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This is great! I’m working on a piece where the entire piece if a 1.5” circles with a logo inlaid. I’m doing my clearance passes and cutouts with a 1/16” bit… I had been doing the inlay tool paths with a 30 degree Amana, but I can already tell by looking at the Vectric preview that this is going to work better for this super small design. …also, it appears we have the same jointer AND table saw… subbed.
Great Video, but just wondering if there was a reason that you couldn't set your start depth at 2 and set the full DOC at 9 and adjust the pass depths in the tool path,instead of creating 3 different tool paths? Also if you group toolpaths when saving the should group those different passes together for the same tool.
I guess you could. The reason I started this way was because the software I was using. I could not adjust the passes. So at this point I can create a tool path just as fast as I could go in and adjust the passes.
Really helpful video Greg, thank you! Like a lot of people I've been a bit disappointed with Vectrics new Vcarve Inlay feature in Version 12. I've been looking for a good guide on the "old" way of doing a vcarve inlay. I've one question though, if I was to choose to skip the 1st two toolpaths and do a full 9mm cut instead of "creeping" up on it what do you think the implications would be? You mention in the video it cuts down on chipout but I've seen many tube videos where the TBN cuts straight in, in one pass? Thank you again!
It does cut well but I would still do it for that reason. As far as vetric and the new tool path, it works well for your more shallow inlays. It is new so you may have to give them a little to get the bugs worked out
Wouldn't you get the same stepping down in stages affect that you are getting with the multiple tool paths by setting the path depth on the tools to the 2mm (0.08 in)?
@@johnl8006 I think the reason why he is doing it this way is because rhe v carve toolpath doesn't have the multiple passes option. I might be mistaken though, would love to get a definitive answer as well
If you use a 1/16 tapered ball nose, I would think that you would have to make sure all the vectors have no radii less that 1/32” otherwise the male will not match the female exactly
Sir the information in this video was extremely valuable for me. Thank you so much. I have the same set up as you in regards to CNC and software. How did you get Carbide motion to recognize tool changes from Vectric? Subscribed!
Thank you. When you export the gcode you select the post possessor as carbide motion and everything is available just like using carbide create. It will come over and request a tool change and tell you which tool # to change to and will reset using the bitsetter.
Wondering if you can help me out. Followed the depth of cuts for a two part inlay. One mountain scene in walnut that came out good with the settings (though I needed to tap it in a bit more in one part and have a small gap as a result. Nothing some glue and sawdust won't take care of) but the second inlay is a compass with N, W, E lettering. Parts of the compass tips and smaller section of lettering didn't cut as deep in the female said as the cutout for the male. I used 1/8" clearance and the tapered Jenny bit for both. Wondering if I just needed smaller than a 1/8" for a second clearance? Tapered Jenny just didn't seem to get as deep. First attempt at an inlay here, so still figuring this out!
If it is that small of detail you could do a small test cut to see if maybe a 1/16th bit might work. I would be happy to look at the file for you if you would like.
Thanks. Love your videos! Question, I noticed you kept your Tbn bit as a tbn bit in the tool database settings. I have seen other people Change the tbn to a vbit and double the angle. Do you find you don’t have to change the bit in the tool database? Thanks! Chris
@@chrispelletier3661 they do that if they want to use version 12’s built in carve inlay tool. Otherwise they do the “traditional” method that this video explains.
I think it does with less tear out. I have not actually tried one with the new toolpath and I honestly don't know that I will LOL. I've had such good success I don't see any reason to change.
Great and detailed video. Question - I too group tool paths in Vectric when possible but save them in chunks based on the bit. You just saved them all together. When the CNC machine is done with tool #1 (running all three passes), does it return to the origin point and wait for you to do the tool change, allowing you to resume and move on to step two? I use GSender and can't imagine that.... thanks, Sir!
Yes it does. I use carbide motion and when it is done with a tool it will come to the front to allow the change and then it uses the bit setter to measure the bit I changed to and then runs the next path.
Nice informative video. The tapered bits seem to be the way to go, especially for cutting boards. Using a 60 degree with the depth of cuts Vectric uses is ok for a wall hanging inlay or something not going to be chopped on and resurfaced. It leaves too big of a glue gap that becomes a void. And the tapered bit allows a deeper cut which equals more resurfacing. Curious about using the 2 clearance bits instead of just 1. Was there a part of the G that was too tight for the 1/4”?
I just received my bits. Do you have a recommend font to use to give a good deep inlay? My toolpath model does not appear to be deep enough with the font I chose. I can't recall which font I chose (away from my shop computer)
It really just depends on what you are going for. I try several different types to get what I need for a project. Just go by your render until you get what looks good. The bolder letters do tend to do better with deeper.
@@stlwoodworking Good morning Greg, Happy Friday! My female cut came out perfect. But one of my male pieces did not fit. As I processed the toolpath, it gave me a warning about tolerance issues and one of the bits may not cut. So of course, I pressed on and does not fit. I'll grab the screenshot of issues and send this afternoon. I need to get this project to my client by next weekend, so any help is greatly appreciated. I have no issues paying for your time as I'm sure you are a busy man. Cheers Mario
thanks for posting this video, it's always good to learn new techniques, but I do have a question for you. Is there a reason why you do 3 separate passes for each of the inlay (positive ) pieces rather than changing your pass depth of the tool so that it will only go down 3 or 3.5 mm per pass ( whatever you set the pass depth to) ? then you could run one pass but it would only go down that max depth per pass.
Yes, I understand that it doesn't chip out when you take shallow passes, I essentially do the same thing by changing the tool parameters, and that way I don't have to run 3 toolpaths. you can achieve the same thing taking 3 shallow passes with one toolpath. Thanks for the reply. I look forward to more of your videos @@stlwoodworking
I’m leaving this comment BEFORE I watch this video- I’m a CNC idiot when it comes to inlays, so let’s see just how good you are! Haha. I’m kidding. But seriously, I can’t seem to nail down the geometry of the inlay with the TBN bits… so fingers crossed!
Good luck. Pick up my set from Jennybits and that will help. also come join me over at CNC with me. I also offer a little more help to the people on my UA-cam membership...ORRR if you are in the Chattanooga area lol. I teach at Woodcraft of Chattanooga
Other than that “G” great job! 😉. Please. Correct me if I am wrong (trying to understand) You did an 8mm female and a 3.5mm male. Would that leave a gap of 4.5mm gap? Or am I thinking wrong? Which is quite possible lol keep up the good work
LOL I am surprised it took someone that long to mention the G. I do an 8mm Female and then the male is in 3 different passes that equal 9mm. that gives you the gap at the bottom for glue squeeze as well as a gap at the top to trim off.
@@stlwoodworking ahhh ok I missed that. I guess I need to go back and rewatch. About the G thing I’m an FSU guy but my nephew was just promoted at the T and recruiting director…🤷♂️ 😂
Thanks. Love your videos! Question, I noticed you kept your Tbn bit as a tbn bit in the tool database settings. I have seen other people Change the tbn to a vbit and double the angle. Do you find you don’t have to change the bit in the tool database? Thanks! Chris
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@HamiltonDilbeck
Really enjoyed this video, Greg! Well done.
Awesome! Thank you!
That's pretty awesome. I've used a 30d bit with great success but this is even one step better. Well done.
Thank you. Yeah I played around with different ones and this is what I find works best
This is great! I’m working on a piece where the entire piece if a 1.5” circles with a logo inlaid. I’m doing my clearance passes and cutouts with a 1/16” bit… I had been doing the inlay tool paths with a 30 degree Amana, but I can already tell by looking at the Vectric preview that this is going to work better for this super small design.
…also, it appears we have the same jointer AND table saw… subbed.
Awesome. Welcome. Be sure to check out our FB community so you can share it when you are done. Have Patreon as well with Discord.
Great Video, but just wondering if there was a reason that you couldn't set your start depth at 2 and set the full DOC at 9 and adjust the pass depths in the tool path,instead of creating 3 different tool paths? Also if you group toolpaths when saving the should group those different passes together for the same tool.
I guess you could. The reason I started this way was because the software I was using. I could not adjust the passes. So at this point I can create a tool path just as fast as I could go in and adjust the passes.
This is Pro! Nice work Greg!
Thank you very much
Really helpful video Greg, thank you! Like a lot of people I've been a bit disappointed with Vectrics new Vcarve Inlay feature in Version 12. I've been looking for a good guide on the "old" way of doing a vcarve inlay. I've one question though, if I was to choose to skip the 1st two toolpaths and do a full 9mm cut instead of "creeping" up on it what do you think the implications would be? You mention in the video it cuts down on chipout but I've seen many tube videos where the TBN cuts straight in, in one pass? Thank you again!
It does cut well but I would still do it for that reason. As far as vetric and the new tool path, it works well for your more shallow inlays. It is new so you may have to give them a little to get the bugs worked out
Wouldn't you get the same stepping down in stages affect that you are getting with the multiple tool paths by setting the path depth on the tools to the 2mm (0.08 in)?
@@johnl8006 I think the reason why he is doing it this way is because rhe v carve toolpath doesn't have the multiple passes option.
I might be mistaken though, would love to get a definitive answer as well
If you use a 1/16 tapered ball nose, I would think that you would have to make sure all the vectors have no radii less that 1/32” otherwise the male will not match the female exactly
Sir the information in this video was extremely valuable for me. Thank you so much. I have the same set up as you in regards to CNC and software. How did you get Carbide motion to recognize tool changes from Vectric? Subscribed!
Thank you. When you export the gcode you select the post possessor as carbide motion and everything is available just like using carbide create. It will come over and request a tool change and tell you which tool # to change to and will reset using the bitsetter.
Wondering if you can help me out. Followed the depth of cuts for a two part inlay. One mountain scene in walnut that came out good with the settings (though I needed to tap it in a bit more in one part and have a small gap as a result. Nothing some glue and sawdust won't take care of) but the second inlay is a compass with N, W, E lettering. Parts of the compass tips and smaller section of lettering didn't cut as deep in the female said as the cutout for the male. I used 1/8" clearance and the tapered Jenny bit for both. Wondering if I just needed smaller than a 1/8" for a second clearance? Tapered Jenny just didn't seem to get as deep. First attempt at an inlay here, so still figuring this out!
If it is that small of detail you could do a small test cut to see if maybe a 1/16th bit might work. I would be happy to look at the file for you if you would like.
Thanks. Love your videos! Question, I noticed you kept your Tbn bit as a tbn bit in the tool database settings. I have seen other people Change the tbn to a vbit and double the angle.
Do you find you don’t have to change the bit in the tool database?
Thanks!
Chris
@@chrispelletier3661 they do that if they want to use version 12’s built in carve inlay tool. Otherwise they do the “traditional” method that this video explains.
Loved the video- I’m sorry if you’ve already answered but does this technique produce a tighter in-law than using the inlay tool path?
I think it does with less tear out. I have not actually tried one with the new toolpath and I honestly don't know that I will LOL. I've had such good success I don't see any reason to change.
Great and detailed video. Question - I too group tool paths in Vectric when possible but save them in chunks based on the bit. You just saved them all together. When the CNC machine is done with tool #1 (running all three passes), does it return to the origin point and wait for you to do the tool change, allowing you to resume and move on to step two? I use GSender and can't imagine that.... thanks, Sir!
Yes it does. I use carbide motion and when it is done with a tool it will come to the front to allow the change and then it uses the bit setter to measure the bit I changed to and then runs the next path.
Nice informative video. The tapered bits seem to be the way to go, especially for cutting boards. Using a 60 degree with the depth of cuts Vectric uses is ok for a wall hanging inlay or something not going to be chopped on and resurfaced. It leaves too big of a glue gap that becomes a void. And the tapered bit allows a deeper cut which equals more resurfacing. Curious about using the 2 clearance bits instead of just 1. Was there a part of the G that was too tight for the 1/4”?
Absolutely. I hope more people will give it a try and see how much better it is in my opinion. That's one reason we put together that bit bundle.
Very nice tuto amigo, thank you
Thank you.
I just received my bits. Do you have a recommend font to use to give a good deep inlay? My toolpath model does not appear to be deep enough with the font I chose. I can't recall which font I chose (away from my shop computer)
It really just depends on what you are going for. I try several different types to get what I need for a project. Just go by your render until you get what looks good. The bolder letters do tend to do better with deeper.
Ok thank you
@@mariomarcoccia6277 you are welcome.
@@stlwoodworking Good morning Greg, Happy Friday! My female cut came out perfect. But one of my male pieces did not fit. As I processed the toolpath, it gave me a warning about tolerance issues and one of the bits may not cut. So of course, I pressed on and does not fit. I'll grab the screenshot of issues and send this afternoon. I need to get this project to my client by next weekend, so any help is greatly appreciated. I have no issues paying for your time as I'm sure you are a busy man. Cheers
Mario
@@mariomarcoccia6277 Reach out to me through my website. stlwoodworkingshop.com
thanks for posting this video, it's always good to learn new techniques, but I do have a question for you. Is there a reason why you do 3 separate passes for each of the inlay (positive ) pieces rather than changing your pass depth of the tool so that it will only go down 3 or 3.5 mm per pass ( whatever you set the pass depth to) ? then you could run one pass but it would only go down that max depth per pass.
Just easier for me. That way it doesn't chip out taking too much each pass.
Yes, I understand that it doesn't chip out when you take shallow passes, I essentially do the same thing by changing the tool parameters, and that way I don't have to run 3 toolpaths. you can achieve the same thing taking 3 shallow passes with one toolpath. Thanks for the reply. I look forward to more of your videos
@@stlwoodworking
@@gregraso557 Thank you for the tip
Has your process changed with the new v12 features?
Nope. I hardly use it. If I am doing something other than a cutting board I will use the new feature but still do it my way otherwise.
What software You use
I use Vcarve Pro
I’m leaving this comment BEFORE I watch this video- I’m a CNC idiot when it comes to inlays, so let’s see just how good you are! Haha. I’m kidding. But seriously, I can’t seem to nail down the geometry of the inlay with the TBN bits… so fingers crossed!
Good luck. Pick up my set from Jennybits and that will help. also come join me over at CNC with me. I also offer a little more help to the people on my UA-cam membership...ORRR if you are in the Chattanooga area lol. I teach at Woodcraft of Chattanooga
Note that detailed pattern with very fine lines may require endgrain. Mine was too detailed & fell apart. Used epoxy instead
Yeah fine detail deep, end grain does much better
Go Dawgs!
Other than that “G” great job! 😉. Please. Correct me if I am wrong (trying to understand) You did an 8mm female and a 3.5mm male. Would that leave a gap of 4.5mm gap? Or am I thinking wrong? Which is quite possible lol keep up the good work
LOL I am surprised it took someone that long to mention the G. I do an 8mm Female and then the male is in 3 different passes that equal 9mm. that gives you the gap at the bottom for glue squeeze as well as a gap at the top to trim off.
@@stlwoodworking ahhh ok I missed that. I guess I need to go back and rewatch. About the G thing I’m an FSU guy but my nephew was just promoted at the T and recruiting director…🤷♂️ 😂
That is awesome. I am going to do some other teams "for friends" to see how they turn out.
@@stlwoodworking Seahawks would be a great one try. For a friend of course… 🤷♂️
@@CampfireWoodworksRVA makes sense lol
Where in GA? I’m in Savannah area.
Rome. North West corner
@@stlwoodworking I spent a lot of time there in early 90’s at the paper mill.
@@KVASavannah it's still here lol
Awesome
Thank you very much
I tried inlay without a bandsaw. I do not recommend
No I like using it. You can also surface with the CNC as well I just find it takes longer
Thanks. Love your videos! Question, I noticed you kept your Tbn bit as a tbn bit in the tool database settings. I have seen other people Change the tbn to a vbit and double the angle.
Do you find you don’t have to change the bit in the tool database?
Thanks!
Chris
The only thing I have to change is my feeds and speeds it does very well