). Thx John
Thank you for watching and the kind words
Yes I would choose Carveco it has tremendous potential for projects
Can all the features demonstrated work with the standard Carveco (non-plus) version to your knowledge?? Thanks.
Yes this can be done in maker
This is a great tutorial! Are any aspects of this process unique to Maker+? Can this be done on Maker?
Thank you
No this can definitely be done with straight maker
Excellent video on v-carving with Carveco. This is definitely going to be the tutorial I use when I try doing this. You've mentioned making a bunch of other videos if people are interested. I'd like to submit my vote for every one of the other videos. Thank you for making this.
You are very welcome
Once you have the process down then you can make small adjustments to the male if needed until you are able to get a perfect fit
Excellent tutorial!
Thank you for taking the time to invest in our learning.
superb tutorial, I plan to try this technique in the near future with the story board. I did a inlay in the past and it came out OK, but did have a couple very small gaps that I hope to eliminate. Keep up the great videos, I really appreciate them.
Thanks. This is really helpful. Do you keep the same depths for all V-Bit angles? 45, 60, 90, etc? Also, I would like to learn more about how these numbers were determined. Any discussion boards or math that I can review?
Your welcome
Yes you keep the same numbers in some cases adjusting slightly
Sorry i dont know of any discussion boards
I learned this from Carveco tutorial Leighton does a good job explaining the why
@@Hinkleshop Thanks again. I must have missed that particular tutorial. I'll look for it.
Great video. I'm glad it's still around. I have a different problem compared to what I've read in the comments. My male plug always comes out too large. Would changing the .05 finish depth fix this?
Also, tramming is a colossal pain in the a**. Do you have any tips to make it easier?
Thanks for all your posts. I've learned a lot from you.
Thanks Craig
For the male i would try offsetting the male inward .001 to .002 or something in between
For tramming surface the waste board first depending on what machine you have i have used clamps to help move the spindle in fine adjustments its tough to figure out how to mount them though to get them to pull the spindle
I also three d printed shims and used aluminum foil at times hope any of this helps
Thanks for the support
Thanks for the quick response. I'll definitely try offsetting.
The clamps are an excellent idea for tramming. I have a genmitsu 4040-pro. No where near what you have, but I do like it a lot.
I also noticed you're cutting into the end grain. That probably makes a huge difference.
Yes it does i rarely do inlay long grain.
If Cutting Depth is in millimeter, what is the depth in mm
Anytime I have to convert from inches to millimeters. You can do that simply by going on the Internet and searching a inches to millimeter conversion chart, however
.25 is 6.35 mm
.20 is 5.08 mm
.05 is 1.27 mm
For the make toolpath setup, would it fail if you do a final depth of the .25 instead of the .2 starting with a .05 doc?
Thanks for watching
I believe it would but, the risk of snapping the bit would be greater
If I was going to try it I would slow the feed rate down to compensate for the extra force against the bit
You just changed my life with showing how to reduce the colors and link colors together to simplify and clean it up!
Awesome!! That’s my objective to help everyone!
Really good information... To bad its not with vectric... Im gonna use this with vectric and try it thanks brother... Keep it up brother
THIS VIDEO HELPED ME TREMENDOUSLY! MEGA APPRECIATE THIS!
Thanks for watching and glad it helped you
Vernon, I found this video very informative. Excellent job. The main thing I learned was that I needed to "tram" the spindle very accurately. I've been struggling with inconsistent inlay results using F-Engrave, and was only able to get acceptable inlays when using 30° or less V Bits.
My one comment would be, you seem to be ingnoring the offset requrired for the inlay cut ( I assume this is because you are usine a very sharp angle Vbit.)
Example for a 60° bit: tan(1/2 bit angle) the tan of 30° is .57735. You must multiply this factor times the depth of cut and offset that amount. For .2" depth of cut the offset would be .11547" This will offset the V carve cut the exact distance to allow for a precise fit of the male component.
I'm surprised that this feature is not builtin to Carveco.
Dan B
Thanks Dan and thanks for the added info I’ll give those numbers a try on one of my next carves
Well your video is great. But you said you made you cutter a carve bit. Now it is a ball you also said. I tried this and made the tool but nowhere did it ask the radius of the ball. So I think that is why my pieces were loose. I think carve bits have little to know flat or rad on the bottom.
Thanks for watching since I published this video I have learned you should enter the tapered ball nose in the tool library as a radiused engraving bit and manually enter the specs
thanks I will try that
@@Hinkleshop
do I enter it as a vbit or an engraving tool bit
@@marceldeman1541 engraving tool
Well I think I am on the right track but using a vbit tool path on both pos and neg they are still loose. but in vcarve I saw a video that he used a pocket tool path and that worked. but it is tight and not getting down to the bottom. That is the strategy that worked in vcarve for me. oh and also found an issue with my machine. bought it used and figured every thing was set but my touch plate was set .03 thicker then the touch block fixed that and it got better, but was going all the way to the bottom of the pocket and still loose. so I used this guys system in vcarve.
ua-cam.com/video/aWqHqqDtp5c/v-deo.html
I just tried your process (really surprised CarveCo doesn't have a V-Carve Inlay process) I got good results.
I used a 1/8" 20deg V bit as I didn't have a suitable taper bit.
Results
0.05 Great V contact less than 1mm glue space, shoulders meet
0.07 Great V Contact, 1.8mm glue space, 1.9mm shoulder space
0.09 Great V Contact 1.9mm space 2.5mm shoulder space
0.1 Great V contact 0.5mm glue space 2.5 shoulder
0.15Great V contact 1mm glue space, 3.1 shoulder
Looks like 0.05 is best all round, 2nd place 0.1mm
thank you for the inspiration and confidence to try as my previous attempts only had 1.5 - 2mm V contact & bitty mating with gaps. These fully matched. Well Pleased, thank you
You’re very welcome John !!!
Dam good video, Brother!! Great information!
Thank you
I’ve got a bunch of tutorials I’m working on and will be uploading them asap in future
Thank you for all the support!
So, I followed your instructions and had one inlay turn out great. However, the next one not so much, even though using the same settings. In fact, I tried it a second time and both times, the male inlay comes up about 1/16" smaller than the female for all vectors? Not sure what I'm doing wrong. Used an 1/8" endmill for rough and a 1mm tbn entered as a v-bit in my tool library.
Since this video I’ve learned if you enter the T ball as an engraving bit you can enter the radius of the ball that may help
Also I’ve learned not to allow too much time between male and female caves because the wood shrinks in some cases
@@Hinkleshop Thanks for the reply. I will try again after Christmas
Im trying to make an Inlay im using a 1/8 balled nose I dont have the bit you have but my carve is not going deep enough I put limit depth .25
I believe the bit is to large in diameter and is stopping shallow so it doesn’t ruin the vector boundary
Thanks so much, I couldn't see too much different on the sliced part but I understand what took place.
You’re welcome thanks for watching
I spent 6 hours trying to inlay one letter 2” big in CarveCo maker. I’ve been using easel for a while. Trying to learn better software
My male pc kept being way small because my brain was stuck in Easel. Thank you so much for this video. When you don’t know how to do something it can get very frustrating. I have a small machine right now but I don’t want to purchase a much larger nicer machine until I have all the software figured out. I figured I could learn on the smaller cheaper one first.
Thank you for watching and I hope the video helped you
@@Hinkleshop
Yes,, it did. I’m your biggest fan 😁. Not in creepy way lol.
just a question for you. would these numbers work with a 1/2 Dia x 60 degree or 45 degree?
Thank you for watching
Unfortunately I don’t think so this is just a suggestion I would reduce the start depth on the male to maybe .1 and finish depth of .15 this will become a testing exercise until you get the correct numbers
The steps to create male and female vectors will be the same though
Love this video. I've played around slightly and been confused about the male part. I ended up using the exact settings as the female but touching off the z and then lowering .5mm and resetting the z for my male part. This essentially did what you did with the settings without actually knowing how to set the setting haha. Good video.
Thank you
Sometimes it’s a matter of trial and error and just luck lol
I always enjoy your videos!! Thanks for everything you do for the Carveco community!!
Glad you enjoyed it! I am happy to contribute to the community!
Carveco is an awesome program!
Fantastic video! It's so difficult to find a youtuber with carveco experience. I'm trying to do the inlay the same way you did however my bit (Amana #46282-K 5.4 degree tapered bit) is making the male inlay smaller than the female, do you have any tips in to how to set it up? I'm sure I did something wrong
Thank you Luis
In some case if you offset the vectors on the male outward .03 to .05 it will tighten them up
The numbers I used were for a different angled bit
You might also try decreasing the start depth on the male
Hope this helps
@@Hinkleshop Thansk! That make sense 😬 I’m goin got try reduce the female as the run time is lower, I’ve gone through lots of scrap wood trial and error!
Thank you for demystifying the inlay process.
Thank you for watching hope it helps
well buddy, after all the tutorials i watched finally one the really helped me, thank you so much
Thanks for watching!
glad it helped you!
I have a dout, the star depth is suppose to be under 0.00 so the value we put in there is negative cos i did it just like you said on the video , my female depth is 6.35mm so for the male i put 5.2mm on the star depth and 1.15mm om the maximum depth but my cnc cuts 6.35mm
Hi Vernon, would there be any disadvantages to adding a clearing pass before running the vbit tool path (both roughing and carving) so the plunge is not stressful on the bit?
No disadvantage I’ve seen that done by a few colleagues of mine it reduces the risk of bit damage
@@Hinkleshop thanks!!!
Thanks for your time!! very helpful.
You’re welcome thank you for watching glad it helped you
Thanks Vernon
Great tutorial. One question . On the male, if you start at 0.2" and max depth 0.05", does that mean the 1/16" bit has to plunge in 0.2" and carve that out in one go so the total depth is 0.25"? That's putting a lot of load on the small bit.
Thank you
Yes it will plunge .2 so you will need to slow your feed rate to between 20-30 ipm and it works best in end grain applications also I’ve had some good success running the tapered ball nose first then the end mill second you may want to give that a try too
@@Hinkleshop Thanks for the great tutorial. Can you explain why (what is the purpose) to plunge .2 on the first pass? It seems that you could safely take less on the first pass, do incremental cuts to obtain desired depths. You could still adjust Max Depth value as you describe in the Story Board approach testing. Thanks again for the time and effort you put into making the instructional videos.
Tough to explain but you are essentially lying to the machine telling it your surface is .2 lower than reality then .05 max depth is used to align the edge of the bit with the vector
Leighton does a better job explaining it on the Carveco channel tutorial
i tried all of these numbers on my onefinity elite and the male is too small on all, width not depth. Any ideas?
Couple things did you load the taper ball as an engraving bit I’ve since learned that
Also I have at times offset the male outward .01 - .02 to tighten things up a bit
@@Hinkleshopthanks I will try that
How do you set the clearance so you can see the male portion actually set into the female. I want to se more clearance on the waste material if that makes sense.
If I understand you correctly I would reduce the depth of cut on the female incrementally until you achieve the desired result
I want to set the male portion to have a better clearance. So I can see a gap between the female and the male portion. So wehen I go to set it I can see the inlay is properly set.
I see
Then if you increase the finish depth on the male that should do it
Question I need to know this. Why do I need a start depth That is not zero when doing the male piece. Why can I not gradually go down to the depth I need
I’ll do my best to explain
If you start at the top the software will not allow the bit to go deep enough because once the edge of the vee bit touches the vector that it is carving it will stop going deeper
So by starting lower you are essentially lying to the software and as it carves to what it thinks is the vector it actually has already cut in which as a byproduct gives you the desired depth of cut
Its a tough one to explain for sure
@@Hinkleshop
Well, thank you for explaining that much of it. It makes sense now. I’m having a really hard time making it work. I’ve been in the garage all day and have spent hours trying to make an inlay work and it just won’t do it.
I cannot do the .2 on my first cut because that is too deep For my little bit that I am trying to do the inlay with.
@@Checkitfirst if the male is loose try offsetting the male vectors outward slightly .01-.02
Also be sure to load the tapered ball as an engraving bit it Carveco and enter the bit dimensions for radius etc that might help as well if your using a tapered ball
@@Hinkleshop it’s too tight. It won’t even go in.
@@Checkitfirst interesting it’s usually the opposite
But try offsetting inward the same small amount
Do you have a link to the TBN used?
Thanks for watching
I purchased the bit from Amazon
However I recommend a 12.5 degree from Amana tools they are much more expensive though
Jiiolioa ZQ31B3 Spiral CNC Router Bits 2D&3D Carving 6.2 Deg Tapered Angle 3 Flute Ball Nose1/4" Shank 1/32"X1"X1/4"X3"
Greatly appreciate the time you put into this process!
Thank you for watching
And you’re welcome hope it helped
Well, it’s me again. I cannot get it to work. On the male piece where you say, make it .2 it drives my little bit all the way down into the wood .2” on first pass. Any ideas what I am doing wrong
Check the step down setting on the v bit tool reduce it to say .1
Also if you are doing an end grain inlay you should be ok with a pass at .2 if you reduce the feed speed to 30-40 inch/min
@@Hinkleshop
The v bit seems to be ok. It’s the roughing pass that makes me nervous. The bit plunges to deep. Step down is at .03,,,, but it plunges the whole tip of the 1/16 bit. It only has a 1/4” depth of cut tip.
OK, then reduce the step down on the roughing bit and generate two tool paths. The first tool path finish depth would be .1 the second tool path finish depth would be .2 that will reduce the amount of material being removed the time
Also adjust the start depth on the second tool path where you left off on the first path. .1
@@Hinkleshop
OK, I will try that. Thank you so much for your time.
Thank you! Very thorough.
Thanks for watching! Hope it helps you
Seems like my bit is going to break if I use a .2 start depth. What am I missing?
Hey John check your speed should running about 30 inch per minute
@@Hinkleshop I was testing it out on mdf. I was running 40 ipm at 12000 rpms and the bit did break. Is it because mdf behaves different than endgrain on a cut like this?
I would agree with that MDF is soft however I believe end grain has greater flexibility or movement while carving
I feel that the fibers sever and move out of the way at a quicker rate
Again that’s only a theory
I will say I’ve not tried an inlay on MDF and I’ve haven’t had an issue with bit breakage on end grain
Please keep me informed on your findings and progress
Nice tutorial, thanks
Thank you for watching
Well done! Thanks a bunch!
Thanks for watching! And thank you for the comment
Great tutorial!
Thank you!!