Can you make some videos about how to replace the Rear Lower Inner and Outer + Upper Inner and Outer bushings on an 07 Outback at home please... I've been waiting for that video
This exact thing happened to me, but with a lot more cursing and shouting. Seriously, most pleasant and calm mechanic-voice I've ever heard. Bob Ross with a hammer. Thank you.
That's what I was thinking!! He didn't even say a curse word, and throw his ratchet when it snapped. Then later, when the extractor broke, nothing.... Not a MF'er or anything! LOL
The eighties front-wheel drive Chrysler products used this design, but the knuckle wasn't threaded. They simply put a nut on the end, and that's what I'd do here. Just drill the entire thing out, put a bolt through it with a nut on the end.
Thanks for this video. I have a 2000 Outback that has spent its 22 year life in NE Ohio, tons of salt exposure. The ball joints are original with 237,000 miles on them. I was able to get both rusted pinch bolts out in one piece. Not saying this will work for everybody, but here's what I did: torch front and back areas of the pinch bolt for about 1 minute in each place (used a propane torch). Air hammer the pinch bolt front and back areas for about 30 seconds in each place and anywhere you can get purchase around the pinch bolt, but not on the bolt head so you don't mar it. Repeat the torch and air hammer treatment one or two more times. Put a breaker bar on the bolt head and put light to moderate tension on it and gently bounced the tension up and down for a few minutes, but not enough to remove the bolt or break it. Put impact wrench on bolt head at low setting and let it vibrate for about 30 seconds. Increased air hammer setting, put it on the bolt head and the bolt came out. This worked for both ball joint pinch bolts. This took some time but much less time and effort than necessary to remove a broken pinch bolt.
Always spray and "vibrate tap" with a hammer and even heat that knuckle or they will break. Use an impact driver but do not try and drive the bolt out. Actually, tighten first with the shortest trigger bust you can do. Then flip the switch to the loosen direction and do another burst. Keep doing this back and forth. I usually punch a mark the bolt on the other side or mark it so I can see when the bolt starts to move. If really rusty, do the same but with heat first and you will see the penetration fluid steaming out of the bolt. You want this. I also will get a bowl of ice cubes and put the corner of a cube on the bolt to shock cool it after heating the knuckle. I know spraying the penetrant kind of does this, but it's also cooling the knuckle, ice cubes always work best. Same procedure with the wheel bearing on Subaru's. Don't wait to do this procedure till after you snap the bolt especially if you see rust. You'll end up with three bolts on the wheel bearing that came out and a spun bolt head you can't get out. Then you have to pull the knuckle and take it to the bench or a machine shop. The whole time you are thinking, I got the other three out with no problem but rushed the first one. Ask me how I know.
If you are here, it's probably too late...but before it breaks, try more intense heat. An oxy-propane or oxy- acetylene torch can heat up the outer part of the knuckle quicker than the bolt inside heats up, making a bigger heat differential, and breaking free the threads easier. If you think you need to extend your breaker bar, hammer on your wrench, or put extra force on your wrench you'll break off your pinch bolt and need to fix a much bigger problem.
Thanks for the video. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought heating up any suspension part was a big no-no because you risk annealing (taking out the temper) the steel. I've heard a decent number of those pinch lobes cracking, and I wonder if it's because they were heated at one time. Also, I thought you were not supposed to put antiseize on bolts, as you can't properly torque them afterwards.
The Vw/Audi pinch bolt taught me to soak the bolt prior. Multiple heat cycles and a breaker bar while working the bolt back and fourth slowly will work everytime. Mine was rusted way worse and came out in one piece.
I drilled mine out today. Car is sitting till tomorrow. I got frustrated and drilled right thru the thread's I'm planning to use a grade 8 bolt and nut as replacement. Hope it works
@@MattPayne1 I agree with you bro. going to take a few hrs but you got to drill it out then use a longer bolt with a nut on the end. a little disappointed with the video. the knuckle is pretty expensive new, used will probably have the same problem as they seize commonly. Machine shop will drill the bolt out the knuckle for cheap too
I tried drilling mine out but ended up welding a m10 nut on the part of the bolt that was still sticking out and luckily I got it out. If you have a welder and the skill to do this I highly recommend this method. This was my first time welding a nut on and I'm so glad it worked.
What experience has shown me was to just keep going with drill sizes until all that left can be chased out or use a pick .then run the appropriate tap thru the hole install new pinch bolt with blue locktite and it's finished .
You guys at 1A are WAY too professional. You know this is UA-cam, right? Gotta hear some F*bombs when that bolt broke! Seriously though, excellent video. The thing that separates a pro from the amateur is a broad skill set, a plan B to get himself out of trouble. Good for you, to keep the camera rolling to show what happens when things go bad.
I have a 2002 all-wheel drive Subaru outback rust free, I just sprayed plenty of rest penetrating oil on both of my pinch bolt I let them sit and then I used a small propane torch and applied just enough heat not cherry red the combination of penetrating oil losing my bolts up without even breaking
Don't sink the loop of the cotter pin into the castle nuts, that makes it a bear to remove next time since you can't grab the head firmly. Instead, turn the cotter pin 90 degrees and leave the loop outside the castle and bend the tails around the nut.
Broke my pinch bolt today. Tried drilling out the bolt and broke 2 drill bits after drilling half way through. Take my advice, I welded a m10-1.5mm nut on to the end where the bolt was sticking out(after wire brushing it of course) and it came out without a problem.
I broke my pb too. I found one at a salvage yard. Cotter pins were hammered flush with the castle nut. Sheared it off with a breaker like you did but now the pin is jammed in the hole. I’m sure the salvaged pb will snap off too. Do yourselves a favor and just buy a new steering knuckle.
Also, in my post I forgot to mention that I sprayed PB Blaster on the pinch bolt on the two days before trying to extract it. Don't know if it actually helped, but that's what I did. Also, I cut off the ball joint's rubber boot to prevent it from catching fire when I used the torch. Also, it's very important to shield the CV boot from the heat and leave an air gap between the shield and the CV boot. I used a piece of sheet metal.
For a similar inexpensive alternative, search 'hinge bit set' on Amazon, really cheap. They are designed for quickly drilling centered holes for wood door hinges. They center the pilot hole, and you can then drill the pilot to whatever size you want with a normal bit. The trick is to get that first hole dead center and square. In this hub I'd use a grade 8 bolt and nut to hold it together after drilling. The threaded knuckle, with a pinch slot half way through, is a design error.
Pinch bolt just broke for me when trying to change out a lower control arm. I ordered a new knuckle since it was damaged from trying to drill out the bolt. But can you tell me when a new hub would be necessary too?
Yeah this job is better left for a shop if you live in the rust belt oxy acetylene is a must a propane torch doesn't get hot enough. Good luck to DIY people looking at this to save you it won't. I remember having to drill this out for hours when i was an apprentice
I know this is old but hope for a reply. I’m using gf’s you tube. My pb also broke was absolute hell to remove. I don’t have an option for a new knuckle for 01forester front right so I’m just securing it with a bolt and nut and lock washers. My problem is getting that old ball joint out of the knuckle. I have heated and beat the heck out of it and can’t budge it. Please please, any advice will help. Thanks so much and great video. Jim. F
Per Ajax Fastener Handbook, a heavily greased bolt should be torqued to 70% of the spec torque. "Standard finish plus heavy grease" "Factor = 0.7". (Disclaimer: this is a non-mechanic lay man that only watches youtube videos talking)
This is the worst situation when you DIY. I have bought a set of control arm and ball joint, but cannot loose the pinch bolt yet. I spray some penetrate, hope can loose it next weekend.
I went through the same problem with an 09 Forester. The pinch bolts and ball joints were so seized in there. I just ordered new knuckles with new pinch bolts.. problem solved.
Everything is coming apart for me to replace the knuckle except the stupid speed sensor. Ahh im hoping the other side isnt this sressfull now that ive learned what not to do
Oh man, heat was the first thing he should of apply and when it cools down bolt comes out really easy l guess you have to learn the hard way. Knuckle don't even have to come off that's the hard way. I'm sure going into this job he knew the bolt is frozen I guess you also have to learn from your mistakes
As soon as he said trying to remove the old part of the bolt with a extractor I said “that never works” sure enough. It didn’t. I have NEVER SEEN a internal extractor work. i was in the same situation recently. And dealer wants $400/ea knuckle 🤮 salvage yards it is
I have never, ever seen one of those stupid extractors work. They always shear off and usually in a much worse location where you can't simply drive them back out.
![[UA] NAVI vs MOUZ | BO5 | IEM Rio 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CMBYk0cbGoA/mqdefault.jpg)
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Can you make some videos about how to replace the Rear Lower Inner and Outer + Upper Inner and Outer bushings on an 07 Outback at home please... I've been waiting for that video
This exact thing happened to me, but with a lot more cursing and shouting. Seriously, most pleasant and calm mechanic-voice I've ever heard. Bob Ross with a hammer. Thank you.
That's what I was thinking!! He didn't even say a curse word, and throw his ratchet when it snapped. Then later, when the extractor broke, nothing.... Not a MF'er or anything! LOL
The eighties front-wheel drive Chrysler products used this design, but the knuckle wasn't threaded. They simply put a nut on the end, and that's what I'd do here. Just drill the entire thing out, put a bolt through it with a nut on the end.
Exactly. And its only torqued to like 40lbs, so its not like a massive amount of stress is on it.
Have this same problem thank you!
Thanks for this video. I have a 2000 Outback that has spent its 22 year life in NE Ohio, tons of salt exposure. The ball joints are original with 237,000 miles on them. I was able to get both rusted pinch bolts out in one piece. Not saying this will work for everybody, but here's what I did: torch front and back areas of the pinch bolt for about 1 minute in each place (used a propane torch). Air hammer the pinch bolt front and back areas for about 30 seconds in each place and anywhere you can get purchase around the pinch bolt, but not on the bolt head so you don't mar it. Repeat the torch and air hammer treatment one or two more times. Put a breaker bar on the bolt head and put light to moderate tension on it and gently bounced the tension up and down for a few minutes, but not enough to remove the bolt or break it. Put impact wrench on bolt head at low setting and let it vibrate for about 30 seconds. Increased air hammer setting, put it on the bolt head and the bolt came out. This worked for both ball joint pinch bolts. This took some time but much less time and effort than necessary to remove a broken pinch bolt.
Good to see a video showing problems that can occur in the real world.
Always spray and "vibrate tap" with a hammer and even heat that knuckle or they will break. Use an impact driver but do not try and drive the bolt out. Actually, tighten first with the shortest trigger bust you can do. Then flip the switch to the loosen direction and do another burst. Keep doing this back and forth. I usually punch a mark the bolt on the other side or mark it so I can see when the bolt starts to move. If really rusty, do the same but with heat first and you will see the penetration fluid steaming out of the bolt. You want this. I also will get a bowl of ice cubes and put the corner of a cube on the bolt to shock cool it after heating the knuckle.
I know spraying the penetrant kind of does this, but it's also cooling the knuckle, ice cubes always work best.
Same procedure with the wheel bearing on Subaru's.
Don't wait to do this procedure till after you snap the bolt especially if you see rust.
You'll end up with three bolts on the wheel bearing that came out and a spun bolt head you can't get out. Then you have to pull the knuckle and take it to the bench or a machine shop.
The whole time you are thinking, I got the other three out with no problem but rushed the first one.
Ask me how I know.
+Chris Fitzgerald Thanks for the feedback!
Funny how a 1 hour job with Subaru ball joints turns into a 2 day project! Damn you Subaru steering knuckle engineers
+Toothycritter02 Thanks for the feedback! Some repairs are definitely easier than others and we hope this video helped you through the replacement!
If you are here, it's probably too late...but before it breaks, try more intense heat. An oxy-propane or oxy- acetylene torch can heat up the outer part of the knuckle quicker than the bolt inside heats up, making a bigger heat differential, and breaking free the threads easier. If you think you need to extend your breaker bar, hammer on your wrench, or put extra force on your wrench you'll break off your pinch bolt and need to fix a much bigger problem.
+David Forrest Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for the video. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought heating up any suspension part was a big no-no because you risk annealing (taking out the temper) the steel. I've heard a decent number of those pinch lobes cracking, and I wonder if it's because they were heated at one time. Also, I thought you were not supposed to put antiseize on bolts, as you can't properly torque them afterwards.
The Vw/Audi pinch bolt taught me to soak the bolt prior. Multiple heat cycles and a breaker bar while working the bolt back and fourth slowly will work everytime. Mine was rusted way worse and came out in one piece.
I drilled mine out today. Car is sitting till tomorrow. I got frustrated and drilled right thru the thread's I'm planning to use a grade 8 bolt and nut as replacement. Hope it works
did it work?
So the way to replace the ball joint is to replace the entire knuckle and throw away the old knuckle with the old ball joint seized in it? Lol
After a week of trying- that's what I did.
ehhh... generally a pain
@@MattPayne1 I agree with you bro. going to take a few hrs but you got to drill it out then use a longer bolt with a nut on the end. a little disappointed with the video. the knuckle is pretty expensive new, used will probably have the same problem as they seize commonly. Machine shop will drill the bolt out the knuckle for cheap too
I tried drilling mine out but ended up welding a m10 nut on the part of the bolt that was still sticking out and luckily I got it out. If you have a welder and the skill to do this I highly recommend this method. This was my first time welding a nut on and I'm so glad it worked.
Drill through the bolt and replace with a trough bolt ?
What experience has shown me was to just keep going with drill sizes until all that left can be chased out or use a pick .then run the appropriate tap thru the hole install new pinch bolt with blue locktite and it's finished .
Where'd you get those drill GUIDES!?
Those are awesome
Never seen those
14:24 - Good job not cussing up a storm.
You guys at 1A are WAY too professional. You know this is UA-cam, right? Gotta hear some F*bombs when that bolt broke! Seriously though, excellent video. The thing that separates a pro from the amateur is a broad skill set, a plan B to get himself out of trouble. Good for you, to keep the camera rolling to show what happens when things go bad.
+spelunkerd Thanks for the feedback!
Good honest work. Some things just go wrong and we just have to move forward and correct it. Thanks.
+ugh3012 Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Best to just slowly drill out the broken bolt completely. Extractors just compress the threads tighter.
+Emilio Gonzalez Thanks for the tip!
I have a 2002 all-wheel drive Subaru outback rust free, I just sprayed plenty of rest penetrating oil on both of my pinch bolt I let them sit and then I used a small propane torch and applied just enough heat not cherry red the combination of penetrating oil losing my bolts up without even breaking
To save you 34 minutes.... get another spindle, that’s all they did.. and use a lot of anti-seize
ThrRottIez that’s what I had to do. That damn pinch bolt was designed by satan.
Don't sink the loop of the cotter pin into the castle nuts, that makes it a bear to remove next time since you can't grab the head firmly. Instead, turn the cotter pin 90 degrees and leave the loop outside the castle and bend the tails around the nut.
+David Forrest Thanks for the tip!
Think I’m going to start going to meditation class with this guy
starting to get anxiety about doing control arm and ball joint tomorrow. jesus.
Broke my pinch bolt today. Tried drilling out the bolt and broke 2 drill bits after drilling half way through. Take my advice, I welded a m10-1.5mm nut on to the end where the bolt was sticking out(after wire brushing it of course) and it came out without a problem.
I broke my pb too. I found one at a salvage yard. Cotter pins were hammered flush with the castle nut. Sheared it off with a breaker like you did but now the pin is jammed in the hole. I’m sure the salvaged pb will snap off too. Do yourselves a favor and just buy a new steering knuckle.
+OddHeathen Thanks for the feedback!
Also, in my post I forgot to mention that I sprayed PB Blaster on the pinch bolt on the two days before trying to extract it. Don't know if it actually helped, but that's what I did. Also, I cut off the ball joint's rubber boot to prevent it from catching fire when I used the torch. Also, it's very important to shield the CV boot from the heat and leave an air gap between the shield and the CV boot. I used a piece of sheet metal.
Where can you purchase the drill center guides? This would have saved me on more than one occasion.
+Jeffrey Servay Try searching on eBay Motors. Thanks for checking us out!
For a similar inexpensive alternative, search 'hinge bit set' on Amazon, really cheap. They are designed for quickly drilling centered holes for wood door hinges. They center the pilot hole, and you can then drill the pilot to whatever size you want with a normal bit. The trick is to get that first hole dead center and square. In this hub I'd use a grade 8 bolt and nut to hold it together after drilling. The threaded knuckle, with a pinch slot half way through, is a design error.
Pinch bolt just broke for me when trying to change out a lower control arm. I ordered a new knuckle since it was damaged from trying to drill out the bolt. But can you tell me when a new hub would be necessary too?
Yeah this job is better left for a shop if you live in the rust belt oxy acetylene is a must a propane torch doesn't get hot enough. Good luck to DIY people looking at this to save you it won't. I remember having to drill this out for hours when i was an apprentice
Its way safer to use the brakes to stop the bearing from spinning to take the wheel nut off
I know this is old but hope for a reply. I’m using gf’s you tube. My pb also broke was absolute hell to remove. I don’t have an option for a new knuckle for 01forester front right so I’m just securing it with a bolt and nut and lock washers. My problem is getting that old ball joint out of the knuckle. I have heated and beat the heck out of it and can’t budge it. Please please, any advice will help.
Thanks so much and great video.
Jim. F
Per Ajax Fastener Handbook, a heavily greased bolt should be torqued to 70% of the spec torque. "Standard finish plus heavy grease" "Factor = 0.7".
(Disclaimer: this is a non-mechanic lay man that only watches youtube videos talking)
This is the worst situation when you DIY. I have bought a set of control arm and ball joint, but cannot loose the pinch bolt yet. I spray some penetrate, hope can loose it next weekend.
I went through the same problem with an 09 Forester. The pinch bolts and ball joints were so seized in there. I just ordered new knuckles with new pinch bolts.. problem solved.
If you got it at a salvage yard, how is it new?
is the axle nut a 32 or 34? I have heard your mechanics say 32 on one outback and 34 on this one
Terrible design, I wasted so much time and broke so many tools only to have to replace the entire knuckle.
Where did you get the new bolt from? It's not in the list.
"So the extractor broke..." 😂
Words you never want to hear
perfect temperament for a mechanic. hope i never have to drill out a cracked bolt, yikes.
Can i use grade 8 bolt as replacement
That's what I was about to try. I saw that you can on a forum.
Might as well replace the knuckle after all that rnr work
Thanks but Subaru Japan oem ball joints for me. They last a long time.
Thats why you use anti-sieze folks !
Everything is coming apart for me to replace the knuckle except the stupid speed sensor. Ahh im hoping the other side isnt this sressfull now that ive learned what not to do
Oh man, heat was the first thing he should of apply and when it cools down bolt comes out really easy l guess you have to learn the hard way. Knuckle don't even have to come off that's the hard way. I'm sure going into this job he knew the bolt is frozen I guess you also have to learn from your mistakes
As soon as he said trying to remove the old part of the bolt with a extractor I said “that never works” sure enough. It didn’t. I have NEVER SEEN a internal extractor work. i was in the same situation recently. And dealer wants $400/ea knuckle 🤮 salvage yards it is
+Mean O’ Dustino Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Why didn't you re-use the old hub?
+Paul Ferraro It was bad and needed to be replaced anyways - if yours is good. Keep it
I have never, ever seen one of those stupid extractors work. They always shear off and usually in a much worse location where you can't simply drive them back out.
Dont have to take off the links.
May as well replace that file to now.
You mean his rust saw?
Guess who just snapped their pinch bolt! 🙄 Lol. Fml
Same, despite heat and loads of prep with penetrating lube. I'm going to drill it out on the vehicle and use a longer bolt and nut.
Me too. This gd pinch bolt is a nightmare.
@@philipsquire9056 Hope I can loose my pinch bolt next weekend. Yesterday, I tried two hours,the pinch bolt is the only bolt I cannot loose.
This the worst thing when you DIY your car.
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👍🏻👌
should have removed boot before burning lol
All that extra work because of the poor design of the pinch bolt
+Matt Jones Thanks for the feedback!
Don't even try to undo the pinch bolt without getting that part red hot with a torch first. this guys a noob
34MM my @$$. That's a 32MM axle nut. This is the video to watch if you don't know what you're doing. Typical parts changers here.
The title is misleading. 5 minutes I'll never get back.
Title is misleading, the video is how to replace a knuckle as they don't actually fix the issue.