About time you changed all the filters and fluids on this tractor, The lever under the seat which is moved forward and backwards is called a spool valve which operates your auxiliary hydraulics,
Hello Mark, Try looking at the center plate for your rims and see if it is mounted on the outside of the rim lugs, this may make it narrower, might have to turn bolt heads around, but study a bit on that plate position. It seems really wide.
Never had that problem on my 5000 (knock on wood) but on my 641 Ford workmaster I often had to loosen an allen plug out of the oil pump to bleed the air out. Your 5000 must be setup very wide, mine is 7 feet from outside of one rear tire to the other.
I'm sorry this question has nothing to do with the subject of this video, but is that a Yamaha Venture Royale outside the garage???? Great job keeping that bike looking as nice as it does. It was truly a bike far ahead of it's time. Without doubt, the most advanced and well engineered touring bike the Japanese offered in the late 70s and early 80s. Great job with the Ford 5000 as well. I am really enjoying your channel. I just discovered you a week ago and subscribed after the first video of you working on the front end of your Ford.
Thanks! Yes it's a 1984 Yamaha Venture 1200, not the Royale unfortunately! I have 2, the blue one is in the best shape, all original plastic and engine, the other bike is for larts... It really is a great bike, it has 84k miles and still runs strong! Real comfortable bike. Thanks! I'm glad someone appreciates some of my toys hiding in the background.
My 1966 does the same thing! Got it last year, as old as I am. Checked oil level, good, but looked milky. Right or wrong, going to change out the fluid this spring and see what happens. Have all the original manuals, they don't say where there are filters on it. Just says to take it to a dealership for that.
The hydraulic filter is inside the rear axle case. It's a bit of a chore to do! There is a strainer filter and a hydraulic filter. Try doing a fluid swap first to get the fluid cleaned up (run it like that for a while) before you drain the fluid and change the filter. You don't want to replace the filter twice.
On my ford 3000 there is two hydraulic filters located under the top lid 3 point cover. One is easy to remover the other one is super hard to remove. We just drained all the hyd oil out cleaned the filters with diesel fuel or kerosene Filters ended up looking like brand new. Down fall to this I think some dirt and junk ended up getting sucked into return line into Hyd pump because pump is now weak..We should have broken loose the return line at the pump and cleaned out that line also.....
My Ford 5000 does the same thing. It usually takes awhile for the three point hydraulics to work. I see folks below have noted to clean the filter screen. Did you try that? I’ll try that next. Very frustrating. Feeding hay tonight and it never worked the entire time. Normally it only takes a minute or two for it to start working. Any help is appreciated.
From what I've experienced, it's a combination of hydraulic check valve leaking when it sits, and that suction filter. I got lucky. Changed fluids, the hydraulic oil was very watered down, must have been from sitting for so long. I have been using it with a 6' rotary cutter, seems to go well. I still need to change the internal filter, am going to do that in the off season (it's quite a job to get to the filter). Mine still does the hesitation when first started, but works fine after. Annoying, but I've been able to live with it so far.
The "waiting" is caused by a bypass valve sticking. There is a low pressure on the free oil flow circuit from pump through the filter back to the transmission case. The "backpressure" valve in the end of the hydraulic filter tube.That low pressure pushes the bypass valve to the lifting position when you move the control valve, until the position linkage returns the free flow mode back. Sometimes a hydraulic fluid type change causes that, some oils soften and swell the O-rings. One of my 4 Ford 5000's from 1971 has occasionally done that from new, the other 3 never. I haven't done anything to that because the tractor is very original and works well. Usually the sticking happens with cold oil. I think the service manuals told us to remove the seal from the bypass valve; it still works but doesn't stick anymore. You can avoid the waiting in the morning by stopping the tractor while lifting the linkage. You can return the lever down later. The bypass valve stays in the lifting position. After one movement it works the whole day flawlessly.
Thanks for the info I'll have to give that a try! It has been working better without as much wait, not sure what direction I'll go in, removing the lift ram cover is an off season thing, I'll have to wait for
I was thinking the low fluid levels weren't allowing the pump to prime itself. Never thought about a bypass valve. Guess that's why I keep reading the comments and learning...
Almost certain it's a sticky unloader valve. I have the same exact frustrating experience. I left the O-ring off of the unloader valve. It all works excellent now
@Mark Tolman yes the lid must come off. But that is the hardest part about the whole deal. If you can't find the exact correct o'ring just leave it off. It was made out of a special material and a regular o-ring will cause the same problem over again. But a Ford garage might have the correct o-ring. Polish the O-ring using WD-40 and a green scrubby pad from Walmart. Never any type of abrasive, even super super fine, it will wreck the tolerances. Here's a decent video that shows a bit about it. Good luck. ua-cam.com/video/Ble9ISKk1XY/v-deo.html
According to tractordata.com, the hydraulic system holds 8.7 gallons. I believe that a fluid swap may take a bit less, as you wont be able to get all the fluid out by draining...The manual transmission holds 10.8 qts, or 2.70 gallons.
The 1966 book says 34.8 quarts for hydraulic and 19 quarts for the 8 speed transmission. Changed my fluids last summer and used pretty much that amount. Dealer sold me 20 gallons of NH 134 because of the loader I have but did not use more.
@@danjosephson8820 From 1968 on the gearbox oil level was lowered. You have a oil level plug on you tractor, the Force models have a dipstick on the filler plug.
Hello Mark, have you found the problem on your ford 5000? Mine makes the same hissing noise when accelerating. I thought it was a hydraulic pump problem.
Luckily for me, new fluid and it's been going great. What I've messed with in the video seem to do the trick , I have yet to see more issues with it. I still have yet to change the internal filter, but I suspect that will be soon.
I ended up taking the plastic cover off (it takes a small machine screw with a flat head), exposing the small metal lock, looks like half a moon, or a glad hand connection. Thread in a longer 1/4 x 20 bolt, so it sticks out of the trans housing. Then I used a small prybar to pull it gently....that connects inside, to the hydraulic spool control...
Hydraulic filter may be dirty or clogged. Not sure if that model has a spin on filter or internal filter cartridge. Clean hydraulic fluid and filter should be the ticket.
@@marktolman6037 Internal filter. The lift cover has to be lifted up. You raise the cover a couple of inches and you can see a thick steel tube in the middle of the cover, pointing down through the transmission case. You have to help it out from the transmission case by wiggling the cover while raising. You will find the filter element at the end of the tube. Usually it is smashed rather badly either when installing the cover or lifting the cover. After you have seen the exact place, you are able to be careful and avoid the damage. It is a paper element, you have to screw out the back pressure valve before you can loosen the filter. So the filter is immersed in oil, near the ol reservoir bottom. The suction screen is on the pump side, also attached to a curved steel tube. You take the pump out, the screen comes through the same hole easily. Usually it is very fine plastic screen, I have washed it with a suitable cleaning agent and very soft toothbrush. Then you look through it with a bright lamp. Replace if holes are found.
@@marktolman6037 haven't noticed it getting worse but I'm doing the rear axle seals now to try and keep the oil in the back end I can then see if it works better
Here are some ideas...check your hydraulic fluid condition and level. If it's not that easy, check 3 pt. hitch lever, make sure it's still connected to the valve it moves up and down. If it's nothing obvious or external, chances are you have to open up the tractor. Either you aren't picking up fluid, or the pump isn't pumping...best of luck.
there is a strainer in the hydrogen pump that not many people ever clean out and that causes the lift to be slow so i say if u clean that strainer it would fix that problem
My rear hydraulics aren’t working. My knobs were seized and got them unstuck… could that be why? The handle is loose that’s under the seat. Trying to learn, because I’m new to this tractor
@@marktolman6037 yes. Both. My tractor is literally a clone of yours. I need to know if mine is a single or dual remote valve body as well. My 3 point doesn’t raise or anything now. The bucket won’t raise unless the handle is in the right position
The selector valve could be to blame, and there is also a speed knob which can be played with...selector valve should be all the way in...but I would check oil pickup if you are not getting any action at all, after you check all the easy stuff (like oil level, handle positions and remote valve functions). Oil pickup requires the removal of the trans cover....not a fun job. Always start with the easy stuff first. Do you have any flow to the remotes at all? Could just be low on fluid
@@marktolman6037 haven’t checked the fluid level. Which should’ve been first. I’ll do that. My power steering is a SOB to turn left and easy to turn right. As well… smh
The Ford 5000 is one of my favorite tractors . I might suggest you should never run a tractor hydraulic system with water in it ! Drain & flush the system & refill with the correct fluid .
Thanks. At the time, I didn't know what was causing the issues with the transmission. I didn't want to waste new fluid if I was going to be draining it out again shortly after.
@@marktolman6037 the only time I ever used it was when mowing hay. When I inherited my farm from my dad in 2000 I made a lot of hay with them. A 2600 is a great rake/ted tractor and ‘77 6700 to pull a Ghel baler. I bought a few more larger ‘70’s models later on and completely rebuilt them. I love Ford tractors! I now farm with Fendt’s but The Ford tractors are really special to me. I have all the orig manuals including the shop ones. I’ll look that up to make sure I’m right.
@@zfilmmaker That sounds like it was a great lineup! These classic Fords are great, they never die, just keep getting rebuilt and passed on to new owners! Thanks for the info.
About time you changed all the filters and fluids on this tractor, The lever under the seat which is moved forward and backwards is called a spool valve which operates your auxiliary hydraulics,
Thanks. I still don't have anything to use those hydraulics with yet. Maybe someday soon!
I've just watched all the videos of your ford 5000 restoration work. I've really enjoyed them, great videos and a great tractor. Nice one.
Thank you! It's been a fun series, getting this one running and working again, after a long hibernation!
Hello Mark,
Try looking at the center plate for your rims and see if it is mounted on the outside of the rim lugs, this may make it narrower, might have to turn bolt heads around, but study a bit on that plate position. It seems really wide.
My 5000 had the same issue. I pushed down on it with the excavator and it’s been mint ever since
Nice! Seems to do the trick
How to replace the front wheel studs for Ford 5000 tractor,what causes hydraulic oil looks milky and what causes hydraulic lift not working?
Never had that problem on my 5000 (knock on wood) but on my 641 Ford workmaster I often had to loosen an allen plug out of the oil pump to bleed the air out. Your 5000 must be setup very wide, mine is 7 feet from outside of one rear tire to the other.
Interesting....things to think about...Yes the outside of the rear tires measures about 7'9". It seems very stable, should be pretty sure footed....
Leave the 3 point down at night as it will be letting air in overnight
I'm sorry this question has nothing to do with the subject of this video, but is that a Yamaha Venture Royale outside the garage???? Great job keeping that bike looking as nice as it does. It was truly a bike far ahead of it's time. Without doubt, the most advanced and well engineered touring bike the Japanese offered in the late 70s and early 80s.
Great job with the Ford 5000 as well. I am really enjoying your channel. I just discovered you a week ago and subscribed after the first video of you working on the front end of your Ford.
Thanks! Yes it's a 1984 Yamaha Venture 1200, not the Royale unfortunately! I have 2, the blue one is in the best shape, all original plastic and engine, the other bike is for larts... It really is a great bike, it has 84k miles and still runs strong! Real comfortable bike. Thanks! I'm glad someone appreciates some of my toys hiding in the background.
My 1966 does the same thing! Got it last year, as old as I am. Checked oil level, good, but looked milky. Right or wrong, going to change out the fluid this spring and see what happens. Have all the original manuals, they don't say where there are filters on it. Just says to take it to a dealership for that.
The hydraulic filter is inside the rear axle case. It's a bit of a chore to do! There is a strainer filter and a hydraulic filter. Try doing a fluid swap first to get the fluid cleaned up (run it like that for a while) before you drain the fluid and change the filter. You don't want to replace the filter twice.
On my ford 3000 there is two hydraulic filters located under the top lid 3 point cover. One is easy to remover the other one is super hard to remove. We just drained all the hyd oil out cleaned the filters with diesel fuel or kerosene Filters ended up looking like brand new. Down fall to this I think some dirt and junk ended up getting sucked into return line into Hyd pump because pump is now weak..We should have broken loose the return line at the pump and cleaned out that line also.....
My Ford 5000 does the same thing. It usually takes awhile for the three point hydraulics to work. I see folks below have noted to clean the filter screen. Did you try that? I’ll try that next.
Very frustrating. Feeding hay tonight and it never worked the entire time. Normally it only takes a minute or two for it to start working.
Any help is appreciated.
From what I've experienced, it's a combination of hydraulic check valve leaking when it sits, and that suction filter. I got lucky. Changed fluids, the hydraulic oil was very watered down, must have been from sitting for so long. I have been using it with a 6' rotary cutter, seems to go well. I still need to change the internal filter, am going to do that in the off season (it's quite a job to get to the filter). Mine still does the hesitation when first started, but works fine after. Annoying, but I've been able to live with it so far.
they have many other videos about various issues one might run into
The "waiting" is caused by a bypass valve sticking. There is a low pressure on the free oil flow circuit from pump through the filter back to the transmission case. The "backpressure" valve in the end of the hydraulic filter tube.That low pressure pushes the bypass valve to the lifting position when you move the control valve, until the position linkage returns the free flow mode back. Sometimes a hydraulic fluid type change causes that, some oils soften and swell the O-rings. One of my 4 Ford 5000's from 1971 has occasionally done that from new, the other 3 never. I haven't done anything to that because the tractor is very original and works well. Usually the sticking happens with cold oil. I think the service manuals told us to remove the seal from the bypass valve; it still works but doesn't stick anymore.
You can avoid the waiting in the morning by stopping the tractor while lifting the linkage. You can return the lever down later. The bypass valve stays in the lifting position. After one movement it works the whole day flawlessly.
Thanks for the info I'll have to give that a try! It has been working better without as much wait, not sure what direction I'll go in, removing the lift ram cover is an off season thing, I'll have to wait for
I was thinking the low fluid levels weren't allowing the pump to prime itself. Never thought about a bypass valve.
Guess that's why I keep reading the comments and learning...
Almost certain it's a sticky unloader valve. I have the same exact frustrating experience. I left the O-ring off of the unloader valve. It all works excellent now
Thanks. How big of a job to get to the unloaded valve? Did you have to pull the top cover (lift arms) off?
@Mark Tolman yes the lid must come off. But that is the hardest part about the whole deal. If you can't find the exact correct o'ring just leave it off. It was made out of a special material and a regular o-ring will cause the same problem over again. But a Ford garage might have the correct o-ring. Polish the O-ring using WD-40 and a green scrubby pad from Walmart. Never any type of abrasive, even super super fine, it will wreck the tolerances. Here's a decent video that shows a bit about it. Good luck. ua-cam.com/video/Ble9ISKk1XY/v-deo.html
@@calvinkalmon6746 Awesome. Thanks!
And I meant to say polish the valve with the green scrubby. Throw the O-ring away.
@@calvinkalmon6746 I'll give this a try next...
Can I buy this tractor it can be of great help to us , and the local community here in Kenya.
How many gallons of hydraulic fluid does the Ford 5000 take? I'm planning to flush both the hydraulic and trans fluids soon.
According to tractordata.com, the hydraulic system holds 8.7 gallons. I believe that a fluid swap may take a bit less, as you wont be able to get all the fluid out by draining...The manual transmission holds 10.8 qts, or 2.70 gallons.
The 1966 book says 34.8 quarts for hydraulic and 19 quarts for the 8 speed transmission. Changed my fluids last summer and used pretty much that amount. Dealer sold me 20 gallons of NH 134 because of the loader I have but did not use more.
@@danjosephson8820 From 1968 on the gearbox oil level was lowered. You have a oil level plug on you tractor, the Force models have a dipstick on the filler plug.
The 40-second delay is due to a sticky unloader valve. Just clean it well, buff it, but don't sand it.
Hello Mark, have you found the problem on your ford 5000?
Mine makes the same hissing noise when accelerating.
I thought it was a hydraulic pump problem.
Luckily for me, new fluid and it's been going great. What I've messed with in the video seem to do the trick , I have yet to see more issues with it. I still have yet to change the internal filter, but I suspect that will be soon.
Using a chain instead of a top link is dangerous because if the cutter hits an immovable object the tailwheel can flip right at the back of your head.
That's a very good point, I'll make sure change it out. I used a chain at the time of the video because I didnt have a cat II toplink... thanks.
Check the filter on the hydraulic or it may have a screen to clean.
How did you get the selector valve unstuck? Mine is stuck and I have had no luck getting it free.
I ended up taking the plastic cover off (it takes a small machine screw with a flat head), exposing the small metal lock, looks like half a moon, or a glad hand connection. Thread in a longer 1/4 x 20 bolt, so it sticks out of the trans housing. Then I used a small prybar to pull it gently....that connects inside, to the hydraulic spool control...
Took a little persuasion to get it free, just work back and forth, if it moves out, press it back in until it moves freely
@@marktolman6037 Awesome! I took it apart but didn't think of putting a longer bolt in. Thank You!
Absolutely, best of luck!
Rusty valves in cover or pump control
Hey, I have the same 5000. Where can I find a top link? I need one cause mine is going into mowing duty
Tractor Supply has the category 2 top links, as well as the local kubota, new holland, john deere or any other tractor dealers.
@@marktolman6037 alright didn’t know if it was specific to the tractor, thanks a lot man!
@@thatranger92 Absolutely! Best of luck mowing
thx
Got the same tractor front loader wont raise any thoughts?
Is it only the up function that doesnt work? Does the bucket dump?
Thanks for responding got it all fixed bad pump
Good to head it's back in action.
Hydraulic filter may be dirty or clogged. Not sure if that model has a spin on filter or internal filter cartridge. Clean hydraulic fluid and filter should be the ticket.
Must be an internal filter....none on the outside of housing. Thanks, I'll do some digging..
@@marktolman6037 Internal filter. The lift cover has to be lifted up. You raise the cover a couple of inches and you can see a thick steel tube in the middle of the cover, pointing down through the transmission case. You have to help it out from the transmission case by wiggling the cover while raising. You will find the filter element at the end of the tube. Usually it is smashed rather badly either when installing the cover or lifting the cover. After you have seen the exact place, you are able to be careful and avoid the damage. It is a paper element, you have to screw out the back pressure valve before you can loosen the filter. So the filter is immersed in oil, near the ol reservoir bottom. The suction screen is on the pump side, also attached to a curved steel tube. You take the pump out, the screen comes through the same hole easily. Usually it is very fine plastic screen, I have washed it with a suitable cleaning agent and very soft toothbrush. Then you look through it with a bright lamp. Replace if holes are found.
@@sarkisi Thanks for the grear info, sounds like what is causing my problems...I'll make the repair at some point in the near future
My 4000 has a similar problem with the hydraulic lift but I just thought it was lack of oil
The problem never got any worse?
@@marktolman6037 haven't noticed it getting worse but I'm doing the rear axle seals now to try and keep the oil in the back end I can then see if it works better
Be interesting to see if your problem is cured with the proper level of oil in your case..., or if it makes no difference
@@marktolman6037 yes hope it will. It's actually a ford 4000 bit like your ford 5000
Very similar!
A david brown incredible
David brown 1212. Handy tractor
Mine not lifting at all... what could be the problem
Here are some ideas...check your hydraulic fluid condition and level. If it's not that easy, check 3 pt. hitch lever, make sure it's still connected to the valve it moves up and down. If it's nothing obvious or external, chances are you have to open up the tractor. Either you aren't picking up fluid, or the pump isn't pumping...best of luck.
there is a strainer in the hydrogen pump that not many people ever clean out and that causes the lift to be slow so i say if u clean that strainer it would fix that problem
Thanks, ill give that a try
My rear hydraulics aren’t working. My knobs were seized and got them unstuck… could that be why? The handle is loose that’s under the seat. Trying to learn, because I’m new to this tractor
When you say rear hydraulics, are you referring to the remotes or the 3 point hitch?
@@marktolman6037 yes. Both. My tractor is literally a clone of yours. I need to know if mine is a single or dual remote valve body as well. My 3 point doesn’t raise or anything now. The bucket won’t raise unless the handle is in the right position
The selector valve could be to blame, and there is also a speed knob which can be played with...selector valve should be all the way in...but I would check oil pickup if you are not getting any action at all, after you check all the easy stuff (like oil level, handle positions and remote valve functions). Oil pickup requires the removal of the trans cover....not a fun job. Always start with the easy stuff first. Do you have any flow to the remotes at all? Could just be low on fluid
@@marktolman6037 haven’t checked the fluid level. Which should’ve been first. I’ll do that. My power steering is a SOB to turn left and easy to turn right. As well… smh
Always start with the easy to check stuff first!
I need this Ford so much for my farm , Who can help me please?
you have a filter that is kluged
The Ford 5000 is one of my favorite tractors . I might suggest you should never run a tractor hydraulic system with water in it ! Drain & flush the system & refill with the correct fluid .
Thanks. At the time, I didn't know what was causing the issues with the transmission. I didn't want to waste new fluid if I was going to be draining it out again shortly after.
Helo my 5000 tractor is giving me progem with the hydraulic
The valve you pulled out controls hydraulic pressure.
Any idea what changes it makes to the pressures?
@@marktolman6037 on my ‘72 4100 it’s kinda like high flow but it’s not a true high flow. It goes from min-max.
@@zfilmmaker Interesting...I'll have to experiment with that valve...thanks.
@@marktolman6037 the only time I ever used it was when mowing hay. When I inherited my farm from my dad in 2000 I made a lot of hay with them. A 2600 is a great rake/ted tractor and ‘77 6700 to pull a Ghel baler. I bought a few more larger ‘70’s models later on and completely rebuilt them. I love Ford tractors! I now farm with Fendt’s but The Ford tractors are really special to me. I have all the orig manuals including the shop ones. I’ll look that up to make sure I’m right.
@@zfilmmaker That sounds like it was a great lineup! These classic Fords are great, they never die, just keep getting rebuilt and passed on to new owners! Thanks for the info.
gee just add oil.... here is your sign.. its the hydraulic valve selector
change the hydraulic filter. internal
Por favor en español
Maybe subtitles can help?