“You can always know which way the decrease is pointing by direction the right needle points”. Lightbulb moment! Thank you! Love your videos because they break it all down so you can understand how and why. You can get so much more out of your knitting when you understand it rather than just do it.
Oh, I finally get it! One stitch will have to be on top and whatever direction the top stitch leans is the direction of the decrease. Why did it never occur to me that of course if you're decreasing one stitch will have to be on top of the other? I just love you. You just changed my knitting life.
Thank you, this is exactly what I needed to fix the problem I have on a little baby cardi where the sewing up looks so untidy. Gotta pull everything back to the armholes and reknit it but otherwise it was heading for the bin. Brilliant simple explanations. Look forward to checking out more of your videos.
GREAT video, Roxanne! Very educational and purposeful. You explained everything in great detail without over-explaining. I also love that you put the "time jumps" in the description, as this is great information when/if someone is in need of coming back to the video in order to execute, or simply be reminded of a specific technique. Good, good stuff all the way around! I am now subscribing to your channel. Thank you for your time, and happy knitting! 😊
Thank you that was so very interesting and will help me to have a lovely finish on the cable sweater I am knitting at the moment. It seems crazy that so much care is put into the knitting patterns with the abbreviations and special abbreviations listed even explaining stocking stitch and 1x1 rib but absolutely nothing about how to work 6 rows dec 1 stitch at each end of every row. Using the techniques that you show in your video will help to make my sweater look amazing instead of just ok. 🌺
So helpful and informative. Thank you! Like the idea of experimenting with the look of decreases. I have tended to think of them as structural rather than adornment. Thanks too for showing the stitches IRL. I too am a big fan of Norah G.
Such a great and easy video tutorial to follow. Im a new (2 months) knitter that can basically only do the cast on, knit and purl stitches and the bind of. Did a mini swatch of a v-neck top, but the left side locked wonky. Now I understand why. I did try to mirror the right decreses(k2tog) but it looked wierd on the left side and I understand why after looking at this video. But with this video tutorial I can actually make a nice looking summer top now. Thank you so much! :D
I would love to know how to get the pattern for the "summer top" (purple) with the decorative basketweave/cable up the sleeve. Your videos are the clearest (both in filming and in the verbal instructions), best organized (in the visual presentation and in the logical organization of the material), and most informative -- you even broach subjects others don't think of to teach. It's especially helpful to a medium to advanced knitter like me, because you answer questions I haven't even found anyone to ask. Thank you so much!
The purple top is on my project page here: www.ravelry.com/projects/Rox/ogunquit You can get a link to the pattern from there, and read my project notes.
Hi Rox! Again you rock! Very helpful video, I’m about hooked on them and I’m using the techniques you are giving to improve my work. Again thank you!!! Have a wonderful day!!!
Thanks so much for your videos! I’m a beginner and now with your video I know how to do the decrease knitting from the left side of the garment but when I get to the other side of the garment before turning over to decrease the same on that side like a raglan front (separate pieces), do I do the same sts to get same look. Oh well. I’m going to have to look for other videos. No worries. Was hoping it was on your video because the title is “at each end “…
Great tutorial. The close ups of were you chose to decrease was very helpful. I don't know if you have done a video on increasing. I am always befuddled as to which increase to use.
Most increases have a mirror that leans in the opposite direction (kfb is an exception, as it has no lean at all), so you can mirror them, just as you can mirror decreases. Often, you can use whichever increase you prefer, but some of them do have practical limits for the number of times you can use them in a row, or how frequently you can use them (row after row).
Thank you for this!! I'm new to knitting, and I wanted to do a wavy blanket, mirrored increases and decreases, but couldn't sort out the decreases until now. So again, thank you for sharing your expertise!
Here's my Ravelry project page for that sweater www.ravelry.com/projects/Rox/gray-silhouette. People ask about it, every time I wear it in a video, but I still haven't written it up as a pattern. I really should...
Can I please have the pattern for the sweater you are wearing in this video? I am ready to pay for the patter. This way all that you explained in this video, will be very clear to me and will be excellent learning. Thank you.
Hi Roxanne! any chance you can do a tutorial on the cockleshells pattern from the book 'The essential stitch collection' I'm fine until 9th row, where I have to knit into the stitch below... and it's a 3 wrap long stitch with the wraps dropped in row 8. I just get so stuck. 😄
I have a number of videos on decreases, including purl-side decreases. You might want to check the playlist on my channel for increases and decreases. This one in particular might be helpful. ua-cam.com/video/Hdn4PXhHZs0/v-deo.html
Hi Roxanne, I'm a little confused. When describing the decreases at the beginning you say that birth the k2tig and the ssk lean to the right. Yet later when you said if one wanted"instructions" it would be ssk knit ti last three Stuttgart k2tog. So does that mean the ssk means left? I'm blind and rely on your words to explain the procedures and I'm confused. I have a baby blanket I'm creating where I chose to place a yo the stitches from the edge to make a decorative line of "holes" up both sides. I'm working c2c so I know his much yarn I use increasing and can make sure I have enough for the decrease side of the blanket. My QUESTION is when I start decreasing what would be the prettiest way. From the video it sounds like I would k3, yo, k1 ssk k to last 7 st, k2tog, k1, yo k3. Will this give the prettiest result? Before I usually just k2yog art each end and worked a crochet edge around the finished blanket. In trying to expand my creativity, but realized I don't know the best way to decrease abs bit have wonky looking stitches inside the pattern. Thank you so much did your videos. I learn from all of them and if I listen long enough I can usually figure out where you are talking about when you say something like, "I worked one knit stich then ssk here" or "I worked k2tog at the knit at here". Would you consider verbally identifying the area you are referring to in the examples? Something like, "I work k1 ssk at the right armhole and k2tog k1 at the left armhole." That would make it easier for me to picture it in my mind. It's just a suggestion, as I said if I listen long enough I can usually future it out. Thanks again for your input. Heidi
I sometimes misspeak when I record. I might say knit instead of purl or right instead of left. I don't notice it until I'm editing, so I handle the correction by putting text on the screen in big bold letters that correct what it is I have said. A k2tog leans right, and an ssk leans left. When you work two stitches together, one of them ends up on top of the other. If you work a k2tog, the stitch on the left will end up on top, and the appearance in the fabric will be that it's leaning to the right. When you work an ssk decrease, the stitch on the right ends up on top, so the result appears to lean left. If you work a k2tog in the 2nd and 3rd stitchess from the end of the row every other row multiple times, that 2nd to last stitch will always be on top, and will create a defined line of stitches. If you do a k2tog in the 2nd and 3rd stitch at the start of a row, it will always be the 3rd stitch that ends up on top, and that will change every time. The decreases at that edge will not form a defined line, they will be more subtle. The two edges will not look symmetrical. So for mirroring the decreases the choice is to either have a defined line at both edges by mirroring the decreases with an ssk near the beginning and a k2tog near the end, or you can mirror them by making the decreases more subtle at both edges, by using a k2tog near the start of the row and an ssk near the end. I hope that helps, and I'm sorry for the confusion.
Thanks for this great video. My important takeaway was learning that left or right lean relates to the direction of the needles. Duh! I never noticed that before.
It's so helpful to know this! When I'm thinking about which decrease to use I think of the lean I want, and then visualize the needle pointing in that direction, and then I know which one to use. You'd think I would just know by this time, but I need to relate it to a visual/physical memory, not just as a memorized fact.
I'm the same way. I still have to sing the Kitchener song to get it right--but at least I no longer have to refer to a book or video each time to relearn it--finally.
very well explained, however my pattern asked for decrease a stitch at each end of the next two rows, which means on a purl row too, for the start of the raglan sleeve
This was so so helpful but i do have question. What would you do when pattern says bind off two stitches at end of row? So instead of saying decrease as in your example it says bind off. I have several patterns that say that and I'm not sure I'm doing correctly. Thanks so much
Roxanne Richardson Thanks Rox for getting back to me. Let me give you an example of what I'm talking about. The is talking about shaping armhole it says bind off at each end 2 sts once, then 1 st on every 2nd row a certain number of times. Now to me how can you bind off at each end? Also at neck shaping you bind some many sts at center for neck and finish each side sep. At neck edge bind off on every 2nd row 2 sts once more. Not the best instructions. I love your channel. I learned to knit from a instructor in my town that claimed to tought techniques but she never could remember which dec was right or left leaning and she never broke things down the way you do. She would show a technique like kfb and you would have to do a whole scarf with using only that of course with k or p sts but the whole project was on one skill. I think i wasted a whole lot of money. Lol I only found utube videos because she passed away from cancer (bless her heart) but i must say I've learned so much more from you and others and I'm very greatful that people like you share your craft with the world! You really are the best!
That sounds to me like European pattern formatting, where they use the same word for dec and BO. Again, you *can* BO instead of dec, but it is assumed that you will know that you will BO at the start of a row. So a RS left edge will be BO the start of a WS row, while you will BO on the right edge at the start of a RS row. For each edge, you are BO every other row, just not both of them on the same row. Sometimes the pattern instructions are far more tersely presented, with numbers, so that they are obvious across Europe (less translating of actual words is needed). So in your example, the instructions could, instead, be presented as dec (or BO) each end 2x1, 1x8 (or however many times you do the single dec), and then you are supposed to know whether that is for both edges or just one!
Roxanne Richardson yes i think itd European and that's what i did bo at begging of each row whether rs or ws but now watching your video i can choose dec instead. You are the best, keep up the great work!
I used an existing pattern for the silhouette, which was originally knit in the round with color work with steeked armholes and neck (the pattern is no longer available). I needed to knit a vest for Level II of the Master Hand Knitting program, but it had to have seams, so I modified the pattern to knit it flat, and changed the stitch pattern to the cables and lace. All of that is to say that there is no pattern for it.
Your videos are great, very clear and concise. I like that. Thank you. I have a related question, but about the sleeve caps. I am just now knitting my first ever sleeve cap and the pattern says “dec at beginning and end of every other row. I have just decreased (bound off) 14 stitches for the under arm. I thought perhaps that was an error, and so I proceeded to bind off 1 stitch at the beginning only of every row. Now I’m thinking I should be doing ssk and k2tog instead, as you have just demonstrated. It doesn’t look like you are doing that on your sleeve caps though. Please help! Again thanks.
Usually, for sleeve caps and armhole shaping, you will have some initial BO to do, and then you will work the rest of the sleeve cap shaping through single decreases. You *could* BO, but you'll end up with a rather jagged edge to seam in, so working a decrease a stitch or two in from the edge will give a result that provides that nice column of plain stockinette stitches right at the edge. Note that European patterns that are translated do not tend to differentiate between a BO and a dec. They use the same word, and would leave it to you to decide how you want to do that.
Yes. ;-) I had no idea about decrease lean before the MHK program, but I recognized that sometimes, my results looked...not great...on some projects, compared to others. Then, of course, when I found other knitters, I learned from them. And then...once you know a fair bit, you can just figure things out, or experiment to see what happens. You learn the most by asking, "What if...?" and then swatching to find the answer.
It's so funny that you would post this video because I just ran into this problem today in a cardigan I'm working on. I was just wondering though, since my pattern uses an Irish moss stitch and I don't really have very many knit stitches right next to eachother, would I still work the decreases like you do here for stockinette or would I have to do something different
If you want to maintain the stitch pattern right up to the edge (leaving the selvedge in stockinette, for easy seaming), you can work decreases that maintain the stitch pattern. Use a decrease that puts the st furthest from the edge on top. So at the RS right edge of the fabric, if the 3rd st is supposed to be a knit, work the 2nd and 3rd st together as a k2tog. If it's supposed to be a purl, then p2tog. At the left edge of the RS, if the 3rd st in should be a knit, then work an ssk, if it's supposed to be a purl, then ssp. I did an article on this years ago in my old Ask a Knitter column, which you can find here: www.ravelry.com/twir/80/ask-a-knitter-22 It covers various scenarios for maintaining stitch pattern, including textured stitch patterns like moss stitch and seed stitch.
I use a variety of needles. In this video, I was probably using Signature Needle Arts videos, but I also like Addi Lace, KnitPicks, and ChiaoGoo needles.
Every row means every row, regardless of how it's worked. If you're knitting in stockinette, then the stitch pattern is a right side (RS) knit row alternating with a wrong side (WS) purl row. If you're working in some other stitch pattern, you'll have RS rows and WS rows that are worked however the pattern dictates. Every alternate row = every other row. So if you have established decreases on a RS row, and you are supposed to continue to do them on alternate rows, that means you will do them every RS row. If you're told to do them on "alternate RS rows", then you are doing them every other RS row, in other words, every 4 rows.
I have a couple of questions about raglan decrease instructions. I am making the Mahakam sweater (knitty.com/ISSUEff20/PATTmahakam/PATTmahakam.php) in a men's 2XL (if that matters), which is knit flat, bottom up, and am at the point where I am to begin the raglan shaping. The instructions state: “working rows as outlined below, starting with a RS Dec row, work a Dec row every 4 rows … [3] times total; work a Dec row every 2 rows … [29] times …” There is a ssk (or ssp) decrease and a k2tog (or p2tog) decrease on each Dec row, on both right and wrong sides. My question is what is meant by “every 4 rows”. That is, do I decrease on the fourth row or on the fifth row, as follows: 1st row: decrease 2 sts, 2d row: no decrease, 3d row: no decrease, 4th row: do I decrease on this row, or do I decrease on the next row? And am I correct that for the Dec rows “every 2 rows” I decrease on the third row (i.e., R1 - dec 2 sts; R2 - no decreases; R3 - dec 2 sts)? Thanks for any help you can give!
If you write the sequence 1234123412341234 and you have to do an action every 4 rows that means you will always do it on the same number of the 4-number sequence. That is, always on 1 or always on 2 or always on 3, etc. So every 4 rows means 1, 5, 9, 13, etc. Every 2 rows is the same as every other row or every alternate row or every RS (or WS) row, etc. It's very typical to do shaping on the RS of the work only. It does occasionally happen on the WS, especially when you are working shaping every single row, but it's easier to read the knitting on the RS, so a pattern is more likely to instruct to do something every 4 rows for a while and then every 2 rows, so that it can always be done on the RS, rather than having you do it every 3 rows the entire time, which would require some RS shaping and some WS shaping.
If you want it to look like a k2tog on the knit side, work a p2tog on the purl side; if you want it to look like an ssk on the knit side, work an ssp on the purl side.
K2tog is fine if you are doing decreases in only one row, whether it's one decrease or many, but when you want to decrease at opposite points of the row, and you repeat those decreases again over multiple rows, stacking them up, mirroring vs not mirroring will make an obvious difference. It's easy enough to prove to yourself whether or not you care about this difference. Knit a couple of small swatches, working one with only k2tog decs, and the other with mirrored decreases.
Treat each section of the raglan (front, back, sleeves) as a "row", so you decrease at the beginning and end of each section, as shown in this video for an entire row.
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Extremely well explained.
“You can always know which way the decrease is pointing by direction the right needle points”. Lightbulb moment! Thank you! Love your videos because they break it all down so you can understand how and why. You can get so much more out of your knitting when you understand it rather than just do it.
Yes, it's much better when you know not only what to do, but WHY! I'm glad you like my videos. :-)
You have explained this better than anyone I've seen! Now I think I can remember how this goes! Thank you so much!
Oh, I finally get it! One stitch will have to be on top and whatever direction the top stitch leans is the direction of the decrease. Why did it never occur to me that of course if you're decreasing one stitch will have to be on top of the other? I just love you. You just changed my knitting life.
:-)
Thank you. I joined your page years ago & keep returning for updates. Invaluable information.
This is one of the best and most useful tutorials I've seen on knitting decreases. Loved the examples as well. Thank you!
You are so welcome!
Clever you Roxanne. Stylish decreases are the way to go.
Thank you, this is exactly what I needed to fix the problem I have on a little baby cardi where the sewing up looks so untidy. Gotta pull everything back to the armholes and reknit it but otherwise it was heading for the bin. Brilliant simple explanations. Look forward to checking out more of your videos.
Wonderful!
GREAT video, Roxanne! Very educational and purposeful. You explained everything in great detail without over-explaining. I also love that you put the "time jumps" in the description, as this is great information when/if someone is in need of coming back to the video in order to execute, or simply be reminded of a specific technique. Good, good stuff all the way around!
I am now subscribing to your channel. Thank you for your time, and happy knitting! 😊
I'm so glad you like my videos! :-)
Thank you that was so very interesting and will help me to have a lovely finish on the cable sweater I am knitting at the moment. It seems crazy that so much care is put into the knitting patterns with the abbreviations and special abbreviations listed even explaining stocking stitch and 1x1 rib but absolutely nothing about how to work 6 rows dec 1 stitch at each end of every row. Using the techniques that you show in your video will help to make my sweater look amazing instead of just ok. 🌺
So helpful and informative. Thank you! Like the idea of experimenting with the look of decreases. I have tended to think of them as structural rather than adornment. Thanks too for showing the stitches IRL. I too am a big fan of Norah G.
Aha...I could never remember which leaned which way and now I will be able to figure it out by looking which way the needle is pointing ....THANK YOU
There's a similar trick for m1 increases. It's in my Tips and Tricks for Make 1 Increases video. :-)
Such a great and easy video tutorial to follow. Im a new (2 months) knitter that can basically only do the cast on, knit and purl stitches and the bind of. Did a mini swatch of a v-neck top, but the left side locked wonky. Now I understand why. I did try to mirror the right decreses(k2tog) but it looked wierd on the left side and I understand why after looking at this video. But with this video tutorial I can actually make a nice looking summer top now. Thank you so much! :D
You are so welcome!
This was clear to follow and very helpful Roxanne Thank you!
Thank you so much Roxanne I’m learning so much by your video’s Josie
Thanks again, have a bless days and Happy New Year🍇🎉🪅
I'm knitting my first sweater and your videos have been very helpful
Thank you for your informative video. Now I can keep the 2 decreases straight.🌹
You are a life saver. Rhis video totally answers my problem
Hi Roxanne, how do you handle the purl side when a raglan also asks for decreases there, too?
Did you ever find the answer?
I would love to know how to get the pattern for the "summer top" (purple) with the decorative basketweave/cable up the sleeve.
Your videos are the clearest (both in filming and in the verbal instructions), best organized (in the visual presentation and in the logical organization of the material), and most informative -- you even broach subjects others don't think of to teach. It's especially helpful to a medium to advanced knitter like me, because you answer questions I haven't even found anyone to ask. Thank you so much!
The purple top is on my project page here: www.ravelry.com/projects/Rox/ogunquit You can get a link to the pattern from there, and read my project notes.
Very well explained. Very helpful. Thank you! I like your patterns.
You made it very easy to understand Thank you
Hi Rox! Again you rock! Very helpful video, I’m about hooked on them and I’m using the techniques you are giving to improve my work. Again thank you!!! Have a wonderful day!!!
Thanks so much for your videos! I’m a beginner and now with your video I know how to do the decrease knitting from the left side of the garment but when I get to the other side of the garment before turning over to decrease the same on that side like a raglan front (separate pieces), do I do the same sts to get same look. Oh well. I’m going to have to look for other videos. No worries. Was hoping it was on your video because the title is “at each end “…
Roxanne!!!! Thank you so much for this amazing video - I'm happy I found you channel.
Greetings from Mexico!
Thanks so much for your video! I knew you would have just what I needed.
Thank you for your clear explanation.
thank you for this video! this is exactly what I needed :) even though I am working top down, that should help.
Thank you! Extremely clear and very helpful!
Thank for your help in explaining different decreases and leaning, particularly helpful with garments.
Thank you for your video, it was very informative. 😊
Great tutorial. The close ups of were you chose to decrease was very helpful. I don't know if you have done a video on increasing. I am always befuddled as to which increase to use.
Are you asking about how to choose the lean of an increase, or how to choose which type of increase (make 1, lifted, kfb) to use?
which type of increase. does it depend on the lean of the increase?
Most increases have a mirror that leans in the opposite direction (kfb is an exception, as it has no lean at all), so you can mirror them, just as you can mirror decreases. Often, you can use whichever increase you prefer, but some of them do have practical limits for the number of times you can use them in a row, or how frequently you can use them (row after row).
Excellent info & explanations. Thank you.
Thank you for this!! I'm new to knitting, and I wanted to do a wavy blanket, mirrored increases and decreases, but couldn't sort out the decreases until now. So again, thank you for sharing your expertise!
You are so welcome!
Thanks for the excellent video. Do you have a pattern available for the sweater you are wearing? I didn't find it on your Ravelry page.
Here's my Ravelry project page for that sweater www.ravelry.com/projects/Rox/gray-silhouette. People ask about it, every time I wear it in a video, but I still haven't written it up as a pattern. I really should...
Found this to be extremely well explained, thank you
Very helpful. I’m working from an old chart and it has been difficult.
Thanks for a very clear explanation as always!
Can I please have the pattern for the sweater you are wearing in this video? I am ready to pay for the patter. This way all that you explained in this video, will be very clear to me and will be excellent learning. Thank you.
Sorry, there is no pattern for the sweater.
Hi Roxanne! any chance you can do a tutorial on the cockleshells pattern from the book 'The essential stitch collection' I'm fine until 9th row, where I have to knit into the stitch below... and it's a 3 wrap long stitch with the wraps dropped in row 8. I just get so stuck. 😄
Hi Rox, How does one handle the decrease on the purl side? for shaping Raglan
I have a number of videos on decreases, including purl-side decreases. You might want to check the playlist on my channel for increases and decreases. This one in particular might be helpful. ua-cam.com/video/Hdn4PXhHZs0/v-deo.html
Hi Roxanne, Can you tell me how to avoid the hole (maybe an enlarged stitch) I always get next to bound off stitches for beginning of armhole shaping?
Hi Roxanne, I'm a little confused. When describing the decreases at the beginning you say that birth the k2tig and the ssk lean to the right. Yet later when you said if one wanted"instructions" it would be ssk knit ti last three Stuttgart k2tog. So does that mean the ssk means left? I'm blind and rely on your words to explain the procedures and I'm confused. I have a baby blanket I'm creating where I chose to place a yo the stitches from the edge to make a decorative line of "holes" up both sides. I'm working c2c so I know his much yarn I use increasing and can make sure I have enough for the decrease side of the blanket. My QUESTION is when I start decreasing what would be the prettiest way. From the video it sounds like I would k3, yo, k1 ssk k to last 7 st, k2tog, k1, yo k3. Will this give the prettiest result? Before I usually just k2yog art each end and worked a crochet edge around the finished blanket. In trying to expand my creativity, but realized I don't know the best way to decrease abs bit have wonky looking stitches inside the pattern.
Thank you so much did your videos. I learn from all of them and if I listen long enough I can usually figure out where you are talking about when you say something like, "I worked one knit stich then ssk here" or "I worked k2tog at the knit at here".
Would you consider verbally identifying the area you are referring to in the examples? Something like, "I work k1 ssk at the right armhole and k2tog k1 at the left armhole." That would make it easier for me to picture it in my mind. It's just a suggestion, as I said if I listen long enough I can usually future it out.
Thanks again for your input. Heidi
I sometimes misspeak when I record. I might say knit instead of purl or right instead of left. I don't notice it until I'm editing, so I handle the correction by putting text on the screen in big bold letters that correct what it is I have said.
A k2tog leans right, and an ssk leans left. When you work two stitches together, one of them ends up on top of the other. If you work a k2tog, the stitch on the left will end up on top, and the appearance in the fabric will be that it's leaning to the right. When you work an ssk decrease, the stitch on the right ends up on top, so the result appears to lean left. If you work a k2tog in the 2nd and 3rd stitchess from the end of the row every other row multiple times, that 2nd to last stitch will always be on top, and will create a defined line of stitches. If you do a k2tog in the 2nd and 3rd stitch at the start of a row, it will always be the 3rd stitch that ends up on top, and that will change every time. The decreases at that edge will not form a defined line, they will be more subtle. The two edges will not look symmetrical. So for mirroring the decreases the choice is to either have a defined line at both edges by mirroring the decreases with an ssk near the beginning and a k2tog near the end, or you can mirror them by making the decreases more subtle at both edges, by using a k2tog near the start of the row and an ssk near the end. I hope that helps, and I'm sorry for the confusion.
I love learning from you!
Thanks for this great video. My important takeaway was learning that left or right lean relates to the direction of the needles. Duh! I never noticed that before.
It's so helpful to know this! When I'm thinking about which decrease to use I think of the lean I want, and then visualize the needle pointing in that direction, and then I know which one to use. You'd think I would just know by this time, but I need to relate it to a visual/physical memory, not just as a memorized fact.
I'm the same way. I still have to sing the Kitchener song to get it right--but at least I no longer have to refer to a book or video each time to relearn it--finally.
You are the best!
Grazie mille per il bellisimo tutorial !
Your videos are so helpful. Thank you 👍
very well explained, however my pattern asked for decrease a stitch at each end of the next two rows, which means on a purl row too, for the start of the raglan sleeve
On purl rows, do an ssp at the edge where you've done an ssk on the RS and do a p2tog at the edge where you've done RS k2tog.
Thank you so much for replying back , very much appreciated.
Please can you tell me what knitting needles you are using. They look really great.
Those are from Signature Needle Arts.
This was so so helpful but i do have question. What would you do when pattern says bind off two stitches at end of row? So instead of saying decrease as in your example it says bind off. I have several patterns that say that and I'm not sure I'm doing correctly. Thanks so much
What is the exact wording? Sometimes, the pattern means that you are to BO at the start of the next 2 rows, but the wording makes that a bit unclear.
Roxanne Richardson Thanks Rox for getting back to me. Let me give you an example of what I'm talking about. The is talking about shaping armhole it says bind off at each end 2 sts once, then 1 st on every 2nd row a certain number of times. Now to me how can you bind off at each end? Also at neck shaping you bind some many sts at center for neck and finish each side sep. At neck edge bind off on every 2nd row 2 sts once more. Not the best instructions. I love your channel. I learned to knit from a instructor in my town that claimed to tought techniques but she never could remember which dec was right or left leaning and she never broke things down the way you do. She would show a technique like kfb and you would have to do a whole scarf with using only that of course with k or p sts but the whole project was on one skill. I think i wasted a whole lot of money. Lol I only found utube videos because she passed away from cancer (bless her heart) but i must say I've learned so much more from you and others and I'm very greatful that people like you share your craft with the world! You really are the best!
That sounds to me like European pattern formatting, where they use the same word for dec and BO. Again, you *can* BO instead of dec, but it is assumed that you will know that you will BO at the start of a row. So a RS left edge will be BO the start of a WS row, while you will BO on the right edge at the start of a RS row. For each edge, you are BO every other row, just not both of them on the same row. Sometimes the pattern instructions are far more tersely presented, with numbers, so that they are obvious across Europe (less translating of actual words is needed). So in your example, the instructions could, instead, be presented as dec (or BO) each end 2x1, 1x8 (or however many times you do the single dec), and then you are supposed to know whether that is for both edges or just one!
Roxanne Richardson yes i think itd European and that's what i did bo at begging of each row whether rs or ws but now watching your video i can choose dec instead. You are the best, keep up the great work!
Did you develop the pattern for the gorgeous light coloured v neck lace vest with dark grey ribbed edges? Is a pattern available?
I used an existing pattern for the silhouette, which was originally knit in the round with color work with steeked armholes and neck (the pattern is no longer available). I needed to knit a vest for Level II of the Master Hand Knitting program, but it had to have seams, so I modified the pattern to knit it flat, and changed the stitch pattern to the cables and lace. All of that is to say that there is no pattern for it.
@@RoxanneRichardson thanks so much for explaining despite the video being years old.
Your videos are great, very clear and concise. I like that. Thank you. I have a related question, but about the sleeve caps. I am just now knitting my first ever sleeve cap and the pattern says “dec at beginning and end of every other row. I have just decreased (bound off) 14 stitches for the under arm. I thought perhaps that was an error, and so I proceeded to bind off 1 stitch at the beginning only of every row. Now I’m thinking I should be doing ssk and k2tog instead, as you have just demonstrated. It doesn’t look like you are doing that on your sleeve caps though. Please help! Again thanks.
Usually, for sleeve caps and armhole shaping, you will have some initial BO to do, and then you will work the rest of the sleeve cap shaping through single decreases. You *could* BO, but you'll end up with a rather jagged edge to seam in, so working a decrease a stitch or two in from the edge will give a result that provides that nice column of plain stockinette stitches right at the edge. Note that European patterns that are translated do not tend to differentiate between a BO and a dec. They use the same word, and would leave it to you to decide how you want to do that.
Thanks Rox! Good info!
Good information..as always.👍
what kind of knitting needles are you using? Are they Signature Needles?
Yes.
Where do you learn these details? Through your research for the Master Knitter program, from other knitters, or your past mistakes? Or genetically?
Yes. ;-) I had no idea about decrease lean before the MHK program, but I recognized that sometimes, my results looked...not great...on some projects, compared to others. Then, of course, when I found other knitters, I learned from them. And then...once you know a fair bit, you can just figure things out, or experiment to see what happens. You learn the most by asking, "What if...?" and then swatching to find the answer.
very useful thank you
Thanks very much, I love you teach about decrease sleeves, Thanh you.
It's so funny that you would post this video because I just ran into this problem today in a cardigan I'm working on. I was just wondering though, since my pattern uses an Irish moss stitch and I don't really have very many knit stitches right next to eachother, would I still work the decreases like you do here for stockinette or would I have to do something different
If you want to maintain the stitch pattern right up to the edge (leaving the selvedge in stockinette, for easy seaming), you can work decreases that maintain the stitch pattern. Use a decrease that puts the st furthest from the edge on top. So at the RS right edge of the fabric, if the 3rd st is supposed to be a knit, work the 2nd and 3rd st together as a k2tog. If it's supposed to be a purl, then p2tog. At the left edge of the RS, if the 3rd st in should be a knit, then work an ssk, if it's supposed to be a purl, then ssp. I did an article on this years ago in my old Ask a Knitter column, which you can find here: www.ravelry.com/twir/80/ask-a-knitter-22 It covers various scenarios for maintaining stitch pattern, including textured stitch patterns like moss stitch and seed stitch.
Roxanne Richardson Awesome thank you so much! This is my first knitting project that isn't just a rectangle so I really want to do a good job lol
Thanks for the tutorial. Very well explained. Can you tell me what needles you use? What are your favourite ?
I use a variety of needles. In this video, I was probably using Signature Needle Arts videos, but I also like Addi Lace, KnitPicks, and ChiaoGoo needles.
That is, Signature Needle Arts *needles*!
Thanks
Yes. Very informative video. Thank you for your detailed instructions! This is how I’ve been taught.
So the next row is purl. What is every alternate row? Every knit row? Would “every row” mean purl and knit row?
Every row means every row, regardless of how it's worked. If you're knitting in stockinette, then the stitch pattern is a right side (RS) knit row alternating with a wrong side (WS) purl row. If you're working in some other stitch pattern, you'll have RS rows and WS rows that are worked however the pattern dictates. Every alternate row = every other row. So if you have established decreases on a RS row, and you are supposed to continue to do them on alternate rows, that means you will do them every RS row. If you're told to do them on "alternate RS rows", then you are doing them every other RS row, in other words, every 4 rows.
Roxanne Richardson thank you so much for such a fast answer! Now I see what to do!
Very helpful.
Thank you so much. Best instruction ever!
I have a couple of questions about raglan decrease instructions. I am making the Mahakam sweater (knitty.com/ISSUEff20/PATTmahakam/PATTmahakam.php) in a men's 2XL (if that matters), which is knit flat, bottom up, and am at the point where I am to begin the raglan shaping. The instructions state: “working rows as outlined below, starting with a RS Dec row, work a Dec row every 4 rows … [3] times total; work a Dec row every 2 rows … [29] times …”
There is a ssk (or ssp) decrease and a k2tog (or p2tog) decrease on each Dec row, on both right and wrong sides.
My question is what is meant by “every 4 rows”. That is, do I decrease on the fourth row or on the fifth row, as follows: 1st row: decrease 2 sts, 2d row: no decrease, 3d row: no decrease, 4th row: do I decrease on this row, or do I decrease on the next row?
And am I correct that for the Dec rows “every 2 rows” I decrease on the third row (i.e., R1 - dec 2 sts; R2 - no decreases; R3 - dec 2 sts)?
Thanks for any help you can give!
If you write the sequence 1234123412341234 and you have to do an action every 4 rows that means you will always do it on the same number of the 4-number sequence. That is, always on 1 or always on 2 or always on 3, etc. So every 4 rows means 1, 5, 9, 13, etc. Every 2 rows is the same as every other row or every alternate row or every RS (or WS) row, etc. It's very typical to do shaping on the RS of the work only. It does occasionally happen on the WS, especially when you are working shaping every single row, but it's easier to read the knitting on the RS, so a pattern is more likely to instruct to do something every 4 rows for a while and then every 2 rows, so that it can always be done on the RS, rather than having you do it every 3 rows the entire time, which would require some RS shaping and some WS shaping.
How do you work mirrored decreases on a Purl side?
If you want it to look like a k2tog on the knit side, work a p2tog on the purl side; if you want it to look like an ssk on the knit side, work an ssp on the purl side.
Can you achieve the same look with just k2t?
K2tog is fine if you are doing decreases in only one row, whether it's one decrease or many, but when you want to decrease at opposite points of the row, and you repeat those decreases again over multiple rows, stacking them up, mirroring vs not mirroring will make an obvious difference. It's easy enough to prove to yourself whether or not you care about this difference. Knit a couple of small swatches, working one with only k2tog decs, and the other with mirrored decreases.
How to decrease for a raglan sleeve in the round?
Treat each section of the raglan (front, back, sleeves) as a "row", so you decrease at the beginning and end of each section, as shown in this video for an entire row.
love your sweater beautiful
What is a CDD?
Central Double Decrease ua-cam.com/video/Z-r_k3bVwMc/v-deo.html
Love ❤️ you wearing grey
For some reason, you seem VERY familiar and I cannot place you. (from before here I think)
Nancy Rudy I thought that but then I learned that Rox is the former Ask a Knitter from Ravelry. I remembered her from there, I realized.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍💚💚💚💚💚💚💚
Love that sweeter you have on
Way too confusing!! Not showing enough how to actually do just talk! And show work already done!