I just finished this job on my LMM. I wouldn't recommend attempting it if you're a beginner DIY'er but it's doable with patience just don't expect to get it done in 4-5 hours. The drivers side was by far the most difficult part. I removed the hot side intercooler pipe for more room and removing the EGR coolant line helped in getting the driver side up-pipe out of it's home. I also removed the glow plug module bracket up top for more working room but you don't really need to. Just like every job take your time and keep organized, remember if it's your project you're not getting paid to go fast. That's just my two cents, good luck to anyone doing this and thanks to @truckmastergarage for the videos.
Considering this on my LMM. There definitely isn't much room on the back side of the motor. Biggest concern is snapping bolts off during disassembly. What did you use to remove the bolts, and how did you get any PB Blaster or something similar to the bolts to help loosen the rust?
@@robertnewman1593 I soaked the up pipe bolts at the manifolds with PB and it was easy enough to reach but at the turbo pedestal i did my best to get back there from the top and was mildly successful. Since I bought the truck in CA and I was very careful to break them free with the smallest breaker bar I could they all came out without breaking.
I can't find much video on the up pipe drivers side at all. Anything besides braking a bolt should I be worried about? I have sprayed the bolts with Sea Foam Deep Creep penetrating oil for a couple days, passenger side came ok on manifold. down pipe is out and i sprayed more penetrat oil on the studs in the turbo and let them sit over night. Haven't done anything with driver side yet and it looks like a pain.
@@Jeff-nc3ld the only concern I had was damaging the coolant line but it went smooth enough. I used the same techniques as the passenger it was just more difficult to get at the bolts but once you break them free running em out by hand from the top isn't bad. The manifold side is fairly easy I used a wrench with a little piece of pipe where I could. Getting the gaskets situated and the coolant line in while finagling the up pipe around was the most annoying part in my opinion and just took patience. I hope it goes smoothly for ya!
@dylankopera5428 I'm not sure what coolant line you're referring to on the drivers side. This is why I like to see a video done on the drivers side so you can preview and have an idea what to expect. Thank you. I hope it goes well, too. Working outside and looking like rain the next 2 days so I'll be spraying the studs and let them soak as much as possible. I can't wait to forget about this job, lol. Appreciate the info and reply. Thank you.
I really love your views on these upgrades and how you are doing these videos to help others. God bless you for your kindness! I'm really happy for you and your success with your shop and all you have been doing. Congratulations to you and your wife with the news of your expected child.
Hey brother really glad you made a video gave me something good to watch on Sunday night. I guess I’ll’ bring my 05 Duramax up there for you to take a look at. Been waiting for some more Cummins diesel build. Let’s git’er done soldier!
Great video man I love diesel trucks so much man I love all engines Cummins Duramax & Powerstroke man keep on making great content you’re the best diesel truck content creator ever to live man
Really liking your videos with Ryan’s & Kodiak your putting out so much incredible information and I’m glad your working on the lmm,very sorry for your loss of your father in law. Nice wife max truck. The color scheme works very well.
Thanks alot for the video!! Blew holes in manifold and up-pipe driver side. Trucks goin to Ressurected Diesel in couple weeks to let them do few things to it as I don't have the time or patience to do on my own.
Tips Disconnect the batteries before working near the starter with tools that could short the connectors. Ersatz torque wrench Cut a square of plastic out of a milk bottle and fold it over a box spanner so that the end will press into the palm of your hand as you tighten a fastener that is in a socket on your torque wrench set to the correct torque, when the wrench clicks check how deep a dent there is in the plastic. Match that dent when you do up the fasteners and you will be close to the correct torque.
Last time i ran into my manifolds all 6 up pipe bolts broke 😅, paid someone to do it and that was a heafty bill for both sides. This time im gonna give it a go myself, unfortunately after only about a year the driver side gasket let loose 😢
The dmax store manifolds and up pipes arent too bad and they're a little cheaper. I ran those on my lb7. Probably gonna go the same route on the lmm. I already put a ppe downpipe on it tho so I may stay ppe just to ensure everything fits like it should lol
Good morning everybody has anybody found a improved a pipe that doesn't have the baffles I could have swore I saw one at some point in time for the LLY I've already changed out my up pipes with the non EGR type but the baffle blew again my biggest thing is I don't want to have to put on another one with baffles if I can avoid it anyone with Insight or help let me know thank you
Ive done just about everything i can do to my duramax and this is one of the last things I need to fix. The up pipe cracked on me and had a serious leak and made my truck run like crap. Ive finally bit the bullet and bought the part but IDK if its just me but its hard to find me a uppipe now that dont have the Y branch to the egr... everywhere said that it was an illegal part to buy now. Anyone know is thats true? So I was forced to buy an off brand one somewhere that didnt have the y branch
Awesome videos. I'm getting ready to install the PPE manifolds, up pipes and downpipe on my 2002 LB7 CA smog. Do I need to get a driver side oil dip stick tube or will the stock tube work ?
Hello, Great video. I got a 2015 3500 lml. looking to up grade to PPE. And was trying to get up pipes without the egr split. In the video 01-16 up pipes are all compatible?
I bought my lly in 2019 with 72k bone stock. Paid 13k for it l'm 2nd owner. I did the S&B mouthpiece and full WCfab intake and pipe kit. Did the 165 fass lift pump and egr delete. Thing runs like a scalded cat. My buddy on the other hand bought a lbz in 2020 with 110k on it. Paid 30k for it. The entire undercarriage is rusted to shit. He had to put 10k into it since he owned it and has nothing but problems with it. I wouldn't trade my lly for his lbz in a million years and I have an extra 25k in my pocket.
I installed ups and manifolds. Also dropped in a 64 rds. The turbo was bad buring oil on the exhaust side. Sent it back and they sent me another. Installed it same problem just not as bad. Hazes every now and again while acceleration. Dk what to do about turbo. Your suggestions?
Hopefully you can get this resolved man that can’t be fun, I’m just thinking there could be another reason especially if two new turbo are having the same problem but I’m sure you will get it resolved soon. Best of luck with everything man
@@truckmastergarage9944 I'm sure it will come together. Thanks for replying. I watch all of u guys videos...love it. My first diesel but best of luck to your channel. Keep up the good work
Say , I just learned how to open the link that ya spoke about . Man, that’s a lot of great information. So what ya had listed as parts and upgrades , how much would all of that cost and then how much would it be for the labor ? Thanks again Senor.
2015durmaxlml- I just completed this project in January. I have been having a few problems with the downpipe leaking exhaust into my cab from the turbo connection. It feels like the down pipe is restricted from seating flush with the turbo connection. Any suggestions?
I almost can guarantee it’s the v band clamp. The best thing you can do is install the ac delco one from the gm dealership . I had the same problem and it was the old clamp I used
I can't answer for him. But my opinion is the LLY years. It's after the lb7 which was plagued with very expensive injector issues and it's just before the lbz whick had a couple problems of its own. One The LLY's only major issues that plagued owners was that it overheated during extended load. But a relatively cheap modification with replacing the turbo inlet mouthpiece pretty much solved that issue. Also, LLY is way underrated and way better VALUE than the LBZ, in the big picture. I bought my lly in 2019 with 72k bone stock. Paid 13k for it I'm 2nd owner. I did the S&B mouthpiece and full WCfab intake and pipe kit. Did the 165 fass lift pump and egr delete. My buddy on the other hand bought a lbz in 2020 with 110k on it. Paid 30k for it. The entire undercarriage is rusted to shit. He had to put 10k into it since he owned it and has nothing but problems with it. I wouldn't trade my lly for his lbz in a million years and I have an extra 25k in my pocket
I knew you were military (fellow vet). Anyways. I have an 07 LBZ. I only have 350000 miles on it so far. I get the intoxicating fumes under the hood and in the cab and just know there's got to be an exhaust leak around the engine. It is all stock including EGR. I'm pretty sure I had a turbo coolant line just burst and figure, if I'm going to start going into the valley, I might as well fix the entire exhaust and fix the fumes issue for 300k more miles. I'm thinking just replacing the entire exhaust and trashing the EGR system. Have time to take a call? email? What I'm seeing that makes up the exhaust is: manifolds, up pipe (2 sides), down pipe, main exhaust run, then the EGR and EGR cooler. Am I missing any other parts of the exhaust system? Is reprogramming needed after trashing the EGR? I just rebuilt my transmission about a year ago because I was going to replace my transfer case and figure I might as well put new clutch plates in while the transfer case was out. That is a "fun" job to do alone.
"Full install" and you only show one side... Lol. I am just having fun with you. Lol. I use your past and present install videos when I do stuff on my 06 cclb. Wonder what is coming next?
Man i wish I could be wearing a hoodie jeans and boots while i work, im in southern cali its so dam hot i can only get away with is a bikini and sandals. I freakin hate mosquitoes.
Buy manifolds here 👉 truckmasterdiesel.com/products/ppe-2001-2004-fed-2001-ca-gm-6-6l-duramax-high-flow-exhaust-manifold-and-up-pipe-kit
I just finished this job on my LMM. I wouldn't recommend attempting it if you're a beginner DIY'er but it's doable with patience just don't expect to get it done in 4-5 hours. The drivers side was by far the most difficult part. I removed the hot side intercooler pipe for more room and removing the EGR coolant line helped in getting the driver side up-pipe out of it's home. I also removed the glow plug module bracket up top for more working room but you don't really need to. Just like every job take your time and keep organized, remember if it's your project you're not getting paid to go fast. That's just my two cents, good luck to anyone doing this and thanks to @truckmastergarage for the videos.
Considering this on my LMM. There definitely isn't much room on the back side of the motor. Biggest concern is snapping bolts off during disassembly. What did you use to remove the bolts, and how did you get any PB Blaster or something similar to the bolts to help loosen the rust?
@@robertnewman1593 I soaked the up pipe bolts at the manifolds with PB and it was easy enough to reach but at the turbo pedestal i did my best to get back there from the top and was mildly successful. Since I bought the truck in CA and I was very careful to break them free with the smallest breaker bar I could they all came out without breaking.
I can't find much video on the up pipe drivers side at all. Anything besides braking a bolt should I be worried about? I have sprayed the bolts with Sea Foam Deep Creep penetrating oil for a couple days, passenger side came ok on manifold. down pipe is out and i sprayed more penetrat oil on the studs in the turbo and let them sit over night. Haven't done anything with driver side yet and it looks like a pain.
@@Jeff-nc3ld the only concern I had was damaging the coolant line but it went smooth enough. I used the same techniques as the passenger it was just more difficult to get at the bolts but once you break them free running em out by hand from the top isn't bad. The manifold side is fairly easy I used a wrench with a little piece of pipe where I could. Getting the gaskets situated and the coolant line in while finagling the up pipe around was the most annoying part in my opinion and just took patience. I hope it goes smoothly for ya!
@dylankopera5428 I'm not sure what coolant line you're referring to on the drivers side. This is why I like to see a video done on the drivers side so you can preview and have an idea what to expect. Thank you. I hope it goes well, too. Working outside and looking like rain the next 2 days so I'll be spraying the studs and let them soak as much as possible. I can't wait to forget about this job, lol. Appreciate the info and reply. Thank you.
This was the best thing I’ve done to my Duramax. It runs so much cooler and it breathes way better. Highly recommend!!!
But which part do you think made a bigger difference? Up-pipe or manifolds ?
I have banks power manifolds curious if you have heard of them and if so what's your opinion do you really like ppe product?
@@GMCSierra1992 I have banks drivers side manifold and bigger up pipes. Just got in my ppe manifolds and up pipes
I really love your views on these upgrades and how you are doing these videos to help others. God bless you for your kindness! I'm really happy for you and your success with your shop and all you have been doing. Congratulations to you and your wife with the news of your expected child.
Hey brother really glad you made a video gave me something good to watch on Sunday night. I guess I’ll’ bring my 05 Duramax up there for you to take a look at. Been waiting for some more Cummins diesel build. Let’s git’er done soldier!
Definitely!
Ppe manifolds & up pipes are Well worth the money & effort , way better quality bellows, glad to see I’m not the only one that went thru that fun 😂
This took me about 4 hours to do on my truck during my lift. It was so much easier to raise the cab a little bit help with that bolts in the back.
Great video man I love diesel trucks so much man I love all engines Cummins Duramax & Powerstroke man keep on making great content you’re the best diesel truck content creator ever to live man
Every time I watch your videos I want ondo something else to my truck!
But it’s so expensive 😂 be careful
No kidding!
Really liking your videos with Ryan’s & Kodiak your putting out so much incredible information and I’m glad your working on the lmm,very sorry for your loss of your father in law. Nice wife max truck. The color scheme works very well.
This tutorial is gold 🙏🙏
Thanks alot for the video!! Blew holes in manifold and up-pipe driver side. Trucks goin to Ressurected Diesel in couple weeks to let them do few things to it as I don't have the time or patience to do on my own.
Awesome! Tell
Rory I said hi 👋
Very helpful I'm sure the truck I get next month is going to be stock and I will have to do this upgrade thanks for sharing this info
Thanks Ed!
Thank you so much for your videos they are very helpful.
Tips
Disconnect the batteries before working near the starter with tools that could short the connectors.
Ersatz torque wrench
Cut a square of plastic out of a milk bottle and fold it over a box spanner so that the end will press into the palm of your hand as you tighten a fastener that is in a socket on your torque wrench set to the correct torque, when the wrench clicks check how deep a dent there is in the plastic.
Match that dent when you do up the fasteners and you will be close to the correct torque.
Thanks for the video, about to upgrade my manifolds due to an exhaust leak.
Damn that is a beast of a truck .
Last time i ran into my manifolds all 6 up pipe bolts broke 😅, paid someone to do it and that was a heafty bill for both sides. This time im gonna give it a go myself, unfortunately after only about a year the driver side gasket let loose 😢
would it be a good idea to re-tune a already tuned truck after installing and larger turbo along with this PPE kit?
I’m sort of confused on the 10 mm but using a 18 mm socket to extract the bolt
Good call on the headers, got a set very nice. Did the swap out because i had to swap turbo.
Even tho I will prob never do this I still love watching your vids
I really appreciate it
The dmax store manifolds and up pipes arent too bad and they're a little cheaper. I ran those on my lb7. Probably gonna go the same route on the lmm. I already put a ppe downpipe on it tho so I may stay ppe just to ensure everything fits like it should lol
Good morning everybody has anybody found a improved a pipe that doesn't have the baffles I could have swore I saw one at some point in time for the LLY I've already changed out my up pipes with the non EGR type but the baffle blew again my biggest thing is I don't want to have to put on another one with baffles if I can avoid it anyone with Insight or help let me know thank you
Will that PPE downpipe bracket work with a MBRP downpipe?
Awesome is this earls channel I like the content install videos are always good. 😎
👍👍👍
When are you going to do a CP3 conversion?? A lot of people would like to see that
I will be doing this project soon......not looking forward to it.....but I know it will be worth it in the end
Just got all the bolts out of the Driver Side Pipe but cannot get it out. Any tips?
Ive done just about everything i can do to my duramax and this is one of the last things I need to fix. The up pipe cracked on me and had a serious leak and made my truck run like crap. Ive finally bit the bullet and bought the part but IDK if its just me but its hard to find me a uppipe now that dont have the Y branch to the egr... everywhere said that it was an illegal part to buy now. Anyone know is thats true? So I was forced to buy an off brand one somewhere that didnt have the y branch
Awesome videos. I'm getting ready to install the PPE manifolds, up pipes and downpipe on my 2002 LB7 CA smog. Do I need to get a driver side oil dip stick tube or will the stock tube work ?
On the video... the truck you replaced the up pipe on sounds like it is squealing when you accelerate. Is that normal after an ERG delete?
I love this channel
Thanks!
Hello,
Great video. I got a 2015 3500 lml. looking to up grade to PPE. And was trying to get up pipes without the egr split. In the video 01-16 up pipes are all compatible?
my lbz with everything stock except 14mm cp3 and egr block off makes 30psi
My 15.5 been fully deleted since 8k miles. It’s fn insane.
I bought my lly in 2019 with
72k bone stock. Paid 13k for it l'm 2nd owner. I did the S&B
mouthpiece and full WCfab intake and pipe kit. Did the 165
fass lift pump and egr delete. Thing runs like a scalded cat.
My buddy on the other hand bought a lbz in 2020 with 110k
on it. Paid 30k for it. The entire undercarriage is rusted to
shit. He had to put 10k into it since he owned it and has
nothing but problems with it. I wouldn't trade my lly for his
lbz in a million years and I have an extra 25k in my pocket.
I have a 2004 Duramax diesel 140 k miles should I up grade injectors, is so what type you recommend
nice job earl
😂👍
No you should be good
Mane no one makes the driver side and it’s the side I need to know to install that pipe back up
I am replacing the drivers side up pipe on my 07 duramax is there anything you have to remove to get that drivers side one out ?
Down pipe
I installed ups and manifolds. Also dropped in a 64 rds. The turbo was bad buring oil on the exhaust side. Sent it back and they sent me another. Installed it same problem just not as bad. Hazes every now and again while acceleration. Dk what to do about turbo. Your suggestions?
Did you try reaching back? Also check your pcv it might be pinched. That would be the big cause of the burning oil issue
I'm going to reach back tomorrow. I checked the pvc. Nothing even blew air through them. 08 lmm pvc rerouted. Singles not into t
Hopefully you can get this resolved man that can’t be fun, I’m just thinking there could be another reason especially if two new turbo are having the same problem but I’m sure you will get it resolved soon. Best of luck with everything man
@@truckmastergarage9944 I'm sure it will come together. Thanks for replying. I watch all of u guys videos...love it. My first diesel but best of luck to your channel. Keep up the good work
Say , I just learned how to open the link that ya spoke about .
Man, that’s a lot of great information.
So what ya had listed as parts and upgrades , how much would all of that cost and then how much would it be for the labor ?
Thanks again Senor.
Thos manifolds are purdy. I wonder if you wrapped the headers how much would improve performance too.
That’s a good point
Did you get a finish put on the manifolds? Or is that raw? Concerned how the raw will rust. The manifolds I'm pulling out are pretty rusty. Thanks!
Deep oil pan install since I just ordered one lol.
Ok I can make that happen 👍
Do you have to install PP E downpipe with that exhaust manifold?
No
Would you send me the egr delete for my 2006 lbz duramax please. I would appreciate it. Ty
How much a job like that would cost
If I’m keeping the stock down pipe. Do I have to remove it to install the PPE Up-Pipes?
Yes to get to the up pipe bolts
@@adambaier4793so, might as well ordered the PPE downpipe?
If you don’t mind me asking but I was wondering how many miles are on your dmax
Egt improvements?
I love your videos
Thanks!
What’s your exhaust gas temps while towing? With these
2015durmaxlml- I just completed this project in January. I have been having a few problems with the downpipe leaking exhaust into my cab from the turbo connection. It feels like the down pipe is restricted from seating flush with the turbo connection. Any suggestions?
I almost can guarantee it’s the v band clamp. The best thing you can do is install the ac delco one from the gm dealership . I had the same problem and it was the old clamp I used
I like how you show the easy side....how about the steps to do the drivers side video big timer?
I have a question I want a diesel which one do you recommend and which one is easy to work on
I can't answer for him. But my opinion is the LLY years. It's after the lb7 which was plagued with very expensive injector issues and it's just before the lbz whick had a couple problems of its own. One The LLY's only major issues that plagued owners was that it overheated during extended load. But a relatively cheap modification with replacing the turbo inlet mouthpiece pretty much solved that issue. Also, LLY is way underrated and way better VALUE than the LBZ, in the big picture.
I bought my lly in 2019 with
72k bone stock. Paid 13k for it I'm 2nd owner. I did the S&B
mouthpiece and full WCfab intake and pipe kit. Did the 165
fass lift pump and egr delete. My buddy on the other hand bought a lbz in 2020 with 110k
on it. Paid 30k for it. The entire undercarriage is rusted to
shit. He had to put 10k into it since he owned it and has
nothing but problems with it. I wouldn't trade my lly for his
lbz in a million years and I have an extra 25k in my pocket
I don't see much on how to do just the up pile and down pipe on a lmm. Not much detail at all for the drivers side up pipe.
Your promo code never works when I put it in on these websites.
I knew you were military (fellow vet). Anyways. I have an 07 LBZ. I only have 350000 miles on it so far. I get the intoxicating fumes under the hood and in the cab and just know there's got to be an exhaust leak around the engine. It is all stock including EGR. I'm pretty sure I had a turbo coolant line just burst and figure, if I'm going to start going into the valley, I might as well fix the entire exhaust and fix the fumes issue for 300k more miles. I'm thinking just replacing the entire exhaust and trashing the EGR system. Have time to take a call? email?
What I'm seeing that makes up the exhaust is:
manifolds, up pipe (2 sides), down pipe, main exhaust run, then the EGR and EGR cooler. Am I missing any other parts of the exhaust system? Is reprogramming needed after trashing the EGR?
I just rebuilt my transmission about a year ago because I was going to replace my transfer case and figure I might as well put new clutch plates in while the transfer case was out. That is a "fun" job to do alone.
Your not missing anything, likely the gasket or bend has cracked, get rid of the egr, and clean all sensors while your at it.
WD40 good product but PB Blaster is amazing on rusted or stuck stuff.
Definitely
Im gonma do the hsp manifolds when they get them back in stock. Ill let you know what i think. Overall did the ppe ones lower egts?
Yes it averages around 80-100 less from what I noticed
Well Earl got confused
"Full install" and you only show one side... Lol. I am just having fun with you. Lol. I use your past and present install videos when I do stuff on my 06 cclb. Wonder what is coming next?
I’m hoping to install a upgraded radiator in the next one 👍
The other side is to see if we learned something! Lol!
😂😂
👍🏻
This will actually take 100 hours. Lol
😂😂
Mostly kidding but I did my truck with 150k on it and those 3 top downpipe bolts took me forever to get loose.
Man i wish I could be wearing a hoodie jeans and boots while i work, im in southern cali its so dam hot i can only get away with is a bikini and sandals. I freakin hate mosquitoes.
In phx and I feel your pain