I never tried to "up sell" anything to a customer. If doing an oil change, it was part of my job to inform customers of issues I may see under their vehicle. Seriously, think about it, how often do customers look underneath their vehicle? Usually, not until there is a problem. It was great of you to notice the leaking differential cover as that is something that definitely needs to be brought to the customers attention.
The dealership I worked at had several plastic triangular signs for our use. “No oil”, “ no brakes”, “do not start”, etc and we placed them on the dash as needed. Some cars would be pushed out on the lot for days or weeks waiting for parts or a warranty decision so there was also the concern of lot people and customers coming up at night to take their cars.
I use 3M Post-It notes just for myself. Your story did remind me that decades ago, when I was a dealer shop gofer, it was my job at the end of the day to pull as many of the German luxury cars into the shop as possible so the drug-addicted DIN-radio thieves didn't smash and grab through the night. One car I pulled in had an oil hose disconnected and I left a long trail into the shop, people yelling and waving their arms. In the aftermath it was agreed that a sign would have helped prevent that.
Kenny's 'Do the Right Thing', Part 37! Alerting your clients to serious conditions on their vehicle, should garner their appreciation and some gratitude, as you probably keep them alive without them even knowing it. Broken down roadside, between Orlando and DeLand in Fl. when a jeep went by, and lost it's driver's rear tire/axle assembly. A couple of parts flew past me on the right shoulder, one just missing me by a couple of feet (which I was happy about!)I didn't catch if the rear cover was broken/blown off, but if it was, that was a piece of something back there. I think this could have been caused by a catastrophic failure in the rear diff of that CJ. I was extremely lucky, that day.
I am 56 yrs old , I have always put oil on the seals of oil filters and I have never had one stick to the engine. I am not a mechanic by profession but I have always changed my own oil.
He's in for a big surprise when he pulls those gears. Can't say how it happened but that rear end is tore up and not repairable. The posi clutches are GONE. You should NEVER SEE the C clips with the main pin installed! The side gears are sunk in at least 2mm each.
The sintered metal spyder gears are of poor quality in the Ford 9.75 and 8.8 electric locker of that time period. The 9.75 carrier has a weak spot where the left side bearing journal casting has a 3-point web that breaks off.
12:00 the real reason for oiling the rubber seal was to make it slip while you were screwing it on. used to be the would twist---or not and tear free from the filter and bunch up. so seals didn't adhere to the filters very well and the seal was a rubber O ring, which is why they didn't seal up to the motors very well, so when the rubber O ring was wet it was to stop that O ring from ripping off the filters and not twisting creating a gap for oil to leak out and to help prevent the O ring from tearing off from being over tightened and binding up. the reason the O ring sticks to the motor is because people being cheap said use the hot old motor oil which is the oil that is burned out and shot. now what i have found is when i pre fill the filter and i spilled or over filled, i used the new oil to lube up the O ring and it never sticks to the motor, but i don't go cheap, i puddle it on that O ring because i know most of it will slide off once i tip the filter to screw it on. that diff cover was worked on, that is excess silicone sticking out on the bottom of it, not the factory seal. some one most likely changed that oil, didn't have a correct seal on hand and the old factory seal was probably leaking and decided silicone was good enough with out getting the same torque pressure all the way around before seating the cover to the housing and mashed that corner down first, the most.
Hello Kenny You remind me of Bob Hagan my auto shop teacher he used to put a column in the paper and answered questions about cars. The best teacher I had back in 1975 thanks for your time on this your experience is priceless
If it's worth the investment... If not, it needs a whole new basket.... Someone was already there for a reason, It was junk before the cover was put back on with the gobs of RTV.
In the past forty years or so I have probably repaired or rebuilt at least a hundred or more differentials, And I would be willing to make a sure bet that, after seeing how low on gear oil that differential was, and how worn those spider gears are, along with all of the metal glitter that looks to be all over everything, That differential also needs a entire set of new bearings at the very least to go along with the spider gears. The ring and pinion probably have a fair amount of wear also. But can be reused sometimes, because they are usually made of harder steel than many of the other components and wear at a bit slower rate , even when run low on oil.
Broken bits discovered during casual inspection. It's like inspecting the 'stone' you crunched on, nearly spat out, but discovered it to be your $500 gold molar.
You got my interest mentioning Randy's. I don't live very far from their MN location! Thinking about rebuilding the transfer case on my '00 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Thank!
As a retired heavy duty diesel mechanic-etc , I’ve got you beat. I started on Cox .049 model airplane motors , then graduated to Briggs & Stratton lawnmower engines and McCulloch two stroke go cart engines then 57 Chevrolet’s. As for myself I’ve always lubed the oil filter seal. I’ve never had one of mine stuck to the filter attachment housing on a engine but I’ve had other filters from other mechanics stick to the attachment housing that I’ve serviced. But I always check any filter mine included to make sure the filter sealing ring is not stuck to the engine. When you where first started talking about this ; I thought you where going to talk about to pre-fill or not pre-fill a oil filter. And about the spider gears as far is I know theirs a cupped brass or bronze washer that goes between the gear and the spool housing.
Oil filter drain on my 2014 5 liter f150 is also a pain. Some oil always stays on the plastic diverter and I'll get an oil drip on my garage floor a day after the change.
Every place I had worked in the automotive trade over 45 years, I too NEVER tried to upsell shyt lol.....I'd make a list of things I'd found that could use attention, now, or later, and leave it to the customer decide when they'd want to address their issues. I did 100's of safety inspections, both for used cars, or auction vehicles, the dealerships I worked at bought. I used to piss off the welders at Waste Management, when I was a diesel tech back in the 80's n 90's. Because I would find frame cracks in places no one else ever checked, thus making more work for our welders. I came to work 1 day, to find a hand made "badge" someone had clipped to my time card it said "CHP Inspector 12" hahaha
I'm 60, I remember crawling under our 1971 Torino station wagon(351 Cleveland) with him to see what he was doing and help with handing him tools. I was small, it was easier for me than him. I'm still skinny and regularly crawl under my own vehicles to see what's going on. 🤔🤓🍻 PS-I was probably 6 or 7 at the time.
3.5 liter EcoBoost is a monster for what it is and out tows the big V-8's. However if you want longevity I would highly recommend using a premium fully synthetic oil and 5,000 mile oil changes if you're working this engine. A high quality oil and filter is key to keeping the timing chains lubricated. Use a cheaper oil or go 10k oil changes and those chains will wear and stretch. Even though it makes terrific hp, torque and pulls like a beast I'd opt for the 5.0 coyote V-8 for simplicity. Same thing with GM and Ram, V-8 engine over the 4 or 6 turbo offerings if you want more reliability and a lower cost of maintenance.
OIL getting all over in a Plane like a Cessna with Retracts. That's why we always installed a Quick Drain you could slip a hose over that drained into a Bucket without splashing.
I lubed the oil filter ring when it's an iron block engine with no sticking, aluminum I never do and never have sticking. Different metal needs different techniques. Love your vids man
The only engine I have where the ring sticks to the engine is a BMW R1200gsa. Aluminum, and it doesn’t matter if you oil the seal or not. I suspect it has to do with higher oil temperature than the average car.
Going to be fixed when the spares come, because you will need to set pinion preload again anyway. So new set of shims there as well, probably new bearings as well, because if they have to come out they might as well go back new.
YES SIR! Visual ! I tell people everytime you fill up your car open the hood look around and CHECK your oil and other vitals if you can..this is an opportunity to see if anything is obviously wrong Thanks love your videos they make lots of sense!
Seals I oil them, as if the seal surface is dry it will stick, especially if the engine side is dry and oil free, then it will stick fast. Oil film on engine or filter seal it tends not to stick.
Drain plug. I always find the plug to be much tighter than I tightened it on all of my minivans (5 different Chryslers). No clue how they do that, but happens every time.There's always oil on the filter adapter, no need to oil the filter gasket. Randy's is good, also Yukon.
71 vw bus was my first! Had a 69 chevelle first, but it ran when I got it. Tye vw clutch was shot. Small beans in retrospect, but it was so different 25 years ago. Just did it, no videos to see it done first
Someone else worked on that rear differential, you can see all the excess gasket in a tube squeezed out of failure to attach brake lines correctly. Good for you spotting the gear lube seepage.
I am 70 yrs old when I was Turning 16 my father bought my older brothers 64 4 Dr rusted out biscayne for me and he had a rebuilt 327 put in it, and he told me the day he gave me the keys ,you had better always pop the hood in the morning and check the oil and antifreeze level no matter what the weather( and we lived in Michigan) and he said if he ever caught me not doing that he would take the car away from me... well I don't check my oil everyday now BUT at least once a week I do check it ...old habits are hard to break
Glad I watched..this is why I do most all repairs myself as can't trust people to do a good job and hopefully get a good mechanic when needed. I bought an 03 with 171k and am going over it..the heater line leaking at firewall has a rad clamp on one side and was loose now is tight with another for insurance. the diff isn't leaking but I been wanting to replace the fluid to know the level good to know to start with the drain plug I couldn't find it and check for shavings on it and then watch to see how much fluid is in there when slowly removing the cover. Oh also checking the slop is important I probably wouldn't of thought to check so thanks again. Subscribed.. Love the ford truck videos. Good day.
There is a lot of residue under that hood. Monday, Mercedes is pulling and re-seating the injectors and changing the transmission oil cooler on my 2012 E250 CDI. I asked them to clean up the area correctly while exposed. I'm OK to pay the time units. I just like it clean to see any unusual accumulations easily and identify the source. I feel that at their shop prices they can wipe off the grease.
From Leo: Your warning is good. I was almost done with a service and tire rotation on a car that was on my hoist. I left for lunch. The customer showed up early and the foreman gave him the car. I had not tightened the lugs and the customer lost a wheel and a fender when the wheel came off.
The practice of oiling the filter gasket probably goes back to the days before our modern rubbers and silicones. The bit of oil may have helped make it easier to remove the gasket when those things dried out over time. I will try not oiling my gaskets for a while and see what happens!
Now on that oiling the oil filter gasket. That's weird. I've changed my own oil since the 70's, and helped dad change his on his '54 Chevy with cartridge filter. (Yeah, I'm old.) And I worked in an Exxon station where I also changed oil and other minor services. But I digress. In all those years, I had a gasket stick exactly once and I've always lubed the new one before installation. Truck and my motorcycles. I always always check it. Oh, and I check it before I put the new filter on. 😂Did I mention I check the mounting surface for an old gasket being stuck?
Been working on cars almost as long as Kenny. In my 30+ years, I think twice some smuck put the filter on dry and must have cleaned the adapter housing, and wrenched them on with at least 200 lbs. of force. That is bad enough when it's assembled dry, but damn? Double whammy". When the strap wrench crushes the filter, and the screwdriver through the filter won't work? Time for some heat by means of mapp gas torch to try and melt the gasket and dissect it.
Oil or no oil. Doesn’t make a difference as long as you use the right filter and make sure it’s clean on the mounting surface and for cripes sake don’t over tighten it. It’s works equally the same either way. Don’t be in a hurry and use some common sense
@@DavidWeinberg-cm9xd I only work on vehicles that are mine, family members, or which belong to where I worked so I don't see huge numbers of cars, but twice I've seen factory-original filters that were screwed on so tightly that the filter housing would simply crush, then rip and tear before the filter itself would unscrew. In those cases we completely removed the bent and shredded filter housing and the internal parts so that only the base plate of the filter remained. Then we built a special wrench with protruding steel pins that matched the pattern of at least three or four of the inlet holes in the base plate. Then, engaging the pins of the wrench head to the holes in the base plate and using a really long handle, the based plate could be unscrewed. I once heard from a mechanic that there was a period of time when a sizable proportion of Chevy trucks came from the factory with filters too tight to remove by any method that involved getting a grip on the filter housing (even by poking a screwdriver through it).
i did fleet service oil changes ,sprayed the seal with magnum.filters up dry.the filter rep in training. advised not to prefill.and only unwrap, right before installing, to avoid the chance of any crap getting in the filter.
I have lubed the filter o-ring for as long as I can remember. I think I've had the o-ring stick to the engine maybe 1 time. What burns my butt is when someone torques the snot out of a filter and you have to use a cheater pipe to get it loose. One of the mechanics I use to work with did that and no matter how many times I'd call him out on it, he still did it. Working for a school district you never know what bus or vehicle you were going to work on and I'd always check to see who did the service previously so I'd know what to expect.
Drain plugs over tightened by these Kids in Quick oil change places. I just had a kid Jame my 2010 Chrysler T&C dipstick in the Tube so tight I broke it trying to extract it to check the Oil level. A week later they replaced it and I checked the oil level and there was just oil on the Very tip of the Stick. It was 2 quarts low. I made a deal with the Kid if he Filled it to the mark I wouldn't say anything to his Boss.
I always see mechanics never remove or pull the dipstick out before adding oil in, to aid in venting. Have you noticed a difference on some cars? Oil will likely pour in faster and less chance of the funnel backing up or overflowing? The last thing I was curious about, since you must know all the little "Tricks of the Trade" was when pouring oil from a 5 qt. jug, do you pour it straight on with the spout , or sideways on a 90 degree angle? Love your videos, man. Take care.
with your lower fingers all the way thru the handle have the 5quart bottle with the spout to the top, you can fine control the pour with out oil pressure rushing out with the spout to the bottom, to aid in getting it closer to a very short funnel you can tilt your wrist or arm to 45º the spout down, but a short funnel isn't recommended as it's a great way to spill oil all over the engine and could lead to an engine compartment fire going down the road if too much gets on the motor and around the plastic parts, this also leads to the engine that gets oil on it also collecting dirt and dust, and the fan will be blowing oil all over the engine as well exacerbating the wet engine problem multi fold number of times. as far as the dip stick, yes it helps, but the wide mouths on the manifold covers i never use a funnel so big it plugs up the cover fill hole, but on a garden tractor yeah it helps alot. i really like those pour nozzles with the hose that screw on to oil bottles if i don't have my flexi large spout hose oil filling can available for use, such as when i am at a gas station checking my oil levels
When I was 16 years old and sitting in my 66 VW Beetle listening to the radio parked in front of my parents home suddenly a tire came rolling by. I ran out in the street and stopped it. Looking up the street was a car parked with no rear wheel/tire. I rolled it up to the guy and he'd just got new tires put on his car from a shop maybe 5 blocks away. He was obviously irritated but proceeded to tell me he'd, "helped out" by putting on his hubcaps at the shop.
Kenny, my sons KIA Sedona just had an oil leak at the left front of the engine, and flickering oil light problem (V6). There was a recall on the oil pressure switch, and it was in the valley of the V so the upper and lower intake had to come off. But get this, the oil pressure switch was leaking, but it wasn’t putting much oil in the valley where the bulletin said it would likely appear. The oil was actually being pushed up into the connection and THRU THE INSULATION OF THE ELECTRICAL WIRING, and coming out at the left front of the engine where some engine control switches and solenoids were. It was looking like the valve cover was leaking and also drips on the belt flung a bit of oil around. For clarification, the oil was getting pressed inside the wire, and flowing in the same area as the copper wire, not on the outside of the wire.
When I was 19 back in 63, I bought a ragged azz 56 Chevrolet Convertible. I could turn one of the rear wheels a half turn before the spyder gears engaged. The diff didn't make that much noise and I drove the heck out of that car for 17k miles before trading it and never repaired the diff which was one of the few things I didn't repair.
this video has great tips for beginners in the field and honestly is just plays that everyone should do. the only thing i disagreed with was saying "were not gonna let him take this" i know he didnt mean it in the extreme. but never tell a customer you're keeping your car from them. warn and prepare the customer and document everything!
I’ve been doing oil changes for over 45 years and I have oil seen one oil filter seal stick to the engine. I usually only work on my cars and never over tighten the oil filter.
one time when i first started wrenching, i pulled a car in for an oil change. Pull the oil cap and put it in the air. Before I could drain the oil I get called off to do whatever it was. Come back 20 mins later and for some reason my mind thought I had drained the oil already before I left. I did not. Put the car down and proceed to fill it with 5 quarts of oil. It was a type of car I had changed oil on hundreds of times and I knew exactly how much oil it took without checking. Rookie mistake. As soon as I start it up and start pulling out of my bay, the entire shop was filled with thick thick white smoke lol. Put it back up, drained the oil, filled it with the proper amount, and shipped it. I hope the catalytic converter was ok lol and I always always check the oil when im done now Lesson learned
I remember a screw up when I was working at a quick lube place. I was only used to working on Domestic cars when I was 19. I drained the trans instead of the oil on a fwd import. Never saw a trans pan with a drain plug in it. I just started working there and was really nervous. I did realize pretty quick what I had just done. Never ever had that happen again. No lesson, like a lesson learned the hard way?
#14:30 put the cover [ after clean up ] on the edge of a table, upside down so you can knock out the bolt holes with a ball peen hammer. Some covers are thin like valve cover and require this.
This is probably a dumb question, but should you always replace the nylon washer on the drain plug with a new one? This vehicle you are working on doesn't have one. Would you put one on when you are done with the oil change? To my way of thinking, it would make it less likely to leak then just leaving it metal on metal. Just a dumb backyard mechanic asking a question. Thank you.
I have aways put oil on the new filter and never had them stick ... not once. Here's one for ya, had a friend who said that every time he changed his oil filter, had to put a screw driver in the filter to get it off. Do you think he's over tighting it? That aways made me laugh Thanks for sharing
I take exception to the oil on the filter question, I always put oil on the rubber gasket, its matter of coeficient of friction situation, rubber on steel high COF, add oil and you can get additional 1/8th turn more than no oil, of course do it with out strap rench only hand tight. lack of appropiate oil in the diff can also cause such, esp in limited slip diff. using regular oil must use redline additive or such I replaced gears in my 2500 the spider gears could cut tough meat easy, I pulled out handpulls of metal in that situation. I over fill the diff , I know it causes drag but I know if I heat up the oil its going to go out of the vent, also put a tube on the vent and run it up in the engine compartment so as to prevent water in high water situations from getting in to the diff.
I always put a small amount of silicon lube ( Dow Corning 111/Super Lube) on the seal. The next guy will thank me. When doing a fleet of Cat diesel engines, it got much easier when they cycled around after using silicon lube.
You need to inspect cause the owner doesnt. From the customers perspective.. time goes slow, and before they know it the oil they thought they changed 4 months ago has been in there two years. You do good work kenny!
Breather fumes go into the air intake before reaching the turbo, "boost pressure is only built up after passing through the turbo", why are you assuming this missing breather pipe should be causing boost problems.
My thought with gasket is if there is some residual oil on the sealing surface just so the dry gasket on the dry surface can slide a little and not tare
There's Always some tool bag that wants to nit pick words in a comment. Do you want to have a debate on what it's made of yes I didn't use the correct term in your eyes. Your no diffrent than every idiot that comments about not using a torque wrench. Make sure u correct all my grammar mistakes also, make yourself feel useful for once. BTW I wasn't talking about the cover you twit
My co-worker just had to replace his 2016 3.5 Eco boost in his F150 to the tune of $12,500. He always had the dealer perform the scheduled maintenance. In addition he just paid off the loan last August and now it is like he has to buy the truck all over again. Crazy prices for technology.
@@toenails. How many miles were on the engine? One important note about those Eco's, whether a 4 banger or that big 3.5 and or 3.7 one's is that they would and should have no more than 5K miles between oil changes with the proper grade synthetic. If that were my truck, I would do it every 3K miles? Oilis much cheaper than engines, and unfortunately the dealer probably recommends 10K intervals. Even "Ford Boss Me" said that even at 5K, is sometimes too long?
@@DavidWeinberg-cm9xd 116,000 miles. I agree the dealer intervals are too long especially if you want to get several hundred thousand out of a vehicle. Those long intervals get you about 100,000 and then it cost ya big!
I never tried to "up sell" anything to a customer. If doing an oil change, it was part of my job to inform customers of issues I may see under their vehicle. Seriously, think about it, how often do customers look underneath their vehicle? Usually, not until there is a problem. It was great of you to notice the leaking differential cover as that is something that definitely needs to be brought to the customers attention.
Yep my first clue was the metal on the fill plug, that's never a good sign. Keep the good stuff coming Kenny.
The dealership I worked at had several plastic triangular signs for our use. “No oil”, “ no brakes”, “do not start”, etc and we placed them on the dash as needed. Some cars would be pushed out on the lot for days or weeks waiting for parts or a warranty decision so there was also the concern of lot people and customers coming up at night to take their cars.
I use 3M Post-It notes just for myself.
Your story did remind me that decades ago, when I was a dealer shop gofer, it was my job at the end of the day to pull as many of the German luxury cars into the shop as possible so the drug-addicted DIN-radio thieves didn't smash and grab through the night.
One car I pulled in had an oil hose disconnected and I left a long trail into the shop, people yelling and waving their arms. In the aftermath it was agreed that a sign would have helped prevent that.
Kenny's 'Do the Right Thing', Part 37!
Alerting your clients to serious conditions on their vehicle, should garner their appreciation and some gratitude, as you probably keep them alive without them even knowing it.
Broken down roadside, between Orlando and DeLand in Fl. when a jeep went by, and lost it's driver's rear tire/axle assembly. A couple of parts flew past me on the right shoulder, one just missing me by a couple of feet (which I was happy about!)I didn't catch if the rear cover was broken/blown off, but if it was, that was a piece of something back there. I think this could have been caused by a catastrophic failure in the rear diff of that CJ. I was extremely lucky, that day.
An honest mechanic is worth his weight in gold. The “up sell” is a real thing in too many auto shops. Makes people leery.
I am 56 yrs old , I have always put oil on the seals of oil filters and I have never had one stick to the engine. I am not a mechanic by profession but I have always changed my own oil.
Good catch, that missing shim caused a lot of incidental wear to those spider gears!
He's in for a big surprise when he pulls those gears. Can't say how it happened but that rear end is tore up and not repairable. The posi clutches are GONE. You should NEVER SEE the C clips with the main pin installed! The side gears are sunk in at least 2mm each.
The sintered metal spyder gears are of poor quality in the Ford 9.75 and 8.8 electric locker of that time period. The 9.75 carrier has a weak spot where the left side bearing journal casting has a 3-point web that breaks off.
Good catch on the filler plug! With that much metal you knew there was a problem!
That's a given. It would be hard not to see that!
12:00 the real reason for oiling the rubber seal was to make it slip while you were screwing it on. used to be the would twist---or not and tear free from the filter and bunch up. so seals didn't adhere to the filters very well and the seal was a rubber O ring, which is why they didn't seal up to the motors very well, so when the rubber O ring was wet it was to stop that O ring from ripping off the filters and not twisting creating a gap for oil to leak out and to help prevent the O ring from tearing off from being over tightened and binding up.
the reason the O ring sticks to the motor is because people being cheap said use the hot old motor oil which is the oil that is burned out and shot. now what i have found is when i pre fill the filter and i spilled or over filled, i used the new oil to lube up the O ring and it never sticks to the motor, but i don't go cheap, i puddle it on that O ring because i know most of it will slide off once i tip the filter to screw it on.
that diff cover was worked on, that is excess silicone sticking out on the bottom of it, not the factory seal. some one most likely changed that oil, didn't have a correct seal on hand and the old factory seal was probably leaking and decided silicone was good enough with out getting the same torque pressure all the way around before seating the cover to the housing and mashed that corner down first, the most.
Been oiling filter rings for 50 years never had one stick...
me either. oil is slippery. no oil is sticky.
Never is a long time
Those spider gears are a common failure on the f150. Good catch on both!
Randy's is a great company.
Hello Kenny You remind me of Bob Hagan my auto shop teacher he used to put a column in the paper and answered questions about cars. The best teacher I had back in 1975 thanks for your time on this your experience is priceless
Good time to install a locker. The True Trac locker is a really nice piece.
If it's worth the investment... If not, it needs a whole new basket.... Someone was already there for a reason, It was junk before the cover was put back on with the gobs of RTV.
That is already an electric locker 9.75
In the past forty years or so I have probably repaired or rebuilt at least a hundred or more differentials,
And I would be willing to make a sure bet that, after seeing how low on gear oil that differential was, and how worn those spider gears are, along with all of the metal glitter that looks to be all over everything,
That differential also needs a entire set of new bearings at the very least to go along with the spider gears.
The ring and pinion probably have a fair amount of wear also. But can be reused sometimes, because they are usually made of harder steel than many of the other components and wear at a bit slower rate , even when run low on oil.
Broken bits discovered during casual inspection.
It's like inspecting the 'stone' you crunched on, nearly spat out, but discovered it to be your $500 gold molar.
You got my interest mentioning Randy's. I don't live very far from their MN location! Thinking about rebuilding the transfer case on my '00 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Thank!
You are so honest! That's good!
I recently stumbled upon your channel and like your approach to everything. You and some other channels like South Main Auto do great work.
Kenny certainly does! This one is going to be one of those curve ball mother lovers! The basket is toast! Note the C-clips that you SHOULDN'T see!
As a retired heavy duty diesel mechanic-etc , I’ve got you beat. I started on Cox .049 model airplane motors , then graduated to Briggs & Stratton lawnmower engines and McCulloch two stroke go cart engines then 57 Chevrolet’s. As for myself I’ve always lubed the oil filter seal. I’ve never had one of mine stuck to the filter attachment housing on a engine but I’ve had other filters from other mechanics stick to the attachment housing that I’ve serviced. But I always check any filter mine included to make sure the filter sealing ring is not stuck to the engine. When you where first started talking about this ; I thought you where going to talk about to pre-fill or not pre-fill a oil filter. And about the spider gears as far is I know theirs a cupped brass or bronze washer that goes between the gear and the spool housing.
Thanks Kenny, really enjoy the channel.
Oil filter drain on my 2014 5 liter f150 is also a pain. Some oil always stays on the plastic diverter and I'll get an oil drip on my garage floor a day after the change.
So right all around. Especially overtightening oil drain plugs.
Important for sure, but what are the holding back? Gravity only. No real pressure.
True, but there is also vibration that can loosen stuff up. Thanks for watching 🔧
Aye. Tight, but no gorilla torqing!
Cheers.
Your video’s are easily the best out there, thank you!
Every place I had worked in the automotive trade over 45 years, I too NEVER tried to upsell shyt lol.....I'd make a list of things I'd found that could use attention, now, or later, and leave it to the customer decide when they'd want to address their issues. I did 100's of safety inspections, both for used cars, or auction vehicles, the dealerships I worked at bought.
I used to piss off the welders at Waste Management, when I was a diesel tech back in the 80's n 90's. Because I would find frame cracks in places no one else ever checked, thus making more work for our welders. I came to work 1 day, to find a hand made "badge" someone had clipped to my time card it said "CHP Inspector 12" hahaha
Great story! Thanks for watching 🔧
@stevophillips4121 what places no one checked for cracks?
I'm 60, I remember crawling under our 1971 Torino station wagon(351 Cleveland) with him to see what he was doing and help with handing him tools. I was small, it was easier for me than him. I'm still skinny and regularly crawl under my own vehicles to see what's going on.
🤔🤓🍻
PS-I was probably 6 or 7 at the time.
Randy's Ring and Pinion had the parts I needed for my old 99 Jeep GC.
Nice bit of care on your jo there 👍👍👍👍👍
3.5 liter EcoBoost is a monster for what it is and out tows the big V-8's. However if you want longevity I would highly recommend using a premium fully synthetic oil and 5,000 mile oil changes if you're working this engine. A high quality oil and filter is key to keeping the timing chains lubricated. Use a cheaper oil or go 10k oil changes and those chains will wear and stretch. Even though it makes terrific hp, torque and pulls like a beast I'd opt for the 5.0 coyote V-8 for simplicity. Same thing with GM and Ram, V-8 engine over the 4 or 6 turbo offerings if you want more reliability and a lower cost of maintenance.
OIL getting all over in a Plane like a Cessna with Retracts. That's why we always installed a Quick Drain you could slip a hose over that drained into a Bucket without splashing.
Good find, nice job ! Thanks for sharing!
Wow, nice catch there.
I lubed the oil filter ring when it's an iron block engine with no sticking, aluminum I never do and never have sticking.
Different metal needs different techniques.
Love your vids man
The only engine I have where the ring sticks to the engine is a BMW R1200gsa. Aluminum, and it doesn’t matter if you oil the seal or not. I suspect it has to do with higher oil temperature than the average car.
Hey thanks again great find if it was mine I would appreciate ya
Good idea with the trough there Ford. Lol.
Good catch. It looked like the backlash was excessive in the ring an pinion to me as well
Going to be fixed when the spares come, because you will need to set pinion preload again anyway. So new set of shims there as well, probably new bearings as well, because if they have to come out they might as well go back new.
Did you see the C clip! The clutches are toast, and the basket is scored. It's junk.
I doubt this will be repaired. I expect, replacement.
YES SIR! Visual ! I tell people everytime you fill up your car open the hood look around and CHECK your oil and other vitals if you can..this is an opportunity to see if anything is obviously wrong Thanks love your videos they make lots of sense!
Yaeh most people just put fuel in & drive a very few (mostly women not being sexist just truthful) don't even do that.
Seals I oil them, as if the seal surface is dry it will stick, especially if the engine side is dry and oil free, then it will stick fast. Oil film on engine or filter seal it tends not to stick.
Detroit Axle great company on stuff like that... Used them on 2 F150 rear differential rebuild... Quick service to you and great CS...
I ALWAYS rub old oil on the filter o-ring and it NEVER sticks to the engine. And I NEVER pre-fill the filter and have NEVER had a problem.
🎉 excellent 👍 mechanical Watson 😁 👍 good work Sherlock
Drain plug. I always find the plug to be much tighter than I tightened it on all of my minivans (5 different Chryslers). No clue how they do that, but happens every time.There's always oil on the filter adapter, no need to oil the filter gasket. Randy's is good, also Yukon.
71 vw bus was my first! Had a 69 chevelle first, but it ran when I got it. Tye vw clutch was shot. Small beans in retrospect, but it was so different 25 years ago. Just did it, no videos to see it done first
Someone else worked on that rear differential, you can see all the excess gasket in a tube squeezed out of failure to attach brake lines correctly. Good for you spotting the gear lube seepage.
check the vent tube on the rear also
I am 70 yrs old when I was Turning 16 my father bought my older brothers 64 4 Dr rusted out biscayne for me and he had a rebuilt 327 put in it, and he told me the day he gave me the keys ,you had better always pop the hood in the morning and check the oil and antifreeze level no matter what the weather( and we lived in Michigan) and he said if he ever caught me not doing that he would take the car away from me... well I don't check my oil everyday now BUT at least once a week I do check it ...old habits are hard to break
Glad I watched..this is why I do most all repairs myself as can't trust people to do a good job and hopefully get a good mechanic when needed. I bought an 03 with 171k and am going over it..the heater line leaking at firewall has a rad clamp on one side and was loose now is tight with another for insurance. the diff isn't leaking but I been wanting to replace the fluid to know the level good to know to start with the drain plug I couldn't find it and check for shavings on it and then watch to see how much fluid is in there when slowly removing the cover. Oh also checking the slop is important I probably wouldn't of thought to check so thanks again.
Subscribed.. Love the ford truck videos.
Good day.
Thank you.
very good call--sure saved large repair or worse --should make happy coustomer !!!!!!!!!!!!!
There is a lot of residue under that hood. Monday, Mercedes is pulling and re-seating the injectors and changing the transmission oil cooler on my 2012 E250 CDI. I asked them to clean up the area correctly while exposed. I'm OK to pay the time units. I just like it clean to see any unusual accumulations easily and identify the source. I feel that at their shop prices they can wipe off the grease.
From Leo: Your warning is good. I was almost done with a service and tire rotation on a car that was on my hoist. I left for lunch. The customer showed up early and the foreman gave him the car. I had not tightened the lugs and the customer lost a wheel and a fender when the wheel came off.
The practice of oiling the filter gasket probably goes back to the days before our modern rubbers and silicones. The bit of oil may have helped make it easier to remove the gasket when those things dried out over time. I will try not oiling my gaskets for a while and see what happens!
Now on that oiling the oil filter gasket. That's weird. I've changed my own oil since the 70's, and helped dad change his on his '54 Chevy with cartridge filter. (Yeah, I'm old.) And I worked in an Exxon station where I also changed oil and other minor services. But I digress. In all those years, I had a gasket stick exactly once and I've always lubed the new one before installation. Truck and my motorcycles. I always always check it. Oh, and I check it before I put the new filter on. 😂Did I mention I check the mounting surface for an old gasket being stuck?
Been working on cars almost as long as Kenny. In my 30+ years, I think twice some smuck put the filter on dry and must have cleaned the adapter housing, and wrenched them on with at least 200 lbs. of force. That is bad enough when it's assembled dry, but damn? Double whammy". When the strap wrench crushes the filter, and the screwdriver through the filter won't work? Time for some heat by means of mapp gas torch to try and melt the gasket and dissect it.
Oil or no oil. Doesn’t make a difference as long as you use the right filter and make sure it’s clean on the mounting surface and for cripes sake don’t over tighten it. It’s works equally the same either way. Don’t be in a hurry and use some common sense
@@DavidWeinberg-cm9xd I only work on vehicles that are mine, family members, or which belong to where I worked so I don't see huge numbers of cars, but twice I've seen factory-original filters that were screwed on so tightly that the filter housing would simply crush, then rip and tear before the filter itself would unscrew. In those cases we completely removed the bent and shredded filter housing and the internal parts so that only the base plate of the filter remained. Then we built a special wrench with protruding steel pins that matched the pattern of at least three or four of the inlet holes in the base plate. Then, engaging the pins of the wrench head to the holes in the base plate and using a really long handle, the based plate could be unscrewed. I once heard from a mechanic that there was a period of time when a sizable proportion of Chevy trucks came from the factory with filters too tight to remove by any method that involved getting a grip on the filter housing (even by poking a screwdriver through it).
Good diagnosis...
They stick when they are over tightened and break seal loose from filter....or cheap filters....always oiled...never had one stick I installed
The spider gears are trashed, how does the ring and pinion look? you might be rebuilding the whole differential assembly!
You could tell someone was in there by the silicone on the cover I love the work you show and do
I thought the same thing!
I usually just put the key in my pocket until I’m done with it, that prevents anybody taking off in it without oil
You make a valid point. I like to have the steering unlocked & the car in neutral while I'm working on it.
i did fleet service oil changes ,sprayed the seal with magnum.filters up dry.the filter rep in
training. advised not to prefill.and only unwrap, right before installing, to avoid the chance of any crap getting in the filter.
and i shut the bus down on the engine side.and the engine door open.
I have lubed the filter o-ring for as long as I can remember. I think I've had the o-ring stick to the engine maybe 1 time. What burns my butt is when someone torques the snot out of a filter and you have to use a cheater pipe to get it loose. One of the mechanics I use to work with did that and no matter how many times I'd call him out on it, he still did it. Working for a school district you never know what bus or vehicle you were going to work on and I'd always check to see who did the service previously so I'd know what to expect.
I like your videos I have learned a lot even tho I’m not a mechanic thank you
Drain plugs over tightened by these Kids in Quick oil change places. I just had a kid Jame my 2010 Chrysler T&C dipstick in the Tube so tight I broke it trying to extract it to check the Oil level. A week later they replaced it and I checked the oil level and there was just oil on the Very tip of the Stick. It was 2 quarts low. I made a deal with the Kid if he Filled it to the mark I wouldn't say anything to his Boss.
Nice video Kenny
I always see mechanics never remove or pull the dipstick out before adding oil in, to aid in venting. Have you noticed a difference on some cars? Oil will likely pour in faster and less chance of the funnel backing up or overflowing? The last thing I was curious about, since you must know all the little "Tricks of the Trade" was when pouring oil from a 5 qt. jug, do you pour it straight on with the spout , or sideways on a 90 degree angle? Love your videos, man. Take care.
Use the dipstick to aid the oil flow into the valve cover.
with your lower fingers all the way thru the handle have the 5quart bottle with the spout to the top, you can fine control the pour with out oil pressure rushing out with the spout to the bottom, to aid in getting it closer to a very short funnel you can tilt your wrist or arm to 45º the spout down, but a short funnel isn't recommended as it's a great way to spill oil all over the engine and could lead to an engine compartment fire going down the road if too much gets on the motor and around the plastic parts, this also leads to the engine that gets oil on it also collecting dirt and dust, and the fan will be blowing oil all over the engine as well exacerbating the wet engine problem multi fold number of times.
as far as the dip stick, yes it helps, but the wide mouths on the manifold covers i never use a funnel so big it plugs up the cover fill hole, but on a garden tractor yeah it helps alot.
i really like those pour nozzles with the hose that screw on to oil bottles if i don't have my flexi large spout hose oil filling can available for use, such as when i am at a gas station checking my oil levels
Great video Kenny.
When I was 16 years old and sitting in my 66 VW Beetle listening to the radio parked in front of my parents home suddenly a tire came rolling by. I ran out in the street and stopped it. Looking up the street was a car parked with no rear wheel/tire. I rolled it up to the guy and he'd just got new tires put on his car from a shop maybe 5 blocks away. He was obviously irritated but proceeded to tell me he'd, "helped out" by putting on his hubcaps at the shop.
Kenny, my sons KIA Sedona just had an oil leak at the left front of the engine, and flickering oil light problem (V6). There was a recall on the oil pressure switch, and it was in the valley of the V so the upper and lower intake had to come off. But get this, the oil pressure switch was leaking, but it wasn’t putting much oil in the valley where the bulletin said it would likely appear. The oil was actually being pushed up into the connection and THRU THE INSULATION OF THE ELECTRICAL WIRING, and coming out at the left front of the engine where some engine control switches and solenoids were. It was looking like the valve cover was leaking and also drips on the belt flung a bit of oil around. For clarification, the oil was getting pressed inside the wire, and flowing in the same area as the copper wire, not on the outside of the wire.
I've had that happen on a 94 jeep grand cherokee
Oil leaks will often be drawn up the wiring into the harness connector. This is a regular occurrence on automobiles in general.
Well it’s a Korea import auto
Capillary action in effect, with the oil working it's way through another system.
2010 hyundai 3.5l blew out 4 op sensors before I put in a plug.
When I was 19 back in 63, I bought a ragged azz 56 Chevrolet Convertible. I could turn one of the rear wheels a half turn before the spyder gears engaged. The diff didn't make that much noise and I drove the heck out of that car for 17k miles before trading it and never repaired the diff which was one of the few things I didn't repair.
this video has great tips for beginners in the field and honestly is just plays that everyone should do. the only thing i disagreed with was saying "were not gonna let him take this" i know he didnt mean it in the extreme. but never tell a customer you're keeping your car from them. warn and prepare the customer and document everything!
I’ve been doing oil changes for over 45 years and I have oil seen one oil filter seal stick to the engine. I usually only work on my cars and never over tighten the oil filter.
one time when i first started wrenching, i pulled a car in for an oil change. Pull the oil cap and put it in the air. Before I could drain the oil I get called off to do whatever it was. Come back 20 mins later and for some reason my mind thought I had drained the oil already before I left. I did not. Put the car down and proceed to fill it with 5 quarts of oil. It was a type of car I had changed oil on hundreds of times and I knew exactly how much oil it took without checking. Rookie mistake. As soon as I start it up and start pulling out of my bay, the entire shop was filled with thick thick white smoke lol. Put it back up, drained the oil, filled it with the proper amount, and shipped it. I hope the catalytic converter was ok lol and I always always check the oil when im done now Lesson learned
I remember a screw up when I was working at a quick lube place. I was only used to working on Domestic cars when I was 19. I drained the trans instead of the oil on a fwd import. Never saw a trans pan with a drain plug in it. I just started working there and was really nervous. I did realize pretty quick what I had just done. Never ever had that happen again. No lesson, like a lesson learned the hard way?
I am not a ecoboost fan either. I still run my 30 year old straight 6 in my Ford truck.
Hahahah! That's Ford for ya! Oil pours out onto the ground anyway.
Good catch 👍
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience
Why would the diff fill plug be magnetic when it is not submerged in the oil?
#14:30 put the cover [ after clean up ] on the edge of a table, upside down so you can knock out the bolt holes with a ball peen hammer. Some covers are thin like valve cover and require this.
Thanks for the video well done 👍✅. Take care of yourself and family and be Blessed ❤️❤️❤️.
I couldn't find the follow up video for fixing the diff?
The reason drain plugs are always striped is lube shops start them with power tools.
This is probably a dumb question, but should you always replace the nylon washer on the drain plug with a new one? This vehicle you are working on doesn't have one. Would you put one on when you are done with the oil change? To my way of thinking, it would make it less likely to leak then just leaving it metal on metal. Just a dumb backyard mechanic asking a question. Thank you.
Great catch! Too bad for the customer - more $ into the money pit.
took a page from Audi's engineering. Turbo it & then kid yourself about plastic breathers & tubes holding the pressure in.
Looking forward to the gear video!
I have aways put oil on the new filter and never had them stick ... not once.
Here's one for ya, had a friend who said that every time he changed his oil filter, had to put a screw driver in the filter to get it off. Do you think he's over tighting it? That aways made me laugh
Thanks for sharing
Kenny. I myself also have over forty years of experience
I take exception to the oil on the filter question, I always put oil on the rubber gasket, its matter of coeficient of friction situation, rubber on steel high COF, add oil and you can get additional 1/8th turn more than no oil, of course do it with out strap rench only hand tight. lack of appropiate oil in the diff can also cause such, esp in limited slip diff. using regular oil must use redline additive or such I replaced gears in my 2500 the spider gears could cut tough meat easy, I pulled out handpulls of metal in that situation. I over fill the diff , I know it causes drag but I know if I heat up the oil its going to go out of the vent, also put a tube on the vent and run it up in the engine compartment so as to prevent water in high water situations from getting in to the diff.
I always put a small amount of silicon lube ( Dow Corning 111/Super Lube) on the seal. The next guy will thank me. When doing a fleet of Cat diesel engines, it got much easier when they cycled around after using silicon lube.
You need to inspect cause the owner doesnt. From the customers perspective.. time goes slow, and before they know it the oil they thought they changed 4 months ago has been in there two years. You do good work kenny!
The way manufacturers shield engines with plastic covers dissuades many from getting their hands dirty in case they break anything!
Very informative video. That rear differential has all the signs of a poor mechanic or inexperienced DIY effort.
The topic of discussion is why does everyone crank the filter so tight
Breather fumes go into the air intake before reaching the turbo, "boost pressure is only built up after passing through the turbo", why are you assuming this missing breather pipe should be causing boost problems.
I want to know what happens. thanks
Great advice, thanks
My thought with gasket is if there is some residual oil on the sealing surface just so the dry gasket on the dry surface can slide a little and not tare
Those covers use silicon. No gasket
There's Always some tool bag that wants to nit pick words in a comment. Do you want to have a debate on what it's made of yes I didn't use the correct term in your eyes. Your no diffrent than every idiot that comments about not using a torque wrench.
Make sure u correct all my grammar mistakes also,
make yourself feel useful for once. BTW I wasn't talking about the cover you twit
good video
Watch all your videos like your thoroughness about other issues on vehicle to tell customer about other issues about to need fixing
When I was at the ford grage they said i was fault finding looking for bad things
Kenny I watch different videos and Rainman Ray is working on catalytic converter too
My co-worker just had to replace his 2016 3.5 Eco boost in his F150 to the tune of $12,500. He always had the dealer perform the scheduled maintenance. In addition he just paid off the loan last August and now it is like he has to buy the truck all over again. Crazy prices for technology.
That is no fun. Most would say to Coyote swap it? The 5.0 Coyote is a more reliable engine, but will need a little more extra work and maybe $.
@@DavidWeinberg-cm9xd Yeah wiring harnesses and computer changes would be necessary I'm sure?
@@toenails. How many miles were on the engine? One important note about those Eco's, whether a 4 banger or that big 3.5 and or 3.7 one's is that they would and should have no more than 5K miles between oil changes with the proper grade synthetic. If that were my truck, I would do it every 3K miles? Oilis much cheaper than engines, and unfortunately the dealer probably recommends 10K intervals. Even "Ford Boss Me" said that even at 5K, is sometimes too long?
@@DavidWeinberg-cm9xd 116,000 miles. I agree the dealer intervals are too long especially if you want to get several hundred thousand out of a vehicle. Those long intervals get you about 100,000 and then it cost ya big!