It is the overfilling of lp tanks and the subsequent liquid flow out the service valve into the lp lines that results in the oil being left behind. The 10PSI reg is a good idea though with that lengthy run of tubing. All regulators should be mounted with the vent facing down or within 45 degrees of down. Moisture could accumulate and then freeze inside the reg holding it open. Also, any article explaining propane hookups should be accompanied by a tutorial on leak detection...
Just wanted to post a quick update.... We woke up this morning to find the outside temperature at 21 degrees. Unfortunately that's F, not C! Our propane furnace is running fine and our hot water is piping hot (running on propane), so our connection to the big external propane tank is working like a charm. :)
Good call on my having neglected to mention checking for leaks. Annotation just added at the 3-minute mark: "Be sure to test all connections for leaks using a soapy water solution (bubbles indicate a propane leak)." Thanks!
This was extremely helpful as I attempted to run a long ACME extension hose from semi- enclosed patio located BBQ to large tank located off patio 15' away.. the extension worked great for over a year then in dead of winter I heard bubbling in regulator and the BTU output dropped significantly. I went back to 20 lb cylinders while I worked out the issue. Thanks for posting
Thanks for the video. The oil is called mercaptan. It's what makes it smell. I used to service industrial manhole heaters rot the phone company in Manitoba. It is a real pain to clean out
We connected upstream of the on-board regulator, so there are indeed two regulators in line. The first one (the red one attached to the large tank) only reduces the pressure enough to avoid oil condensing in the long hose to the RV. Then the on-board regulator brings it down to the correct level required for use on board.
Hey, I'm loving your videos and learning lots of "tricks" and solutions to issue we all encounter in our RV travels............and I thought I was a smarty pants! You daman! Many thanks for your insights. George Bogosian
I've been doing this for years... didn't know that you did this video. I made a video and uploaded it here a few weeks ago. About a month ago I bought a new motorhome and added this extended stay mainly because it's a big hassle to run out of propane when you have a frame mounted tank. You have to take the whole rig somewhere to get it filled (unless you can flag down a propane truck) You can watch my video or read my summary.... The extended stay fitting is $28 on Amazon and it's very easy to install if you just remember "lefty tighty right loosy" But getting from a 20 lb tank onto the extended stay on the frame mounted tank takes some creativity. I bought a hose/regulator kit from Harbor freight for $14. Then I stopped by a propane company and asked if they had an old 20 lb propane tank that I could get a valve out of. They said sure... no problem. The valve from a portable tank fits directly into the extended stay. I had to put a reducer and a small hose fitting on the side of the valve that went into the portable tank. Then I removed the regulator from the Harbor Freight kit and screwed it into my full 20 lb portable tank. Then I simply cut off the end of hose and used a hose clamp to attach it to the valve. Volla.... hot showers and fried chicken! Cost about $45 including the extended stay fitting. I think Amazon sells the entire kit with hose and direct fittings for $60 but it does not include the extended stay fitting.
No. We installed a run of high pressure propane hose from our on-board propane tank across the RV to the curb side for use with our grill. This is teed into our tank BEFORE the regulator that serves the whole RV, so the only regulator for the grill was the one that came on it from Weber (Baby Q). Due to the long run of unregulated high pressure propane, this set-up led to build-up of oil in the line after a while. That's the reason we suggest adding the step-down regulator at the tank.
That would be awesome, can't wait. I've learned so much watching your videos and this has been something I've recently become interested in doing. Thanks so much.
Thank you for the information. We have a class 'A' gasser and our propane tank is on the rear passenger side of the coach which we found is the perfect place for our grill. I am planning on using a small line (< 3 feet) with a quick disconnect that will be permanently mounted on the frame. Then we will use an 8' line to connect to the grill.
We moved the regulator to the right to make room for the extender, then re-attached the plastic cover to new holes we made in the metal mounting plate.
continued.... If you look at our set-up, you can see that adding a regulator at the tank into the line going to the grill would be tricky, since they have to be level, and the line goes straight up over the top. If we get oil in the grill regulator again, I might consider trying to add one, but it's been years since that happened the one time, so I'm not too worried about it. And yes, we did make a quick connect for the grill. I'm making a video about it soon! :)
@bigocea Thanks George, but if we're so smart, why are we in BC in January instead of Quartzsite? ;-) Glad you're enjoying the videos. We have a lot more planned for this spring and summer.
Sorry. My answer was a bit confusing. You can indeed go right from the high pressure tank into the small regulator that comes on your grill. The only reason for considering a second regulator at the tank is if your hose going over to the grill is very long (maybe 15' or more), since high pressure over a long run of hose can cause oil build-up in the line (seems worse in cold weather). We still don't have an extra regulator in the line, and only got a little oil in the grill regulator once.
You will definitely not need an extra regulator. Simply install the extend-a-stay between your RV's propane tank and the RV regulator (like ours), and then hook up to your grill. By the way... the reason you have to install it BEFORE (upstream of) the RV's regulator is so that you can safely use the extend-a-stay for its other purpose: attaching an external propane tank. That way, any external tank goes through the RV's regulator before reaching your appliances. Very important.
I recently had a new "Extenda-stay" installed on my rv but without the extra nipple for a grill. My old one wore out. I just leave the hose connected to the tee with the hose tied up so I do not have to redo the connection each time I use it. The end is capped. I carry a 20 lb tank of propane as a backup if I run out in my onboard tank. When I was still working on the road, it got me a few extra days use until I could get to a refill station. This setup is also useful for boondocking.
I sure will. I'm going to make a video about it, and will show all the parts, with links on where to find them. I'll try to get that up as soon as I can, but it might be a couple of weeks. Stay tuned!
We're new RV owners and your videos have already proved extremely valuable and informative. Thank you. Now to my question, I too want to add an Extend-a-Stay for my propane grill but your answer to SWATCOP confused me. You initially answered his question about requiring another regulator with "No" but later said that we should use a small step-down regulator at the tank in addition to the flame regulator on the grill? Also, is the other end of your hose for the grill a quick-disconnect type?
Thanks you so very much, just exactly what I needed to know and more. I am hooking up the big tank, like yours to a hunting cabin. I have plenty of pressure. I need to know how to find out the right regulator for my need and how to hook; the camping cook stove, an 1800 BTU portable heater, and a portable camping water heater to the big tank.
I see you have a fixed regulator attached to your tank. I have the same issue. How did you fit the extender between the valve and the regulator if neither move?
I am going to set one of these systems up to run just a grill. Do I need to have a regulator end of the line on the grill other than the one that controls the flame level?
Like you guys mentioned in your article, we also had the oil issue. My mechanic claimed that the way you are using is not 'of spec' despite everyone else doing this way. What side is the INPUT side? Right of the regulator or left?
Wondering if that extension hose could have connected directly to the extend-a-stay, rather than the hose it came with. Save yourself those POL fittings
Well, now he has three from tank pressure down to 10 psi teeing into the high-pressure line from his RV tank then going through another 10 psi regulator then to an 11 inch water column regulator. So, say some dummy opens up your RV propane tank valve and puts 70-120 psi ( oh, another thing - propane pressure in the tank depends on ambient temperature not how full or empty your tank is. As long as you have liquid available in the tanks, not frozen up that pressure will be according to an R-290 PT chart) propane pressure on the outlet side of your little red 10 psi regulator. What is that going to do to that little red regulator?
Gosh you too! What a freaking pain! Someone really needs to have a good kit with the several lengths of hose. I look for some also with the metal braid lines with only a 12" hose. Have to find really well stocked RV center to find all the pieces to make this work. Just what are you going to do with a hose only 12" long from this connector. I replaced it with one 36" long. It should have been a no brainier!
Our understanding (from the propane guy) is that there is some residual oil present in propane. Under high pressure over long runs, a small amount of it can be "squeezed" out, causing it to clog the regulators. Because we have a fairly long (unregulated) run from our RV propane tank over to our grill, we once had our grill stop working. When we removed the regulator, there was oil in it. At the time, we were puzzled as to how it got there. This explained it. Hope I got this technically right, but the effect it causes is real, as we've seen it. Thanks Ben!
Wow that I did not know and was nice to learn. Also great UA-cam vids learning about propane stuff is helpful for lots of things even though I don't have or plan on getting a RV.
+RVgeeks Consumer grade propane is HD-5. It contains 90% propane and maximum 5% propylene ( propylene is used in the manufacture of plastics). High pressure can cause the propylene to start hydrocarbon (became "oil"). But it will require high temperature too. As such, I think it is just a preventive measure to lower the PSI, just in case.
Hi Michael. It should be pretty much the same. The connection at the propane bottle on a large RV like ours is the same as what's on a standard size propane bottle like they'd use on a travel trailer. So the "Extend-A-Stay" style connection should fit into the tank just the same.
How much did all of these regulators, gas lines, adapters, etc cost you? It would appear to be much more cost-effective to add an extra/spare propane tank.
hey guys me again, and the second regulator is a bonus for yall now. you can use it anywhere you find an external tank. And I remember years ago being told about the oil in the gas but another source is the hose itself the oil in the gas will leach out oil from the hose and both make a gum that would clog all orifices your regulator and the appliances in your motorhome also known as a huge mess.
We've seen that gummy mess first hand too, as the line we teed into our main propane tank to go over to the grill is high pressure, and gummed up our regulator on the grill. Until we decide whether to bother changing the plumbing at the tank to regulate the entire run to the grill, we've added an inexpensive (about $10 at Lowes) filter at the grill that should stop the problem for the time being.
MrElf31 That would indeed solve the problem with oil at the grill regulator, but there's another issue. The Extend-a-Stay is a 2-function device: allowing us to to tee out to the grill, but also allowing us to connect to external propane. If we install it AFTER the main whole-RV regulator, that would put high-pressure propane directly into the RV instead of through the RV's regulator whenever we connect to a large external tank (the 10psi on the regulator at the big tank is still far too high for the RV). The solution would be to add an additional tee to the grill line immediately after the regulator, but we'd like to avoid having to have a second tee when the extend-a-stay is supposed to do both at once. Our other option would be to add another regulator immediately after the extend-a-stay in the line going over to the grill. Not sure what we'll ultimately do, but for now, we're going with the $10 filter at the grill to protect it from gumming up again. This might be the easiest thing in the long run, just replacing that inexpensive screw-on part once every couple of years.
thanks for your sharing of your experiences with us me and the missus are seriously thinking about getting a motor home and your insight will be invaluable to us. I will definitely be able to use this one.
RVgeeks Couldn't you have added another T after the regulator for the grill and capped off the extend-a-stay where it goes to the grill? That seems cheaper than the filter.
First, our RV didn't come with a grill fast connection. If yours did, you'd have to trace the propane lines back to where they come from on the RV. If it comes AFTER (downstream of) the onboard regulator, then you can't connect the high-pressure external tank or you'll be supplying too much pressure to your onboard appliances. If, however, your existing quick connect is plumbed BEFORE (upstream of) the onboard regulator, it could work.
I have a 24' 5th wheel that has a 30 lb removable propane tank. I want to take it out and install a 100 lb. propane tank permanently as the 5th wheel is placed permanently and will never be on the road. What will I need in the way of accessories to hook up to the onboard regulator? How would I hook up an Extend-a-Stay to this or would I even need one? I already purchased the 100 lb tank.
Does your 30-lb tank have a regulator built on to it? If so, you'll need a similar regulator for the larger tank. If the regulator is built into the RV, changing tanks should be a direct swap-out. Even if the connections aren't identical, they should be able to be adapted. If you're taking the 30-lb tank away completely, you shouldn't need an Extend-a-Stay, which is used to allow you to augment on-board propane with a smaller portable (refillable) tank. A visit to a local propane dealer would be a good idea, so they can see exactly what you need.
Hey Peter, a question, when you go to pull the plug on the extend a stay to add the bigger tank, you do and/or HAVE to shut your on board tank off right?
Hi Morgan! It has been over 13 years since we installed our Extend-a-Stay (once it's in place, it can stay there permanently), so we're going from ancient memory on this. But if we recall correctly, there is no valve that we can recall inside the Extend-a-Stay that stops the flow. So if we are remembering correctly, you would indeed have to shut off the main propane valve on the RV's tank. There might be instructions to that effect included in the package, but we'd just go ahead and shut it off to be sure.
Hi Morgan - Yes you do have to shut off the valve to pull either cap and when connecting or disconnecting anything. There is nothing in the T to stop the flow of propane. I use mine all the time. Another note - spray the entire casting with soapy water every one in a while and check for leaks. I developed pinhole leaks on the back side of the casting after about 6 months of use on the first one that I could only feel, not see with the soapy water. The second one has been solid for two years now. I just hook up a 500 pound tank (like in the video) for this winter with the T and the stock 10 foot hose and no additional regulator so we will see how this works.
Not sure which part you’re referring to. If you mean the Extend-a-Stay itself, there are several size connections... you can see more in the details on the Amazon listing for it here: amzn.to/2DXUvuv
I'm still a little confused. initially you had low pressure because you were running thru two regulators, the gray one on the external tank and the one on the MH. so what did swapping out the gray one for the red one get you? you still has two regulators. The red had 10 psi instead of 13WC???
Sorry if we weren't clear on this one Mike. The problem was indeed that we were going through two 95.-13" WC regulators, which is MUCH less pressure than 10PSI. It's only about 0.4 PSI, so having two of them in line, especially over such a long run, did not allow enough pressure to feed our RV's appliances.
Hi our suburban mobile trailer has 2 propane tanks on outside front of rv. We bought a 100lb tank do we disconnect one of the other tanks plug and connect it to that? Or do we s till need a extend a stay? Is there a way to directly connect tank?
We found our local propane dealer to be extremely helpful in providing both expertise and any hoses, adapters or connections that might be needed. We'd suggest that you take a few photos of your RV's propane tank and connections and of the new tank and its connections. Then show them to a local propane dealer to get their expert input.
why didn't you t, with the external source that was already regulated, in after the existing regulator on the rv? also, any device you connect, like an external grill, will need to be regulated when connecting into the featured t, as it is before the regulator.
Hi Julie... couple of reasons. First off, the “T” manufacturer recommends installing it before the onboard regulator, to ensure that any source you connect to the RV couldn’t supply too much pressure to the onboard appliances (installing the T after/downstream from the onboard regulator could allow you to supply full tank pressure to your stove/furnace/water heater/refrigerator... which could damage them). Secondly, the external regulator was at too high a pressure to supply propane after the onboard regulator (as mentioned above). Third, if we had replaced the regulator on the external tank with one that supplied the same pressure as the onboard regulator (11-inch water column), the long run from the tank could have resulted in insufficient pressure when the ambient temps dropped down below freezing... you need the higher pressure so that drop is less significant). Hope this helps.
@@RVgeeks Hopefully you'll see this, I know it's been a minute. I have pretty much the same question, with the caveats of my situation. I'm full timing now due to a house fire. So I'm pretty new to RV's. I have 2, 250 gallon tanks that I want to plumb into not only so I don't have to keep taking my 5 pounders out (I have the dual portable tank setup), but also because buying bulk propane drops my cost by about .75 a gallon. I live in Southern Cal, so rarely get to freezing, winter is 40's-50's. I have a shorter run, about 15 feet. I have the house regulators that came with the tanks and of course the regulator on the coach. Per you video, it seems like using both of those won't give me enough pressure. Due to where I live, not too worried about the oil issue (I plan on using hose as well). No plans on selling this once I've rebuilt, so no worries with someone else getting a weirdly plumbed set up. So....if both reg's put out what the coach uses it seems like the only way your answer number 1 here could happen is if the tank regulator had a catastrophic failure. Which it would seem to me to be no more likely than the coach reg having one. Seems like using the tank one and bypassing the coach one would have the same results, failure notwithstanding of course. Is that not correct? Or is the concern simply someone accidentally unhooking from the house tank with regulator and hooking straight into an unregulated tank? I'm looking at a long term hook up that will not be unhooked, so no chance of that for me. In your answer #2 here, are you meaning when both original regs were attached? #3, I've got less than half your run and almost no chance of going below freezing. Dunno if you would have asked considering your situation, but if you did....would/might my situation not have this issue? Thanks for the video, it's going to help me get this set up, as I'll be living this way for some time due to long permitting times here. Thanks in advance for any info you can provide.
Hi Stuntworks. So sorry to hear about your house! Yikes! Hope the permitting doesn't take TOO long and you can get back into your home soon! First thing... check the OUTPUT pressure on the regulators you have for the big tanks. If you want to Tee into the RV's propane system after/downstream of the existing onboard regulator, you need to be sure that they match the output pressure of your RVs onboard regulator (which is probably 11" Water Column... about 0.5psi... it's very low). If they're not, you're going to need to either change them... or plumb the Tee in before/upstream of the onboard regulator. Which, then MAY pose a problem if the output from the big tanks' regulator(s) isn't enough INPUT pressure for the onboard regulator. If so, then the onboard regulator won't "open" and you won't get any flow of propane beyond it. But if the big tanks' regulators ARE 11" water column output... you can certainly tee in downstream. With the pressure that low, and your run being shorter, AND your ambient temperatures being higher, you shouldn't have a problem with the oil. If you're concerned about it, you can buy and install an inline filter (like this one: amzn.to/2WA5Yvr although you may need to find one with different fittings, depending on your hose). Just put the filter as close to the RV as possible, so it prevents any potential build up from getting into the RVs propane lines. Hope this helps.
@@RVgeeks Thanks for the reply, that was what I thought. My large regs are 9-13 WC, so that may not work out. But the idea does so I'm off to my local RV mom and pop. They have additional regs and such, so I'll make it work. Thanks for the vid.
So, I'm pretty sure there's no oil in propane. But, at the high pressure, is likely to be liquid propane rather than gas.
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Thank you for this! My built-in 100lbs tank is terminally leaking, so I drained it last winter and I'm about to have a dedicated 420lbs tank next to my R-V. I'm hesitant between your setup (yet another connector in line, 10 PSI regulator on tank) or just bypassing my own 14-year-old regulator entirely and relying on the big tank's. Leaning towards the latter (less parts, brand new regulator). Can you think of any cons to going direct?
You CAN do that, but BE SURE that the regulator on the big tank is 11" WATER COLUMN! That's much less than 10PSI and is what's required to go into your RV's systems.
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Thank you, and yes of course I would triple-check what they're installing. :)
I would not leave the grill extension hose permanently attached! That hose will always be at high tank pressure, a little age and a small crack and you'll have a big problem.
he has this beautiful RV, probably cost north of $100K. Too cheap to pay a professional a couple hundred bucks to make sure his family and RV is safe. thanks to you and other videos, i have learned that i will leave propane up to professionals, easier and maybe cheaper in the long run.
Our RV cost did indeed cost FAR more than $100K, but it is our only home, and we have a large mortgage on it, just like many other homeowners. Don't assume that everyone you see with something nicer than you have is rich, and don't be spending other people's money for them. There was nothing the least bit dangerous about connecting our rig to propane, so I'll make you a deal: Don't assume I'm rich, and I won't assume you're lazy for not doing such an easy job yourself.
lol. real easy, six trips to the store. i never assumed you were rich. i don't assume people think i am lazy. just sayin there are times when hiring a pro is worth it. furthermore, i don't think it is a good idea to encourage others to dabble in gas lines in an enclosed area.
That was a site we were renting, and unfortunately, those giant tanks are too big to move and need to be placed near the back of the site to avoid being in the way of the RV.
That would indeed be a problem. Luckily, we haven't seen any dog, squirrel, mouse (or any other rodent) show the least bit of interest in the hose. The fact that the local propane company who supplies the tanks and often sets up the RVs and park models in this park ALSO uses rubber hoses for the connection leads us to believe that it isn't a problem. For a more permanent installation (remember, this was just for temporary winter use), we'd want something more robust installed.
You totally lost me. basically at the end of the video you're still dual regulated. You went from 9.5 / 13 to a straight 10 wc. You swapped out one regulator for another that makes no sense.
The problem with “double regulation” is when people inadvertently go through TWO 11” WC regulators. Each of those are so low (about 0.5 PSI) that there isn’t enough pressure to run anything when you go through more than one. But the regulator we added at the tank is 15 PSI. That 30x higher pressure is PLENTY to feed over to the RV and the 11” WC regulator there. The 15 PSI is simply a step-down from the 100+ PSI coming out of the tank, which is such high pressure, that it will cause oil buildup over long hose runs. Double regulation is okay… IF you use the right regulators.
You saved a lot of ppl a lot of problems, thsnk you for thorough education
Wonderful job explaining the pitfalls and correct setup of using an external propane source. You just saved me alot of headache. Thank You.
It is the overfilling of lp tanks and the subsequent liquid flow out the service valve into the lp lines that results in the oil being left behind. The 10PSI reg is a good idea though with that lengthy run of tubing. All regulators should be mounted with the vent facing down or within 45 degrees of down. Moisture could accumulate and then freeze inside the reg holding it open. Also, any article explaining propane hookups should be accompanied by a tutorial on leak detection...
Just wanted to post a quick update.... We woke up this morning to find the outside temperature at 21 degrees. Unfortunately that's F, not C! Our propane furnace is running fine and our hot water is piping hot (running on propane), so our connection to the big external propane tank is working like a charm. :)
Thank you for the video. Blessings to you.
Excellent tip and explanation!
While the external connection is of no interest to me, the extend-a-stay information is a god-send. Thank you so much.
+Scintor Excellent!
Good call on my having neglected to mention checking for leaks. Annotation just added at the 3-minute mark: "Be sure to test all connections for leaks using a soapy water solution (bubbles indicate a propane leak)." Thanks!
This was extremely helpful as I attempted to run a long ACME extension hose from semi- enclosed patio located BBQ to large tank located off patio 15' away.. the extension worked great for over a year then in dead of winter I heard bubbling in regulator and the BTU output dropped significantly. I went back to 20 lb cylinders while I worked out the issue. Thanks for posting
Thanks for letting us know, Bob. Always nice to hear we’ve been helpful.
Thanks for the video. The oil is called mercaptan. It's what makes it smell. I used to service industrial manhole heaters rot the phone company in Manitoba. It is a real pain to clean out
We connected upstream of the on-board regulator, so there are indeed two regulators in line. The first one (the red one attached to the large tank) only reduces the pressure enough to avoid oil condensing in the long hose to the RV. Then the on-board regulator brings it down to the correct level required for use on board.
Hey, I'm loving your videos and learning lots of "tricks" and solutions to issue we all encounter in our RV travels............and I thought I was a smarty pants! You daman! Many thanks for your insights.
George Bogosian
I've been doing this for years... didn't know that you did this video. I made a video and uploaded it here a few weeks ago.
About a month ago I bought a new motorhome and added this extended stay mainly because it's a big hassle to run out of propane when you have a frame mounted tank. You have to take the whole rig somewhere to get it filled (unless you can flag down a propane truck)
You can watch my video or read my summary....
The extended stay fitting is $28 on Amazon and it's very easy to install if you just remember "lefty tighty right loosy"
But getting from a 20 lb tank onto the extended stay on the frame mounted tank takes some creativity.
I bought a hose/regulator kit from Harbor freight for $14. Then I stopped by a propane company and asked if they had an old 20 lb propane tank that I could get a valve out of. They said sure... no problem.
The valve from a portable tank fits directly into the extended stay.
I had to put a reducer and a small hose fitting on the side of the valve that went into the portable tank.
Then I removed the regulator from the Harbor Freight kit and screwed it into my full 20 lb portable tank.
Then I simply cut off the end of hose and used a hose clamp to attach it to the valve.
Volla.... hot showers and fried chicken!
Cost about $45 including the extended stay fitting.
I think Amazon sells the entire kit with hose and direct fittings for $60 but it does not include the extended stay fitting.
No. We installed a run of high pressure propane hose from our on-board propane tank across the RV to the curb side for use with our grill. This is teed into our tank BEFORE the regulator that serves the whole RV, so the only regulator for the grill was the one that came on it from Weber (Baby Q). Due to the long run of unregulated high pressure propane, this set-up led to build-up of oil in the line after a while. That's the reason we suggest adding the step-down regulator at the tank.
That would be awesome, can't wait. I've learned so much watching your videos and this has been something I've recently become interested in doing. Thanks so much.
Thank you for the information. We have a class 'A' gasser and our propane tank is on the rear passenger side of the coach which we found is the perfect place for our grill. I am planning on using a small line (< 3 feet) with a quick disconnect that will be permanently mounted on the frame. Then we will use an 8' line to connect to the grill.
We moved the regulator to the right to make room for the extender, then re-attached the plastic cover to new holes we made in the metal mounting plate.
continued.... If you look at our set-up, you can see that adding a regulator at the tank into the line going to the grill would be tricky, since they have to be level, and the line goes straight up over the top. If we get oil in the grill regulator again, I might consider trying to add one, but it's been years since that happened the one time, so I'm not too worried about it. And yes, we did make a quick connect for the grill. I'm making a video about it soon! :)
Another great video. these are extremely helpful and well-done. Am a new RV'er and am grateful for the guidance. thank you!
@biggdogg285 Thanks Adam! So glad we got this all worked out before the deep freeze came.
@bigocea Thanks George, but if we're so smart, why are we in BC in January instead of Quartzsite? ;-) Glad you're enjoying the videos. We have a lot more planned for this spring and summer.
I've wondered about the double regulator issue. Thanks for the advice
Sorry. My answer was a bit confusing. You can indeed go right from the high pressure tank into the small regulator that comes on your grill. The only reason for considering a second regulator at the tank is if your hose going over to the grill is very long (maybe 15' or more), since high pressure over a long run of hose can cause oil build-up in the line (seems worse in cold weather). We still don't have an extra regulator in the line, and only got a little oil in the grill regulator once.
You will definitely not need an extra regulator. Simply install the extend-a-stay between your RV's propane tank and the RV regulator (like ours), and then hook up to your grill. By the way... the reason you have to install it BEFORE (upstream of) the RV's regulator is so that you can safely use the extend-a-stay for its other purpose: attaching an external propane tank. That way, any external tank goes through the RV's regulator before reaching your appliances. Very important.
now that was informative, for ill be in maine for the winter
It was Northern Tool item #172711 - the "Mr. Heater Extension Hose For Propane Heater - 15ft. Length, Model# F271470" for $29.99.
I recently had a new "Extenda-stay" installed on my rv but without the extra nipple for a grill. My old one wore out.
I just leave the hose connected to the tee with the hose tied up so I do not have to redo the connection each time I use it. The end is capped.
I carry a 20 lb tank of propane as a backup if I run out in my onboard tank. When I was still working on the road, it got me a few extra days use until I could get to a refill station.
This setup is also useful for boondocking.
Thanks for filling us in on your set-up, Doris! Sounds like you'd got it down pat. :)
I sure will. I'm going to make a video about it, and will show all the parts, with links on where to find them. I'll try to get that up as soon as I can, but it might be a couple of weeks. Stay tuned!
We're new RV owners and your videos have already proved extremely valuable and informative. Thank you. Now to my question, I too want to add an Extend-a-Stay for my propane grill but your answer to SWATCOP confused me. You initially answered his question about requiring another regulator with "No" but later said that we should use a small step-down regulator at the tank in addition to the flame regulator on the grill?
Also, is the other end of your hose for the grill a quick-disconnect type?
Thanks I just bought that attachment and three foot hose I’ll see how it goes
Could've called Hank Hill.
Great info , Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks you so very much, just exactly what I needed to know and more.
I am hooking up the big tank, like yours to a hunting cabin. I have plenty of pressure.
I need to know how to find out the right regulator for my need and how to hook; the camping cook stove, an 1800 BTU portable heater, and a portable camping water heater to the big tank.
So did it work as planned ? good video,thankyou.
Where did you get your wheel covers? They look awesome
Those aren't made any more, but we like our new ones MUCH better! ua-cam.com/video/M3QgN83XjSM/v-deo.html
Thank you.
Would you post the adapters and connectors that you used to build the quick disconnects for your grill?
I see you have a fixed regulator attached to your tank. I have the same issue. How did you fit the extender between the valve and the regulator if neither move?
I am going to set one of these systems up to run just a grill. Do I need to have a regulator end of the line on the grill other than the one that controls the flame level?
Like you guys mentioned in your article, we also had the oil issue. My mechanic claimed that the way you are using is not 'of spec' despite everyone else doing this way. What side is the INPUT side? Right of the regulator or left?
On our RV’s built-in tank, the left side of the main regulator is the input side.
@@RVgeeks Gotcha. I learned a lot from etrailer about how this system works. My mechanic is a joke.
for me the biggest take-away is to get a professional to figure out what needs to be done - thanks - great video
I looked for an lp hose in northern tool...what hose did you use??
Do y’all have a video where we can fill our onboard propane tank using an external propane tank? Please let me know and happy camping fellas:-).
Sorry, but as far as we know, that’s not possible to do, as it can only be pumped in directly from a propane dispenser or truck.
It sure did! Thanks!
Wondering if that extension hose could have connected directly to the extend-a-stay, rather than the hose it came with. Save yourself those POL fittings
Did you have to connect downstream of the onboard regulator ? if not it looks like you still have two regulators in the line??
WW
Well, now he has three from tank pressure down to 10 psi teeing into the high-pressure line from his RV tank then going through another 10 psi regulator then to an 11 inch water column regulator.
So, say some dummy opens up your RV propane tank valve and puts 70-120 psi ( oh, another thing - propane pressure in the tank depends on ambient temperature not how full or empty your tank is. As long as you have liquid available in the tanks, not frozen up that pressure will be according to an R-290 PT chart) propane pressure on the outlet side of your little red 10 psi regulator. What is that going to do to that little red regulator?
Gosh you too! What a freaking pain! Someone really needs to have a good kit with the several lengths of hose. I look for some also with the metal braid lines with only a 12" hose. Have to find really well stocked RV center to find all the pieces to make this work. Just what are you going to do with a hose only 12" long from this connector. I replaced it with one 36" long. It should have been a no brainier!
We found hoses on Amazon.
Why and what would cause oil to form in the hose? wheres the oil come from? Thanks Ben
Our understanding (from the propane guy) is that there is some residual oil present in propane. Under high pressure over long runs, a small amount of it can be "squeezed" out, causing it to clog the regulators. Because we have a fairly long (unregulated) run from our RV propane tank over to our grill, we once had our grill stop working. When we removed the regulator, there was oil in it. At the time, we were puzzled as to how it got there. This explained it. Hope I got this technically right, but the effect it causes is real, as we've seen it. Thanks Ben!
Wow that I did not know and was nice to learn. Also great UA-cam vids learning about propane stuff is helpful for lots of things even though I don't have or plan on getting a RV.
+RVgeeks
Consumer grade propane is HD-5. It contains 90% propane and maximum 5% propylene ( propylene is used in the manufacture of plastics). High pressure can cause the propylene to start hydrocarbon (became "oil"). But it will require high temperature too. As such, I think it is just a preventive measure to lower the PSI, just in case.
Any ideas on where to look to do the same thing but to a camper/5th wheel?
Hi Michael. It should be pretty much the same. The connection at the propane bottle on a large RV like ours is the same as what's on a standard size propane bottle like they'd use on a travel trailer. So the "Extend-A-Stay" style connection should fit into the tank just the same.
How much did all of these regulators, gas lines, adapters, etc cost you?
It would appear to be much more cost-effective to add an extra/spare propane tank.
hey guys me again, and the second regulator is a bonus for yall now. you can use it anywhere you find an external tank. And I remember years ago being told about the oil in the gas but another source is the hose itself the oil in the gas will leach out oil from the hose and both make a gum that would clog all orifices your regulator and the appliances in your motorhome also known as a huge mess.
We've seen that gummy mess first hand too, as the line we teed into our main propane tank to go over to the grill is high pressure, and gummed up our regulator on the grill. Until we decide whether to bother changing the plumbing at the tank to regulate the entire run to the grill, we've added an inexpensive (about $10 at Lowes) filter at the grill that should stop the problem for the time being.
RVgeeks wouldn't it fix the mess by hooking the cross over line after your existing regulator?
MrElf31 That would indeed solve the problem with oil at the grill regulator, but there's another issue. The Extend-a-Stay is a 2-function device: allowing us to to tee out to the grill, but also allowing us to connect to external propane. If we install it AFTER the main whole-RV regulator, that would put high-pressure propane directly into the RV instead of through the RV's regulator whenever we connect to a large external tank (the 10psi on the regulator at the big tank is still far too high for the RV). The solution would be to add an additional tee to the grill line immediately after the regulator, but we'd like to avoid having to have a second tee when the extend-a-stay is supposed to do both at once. Our other option would be to add another regulator immediately after the extend-a-stay in the line going over to the grill. Not sure what we'll ultimately do, but for now, we're going with the $10 filter at the grill to protect it from gumming up again. This might be the easiest thing in the long run, just replacing that inexpensive screw-on part once every couple of years.
thanks for your sharing of your experiences with us me and the missus are seriously thinking about getting a motor home and your insight will be invaluable to us. I will definitely be able to use this one.
RVgeeks
Couldn't you have added another T after the regulator for the grill and capped off the extend-a-stay where it goes to the grill? That seems cheaper than the filter.
Why can you not hook up to the grill fast connection whit you big propane tank ???
First, our RV didn't come with a grill fast connection. If yours did, you'd have to trace the propane lines back to where they come from on the RV. If it comes AFTER (downstream of) the onboard regulator, then you can't connect the high-pressure external tank or you'll be supplying too much pressure to your onboard appliances. If, however, your existing quick connect is plumbed BEFORE (upstream of) the onboard regulator, it could work.
I have a 24' 5th wheel that has a 30 lb removable propane tank. I want to take it out and install a 100 lb. propane tank permanently as the 5th wheel is placed permanently and will never be on the road. What will I need in the way of accessories to hook up to the onboard regulator? How would I hook up an Extend-a-Stay to this or would I even need one?
I already purchased the 100 lb tank.
Does your 30-lb tank have a regulator built on to it? If so, you'll need a similar regulator for the larger tank. If the regulator is built into the RV, changing tanks should be a direct swap-out. Even if the connections aren't identical, they should be able to be adapted. If you're taking the 30-lb tank away completely, you shouldn't need an Extend-a-Stay, which is used to allow you to augment on-board propane with a smaller portable (refillable) tank. A visit to a local propane dealer would be a good idea, so they can see exactly what you need.
Hey Peter, a question, when you go to pull the plug on the extend a stay to add the bigger tank, you do and/or HAVE to shut your on board tank off right?
Hi Morgan! It has been over 13 years since we installed our Extend-a-Stay (once it's in place, it can stay there permanently), so we're going from ancient memory on this. But if we recall correctly, there is no valve that we can recall inside the Extend-a-Stay that stops the flow. So if we are remembering correctly, you would indeed have to shut off the main propane valve on the RV's tank. There might be instructions to that effect included in the package, but we'd just go ahead and shut it off to be sure.
Hi Morgan - Yes you do have to shut off the valve to pull either cap and when connecting or disconnecting anything. There is nothing in the T to stop the flow of propane. I use mine all the time. Another note - spray the entire casting with soapy water every one in a while and check for leaks. I developed pinhole leaks on the back side of the casting after about 6 months of use on the first one that I could only feel, not see with the soapy water. The second one has been solid for two years now. I just hook up a 500 pound tank (like in the video) for this winter with the T and the stock 10 foot hose and no additional regulator so we will see how this works.
Thanks for confirming our recollection, Bill!
I hope that hose is a braided steel hose. That long of a rubber hose is illegal where I do propane.
Is this control you installed 1/4 x 1/2 ?
Not sure which part you’re referring to. If you mean the Extend-a-Stay itself, there are several size connections... you can see more in the details on the Amazon listing for it here: amzn.to/2DXUvuv
I'm still a little confused. initially you had low pressure because you were running thru two regulators, the gray one on the external tank and the one on the MH. so what did swapping out the gray one for the red one get you? you still has two regulators. The red had 10 psi instead of 13WC???
Sorry if we weren't clear on this one Mike. The problem was indeed that we were going through two 95.-13" WC regulators, which is MUCH less pressure than 10PSI. It's only about 0.4 PSI, so having two of them in line, especially over such a long run, did not allow enough pressure to feed our RV's appliances.
Hi our suburban mobile trailer has 2 propane tanks on outside front of rv. We bought a 100lb tank do we disconnect one of the other tanks plug and connect it to that? Or do we s till need a extend a stay? Is there a way to directly connect tank?
We found our local propane dealer to be extremely helpful in providing both expertise and any hoses, adapters or connections that might be needed. We'd suggest that you take a few photos of your RV's propane tank and connections and of the new tank and its connections. Then show them to a local propane dealer to get their expert input.
Keep in mind that this is only an issue in rubber hoses, oil will not build up in copper lines.
Awesome
why didn't you t, with the external source that was already regulated, in after the existing regulator on the rv? also, any device you connect, like an external grill, will need to be regulated when connecting into the featured t, as it is before the regulator.
Hi Julie... couple of reasons. First off, the “T” manufacturer recommends installing it before the onboard regulator, to ensure that any source you connect to the RV couldn’t supply too much pressure to the onboard appliances (installing the T after/downstream from the onboard regulator could allow you to supply full tank pressure to your stove/furnace/water heater/refrigerator... which could damage them). Secondly, the external regulator was at too high a pressure to supply propane after the onboard regulator (as mentioned above). Third, if we had replaced the regulator on the external tank with one that supplied the same pressure as the onboard regulator (11-inch water column), the long run from the tank could have resulted in insufficient pressure when the ambient temps dropped down below freezing... you need the higher pressure so that drop is less significant). Hope this helps.
@@RVgeeks Hopefully you'll see this, I know it's been a minute.
I have pretty much the same question, with the caveats of my situation. I'm full timing now due to a house fire. So I'm pretty new to RV's. I have 2, 250 gallon tanks that I want to plumb into not only so I don't have to keep taking my 5 pounders out (I have the dual portable tank setup), but also because buying bulk propane drops my cost by about .75 a gallon.
I live in Southern Cal, so rarely get to freezing, winter is 40's-50's. I have a shorter run, about 15 feet. I have the house regulators that came with the tanks and of course the regulator on the coach. Per you video, it seems like using both of those won't give me enough pressure. Due to where I live, not too worried about the oil issue (I plan on using hose as well). No plans on selling this once I've rebuilt, so no worries with someone else getting a weirdly plumbed set up.
So....if both reg's put out what the coach uses it seems like the only way your answer number 1 here could happen is if the tank regulator had a catastrophic failure. Which it would seem to me to be no more likely than the coach reg having one. Seems like using the tank one and bypassing the coach one would have the same results, failure notwithstanding of course. Is that not correct? Or is the concern simply someone accidentally unhooking from the house tank with regulator and hooking straight into an unregulated tank? I'm looking at a long term hook up that will not be unhooked, so no chance of that for me.
In your answer #2 here, are you meaning when both original regs were attached? #3, I've got less than half your run and almost no chance of going below freezing. Dunno if you would have asked considering your situation, but if you did....would/might my situation not have this issue?
Thanks for the video, it's going to help me get this set up, as I'll be living this way for some time due to long permitting times here. Thanks in advance for any info you can provide.
Hi Stuntworks. So sorry to hear about your house! Yikes! Hope the permitting doesn't take TOO long and you can get back into your home soon!
First thing... check the OUTPUT pressure on the regulators you have for the big tanks. If you want to Tee into the RV's propane system after/downstream of the existing onboard regulator, you need to be sure that they match the output pressure of your RVs onboard regulator (which is probably 11" Water Column... about 0.5psi... it's very low). If they're not, you're going to need to either change them... or plumb the Tee in before/upstream of the onboard regulator. Which, then MAY pose a problem if the output from the big tanks' regulator(s) isn't enough INPUT pressure for the onboard regulator. If so, then the onboard regulator won't "open" and you won't get any flow of propane beyond it.
But if the big tanks' regulators ARE 11" water column output... you can certainly tee in downstream. With the pressure that low, and your run being shorter, AND your ambient temperatures being higher, you shouldn't have a problem with the oil. If you're concerned about it, you can buy and install an inline filter (like this one: amzn.to/2WA5Yvr although you may need to find one with different fittings, depending on your hose). Just put the filter as close to the RV as possible, so it prevents any potential build up from getting into the RVs propane lines.
Hope this helps.
@@RVgeeks Thanks for the reply, that was what I thought. My large regs are 9-13 WC, so that may not work out. But the idea does so I'm off to my local RV mom and pop. They have additional regs and such, so I'll make it work.
Thanks for the vid.
So, I'm pretty sure there's no oil in propane. But, at the high pressure, is likely to be liquid propane rather than gas.
Thank you for this! My built-in 100lbs tank is terminally leaking, so I drained it last winter and I'm about to have a dedicated 420lbs tank next to my R-V. I'm hesitant between your setup (yet another connector in line, 10 PSI regulator on tank) or just bypassing my own 14-year-old regulator entirely and relying on the big tank's. Leaning towards the latter (less parts, brand new regulator). Can you think of any cons to going direct?
You CAN do that, but BE SURE that the regulator on the big tank is 11" WATER COLUMN! That's much less than 10PSI and is what's required to go into your RV's systems.
Thank you, and yes of course I would triple-check what they're installing. :)
I would not leave the grill extension hose permanently attached! That hose will always be at high tank pressure, a little age and a small crack and you'll have a big problem.
he has this beautiful RV, probably cost north of $100K. Too cheap to pay a professional a couple hundred bucks to make sure his family and RV is safe. thanks to you and other videos, i have learned that i will leave propane up to professionals, easier and maybe cheaper in the long run.
Our RV cost did indeed cost FAR more than $100K, but it is our only home, and we have a large mortgage on it, just like many other homeowners. Don't assume that everyone you see with something nicer than you have is rich, and don't be spending other people's money for them. There was nothing the least bit dangerous about connecting our rig to propane, so I'll make you a deal: Don't assume I'm rich, and I won't assume you're lazy for not doing such an easy job yourself.
lol. real easy, six trips to the store. i never assumed you were rich. i don't assume people think i am lazy. just sayin there are times when hiring a pro is worth it. furthermore, i don't think it is a good idea to encourage others to dabble in gas lines in an enclosed area.
lol, good job!
I don't need 10 psi. My girl will keep me toasty:)
Over the last 12 years, hopefully you just moved the big tank closer to the the extend-a-stay.
That was a site we were renting, and unfortunately, those giant tanks are too big to move and need to be placed near the back of the site to avoid being in the way of the RV.
What if your neighbors poodle gave over and chewed that black propane line laying on the ground.
That would indeed be a problem. Luckily, we haven't seen any dog, squirrel, mouse (or any other rodent) show the least bit of interest in the hose. The fact that the local propane company who supplies the tanks and often sets up the RVs and park models in this park ALSO uses rubber hoses for the connection leads us to believe that it isn't a problem. For a more permanent installation (remember, this was just for temporary winter use), we'd want something more robust installed.
Ff
Just move the tank closer. Problem solved.
Tank is fixed in place and can’t be moved.
You totally lost me. basically at the end of the video you're still dual regulated. You went from 9.5 / 13 to a straight 10 wc. You swapped out one regulator for another that makes no sense.
The problem with “double regulation” is when people inadvertently go through TWO 11” WC regulators. Each of those are so low (about 0.5 PSI) that there isn’t enough pressure to run anything when you go through more than one. But the regulator we added at the tank is 15 PSI. That 30x higher pressure is PLENTY to feed over to the RV and the 11” WC regulator there. The 15 PSI is simply a step-down from the 100+ PSI coming out of the tank, which is such high pressure, that it will cause oil buildup over long hose runs. Double regulation is okay… IF you use the right regulators.
Great info, thank you