One reason they may not be into heavily finishing the handle. An old school wooden handle knife is meant to be filed/sanded to fit your hand and then you add the final finish. Over-finishing it ahead of time just gets in the way. Much like an axe or hatchet. I personally just want the raw wood with no finish. I can tune it up, fine sand it, add any markings, maybe burn it a little and then apply my favorite oil finish.
It would be a very simple matter to put improved scales onto this knife, tailored to the user's hand. According to my investigations, the downwards lanyard hole siting on your BPS example is less than ideal. The Beavercraft would work better for me in this regard, but I would wish to put my own scales on, to improve comfort, and perhaps restrict the lanyard hole to an upper positioning. Kind of talking myself into another project here ;D
Not going to lie, this knife isn't my favorite. It's okay. It's not the worst knife for sure. My biggest complaint is it needs some type of guard or something to keep your fingers off the blade during hard use. There isn't much there to prevent your hand from sliding down on that blade. Basically I've got better fixed blades from ESEE, TOPS, Kershaw, Cold Steel, Gerber, Becker/Kabar, Ontario, Morakniv, Buck, Benchmade, Schrade, Nedfoss, that SDOKEDC DC53 blade that's sold on Amazon is the straight up bomb for $25. Yes the last 2 I mentioned are Chinablades, but they're pretty good for the $. And this is just talking fixed blades. Some of my Chinablades that are folders are pretty freaking good. The RAT1 is still my EDC though.
Decent review but would also like to see it in use natoning, feathering, cutting notches, stabbing logs for point strength, using the pommel for smashing, some chopping etc. that is what we want to see. Get out in the bush and use it because it is a bushcraft knife!!!!
minute 08:40 that could be the idea of a bottle opener and nut cracker type design element. but I`m same as you, it looks not that much helpful and even disturbing with larger hands. This detail at the end of any knife, is for me reason enough to stay away from buying.
Lol, it's a pummel for smashing sh*t like small fresh branches to brush your teeth (I'm serious) or for smashing glass or for smashing small rocks or breaking open a can or banging in tent pegs or anything else you need to hammer or smash. It is actually a feature I want on any bushcraft or survival knife with over a 4" blade, I wouldn't buy a knife that size without it. By the way, the guy's hands have tons of room in that handle and it doesn't interfere with him using the knife, if he doesn't know what it is for then WTF is he doing a review on a large bushcraft, camping knife????
One reason they may not be into heavily finishing the handle. An old school wooden handle knife is meant to be filed/sanded to fit your hand and then you add the final finish. Over-finishing it ahead of time just gets in the way. Much like an axe or hatchet.
I personally just want the raw wood with no finish. I can tune it up, fine sand it, add any markings, maybe burn it a little and then apply my favorite oil finish.
That’s a great point! And this knife would be ideal for that.
A friend sent me this knife for Christmas I absolutely love it
Same 1066 as my BPS - one scandi and the other full flat. Very usable steel and great value. Thanks 👍
I picked up a few BPS knives that have really impressed me so I was curious about Beavercraft. Thanks! And I agree on that odd "lanyard hole."
It comes with a Ferro rod but can you strike a Ferro rod on that spine?
It would be a very simple matter to put improved scales onto this knife, tailored to the user's hand.
According to my investigations, the downwards lanyard hole siting on your BPS example is less than ideal. The Beavercraft would work better for me in this regard, but I would wish to put my own scales on, to improve comfort, and perhaps restrict the lanyard hole to an upper positioning.
Kind of talking myself into another project here ;D
Not going to lie, this knife isn't my favorite. It's okay. It's not the worst knife for sure. My biggest complaint is it needs some type of guard or something to keep your fingers off the blade during hard use. There isn't much there to prevent your hand from sliding down on that blade.
Basically I've got better fixed blades from ESEE, TOPS, Kershaw, Cold Steel, Gerber, Becker/Kabar, Ontario, Morakniv, Buck, Benchmade, Schrade, Nedfoss, that SDOKEDC DC53 blade that's sold on Amazon is the straight up bomb for $25. Yes the last 2 I mentioned are Chinablades, but they're pretty good for the $. And this is just talking fixed blades. Some of my Chinablades that are folders are pretty freaking good. The RAT1 is still my EDC though.
Decent review but would also like to see it in use natoning, feathering, cutting notches, stabbing logs for point strength, using the pommel for smashing, some chopping etc. that is what we want to see. Get out in the bush and use it because it is a bushcraft knife!!!!
minute 08:40 that could be the idea of a bottle opener and nut cracker type design element. but I`m same as you, it looks not that much helpful and even disturbing with larger hands. This detail at the end of any knife, is for me reason enough to stay away from buying.
Lol, it's a pummel for smashing sh*t like small fresh branches to brush your teeth (I'm serious) or for smashing glass or for smashing small rocks or breaking open a can or banging in tent pegs or anything else you need to hammer or smash. It is actually a feature I want on any bushcraft or survival knife with over a 4" blade, I wouldn't buy a knife that size without it. By the way, the guy's hands have tons of room in that handle and it doesn't interfere with him using the knife, if he doesn't know what it is for then WTF is he doing a review on a large bushcraft, camping knife????
@@ericfletcher2887 So true!