Thank you Howard. With your instruction videos and a few others on the TUBE, I am getting more comfortable on what type of operating system to go with for my own projects. I believe VCARVE is going to work out fine for me as opposed to some of the others I have watched videos on. A NEWBIE here, waiting for machine to be built (ONEFINITY) but want to get a head start on the programming.
Great video tutorial! I am a new Avid CNC user, and have been looking at doing some inlays. There are quite a few other good videos on setting up inlays in Vectric but not many that show the whole process including the actual cutting on the CNC machine. Thanks and keep up the good work!
Thank you very much for this video. I just purchased a CNC machine with having no previous experience so I really appreciate your instruction with this.
Thanks for the help! From personal experience, I would increase the passes to save your tools from dulling quicker when taking out material. I would as well when referencing the tool make sure the light shows up on the mach loader tapping it on the bit to make sure it's seeing it on the screen so it doesn't destroy the metal plate when referencing.
Great explanation, very detailed. Beautiful end product. Had a few thoughts, even the individual male & female carves would have looked great on their own, after slicing off the male insert. Instead of Flattening & sanding smooth. V-Carve very lightly so the inlay had a raised 3D effect relief. BTW. Amazing how agressive your CNC router is, that looked 1/2" single pass with 1/4" bit and blistering fast too !! About 10x as much as my 500w spindle can handle !!
Sounds like a great idea, I started reading your comment and was thinking here is another jerkoff but I take it back. Have you tried the method you suggested yet?
Beautifully made Howard. Even the male VCarve segment alone looked fabulous. But I've just had an idea that could enhance this even more. Spray the male piece after carving with paint or ink stain, glue & press both halves, after sawing & sanding, the male inlay should have a thin colour band line around all segments and make it look like a 3 piece inlay!
Hola estimado, Soy del Sur de Chile, me inicio recién con esto de CNC y agradezco que usted nos enseñe sus técnicas. Hermoso trabajo 😍 quiero algún día saber lo que usted sabe y tener un taller como el suyo. Nuevamente gracias por compartir sus trabajos. Saludos, Rodrigo
How can you do variable depths; if you wanted the bird to have curve or pop out in multiple directions? So you can do half of one side and half of the other; glue them together to make a lifelike bird 🦅 Thanks
Very useful video. Thanks. Have you ever thought about making a video on how you set up the laser cross hairs for locating? That's something a lot of people would like to have.
Howard, new sub! Followed you instructions and used the same inlay trace and I'm happy to say that it worked 1st try! 123 or should i say 3 2 1 Thanks so much for the video - please keep posting ! Tom
Great step by step instruction. thank you. I am getting caught up on the Clearing Toolpath. My 1/4 endmill seems to try and cut all the way through the 0.5 inch stock in one fell swoop. Not sure why as I set start depth at 0.2 and flat depth at 0.1. Anyhoo, I am sure I will figure it out. Part of the process I guess.
@@billsmith8306 Thank you. It was actually a stupid mistake on my part. I didn’t have the bit fully inserted into the router and it loosened and begin to lower it’s cutting depth. Rookie mistake and now I rectified and have run a successful test.
This was the first time I seen this inlay done on a Cnc , just have to say that was pretty cool . I might try one this weekend for the sake of just doing it .
that was great, thank you for all the info. I will try your 321 methods, I have been having trouble with my inlays lately. I have been successful with 60-degree bits but recently I have been trying to use 15 deg to get get more detail and have failed miserably.
Thank you so very much for such a perfect tutorial. I made a terrible mistake on the rear of a large cutting board and will hopefully be able to salvage it by doing an inlay. Your technique gives me the confidence to try. I would be interested in knowing what that sanding brush was that you used, it seemed to do a great job and do so very quickly. I just subscribed to your channel and will be watching more of your videos soon. Thank you again!
I am glad you liked it. I watch a lot of videos that skip over key points. I try to make mine detailed enough that a woodworker can reproduce the results 1st time out.
Howard, thank you for sharing. Your master woodworking expertise coupled with your smooth thoughtful delivery is compelling. Utilizing the ratios on the 90 degree vbit will the ratios hold at 45 & 60?
They Should work. You had asked about my expertise in woodworking. For the CNC I got mine a little over 2 years ago. New absolutely nothing about Gcode or anything associated with CNC machines with the exception I wanted one real bad. General woodworking is my hobby which I started when I was 50 years old, I thought I needed a hobby. Turns out my hobby for the first 7 years was tool buying. Out of sheer embarrassment and my wife prodding I had to start building things. Early days all learned from Norm on New Yankee Workshop. Now there isn't anything you can't find on youtube.
Great video, and to date this is the only method that works for me thanks heaps. i have a problem doing the male plug, i cant find a way of taking the vbit down in stages everytime i use soft wood its breaking off thin walled areas. Is there a way around this. ?
Howard, What a fantastic tutorial. I am new at this CNC stuff and this really helped out. I super excited to start on a new project tomorrow morning. I will let you know how it turns out. Two quick questions. 1. What was the name of the website to get the graphic art? 2. Would you mind sharing the feed and speed for the tool pathing? Thanks again for the tutorial, Ben
@@thewoodmaster Thanks for getting back to me. I'm using a Axiom Elite AR8 machine. Also using Aspire 10.5 ( latest version). I was really interested in the .25 end mill.(depth of cut ?, ipm ?, I usually cut at 18000 rpm). Also what type of wood did you use for your demo? I subscribed to your channel and look forward to seeing more from you.
Howard, I like the 3 2 1 method. I've cut the depth in half like a lot of people do, but I get a hollow sound if you tap in the top. I think there is too much space under the inlay. This way seems to be much better.
Fantastic! That’s a really pretty piece. As a newbie, I have two questions: 1. Was that a wire brush on your drill that you used to clean up the male part after carving? 2. Also on the male piece: you hogged out a lot of material on the clearing pass. Would offsetting the bird by a bit, say .25” then clearing only that area have made more sense? The rest could’ve been trimmed on the bandsaw. The only reason I can think of for doing it your way was to have two 5” pieces to glue together. Thanks. I’ve subscribed!
Great tutorial. The only one ive been able to follow that i can get to work for me. 1 question tho.... how do i stop the vbit i use from plunging down to its full cutting depth when im doing the male part. Seems its overriding whatever cut depth increments i program in. Knocking my huon pine around a bit.
“ click on “edit” on the tool selection, halfway down under Cutting Parameters, you’ll see Pass Depth. That’s where you can limit the depth of each pass. Good luck“ That was in a different post if you scroll up.
Howard, thanks for making this video. Very helpful. I still need to wrap my head around the depth of cut but I'll watch it a couple more times to really absorb that. In the mean time, what is the oil finish you use at the very end? It looks like it might have some wax in it. Thanks, Paul
Loved the video. I am going to follow step by step. Can’t wait to try this project this week. Very informative, you are using the same software that I use so when your little picture video of you is down in the corner is blocking a couple of the boxes on the settings. But since were using the same software I know what they are so it’s no big deal. Very informative great information wonderful step-by-step instructions.I subscribe do you and I will be watching all of your videos
Thanks, I am now aware that the picture in picture was covering some of the settings. I have made a mental note to avoid this in the future. Let me know how your inlay turns out.
so we don't need to use the inlay toolpath then ? I've never done an inlay yet, but have noticed that people aren't using it. I only see it used on vcarve tutorials. Thank you for the video and the cheat sheet. Also another thought came while watching, and that's ,that the inlay toolpath has no clearance option. A little confused. I'm sure I can just do it your way. I have v carve pro 11.506
You do not use the inlay tool for vcarve inlays. The advantage of vcarve inlays is the ability to get very fine details. If you do an inlay with the inlay tool, you are limited by the diameter of your bit.
Quarton Laser Module VLM-650-29 LPT Red Cross Line Laser Module (Line-Width optimize at Short Distance) www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BP42YMW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Battery Holder with On Off Switch Cap Lead Wires (for AA 4 CELL) www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C5J4J78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I watched your video multiple times and tried processing an image I choose from a google image I found. It took me several times to figure it out. I have done several 3D Carves so far, but no Inlays yet. I need to learn this really bad, your video was very helpful and I thank you. I had some difficulties with some parts of your tutorial, but I got it in the end. If I have time tomorrow I will try my processes file, and I will try to post a picture of my project. Thanks again.
You are not having “trouble with his tutorials” you just literally don’t know what you are doing cus you are learning and that’s ok but call it what it is don’t blame this man.
@@chrisreynolds2410 I haven’t had much shop time lately since my last attempt on making an inlay. So I sort of put it aside for now. I will try it again at a later time.
Everything works fine until I get to the male inlay. I begin with the CLEAR bit and have tried both 1/8" and 1/4". I have broken them both almost immediately (I'm cutting Cherry). Should I begin with the V-carve. I notice that the CLEAR plunges straight in so they bits are breaking when they begin to move horizontally. I don't see any reference to feeds and speeds in the video. Any help in gaining the necessary understanding would be most appreciated. Thanks.
Thanks for the great tutorial. I designed my own logo and tried it on scrap wood and it came out perfectly. Then when I did several of my actual project none of them filled all of the female vcarve. I wonder how the size of the project or the amount of tight turns or the angle of the v bit change the results. Also since there is a tool change with the clearance bit if the Z depth might be slightly off. Any way great tutorial.
Can you send me a picture showing what went wrong? It shouldn't matter the size of the workpiece if all the figures are figured correctly. you did remember to flip the vectors for the male side? Anyway, PM me what you did and I will try to give you an answer.
@@thewoodmaster I am pretty ignorant about social media so I don't know how to send pictures on youtube. I make cutting boards for friends and the Christmas Bazaar. The boards were flattened by thickness planer then the female part was cut out. Yes I did flip the image to make the male part. I don' have a touch plate so the Z depth may be my problem. I assume if the female is slightly too deep that may cause the slight gap around the inlay. Also I wonder if my router is dead straight causing the X and Y axis to be off slightly. Thanks again for replying.
Very informative. Thank you. On your next video, could you please eliminate the box in the lower right corner showing you doing the work? It is blocking some of the settings while you work. Just a suggestion.
Well done. You answered two of my three questions about inlays. (Your V bit would have taken care of that tail extension, but still good that you showed an alternate method.) You might add a note about wood type selection - notice the splitting off of edges - could remove a slice one wished to keep. How do I get to the actual cheat sheet? What was that “offset?” Have to listen again! I need to get on the ShopBot forum to get pertinent info for my PRS Alpha for that laser... Thank you, sir.
Howard, great video. Suggestion, when deleting unwanted vectors, just highlight them and hit the delete key on your computer. When you "cut" them, they end up on a clipboard as if you were going to paste them elsewhere.
@@chrisreynolds2410 It's a virtual memory space on the computer, you don't have to clear it out. The next thing you 'cut' or 'copy' will overwrite it. This isn't actually a concern, cutting to delete something is fine to do and causes no problems.
Here is the link for the cheat sheet. sdppminc-my.sharepoint.com/:b:/g/personal/howard_sdppm_com/ES_Ef43dMbdGkGerWwOUozcBW5zEnlYI5hYZoOw_N-_g9Q?e=RPABll
Hi Howard, followed your technique step by step, I just cut the male and while gluing it to the female part, noticed the piece felt a little bit too loose when inserted to the female, I used the 90 degree with 1-1/2" diameter bit, should I have used a different bit with a smaller diameter for this? I used the same bit for both though female and male though
Mr. Boehm: I've attempted one V Carve inlay and it came out very nice. I tried a second and it didn't come out so nice. I'm wondering if I could send my VCarve File to you and get your feed back as to what I need to do to make this work? Thanks, Mark
I'm following your tutorial exactly. I'm exporting the g-code and using it with Easel. When using the clearance tool, it immediately plunges .2" and overloads the router. How can I program it to take multiple passes with the clearing tool?
@@mikethompson9013 click on “edit” on the tool selection, halfway down under Cutting Parameters, you’ll see Pass Depth. That’s where you can limit the depth of each pass. Good luck!
The video shows a “start depth” of .2” and a flat depth of .1”. This setting snapped a 1/4” end mill on a piece of black walnut (18,000 rpm, 100 IPM) When I used a softer wood, it burned the wood. I have set it to a starting depth of 0.0” with a flat depth of 0.2” and will try again later.
@@BPWhitman Set your plunge rate in your setting for the bit you are using to a low number so it does not try to plow into the wood as it is moving down through the Z axis. Also, feed rate depends on the horsepower of your router and your machine. Slow your feed rate down and then move it up as you get more experience. Spindle speed 20K for hardwood with carbide bit for hard woods and 16K for pine is a start. This is all machine dependent, so no guarantee. In addition, it is best to use a ramp if you are doing clearing where the bit will ramp into the piece to get to its flat depth rather than plunge it quickly into the wood.
Attempting to replicate this has been a headache....the male inlay part anyway. I'm using a 3 flute .25 end-mill for the clearing bit and a 60° Vbit for everything else. The problem I have is when the .25 end-mill attempts to do the clearing, it seems to be trying to cut everything in one shot instead of stepping down. My machine does not like this. I noticed in your video that you don't have step down either but yet it miraculously hogs away the material like butter. The best I can do is try to slow the feed down but I'm open to suggestions or alternatives. Great tutorial otherwise! I've learned a lot!
@@thewoodmaster that's the problem...vcarve seems to ignore pass depth. Maybe there's a better software available. Either way, thanks again for the tutorial!
@@vampyrew0lf vcarve doesn’t ignore pass depth, so there must be something wrong with the way it’s translating to G code or with the way the CNC is reading it.
@@jameshingle5449 I did...sort of. To get to the final depth of .2, I created a tool path with the same geometry but only to a depth of .1. Then I created the tool path for the .2 depth. There is a fair amount of air cutting but it works out in the end.
I have a Nextwave shark 510 I would like to know where to buy the laser cross hairs that you use in this video for my machine. Thanking you in advance for your assistance.
Thanks, I watched the video and have ordered the items needed. Can you help me program the crosshair off set into my Ready 2 Control-Virtual(Home) software. I have a Next Wave Shark 510. Thanks once again.
Is that an Iowa inlay!! Newbie question here, looking to get into this. Does this output to gcode and would this be compatible with the sainsmart geminitsu cnc?
I don't know what I'm missing, but what do you change/select differently from the male and female versions? I get the creation of the new layer, I get the mirroring, but it looks like you're selecting the same v-carve option for both? Not sure what I'm missing...
I have tried to do this with a 5/8 90 degree v bit and a 1/4 end mill and my previews dont work out i get the female down but doing the male portion it becomes all messed up
I have been working on a V carve inlay for nearly 3 months. Have watched a number of videos, talked with many people, and still can't get this thing to work. I'm on the verge of giving up. Any way to get some help with this?
When you bring in the clearance tool, you can edit the tool under cutting parameters and change the setting for pass depth there. For example, if you need a clearance of .30, you could set the pass depth of the tool to .10, and it will make the cut in 3 passes.
@@thewoodmaster I'm not sure that will solve the Male carve plunge depth issue that I think Lee is describing. Vectric assumes that anything above the "Start Depth (D)" is effectively already carved and that there is nothing there but in actuality it does exist and your bit has to carve it. If you changed your pass depth to 0.1" then your bit would plunge to 0.3" (0.2" Start Depth + 0.1" carve-out) and it would make a single 0.3" pass (again, Vectric thinks it is doing a 0.1" pass). I tried this and that's exactly how it works. Is there a way to take what is in reality a 0.3" male inlay carve with more than one pass where all 0.3" is divided equally and carved in 3 passes of 0.1" each?
At the timeline 9:59 - are the Start Depth and Flat Depth values reverse? I only ask as it seems the tutorial at the following link indicates the opposite for these items. www.vectric.org/video/aspire4-vcp7/2d-25d-techniques/D07/VCarve_Inlay_Description_and_Procedure.pdf
I must have skipped a step because rather than raised flat of the male fitting into the deepest part of the female, the raised part of the male seems to just line up with the outside of the female and then only gets wider from there. Almost feels like I missed a step that said "this is the inner part"
@@thewoodmaster I figured out the cause of the problem. I was trying to figure out what was wrong, switched bits, did a whole bunch of searching and ran across a pdf (which I had read before) on vcarve inlays. There was a comment there that said the depth of the groove can't exceed the bit depth. Since I was originally using a 0.25" bit (which means it can only cut 0.125" deep), the 0.3" settings are clearly too big. I noticed this when I switched to a 0.375" bit, there was still a "vertical part" at the top of the male, and that vertical part was because the cutter just didn't reach. So I switched settings from 0.1" 0.2" 0.3" to 0.0625", 0.125", 0.1875" (which correspond to the max depth of a 0.375"), and it seems to work. The only question is, why doesn't VCarve / Aspire allow for depths bigger than the bit size through multiple passes? It should know the max depth given the diameter, angle, and fact that it is a V bit... Unless I can figure out how to make multiple passes, my choices are to get bigger bits or to limit my total inlay depths to 0.1875 or less.
Here is the link to the cheat sheet sdppminc-my.sharepoint.com/:b:/g/personal/howard_sdppm_com/EdNcv2wns6JMo57ToZUVyIUB4LHwQ_IAGmkd646PkCKihA?e=3lEY5b
Thank you, it my pleasure
Newbie Onefinity CNC owner and Vectric user here. Thank you for this excellent tutorial!
I'm continuously amazed at how detailed these can be considering the size and angle of the bit.
Just bought a CNC machine, looking forward to creating beautiful inlay pieces. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
You helped explain something that had been confusing me for a while. Many thanks and thanks for the cheat sheet. Legend!
Thank you Howard. With your instruction videos and a few others on the TUBE, I am getting more comfortable on what type of operating system to go with for my own projects. I believe VCARVE is going to work out fine for me as opposed to some of the others I have watched videos on. A NEWBIE here, waiting for machine to be built (ONEFINITY) but want to get a head start on the programming.
Great video Howard, this is the easiest instructions I've seen so far! I'm new even though I'm old. Keep them coming.
I totally agree. New at CNC machine stuff over 70 trying to learn. Old dogs are hard to train.
Great video tutorial! I am a new Avid CNC user, and have been looking at doing some inlays. There are quite a few other good videos on setting up inlays in Vectric but not many that show the whole process including the actual cutting on the CNC machine.
Thanks and keep up the good work!
When you do your first inlay please post it so we can see your results.
Can I also suggest a separate channel where the guy is just as detailed as you that folks might appreciate?
Thank you very much for this video. I just purchased a CNC machine with having no previous experience so I really appreciate your instruction with this.
Thanks for the help! From personal experience, I would increase the passes to save your tools from dulling quicker when taking out material. I would as well when referencing the tool make sure the light shows up on the mach loader tapping it on the bit to make sure it's seeing it on the screen so it doesn't destroy the metal plate when referencing.
Perfect video, instructive, clear, easy to understand. I subscribed right away. Thanks a lot and many greetings from Czech Republic.
Great explanation, very detailed. Beautiful end product.
Had a few thoughts, even the individual male & female carves would have looked great on their own, after slicing off the male insert. Instead of Flattening & sanding smooth. V-Carve very lightly so the inlay had a raised 3D effect relief.
BTW. Amazing how agressive your CNC router is, that looked 1/2" single pass with 1/4" bit and blistering fast too !! About 10x as much as my 500w spindle can handle !!
Sounds like a great idea, I started reading your comment and was thinking here is another jerkoff but I take it back.
Have you tried the method you suggested yet?
@@chrisreynolds2410 Not tried it, just visualised from the glimpse of the cut off inlay, looked right for a white raised V
Beautifully made Howard. Even the male VCarve segment alone looked fabulous. But I've just had an idea that could enhance this even more.
Spray the male piece after carving with paint or ink stain, glue & press both halves, after sawing & sanding, the male inlay should have a thin colour band line around all segments and make it look like a 3 piece inlay!
I like that,worth a try
Hola estimado,
Soy del Sur de Chile, me inicio recién con esto de CNC y agradezco que usted nos enseñe sus técnicas.
Hermoso trabajo 😍 quiero algún día saber lo que usted sabe y tener un taller como el suyo.
Nuevamente gracias por compartir sus trabajos.
Saludos, Rodrigo
De nada
How can you do variable depths; if you wanted the bird to have curve or pop out in multiple directions? So you can do half of one side and half of the other; glue them together to make a lifelike bird 🦅 Thanks
Thanks good tutorial. Nice to see the safe way of band sawing small sections.😊
Very useful video. Thanks. Have you ever thought about making a video on how you set up the laser cross hairs for locating? That's something a lot of people would like to have.
I have a video for that. ua-cam.com/video/NOvuow4lnus/v-deo.html
Howard, new sub! Followed you instructions and used the same inlay trace and I'm happy to say that it worked 1st try! 123 or should i say 3 2 1
Thanks so much for the video - please keep posting ! Tom
Awsome video thank you for taking your time and showing in detail all your steps from start to finish very good video
Great step by step instruction. thank you. I am getting caught up on the Clearing Toolpath. My 1/4 endmill seems to try and cut all the way through the 0.5 inch stock in one fell swoop. Not sure why as I set start depth at 0.2 and flat depth at 0.1. Anyhoo, I am sure I will figure it out. Part of the process I guess.
Sounds as if you may not have set your "Material Thickness" to .5" in the job setup. Take a look. I could be wrong. Hope this helps.
@@billsmith8306 Thank you. It was actually a stupid mistake on my part. I didn’t have the bit fully inserted into the router and it loosened and begin to lower it’s cutting depth. Rookie mistake and now I rectified and have run a successful test.
This was the first time I seen this inlay done on a Cnc , just have to say that was pretty cool . I might try one this weekend for the sake of just doing it .
Hey Howard - excellent presenting skills! I look forward to going through your other videos.
that was great, thank you for all the info. I will try your 321 methods, I have been having trouble with my inlays lately. I have been successful with 60-degree bits but recently I have been trying to use 15 deg to get get more detail and have failed miserably.
Thank you so very much for such a perfect tutorial. I made a terrible mistake on the rear of a large cutting board and will hopefully be able to salvage it by doing an inlay. Your technique gives me the confidence to try. I would be interested in knowing what that sanding brush was that you used, it seemed to do a great job and do so very quickly. I just subscribed to your channel and will be watching more of your videos soon. Thank you again!
Here is the link to the sanding brush on amazon
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P1TGXB6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1THAZDOWP300U&psc=1
Howard, thank you for the wonderful tuitorial. I verymuch likethe structuredsimplicity. Will beaterrificaddition to my toolbox of skill.
I am glad you liked it. I watch a lot of videos that skip over key points. I try to make mine detailed enough that a woodworker can reproduce the results 1st time out.
Outstanding Howard. This helps me a bunch! Thanks!
Howard, thank you for sharing. Your master woodworking expertise coupled with your smooth thoughtful delivery is compelling. Utilizing the ratios on the 90 degree vbit will the ratios hold at 45 & 60?
They Should work. You had asked about my expertise in woodworking. For the CNC I got mine a little over 2 years ago. New absolutely nothing about Gcode or anything associated with CNC machines with the exception I wanted one real bad. General woodworking is my hobby which I started when I was 50 years old, I thought I needed a hobby. Turns out my hobby for the first 7 years was tool buying. Out of sheer embarrassment and my wife prodding I had to start building things. Early days all learned from Norm on New Yankee Workshop. Now there isn't anything you can't find on youtube.
Great video, and to date this is the only method that works for me thanks heaps. i have a problem doing the male plug, i cant find a way of taking the vbit down in stages everytime i use soft wood its breaking off thin walled areas. Is there a way around this. ?
In the tool parameters you can set how much of a cut the tool can make
Howard,
What a fantastic tutorial. I am new at this CNC stuff and this really helped out. I super excited to start on a new project tomorrow morning. I will let you know how it turns out. Two quick questions.
1. What was the name of the website to get the graphic art?
2. Would you mind sharing the feed and speed for the tool pathing?
Thanks again for the tutorial,
Ben
Do a search on GOOGLE Images with the keyword TRIBAL ART
Feeds and speeds will differ based on your setup so my will not help you.
@@thewoodmaster Thanks for getting back to me. I'm using a Axiom Elite AR8 machine. Also using Aspire 10.5 ( latest version). I was really interested in the .25 end mill.(depth of cut ?, ipm ?, I usually cut at 18000 rpm). Also what type of wood did you use for your demo? I subscribed to your channel and look forward to seeing more from you.
@@benwarren9257 Feed rate was 100 ipm and the pass depth was .125
@@thewoodmaster Thanks for the information.
Wonderful overview and just the right pace. Where is the source of line art that you mention? What 2 woods are you using in this example? Thanks!
you can find the art by going to google search and type in "Tribal Art" the wood was maple and mahogany
Howard, I like the 3 2 1 method. I've cut the depth in half like a lot of people do, but I get a hollow sound if you tap in the top. I think there is too much space under the inlay. This way seems to be much better.
Always wanted to try one, thank you for laying lot out for me
Fantastic! That’s a really pretty piece. As a newbie, I have two questions:
1. Was that a wire brush on your drill that you used to clean up the male part after carving?
2. Also on the male piece: you hogged out a lot of material on the clearing pass. Would offsetting the bird by a bit, say .25” then clearing only that area have made more sense? The rest could’ve been trimmed on the bandsaw. The only reason I can think of for doing it your way was to have two 5” pieces to glue together.
Thanks. I’ve subscribed!
Yes on one and two
Great tutorial. The only one ive been able to follow that i can get to work for me. 1 question tho.... how do i stop the vbit i use from plunging down to its full cutting depth when im doing the male part. Seems its overriding whatever cut depth increments i program in. Knocking my huon pine around a bit.
Same problem here. Tears out thin pieces. Been using ebony.
@@grubsdad im gonna try slowly tge plunge rate right down. Ill let u know how it goes
“ click on “edit” on the tool selection, halfway down under Cutting Parameters, you’ll see Pass Depth. That’s where you can limit the depth of each pass. Good luck“
That was in a different post if you scroll up.
Howard, thanks for making this video. Very helpful. I still need to wrap my head around the depth of cut but I'll watch it a couple more times to really absorb that.
In the mean time, what is the oil finish you use at the very end? It looks like it might have some wax in it. Thanks, Paul
Mineral oil and bees wax heated is what I use normally. In this video I just used mineral oil
Loved the video. I am going to follow step by step. Can’t wait to try this project this week. Very informative, you are using the same software that I use so when your little picture video of you is down in the corner is blocking a couple of the boxes on the settings. But since were using the same software I know what they are so it’s no big deal. Very informative great information wonderful step-by-step instructions.I subscribe do you and I will be watching all of your videos
Thanks, I am now aware that the picture in picture was covering some of the settings. I have made a mental note to avoid this in the future. Let me know how your inlay turns out.
Great Video! I would like to know what feeds and speeds your were using. Thanks
Feed??
-Commercial grade hotdogs.
Speed?
-As fast as she can.
OMG the speed of this machine ! Also all the way down, no passes
Good explanation and example of v carve inlay technique. Are you going to add a link to your cheat sheet?
if you scroll down the comments there is a link.
so we don't need to use the inlay toolpath then ? I've never done an inlay yet, but have noticed that people aren't using it. I only see it used on vcarve tutorials. Thank you for the video and the cheat sheet. Also another thought came while watching, and that's ,that the inlay toolpath has no clearance option. A little confused. I'm sure I can just do it your way. I have v carve pro 11.506
You do not use the inlay tool for vcarve inlays. The advantage of vcarve inlays is the ability to get very fine details. If you do an inlay with the inlay tool, you are limited by the diameter of your bit.
Thanks a lot for this tuto 🙈 start this month making some projects on CNC 👌
Great video. Can you tell us the source for the laser cross hair and the clean up brush?
Quarton Laser Module VLM-650-29 LPT Red Cross Line Laser Module (Line-Width optimize at Short Distance)
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BP42YMW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Battery Holder with On Off Switch Cap Lead Wires (for AA 4 CELL)
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C5J4J78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I watched your video multiple times and tried processing an image I choose from a google image I found. It took me several times to figure it out. I have done several 3D Carves so far, but no Inlays yet. I need to learn this really bad, your video was very helpful and I thank you. I had some difficulties with some parts of your tutorial, but I got it in the end. If I have time tomorrow I will try my processes file, and I will try to post a picture of my project. Thanks again.
Good luck will love to see the result
@@thewoodmaster I'm going to try it soon. Damn night shift are hard on my shop time.
You are not having “trouble with his tutorials” you just literally don’t know what you are doing cus you are learning and that’s ok but call it what it is don’t blame this man.
Marc have you made any progress learning the method?
@@chrisreynolds2410 I haven’t had much shop time lately since my last attempt on making an inlay. So I sort of put it aside for now. I will try it again at a later time.
Very Nice... If I was to mill the excess off instead of using a band saw.. How best to know the depth of cut from the surface with the 3,2,1 rule?
measure to the middle of the gap and zero from the top and surface down to the depth you measured.
Now THAT was cool! I'll be trying this out very soon.
Thank You, let me know how yours turns out
Everything works fine until I get to the male inlay. I begin with the CLEAR bit and have tried both 1/8" and 1/4". I have broken them both almost immediately (I'm cutting Cherry). Should I begin with the V-carve. I notice that the CLEAR plunges straight in so they bits are breaking when they begin to move horizontally. I don't see any reference to feeds and speeds in the video. Any help in gaining the necessary understanding would be most appreciated. Thanks.
Check out the revised video it may solve the problem. Let me know if it does.
ua-cam.com/video/d2vK-OQO96A/v-deo.html
Your clear bit setting are in the tool database.
Here is the revised video that will solve that problem ua-cam.com/video/d2vK-OQO96A/v-deo.htmlsi=KOS_oO5oNMhk2CdG
Thanks for the great tutorial. I designed my own logo and tried it on scrap wood and it came out perfectly. Then when I did several of my actual project none of them filled all of the female vcarve. I wonder how the size of the project or the amount of tight turns or the angle of the v bit change the results. Also since there is a tool change with the clearance bit if the Z depth might be slightly off. Any way great tutorial.
Can you send me a picture showing what went wrong? It shouldn't matter the size of the workpiece if all the figures are figured correctly. you did remember to flip the vectors for the male side? Anyway, PM me what you did and I will try to give you an answer.
@@thewoodmaster I am pretty ignorant about social media so I don't know how to send pictures on youtube.
I make cutting boards for friends and the Christmas Bazaar. The boards were flattened by thickness planer then the female part was cut out. Yes I did flip the image to make the male part. I don' have a touch plate so the Z depth may be my problem. I assume if the female is slightly too deep that may cause the slight gap around the inlay. Also I wonder if my router is dead straight causing the X and Y axis to be off slightly. Thanks again for replying.
What software are you using to do the inlays? Awesome btw
Vectric Aspire.
Many thanks--this helped me with the math to do some thin shell inlays.
Excellent video, great information!
Thanks for sharing 😊
beautiful video, thank you man ... greetings from Chile!!
Very informative. Thank you. On your next video, could you please eliminate the box in the lower right corner showing you doing the work? It is blocking some of the settings while you work. Just a suggestion.
Thanks so much for the video, it worked like a charm for me!!!
It is quite graditfying when I hear that. Post a photo of what you made.
Well done. You answered two of my three questions about inlays. (Your V bit would have taken care of that tail extension, but still good that you showed an alternate method.)
You might add a note about wood type selection - notice the splitting off of edges - could remove a slice one wished to keep.
How do I get to the actual cheat sheet?
What was that “offset?” Have to listen again!
I need to get on the ShopBot forum to get pertinent info for my PRS Alpha for that laser...
Thank you, sir.
Excellent instruction video! Thank you!
Howard, great video. Suggestion, when deleting unwanted vectors, just highlight them and hit the delete key on your computer. When you "cut" them, they end up on a clipboard as if you were going to paste them elsewhere.
Thanks for the tip, learn something new every day. I never gave it a thought where they went when I hit cut.
Where is the “clipboard”?
Can we or should we delete them from there?
@@chrisreynolds2410 It's a virtual memory space on the computer, you don't have to clear it out. The next thing you 'cut' or 'copy' will overwrite it. This isn't actually a concern, cutting to delete something is fine to do and causes no problems.
Thanks
That is very cool. Thanks for sharing. Could you use a 30 degree bit or does it have to be a 90 ?
I have used a 90 Degree and a 60 degree. I am assuming it would work for a 30 Degre as well.
Enjoyed your video. What was the speed of the 1/4 end mill for cutting out the excess?
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Where can I get your cheat sheet?
Here is the link for the cheat sheet. sdppminc-my.sharepoint.com/:b:/g/personal/howard_sdppm_com/ES_Ef43dMbdGkGerWwOUozcBW5zEnlYI5hYZoOw_N-_g9Q?e=RPABll
Great video, thank you. By the way the cheat sheet link no longer works.
Hi Howard, followed your technique step by step, I just cut the male and while gluing it to the female part, noticed the piece felt a little bit too loose when inserted to the female, I used the 90 degree with 1-1/2" diameter bit, should I have used a different bit with a smaller diameter for this? I used the same bit for both though female and male though
Julio can you email me a screen shot of the setting in your vectric sofware. my email is howard@sdppm.com
Superb explanation - cheers!
So the total bottom depth of the male version is 0.3? That is with the top 0.2 being taken off? So the gap then on your male and female would be 0.2?
Mr. Boehm: I've attempted one V Carve inlay and it came out very nice. I tried a second and it didn't come out so nice. I'm wondering if I could send my VCarve File to you and get your feed back as to what I need to do to make this work? Thanks, Mark
PM your email address and I'll give you my email. I would be happy to take a look at the file.
I'm following your tutorial exactly. I'm exporting the g-code and using it with Easel. When using the clearance tool, it immediately plunges .2" and overloads the router. How can I program it to take multiple passes with the clearing tool?
You should be able to set parameters on the tool as to maximum cut depth
@@thewoodmaster where is that setting in Vcarve?
@@mikethompson9013 click on “edit” on the tool selection, halfway down under Cutting Parameters, you’ll see Pass Depth. That’s where you can limit the depth of each pass. Good luck!
The video shows a “start depth” of .2” and a flat depth of .1”. This setting snapped a 1/4” end mill on a piece of black walnut (18,000 rpm, 100 IPM) When I used a softer wood, it burned the wood. I have set it to a starting depth of 0.0” with a flat depth of 0.2” and will try again later.
@@BPWhitman Set your plunge rate in your setting for the bit you are using to a low number so it does not try to plow into the wood as it is moving down through the Z axis. Also, feed rate depends on the horsepower of your router and your machine. Slow your feed rate down and then move it up as you get more experience. Spindle speed 20K for hardwood with carbide bit for hard woods and 16K for pine is a start. This is all machine dependent, so no guarantee. In addition, it is best to use a ramp if you are doing clearing where the bit will ramp into the piece to get to its flat depth rather than plunge it quickly into the wood.
Attempting to replicate this has been a headache....the male inlay part anyway.
I'm using a 3 flute .25 end-mill for the clearing bit and a 60° Vbit for everything else. The problem I have is when the .25 end-mill attempts to do the clearing, it seems to be trying to cut everything in one shot instead of stepping down. My machine does not like this. I noticed in your video that you don't have step down either but yet it miraculously hogs away the material like butter. The best I can do is try to slow the feed down but I'm open to suggestions or alternatives.
Great tutorial otherwise! I've learned a lot!
Check your tool parameters. There you can set pass depth. On my machine I cat it in one pass but it depends on the machine.
@@thewoodmaster that's the problem...vcarve seems to ignore pass depth. Maybe there's a better software available. Either way, thanks again for the tutorial!
@@vampyrew0lf vcarve doesn’t ignore pass depth, so there must be something wrong with the way it’s translating to G code or with the way the CNC is reading it.
i have the same problem. did u find the solution?
@@jameshingle5449 I did...sort of.
To get to the final depth of .2, I created a tool path with the same geometry but only to a depth of .1. Then I created the tool path for the .2 depth. There is a fair amount of air cutting but it works out in the end.
Great video, thanks. What finish did you use?
I use a water based gloss called Master Armor.
Also there is a new revised video on this.
awsome video, really explains the technique well. But I can't find the cheat sheet!
Hello there. Are you able to send a new link for the cheat sheet - the ones shown here no longer seem to work. Thank you so much!!!
sdppminc-my.sharepoint.com/:b:/g/personal/howard_sdppm_com/EdNcv2wns6JMo57ToZUVyIUB4LHwQ_IAGmkd646PkCKihA?e=3lEY5b
I have a Nextwave shark 510 I would like to know where to buy the laser cross hairs that you use in this video for my machine. Thanking you in advance for your assistance.
Check out the video I did and the notes have the links . ua-cam.com/video/8m_K9WfCiEY/v-deo.html
Thanks, I watched the video and have ordered the items needed. Can you help me program the crosshair off set into my Ready 2 Control-Virtual(Home) software. I have a Next Wave Shark 510. Thanks once again.
Do you like the laser still how’s it working out?
Instead of doing 0.3, 0.2 and 0.1 for depth of cut parameters, why can't you do the Male toolpath as 0.0 and 0.3?? Isn't that the same thing?
this was a great overview, thank you (the clamp you used was a bar clamp, not a C clamp)
you are correct they are bar clamps
Thank you for explaining.
Thank you Howard, excellent
Is this method good for cutting boards or will it leave a hollow space under the inlay? Thanks
The space is in the thousandths. I cut one of the inlays in half to see and you can not see a gap.
Is that an Iowa inlay!! Newbie question here, looking to get into this. Does this output to gcode and would this be compatible with the sainsmart geminitsu cnc?
Great how to video.....thanks
Would you mind sharing a link to the brush you attached to your drill please :) to clean
thanks
Its in the notes attached to the video.
I don't know what I'm missing, but what do you change/select differently from the male and female versions? I get the creation of the new layer, I get the mirroring, but it looks like you're selecting the same v-carve option for both? Not sure what I'm missing...
The main difference is the male image is fliped 180 degrees and you put a border around the edge and that is what makes it clear out the wood.
@@thewoodmaster Ah! The Border! Ok I thought that was just to limit the amount of cutting to reduce wear on the bit. Ok thanks!
Thanks for the great video!
Very good tutorial thanks for that
Can you tell me where you found this bird? I have trouble finding any thing suitable to use as an inlay.
Do a search on Google Images under Trible Art.
I wasn’t able to clearly hear where you get your art work from. Is there a link ??
Google Search for Tribal Art. Look for Black and white images.
I have tried to do this with a 5/8 90 degree v bit and a 1/4 end mill and my previews dont work out i get the female down but doing the male portion it becomes all messed up
Pm me a photo of what it looks like. On the male part did you have a vector around everything?
@@thewoodmaster i figured it out thank you
@@ryanharrison3209 post what you did it may help someone else that is having a problem
Great stuff. Thanks!
I have been working on a V carve inlay for nearly 3 months. Have watched a number of videos, talked with many people, and still can't get this thing to work. I'm on the verge of giving up. Any way to get some help with this?
Message me your ph# and I will give you a call. glad to help
had an "issue" ......when i used the 1/4" clearing bit, it plunges to the bottom right away with no way to adjust the pass depth.
When you bring in the clearance tool, you can edit the tool under cutting parameters and change the setting for pass depth there. For example, if you need a clearance of .30, you could set the pass depth of the tool to .10, and it will make the cut in 3 passes.
@@thewoodmaster I'm not sure that will solve the Male carve plunge depth issue that I think Lee is describing. Vectric assumes that anything above the "Start Depth (D)" is effectively already carved and that there is nothing there but in actuality it does exist and your bit has to carve it. If you changed your pass depth to 0.1" then your bit would plunge to 0.3" (0.2" Start Depth + 0.1" carve-out) and it would make a single 0.3" pass (again, Vectric thinks it is doing a 0.1" pass). I tried this and that's exactly how it works. Is there a way to take what is in reality a 0.3" male inlay carve with more than one pass where all 0.3" is divided equally and carved in 3 passes of 0.1" each?
I figured out a way to fix that. Will have it out in a video by Monday
@@brentovercash9018 I figured it out, watch the new video. ua-cam.com/video/d2vK-OQO96A/v-deo.html
Just saw the revised vid - awesome and an excellent option to make that male start depth easier on the tool. thank you!!!
Super erklärt. Vielen Dank!
What kind of wood was the bird made of?
Maple
Do I have to use a different program to do raised carving.....
Not sure what you mean. Of course, you use the same software but you will export two different files for the cuts.
At the timeline 9:59 - are the Start Depth and Flat Depth values reverse? I only ask as it seems the tutorial at the following link indicates the opposite for these items. www.vectric.org/video/aspire4-vcp7/2d-25d-techniques/D07/VCarve_Inlay_Description_and_Procedure.pdf
It is correct the way it is shown.
Awesome
It looks like the link to the cheat-sheet has expired or taken down? Is there a way to get it from you? Thanks!
Click on the More Tab and at the bottom is a link to the cheat sheet
Hi Howard - what CNC machine do you have?
Avid CNC Desktop Pro 2436
@@thewoodmaster Had the machine long? Like it?
@@MondoRockable I love it, rock solid and heavy duty.
The title is VCarve but it looks like Aspire. Can I do this in VCarve? VCarve doesn't seem to recognize my .jpg's or .bmp's
it will work in Vcarve.
Where can I find the file of the bird you used in the video?
Go to google search and look for Tribal art.
Okay, thanks!
How do you tell software to do male vs female carve?.
You save your toolpath separately for the male side and the female side.
Thanks for sharing.
I must have skipped a step because rather than raised flat of the male fitting into the deepest part of the female, the raised part of the male seems to just line up with the outside of the female and then only gets wider from there. Almost feels like I missed a step that said "this is the inner part"
PM me and I will give you my email and if you want to send me a shot of your settings I can probably tell you where it went wrong.
@@thewoodmaster I wish I could, but I don't see an option any more to send messages through youtube. did they get rid of that feature?
Click on my channel and they click about. My email address is there. It was not enabled.
@@thewoodmaster I figured out the cause of the problem. I was trying to figure out what was wrong, switched bits, did a whole bunch of searching and ran across a pdf (which I had read before) on vcarve inlays. There was a comment there that said the depth of the groove can't exceed the bit depth. Since I was originally using a 0.25" bit (which means it can only cut 0.125" deep), the 0.3" settings are clearly too big. I noticed this when I switched to a 0.375" bit, there was still a "vertical part" at the top of the male, and that vertical part was because the cutter just didn't reach. So I switched settings from 0.1" 0.2" 0.3" to 0.0625", 0.125", 0.1875" (which correspond to the max depth of a 0.375"), and it seems to work.
The only question is, why doesn't VCarve / Aspire allow for depths bigger than the bit size through multiple passes? It should know the max depth given the diameter, angle, and fact that it is a V bit...
Unless I can figure out how to make multiple passes, my choices are to get bigger bits or to limit my total inlay depths to 0.1875 or less.
where can i find graphic you are using?
google images, search tribal art