Thanks for helping keep this hobby alive, I'm 49 and stared collecting again, building up a huge collection for retirement so I can play with trains for the rest of my life when I do retire. Great video also, I need to lube my Athearn's they are all from the 70's. Also Tyco's and Bachmann's....
I’ve been cleaning the Commutator for about an hour now and it’s still coming off on the paper towel as black as it was when I started. What should I do?
Athearn has never returned any of the several e-mails I sent in the last month. I had questions for them about the first two locomotives I bought from them. One pulses at low speed, the other has a loud motor noise. One part had broken off and was not in the box. I wanted to get a replacement part. What terrible customer service!
Young Man you are nothin but A PRO, I'm need you do this to all 19 locomotives I've got mostly Athearns but I've also got a few SD 80s, and 90s in katos, and a couple bachmans, THANKS FOR SHARING THIS WITH me ✌️😉👍 more please 😊
Awsome restoration Video! I usually expect the plastic on my locomotives to be more brittle or weaker than I should. Always surprises me when I take off the shell in a weird way and nothing cracks. Definitely proves that you really do get what you pay for when buying locomotives.
Athearn blue box locomotives both with and with out flywheels were relatively simple and durable drives. The one on the video is an early FM. It has zinc flywheels. Later production had brass flywheels. The bodies came in two styles. The one in the video is an SP version with train number boards and SP style Mars lite housing. The other body style was simpler. It should last a long time with little to no maintenance. I've had one for 40 years thereabouts. I think I purchased it around 1980.
Have been out of the hobby for several years and finally getting back into it. Have a couple Atherns of this vintage and just bought about 20 more. Im going to have a lot of maintenance to catch up on
Great idea to use alcohol to clean the commetator(?). With so many locomotives I have of Athearns with the brass motor and flywheel type, I Begun keeping a log of what I did to my engines. That way I can go back to see the time and date and decide if they need more help.
Always keep those Sintered wheel sets, they allow much more traction than the current Nickle silver sets at the cost of more cleaning. You get much more pulling power too with the old Sintered wheels. Save em if you replace them as they are sought after due to cracking easily when launched off tables lol.
I just need to grab one of my older, DC loco's that's hardly ever used, cleaning supplies, and watch your videos as I'm cleaning it! Then pop over to 2448toyman's channel and watch how he does a hard wire decoder and sound decoder and speaker install and just follow along! It might take me a few days or a week to do 1 loco, but it would be cheaper than mailing it to someone! RH
That's what makes the community fantastic, there is almost always someone who can help in any field in the hobby because they focus on that part. I've learned so much more in the two years on youtube then the other ten years I been in the hobby.
i never seen an athearn having a motor like that. i know i have 1 f7 locomotive looks similar but the motor is totally different . must be vintage vs the one i have. but also mine is like 5 or so years old rarely run but when i have pulls great takes very little volts to move it vs the bachmann one and vintage tyco/manuta steamer. i heard you say put alcohol on the commutator and i was oh no fire yikes lol
SMT - I found a sewing pin works great to clean the slots between commutator plates. I was wondering about the brass bearings on either side of the worm gears; does the lube placed on a worm gear end up lubricating the brass bearing & drive shaft?
You should blindfold yourself and see if you can put a loco back together like the soldiers do with their guns. Maybe it’ll start trending as the SMT challenge.
Should of removed the main brass power bar at the top and replaced it with a soldered wire from each truck to the motor. Those clips always fail on turns and stuff.
I've done that mod on some of my engines, I just thought it didn't make much of a difference in this case and it also makes it harder to open in the future.
I hope you can help me I have 2 Athearn Bluebox Locomotives 1 is an FP45 and the other is an F45 when I took the 2 apart to clean and Lubricate them I cant get the Headlight mounts to stay on them anymore what can I do?
1) forget having a front headlight; 2) take the clip off at the front of the frame that holds lightbulb like Harrison did. Cut the section off that the buld currently secures to. Then make a new right angle 90 degree bend in the steel (just like it was before the cut) and drill a hole just big enough to slide the bulb in it from the center of the loco moving foward but small enough so it catches the "rim" at the botton of the bulb casing. Then while the clip is facing downward with the bulb sitting it in, solder two small points of the bulb to the clip at that rim. 1 on each side or 1 solder point up and 1 down. Put it back on the loco, pressing down the tabs on the front that old the clip to the frame and then solder a fine wire from the foot contact in the bottom center of the bulb to either the metal tab on the truck in the front or to the big spring clip that goes over the top of the motor. (I typically remove those big spring clips and save em in a box). Hope this help. Ask any questions that you need to.
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Thanks for helping keep this hobby alive, I'm 49 and stared collecting again, building up a huge collection for retirement so I can play with trains for the rest of my life when I do retire. Great video also, I need to lube my Athearn's they are all from the 70's. Also Tyco's and Bachmann's....
That locomotive is a Fairbanks-Morse H-24-66
Railfan Center known by everyone as a train master
i just bought one for 22$ in a N&W paint scheme
Favorite UA-camr. Keep up the good work!
Nickel-Silver is another way of saying it's made from Bauxite (Aluminum), that said nice Fairbanks Morse Trainmaster.
I’ve been cleaning the Commutator for about an hour now and it’s still coming off on the paper towel as black as it was when I started. What should I do?
Same
Same thing is happening with me too.
Yeah
When are u going to buy new o gauge Lionel engine for your train
How the hell u know how to do stuff like this to a engine man u are really good at this great view
Part 4 of free lot cmon man ive been waiting all spring break
Did u know that atlas makes a cleaner for cleaning the comutator
Did u know throwing a locomotive hard onto a hard surface it can stay in one peice SMT you should try it P.S Its how you make the scrap yard
Wow u are a funny guy
Athearn has never returned any of the several e-mails I sent in the last month. I had questions for them about the first two locomotives I bought from them. One pulses at low speed, the other has a loud motor noise. One part had broken off and was not in the box. I wanted to get a replacement part. What terrible customer service!
hello what european hitch i can install on athearn models thank you very much likes 👍
Depends on your preference, when I had a fairly decent model railroad, I found you could modify any model locomotive with any coupler.
Young Man you are nothin but A PRO, I'm need you do this to all 19 locomotives I've got mostly Athearns but I've also got a few SD 80s, and 90s in katos, and a couple bachmans, THANKS FOR SHARING THIS WITH me ✌️😉👍 more please 😊
Athearn never upgraded their trainmasters the kept making them in the old early 70s style
Nice I like the video. I can’t use the info but a great video idea for beginners. I’ll let any beginners I know about this awesome vid. 👍
Awsome restoration Video! I usually expect the plastic on my locomotives to be more brittle or weaker than I should. Always surprises me when I take off the shell in a weird way and nothing cracks. Definitely proves that you really do get what you pay for when buying locomotives.
Athearn blue box locomotives both with and with out flywheels were relatively simple and durable drives.
The one on the video is an early FM. It has zinc flywheels. Later production had brass flywheels. The bodies came in two styles. The one in the video is an SP version with train number boards and SP style Mars lite housing. The other body style was simpler.
It should last a long time with little to no maintenance. I've had one for 40 years thereabouts. I think I purchased it around 1980.
Nice SP Trainmaster, the old Athearns were great.
Have been out of the hobby for several years and finally getting back into it. Have a couple Atherns of this vintage and just bought about 20 more. Im going to have a lot of maintenance to catch up on
Great idea to use alcohol to clean the commetator(?). With so many locomotives I have of Athearns with the brass motor and flywheel type, I Begun keeping a log of what I did to my engines. That way I can go back to see the time and date and decide if they need more help.
Comutator rather than commentator, just making sure you know.
@@michaelmckinnon7314 thanks. I didn't know how to spell ir.
Oooo southern Pacific me likey
Great video I will do this on my athearn locomotives
Awesome job Harrison you always have been doing a good job and I hope you have an awesome day
Beautiful video!, its possible proto 2000 maintenance? jaja.
Regards from Argentina.
Always keep those Sintered wheel sets, they allow much more traction than the current Nickle silver sets at the cost of more cleaning. You get much more pulling power too with the old Sintered wheels. Save em if you replace them as they are sought after due to cracking easily when launched off tables lol.
I just need to grab one of my older, DC loco's that's hardly ever used, cleaning supplies, and watch your videos as I'm cleaning it! Then pop over to 2448toyman's channel and watch how he does a hard wire decoder and sound decoder and speaker install and just follow along! It might take me a few days or a week to do 1 loco, but it would be cheaper than mailing it to someone! RH
That's what makes the community fantastic, there is almost always someone who can help in any field in the hobby because they focus on that part. I've learned so much more in the two years on youtube then the other ten years I been in the hobby.
I like the alcohol trick👍
Hello my friend I like what you do, Can you tell me what grease that you use? Thank you 🚂😉🦜
It sounds great . My Athearns are loud...guess they need servicing
Are you going to see the Union Pacific Big Boy in Utah
i never seen an athearn having a motor like that. i know i have 1 f7 locomotive looks similar but the motor is totally different . must be vintage vs the one i have. but also mine is like 5 or so years old rarely run but when i have pulls great takes very little volts to move it vs the bachmann one and vintage tyco/manuta steamer. i heard you say put alcohol on the commutator and i was oh no fire yikes lol
SMT - I found a sewing pin works great to clean the slots between commutator plates. I was wondering about the brass bearings on either side of the worm gears; does the lube placed on a worm gear end up lubricating the brass bearing & drive shaft?
Just seen this one pop up on my UA-cam list. How much younger you look!
Excellent and informative. Keep up the good work. Athearn Trainmasters are a favorite of which I have collected many over the years.
I just bought one exactly like this one today still on the box for $20...
SMT mailine nice find! Bought an alco S4 yesterday for $10!
I replace the motor mounts to the hard plastic and screws.
You should blindfold yourself and see if you can put a loco back together like the soldiers do with their guns. Maybe it’ll start trending as the SMT challenge.
I'd be interested to see if I could on an athearn.
What type of loco is that
a fairbanks morse train master
Those have to be some of the biggest flywheels I have ever seen on an HO locomotive!
I find your maintenance and repair videos are very helpful.
Should of removed the main brass power bar at the top and replaced it with a soldered wire from each truck to the motor. Those clips always fail on turns and stuff.
I've done that mod on some of my engines, I just thought it didn't make much of a difference in this case and it also makes it harder to open in the future.
Just got back from that train show with some good stuff
Frame looks bent.
Do you not have an NMRA (wheel) Gauge?
I do now but I didn't when this video was made.
Well Harrison, here you are, working on a locomotive identical to the one that was in my original train set. Good job keeping it going!
Great video!
yure cool
Hello- SMT Good Video Greetings from Argentina
Great video thank you for sharing!
Smt is it possible you can get on discord tonight
Im going to a train show today
Fairbanks trainmaster
Nice
Smt locos break when hits floor my loco hits floor does nothing to it
How big of a consitst can these locomotives pull without any problems?
I hope you can help me I have 2 Athearn Bluebox Locomotives 1 is an FP45 and the other is an F45 when I took the 2 apart to clean and Lubricate them I cant get the Headlight mounts to stay on them anymore what can I do?
1) forget having a front headlight; 2) take the clip off at the front of the frame that holds lightbulb like Harrison did. Cut the section off that the buld currently secures to. Then make a new right angle 90 degree bend in the steel (just like it was before the cut) and drill a hole just big enough to slide the bulb in it from the center of the loco moving foward but small enough so it catches the "rim" at the botton of the bulb casing. Then while the clip is facing downward with the bulb sitting it in, solder two small points of the bulb to the clip at that rim. 1 on each side or 1 solder point up and 1 down. Put it back on the loco, pressing down the tabs on the front that old the clip to the frame and then solder a fine wire from the foot contact in the bottom center of the bulb to either the metal tab on the truck in the front or to the big spring clip that goes over the top of the motor. (I typically remove those big spring clips and save em in a box). Hope this help. Ask any questions that you need to.