I know this is an old video, but I just wanted to let you know this helped give me exactly the result I wanted. I'm knitting toe up socks with a flap and gusset heel (or a fake one, I suppose, since there's no actual flap with stitches to pick up) for someone with narrow ankles and wanted to do a few more decreases once the heel turn was complete. I wanted to sneak them in smoothly along the heel turn mirrored decreases, and the modified ssk was fine to carry on, but I had to replace a p2tog with something because I was working in the round again, and this worked far better than a K2tog, which was at a totally different angle from the other decreases. Magic! Er, I hope that explanation made sense! Anyway, I think that at least for me if you have for some reason a line of P2tog decreases, this KSP will match it far better than a K2tog - or at least it worked that way for me.
bloody genius! I knit english and continental and in both cases I am quite open with my grip or closed depending upon the yarn type and texture, some yarns have much more give and slide and others are, well, just tougher. I kind of go into auto pilot knit and my hands do what is necessary to get the job done and I often change back and forth between continental and english, at the end of rows of course, checking my tension and stitch formations to see they match up. Just love that knitting!~ Never really thought I would say that when I was a solitary crochetter….great video
Great video Roxanne! I, too, was wondering why, but I knew you’d get to it, lol! This is quite interesting and I’m so glad you made this amazing tutorial. I’ll definitely be watching this again and swatching! Thanks so much!💞
This is something I’ve never thought about. Thank you for covering this and I am a close hand continental knitter! Now I will use this technique to make sure both sides matches. 🥰
When I first saw this video title, I thought "but... why?!" I knew I'd learn something, though, and I'm glad I clicked! Your method for doing right-leaning decreases involving multiple stitches was a new one for me, as was that wonderful tip for doing SSP on the wrong side instead of SSK on the right side. Thanks for this video and for sharing your knowledge and expertise!
That's great. I really like the SSP matched with the K2tog and will definitely use this. Enough of fiddling with SSKs! Thank you, Roxanne. Great tutorial as always.
My head is spinning. I didn't buy the Soxploration pattern because I saw Denise's shadow wrap tutorial and just knew I wouldn't be able to knit that triple stitch together. Now I'm wondering if I should give it a try with one of your alternatives here 🤔
I had occasion to use the second method in one of my current projects, a pair of fingerless mittens which called for K2tog's in the very first row after casting on, and my cast-on stitches are way too tight for that. Knit, slip back on left needle, slip the second one over the first was a safer (because I just knew I'd end up dropping the new stitches and I could do without that) and much more comfortable method for a right-leaning decrease.
What is the very best way to decrease on the front neck left and right edges for sweaters if using an aran or seed stitch pattern where the stitches aren't always both purl or both knit at the ends or beginnings of rows? I am asking this because I want the best edge finishes for neat stitches that have to be picked up to complete the neckbands. Is it better to decrease on the third and second last stitches of the row for the left side shaping? Where the decrease is for the right side neck edge is it better to decrease on the second and third stitches in the beginning of the row?
One knitter's definition of "best" is not always the same as another. I typically keep the selvedge stitch in stockinette, which facilitates PU sts. I work the decreases based on whether I am trying to maintain the stitch pattern next to the selvedge stitch, or if I want to create a defined line of stockinette sts adjacent to the selvedge. If I want that defined line of knits, then I work a knit decrease, regardless of what the sts would have been if there were no decreases worked, and I lean them away from the neck edge. k2tog leans right; ssk/skp leans left. If I want to *maintain* the stitch pattern right up to the selvedge, then I lean the decreases *toward* the selvedge, and they are worked so that they maintain the pattern of the 3rd st. This maintains st patt continuity with the 4th st (which becomes the 3rd st after the decrease is worked). This also works when decreasing in a colorwork pattern. A right-leaning decrease would be k2tog or p2tog; a left leaning decrease would be ssk or ssp, depending on if the result needs to be a knit or purl.
awesome demonstration.....Rox Rocks!!!!!!!!....will you do a technique tuesday of alternate ssk.....how about right double decrease, left double decrease, central double decrease....and of course you can do more then double....there's triple, quadruple, etc....my favorite multiple is the central 5 decrease
I linked to a playlist of all my videos on increasing and decreasing in the end screen, and down in the video description there are links to individual videos mentioned within the video, such as a comparison of SSK, SKP, and k2tog tbl, which also includes various alternate left-leaning decreases.
I’m trying to decrease a K3 P2 rib on the right and wrong side and keeping pattern correct, I’m leaving three sts at each end so I get a nice pick up for the rib for around the arms (sleeveless pullover). I can get the SSK \ to look nice on the right side, it’s nice and flat, but the K2tog / on the right side is not tidy. On the wrong side, I use SSK at start of the row and P2tbl - or should that be K2tbl? I also end up with 6 knit sts instead of 3k and 2p. Any suggestions as to where I might be going wrong.?
The back side of a k2tog is a p2tog. The back side of an ssk is an ssp (some people will do a p2togtbl, instead, which gives a twisted result). If you are working the k2tog/ssk in the 3rd and 4th sts from the edge, then after you've done two decreases at a given edge, you will have eliminated the two purl sts, and will have 6 consecutive knits. After you've done 3 more decreases at that edge, you will have eliminated 3 knits, and the pattern will be back to k3p2. I have no idea why your k2tog is not tidy. For most knitters, the k2tog is tidy and the ssk is a little "leggier." You can always start a new discussion thread in my Ravelry group (there's a link at the bottom of the description box of every vieo), and post a photo there, so we can see what the potential issue might be.
So what do we do on THE OTHER (or wrong) side of the work, we purl all stitches or what? Nobody seems to explain that part. It's always what to do on the right side and never on the wrong side!
In *most* cases, shaping is done on the RS of the work because it's easier to count rows on the stockinette side of the fabric to determine whether or not it's time for a decrease than on the reverse side. So, yes, in most cases, you'd work the sts on the WS as they present (whether they were knits, purls, or some combination of the two). If there is a reason to work decreases on the WS (maybe you need to decrease on every row for a while), the back side of a k2tog is a p2tog, and the back side of an ssk is an ssp.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you for your reply and clarification. I think it would be great if you would make a video making a Swatch to include working several rows ie the decreases on one side AND what happens on the other side after we finish the decrease row. I try to practice and my swatch never looks like your swatch.
I know this is an old video, but I just wanted to let you know this helped give me exactly the result I wanted. I'm knitting toe up socks with a flap and gusset heel (or a fake one, I suppose, since there's no actual flap with stitches to pick up) for someone with narrow ankles and wanted to do a few more decreases once the heel turn was complete. I wanted to sneak them in smoothly along the heel turn mirrored decreases, and the modified ssk was fine to carry on, but I had to replace a p2tog with something because I was working in the round again, and this worked far better than a K2tog, which was at a totally different angle from the other decreases. Magic!
Er, I hope that explanation made sense! Anyway, I think that at least for me if you have for some reason a line of P2tog decreases, this KSP will match it far better than a K2tog - or at least it worked that way for me.
Thanks Roxanne. I always learn so much from you.
bloody genius! I knit english and continental and in both cases I am quite open with my grip or closed depending upon the yarn type and texture, some yarns have much more give and slide and others are, well, just tougher. I kind of go into auto pilot knit and my hands do what is necessary to get the job done and I often change back and forth between continental and english, at the end of rows of course, checking my tension and stitch formations to see they match up. Just love that knitting!~ Never really thought I would say that when I was a solitary crochetter….great video
I always learn stuff, Roxanne. Thanks once again.
Great video Roxanne! I, too, was wondering why, but I knew you’d get to it, lol! This is quite interesting and I’m so glad you made this amazing tutorial. I’ll definitely be watching this again and swatching! Thanks so much!💞
This is something I’ve never thought about. Thank you for covering this and I am a close hand continental knitter! Now I will use this technique to make sure both sides matches. 🥰
When I first saw this video title, I thought "but... why?!" I knew I'd learn something, though, and I'm glad I clicked! Your method for doing right-leaning decreases involving multiple stitches was a new one for me, as was that wonderful tip for doing SSP on the wrong side instead of SSK on the right side. Thanks for this video and for sharing your knowledge and expertise!
Thank you for this, this is exactly what I’ve been looking for!
That's great. I really like the SSP matched with the K2tog and will definitely use this. Enough of fiddling with SSKs! Thank you, Roxanne. Great tutorial as always.
Hope you are doing well. Starting my first project in the round and this is so helpful. Thank you
Very helpful. Thank you.
My head is spinning. I didn't buy the Soxploration pattern because I saw Denise's shadow wrap tutorial and just knew I wouldn't be able to knit that triple stitch together. Now I'm wondering if I should give it a try with one of your alternatives here 🤔
I had occasion to use the second method in one of my current projects, a pair of fingerless mittens which called for K2tog's in the very first row after casting on, and my cast-on stitches are way too tight for that. Knit, slip back on left needle, slip the second one over the first was a safer (because I just knew I'd end up dropping the new stitches and I could do without that) and much more comfortable method for a right-leaning decrease.
Thank you!
What is the very best way to decrease on the front neck left and right edges for sweaters if using an aran or seed stitch pattern where the stitches aren't always both purl or both knit at the ends or beginnings of rows? I am asking this because I want the best edge finishes for neat stitches that have to be picked up to complete the neckbands. Is it better to decrease on the third and second last stitches of the row for the left side shaping? Where the decrease is for the right side neck edge is it better to decrease on the second and third stitches in the beginning of the row?
One knitter's definition of "best" is not always the same as another. I typically keep the selvedge stitch in stockinette, which facilitates PU sts. I work the decreases based on whether I am trying to maintain the stitch pattern next to the selvedge stitch, or if I want to create a defined line of stockinette sts adjacent to the selvedge. If I want that defined line of knits, then I work a knit decrease, regardless of what the sts would have been if there were no decreases worked, and I lean them away from the neck edge. k2tog leans right; ssk/skp leans left. If I want to *maintain* the stitch pattern right up to the selvedge, then I lean the decreases *toward* the selvedge, and they are worked so that they maintain the pattern of the 3rd st. This maintains st patt continuity with the 4th st (which becomes the 3rd st after the decrease is worked). This also works when decreasing in a colorwork pattern. A right-leaning decrease would be k2tog or p2tog; a left leaning decrease would be ssk or ssp, depending on if the result needs to be a knit or purl.
awesome demonstration.....Rox Rocks!!!!!!!!....will you do a technique tuesday of alternate ssk.....how about right double decrease, left double decrease, central double decrease....and of course you can do more then double....there's triple, quadruple, etc....my favorite multiple is the central 5 decrease
I linked to a playlist of all my videos on increasing and decreasing in the end screen, and down in the video description there are links to individual videos mentioned within the video, such as a comparison of SSK, SKP, and k2tog tbl, which also includes various alternate left-leaning decreases.
I’m trying to decrease a K3 P2 rib on the right and wrong side and keeping pattern correct, I’m leaving three sts at each end so I get a nice pick up for the rib for around the arms (sleeveless pullover). I can get the SSK \ to look nice on the right side, it’s nice and flat, but the K2tog / on the right side is not tidy. On the wrong side, I use SSK at start of the row and P2tbl - or should that be K2tbl? I also end up with 6 knit sts instead of 3k and 2p.
Any suggestions as to where I might be going wrong.?
The back side of a k2tog is a p2tog. The back side of an ssk is an ssp (some people will do a p2togtbl, instead, which gives a twisted result). If you are working the k2tog/ssk in the 3rd and 4th sts from the edge, then after you've done two decreases at a given edge, you will have eliminated the two purl sts, and will have 6 consecutive knits. After you've done 3 more decreases at that edge, you will have eliminated 3 knits, and the pattern will be back to k3p2. I have no idea why your k2tog is not tidy. For most knitters, the k2tog is tidy and the ssk is a little "leggier." You can always start a new discussion thread in my Ravelry group (there's a link at the bottom of the description box of every vieo), and post a photo there, so we can see what the potential issue might be.
@@RoxanneRichardson thank you. I was doing it wrong 🙄, it’s looking neater now.
hello, in my pattern ws is P2 ,patt to last 2sts ,p2 plz explain
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Am I getting crazy and seeing things or the continental K2tog alternative really looks like the Norwegian purl somehow? 🤔
No - you're not crazy. While it isn't the same as a Norwegian purl it definitely has some moves in common with it.
So what do we do on THE OTHER (or wrong) side of the work, we purl all stitches or what? Nobody seems to explain that part. It's always what to do on the right side and never on the wrong side!
In *most* cases, shaping is done on the RS of the work because it's easier to count rows on the stockinette side of the fabric to determine whether or not it's time for a decrease than on the reverse side. So, yes, in most cases, you'd work the sts on the WS as they present (whether they were knits, purls, or some combination of the two). If there is a reason to work decreases on the WS (maybe you need to decrease on every row for a while), the back side of a k2tog is a p2tog, and the back side of an ssk is an ssp.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you for your reply and clarification. I think it would be great if you would make a video making a Swatch to include working several rows ie the decreases on one side AND what happens on the other side after we finish the decrease row. I try to practice and my swatch never looks like your swatch.
Жаль , английский не знаю, было бы интересно послушать.