Fun fact. You guys installed my gen 3 charger and it works wonderfully with my wifi network. No issues whatsoever. It was the blue tesla unit and you guys have a video of it :-)
Tip - many IoT devices are 2.4Ghz, including the Tesla Gen 3. To have a happy experience turn off the 5Ghz network, do your pairing, and then turn the 5Ghz back on - if they are separate don't try using the 5Ghz network.
2.4ghz is perfect for most and I wouldn't want that to change. Typically they don't need a lot of throughput and benefit better from the extra distance the signal travels on 2.4ghz
I had to do this a few weeks ago when connecting a WiFi smart plug, total pain heading to silence the 5Ghz to complete the pairing, then remembering to put it back.
If you want to coil cables so that they don’t twist the cores internally you need to ‘figure of 8’ the cable. This means that you reverse the direction of each alternate turn as you coil the cable. Then when you pull the cable away from where it is coiled it will always come away straight and not twist the internal cores. When people coil up a cable around their hand and elbow it guarantees a damaging twist to the internal cores because each turn reinforces the twist of the previous turn.
When doing record engineering cables have a memory, any forcing will damage the core so we always use loose coils basically the way they were originally packaged so forcing a figure of 8 I'd say also isn't ideal. Studios have cables that are used and stowed numerous time and last decades.
Great video. "IT specialist" here. I think the problem you probably have with connecting the unit to WiFi is just poor signal strength. This is probably why the problem you're experiencing is "intermittent" and why you couldn't replicate the problem whilst recording. It will largely be situational depending on the location of the wireless access point you're trying to connect the charging point to. The Tesla wall charger also only supports 2.4GHz frequencies so wireless networks which broadcast the same network name (SSID) on both 2.4 and 5GHz frequencies "may" have issues connecting if the access point tries to prioritise the 5GHz bands. If that's the case, you can disable 5GHz temporarily on the access point / router to pair the wall charger and then turn the 5GHz radio back on after, however this requires a little IT know how. I think the mistake Tesla made was to only provide an option for WiFi connectivity to connect the unit to the internet as supposed to providing an RJ45 ethernet connection. Yes it's an extra cable, however you're running a cable for power anyway so why not provide the option. The decision to not include this in their unit was probably one of cost I suspect... however on a £450 unit, an extra £10-£20 is insignificant. Hopefully Tesla include this in their next revision. Great video guys, big fan.
they fit loads of brands... I'm guessing others connect easier and if you are by the charger its easy to see wifi by just looking at your phone and if that connects and the charger unit doesn't then its not signal strength.
Access Points or wireless routers only prioritise 5Ghz over 2.4GHz if the client supports both. It’s prioritised on a per client basis, not a global basis. I’m sorry to say that it is not relevant here as the Tesla unit only supports 2.4GHz which means it wont even see the 5GHz band so it certainly wont try and connect to it.
"IT Specialist" here. Just to fly in and say that the charger sucks. I've places the router right next to the charger (within 0.4m) and it still disconnects from the wifi and takes at least 20 minutes to connect via the Tesla App. Resetting the charger is impossible because I can't remove the charger from my app myself and reconnecting it whenever it disconnects is a huge pain. Also, it doesn't charge. Will be requesting a refund from Tesla.
Really enjoyed this one 😂 Jordan’s noise/laugh when the drill hits bullseye. The noise when the rake hits Reuben’s head. The slating of the customers new pride and joy. What’s not to like?!
Before I had my Tesla wall charger V2 installed, I installed a mesh network node in the garage, right next to the wall charger and another node in my bedroom above the garage (the garage node is too far away, and has too many walls to go through to get to the router so... The router node talks to the bedroom node, then the signal goes through the floor to the garage node. I have 6 nodes in total spread around the house level. Never had a problem EVER. Maybe Mr Artisan you might like to install a mesh network as well as the wall charger at very site - they work brilliantly. The Gateway, Powerwall and Inverter can all use it as well as your phone.
I've had similar experiences with embedded/smart devices and WiFi networks. If your WiFi is dual band (5 & 2.4 GHz), try disabling the 5GHz when doing the pairing. I have no idea why but sometimes that helps.
@@henryeadie7972 Most of these embedded devices don't have 5GHz radios, so they wouldn't try to to connect to that signal, but somehow it seems they effect each other.
@@henryeadie7972 Here is an example, a car pulls beside you with the Subwoofers cranked, thump, thump thump, but you hear no vocals. It is difficult to isolate or stop Bass from going through structure, trees, buildings etc. So, in an open field 5.0 GHz will travel much further than 900 MHz or even 2.4 GHz. The higher the frequency the larger the bandwidth, the more data that can be carried in a given period of time. That is why a 900 MHz Router may be able to service and entire home and with a 5.0 GHz Router you may need a Mesh Router with 2 Remotes to cover the same area adequately.
@@Dries007BE Usually what happens is the device you are using to pair IoT device is on the 5 Ghz network and passes that to the the Iot device, which of course it can't use so doesn't pair. Lifx Globes are classic example of this.
It’s probably the dual band 5GHz sharing 2.4GHz and 5GHz. Happens a lot with Smart Home and IoT, they come with a cheap wifi chip that can’t determine or filter out which BSSID is the 2.4GHz to use. If they request the connection and get the 5GHz, it just times out instead of connecting. And it doesn’t know why it failed, because it is cheap, ie it doesn’t attempt the next MAC radio Device or understand how to. Usually it’s something like an ESP8266 chip, $1 or less. So it just tries to reconnect to 5GHz again as it’s in the top of the list of connecting MAC radios, ie the strongest signal or best to connect with when you have a shared broadcast name with 2-10+ repeaters that all announce themselves with the same channel name. Because the names are identical, they have to know the MAC and connect to the MAC, not the Name. The problem is repeaters won’t work if you hard-connect to a single MAC, and if the router changes then you have to re-register the WiFi. It’s why people recommend a legacy 2.4GHz channel name on the router for connecting old/cheap devices that can’t differentiate and only work on 2.4GHz or 802.11b/g
Agree. If it has to be signed up with a phone, always go 2.4Ghz. Most home routers have out of the box one signal that is supposed to support 2.4 and 5 but that is not the case as most IoT devices dont seem to work . So the only way its to create two different wifi connections for 2.4 and 5.
@@B_T_B Rather not recommend that for regular use 2 separate SSID's for 2.4/5Ghz, but instead create an extra 2.4 Ghz network on a separate SSID for IOT devices that don't support 2.4/5Ghz mixed in one SSID.
Could be the density of the network too. I do a lot of IoT and esp8266 and some eps32 don't like high density networks so I just keep my it wifi at VT20s
I got the gen 3 mostly based on your original video and have had 0 issues with it. I do have it on a 2.5g only wifi network which fixes the issue of connecting it.
It's not about the wrapped cable's untidy look only, the cable sheathing itself will begin to look shabby within quite a short time due to scraping against the rough bricks every time winding and unwinding it.
From an Electrical Engineer that has migrated to becoming a WiFi Engineer full time now. You need to make sure the customers router has the low data rates enabled to allow communication at distances outdoors. Some routers will have BAND steering turned on meaning client devices that have 2.4Gghz and 5Ghz (IPhone) will use 5Ghz and this stops the iphone configuring the device that is ONLY 2.4Ghz. The trick is to disable 5Ghz on the customers router when you are configuring. I like to configure separate SSID per Frequency in customers router. The reason this install went well this time was you were probably far enough away from customers router 2.4Ghz was the preferred connection for your phone. Inside you office 5Ghz was probably the preferred connection. You see this same issue when trying to pair 2.4Ghz light globes to WiFi networks with i phones.
@@deang5622 The fact that the Gen 3 is ONLY 2.4Ghz is exactly the issue. If the IPHONE configuring the device is on 5Ghz and the Tesla Gen 3 is on 2.4 then the configuration fails right at the end. disabling 5Ghz makes the phone go on 2.4Ghz and the Tesla 2.4 Ghz and the configuration works. In this video the phone was far enough away from the router that 2.4Ghz was a better signal so the phone was connected to 2.4Ghz and having both on 2.4Ghz it all works. In the reason why in the office it was not working was the Phone would have been connected at 5Ghz to WiFi as it was close to the office router. Both devices need to be on the same frequency WiFI for the initial config and then after that phone can be on 5Ghz as the connection is via the WiFi not the WiFi Direct connection at startup with QR code.
I have two of these and both connected. What I learned with both of them is you connect to the WiFi and wait for it to connect. Both connected and updated on their own after about 30 minutes.
That stuffing gland beneath the Permali box is begging to be the source of trouble. When the first heavy rain comes in that direction it will run down that wall and into the PEN loss detector box and probably cause a fire. You should have used a 25mm adaptor and a piece of 25mm conduit glued in to create a watertight seal.
'first heavy rain', 'probably cause a fire'. Talk about overstating the risk. The chances are you could have it that way for a million years without causing a fire.
@@sailingoctopus1 I'm an electrician with 40 years in the industry, I didn't take the time to write that because it's a hypothetical chance. It WILL happen!
Regarding the extra ”kit” that you claimed is needed like the PEN faulr protection. Isn’t this due to the way you choose to connect this charger? Normally you would feed it of the main distribution from the house which already should have the PEN protection right? The Tesla WC has the inbuilt RCD, typ A + DC 6 mA protection specifically needed for this application (charging an EV). As the Tesla has built in planning for when you want to charge etc I would say it’s optimized price wise for what is needed together with a Tesla car. The Wi-Fi problem you had is due to weak Wi-Fi signal from the customer in this case…
@@JoshuaBurgess I have their inverter as well, and it communicates with the charger to maximize the use of solar for the car. Very pleased with the system so far 👍
Very much so! It isn't just 'old-school' to think that, but in terms of performance (with only a few exceptions, bandwidth can suffer if 'line impedance' isn't carefully matched) wired is the most trouble free, secure and highest performing way to do things.
is it possible to run a cat5 cable, possibly using data over power adaptors? Do any other of the chargers have wired data connection? expecting a customer to have a wifi extender is a bit much. if chargers are wifi only, how many have 5GHz, so less likely to get interference than 2.4GHz
The Australian Tesla wall charger installation instructions specifically stated NO POWER LINE NETWORKS. They had to install a new transmitter near the router, and a repeater in the garage. Once they got it all up and running, and then left, I ripped it all out and used my own mesh network. I tried to explain to the chinese workers, but they had a blank look on their faces.
Your WIFI commissioning problem, if you are mounting the Charge Point outside, may actually be the windows on the house. If the house has newer windows and they have Low-E coating on them you will likely have an issue. The Low-E coating can inhibit WIFI signals. I experienced this on my house. I was having trouble with my WIFI in the backyard, finally I actually added an additional access point and mounted it on a little shelf in the window of my workshop, on the inside! Still had shitty WIFI, as soon as I opened the window and moved the access point outside the window, boom, fabulous WIFI. Ended up getting an outdoor access point and installing it on the side of the garage.
Uhm don't know about euro electric systems. The Tesla charger already has a GFCI system that already and when you add another system with same design with each other and will not operate properly.
Normally devices for IoT have cheaper wifi chips since they don't have lot of traffic which normally don't support high density networks so that could be the issue. Another issue would be mixing 5Ghz with 2.4Ghz since most cheaper wifi chips only support 2.4Ghz and when you do a internet connection if you don't ask the router for the correct connection it might get messy fast and delay the connection. For my network since I do a lot of IoT I have a different wifi network called IoT which is a low density 2.4Ghz network with legacy support. I have a ubiquiti network setup so I have everything supported in my home but for most common households having different wifis or network setups might not be possible so it might cause some problems for some connections.
Was looking for what voltage and amperage a Tesla charged at. I was an electrician in the USA and looking for how the chargers are wired. Hopefully we won't need all the equipment you show to hook up chargers. Have seen many home chargers that hook up to a 240V 30 amp or 50 amp receptacle with a plug.
Jordan in the spec sheet the Telsta Wall Connector is only 2.4ghz 802.11b/g/n. Some wifi combine the 2.4 and 5 ghz networks on the one SSID. This can confuse devices with only 2.4, Next time you have issues login to the router, not the rooter (I'm an Aussie). And select the setting to isolate the 2.4 and 5ghz, or uncombine them. Every router is different. Keep up the good work.
You might find it's an issue between 2.4ghz and 5ghz connecting problems. I split my WiFi so I can choose which one I need to connect to as some amazon sticks don't work well on 5ghz WiFi so I wonder if this is the problem artisan?
Pretty sure that is it. Hey had trouble in the office, probably in range of the 5ghz. They did it outside here, brick walls block most of the 5ghz so it would have defaulted to 2.4 which made the installation painless. High chance if they tried id near the wifi accesspoint it would have given trouble too
I bought a 24" x 24" lockbox into which my electrician installed the Tesla Wall EVSE at the driveway. So, the EVSE is never seen by anyone and the box looks great. I don't have wifi at my house, so I didn't try to connect to the EVSE, and my electrician told me that these units "self commission" so no need to fuss with wifi at all. ( USA ). Also, I have been told that the GEN3 units have never been sent OTAs. My takeaway is: no need to let wifi ruin your day, mate.
I wrote on your first ver3 vs ver2 charger video. An electrician myself. I have installed versions 3s. There has never been a problem getting the wifi set up. The customer does it anyway. I just had a customer link up 2 of them sharing on one 60a circuit and he did it with not much trouble. Munro live did a overview and found the design to be very well executed.
Tech stuff, we have the same issue in the cctv/intruder alarm security industry, the old school guys are great at running cables but really struggle with the modern connectivity, apps etc.
The problem with wifi is almost universally related to the router configuration... Signal not strong enough, signal strong but too noisy to be useful (both related to the distance between the router and the device), router configured in a non standard way, repeaters in the way, etc...
Yes figure of “8” the cable to avoid damage over time. This will also avoid EMF in other instances where flex is not fully unwound. Probably better to have some kind of separate bracket next to the charger to allow figure of “8” and make the charger look uncluttered. Agree about mastic to stop water running into the charger board but would have installed a bush and coupler. Good job though lads.
Fig 8 will make ZERO difference to "EMF". If you have conductors next to each other carrying equal and opposite currents (such as Live and Neutral for example) their magnetic fields will cancel out so no inductance. The fig 8 myth came from coiled cables becoming hot and people believing that to be due to inductance, IT ISN'T it's simply down to resistive heating and inability of heat to escape, Fig 8 creates more air gaps and a larger surface area for heat to escape.
@@mfx1 When you think about it, that makes sense about the inductance Martin, so I have to agree with you annoyingly. In my defence, hanging by my finger tips, maybe the figure of 8 would help with resistive load heat build up, because it’s 2 coils effectively, and also reversing the could will lessen the internal damage to twisted cores. Humble pie has been eaten. (Going to test it though)
I used the Garo PEN fault detection system last year on a hot tub installation. When the hot tub company delivered and commissioned the hot tub, they had never come across this before. Great content as always.
Tesla, like apple, only like doing things their way. The template suggests the backplate only be fitted with two screws, if going for a rear cable entry then the two screws are on one side, which can make the unit wobble a bit. They provide their own shaped screw heads which round off. The carbide terminal screws really affect the test readings so you have to awkwardly get the probes in. The tether, as Jordan mentioned, does its own thing and will not coil up neatly. Not to mention the PEN fault detection device needed or the annoying WiFi restraints and commissioning app!
Please correct me when i am wrong,but isnt it cheap to do it like this,because there is no KwH meter in that box??Or am i wrong because i am a dutch electrician.Have i mist it about the meter?
Is that cable the standard length? I want to install on front of house. I will then drive Tesla Y onto drive. The charging point will be at the front right of car. Will the cable be long enough to go across front of car and then along the length to the changing point of Tesla Y? Thanks a lot, great video
I like Jordan. It's humble to watch him apologise for being OCD about his work, the Tesla charging cable being a good example! It's the difference between a run-of-the-mill Electrician and an Artisan. Another great video and fair play Jordan, you've taken over well from Corey in teaching Reuben. Looking forward to seeing Corey back in for an episode or maybe two or three? Keep up the mighty work folks 👍
I have a 6yr old Mennekes charger. Electrician moved it for me to a new home, but was super hesitant....talked about lack of 6mA protection for example. What's the deal here...is it safe, should a PEN fault dectector be enough to resolve v a new charger?
There might be. It depends where the fault occurs. If the fault occurs downstream from the RCD in the EV charger, then either the RCD in the charger or the RCBO in the CU is going to trip, but you don't know which one. The user will be protected against electrocution but the question is what circuit and loads in the house are going to be powered down when the RCBO in the CU trips.
Here in the USA, our options are limited to the Tesla EVSE wall connector if you don't want to have to use clunky adapters for your Tesla. The Tesla plug is so much smaller here than the CCS plug there. I know there is actually a federal push to adopt the Tesla plug on all EVs here in the USA ironically enough. Doubt that will really go anywhere but its strange. We also don't need PEN fault detection, as we don't run a neutral to the charger, only the split phase L1/L2 and ground. The only requirement we have which was new in 2020 was the use of GFCI, in which the Telsa charger does have built in. So that actually saves money here. I haven't seen the WiFi issues here at least, so not sure what is happening. The charger does integrate into Home Assistant so stats on a dashboard is nice. I wish it did have a nice display on it.
L1 and L2 are each 120 Volts 180 degrees out of phase from each other. I prefer the US Electrical code and would much rather get bit by 120 volts than 220 or 240 volts.
@@michaelholliday100 lol yep that’s for sure. Can’t count the number of times I have been reminded of doing something I shouldn’t be doing on live circuits. 😂
Hey Jordan, I just had a look at the Tesla spec. It only supports 2.4Ghz b/g/n WiFi… modern/newer WiFi protocol is on 5Ghz band… so if you aren’t running 2.4Ghz in your office, the charger won’t find your WiFi network 👍🏼
Its not really correct to say "newer WiFi protocol is 5Ghz", as the protocol is a different thing and a good WiFi 6 router actually does WiFi 6 on 2.4Ghz too, so both radios are actually on the most modern protocol. Not to mention that 6Ghz is the latest WiFi frequency now and 5Ghz WiFi has existed almost as long as 2.4Ghz, it just wasn't as commonly used when hardly anyone had WiFi so interference wasn't an issue. That said, most devices on 2.4Ghz will be WiFi 4 because its cheaper to implement (2.4Ghz never was upgraded to WiFi 5/AC).
Depending on how its configured some US wifi devices won't operate on channels above 11 (Different countires limit use of higher channels). Forcing the Wifi router onto a lower channel can solve this. Wouldn't expect tesla to have this issue as surely they must adjust it to the local country/region. But I have deff encountered this before when using wifi enabled devices from the USA in the UK. Particularly when people have forced their wifi onto one of these higher channels to avoid interference with neighbouring wifi routers/hotspots. Would link to the wikipedia page of compatability but not sure I can post links here?
I posted a comment below with a link to a tesla forum confirming the above, but it was deleted due to an external link. Seems they disable some of the 2.4GHz channels eg. 12+ as these are disallowed in the USA. Odd they don't tailor this to the EU market!
I've noticed two earth/cpc conductors being wired in the top of the contactor. This must be the armored earth and the fly lead going to the armoring. They looked liked two different sizes? 4mm for the armored and 2.5 for the fly lead. Are you allowed to use different sizes on the same screw terminal for that specific contactor ?
The tesla unit has inbuilt dc leakage. The megger mft 1742+ which is the tester they are using does an auto dc leakage test, worryingly its the bit when Jordan says he didn't know the mft did it
Further comment. My charger is INSIDE my garage, as is my Tesla Model Y. Garages are for cars, first & foremost. I am, admittedly, lucky enough to have a 6.5m long garage, but WHY do people want chargers installed on exterior walls? If you are absent from your home, on holiday or whatever, there is nothing to prevent a total stranger using your charger.
It’s totally a Wi-Fi router issue. It’s 2.4ghz only and a lot of stock routers like virgin / by / sky have issues with dual 2.4 and 5ghz with the same name. Separate them and you are golden - or use a decent mesh Wi-Fi.
Easiest way to stop brick blow out especially if your going through a brick outer wall from the inside is getting yourself a 300mm x 300mm x 18mm ply and if there are 2 of you on site get your mate to hold the board against the wall over the area the drill will punch through and it will stop blow out but it won't punch through the plywood.
I work in IT and IoT devices have always been a "hit-or-miss" when it comes to joining a wifi network. It took about 3 attempts to get my Tesla wall connector joined to my network. Plus, it really doesn't gain much besides updating the firmware. I was expecting more from them. At least you have more options than in the US. Here, Tesla uses a proprietary connector, so if you don't use their unit, you need to fiddle with adapters.
If you have like cisco or Ubiquiti or other enterprise level hardware you should be able to make a different network with low density and legacy support for 2.4Ghz which normally should support any chip and possibly fix the issue with the tesla thing.
@@antoniogoncalves705 I have ubiquiti hardware and I cannot for the life of me get compatible signals for some IoT devices. In case it is useful to anyone... a workaround I have is... temporarily rename my real connection SSID... get an old basic router and name it what the original network SSID was called.... connect your devices... turn off old router and rename the SSID back to original. Works a treat (only have to do this the odd time i encounter a new IoT device that I have trouble with)
@@ciaranflynn6291 I never had issues after configuring my network properly. What devices are you trying to connect? Do you have legacy support for 2.4Ghz network or IoT network if you have one. What channel width do you use for 2.4Ghz? Do you SSIDs have weird chars?
I don't get that PEN fault protection. I see no such thing on TESLA wallbox mounting instructions. Is that if PE and N are on a single conductor? I don't see how can one lose N and PE at the same time. In Portugal i have never seen such a thing. N is always provided by the network along with L1-L3 (4 wires) and PE is from the house installation and always separated from N. Actually we use differential breakers that sense the return current on N against the one on L and if it senses a drop in current (0.030-0.300A) meaning that current is bleeding through PE than it opens up and isolates that circuit totally (all 4 conductors). For single phase same thing but with L1 alone
is it beater to mount the unit on the wall , then take it off the wall before you drill the hole for the cable then your not expediently going to damage the case.
with respect to the WiFi issue, a lot of these chipsets have issues with combined 2.4/5GHz wifi routers, where both 2.4 and 5 are the same SSID (wifi name). Try asking the customer to disable the 5Ghz for a few minutes until it is set up, then re-enable...
As an "IT Specialist" lol. You might have had issues with your WiFi in your office due to 2.4GHz vs 5GHz compatibility with the charger. Some prefer 5GHz over 2.4GHz however, the charger may not fully support 5GHz. Regarding the earth protection: With an external mounted charger like this, could one not just install an earth rod near the charger dedicated to the charger and not use the CPC from the main supply? Other than the car, what other extraneous metal could the customer touch when unplugging the car? Does that meet the regs?
Meanwhile over here in the colonies (USA - Alabama) I just wired it to my 100 amp sub-panel in my garage MYSELF, a licensed electrician friend checked my work and NO SMOKE. YEA. I commissioned it to 32 amps, works fine for our needs. Gen 2 Wall Connector.
My advice: a. Never update firmware when connected to a powerbank. NEVER. b. Once connected to the device, perform anoffline firmware update. c. Once latest SW is installed succesfully, power the device OFF, wait 10s, power On and continue with configuration and WiFI pairing with the house network, on a 2.4GHz network. Keep in mind the TWC has a 1x1 wifi antenne configuration, so proximity to the access point/router is quite important
Hi, has it got a CT clamp to monitor the house consumption and ramp down the car charging if it exeeds the maximum rating? Can it be installed on a 60A main fuse? Thanks.
Agreed; if they're going to put that much effort in to a snazzy design, having a mess of cable detracts... It's sort of like the fact that Dyson doesn't understand that auto-retracting cords are one of the biggest/best developments in vacuums in the last 20 years! You've got a super snazzy vacuum, but you're stuck manually winding cable around two hooks. I guess the designers @ Dyson don't actually do that much "hoovering". ;-) Mayybe you put the retracting cable into the car!!!
When I had a Zappi installed, as householder, I ran an Ethernet cable to the point where the Zappi would be installed. Hard wired is ALWAYS way more reliable!
Love this video, very informative and I like the way you coach your apprentice by testing him with knowledge questions during the installation! Where my switchbox is located is on the opposite side of house to my garage where tesla wall connector is to be installed. Just like you mentioned in the video, I thought the installation should be quite easy until my electrician told me it is gonna take a solid 4 -5 hours to do the wire routing properly.
Well all electricians aren't IT specialists... but some of us are. 13 years as IT engineer and helpdesk. Now I've been about four years as an electrician. Oh and I'm also licensed refrigerant service technician @ 6:33
I think the main issue with most Wifi enabled IoT equipment is that it dont play well if there is one Wifi network using both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz, the 2.4Ghz is used still for most wifi enabled devices and thus it prefers a dedicated 2.4Ghz network band, so try asking the customer to separate the wifi into two different SSIDs operating at different bands respectively
We often have issues connecting chargers via wifi, much prefer hardwired but many have gotten rid of the hardwired possibility such as the Anderson. It is definitely a shame as many customers have called about their cars not charging in the last few days as the lightning storms have played havoc with peoples wifi.
Find the charger on the router's controls (2.4GHz band), then set the IP address as reserved. Can you also fix the IP on the charger via its portal? Best this way as it doesn't have to try to negotiate a connection - just use the fixed one you set.
@@hks-lion I know you shouldn’t have to. Indeed you don’t, however why waste process time with the address negotiation exercise when you can simply lock in the address. It avoids any other device pinching the address if it comes up first after any outage.
@@herrtomas6729 reserving an address does not skip the "address negotiation exercise", the client device still has to ask for an address, get offered an address (the reserved one) and then accept it.
My car is one meter away from the charger... I would actually like to have a short cable instead... would look way better! But Tesla doesnt offer that anymore :( Would it be able to shorten it?
Ok listen up people..I have in the last 2 hours just commissioned a Tesla Gen 3 Wall connector. Everything went well apart from connecting the gen3 to the home Wi-Fi network. After ALOT of trial and error I discovered it was not the TWC’s fault. The Wi-Fi was set to only accept WPA3 security connections. The TWC needs WPA2. So I literally toggled one function on my Eero software and it worked!!!!
The problem is your router. Routers especially from certain ISP are configured in a particular way OR not always implementing the standards properly. When i moved to a router that i purchased myself and connected directly to the ISP via PPoE all my devices worked flawlessly.
It quite possibly wouldn't connect to your office wifi during the training because your office wifi AP is only on 5Ghz, a lot of smart devices generally only use 2.4Ghz. I may be wrong but that sounds like the probable issue you experienced.
My wall connector got on WIFI just fine. Except now I cannot commission it with Tesla One app. The app simply will not connect even though the phone is connected to the Tesla wall connector.
is there anything you can do while controlling the wall connector with the app, that you could not already do in the car or the car's app? If not: why bother with the wifi on the wall connector...
Jordan, are you not able to put a side cable holder on the left hand side of the charger and then put it in place on the right side. You can have the roller on the left side of the charger with the last bit going to the side female placement to the charger. Just a thought!!!
The wifi connection is needed for updates and for load balancing if you have several units. Two functionally that most other charge points do not have.
You should get the freq right 2,4 vs. 5 is the key to your problem... Just a heads up. I have installed about 50isch of those and never a prob with the wifi...
I've had loads of issues at home connecting smart devices to things at home as they run on a 2.4ghz frequency. Where the WiFi router broadcasts both 2.4 and 5ghz, if my phone is required to setup the device then it will default to 5ghz frequency. To get around this you need to access the router and disable 5ghz while setting up your devices.
@@artisanelectrics Surely the PEN fault device is designed to save lives by doing a disconnect when there is a fault, but no way to test it means its pot luck if it works when it is needed.
@@sergiofernandez3725 It's not pot luck. You are relying on the manufacturer to test it at the time of manufacture. They should be testing it and if it doesn't work, they can't ship the product.
@@jocramkrispy305 In my opinion the 48V should be sufficient. It would be nice to know when the PEN fault protection should trip and simulate all that states. This sounds like a good inspiration to a video.
I was all set for a Tesla charger but when researched learned there was a loads of extra stuff that was required. My installer has recommended the Wallbox Pulsar Max - any thoughts on this charger from you guys at Artisan?
Get a quote for your EV charger install here: forms.openquote.net/company/artisanelectrics
Fun fact. You guys installed my gen 3 charger and it works wonderfully with my wifi network. No issues whatsoever. It was the blue tesla unit and you guys have a video of it :-)
I have install many of the Tesla Gen3 Wall Connector and have had zero issues with connectivity of the Gen3 Wall Connectors.
That is a very good looking charger!
@@artisanelectrics and finally got the matching car!!!
@@michaelholliday100 yeah but things working well makes for shit youtube views
Why not use ethernet cable . It's not difficult to put a socket on the thing
Tip - many IoT devices are 2.4Ghz, including the Tesla Gen 3. To have a happy experience turn off the 5Ghz network, do your pairing, and then turn the 5Ghz back on - if they are separate don't try using the 5Ghz network.
2.4ghz is perfect for most and I wouldn't want that to change. Typically they don't need a lot of throughput and benefit better from the extra distance the signal travels on 2.4ghz
I had to do this a few weeks ago when connecting a WiFi smart plug, total pain heading to silence the 5Ghz to complete the pairing, then remembering to put it back.
@@welshdave5263 just split your 5ghz and 2.4ghz channels and then only connect things to the one that is better for that device
And also the Tesla Gen3 (like many other IoT devices) also won't work with WPA3.
Need to have a network, or sub-network on WPA3
This. 2.4 GHz, 802.11b/g/n
Had a TWC Gen3 installed a few months ago. Paired the unit myself in 10 minutes and haven’t had a problem since. Quality bit of kit.
If you want to coil cables so that they don’t twist the cores internally you need to ‘figure of 8’ the cable. This means that you reverse the direction of each alternate turn as you coil the cable. Then when you pull the cable away from where it is coiled it will always come away straight and not twist the internal cores. When people coil up a cable around their hand and elbow it guarantees a damaging twist to the internal cores because each turn reinforces the twist of the previous turn.
I coil in an 8 around my hand and elbow
When doing record engineering cables have a memory, any forcing will damage the core so we always use loose coils basically the way they were originally packaged so forcing a figure of 8 I'd say also isn't ideal. Studios have cables that are used and stowed numerous time and last decades.
I was taught the figure of 8 things by a yachty. That's how he said they coil their ropes.
Great video. "IT specialist" here. I think the problem you probably have with connecting the unit to WiFi is just poor signal strength. This is probably why the problem you're experiencing is "intermittent" and why you couldn't replicate the problem whilst recording. It will largely be situational depending on the location of the wireless access point you're trying to connect the charging point to. The Tesla wall charger also only supports 2.4GHz frequencies so wireless networks which broadcast the same network name (SSID) on both 2.4 and 5GHz frequencies "may" have issues connecting if the access point tries to prioritise the 5GHz bands. If that's the case, you can disable 5GHz temporarily on the access point / router to pair the wall charger and then turn the 5GHz radio back on after, however this requires a little IT know how. I think the mistake Tesla made was to only provide an option for WiFi connectivity to connect the unit to the internet as supposed to providing an RJ45 ethernet connection. Yes it's an extra cable, however you're running a cable for power anyway so why not provide the option. The decision to not include this in their unit was probably one of cost I suspect... however on a £450 unit, an extra £10-£20 is insignificant. Hopefully Tesla include this in their next revision. Great video guys, big fan.
It is simple
they fit loads of brands... I'm guessing others connect easier and if you are by the charger its easy to see wifi by just looking at your phone and if that connects and the charger unit doesn't then its not signal strength.
Access Points or wireless routers only prioritise 5Ghz over 2.4GHz if the client supports both. It’s prioritised on a per client basis, not a global basis. I’m sorry to say that it is not relevant here as the Tesla unit only supports 2.4GHz which means it wont even see the 5GHz band so it certainly wont try and connect to it.
"IT Specialist" here. Just to fly in and say that the charger sucks. I've places the router right next to the charger (within 0.4m) and it still disconnects from the wifi and takes at least 20 minutes to connect via the Tesla App. Resetting the charger is impossible because I can't remove the charger from my app myself and reconnecting it whenever it disconnects is a huge pain.
Also, it doesn't charge. Will be requesting a refund from Tesla.
@@mhvdm Have you tried a mesh network instead ?
Really enjoyed this one 😂
Jordan’s noise/laugh when the drill hits bullseye. The noise when the rake hits Reuben’s head. The slating of the customers new pride and joy. What’s not to like?!
Classic
Before I had my Tesla wall charger V2 installed, I installed a mesh network node in the garage, right next to the wall charger and another node in my bedroom above the garage (the garage node is too far away, and has too many walls to go through to get to the router so... The router node talks to the bedroom node, then the signal goes through the floor to the garage node. I have 6 nodes in total spread around the house level. Never had a problem EVER. Maybe Mr Artisan you might like to install a mesh network as well as the wall charger at very site - they work brilliantly. The Gateway, Powerwall and Inverter can all use it as well as your phone.
I've had similar experiences with embedded/smart devices and WiFi networks. If your WiFi is dual band (5 & 2.4 GHz), try disabling the 5GHz when doing the pairing. I have no idea why but sometimes that helps.
5GHz doesn't penetrate walls as well as 2.4GHz so the range is often less, this is probably why
@@henryeadie7972 Most of these embedded devices don't have 5GHz radios, so they wouldn't try to to connect to that signal, but somehow it seems they effect each other.
@@henryeadie7972 Here is an example, a car pulls beside you with the Subwoofers cranked, thump, thump thump, but you hear no vocals. It is difficult to isolate or stop Bass from going through structure, trees, buildings etc. So, in an open field 5.0 GHz will travel much further than 900 MHz or even 2.4 GHz. The higher the frequency the larger the bandwidth, the more data that can be carried in a given period of time. That is why a 900 MHz Router may be able to service and entire home and with a 5.0 GHz Router you may need a Mesh Router with 2 Remotes to cover the same area adequately.
@@Dries007BE Usually what happens is the device you are using to pair IoT device is on the 5 Ghz network and passes that to the the Iot device, which of course it can't use so doesn't pair. Lifx Globes are classic example of this.
It’s probably the dual band 5GHz sharing 2.4GHz and 5GHz. Happens a lot with Smart Home and IoT, they come with a cheap wifi chip that can’t determine or filter out which BSSID is the 2.4GHz to use.
If they request the connection and get the 5GHz, it just times out instead of connecting. And it doesn’t know why it failed, because it is cheap, ie it doesn’t attempt the next MAC radio Device or understand how to. Usually it’s something like an ESP8266 chip, $1 or less.
So it just tries to reconnect to 5GHz again as it’s in the top of the list of connecting MAC radios, ie the strongest signal or best to connect with when you have a shared broadcast name with 2-10+ repeaters that all announce themselves with the same channel name.
Because the names are identical, they have to know the MAC and connect to the MAC, not the Name. The problem is repeaters won’t work if you hard-connect to a single MAC, and if the router changes then you have to re-register the WiFi.
It’s why people recommend a legacy 2.4GHz channel name on the router for connecting old/cheap devices that can’t differentiate and only work on 2.4GHz or 802.11b/g
Agree. If it has to be signed up with a phone, always go 2.4Ghz. Most home routers have out of the box one signal that is supposed to support 2.4 and 5 but that is not the case as most IoT devices dont seem to work . So the only way its to create two different wifi connections for 2.4 and 5.
@@B_T_B Rather not recommend that for regular use 2 separate SSID's for 2.4/5Ghz, but instead create an extra 2.4 Ghz network on a separate SSID for IOT devices that don't support 2.4/5Ghz mixed in one SSID.
Actually in this case, the Tesla 3rd Gen charger only supports 2.4GHz WiFi
Could be the density of the network too. I do a lot of IoT and esp8266 and some eps32 don't like high density networks so I just keep my it wifi at VT20s
This!!! so very true!!
I got the gen 3 mostly based on your original video and have had 0 issues with it. I do have it on a 2.5g only wifi network which fixes the issue of connecting it.
It's not about the wrapped cable's untidy look only, the cable sheathing itself will begin to look shabby within quite a short time due to scraping against the rough bricks every time winding and unwinding it.
From an Electrical Engineer that has migrated to becoming a WiFi Engineer full time now. You need to make sure the customers router has the low data rates enabled to allow communication at distances outdoors. Some routers will have BAND steering turned on meaning client devices that have 2.4Gghz and 5Ghz (IPhone) will use 5Ghz and this stops the iphone configuring the device that is ONLY 2.4Ghz. The trick is to disable 5Ghz on the customers router when you are configuring. I like to configure separate SSID per Frequency in customers router. The reason this install went well this time was you were probably far enough away from customers router 2.4Ghz was the preferred connection for your phone. Inside you office 5Ghz was probably the preferred connection. You see this same issue when trying to pair 2.4Ghz light globes to WiFi networks with i phones.
No, not in this case. The Tesla Gen 3 charger only supports 2.4GHz.
@@deang5622 The fact that the Gen 3 is ONLY 2.4Ghz is exactly the issue. If the IPHONE configuring the device is on 5Ghz and the Tesla Gen 3 is on 2.4 then the configuration fails right at the end. disabling 5Ghz makes the phone go on 2.4Ghz and the Tesla 2.4 Ghz and the configuration works. In this video the phone was far enough away from the router that 2.4Ghz was a better signal so the phone was connected to 2.4Ghz and having both on 2.4Ghz it all works. In the reason why in the office it was not working was the Phone would have been connected at 5Ghz to WiFi as it was close to the office router. Both devices need to be on the same frequency WiFI for the initial config and then after that phone can be on 5Ghz as the connection is via the WiFi not the WiFi Direct connection at startup with QR code.
@@charlesclare267 Yes I do know all of this. I do have a degree in Electronics.
I have two of these and both connected. What I learned with both of them is you connect to the WiFi and wait for it to connect. Both connected and updated on their own after about 30 minutes.
What EV charger do you recommend? Still the Hypervault?
Regarding pairing the wifi. If you have trouble, and it's already mounted, you could try tethering to your phone with the same SSID and password.
That stuffing gland beneath the Permali box is begging to be the source of trouble. When the first heavy rain comes in that direction it will run down that wall and into the PEN loss detector box and probably cause a fire. You should have used a 25mm adaptor and a piece of 25mm conduit glued in to create a watertight seal.
'first heavy rain', 'probably cause a fire'. Talk about overstating the risk. The chances are you could have it that way for a million years without causing a fire.
@@sailingoctopus1 I'm an electrician with 40 years in the industry, I didn't take the time to write that because it's a hypothetical chance. It WILL happen!
Regarding the extra ”kit” that you claimed is needed like the PEN faulr protection. Isn’t this due to the way you choose to connect this charger? Normally you would feed it of the main distribution from the house which already should have the PEN protection right? The Tesla WC has the inbuilt RCD, typ A + DC 6 mA protection specifically needed for this application (charging an EV). As the Tesla has built in planning for when you want to charge etc I would say it’s optimized price wise for what is needed together with a Tesla car. The Wi-Fi problem you had is due to weak Wi-Fi signal from the customer in this case…
I believe that everything that's fixed, should just have a wired connection. Very happy with my wired SMA charger over here :)
SMA makes very solid hardware, we install their solar inverters.
Wired is always best. Full duplex communications for a start.
@@JoshuaBurgess I have their inverter as well, and it communicates with the charger to maximize the use of solar for the car. Very pleased with the system so far 👍
Very much so! It isn't just 'old-school' to think that, but in terms of performance (with only a few exceptions, bandwidth can suffer if 'line impedance' isn't carefully matched) wired is the most trouble free, secure and highest performing way to do things.
is it possible to run a cat5 cable, possibly using data over power adaptors? Do any other of the chargers have wired data connection? expecting a customer to have a wifi extender is a bit much. if chargers are wifi only, how many have 5GHz, so less likely to get interference than 2.4GHz
Ruben is the boy. Having your apprenticeship broadcast to thousands of people, takes balls. Good lad.
Have you got to the bottom of why the manufacturers are moving away from wired connections? and why can't the data run over the power line? My PC does
The Australian Tesla wall charger installation instructions specifically stated NO POWER LINE NETWORKS. They had to install a new transmitter near the router, and a repeater in the garage. Once they got it all up and running, and then left, I ripped it all out and used my own mesh network. I tried to explain to the chinese workers, but they had a blank look on their faces.
Your WIFI commissioning problem, if you are mounting the Charge Point outside, may actually be the windows on the house. If the house has newer windows and they have Low-E coating on them you will likely have an issue. The Low-E coating can inhibit WIFI signals. I experienced this on my house. I was having trouble with my WIFI in the backyard, finally I actually added an additional access point and mounted it on a little shelf in the window of my workshop, on the inside! Still had shitty WIFI, as soon as I opened the window and moved the access point outside the window, boom, fabulous WIFI. Ended up getting an outdoor access point and installing it on the side of the garage.
Uhm don't know about euro electric systems. The Tesla charger already has a GFCI system that already and when you add another system with same design with each other and will not operate properly.
Normally devices for IoT have cheaper wifi chips since they don't have lot of traffic which normally don't support high density networks so that could be the issue. Another issue would be mixing 5Ghz with 2.4Ghz since most cheaper wifi chips only support 2.4Ghz and when you do a internet connection if you don't ask the router for the correct connection it might get messy fast and delay the connection. For my network since I do a lot of IoT I have a different wifi network called IoT which is a low density 2.4Ghz network with legacy support. I have a ubiquiti network setup so I have everything supported in my home but for most common households having different wifis or network setups might not be possible so it might cause some problems for some connections.
Thank You for All that you are doing for our Planet Earth.... Peace.. Shalom.. Salam.. Namaste 🙏🏻 😊 🌈 ✌ ☮ ❤
Was looking for what voltage and amperage a Tesla charged at. I was an electrician in the USA and looking for how the chargers are wired. Hopefully we won't need all the equipment you show to hook up chargers. Have seen many home chargers that hook up to a 240V 30 amp or 50 amp receptacle with a plug.
Some of us remember buying electrical items and being reminded to buy a plug with it.
If you want it to look neater don't wrap it so much. 2-3 big loops are fine.
Jordan in the spec sheet the Telsta Wall Connector is only 2.4ghz 802.11b/g/n. Some wifi combine the 2.4 and 5 ghz networks on the one SSID. This can confuse devices with only 2.4, Next time you have issues login to the router, not the rooter (I'm an Aussie). And select the setting to isolate the 2.4 and 5ghz, or uncombine them. Every router is different. Keep up the good work.
You might find it's an issue between 2.4ghz and 5ghz connecting problems. I split my WiFi so I can choose which one I need to connect to as some amazon sticks don't work well on 5ghz WiFi so I wonder if this is the problem artisan?
Oh god I’ve gone crosseyed
Pretty sure that is it. Hey had trouble in the office, probably in range of the 5ghz. They did it outside here, brick walls block most of the 5ghz so it would have defaulted to 2.4 which made the installation painless. High chance if they tried id near the wifi accesspoint it would have given trouble too
The Tesla wall connector presently only does 2.4 GHz
I bought a 24" x 24" lockbox into which my electrician installed the Tesla Wall EVSE at the driveway. So, the EVSE is never seen by anyone and the box looks great. I don't have wifi at my house, so I didn't try to connect to the EVSE, and my electrician told me that these units "self commission" so no need to fuss with wifi at all. ( USA ). Also, I have been told that the GEN3 units have never been sent OTAs. My takeaway is: no need to let wifi ruin your day, mate.
I wrote on your first ver3 vs ver2 charger video. An electrician myself. I have installed versions 3s. There has never been a problem getting the wifi set up. The customer does it anyway. I just had a customer link up 2 of them sharing on one 60a circuit and he did it with not much trouble. Munro live did a overview and found the design to be very well executed.
Tech stuff, we have the same issue in the cctv/intruder alarm security industry, the old school guys are great at running cables but really struggle with the modern connectivity, apps etc.
The problem with wifi is almost universally related to the router configuration... Signal not strong enough, signal strong but too noisy to be useful (both related to the distance between the router and the device), router configured in a non standard way, repeaters in the way, etc...
Ok so what charge point should people install if they have a Tesla? Or is the button thing worth the extra pain.
Yes figure of “8” the cable to avoid damage over time. This will also avoid EMF in other instances where flex is not fully unwound.
Probably better to have some kind of separate bracket next to the charger to allow figure of “8” and make the charger look uncluttered. Agree about mastic to stop water running into the charger board but would have installed a bush and coupler.
Good job though lads.
Fig 8 will make ZERO difference to "EMF". If you have conductors next to each other carrying equal and opposite currents (such as Live and Neutral for example) their magnetic fields will cancel out so no inductance. The fig 8 myth came from coiled cables becoming hot and people believing that to be due to inductance, IT ISN'T it's simply down to resistive heating and inability of heat to escape, Fig 8 creates more air gaps and a larger surface area for heat to escape.
@@mfx1 When you think about it, that makes sense about the inductance Martin, so I have to agree with you annoyingly. In my defence, hanging by my finger tips, maybe the figure of 8 would help with resistive load heat build up, because it’s 2 coils effectively, and also reversing the could will lessen the internal damage to twisted cores. Humble pie has been eaten. (Going to test it though)
Why do you need the extra box installation??? The 3 gen. version has RCD
I used the Garo PEN fault detection system last year on a hot tub installation. When the hot tub company delivered and commissioned the hot tub, they had never come across this before.
Great content as always.
Thanks for sharing
Tesla, like apple, only like doing things their way. The template suggests the backplate only be fitted with two screws, if going for a rear cable entry then the two screws are on one side, which can make the unit wobble a bit. They provide their own shaped screw heads which round off. The carbide terminal screws really affect the test readings so you have to awkwardly get the probes in. The tether, as Jordan mentioned, does its own thing and will not coil up neatly. Not to mention the PEN fault detection device needed or the annoying WiFi restraints and commissioning app!
I have installed many Gen3 Wall Connectors, including my own with NEVER an issue connection with a Wireless Network.
@@michaelholliday100 FFS so you keep telling us... We get it you have installed loads without issue, well done.
Also you can connect this via the Tesla App now as of July - super easy
Please correct me when i am wrong,but isnt it cheap to do it like this,because there is no KwH meter in that box??Or am i wrong because i am a dutch electrician.Have i mist it about the meter?
Is that cable the standard length? I want to install on front of house. I will then drive Tesla Y onto drive. The charging point will be at the front right of car. Will the cable be long enough to go across front of car and then along the length to the changing point of Tesla Y? Thanks a lot, great video
31:00 Why are those boxed not connected and the cable on the bottom not clipped to the wall?
why doesn't Ruben use the piece of paper on the back of the plugs which gives you the required measurements for the conductors?
I like Jordan. It's humble to watch him apologise for being OCD about his work, the Tesla charging cable being a good example! It's the difference between a run-of-the-mill Electrician and an Artisan. Another great video and fair play Jordan, you've taken over well from Corey in teaching Reuben. Looking forward to seeing Corey back in for an episode or maybe two or three?
Keep up the mighty work folks 👍
@Andrew_koala Okay, clown.
What is your average charge to install a Tesla wall connector this way?
I have a 6yr old Mennekes charger. Electrician moved it for me to a new home, but was super hesitant....talked about lack of 6mA protection for example. What's the deal here...is it safe, should a PEN fault dectector be enough to resolve v a new charger?
Will there be any selectivity issues now there is a Type A RCBO installed upstream from the type B Tesla RCD?
There might be. It depends where the fault occurs. If the fault occurs downstream from the RCD in the EV charger, then either the RCD in the charger or the RCBO in the CU is going to trip, but you don't know which one.
The user will be protected against electrocution but the question is what circuit and loads in the house are going to be powered down when the RCBO in the CU trips.
Here in the USA, our options are limited to the Tesla EVSE wall connector if you don't want to have to use clunky adapters for your Tesla. The Tesla plug is so much smaller here than the CCS plug there. I know there is actually a federal push to adopt the Tesla plug on all EVs here in the USA ironically enough. Doubt that will really go anywhere but its strange. We also don't need PEN fault detection, as we don't run a neutral to the charger, only the split phase L1/L2 and ground. The only requirement we have which was new in 2020 was the use of GFCI, in which the Telsa charger does have built in. So that actually saves money here. I haven't seen the WiFi issues here at least, so not sure what is happening. The charger does integrate into Home Assistant so stats on a dashboard is nice. I wish it did have a nice display on it.
L1 and L2 are each 120 Volts 180 degrees out of phase from each other. I prefer the US Electrical code and would much rather get bit by 120 volts than 220 or 240 volts.
@@michaelholliday100 lol yep that’s for sure. Can’t count the number of times I have been reminded of doing something I shouldn’t be doing on live circuits. 😂
Hello I was just wondering why don't you use a small Bit of plastic pipe over the drill bit when you are drilling walls.
Hey Jordan, I just had a look at the Tesla spec. It only supports 2.4Ghz b/g/n WiFi… modern/newer WiFi protocol is on 5Ghz band… so if you aren’t running 2.4Ghz in your office, the charger won’t find your WiFi network 👍🏼
Its not really correct to say "newer WiFi protocol is 5Ghz", as the protocol is a different thing and a good WiFi 6 router actually does WiFi 6 on 2.4Ghz too, so both radios are actually on the most modern protocol. Not to mention that 6Ghz is the latest WiFi frequency now and 5Ghz WiFi has existed almost as long as 2.4Ghz, it just wasn't as commonly used when hardly anyone had WiFi so interference wasn't an issue.
That said, most devices on 2.4Ghz will be WiFi 4 because its cheaper to implement (2.4Ghz never was upgraded to WiFi 5/AC).
Is it possible to hard wire chargers for Wi-Fi direct to the router with ethernet cable?
Yes
Hi are electricians allowed to pull main fuse for the meter.
Thanks
Depending on how its configured some US wifi devices won't operate on channels above 11 (Different countires limit use of higher channels). Forcing the Wifi router onto a lower channel can solve this.
Wouldn't expect tesla to have this issue as surely they must adjust it to the local country/region.
But I have deff encountered this before when using wifi enabled devices from the USA in the UK. Particularly when people have forced their wifi onto one of these higher channels to avoid interference with neighbouring wifi routers/hotspots. Would link to the wikipedia page of compatability but not sure I can post links here?
I posted a comment below with a link to a tesla forum confirming the above, but it was deleted due to an external link. Seems they disable some of the 2.4GHz channels eg. 12+ as these are disallowed in the USA. Odd they don't tailor this to the EU market!
I've noticed two earth/cpc conductors being wired in the top of the contactor. This must be the armored earth and the fly lead going to the armoring. They looked liked two different sizes? 4mm for the armored and 2.5 for the fly lead. Are you allowed to use different sizes on the same screw terminal for that specific contactor ?
The tesla unit has inbuilt dc leakage. The megger mft 1742+ which is the tester they are using does an auto dc leakage test, worryingly its the bit when Jordan says he didn't know the mft did it
Further comment. My charger is INSIDE my garage, as is my Tesla Model Y. Garages are for cars, first & foremost. I am, admittedly, lucky enough to have a 6.5m long garage, but WHY do people want chargers installed on exterior walls? If you are absent from your home, on holiday or whatever, there is nothing to prevent a total stranger using your charger.
Not true young Skywalker. the Tesla charger can be locked to a single vehicle if you have the need or concern of charging thefts.
It’s totally a Wi-Fi router issue. It’s 2.4ghz only and a lot of stock routers like virgin / by / sky have issues with dual 2.4 and 5ghz with the same name. Separate them and you are golden - or use a decent mesh Wi-Fi.
Easiest way to stop brick blow out especially if your going through a brick outer wall from the inside is getting yourself a 300mm x 300mm x 18mm ply and if there are 2 of you on site get your mate to hold the board against the wall over the area the drill will punch through and it will stop blow out but it won't punch through the plywood.
In the US you just go from the breaker panel to the wall connector. Is this an EU / UK code thing?
Not essential, but, asking as DiYer, wouldn't you use ferrules with flexible wires?
I work in IT and IoT devices have always been a "hit-or-miss" when it comes to joining a wifi network.
It took about 3 attempts to get my Tesla wall connector joined to my network. Plus, it really doesn't gain much besides updating the firmware. I was expecting more from them.
At least you have more options than in the US. Here, Tesla uses a proprietary connector, so if you don't use their unit, you need to fiddle with adapters.
If you have like cisco or Ubiquiti or other enterprise level hardware you should be able to make a different network with low density and legacy support for 2.4Ghz which normally should support any chip and possibly fix the issue with the tesla thing.
@@antoniogoncalves705 I have ubiquiti hardware and I cannot for the life of me get compatible signals for some IoT devices. In case it is useful to anyone... a workaround I have is... temporarily rename my real connection SSID... get an old basic router and name it what the original network SSID was called.... connect your devices... turn off old router and rename the SSID back to original. Works a treat (only have to do this the odd time i encounter a new IoT device that I have trouble with)
@@ciaranflynn6291 I never had issues after configuring my network properly. What devices are you trying to connect? Do you have legacy support for 2.4Ghz network or IoT network if you have one. What channel width do you use for 2.4Ghz? Do you SSIDs have weird chars?
Also do you have 5Ghz separated from 2.4Ghz or the prefer 5Ghz option on in the unifi devices?
Does this charger requires an earthing rod installation, or it has a builtin PEN protection?
I don't get that PEN fault protection. I see no such thing on TESLA wallbox mounting instructions. Is that if PE and N are on a single conductor? I don't see how can one lose N and PE at the same time. In Portugal i have never seen such a thing. N is always provided by the network along with L1-L3 (4 wires) and PE is from the house installation and always separated from N. Actually we use differential breakers that sense the return current on N against the one on L and if it senses a drop in current (0.030-0.300A) meaning that current is bleeding through PE than it opens up and isolates that circuit totally (all 4 conductors). For single phase same thing but with L1 alone
is it beater to mount the unit on the wall , then take it off the wall before you drill the hole for the cable then your not expediently going to damage the case.
with respect to the WiFi issue, a lot of these chipsets have issues with combined 2.4/5GHz wifi routers, where both 2.4 and 5 are the same SSID (wifi name). Try asking the customer to
disable the 5Ghz for a few minutes until it is set up, then re-enable...
This is why I have a 2.5 only network for my various iot type devices.
As an "IT Specialist" lol. You might have had issues with your WiFi in your office due to 2.4GHz vs 5GHz compatibility with the charger. Some prefer 5GHz over 2.4GHz however, the charger may not fully support 5GHz.
Regarding the earth protection: With an external mounted charger like this, could one not just install an earth rod near the charger dedicated to the charger and not use the CPC from the main supply? Other than the car, what other extraneous metal could the customer touch when unplugging the car? Does that meet the regs?
I wonder; in North America do electricians install a PEN fault detector when fitting the Tesla charge point?
Do they offer a plug-in option vs wired option?
Meanwhile over here in the colonies (USA - Alabama) I just wired it to my 100 amp sub-panel in my garage MYSELF, a licensed electrician friend checked my work and NO SMOKE. YEA. I commissioned it to 32 amps, works fine for our needs. Gen 2 Wall Connector.
My advice: a. Never update firmware when connected to a powerbank. NEVER. b. Once connected to the device, perform anoffline firmware update. c. Once latest SW is installed succesfully, power the device OFF, wait 10s, power On and continue with configuration and WiFI pairing with the house network, on a 2.4GHz network. Keep in mind the TWC has a 1x1 wifi antenne configuration, so proximity to the access point/router is quite important
Hi, has it got a CT clamp to monitor the house consumption and ramp down the car charging if it exeeds the maximum rating? Can it be installed on a 60A main fuse? Thanks.
Tesla manual said no rcd protection required on the 3rd gen
Built in aprently, is this true
Agreed; if they're going to put that much effort in to a snazzy design, having a mess of cable detracts... It's sort of like the fact that Dyson doesn't understand that auto-retracting cords are one of the biggest/best developments in vacuums in the last 20 years! You've got a super snazzy vacuum, but you're stuck manually winding cable around two hooks. I guess the designers @ Dyson don't actually do that much "hoovering". ;-)
Mayybe you put the retracting cable into the car!!!
When I had a Zappi installed, as householder, I ran an Ethernet cable to the point where the Zappi would be installed. Hard wired is ALWAYS way more reliable!
Why not install the “chargers” inside the garage ? With a safe cable route to the car ?
Love this video, very informative and I like the way you coach your apprentice by testing him with knowledge questions during the installation! Where my switchbox is located is on the opposite side of house to my garage where tesla wall connector is to be installed. Just like you mentioned in the video, I thought the installation should be quite easy until my electrician told me it is gonna take a solid 4 -5 hours to do the wire routing properly.
Well all electricians aren't IT specialists... but some of us are. 13 years as IT engineer and helpdesk. Now I've been about four years as an electrician. Oh and I'm also licensed refrigerant service technician @ 6:33
I think the main issue with most Wifi enabled IoT equipment is that it dont play well if there is one Wifi network using both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz, the 2.4Ghz is used still for most wifi enabled devices and thus it prefers a dedicated 2.4Ghz network band, so try asking the customer to separate the wifi into two different SSIDs operating at different bands respectively
We often have issues connecting chargers via wifi, much prefer hardwired but many have gotten rid of the hardwired possibility such as the Anderson. It is definitely a shame as many customers have called about their cars not charging in the last few days as the lightning storms have played havoc with peoples wifi.
Sounds as if the need battery backups for their routers and whole house surge protectors...
@@michaelholliday100 A Tesla powerwall will solve all those problems, and keep all your lights & TV running. (I have one)
13:49 [voice of] Tomo Nagy: 'gloves, boss!' 🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂
Find the charger on the router's controls (2.4GHz band), then set the IP address as reserved.
Can you also fix the IP on the charger via its portal? Best this way as it doesn't have to try to negotiate a connection - just use the fixed one you set.
That’s all very well but shouldn’t have to do that in 2022.
@@hks-lion I know you shouldn’t have to. Indeed you don’t, however why waste process time with the address negotiation exercise when you can simply lock in the address. It avoids any other device pinching the address if it comes up first after any outage.
@@herrtomas6729 reserving an address does not skip the "address negotiation exercise", the client device still has to ask for an address, get offered an address (the reserved one) and then accept it.
@@Gr33nMamba the ideal is to also set fixed on the client. This is my choice for key clients
My car is one meter away from the charger... I would actually like to have a short cable instead... would look way better! But Tesla doesnt offer that anymore :(
Would it be able to shorten it?
Try a HyperVolt. So many people complaining about their wifi connectivity. It barely works.
Ok listen up people..I have in the last 2 hours just commissioned a Tesla Gen 3 Wall connector. Everything went well apart from connecting the gen3 to the home Wi-Fi network. After ALOT of trial and error I discovered it was not the TWC’s fault. The Wi-Fi was set to only accept WPA3 security connections. The TWC needs WPA2. So I literally toggled one function on my Eero software and it worked!!!!
Stick to using Zappi, V2.1 EV charger, no wifi issues, but it also has a Ethernet port if you have wifi issues ...😁
The problem is your router. Routers especially from certain ISP are configured in a particular way OR not always implementing the standards properly. When i moved to a router that i purchased myself and connected directly to the ISP via PPoE all my devices worked flawlessly.
It quite possibly wouldn't connect to your office wifi during the training because your office wifi AP is only on 5Ghz, a lot of smart devices generally only use 2.4Ghz. I may be wrong but that sounds like the probable issue you experienced.
Which cable did you use for the wall connector? The five-core 2.5 mm armoured cable? Thanks for the answer.
My wall connector got on WIFI just fine. Except now I cannot commission it with Tesla One app. The app simply will not connect even though the phone is connected to the Tesla wall connector.
Does anyone know why they use 25mm² tails when the device is only rated at 7.4kW 32A?
is there anything you can do while controlling the wall connector with the app, that you could not already do in the car or the car's app? If not: why bother with the wifi on the wall connector...
Jordan, are you not able to put a side cable holder on the left hand side of the charger and then put it in place on the right side. You can have the roller on the left side of the charger with the last bit going to the side female placement to the charger. Just a thought!!!
But what happens to the charger if your wifi drops out coz maintenance is being done by the wifi service provider
The wifi connection is needed for updates and for load balancing if you have several units. Two functionally that most other charge points do not have.
You should get the freq right 2,4 vs. 5 is the key to your problem... Just a heads up. I have installed about 50isch of those and never a prob with the wifi...
I've had loads of issues at home connecting smart devices to things at home as they run on a 2.4ghz frequency. Where the WiFi router broadcasts both 2.4 and 5ghz, if my phone is required to setup the device then it will default to 5ghz frequency. To get around this you need to access the router and disable 5ghz while setting up your devices.
Did you check the polarity of ruebens plug top connections before you plugged in the charger?.
How do you test the PEN fault device?
Impossible to test unfortunately
@@artisanelectrics Surely the PEN fault device is designed to save lives by doing a disconnect when there is a fault, but no way to test it means its pot luck if it works when it is needed.
@@sergiofernandez3725 It's not pot luck. You are relying on the manufacturer to test it at the time of manufacture.
They should be testing it and if it doesn't work, they can't ship the product.
@@artisanelectrics wire it up to a 110 v AC power supply?
@@jocramkrispy305 In my opinion the 48V should be sufficient. It would be nice to know when the PEN fault protection should trip and simulate all that states. This sounds like a good inspiration to a video.
I might be wrong but I didn't think we are allowed to install tethered anymore? Or is that just public type2?
I was all set for a Tesla charger but when researched learned there was a loads of extra stuff that was required. My installer has recommended the Wallbox Pulsar Max - any thoughts on this charger from you guys at Artisan?
We have never tried the wall box so can’t connect I’m afraid