I can't begin to tell you how much these videos helped us!!! Our son's car isn't worth what a mechanic would have charged us to make the repair. It took us probably 12+ hours to remove the manifold, clean, replace the thermostat, place the hoses that were toast, and replace the manifold seals, and reassemble. NO WAY we could have done this without your videos...I don't care what you call anything, hell call every part the water pump. The labeling is pure genius and made reassembly possible. Don't fool yourself, label it! Thank you thank you thank you!!!
I thought to change the Thermostat will take me about 1 hour to do this job, but since I started I couldn't stop, thank God I found your videos-sss sss then all this gave me a lot of hope. Thanks hope I can complete this in the next 4 days.
Thanks for the Rodeo series of videos. They will be most helpful when I have to pull my intake soon. I got confused looking for part 4. I swear I couldn't find it and wound up watching the whole series just to find out what happened to the hose clamp that was blocking your valve! I think I would have some choice words for the guy who left the clamp in your intake. There are professionals and then there are professionals. Good work!
Jim Mc Haha! I'm sorry to keep you on the edge of your seat! I was definitely surprised (and very aggravated) to find that hose clamp. Thanks for watching!
Hi, I found your videos quite helpful in making sure I got all the right pieces taken off to get to the thermostat. Thanks! I thought I would mention a few areas where I deviated from the video. The main one that applies to this video is the pipe that connects to the water manifold. I did not remove the manifold, instead I removed two 12mm bolts from the rear brackets that connect to the pipe and the one top bolt that attaches to the manifold block. I used a ratchet end wrench. Doing this allows the pipe to slide back and over. I think this is easier than removing the water manifold. My next tips apply more to your other videos. I left the fuel rail, throttle body, EGR, and FPR attached to the manifold. There are two fuel hoses that must be removed at the very bottom of the manifold in doing this, they are a bear to get to, especially to reattach, but if the manifold is lifted and slightly angled, I used an 8" piece of foam between the manifold and engine to prop it at an angle where I could reach them. Then in reassembly I replaced the spring clamps with screw type, which made it easier. Lastly, if you do want to remove the FPR bracket (not necessary) you can remove all the manifold bolts, pick the manifold up and forward to get to that hex nut easier. Thanks again for the helpful and detailed videos.
I'm glad you found this series helpful, Brent! And thanks for the great advice - there is certainly more than one way to approach any project, and my way is definitely not necesarily the "best". Your suggestions are great and would certainly make the process easier. Thanks for sharing!
+tmyer2 - For some reason I can't respond directly to your comment, so I'll reply here. Unfortunately, you will need to remove the intake manifold in order to replace the thermostat. It's a pretty lousy design, in my opinion, and one of the real faults of this engine (along with the common issue with oil burning). However, it's really not that bad of a job if you have a little knowledge going into it. Hopefully my videos will help with that. While you're at it, I'd also highly recommend replacing the coolant hoses under the intake manifold; they run in the engine valley and are notorious for leaking. It would also be good to replace the O-rings/gaskets on the water manifold, and if you've never changed your timing belt, this would be the best time to do that, as well. Best of luck, and thanks for watching!
thanks dude , I'm doing my sons 1999 Jackaroo ( Australian ) thermostat on the weekend this video was a big help. I can now do this job with confidence ..
Thanks! I have to say - the vehicle is driving MUCH better now, so I would definitely encourage you to tackle these projects. It's really not that hard....just time consuming. But the feeling of accomplishment will be worth it!
Good videos Matt..I am quite experienced building cars up etc and putting my own engines together but had never tackled one of these motors with fuel injection etc in the car so when looking at a few things as I delved into it , I got a bit lost hence watching your vids , thanks for that ....just with that protection bracket at the back covering the fuel regulator at the end of the fuel rail , I replaced the allen key head unbrako with a hex head bolt so if needed in the future I could get a ratchet ring spanner onto it easily ....I also made up a long head (about 1 1/2 " ) bolt for the rear of the valve cover under the brake booster .....never want to go through that again !! lolol....cheers ...keep up the good work
Wow, thanks for the kind words Denis! I'm flattered that even a seasoned gearhead like yourself found something useful in my videos. I'm glad I could offer some help. Great idea on replacing the fuel regulator bracket bolt by the firewall - I wanted to do the same, but couldn't find any hexhead bolts with that thread pattern at my local hardware store, and didn't want to wait for one to be delivered. I'm sure next time I have to remove that bolt, I'll regret that! Also, great idea on the valve cover bolt by the brake booster - what a pain in the butt that thing is! Thanks again for watching and commenting! I hope your Isuzu is running well!
Hello Matt. Thanks for this series of videos. It really helped me with my intake on my 99 Trooper. However, once I got it all back together I had a coolant leak. The strange this was it took a couple of days for the leak to show up. It was on a jack stand because I was replacing the a/c compressor (not a fun job.) I tracked down the leak as best I could. It appears to be down where the thermostat and those two connections are. I already ordered a new thermostat because if I'm in there I might well replace it. The service manual is lacking in detail for that area of the coolant system and planetisuzoo seems to be quiet right now....With the intake still on I can see a pool of coolant in the middle but it's not toward the front where the housing is. The drips to the ground are going down the front and back of the engine. I can't recall if there were small holes there or not but it makes sense. So I'm wondering if there is a connection (o-ring or gasket) where the thermostat housing goes to that tube under the intake? Is there any other connections under there except the thermostat (if there is one), the line from the TB and the other line from the main housing? I'm just trying to see what parts to order because I'm on a time crunch. I hope it's not a crack or or whatever in the cylinder block...Thanks for any help! Scott
Hi Matt . Best video on rodeo thermostat replacement. Can you tell me what kind of hoses are those two by the thermostat? Are they regular fuel hoses ? Thank you.
My hat is off to" MATT PAYNE" for his video series regarding his wife's 2001 Isuzu Rodeo. I have the need as of this time to replace the cooling system thermostat in my wife's 2000 Honda Passport (which I donated to my granddaughter to travel to and from college, she begins in late August.) The 2000 Passport runs great, it drives great, it rides great and it still looks great. It has always been a wonderful vehicle. Approximately 7000/8000 miles ago, I replaced the timing belt/all pulleys& tensioners water pump, belts, hoses, plugs etc etc etc. I didn't do the thermostat then because of where it is located, although I had originally planned to at that time. I am a somewhat old fart that tends to shy away from some so-called experts because of experiences I have had with untightened bolts, missing and/or lost brackets, etc. In the last 35/40 years I have brought my vehicle to "an expert" maybe 4 or 5 times, mainly for AC work or automatic transmission repairs (not filters changes). I also like to save money when possible and it feels good to accomplish new things. I had already begun disconnecting things (on the Passport) and drawing a schematic of sorts to help me remember how to put it back together. I am 67 years old and don't always remember as well as in the past years. I had quite a back done and was pulling up the fuel rail w/ the injectors still attached to it. I was ready to remove the 4 corner nuts to the lower manifold and had already removed the long bolts w/grounds. Then I kind of lost my nerve. There were things that I couldn't see and frankly I just don't have the same balls that I used to have. I decided to at least shop around a little before going further. I put everything back together and started the car up again. Hmmmm!! What did I do ???? After getting the car started up again... I began to regret that I had kinda like chickened out. In the not so distant past there is "no way" that I would have done that. I went online and ONCE AGAIN I came across Matt's videos. I did not watch them the first time around but this time I patiently started at the beginning and watched everything.... even the stuff that I had already figured on my own. I began to realize that Matt Payne is like me in many ways. I saw how neat and organized he was and he admits that he is NOT a pro, however, you can see that he takes pride in his work and he is sure of himself as he progresses in his project. His workplace and the end result of his project is CLEAN and impressive. I watched in the entireity the 1st five videos. I was and still am very impressed by the detail and effort MATT PAYNE put into those videos. Those videos answered every question I had and even some I didn't think of. These very well made and extremely informative videos have turned me around and sent me back to work on that 2000 Passport. I have absolutely no doubts and/or questions after watching Matt's videos. Once again I say.... "MATT PAYNE.... MY HAT IS OFF TO YOU. THANK YOU FOR BEING SO GENEROUS WITH YOUR VIDEOS. YOU HAVE MOST CERTAINLY BEEN A HUGE ASSET TO ME IN MY ENDEAVORS REGARDING THE PROJECT THAT I ALMOST GAVE UP ON. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU !!!!!
Ricky Romero Ricky, thank you so much for your incredibly kind words! I don't feel at all deserving of such praise, but it certainly is rewarding to hear from people that found my videos helpful. As I have commented before, my videos are created with the sole intent of helping people who are not professionals, but who would like to tackle a project on their own and are just lacking a bit of confidence that they can handle it. I myself fall into that category many times...I will doubt whether or not I am capable of making a certain repair until I've done enough research to feel comfortable with it. Most people are capable of doing much more than they themselves believe....it just takes a little bit of assistance to realize that sometimes. In my own experience, being able to see a picture/diagram helps immensely, but actually seeing a video makes even more impact. It's always my hope that my videos will help someone reach the point of being confident they can try something on their own (in other words - "if he can do it with no previous experience, then I can too!"). To that end, my videos tend to be long and very detail-oriented, but I want to include as much information as I can to aid folks who might be trying a repair for the first time. Congratulations to you for having the courage to tackle this project! You should be very proud that you have maintained your vehicles on your own for most of your life. There is pride in ownership, but even moreso in knowing that your own two hands have cared for a vehicle for most/all of its existence. Well done! I know your granddaughter must be extremely grateful for your generosity and for helping care for her "new" vehicle. She has been given a vehicle that should serve her well for many years to come because you have maintained it well. Thank you again so much for your compliments. I am truly humbled by your words. I'm not sure I can adequately express the feeling of satisfaction I get when I hear from folks like you that say they were helped by one of my videos. I will continue to create and post videos for that very reason. Thanks again, and may your granddaughter enjoy many more miles in her Passport....I think they are really cool vehicles! God bless.
Hey Matt, thanks for the VERY helpful video. Question, I have a sticking thermostat on my 2001 Rodeo. Looking at your video it looks like I have to take the entire intake manifold off to get to the thermostat for replacement. Am I right on this?
Flying Fish Guy, yes, I tried and got the bolts out, with much difficulty, but the flange won’t come out the front. Sorry but you have no other option but to take the whole common chamber off. You do not need to remove the injectors or fuel rail though.
idud a thermostat,yesterday I used a 12mm swivel socket 3/4 drive. I took off the heater hose, removed the throttle body, unbolted front water pump heater hoseblock then I used the 12mm swivel, 2 6 inch extensionsto on a 3/4 drive socket remove the metal tube where thermostat was
Question when removing the EGR valve, important which way did you turn the threads to disconnect the EGR valve? Does it go up the pipe into the EGR valve, or does it go down. 🤔
I just removed mine last week . The tubing nut is right hand. I had to use an open end wrench moving towards the firewall. 22mm . I hope that makes sense.
Dear Mark Payne, can you do a video on where the vacuum hose on the manifold intake ( you labeled it Q) go? I've been looking for this every where and I cant seem to find anything. I'm pretty sure there's other people having this same problem help us please. Thanks
Hello there. Thank you very much videonuz. I will just change the thermostat. Do you need to remove the crowd manifold? Only the intake manifold and other parts are sufficient. thank you so much.
Hi, I'm sorry for the delayed response! I am not sure I totally understand your question, but yes, you do need to remove the entire intake manifold (upper and lower) to replace the thermostat. I have read that a few people managed to change the thermostat by only removing the water manifold and leaving the intake manifold in place, but after having done this repair myself, I do not see any way to do that. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Matt , Great video , followed all your advice so far so good. One key question for you? When you put the manifold back onto the engine , Did you already have the fuel rail hooked up to it , and or how did you get the fuel line "Y" Bracket bolts on without damaging the IMG gasket. Basically was the fuel rail in the rodeo before setting in the manifold? Any help appreciated thanks , already for videos
Alex Lamar Thanks for the kind words, Alex! Let's see if I can help you out a little...if you go to about the 4:10 mark in Part 3 of this video series, you can see the fuel rail still lying in the engine compartment after I have removed the manifold. I ended up leaving it in the engine bay, still connected to the fuel supply lines, for the duration of the repair. I kind of just tied it up out of my way, and then when I was ready to re-install everything, I dropped the manifold down into place and then set the fuel rail back on top of it. With regard to the fuel line "Y" bracket bolts on the back of the intake....I totally cheated. I didn't re-install them. It was so aggravating to remove them in the first place, I wanted no part of trying to re-connect them. So I left them off. Probably not the right way to do it...but I haven't lost any sleep over it. Haha. I hope this answers your questions. Let me know if you need anything else. I'll try to help out any way that I can. Good luck!
hello matt. Thanks for the video. I just need to replace the thermostat. Can that be done with out removing the intake? any tips would be appreciated. Thanks
Jared Bilbrey Hi Jared, while I have read of several people who claimed to have replaced the thermostat without removing the intake, I honestly have no idea how they managed to do it, let alone have any confidence that they got a good seal on the thermostat housing. I think it's best to bite the bullet and remove the intake, which will give you the opportunity to thoroughly clean the inside of the intake, as well as the EGR tube, and also replace the coolant hoses that run in the engine valley under the intake. It's a bit of a process, but in my opinion it's just not feasible to get to the thermostat any other way. Good luck!
really like to see a video of thermostat removal, without removing intake manifold? I have to change thermostat on my 2004 rodeo. Sounds the same as :As I Am comments.
+artdecco Though I have no idea how anyone can pull that off, I have heard several people say they did it. I just can't fathom how. I'm not saying they aren't telling the truth...they just possess more ingenuity than I do.
I also have a rear main seal leak. I wonder if it would be easier to just pull the whole engine then remove this intake manifold? Im not looking forward to that EGR and the fuel rail issue on the drivers side. Regardless, your video couldnt have been more helpful and thorough.
Hmm, to replace the rear main seal it might make removing the engine worth it. But, I'm not all that familiar with accessing the rear main seal on this vehicle so I'm not totally sure. Honestly, the intake isn't that bad knowing what I know now. If I had to do it again, I think I could get it removed in a few hours. The hardest part the first time was not knowing the little tricks like how to remove the fuel pressure regulator bracket or not knowing the fuel lines were connected to the back of the intake. If you know that going in, and are at all mechanically inclined (and you sound to be even more so than I am), you should be able to knock this out with no problem. It was in that spirit that I created these videos, so other people wouldn't have to do it blind like I did. Drop me a line if you get stumped by something and I'll try to help if I can. Good luck!
Jared Bilbrey Hey Jared, I had to purchase two gaskets and two O-rings for the water manifold...see the diagram linked below. I believe the gaskets are labeled #160 and the O-rings are labeled #122 and #138 in this diagram. estore.honda.com/honda/parts/view-honda-parts-catalog-detail.asp?m=2001-passport-4-4ex-l-4at&sn=&b=E++1810&dl= Good luck!
Yes, that is correct - the rigid lines have rubber O-rings. Check out this link: www.hondapartsunlimited.com/auto-parts/2002/honda/passport/4lx-trim/4-speed-automatic-engine/engine-cat/thermostat-piping-scat
Would a bad thermostat cause my Rodeo to never reach "warm" temperatures? no matter what, the gauge stays halfway between cold and warm. Which causes the heat to never fully get hot.
+OFF2theGYM A bad thermostat could definitely cause that issue if the thermostat fails in the open position, which would allow the engine coolant to continuously cycle through the radiator and be cooled off. However, when you say the temperature gauge stays halfway between cold and arm, do you mean the needle is in the dead center of the gauge? If so, that is normal, and your problem could be as simple as having air trapped in your coolant system, which will probably remain in heater core and prevent the exchange of heat between the core and the air being blown across it in your HVAC ductwork. In that case, you should park your vehicle aimed up a slight incline, let the engine cool off, and then remove the radiator cap. Then re-start the engine and let it warm up and idle for a while. If there is any air trapped in the coolant system, this should allow it to escape by raising the radiator above the rest of the system. Then check the coolant level and top off as necessary, and replace the radiator cap. Hopefully after that, your heat will work better. Good luck!
Yeah...pretty ridiculous, isn't it? I wish I would have thought to install a remote T-stat/housing when I did this repair. It sure would make future replacement easier.
Good luck, Cody! It's definitely a pain to do, but not all that difficult. It's just a shame the engineer decided to locate the thermostat below the intake manifold. Just take your time and you'll be fine. Thanks for watching!
Man. I have the same problem. 0 compression in cylinder 6. I wish I will be as lucky and theirs something in there but it's probably a bad valve. If it was a broken or bent valve, wouldn't it make a noise like a rattle ? I'm like you. This is the worst motor I have ever worked on
guuba gaaba Yeah, it was extremely frustrating to have to go through all of that because of a careless mistake by a mechanic that I paid to do a job. Even though I did this repair myself, I was already down several hundred dollars because I originally had the vehicle towed to another shop when it first broke down. They first recommended a fuel injector service, then recommended a new battery, then finally did a compression check (which probably should have been the first step). Oh well, I was just glad the hose clamp didn't make it inside the combustion chamber and blow up my engine...
I can't begin to tell you how much these videos helped us!!! Our son's car isn't worth what a mechanic would have charged us to make the repair. It took us probably 12+ hours to remove the manifold, clean, replace the thermostat, place the hoses that were toast, and replace the manifold seals, and reassemble. NO WAY we could have done this without your videos...I don't care what you call anything, hell call every part the water pump. The labeling is pure genius and made reassembly possible. Don't fool yourself, label it! Thank you thank you thank you!!!
...dude. Ended up picking up a 2001 VehiCROSS recently....since it's the same engine, these videos have been a huge help.
Thanks heaps Matt! I have been struggling to remove the intake manifold. I doubt I would have succeeded without your videos.
I thought to change the Thermostat will take me about 1 hour to do this job, but since I started I couldn't stop, thank God I found your videos-sss sss then all this gave me a lot of hope. Thanks hope I can complete this in the next 4 days.
Thanks for watching, Jose! I'm glad to her that my video helped you out. I hope your repair project went well!
Thanks for the Rodeo series of videos. They will be most helpful when I have to pull my intake soon. I got confused looking for part 4. I swear I couldn't find it and wound up watching the whole series just to find out what happened to the hose clamp that was blocking your valve! I think I would have some choice words for the guy who left the clamp in your intake. There are professionals and then there are professionals. Good work!
Jim Mc Haha! I'm sorry to keep you on the edge of your seat! I was definitely surprised (and very aggravated) to find that hose clamp.
Thanks for watching!
Hi, I found your videos quite helpful in making sure I got all the right pieces taken off to get to the thermostat. Thanks!
I thought I would mention a few areas where I deviated from the video. The main one that applies to this video is the pipe that connects to the water manifold. I did not remove the manifold, instead I removed two 12mm bolts from the rear brackets that connect to the pipe and the one top bolt that attaches to the manifold block. I used a ratchet end wrench. Doing this allows the pipe to slide back and over. I think this is easier than removing the water manifold.
My next tips apply more to your other videos. I left the fuel rail, throttle body, EGR, and FPR attached to the manifold. There are two fuel hoses that must be removed at the very bottom of the manifold in doing this, they are a bear to get to, especially to reattach, but if the manifold is lifted and slightly angled, I used an 8" piece of foam between the manifold and engine to prop it at an angle where I could reach them. Then in reassembly I replaced the spring clamps with screw type, which made it easier.
Lastly, if you do want to remove the FPR bracket (not necessary) you can remove all the manifold bolts, pick the manifold up and forward to get to that hex nut easier. Thanks again for the helpful and detailed videos.
I'm glad you found this series helpful, Brent! And thanks for the great advice - there is certainly more than one way to approach any project, and my way is definitely not necesarily the "best". Your suggestions are great and would certainly make the process easier. Thanks for sharing!
+tmyer2 - For some reason I can't respond directly to your comment, so I'll reply here. Unfortunately, you will need to remove the intake manifold in order to replace the thermostat. It's a pretty lousy design, in my opinion, and one of the real faults of this engine (along with the common issue with oil burning). However, it's really not that bad of a job if you have a little knowledge going into it. Hopefully my videos will help with that.
While you're at it, I'd also highly recommend replacing the coolant hoses under the intake manifold; they run in the engine valley and are notorious for leaking. It would also be good to replace the O-rings/gaskets on the water manifold, and if you've never changed your timing belt, this would be the best time to do that, as well.
Best of luck, and thanks for watching!
thanks dude , I'm doing my sons 1999 Jackaroo ( Australian ) thermostat on the weekend this video was a big help.
I can now do this job with confidence ..
You're very welcome! I'm glad to hear this helped. How did the thermostat replacement go?
Awesome video series! I have the same vehicle and need to do ALL of this to my 01.
Thanks! I have to say - the vehicle is driving MUCH better now, so I would definitely encourage you to tackle these projects. It's really not that hard....just time consuming. But the feeling of accomplishment will be worth it!
Thank you for that video it was a great help thank you thank you thank you
Good videos Matt..I am quite experienced building cars up etc and putting my own engines together but had never tackled one of these motors with fuel injection etc in the car so when looking at a few things as I delved into it , I got a bit lost hence watching your vids , thanks for that ....just with that protection bracket at the back covering the fuel regulator at the end of the fuel rail , I replaced the allen key head unbrako with a hex head bolt so if needed in the future I could get a ratchet ring spanner onto it easily ....I also made up a long head (about 1 1/2 " ) bolt for the rear of the valve cover under the brake booster .....never want to go through that again !! lolol....cheers ...keep up the good work
Wow, thanks for the kind words Denis! I'm flattered that even a seasoned gearhead like yourself found something useful in my videos. I'm glad I could offer some help.
Great idea on replacing the fuel regulator bracket bolt by the firewall - I wanted to do the same, but couldn't find any hexhead bolts with that thread pattern at my local hardware store, and didn't want to wait for one to be delivered. I'm sure next time I have to remove that bolt, I'll regret that! Also, great idea on the valve cover bolt by the brake booster - what a pain in the butt that thing is!
Thanks again for watching and commenting! I hope your Isuzu is running well!
Great job I did that on a Honda Passport I watch your video just to see someone else suffer I feel your pain
Hello Matt. Thanks for this series of videos. It really helped me with my intake on my 99 Trooper. However, once I got it all back together I had a coolant leak. The strange this was it took a couple of days for the leak to show up. It was on a jack stand because I was replacing the a/c compressor (not a fun job.) I tracked down the leak as best I could. It appears to be down where the thermostat and those two connections are. I already ordered a new thermostat because if I'm in there I might well replace it. The service manual is lacking in detail for that area of the coolant system and planetisuzoo seems to be quiet right now....With the intake still on I can see a pool of coolant in the middle but it's not toward the front where the housing is. The drips to the ground are going down the front and back of the engine. I can't recall if there were small holes there or not but it makes sense. So I'm wondering if there is a connection (o-ring or gasket) where the thermostat housing goes to that tube under the intake? Is there any other connections under there except the thermostat (if there is one), the line from the TB and the other line from the main housing? I'm just trying to see what parts to order because I'm on a time crunch. I hope it's not a crack or or whatever in the cylinder block...Thanks for any help! Scott
... thanks. For this whole a$$ thing you did with your isuzu. It has really really helped.
Hi Matt . Best video on rodeo thermostat replacement.
Can you tell me what kind of hoses are those two by the thermostat? Are they regular fuel hoses ? Thank you.
Almost ✅ done! Please share if the check engine light comes off by itself or do I have to use OBD scanner to get rid of it?
THANK YOU !
My hat is off to" MATT PAYNE" for his video series regarding his wife's 2001 Isuzu Rodeo. I have the need as of this time to replace the cooling system thermostat in my wife's 2000 Honda Passport (which I donated to my granddaughter to travel to and from college, she begins in late August.) The 2000 Passport runs great, it drives great, it rides great and it still looks great. It has always been a wonderful vehicle. Approximately 7000/8000 miles ago, I replaced the timing belt/all pulleys& tensioners water pump, belts, hoses, plugs etc etc etc. I didn't do the thermostat then because of where it is located, although I had originally planned to at that time.
I am a somewhat old fart that tends to shy away from some so-called experts because of experiences I have had with untightened bolts, missing and/or lost brackets, etc. In the last 35/40 years I have brought my vehicle to "an expert" maybe 4 or 5 times, mainly for AC work or automatic transmission repairs (not filters changes). I also like to save money when possible and it feels good to accomplish new things.
I had already begun disconnecting things (on the Passport) and drawing a schematic of sorts to help me remember how to put it back together. I am 67 years old and don't always remember as well as in the past years. I had quite a back done and was pulling up the fuel rail w/ the injectors still attached to it. I was ready to remove the 4 corner nuts to the lower manifold and had already removed the long bolts w/grounds. Then I kind of lost my nerve. There were things that I couldn't see and frankly I just don't have the same balls that I used to have. I decided to at least shop around a little before going further. I put everything back together and started the car up again. Hmmmm!! What did I do ???? After getting the car started up again... I began to regret that I had kinda like chickened out. In the not so distant past there is "no way" that I would have done that.
I went online and ONCE AGAIN I came across Matt's videos. I did not watch them the first time around but this time I patiently started at the beginning and watched everything.... even the stuff that I had already figured on my own. I began to realize that Matt Payne is like me in many ways. I saw how neat and organized he was and he admits that he is NOT a pro, however, you can see that he takes pride in his work and he is sure of himself as he progresses in his project. His workplace and the end result of his project is CLEAN and impressive.
I watched in the entireity the 1st five videos. I was and still am very impressed by the detail and effort MATT PAYNE put into those videos. Those videos answered every question I had and even some I didn't think of. These very well made and extremely informative videos have turned me around and sent me back to work on that 2000 Passport. I have absolutely no doubts and/or questions after watching Matt's videos.
Once again I say.... "MATT PAYNE.... MY HAT IS OFF TO YOU. THANK YOU FOR BEING SO GENEROUS WITH YOUR VIDEOS. YOU HAVE MOST CERTAINLY BEEN A HUGE ASSET TO ME IN MY ENDEAVORS REGARDING THE PROJECT THAT I ALMOST GAVE UP ON. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU !!!!!
Ricky Romero Ricky, thank you so much for your incredibly kind words! I don't feel at all deserving of such praise, but it certainly is rewarding to hear from people that found my videos helpful. As I have commented before, my videos are created with the sole intent of helping people who are not professionals, but who would like to tackle a project on their own and are just lacking a bit of confidence that they can handle it. I myself fall into that category many times...I will doubt whether or not I am capable of making a certain repair until I've done enough research to feel comfortable with it. Most people are capable of doing much more than they themselves believe....it just takes a little bit of assistance to realize that sometimes. In my own experience, being able to see a picture/diagram helps immensely, but actually seeing a video makes even more impact. It's always my hope that my videos will help someone reach the point of being confident they can try something on their own (in other words - "if he can do it with no previous experience, then I can too!"). To that end, my videos tend to be long and very detail-oriented, but I want to include as much information as I can to aid folks who might be trying a repair for the first time.
Congratulations to you for having the courage to tackle this project! You should be very proud that you have maintained your vehicles on your own for most of your life. There is pride in ownership, but even moreso in knowing that your own two hands have cared for a vehicle for most/all of its existence. Well done! I know your granddaughter must be extremely grateful for your generosity and for helping care for her "new" vehicle. She has been given a vehicle that should serve her well for many years to come because you have maintained it well.
Thank you again so much for your compliments. I am truly humbled by your words. I'm not sure I can adequately express the feeling of satisfaction I get when I hear from folks like you that say they were helped by one of my videos. I will continue to create and post videos for that very reason.
Thanks again, and may your granddaughter enjoy many more miles in her Passport....I think they are really cool vehicles!
God bless.
Were the two hoses that set behind the t-stat housing-do you think that they were the same size 5/8 ?
That's one super clean hose clamp LMAO
Hey Matt, thanks for the VERY helpful video. Question, I have a sticking thermostat on my 2001 Rodeo. Looking at your video it looks like I have to take the entire intake manifold off to get to the thermostat for replacement. Am I right on this?
Flying Fish Guy, yes, I tried and got the bolts out, with much difficulty, but the flange won’t come out the front. Sorry but you have no other option but to take the whole common chamber off. You do not need to remove the injectors or fuel rail though.
idud a thermostat,yesterday I used a 12mm swivel socket 3/4 drive. I took off the heater hose, removed the throttle body, unbolted front water pump heater hoseblock then I used the 12mm swivel, 2 6 inch extensionsto on a 3/4 drive socket remove the metal tube where thermostat was
Question when removing the EGR valve, important which way did you turn the threads to disconnect the EGR valve? Does it go up the pipe into the EGR valve, or does it go down. 🤔
I just removed mine last week . The tubing nut is right hand. I had to use an open end wrench moving towards the firewall. 22mm . I hope that makes sense.
@mikunan thanks my new friend, and I appreciate your input .😎👍
Dear Mark Payne, can you do a video on where the vacuum hose on the manifold intake ( you labeled it Q) go? I've been looking for this every where and I cant seem to find anything. I'm pretty sure there's other people having this same problem help us please. Thanks
Question where is the knock sensor on a Isuzu Trooper
Hello there. Thank you very much videonuz.
I will just change the thermostat. Do you need to remove the crowd manifold? Only the intake manifold and other parts are sufficient. thank you so much.
Hi, I'm sorry for the delayed response! I am not sure I totally understand your question, but yes, you do need to remove the entire intake manifold (upper and lower) to replace the thermostat. I have read that a few people managed to change the thermostat by only removing the water manifold and leaving the intake manifold in place, but after having done this repair myself, I do not see any way to do that.
I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Matt , Great video , followed all your advice so far so good. One key question for you? When you put the manifold back onto the engine , Did you already have the fuel rail hooked up to it , and or how did you get the fuel line "Y" Bracket bolts on without damaging the IMG gasket. Basically was the fuel rail in the rodeo before setting in the manifold? Any help appreciated thanks , already for videos
Alex Lamar Thanks for the kind words, Alex! Let's see if I can help you out a little...if you go to about the 4:10 mark in Part 3 of this video series, you can see the fuel rail still lying in the engine compartment after I have removed the manifold. I ended up leaving it in the engine bay, still connected to the fuel supply lines, for the duration of the repair. I kind of just tied it up out of my way, and then when I was ready to re-install everything, I dropped the manifold down into place and then set the fuel rail back on top of it.
With regard to the fuel line "Y" bracket bolts on the back of the intake....I totally cheated. I didn't re-install them. It was so aggravating to remove them in the first place, I wanted no part of trying to re-connect them. So I left them off. Probably not the right way to do it...but I haven't lost any sleep over it. Haha.
I hope this answers your questions. Let me know if you need anything else. I'll try to help out any way that I can. Good luck!
Thanx buddy just seemed, like impossible task I couldn't figure out how to do it so there you go just dont connect them lol. Cheers mate !
Alex Lamar Yep, pretty much! Good luck!
hello matt. Thanks for the video. I just need to replace the thermostat. Can that be done with out removing the intake? any tips would be appreciated. Thanks
Jared Bilbrey Hi Jared, while I have read of several people who claimed to have replaced the thermostat without removing the intake, I honestly have no idea how they managed to do it, let alone have any confidence that they got a good seal on the thermostat housing. I think it's best to bite the bullet and remove the intake, which will give you the opportunity to thoroughly clean the inside of the intake, as well as the EGR tube, and also replace the coolant hoses that run in the engine valley under the intake. It's a bit of a process, but in my opinion it's just not feasible to get to the thermostat any other way.
Good luck!
***** Thank you for the info.
really like to see a video of thermostat removal, without removing intake manifold?
I have to change thermostat on my 2004 rodeo. Sounds the same as :As I Am comments.
+artdecco Though I have no idea how anyone can pull that off, I have heard several people say they did it. I just can't fathom how. I'm not saying they aren't telling the truth...they just possess more ingenuity than I do.
Impossible
I also have a rear main seal leak. I wonder if it would be easier to just pull the whole engine then remove this intake manifold? Im not looking forward to that EGR and the fuel rail issue on the drivers side. Regardless, your video couldnt have been more helpful and thorough.
Hmm, to replace the rear main seal it might make removing the engine worth it. But, I'm not all that familiar with accessing the rear main seal on this vehicle so I'm not totally sure.
Honestly, the intake isn't that bad knowing what I know now. If I had to do it again, I think I could get it removed in a few hours. The hardest part the first time was not knowing the little tricks like how to remove the fuel pressure regulator bracket or not knowing the fuel lines were connected to the back of the intake. If you know that going in, and are at all mechanically inclined (and you sound to be even more so than I am), you should be able to knock this out with no problem. It was in that spirit that I created these videos, so other people wouldn't have to do it blind like I did.
Drop me a line if you get stumped by something and I'll try to help if I can. Good luck!
did you have to get any gaskets when you reattached the water manifold?
Jared Bilbrey Hey Jared, I had to purchase two gaskets and two O-rings for the water manifold...see the diagram linked below. I believe the gaskets are labeled #160 and the O-rings are labeled #122 and #138 in this diagram.
estore.honda.com/honda/parts/view-honda-parts-catalog-detail.asp?m=2001-passport-4-4ex-l-4at&sn=&b=E++1810&dl=
Good luck!
There was a little gasket on the rigid line into the manifold right?
Yes, that is correct - the rigid lines have rubber O-rings. Check out this link:
www.hondapartsunlimited.com/auto-parts/2002/honda/passport/4lx-trim/4-speed-automatic-engine/engine-cat/thermostat-piping-scat
Would a bad thermostat cause my Rodeo to never reach "warm" temperatures? no matter what, the gauge stays halfway between cold and warm. Which causes the heat to never fully get hot.
+OFF2theGYM A bad thermostat could definitely cause that issue if the thermostat fails in the open position, which would allow the engine coolant to continuously cycle through the radiator and be cooled off. However, when you say the temperature gauge stays halfway between cold and arm, do you mean the needle is in the dead center of the gauge? If so, that is normal, and your problem could be as simple as having air trapped in your coolant system, which will probably remain in heater core and prevent the exchange of heat between the core and the air being blown across it in your HVAC ductwork. In that case, you should park your vehicle aimed up a slight incline, let the engine cool off, and then remove the radiator cap. Then re-start the engine and let it warm up and idle for a while. If there is any air trapped in the coolant system, this should allow it to escape by raising the radiator above the rest of the system. Then check the coolant level and top off as necessary, and replace the radiator cap. Hopefully after that, your heat will work better.
Good luck!
كم قطر الثيرموسات ؟؟ المقاس ؟؟
Standard thermostat size. 😉
Water manifold??
All this just for a thermostat replacement?
Yeah...pretty ridiculous, isn't it? I wish I would have thought to install a remote T-stat/housing when I did this repair. It sure would make future replacement easier.
my 3.5 trooper needs a new thermostat. not looking forward to changing it! lol
Good luck, Cody! It's definitely a pain to do, but not all that difficult. It's just a shame the engineer decided to locate the thermostat below the intake manifold. Just take your time and you'll be fine. Thanks for watching!
Man. I have the same problem. 0 compression in cylinder 6. I wish I will be as lucky and theirs something in there but it's probably a bad valve. If it was a broken or bent valve, wouldn't it make a noise like a rattle ? I'm like you. This is the worst motor I have ever worked on
I have one isuzu now I know why stop to make more
stupid design for a thermostat housing location.
nothing like working behind a hack mechanic !!!!!
guuba gaaba Yeah, it was extremely frustrating to have to go through all of that because of a careless mistake by a mechanic that I paid to do a job. Even though I did this repair myself, I was already down several hundred dollars because I originally had the vehicle towed to another shop when it first broke down. They first recommended a fuel injector service, then recommended a new battery, then finally did a compression check (which probably should have been the first step). Oh well, I was just glad the hose clamp didn't make it inside the combustion chamber and blow up my engine...