This video and all of the others in this set are beyond excellent!! You are a natural instructor and fantastic teacher. Thanks for sharing your extensive talents and expertise.
Your videos are A+. Seriously great content. I will send people to this channel. You have put your heart and soul into what you do and your videos pay testament. Thanks for your hard work.
Real good I have worked on a lot of Ford lift cover tops and massy top when I worked at a massy dealership you did a real good job the only thing I see is when I put the lift arms on the lift shaft doing all the final adjustments I had a Ford lift cover tool kit when you had the lift arms measuring over to the wall with your tape measure in the tool kit was a bracket that bolted to the lift cover with two bolts it bolted right over the lift shaft where the shaft came out of the cover top all you did then was to lift the.lift arms all the way up it had a rod you would slid throw the two holes at the end of the lift arm thin you would slid it into the hole in bracket if everything was alright the rod would slid freely in and out the hole in the bracket this bracket is part of the Ford lift cover tool kit with the lift arms all the way up the rod slid in to holes of the lift arm an bracket everything is held in the right position to do a Ford top notch bar none adjustments if you have a problem you will be able to find it and fix it take it to the.fielf and get the job done you did a good job young fellow the best i seen yet
I've seen that tool in the manual. I tried making one using measurements I found online and it was wrong. I keep my eyes out for one so maybe one day I'll have one. Thanks for the comment too.
I don't know if you did it but slightly rounding and polishing the leading edge of the spool valve with a fine emery cloth will help prevent galling and seizing of the parts.
Great tutorial , I've got too much pressure on a 70 4000 , pumps keep leaking after kiting them , I already replaced the lower pressure relief down by the pick up tube , I had this top cover apart , it wasn't stuck , could it still be something to do with those check valves in the cover ?
Thanks for your help with this kind of work. Of all the UA-cam tutorials, yours are the most complete. I have run into a problem with my position control adjustment. The control valve position just won't go small enough for the spec. gap. I can only get it to about 0.50 and should be smaller. I noticed you had no trouble like that with yours. It seems like a problem of the spring on the position control rod not having enough force to overcome the opposing strength of the spring on the control valve. If I back off on the baffle plate bolts to take some of that spring pressure away, the control valve moves closer and the gap can be set. I put new springs in both places so the springs are at their correct tensions I assume. It might be the linkage is worn and causes the rod to hang up near the very end of its travel. I'm wondering if adding washers to the ends of the spring might increase the tension enough to get it up to what it needs to be to overcome the hangup. Any thoughts? Roberts Tractor does have salvaged parts that I could use but I'm not sure they'd be all that much better than what I've got already. Your advice is appreciated.
My first thought when reading your comment is, is the spring in the control valve coil binding since you said if you loosen the baffle plate on the cylinder it allows enough room for the position to be set. I don't think adding washers would help you any unless you put them between the plate and cylinder but that may have negative effects on operation. Did you change the cam follower pin? That only contacts the cam during position control and can cause the measurements to be off. I noticed on my position spring there is a washer there which i do not see in the parts manual. You could try adding a washer there to see if it helps.
@@chickenhousemechanic I tried two washers first on the position spring rod. Increased the spring tension to more than enough. Reduced to one and it seemed pretty much to spec. Able to set the gap now. I think the linkage is worn and the originally designed spring tension is now just a little too low to overcome the binding that occurs from things not being exactly lined up to factory specs. Thanks very much for your help.
Outstanding videos!! Quick question that I don't find many addressing is the flow valve located in the front of the cover unit. Removed the cap and spring (in pieces) attempted to remove the valve with 3/8-24 bolt but unable to remove at all. Another channel only mentions if you can't remove it just leave it, but no information on it's function or what takes place if it doesn't move at all. Any guidance would be greatly helpful. Thank you
The valve you are talking about, one with the 3/8 thread, ins't technically a valve. I think I refer to it as a spool valve but it's actually just a plug that looks like a valve, hence the reason it has to be pulled out and pressed in. As for the function of the other two valves in that port, the first one is the check valve. It functions to hold oil in the lift cylinder and hold the arms lifted and only works when you raise the lift. The 2nd valve behind the plug is the back pressure valve. It's purpose is to maintain a low oil pressure for positioning the unload valve in the cylinder, I show that in one of my other videos. Both valves are closed when the lift is in neutral, not raising or lowering. However when the pressure in front of the back pressure valve reaches a cerain value the valve will open allowing oil to bypass and return to the reservoir. On the other hand the check valve will open at 115 psi during the lifting procedure to allow oil to flow around it into the lift cyclinder. That's kind of a summary of it. The large red service manual explains it more in depth and has a few oil flow drawings to help make sense of it.
I just finished servicing the top cover on my 850 yesterday but I didn't go as in-depth as you did. The issue I was trying to address was that when I am grading my driveway with a back blade the three point doesn't stay set. It slowly settles. It will sag a little bit then jerk up, sag, jerk, etc. I figured it was the o-ring and leather on the piston so I replaced those as well as all the other o-rings in the assembly. One thing I missed, however, was the "valve" that is inside the check valve on the front of the cover. I did pull the check valve out, cleaned it, replaced the o-ring, and re-installed it. I never pulled the inside "valve" out. Could this be the culprit in why my three point settles? By the way, I took it for a test drive on the driveway after I was done working on it and it still settles. Not as bad (maybe) but it still does. Another thing I should mention is that the o-ring kit I bought didn't seem to have the right size for the check valve. It seemed to fit kind of loose in the bore. It doesn't seem like this is much of an issue since the o-ring is basically just a seal here.
A great tutorial went through everything you did and everything seems to be fine but can you use the original accessory plate and tap into it for a hydraulic line just wondering thanks 57:4157:41
Hi again! Do You happen to know what is the bolt thread size on the lift arm center bolt in both ends of the shaft? It's 1/2" thick but Im not familiar with inch threads here in Finland. Your video has been very helpful, my top is almost ready for installation back to Suer Dexta. Only adjustement is not yet done. By the way, the center rocker was so stubborn stuck, so i decided to let it be. Mraning bushings are old and worn....
Hey learning a lot. Got a question. I have fluid and pressure to the top plate enough to make the engine on the tractor to start to load up. When you try to pick up on the lift But my lift still want move at all. I have taken the two valves out of the lift piston cleaned them replaced all the O rings. And put it back together twice. And still nothing other than before the engine didn’t react when up tried to pick the lift up. I do have some fluid trying to come out of auxiliary hydraulics control handle. But the out put of the auxiliary hydraulics are capped off at this time. Any help you can give me would be much appreciated.
I've never had an engine load up when using the 3 point. Sounds to me like the remote hydraulic might be the issue. If you have the original top/block off plate I'd put that on there and try your lift.
Thanks for responding, but I'm looking for the measurements of the filling gauge tool that you made based on the original, the one who didn't remember the measurements at the time, if you have the measurements
I just put my top lid back on I did a rebuild but it’s still self adjusting it’s not as bad but it will still drop and implement just a hair and bring it back up all I done was a piston rebuild and all the other o rings ect any ideas ?
Should the turnbuckle adjustment rod assembly be a rigid link? Mine can move about an inch along the rod that goes to the touch control lever to the spool valve. It seems this should be a fixed connection. Thanks.
I'm assuming you are talking about the arm that the turnbuckle is pinned to. If so then yes it will slide some on a bushing at the end of a spring. In the video at minute 40 you can see the arm and the bushing.
I have a 641, I have rebuilt every part of the hydraulic system to include installing a new pressure and return line. I’m not so happy to say that the arms still will not lift any weight other than themselves. Do you have any thoughts, I’m pulling what’s left of my hair out.
Hard to say really. Did you make sure all parts are in good condition before you adjusted the top cover including a new cam pin? Does the pump produce good pressure? Do you see any leaks when looking into through the pto shifter hole while running tractor? You could have a valve sticking also but I'd check the easy stuff first as there's not really a good way to test the valves themselves.
@@chickenhousemechanic after watching your vids I decided to get another top cover kit of o-rings and start from scratch. As far as the pump, I rebuilt it also but I’m not sure how to check the pressure if one of the relief valves is not holding. The pto cover I’m going to try before pulling it apart again. At least I know the pressure and return lines are good. When I got the tractor the hydraulics were not working and the reservoir had a fair bit of water in it, hence the rusted holes lines that I replaced.
i have a question. is this adjustment setting good for a 861 powermaster? i am assuming that the years you have showing at the top of screen are any ford in those years? any help will be appreciated.thanks
Hi CHM, question, I adjusted the valves for the lift arms, but now they seem to be too low and will not raise my implements high enough to use them, can I reposition just the arms on the splines or are they keyed and sit in only one position
The arms are keyed to the rock shaft with a master spline. Not sure if there's another arm that doesn't have that master spline or not that would allow it to be clocked 1 spline off. Without measuring it, I want to say the lift arms on my 861-D set about 4 inches off the ground when fully lowered and tractor is off.
The first valve installed is the back pressure valve. The service manual says its function is to maintain a low pressure in the system for the unloading valve to work. The 2nd valve is a check valve and is designed to hold oil in left cylinder to hold arms in a raised position. Manual says that valve only operates during a raising cycle. The factory service manual gives operating principles on the systems if you'd like more detailed descriptions. Way too much to type and it's probably copyrighted as well.
Hi CHM and thank you for guiding me and so many others with problems we encounter when rebuilding and repairing our old Fords. You make these jobs so much more enjoyable knowing you are a few clicks away. One question, while underneath my 1955 Ford 600 I noitced an odd shaped plate at the bottom of the transmission case with five bolts (I'm sorry I could not attach a photo). What is on the other side? Thanks again.
Not sure which transmission you have but the 5 speed transmission has a square plate near the front of the transmission that has 4 bolts and a cotter pin in it. Thats just an inspection plate. Don't think the 4 speed has that. On the rear end center section there is a plate with 5 bolts that houses the hydraulic pressure relief valve. I show that plate and valve in this video. m.ua-cam.com/video/wQNwAeqj1Jk/v-deo.html
Many thanks for your great advice...you have made my 600 project much more fun. And, now that the engine is running, the hydraulics work great thanks to the guidance in your videos. Almost ready to get to work.
Hi,, what would cause the lift to bounce up and down when A load is on it etc,, @ raised position kinda jurks like it's releasing oil/pressure inside ? I've rebuild the lift,, New pump,, relief valve,, o ring on piston replaced also! Thanks John
Usually jerking is air in system or too thick of oil since you've rebuilt everything. If you didn't have it rebuilt I'd say check for leaking cylinder o-rings.
One of the two springs for the check valve that you assembled right away in the video is broken for me. The outermost. Any ideas? I cannot find it anywhere and cannot measure it for a McMaster one because a small part of it is gone
Looks like they're available from New holland and a couple aftermarket suppliers but they're not cheap. Salvage yard might be best route. I don't have any laying around to measure to see about generic springs. The parts numbers are NCA962B and NCA645A. Also check ebay. Some guys sell the internal parts of the hydraulic top covers and a striped cover that might have good springs in them.
Nice work mate, I’m following you while I’m fixing my own, I noticed that the measurements you had when adjusting your lift worked well for you but when I attempted to get the same clearance it would run out of range. Are the measurements different on the older dexta’s? Thanks for your time.
Not sure if the shaft is the same or not. I'd say they're pretty close though. Best way to remove a stuck arm is heat and a 2 jaw puller. A puller with the link rod between the arm works best since you can tighten the rod to help the arms of the puller stay onto what you're pulling. Spraying some rust penetrant onto the splines will also help.
@@chickenhousemechanic The exterior arms in your video do look same as mine. But there is nowhere for puller to grab on to. Have used penetrating oil and probably will need heat to remove. Thanks.
@@mozit6 yeah there's not much room to get a puller behind them. You'll have to really force the jaws behind them. Maybe even hammer the jaw in. Once one of them starts to move there should be enough play to get behind both of them.
Since the arms lift I'd say it's probably an adjustment issue. I've not worked on a hydraulic system on one of those tractors so I can't tell you exactly what may be out of adjustment.
Thanks. Glad I could help. As for the clutch I have multiple videos that show me taking the clutch out for a select-o-speed and then reinstalling a dual stage clutch. One video has me changing the flywheel ring gear and installing the dual stage clutch onto the engine. I dont really have a step-by-step video though.
There are probably videos out there explaining it. I do not have one. The simplest way to explain draft is allowing the inplement to float across the ground when the tractor goes up hill and down hill vs the implement. The more detailed version version is when the implement meets more resistance the implement tends to pitch forward at the top and that pushes on the top link and the rocker assembly. That in turn causes the spool valve inside the lift cylinder to move and makes the lift rise slightly on its own to pull the implement out of the ground and overcome the resistance it is facing. The same also happens when the implement tilts backwards such as when the tractor is nose down. The spool valve slides the opposite way causing the lift to fall. It doesn't push the implement into the ground since these tractors do not have downward hydraulic pressure.
Yes, first one surrended today. Torch + sledge hammer + wedges + WD40. Really stucked. Second one shall wait over night with Woodoo40. How about the ram in the middle?
For the pressure tube, tap it with a 7/16 fine tap. Use a threaded rod and a variety of pipe, socket, etc and a nut to create a jack screw. I ended up putting the jack nut on, tightened down the pipe, then added 2 nuts jammed together to keep the rod from turning. It will pop and creak while jacking the tube out, it is very tight. Once you get it loose it will slide out and the tube is around 24” long, it will clear the oil pan. Installing the new pressure tube, it will have to be driven in but the first 18 to 20” will go easy, the tube is machine tapered for a tight fit, when you drive it in if you don’t have a dealer fitted drive punch and who does, make one to fit inside and rest snugly on the edge of the tube. Drive it in till it is flush with the front of the bell housing. Viola, you’ve installed the pressure tube, Return line is harder due to its bigger. If you have access to a tap set that is big enough them proceed in the same fashion as the pressure tube, if not you’ll have to separate the transmission from the hydraulic reservoir and drive it out then install new tube in reverse order. I ordered my line from broken tractor, they were properly machined to fit. Be careful some may try to sell you lines that aren’t machined, that are just plain tubes that won’t fit. Hope this helps, I’ve had my apart over and over replacing worn out or broken parts and still won’t work, but I’ve learned scads of assembly tricks.
The spool valves, the springs and check balls at the beginning of the video. I can't find those parts anywhere. Where do I find those parts? The tractor I purchased has some missing parts Great video and good information.
Thanks for your tutorial, I rebuilt two lift covers snd pumps last month. In that process I lost the 3/4" plug to the lift cover check valve, can you sell me one
Thank you so much for this very informative video. I’ve been looking for months for a video to show what the draft control lever shaft. Mine is broken but fortunately the lever itself was in the tool box on the tractor. My question is, first, do you know the part number and a supplier for that draft control lever shaft and second, how did you zinc coat the shaft? Really appreciate the video and your time and help.
Thanks for the comment. As for the shaft, the part# NCA517B. As for a vendor, you'll have to check Google since I don't see any aftermarket ones available and oem is very expensive. With that being said, I'd check eBay. I bought all the internals for a top cover for around $50 last year. To plate the shaft I used a copy cad kit from Caswell Plating.
I went to put the top lid back on mine and tested it and something with the piston happened and lodged and broke a chunk out of the cylinder. What did I do wrong or what can I do to make sure that don’t happen with my new one.
Only thing I can think of that would cause that is something binding up in the dog bone to rocker area. Any hydraulic issues should've tripped the pressure relief valve. I doubt you had the piston crooked because it would've been a real bear to install. I'm assuming you tested it without an implement attached also. The lift arms should move easily when installed also when lifted off the piston. Thatll make the dog bone fall out of the piston but it should realign itself easily.
@@chickenhousemechanic It has me puzzled. Thanks for the reply though. And yes everything was unloaded. The only thing I know I didn’t do correctly was put the seat bolts back in but I’m not sure that would have caused that much of a problem would it? I know the back bolt is supposed to adjust something on the inside.
@@trevorgarner2829 seat bolts don't adjust anything. Factory is just studs that screw into the top cover and are away from anything that moves. They set just below the surface underneath. If you had a long bolt in it that may have been a problem.
@@chickenhousemechanic I didn’t have the seat back on yet. I was gonna try it before I went ahead and put it all the way back together. I guess I will give it another shot when I get the new one. Keeping my fingers cross! 😅
The small L shaped lever should have a groove cut in it for a detent ball. There is a spring and ball under the flat head screw just above the position/draft lever.
Okay, I'm Brazilian and here I couldn't find the measurements of the tool to adjust the control valve, would I be able to provide the measurements, thank you
I like to have the spare parts store name, whrre to get all this New pieles for and to repair the hydrolic system of my Ford 4000 tractor 1965 I Will thank you a lot to have your kind information.
Hi there professor I am looking for the Fordson super major tractor rear hydraulic lift pump and hydraulic top pressure cover where can get one, and how much please.
Tengo que reemplazar bujes del eje de las palanca SE gasto tanto que se comio los bosajes de la tortuga ,por lo que tengo que rellenar y tornear para poner nuevos bujes ! Y cuando ponga bujes nuevos les voy hacer rayas , araña de lubricacion SE gastan porque esos bujes trabajan en seco!
you did good job with this. the new paint job looks slick.
This video and all of the others in this set are beyond excellent!! You are a natural instructor and fantastic teacher. Thanks for sharing your extensive talents and expertise.
Thank you.
This video helped me rebuild my hydraulics. Thank you very much🙏🏼
Very interesting your video.
Thank you for the effort to show us mechanical solutions
Dang your doing a outstanding job rebuilding it
Just happy to be watching this for the 4/5 time
Keep us updated on it
Thank you so much for telling us the size of that flat o-ring. This video really helped me out on my Ford 641.
Thank you so much. Your instruction was really good. Very detailed.
Your videos are A+. Seriously great content. I will send people to this channel. You have put your heart and soul into what you do and your videos pay testament. Thanks for your hard work.
Thanks for the comment and for helping to spread the word.
Where do you get supplies for zinc plating? Could you do a video tutorial on zinc plating?
@@GABRIELGIESEL I get supplies from Caswell plating. Sure I can do a video. I have some stuff I'm working on right now that I can video.
@@chickenhousemechanic awesome. Look forward to it
@@chickenhousemechanic when you paint your parts do you put a primer on them or just paint them with industrial epoxy ?
Dude this is an awesome tutorial, we’ll done!
Excellent. Thank you for posting
I still have my 4 inch long aligning studs for the top cover that i made as an Ford apprentice here in the UK in the 60's
Real good I have worked on a lot of Ford lift cover tops and massy top when I worked at a massy dealership you did a real good job the only thing I see is when I put the lift arms on the lift shaft doing all the final adjustments I had a Ford lift cover tool kit when you had the lift arms measuring over to the wall with your tape measure in the tool kit was a bracket that bolted to the lift cover with two bolts it bolted right over the lift shaft where the shaft came out of the cover top all you did then was to lift the.lift arms all the way up it had a rod you would slid throw the two holes at the end of the lift arm thin you would slid it into the hole in bracket if everything was alright the rod would slid freely in and out the hole in the bracket this bracket is part of the Ford lift cover tool kit with the lift arms all the way up the rod slid in to holes of the lift arm an bracket everything is held in the right position to do a Ford top notch bar none adjustments if you have a problem you will be able to find it and fix it take it to the.fielf and get the job done you did a good job young fellow the best i seen yet
I've seen that tool in the manual. I tried making one using measurements I found online and it was wrong. I keep my eyes out for one so maybe one day I'll have one. Thanks for the comment too.
exelent information thank you very much
Thank You’ll for information and video
I don't know if you did it but slightly rounding and polishing the leading edge of the spool valve with a fine emery cloth will help prevent galling and seizing of the parts.
Great tutorial , I've got too much pressure on a 70 4000 , pumps keep leaking after kiting them , I already replaced the lower pressure relief down by the pick up tube , I had this top cover apart , it wasn't stuck , could it still be something to do with those check valves in the cover ?
Its possible you have a sticking valve somewhere. I'm not familiar with the hydraulics on the later models though to offernyou much direction.
Excellent video
Thank you very good sir
Other questions have you ever used guide bolts to put cly on ?? It’s heavy for a 72 year old
Thanks for your help with this kind of work. Of all the UA-cam tutorials, yours are the most complete. I have run into a problem with my position control adjustment. The control valve position just won't go small enough for the spec. gap. I can only get it to about 0.50 and should be smaller. I noticed you had no trouble like that with yours.
It seems like a problem of the spring on the position control rod not having enough force to overcome the opposing strength of the spring on the control valve. If I back off on the baffle plate bolts to take some of that spring pressure away, the control valve moves closer and the gap can be set. I put new springs in both places so the springs are at their correct tensions I assume.
It might be the linkage is worn and causes the rod to hang up near the very end of its travel. I'm wondering if adding washers to the ends of the spring might increase the tension enough to get it up to what it needs to be to overcome the hangup. Any thoughts? Roberts Tractor does have salvaged parts that I could use but I'm not sure they'd be all that much better than what I've got already. Your advice is appreciated.
My first thought when reading your comment is, is the spring in the control valve coil binding since you said if you loosen the baffle plate on the cylinder it allows enough room for the position to be set. I don't think adding washers would help you any unless you put them between the plate and cylinder but that may have negative effects on operation. Did you change the cam follower pin? That only contacts the cam during position control and can cause the measurements to be off. I noticed on my position spring there is a washer there which i do not see in the parts manual. You could try adding a washer there to see if it helps.
@@chickenhousemechanic Thanks. I might try that. Very grateful for your help.
@@chickenhousemechanic I tried two washers first on the position spring rod. Increased the spring tension to more than enough. Reduced to one and it seemed pretty much to spec. Able to set the gap now. I think the linkage is worn and the originally designed spring tension is now just a little too low to overcome the binding that occurs from things not being exactly lined up to factory specs. Thanks very much for your help.
@@pklussier good to hear you got it to work.
Outstanding videos!! Quick question that I don't find many addressing is the flow valve located in the front of the cover unit. Removed the cap and spring (in pieces) attempted to remove the valve with 3/8-24 bolt but unable to remove at all. Another channel only mentions if you can't remove it just leave it, but no information on it's function or what takes place if it doesn't move at all. Any guidance would be greatly helpful.
Thank you
The valve you are talking about, one with the 3/8 thread, ins't technically a valve. I think I refer to it as a spool valve but it's actually just a plug that looks like a valve, hence the reason it has to be pulled out and pressed in. As for the function of the other two valves in that port, the first one is the check valve. It functions to hold oil in the lift cylinder and hold the arms lifted and only works when you raise the lift. The 2nd valve behind the plug is the back pressure valve. It's purpose is to maintain a low oil pressure for positioning the unload valve in the cylinder, I show that in one of my other videos. Both valves are closed when the lift is in neutral, not raising or lowering. However when the pressure in front of the back pressure valve reaches a cerain value the valve will open allowing oil to bypass and return to the reservoir. On the other hand the check valve will open at 115 psi during the lifting procedure to allow oil to flow around it into the lift cyclinder.
That's kind of a summary of it. The large red service manual explains it more in depth and has a few oil flow drawings to help make sense of it.
Thank you so much for the clarification it makes complete sense now. I think I can put everything back together correctly. @@chickenhousemechanic
I just finished servicing the top cover on my 850 yesterday but I didn't go as in-depth as you did. The issue I was trying to address was that when I am grading my driveway with a back blade the three point doesn't stay set. It slowly settles. It will sag a little bit then jerk up, sag, jerk, etc. I figured it was the o-ring and leather on the piston so I replaced those as well as all the other o-rings in the assembly. One thing I missed, however, was the "valve" that is inside the check valve on the front of the cover. I did pull the check valve out, cleaned it, replaced the o-ring, and re-installed it. I never pulled the inside "valve" out. Could this be the culprit in why my three point settles? By the way, I took it for a test drive on the driveway after I was done working on it and it still settles. Not as bad (maybe) but it still does. Another thing I should mention is that the o-ring kit I bought didn't seem to have the right size for the check valve. It seemed to fit kind of loose in the bore. It doesn't seem like this is much of an issue since the o-ring is basically just a seal here.
A great tutorial went through everything you did and everything seems to be fine but can you use the original accessory plate and tap into it for a hydraulic line just wondering thanks
57:41 57:41
Never tried it so I'm not sure. I've seen some rigged stuff on the internet but not sure what it was for or how it was controlled.
Hi again! Do You happen to know what is the bolt thread size on the lift arm center bolt in both ends of the shaft? It's 1/2" thick but Im not familiar with inch threads here in Finland. Your video has been very helpful, my top is almost ready for installation back to Suer Dexta. Only adjustement is not yet done. By the way, the center rocker was so stubborn stuck, so i decided to let it be. Mraning bushings are old and worn....
Those bolts are 7/16"-20 and 11/16" long. Hardware stores will most likely carry bolts that are 3/4" long and those should be fine.
Hey learning a lot. Got a question. I have fluid and pressure to the top plate enough to make the engine on the tractor to start to load up. When you try to pick up on the lift But my lift still want move at all. I have taken the two valves out of the lift piston cleaned them replaced all the O rings. And put it back together twice. And still nothing other than before the engine didn’t react when up tried to pick the lift up. I do have some fluid trying to come out of auxiliary hydraulics control handle. But the out put of the auxiliary hydraulics are capped off at this time. Any help you can give me would be much appreciated.
I've never had an engine load up when using the 3 point. Sounds to me like the remote hydraulic might be the issue. If you have the original top/block off plate I'd put that on there and try your lift.
Thanks for responding, but I'm looking for the measurements of the filling gauge tool that you made based on the original, the one who didn't remember the measurements at the time, if you have the measurements
I just put my top lid back on I did a rebuild but it’s still self adjusting it’s not as bad but it will still drop and implement just a hair and bring it back up all I done was a piston rebuild and all the other o rings ect any ideas ?
Might have some air in the system. My 861 still does it after its set a while. Usually will stop after working it a while.
Should the turnbuckle adjustment rod assembly be a rigid link? Mine can move about an inch along the rod that goes to the touch control lever to the spool valve. It seems this should be a fixed connection. Thanks.
I'm assuming you are talking about the arm that the turnbuckle is pinned to. If so then yes it will slide some on a bushing at the end of a spring. In the video at minute 40 you can see the arm and the bushing.
@@chickenhousemechanic Many thanks...we're getting a few steps closer.
I have a 641, I have rebuilt every part of the hydraulic system to include installing a new pressure and return line. I’m not so happy to say that the arms still will not lift any weight other than themselves. Do you have any thoughts, I’m pulling what’s left of my hair out.
Hard to say really. Did you make sure all parts are in good condition before you adjusted the top cover including a new cam pin? Does the pump produce good pressure? Do you see any leaks when looking into through the pto shifter hole while running tractor? You could have a valve sticking also but I'd check the easy stuff first as there's not really a good way to test the valves themselves.
@@chickenhousemechanic after watching your vids I decided to get another top cover kit of o-rings and start from scratch. As far as the pump, I rebuilt it also but I’m not sure how to check the pressure if one of the relief valves is not holding. The pto cover I’m going to try before pulling it apart again. At least I know the pressure and return lines are good. When I got the tractor the hydraulics were not working and the reservoir had a fair bit of water in it, hence the rusted holes lines that I replaced.
i have a question. is this adjustment setting good for a 861 powermaster? i am assuming that the years you have showing at the top of screen are any ford in those years? any help will be appreciated.thanks
Yes these are the same for any 801 series tractors including the 861.
Como montar a válvula que vai no cilindro do 8br que sai na tampa em cima vão duas molas um cubinho e uma tampa de fenda
Thank you
Hi CHM, question, I adjusted the valves for the lift arms, but now they seem to be too low and will not raise my implements high enough to use them, can I reposition just the arms on the splines or are they keyed and sit in only one position
The arms are keyed to the rock shaft with a master spline. Not sure if there's another arm that doesn't have that master spline or not that would allow it to be clocked 1 spline off. Without measuring it, I want to say the lift arms on my 861-D set about 4 inches off the ground when fully lowered and tractor is off.
@@chickenhousemechanic thank you , not sure what I will do for now
It would be nice to know what those two valves you put back into the top cover do.
Thanks!
The first valve installed is the back pressure valve. The service manual says its function is to maintain a low pressure in the system for the unloading valve to work. The 2nd valve is a check valve and is designed to hold oil in left cylinder to hold arms in a raised position. Manual says that valve only operates during a raising cycle.
The factory service manual gives operating principles on the systems if you'd like more detailed descriptions. Way too much to type and it's probably copyrighted as well.
@@chickenhousemechanic Thank You so much - you do a great job!
Hoping I can find a similar one on a 3000 3 cyl diesel.
@@vettepiper6752 thank you. Glad I could help.
Good guidance. Looks much the same as dexta lift cover. I think they put the same three point hitch to british made tractors
I believe they are the same as the blue and orange fordson dexta tractors.
So best I can tell it’s the same except for very small differences with top plate and the back of the cylinder.
Hi CHM and thank you for guiding me and so many others with problems we encounter when rebuilding and repairing our old Fords. You make these jobs so much more enjoyable knowing you are a few clicks away. One question, while underneath my 1955 Ford 600 I noitced an odd shaped plate at the bottom of the transmission case with five bolts (I'm sorry I could not attach a photo). What is on the other side? Thanks again.
Not sure which transmission you have but the 5 speed transmission has a square plate near the front of the transmission that has 4 bolts and a cotter pin in it. Thats just an inspection plate. Don't think the 4 speed has that. On the rear end center section there is a plate with 5 bolts that houses the hydraulic pressure relief valve. I show that plate and valve in this video.
m.ua-cam.com/video/wQNwAeqj1Jk/v-deo.html
Many thanks for your great advice...you have made my 600 project much more fun. And, now that the engine is running, the hydraulics work great thanks to the guidance in your videos. Almost ready to get to work.
@@account11455 glad to hear it. Always fun working these old tractors.
Hi,, what would cause the lift to bounce up and down when A load is on it etc,, @ raised position kinda jurks like it's releasing oil/pressure inside ? I've rebuild the lift,, New pump,, relief valve,, o ring on piston replaced also! Thanks John
1966 ford 4000
Usually jerking is air in system or too thick of oil since you've rebuilt everything. If you didn't have it rebuilt I'd say check for leaking cylinder o-rings.
One of the two springs for the check valve that you assembled right away in the video is broken for me. The outermost. Any ideas? I cannot find it anywhere and cannot measure it for a McMaster one because a small part of it is gone
Looks like they're available from New holland and a couple aftermarket suppliers but they're not cheap. Salvage yard might be best route. I don't have any laying around to measure to see about generic springs. The parts numbers are NCA962B and NCA645A. Also check ebay. Some guys sell the internal parts of the hydraulic top covers and a striped cover that might have good springs in them.
Nice work mate, I’m following you while I’m fixing my own, I noticed that the measurements you had when adjusting your lift worked well for you but when I attempted to get the same clearance it would run out of range. Are the measurements different on the older dexta’s?
Thanks for your time.
Not sure if they're the same or not on a dexta. I've never worked on one of those.
Is the splined shaft basically same or similar to the Ford 3000 model year 1974? What is procedure for removing arms stuck to shaft?
Not sure if the shaft is the same or not. I'd say they're pretty close though. Best way to remove a stuck arm is heat and a 2 jaw puller. A puller with the link rod between the arm works best since you can tighten the rod to help the arms of the puller stay onto what you're pulling. Spraying some rust penetrant onto the splines will also help.
@@chickenhousemechanic The exterior arms in your video do look same as mine. But there is nowhere for puller to grab on to. Have used penetrating oil and probably will need heat to remove. Thanks.
@@mozit6 yeah there's not much room to get a puller behind them. You'll have to really force the jaws behind them. Maybe even hammer the jaw in. Once one of them starts to move there should be enough play to get behind both of them.
@@chickenhousemechanic ok, just don't want to damage arm or cover in the process. Thanks again.
Como é o nome dessa valvula
Hi have a ford 4000 1975 and lift leveler doesn't move lift arms til it's halfway up,what would be issue
Since the arms lift I'd say it's probably an adjustment issue. I've not worked on a hydraulic system on one of those tractors so I can't tell you exactly what may be out of adjustment.
hello excellent video
where did you buy the complete check valve kit
That's the original check valve. You'd probably have to get that from a new holland dealer or find a used one. I don't know of any aftermarket ones.
Tq so much man . Finally solved my issues . Can you make video for the clutch replacent ?
Thanks. Glad I could help. As for the clutch I have multiple videos that show me taking the clutch out for a select-o-speed and then reinstalling a dual stage clutch. One video has me changing the flywheel ring gear and installing the dual stage clutch onto the engine. I dont really have a step-by-step video though.
is there a video explaining what the draft setting on the 3pt means and what its used for?
There are probably videos out there explaining it. I do not have one. The simplest way to explain draft is allowing the inplement to float across the ground when the tractor goes up hill and down hill vs the implement. The more detailed version version is when the implement meets more resistance the implement tends to pitch forward at the top and that pushes on the top link and the rocker assembly. That in turn causes the spool valve inside the lift cylinder to move and makes the lift rise slightly on its own to pull the implement out of the ground and overcome the resistance it is facing. The same also happens when the implement tilts backwards such as when the tractor is nose down. The spool valve slides the opposite way causing the lift to fall. It doesn't push the implement into the ground since these tractors do not have downward hydraulic pressure.
Hello from Finland. Doing to diassembly phase now, and struggling to remothe loft arms from the axle. Any good hints?
3-jaw puller and torch is usually needed to remove the arms.
Yes, first one surrended today. Torch + sledge hammer + wedges + WD40. Really stucked. Second one shall wait over night with Woodoo40. How about the ram in the middle?
@@jeepeeam31 the center rocker usually comes off pretty easily.
Have you ever changed a leaking steel hydraulic line inside the transmission cavity?
No I haven't had to do that yet.
I have and it is a bit of a booger
For the pressure tube, tap it with a 7/16 fine tap. Use a threaded rod and a variety of pipe, socket, etc and a nut to create a jack screw. I ended up putting the jack nut on, tightened down the pipe, then added 2 nuts jammed together to keep the rod from turning. It will pop and creak while jacking the tube out, it is very tight. Once you get it loose it will slide out and the tube is around 24” long, it will clear the oil pan. Installing the new pressure tube, it will have to be driven in but the first 18 to 20” will go easy, the tube is machine tapered for a tight fit, when you drive it in if you don’t have a dealer fitted drive punch and who does, make one to fit inside and rest snugly on the edge of the tube. Drive it in till it is flush with the front of the bell housing. Viola, you’ve installed the pressure tube,
Return line is harder due to its bigger. If you have access to a tap set that is big enough them proceed in the same fashion as the pressure tube, if not you’ll have to separate the transmission from the hydraulic reservoir and drive it out then install new tube in reverse order.
I ordered my line from broken tractor, they were properly machined to fit. Be careful some may try to sell you lines that aren’t machined, that are just plain tubes that won’t fit. Hope this helps, I’ve had my apart over and over replacing worn out or broken parts and still won’t work, but I’ve learned scads of assembly tricks.
Awesome video! Where did you source your parts for this from, if I may ask?
Thank you. I got parts from New holland, just8ns, all state ag parts, and McMaster-Carr.
@chickenhousemechanic thank you!
The spool valves, the springs and check balls at the beginning of the video. I can't find those parts anywhere. Where do I find those parts? The tractor I purchased has some missing parts Great video and good information.
Only place that would possibly have them new would be a New Holland dealer. Will probably have to purchase them used though.
Thanks for your tutorial, I rebuilt two lift covers snd pumps last month. In that process I lost the 3/4" plug to the lift cover check valve, can you sell me one
Glad to hear you got some stuff fixed. I do not sell any parts though.
Thank you so much for this very informative video. I’ve been looking for months for a video to show what the draft control lever shaft. Mine is broken but fortunately the lever itself was in the tool box on the tractor. My question is, first, do you know the part number and a supplier for that draft control lever shaft and second, how did you zinc coat the shaft? Really appreciate the video and your time and help.
Thanks for the comment. As for the shaft, the part# NCA517B. As for a vendor, you'll have to check Google since I don't see any aftermarket ones available and oem is very expensive. With that being said, I'd check eBay. I bought all the internals for a top cover for around $50 last year. To plate the shaft I used a copy cad kit from Caswell Plating.
I went to put the top lid back on mine and tested it and something with the piston happened and lodged and broke a chunk out of the cylinder. What did I do wrong or what can I do to make sure that don’t happen with my new one.
Only thing I can think of that would cause that is something binding up in the dog bone to rocker area. Any hydraulic issues should've tripped the pressure relief valve. I doubt you had the piston crooked because it would've been a real bear to install. I'm assuming you tested it without an implement attached also. The lift arms should move easily when installed also when lifted off the piston. Thatll make the dog bone fall out of the piston but it should realign itself easily.
@@chickenhousemechanic It has me puzzled. Thanks for the reply though. And yes everything was unloaded. The only thing I know I didn’t do correctly was put the seat bolts back in but I’m not sure that would have caused that much of a problem would it? I know the back bolt is supposed to adjust something on the inside.
@@trevorgarner2829 seat bolts don't adjust anything. Factory is just studs that screw into the top cover and are away from anything that moves. They set just below the surface underneath. If you had a long bolt in it that may have been a problem.
@@chickenhousemechanic I didn’t have the seat back on yet. I was gonna try it before I went ahead and put it all the way back together. I guess I will give it another shot when I get the new one. Keeping my fingers cross! 😅
@@trevorgarner2829 yeah definitely don't want to do that again. Thatll add up quick.
my draft control arm does not have a detent, what keeps it in draft position?
The small L shaped lever should have a groove cut in it for a detent ball. There is a spring and ball under the flat head screw just above the position/draft lever.
Does this video apply to my 1964 Super Dexta?
I'm not 100% sure. Those use the same gasket kit but don't know if those are designed the same or not.
Is the draft and the position the same for an 800
The adjustments are the same as well as all the hard parts. They have different functions on the tractor though.
Okay, I'm Brazilian and here I couldn't find the measurements of the tool to adjust the control valve, would I be able to provide the measurements, thank you
Measurements for gauge are in video at minute 45.
Super 😊
I like to have the spare parts store name, whrre to get all this New pieles for and to repair the hydrolic system of my Ford 4000 tractor 1965
I Will thank you a lot to have your kind information.
Hi there professor I am looking for the Fordson super major tractor rear hydraulic lift pump and hydraulic top pressure cover where can get one, and how much please.
I'd check with Mike Smith Implements on Facebook. He'd be someone who can help you with that. If he can't he probably knows someone who can.
I’m not getting anything from you on notice about you
Are you ok ???
Tengo que reemplazar bujes del eje de las palanca SE gasto tanto que se comio los bosajes de la tortuga ,por lo que tengo que rellenar y tornear para poner nuevos bujes ! Y cuando ponga bujes nuevos les voy hacer rayas , araña de lubricacion SE gastan porque esos bujes trabajan en seco!
Deve ser o respiro do cilindro
45 ft lbs