I thought this was a good video, well worth publishing for sure. You really made an effort to keep moving and cover the relevant information. What lens did you use on the R6?
Thanks. I used the RF 35mm f/1.8 for everything except the last talking head part. I sent the 35mm back to B&H 2 days before I finished the video so I needed to use the EF 50mm at the end. Other then the mistake in the color grade, can you tell the difference between the 35 to start and the 50 to finish? I used C-log for the first time ever and somewhere along the way I must have shut it off while messing with the settings. I ended up shooting in the neutral picture profile at the end of the video.
@@faspete2nd I can see the difference between the start in the end now, since you pointed it out, but they are far enough apart that I didn't notice at the time. I think most of the time we notice things, or see our mistakes, when no one else really notices or cares. I think as long as the information is good the rest is probably secondary, at least in these tutorial style videos. BTW the footage with both lenses on the R6 was VERY good, I did notice that.
I'm looking forward to doing them. I think I want to do a APS-C "full frame equivalent" lense comparison with a full frame sensor comparison first. I have the EF-S 250mm and the 400mm 5.6 EF L along with the EF 50mm 1.8 with the Sigma 18-35 1.8. I've always wanted to compare this to see the difference in bokeh. You always hear the term full-frame equivalent when talking about APS-C sensors and full-frame sensors. Whatever I start with... I'm excited to start it.
Although I understand, I wouldn't be in a hurry to dismiss all of the modes offered by the M6 II. I recently started using Fv, which allows me to quickly dial between Aperture, Shutter, and ISO settings. I like to set Aperture and Shutter manually, and let ISO float on Auto. This is basically Manual mode with Auto ISO, but leaves the Manual mode free for fully manual shooting. That said, I really appreciate your series on the M6 II. Until you just showed it to me, I missed that there was a direct power port on the bottom of the battery :). Thanks.
2 corrections : 1. The Canon manual explains that FV = Flexible value mode allows you choose up to 2 of the 3 aperture /Shutter/ ISO settings and it will set the 3rd accordingly. 2. That mark on the top of the camera - the circle with the line through it is not the middle of the camera it indicates the location of the film plane or in this case the CCD if you are taking photos macro photos where knowing the exact distance from the CCD to the subject may be critical.
Thank you for the corrections. Question...is the film plane or the CCD not the sensors location? So if you see the circle with the line through it on top of the camera and an exact measurement is needed for macro work can't this mark be used to get that measurement?
I have a question! I own the Canon M6 Mark II and the Tokina atx-i 11-66mm F2.8 CF. I'm wondering if I buy the speedbooster Do you think my Tokina will work it? The Tokina has a EF mount but it is made for a APS-C cameras. Because my Tokina 11*1.6 crop = 17.6 mm but with the speedbooster should be 11mm * 1.6 * .71 = 12 mm. Thanks (English not my first language)
Yes, but with a wide angle lens like that you might get vignetting at the 11-28mm focal lengths. It should work as long as your speed booster is EF-EF-M adapter. If you do buy one make sure you are able to return it if the vignetting is too strong for you at the wider angles.
@Driven Latino the viltrox worked great and it's much less then the Metabones! When I sold my M50 I sold the speed booster with it. When I had it it never came off the camera once I realized what it could do. Now that I have the R6 I no longer need to buy another one.
if you have APS-C lens, even if it uses EF mount, or any other full-frame mount, it will produce an APS-C-sized image circle, so if you add a speed booster to it you will get heavy vignetting, if not completely black corners; it may be ok-ish on the telephoto end, but even there it's a bit of a gamble; here's a graph: www.newsshooter.com/2013/01/14/metabones-speed-booster-adapter-gives-lenses-an-extra-fstop-and-nearly-full-frame-focal-lengths-on-aps-c-sensors/ as far as Viltrox: it's worse quality than Metabones (both image quality and build quality), so if you want it for landscape, where you want everything in focus and sharp, Viltrox is a bad choice, if you want it for portraits, and and you'll be using it with fast lenses (faster than the Tokina), or more telephoto (like 130mm or bigger), then the image imperfections will be lost in bokeh anyway (Viltrox has decent centre, it's the corners that are quite bad)
That is a difficult question to answer without knowing your budget, use, and needs. Are you doing studio work, vlog stuff, are you mainly outside or inside. Do you want to be connected to the mic or go wireless. Are you looking for a camera mounted mic or lav mic you connect to your shirt. You can go with a budget wired lav like a Boya or on camera budget mic like the Takstar. You can go wireless and get the Rode wireless Go with the lav. You can also go with an upgrade studio/camera mounted mic like the Deity V-Mic D3 Pro. Or you can cover both sides of the camera with the Deity Duo. There are so many options. I hope this gives you a staring point and questions to consider before you make a purchase. I would look at both Deity and Rode. You also need to consider your voice and both mics will have slightly different sound based on your voice. If you purchase one make sure the return policy of the company is good so if you don't like the sound of your voice on that specific mic you bought you can return it and get another one from a different company.
Thanks! What camera are you using? Are you having any problems with the Lexar SD card with the camera? Every once and a while when I put it in the M6 Mark II I get an error saying that the camera can not read the card. The one you see in the video is good, but I recently bought 4 more and every one gives me the same error. If I turn the camera off and on a few times sometimes the card works, but it's not consistent. Just curious.
@@ApexFuturesTrader I wonder why this is happening. Maybe it's time to switch cards. I've never had a problem with the cards before until this new batch was purchased.
Stefan is correct. If you want to shoot 4K video you have to turn the mode dial to the video icon on the top of the camera and make sure your video shooting mode is set to 4K.
A "quick" brushup, thanks! I never noticed that mode between A(Automatic) and SCN(Scene). Keep up your good work!
Thanks. This camera reveals something new to me every time I look at it and use it.
I thought it was informative. Thank you for Sharing!
Glad it was helpful!
Did I miss anything? Let me know in the comments below.
Great video, clear and concise 👍
Much appreciated!
nice camera I enjoyed ur videos 👍
Happy to see u friend and good luck
Thank you! You too!
I thought this was a good video, well worth publishing for sure. You really made an effort to keep moving and cover the relevant information. What lens did you use on the R6?
Thanks. I used the RF 35mm f/1.8 for everything except the last talking head part. I sent the 35mm back to B&H 2 days before I finished the video so I needed to use the EF 50mm at the end. Other then the mistake in the color grade, can you tell the difference between the 35 to start and the 50 to finish? I used C-log for the first time ever and somewhere along the way I must have shut it off while messing with the settings. I ended up shooting in the neutral picture profile at the end of the video.
@@faspete2nd I can see the difference between the start in the end now, since you pointed it out, but they are far enough apart that I didn't notice at the time. I think most of the time we notice things, or see our mistakes, when no one else really notices or cares. I think as long as the information is good the rest is probably secondary, at least in these tutorial style videos. BTW the footage with both lenses on the R6 was VERY good, I did notice that.
Nice walkthrough 😊👍🏼 Looking forward to the comparison videos 😊
I'm looking forward to doing them. I think I want to do a APS-C "full frame equivalent" lense comparison with a full frame sensor comparison first. I have the EF-S 250mm and the 400mm 5.6 EF L along with the EF 50mm 1.8 with the Sigma 18-35 1.8. I've always wanted to compare this to see the difference in bokeh. You always hear the term full-frame equivalent when talking about APS-C sensors and full-frame sensors. Whatever I start with... I'm excited to start it.
Thanks Peter for the informative video as always 👍
Thanks. I messed up with the R6 recording, but I think I figured it out.
Although I understand, I wouldn't be in a hurry to dismiss all of the modes offered by the M6 II. I recently started using Fv, which allows me to quickly dial between Aperture, Shutter, and ISO settings. I like to set Aperture and Shutter manually, and let ISO float on Auto. This is basically Manual mode with Auto ISO, but leaves the Manual mode free for fully manual shooting. That said, I really appreciate your series on the M6 II. Until you just showed it to me, I missed that there was a direct power port on the bottom of the battery :). Thanks.
2 corrections : 1. The Canon manual explains that FV = Flexible value mode allows you choose up to 2 of the 3 aperture /Shutter/ ISO settings and it will set the 3rd accordingly.
2. That mark on the top of the camera - the circle with the line through it is not the middle of the camera it indicates the location of the film plane or in this case the CCD if you are taking photos macro photos where knowing the exact distance from the CCD to the subject may be critical.
Thank you for the corrections. Question...is the film plane or the CCD not the sensors location? So if you see the circle with the line through it on top of the camera and an exact measurement is needed for macro work can't this mark be used to get that measurement?
@@faspete2nd Hi, yes that us exactly what it is for, rather than the being the centre of the camera..
I have a question! I own the Canon M6 Mark II and the Tokina atx-i 11-66mm F2.8 CF. I'm wondering if I buy the speedbooster Do you think my Tokina will work it? The Tokina has a EF mount but it is made for a APS-C cameras. Because my Tokina 11*1.6 crop = 17.6 mm but with the speedbooster should be 11mm * 1.6 * .71 = 12 mm. Thanks (English not my first language)
Yes, but with a wide angle lens like that you might get vignetting at the 11-28mm focal lengths. It should work as long as your speed booster is EF-EF-M adapter. If you do buy one make sure you are able to return it if the vignetting is too strong for you at the wider angles.
@@faspete2nd Do you recommended the Viltrox? I’m watching your video where you explain the true focal length has to be multiple by 1.136 . Thanks 🙏
@Driven Latino the viltrox worked great and it's much less then the Metabones! When I sold my M50 I sold the speed booster with it. When I had it it never came off the camera once I realized what it could do. Now that I have the R6 I no longer need to buy another one.
if you have APS-C lens, even if it uses EF mount, or any other full-frame mount, it will produce an APS-C-sized image circle, so if you add a speed booster to it you will get heavy vignetting, if not completely black corners; it may be ok-ish on the telephoto end, but even there it's a bit of a gamble; here's a graph: www.newsshooter.com/2013/01/14/metabones-speed-booster-adapter-gives-lenses-an-extra-fstop-and-nearly-full-frame-focal-lengths-on-aps-c-sensors/
as far as Viltrox: it's worse quality than Metabones (both image quality and build quality), so if you want it for landscape, where you want everything in focus and sharp, Viltrox is a bad choice, if you want it for portraits, and and you'll be using it with fast lenses (faster than the Tokina), or more telephoto (like 130mm or bigger), then the image imperfections will be lost in bokeh anyway (Viltrox has decent centre, it's the corners that are quite bad)
What external mic would you recommend? Thanks!
That is a difficult question to answer without knowing your budget, use, and needs. Are you doing studio work, vlog stuff, are you mainly outside or inside. Do you want to be connected to the mic or go wireless. Are you looking for a camera mounted mic or lav mic you connect to your shirt. You can go with a budget wired lav like a Boya or on camera budget mic like the Takstar. You can go wireless and get the Rode wireless Go with the lav. You can also go with an upgrade studio/camera mounted mic like the Deity V-Mic D3 Pro. Or you can cover both sides of the camera with the Deity Duo. There are so many options. I hope this gives you a staring point and questions to consider before you make a purchase. I would look at both Deity and Rode. You also need to consider your voice and both mics will have slightly different sound based on your voice. If you purchase one make sure the return policy of the company is good so if you don't like the sound of your voice on that specific mic you bought you can return it and get another one from a different company.
Great content as always! 👍👍👍
I have the same SD card! 😀
Thanks! What camera are you using? Are you having any problems with the Lexar SD card with the camera? Every once and a while when I put it in the M6 Mark II I get an error saying that the camera can not read the card. The one you see in the video is good, but I recently bought 4 more and every one gives me the same error. If I turn the camera off and on a few times sometimes the card works, but it's not consistent. Just curious.
@@faspete2nd Yes, I get the same error on my Canon EOS M6 MKII .
@@ApexFuturesTrader I wonder why this is happening. Maybe it's time to switch cards. I've never had a problem with the cards before until this new batch was purchased.
@@faspete2nd I got the problem on day one. But no problem at all with my Canon EOS R.
Very help full video
I have a canon m6 mark ii but i can't
take 4k video.
It's a 4K camera. Why can't you get 4K out of it?
Hope u did a S/w upgrade
@@jineeshpr the firmware update should not effect the 4K. It just added the ability to shoot 24fps when shooting in NTSC mode.
Are you in video mode? In photo mode you are only able to record 1080p video.
Stefan is correct. If you want to shoot 4K video you have to turn the mode dial to the video icon on the top of the camera and make sure your video shooting mode is set to 4K.
Hello can you make video how to shoot at night with best quality?
Peter can you use the M6 with a trigger on the camera and say a godox strobe?
I am not sure. I have never used a strobe before.
👍👍👍💯👌👌👌
Thank!