It's actually a damper, not a balancer as the LS platforms are internally balanced. That being said, replacing with a factory damper is not the answer. ATI, with an ARP bolt and a dab of silicone in the new damper keyway is really the way to go. Your video is spot on, you definitely know how to build a bullet proof engine.
The main issue is not from the crank bolt being improperly torque, it is from the rubber seal between the two sections of the harmonic balancer which starts coming out and causing an improper balance thus throwing the harmonics of the balancer off causing squeal or wobble. The crank bolt you removed was at proper torque because I promise you that your impact gun would have taken it loose just as easy, especially at only 120ftlbs. The absolute best thing to do here is to use the ARP crank bolt, blow out the crank threads after spraying brake cleaner into the threads then use the supplied lubricant with the ARP crank bolt and it will be much better.
@@redpillgarage hello, yes much appreciated for the great video it shows every step well. i liked the explanation of tools needed and there are some i need to get. cheers chris
Awesome video, would you have a part number for the pulley holder? I removed my starter I have 2” headers and couldn’t seem to get the starter squeezed out. I wound up using a flywheel locking tool. The universal holder would’ve been a life saver 🛟
G'Day Sweaty, The Harmonic balancer removal tool kit part no. HBTK002 is a Powerbond by Dayco Product 16 piece set that I bought from Burson Auto Parts. You can also buy the installer which is like an extra long bolt so you don't have to hammer it in like I did on the video. Thanks for watching and subscribing.
G'day @94fell, there is another way that an experienced Mechanic can perform this buy using a breaker bar and socket, by jamming the bar up against the chassis and having a second person crank the motor to crack the bolt loose. I strongly recommend you "DO NOT" do this as it can be very risky as it can cause injury and damage to the car if you are not experienced. I would advise you to hire a half inch impact gun and socket for 2-4 hours, this is the safer option.
Very nicely layed out except the Chinese Circus music in the background. I wasn't looking for entertainment I was looking for information I could hear good and understand. Thanks bud.
Gday Lee, Thank you for watching the video. I haven't had any problems setting the torque setting and also I like to use a thread locker just to be sure. If unsure look up specs, some specs can vary in settings which is common in the industry. I have found over the years having a online subscription to software/specifications do vary from time to time due to updates.
@@dazacroft7491anti seize goes oh the shaft of crank to ease instal of balancer, the thread locker goes on the Crank bolt that holds balancer on the shaft
G'Day Stephen, yes it is possible that you can feel a vibration once the harmonic balancer has failed. As you probably already know the job of the HB is to dampen vibrations applied to the crankshaft. Having said that, there are many other reasons that you may feel a vibration in the car also. Just have it checked first before spending any serious coin.
Hey mate ive replaced my harmonic balancer with a 25% under pulley on a 6.2 hsv it is wobbling for some reason and i put it on dead straight and followed your steps . What am i doing wrong
Hi mate. Its really easy to get caught out on these type of balancers. Your going to have to pull that balancer back off if you really want to resolve this issue. There are a few reasons unfortunately that can cause this problem. 1) faulty/damaged balancer, check with a straight edge on top and measure with feeler gauges on opposing sides to see if the rubber isolator has separated. 2) Incorrect torque settings will cause wobble. 3) Dirt may be trapped between the balancer and crank, check the crank oil seal spring hasn't fallen off out of the seal trapped between balancer and crank. If all this checks out to be ok, your going have to buy another one, just make sure its a DIFFERENT brand to what you have now (cheap balancers are on going problems). I would at this stage replace the balancer bolt, I WOULDNT be reusing it again as it would be torqued for the 3rd time it could easily snap creating a nightmare for you (there is a special balancer bolt tool high grade steel you can buy for winding in the balancer all the way in). Now lets say for example, if you have the same problem with the 2nd new balancer, you may have a vibration in the motor (rare) or your NOT using the correct torque settings meaning the balancer may need to go in a further 1,2,3, mm maybe. The 6.2Ltr may have different torque settings from the 6.0Ltr L77. Just take your time think it through carefully so you don't miss anything. Patience and thinking through you will resolve it. Always double and triple check, hope this helps good luck.
@@redpillgarage i have replaced it with a powerbond 25% under drive pulley which was brandnew sealed in the box . The pulley has a keyway slot but my crank never had one .
That's because its made to fit more than 1 application, but that shouldn't make any difference. If I'm understanding you that this is the second one, and you've strictly followed the steps I mentioned I think you may have applied the wrong torque settings. It may be off memory for a 6.2Ltr Torqued in degrees and Nm. If you are using Google to get your torque settings, I have found from experience that in almost all cases that they are wrong. The holden workshop software data manual is very detailed on things like this. Hope this helps.
My HB is out on my LS3, you can see the slight wobble, but she's stable if I drive like Miss Daisy. I figured it would take just a wee bit longer than 19:35 mins to do this, magic of editing, I get it but alas, why does it cost so much to get it done if I were to send my car into the mech? I've been quoted by mechs (and other people that have it done) double and a bit than the actual price of the parts. Is it really that much of time n hassle to get this done? The way you shoot your vids, edit and explain is quite good and easy to follow, I'm tempted to do it myself. A Mech that can make good videos, I'm impressed. You've earned my sub. Also, what the difference between 10% and 25% balancers?
G'day Soldier 72, you can do it yourself however you'll need the same tools as described in the video, and also you can purchase an installer which I did not show in the video, It's just a longer bolt than the HB bolt. The time guide gives us 1.6 hours to complete the job. Give yourself a couple of hours and don't rush it, and I recommend playing the video as a step-by-step guide as your doing the job so you don't sidetrack yourself or make a mistake on the job. All my videos are 100% detailed and as accurate as possible and I don't leave any steps out so you'll have the confidence to successfully do the job. The reason you're being quoted more than what you can purchase the part for is simply that it's a business that needs to profit to survive. I don't think they are trying to rip you off, however, keep in mind when you get a Mechanic to do the complete job, by Law they must give you the full warranty on parts and labour (assuming you're in Australia). If you were to buy the part yourself and pay a Mechanic to fit it you'll have zero warranty. Lastly, the 10% HB is an over-drive performance balancer with an increase in diameter also it increases the speed of the supercharger meaning an increase of boost so you don't need to reduce the diameter of the blower pulley. Here is more info dayco.com.au/products.aspx?G=18030502&P=18082970 The 25% HB is an underdrive performance balancer, and what this does it reduces horsepower loss at high rpm that you would normally get from engine accessories like power steering, air con, and alternator, for example. It's usually a smaller HB and performs like a lightweight race flywheel which lets you rev out your engine faster, and have a quicker throttle response. Here is more info dayco.com.au/products.aspx?G=18030502&P=18082969 Thanks for watching and subscribing.
Gday Nic, depending on level of experience, someone that's done a few approx. 1 hour. First timer I would say allow yourself a couple hours approx. providing you have the correct tools for removal and installation. You can buy an install tool which I did not show in the video, as its not worth buying if this is a 1 time repair. Its very similar to the harmonic balancer bolt but longer. A cheaper alternative is possibly buying one from Bunnings Warehouse.
G'day @musicislife927, the HB are a common problem, don't know if that is the reason you can feel a little wobble, your engine mounts could be old and sagged this is also a common symptom. If your HB has a wobble that you can see, I would change it before it gets worst. You'll have no choice sooner or later you'll have to replace it. If it gets rid of the wobble feel then that was your problem, if not check out your engine mounts next to see how much they have sagged.
Be careful using the HB bolt to pull the balancer on ... I stuffed my crank threads doing that ... next time I will use the proper tool to pull it on....
G'day @AndrewKings4, yes that's correct, but there is an easier way also that I did not show. You can also buy the install tool that makes installation much easier than having to take the time to slowly hit the balancer onto the crank, it just makes the job much easier. Its basically a longer bolt so it can pull the balancer onto the crank instead of hitting it like I did. If you wanted to save money and not buy the tool, you can buy a long bolt and washer from your local hardware store, just make sure the thread pitch and bolt thickness is the same as the balancer bolt as to not "damage" the crank threads. If you decide to do it the same way as I did make sure you only hit the inner part of the balancer and "not" the outer edge as not to damage it. Also play and pause the video on your phone step-by-step so you don't deviate away or miss any steps as shown in the video. Just remember to take your time also. One more thing, I recommend you find the current balancer bolt torque settings, (may also include balancer bolt replacement) as I've notice from time to time that the specs can change between software publishers. Hope this helps.
Depends where you get the specs from. Holden use degrees and Nm. Over the years I've noticed different specs. Most Mechanics use Loctite and hit it with an impact gun. Using Loctite, will prevent it from coming loose.
![We Have A 6.0L V8 L98/LS2 Engine And A Plan! [BUILD]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/j1gU1NguNqQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![We Have A 6.0L V8 L98/LS2 Engine And A Plan! [BUILD]](/img/tr.png)
Very well presented, clear instructions easy to follow!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
It's actually a damper, not a balancer as the LS platforms are internally balanced. That being said, replacing with a factory damper is not the answer. ATI, with an ARP bolt and a dab of silicone in the new damper keyway is really the way to go. Your video is spot on, you definitely know how to build a bullet proof engine.
Thank you.
The main issue is not from the crank bolt being improperly torque, it is from the rubber seal between the two sections of the harmonic balancer which starts coming out and causing an improper balance thus throwing the harmonics of the balancer off causing squeal or wobble. The crank bolt you removed was at proper torque because I promise you that your impact gun would have taken it loose just as easy, especially at only 120ftlbs. The absolute best thing to do here is to use the ARP crank bolt, blow out the crank threads after spraying brake cleaner into the threads then use the supplied lubricant with the ARP crank bolt and it will be much better.
Thank you.
Great video, really helped me do my Ve SSV balancer.
Cool, thanks
Wow great video. Going to do this on my Caprice PPV. I have a wobble and squeak
Thanks mate glad you enjoyed it.
I thought torque setting is 235 lb ft or 350nm ?
Also where did you get that universal pulley holder tool ? Cheers
Gday Michael, I don't remember exactly as I've owned it for over 20 years, but I believe you can buy them from Burson Auto Parts as a special order.
Excellent video helped me out alot
Awesome, thank you!
Your videos help so much, they are so educational!! thank you again
Glad you like them!
Great video I presume the vf 6.0 os the same process as i need to do my soon it has a wobble.
That is correct
thanks for the video i might try it myself. My ve ss has a wobble and squealy noise . uses a lot of fuel too .
Hi Chris, Just take your time doing it and watch the video as your doing it. I don't miss any steps in doing the job, so you'll be ok.
@@redpillgarage hello, yes much appreciated for the great video it shows every step well. i liked the explanation of tools needed and there are some i need to get. cheers chris
Great vid mate
Thank you glad you enjoyed it.
Great video, thank you
Glad you liked it!
Awesome video, would you have a part number for the pulley holder? I removed my starter I have 2” headers and couldn’t seem to get the starter squeezed out. I wound up using a flywheel locking tool. The universal holder would’ve been a life saver 🛟
G'Day Sweaty, The Harmonic balancer removal tool kit part no. HBTK002 is a Powerbond by Dayco Product 16 piece set that I bought from Burson Auto Parts. You can also buy the installer which is like an extra long bolt so you don't have to hammer it in like I did on the video. Thanks for watching and subscribing.
If i don’t have an impact what else can i safely use?
G'day @94fell, there is another way that an experienced Mechanic can perform this buy using a breaker bar and socket, by jamming the bar up against the chassis and having a second person crank the motor to crack the bolt loose. I strongly recommend you "DO NOT" do this as it can be very risky as it can cause injury and damage to the car if you are not experienced. I would advise you to hire a half inch impact gun and socket for 2-4 hours, this is the safer option.
Very nicely layed out except the Chinese Circus music in the background.
I wasn't looking for entertainment I was looking for information I could hear good and understand.
Thanks bud.
Glad you liked it!
You did a great job though.
No offense brother thank you.
@@mongoose406 👍
Great video thanks, are you sure that 150nm torque setting is correct?
Gday Lee, Thank you for watching the video. I haven't had any problems setting the torque setting and also I like to use a thread locker just to be sure. If unsure look up specs, some specs can vary in settings which is common in the industry. I have found over the years having a online subscription to software/specifications do vary from time to time due to updates.
@@redpillgarage have seen anti seize recommended also thread locker...little conflicted
@@dazacroft7491anti seize goes oh the shaft of crank to ease instal of balancer, the thread locker goes on the Crank bolt that holds balancer on the shaft
Can you feel a failing HB inside the car? Would it make the car have a slight shake?
G'Day Stephen, yes it is possible that you can feel a vibration once the harmonic balancer has failed. As you probably already know the job of the HB is to dampen vibrations applied to the crankshaft. Having said that, there are many other reasons that you may feel a vibration in the car also. Just have it checked first before spending any serious coin.
Are you first owner? I bought mine used thought I had bad motor mounts turns out someone put solid mounts I went back to poly
Hey mate ive replaced my harmonic balancer with a 25% under pulley on a 6.2 hsv it is wobbling for some reason and i put it on dead straight and followed your steps . What am i doing wrong
Hi mate. Its really easy to get caught out on these type of balancers. Your going to have to pull that balancer back off if you really want to resolve this issue. There are a few reasons unfortunately that can cause this problem. 1) faulty/damaged balancer, check with a straight edge on top and measure with feeler gauges on opposing sides to see if the rubber isolator has separated. 2) Incorrect torque settings will cause wobble. 3) Dirt may be trapped between the balancer and crank, check the crank oil seal spring hasn't fallen off out of the seal trapped between balancer and crank. If all this checks out to be ok, your going have to buy another one, just make sure its a DIFFERENT brand to what you have now (cheap balancers are on going problems). I would at this stage replace the balancer bolt, I WOULDNT be reusing it again as it would be torqued for the 3rd time it could easily snap creating a nightmare for you (there is a special balancer bolt tool high grade steel you can buy for winding in the balancer all the way in). Now lets say for example, if you have the same problem with the 2nd new balancer, you may have a vibration in the motor (rare) or your NOT using the correct torque settings meaning the balancer may need to go in a further 1,2,3, mm maybe. The 6.2Ltr may have different torque settings from the 6.0Ltr L77. Just take your time think it through carefully so you don't miss anything. Patience and thinking through you will resolve it. Always double and triple check, hope this helps good luck.
@@redpillgarage i have replaced it with a powerbond 25% under drive pulley which was brandnew sealed in the box . The pulley has a keyway slot but my crank never had one .
That's because its made to fit more than 1 application, but that shouldn't make any difference. If I'm understanding you that this is the second one, and you've strictly followed the steps I mentioned I think you may have applied the wrong torque settings. It may be off memory for a 6.2Ltr Torqued in degrees and Nm. If you are using Google to get your torque settings, I have found from experience that in almost all cases that they are wrong. The holden workshop software data manual is very detailed on things like this. Hope this helps.
My HB is out on my LS3, you can see the slight wobble, but she's stable if I drive like Miss Daisy. I figured it would take just a wee bit longer than 19:35 mins to do this, magic of editing, I get it but alas, why does it cost so much to get it done if I were to send my car into the mech? I've been quoted by mechs (and other people that have it done) double and a bit than the actual price of the parts. Is it really that much of time n hassle to get this done? The way you shoot your vids, edit and explain is quite good and easy to follow, I'm tempted to do it myself. A Mech that can make good videos, I'm impressed. You've earned my sub. Also, what the difference between 10% and 25% balancers?
G'day Soldier 72, you can do it yourself however you'll need the same tools as described in the video, and also you can purchase an installer which I did not show in the video, It's just a longer bolt than the HB bolt. The time guide gives us 1.6 hours to complete the job. Give yourself a couple of hours and don't rush it, and I recommend playing the video as a step-by-step guide as your doing the job so you don't sidetrack yourself or make a mistake on the job. All my videos are 100% detailed and as accurate as possible and I don't leave any steps out so you'll have the confidence to successfully do the job.
The reason you're being quoted more than what you can purchase the part for is simply that it's a business that needs to profit to survive. I don't think they are trying to rip you off, however, keep in mind when you get a Mechanic to do the complete job, by Law they must give you the full warranty on parts and labour (assuming you're in Australia). If you were to buy the part yourself and pay a Mechanic to fit it you'll have zero warranty.
Lastly, the 10% HB is an over-drive performance balancer with an increase in diameter also it increases the speed of the supercharger meaning an increase of boost so you don't need to reduce the diameter of the blower pulley. Here is more info dayco.com.au/products.aspx?G=18030502&P=18082970
The 25% HB is an underdrive performance balancer, and what this does it reduces horsepower loss at high rpm that you would normally get from engine accessories like power steering, air con, and alternator, for example. It's usually a smaller HB and performs like a lightweight race flywheel which lets you rev out your engine faster, and have a quicker throttle response. Here is more info dayco.com.au/products.aspx?G=18030502&P=18082969
Thanks for watching and subscribing.
How long labour wise would this job take to do?
Gday Nic, depending on level of experience, someone that's done a few approx. 1 hour. First timer I would say allow yourself a couple hours approx. providing you have the correct tools for removal and installation. You can buy an install tool which I did not show in the video, as its not worth buying if this is a 1 time repair. Its very similar to the harmonic balancer bolt but longer. A cheaper alternative is possibly buying one from Bunnings Warehouse.
@@redpillgarage thanks just wanted to see how long garage would charge me labour wise for the job
Hi Nic, I just had a look at my times guide at work and it says 1.6 hours to complete the job. Hope this helps.
Iv got no noise but at the lights and in park at idle car does a little wobble and looking at it it’s wobbly shal i just change this
G'day @musicislife927, the HB are a common problem, don't know if that is the reason you can feel a little wobble, your engine mounts could be old and sagged this is also a common symptom. If your HB has a wobble that you can see, I would change it before it gets worst. You'll have no choice sooner or later you'll have to replace it. If it gets rid of the wobble feel then that was your problem, if not check out your engine mounts next to see how much they have sagged.
@@redpillgarage beautiful mate thanks so much for your reply and feedback 🙏🏻👊🏻really appreciate it and will do exactly what you said 👍
Be careful using the HB bolt to pull the balancer on ... I stuffed my crank threads doing that ... next time I will use the proper tool to pull it on....
Agreed it can happen.
These balancers have no guide of Keyway ? Does it not mater what rotational way it goes back on??
G'day @AndrewKings4, no on this type of balancer.
@@redpillgarage Thank you for your reply, So in theory I can just prepare the new balancer and fix it straight on?
G'day @AndrewKings4, yes that's correct, but there is an easier way also that I did not show. You can also buy the install tool that makes installation much easier than having to take the time to slowly hit the balancer onto the crank, it just makes the job much easier. Its basically a longer bolt so it can pull the balancer onto the crank instead of hitting it like I did. If you wanted to save money and not buy the tool, you can buy a long bolt and washer from your local hardware store, just make sure the thread pitch and bolt thickness is the same as the balancer bolt as to not "damage" the crank threads. If you decide to do it the same way as I did make sure you only hit the inner part of the balancer and "not" the outer edge as not to damage it. Also play and pause the video on your phone step-by-step so you don't deviate away or miss any steps as shown in the video. Just remember to take your time also. One more thing, I recommend you find the current balancer bolt torque settings, (may also include balancer bolt replacement) as I've notice from time to time that the specs can change between software publishers. Hope this helps.
I thought it’s speced for 240 ft Torque
Depends where you get the specs from. Holden use degrees and Nm. Over the years I've noticed different specs. Most Mechanics use Loctite and hit it with an impact gun. Using Loctite, will prevent it from coming loose.
Used blue Loctite. Speced to 220 and I’ve had no issues! Thank you for this video!
@@kyletyra6257 Your welcome.