I was actually uninformed when i bought this lens. But after the seller was not responding anymore i took matters into my own hands and followed this video because it was basically the only fix i could do (even though the most dangerous). After doing this i am in awe, the clarity is the same and the focus does work really well. The rings are quite tight and it took a lot more force that you might want to use near sensitive lens, but in the end they did open. You do kinda have to be careful near the lens and blades as to not touch them with you fingers, screwdriver or cable, but otherwise it is a pretty solid fix! I am forever thankful for this video!
Yes, of course I took it apart and put back together before filming, so they open smoothly in the video, but first time was a pain. There probably is some tool for that, but as the whole point of the project is cheap DIY, I didn't bother to acqure it.
Interesting. I always wanted to have a Helios 44-2. A have a friend who uses it with her Canon DSLRs and EOS SLRs. I opted for buying a Pentax Spotmatic (Zenit are known for having low quality) and use it with it. The analog lenses I use with my two Nikon DSLRs D7000 and D7200 are AI and thanks for a feature called 'non-CPU lenses', they are 100% compatible.
I know easier and without changing optical formula : cut your m42 adapter so You can screw in more = infinity . I have no idea if it’s safe for DSLR with mirror potentially hitting the protruding lens but for mirrorless it’s safe
It's all good in theory and you get a further focus. But... Focusing trough a viewfinder do not give me good confirmation because I changed the focal plane for sensor, but the mirror focus system is half closer! It's no good. And also it seems that I don't get the same Helios bokeh
It could work! If the schematics found here: www.pentaxforums.com/lensreviews/S-M-C-Super-Takumar-135mm-F3.5.html and my understanding of them are correct, you only need to move the last element a bit towards the camera. Let us know if you get some results.
I don't have anything good to show right now, but picture quality did not change - the fix only moves the lens elements a bit, which does not affect the image, only operation. I used colored wires to make them visible in the video, obviously black wire would be better, but I have not noticed any artifacts and have not bothered to change them :)
I did not actually discover it myself, there are other tutorials, but much longer and in my opinion, harder to follow :) I am not entirely sure, what happens there optically, so maybe the double cable will give equal results, or some other interesting effects. But in practice you will run out of threading at some point and can not screw it back together if the wire stack is too thick in one place.
That problem only persists with Canon DSLRs, Nikons have a much longer flange distance, so you can go much "deeper" with the rear element of these lenses.
I have a Helios 44m on the way for my 5300. Do you have a recommendation for a specific wire to use? Is this just a generic thin speaker wire or something. Any reply would be most helpful. Thanks in advance
Any wire goes really, as long as it stays in place. Mine was 1.3mm thick, but exact thickness depends on thickness of the M42 to F mount adapter - experiment with different thicknesses in that ballpark and use what satisfies you most. Or maybe you can think of some better method to shift those lens a bit and make a video about it :)
@@jespersaron Actually it looks like that wire is closer to 3.0mm thick. Your caliper measures centimeters on the bottom scale, and inches in tenths on the top scale. So the wire is aprx. 13/100 inch, or 3mm. But as you say, the thickness will depend on the dimensions of the adapter.
@@madpogue no, that's not how vernier calipers work :) Check out This Old Tony's excellent video if you want to know how to read the moving scale, starting from 4:00: ua-cam.com/video/kMcTFslVTgA/v-deo.html I don't use inches, ever.
@@jespersaron I know how calipers work. The fixed (top) scale of your caliper is in inches. Close the caliper so the two zeros line up. 1 on the top scale lines up with a little over 2.5 on the bottom scale. This means the ratio of the two scales is about 2.5, which corresponds to exactly the number of centimeters (2.54) to an inch. At 0:59, your caliper is a shade over 1/10 inch open - the zero point on the bottom (moving) scale lines up just past the first small notch (1/10") on the top (fixed) scale.
APS-C, the camera is Nikon D3300 and there is ample room between lens and mirror. It's basically the reason why the mod is needed in the first place - if the sensor/mirror combo of the F-mount standard was closer to the lens mating surface than M42-s, then the adapter could easily compensate for it by being thicker. That's why vintage lens enthusiasts love Micro Four Thirds mount cameras... en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flange_focal_distance
@@jespersaron thank you. I have just recently received a Helios 44-2 from Russia, that I purchased on eBay so I may try this simple mod for infinity focus with my D7500
@@bully74uk Since it's been a year and I'm in the same situation as you, mind telling what you did with it so far? I too have a D7500 and debating on buying an adapter with a corrective glass or do this modification. My requimrent is to have the swirly bokeh while having infinity focus.
@@asahi.wand since it's been a year now for you too, do you have any update ? I'm note kidding, i'm in the same situation with Nikon d7500. Is that a curse ? haha
I was actually uninformed when i bought this lens. But after the seller was not responding anymore i took matters into my own hands and followed this video because it was basically the only fix i could do (even though the most dangerous). After doing this i am in awe, the clarity is the same and the focus does work really well. The rings are quite tight and it took a lot more force that you might want to use near sensitive lens, but in the end they did open. You do kinda have to be careful near the lens and blades as to not touch them with you fingers, screwdriver or cable, but otherwise it is a pretty solid fix! I am forever thankful for this video!
Yes, of course I took it apart and put back together before filming, so they open smoothly in the video, but first time was a pain. There probably is some tool for that, but as the whole point of the project is cheap DIY, I didn't bother to acqure it.
Interesting. I always wanted to have a Helios 44-2. A have a friend who uses it with her Canon DSLRs and EOS SLRs. I opted for buying a Pentax Spotmatic (Zenit are known for having low quality) and use it with it. The analog lenses I use with my two Nikon DSLRs D7000 and D7200 are AI and thanks for a feature called 'non-CPU lenses', they are 100% compatible.
Did that .... But I used a black rubber O-ring..... Very nice video
Is the swirly bokeh the same after modification ? Thanks.
I know easier and without changing optical formula : cut your m42 adapter so You can screw in more = infinity . I have no idea if it’s safe for DSLR with mirror potentially hitting the protruding lens but for mirrorless it’s safe
Question : Why 2 wires in 2 rear elements ? Why not single thicker wire in rear elemenet on top of aperture blades ?
Nice trick ! 👏👏👏Is the swirly bokeh the same after your modification ?
Better to use black color👍😊😃
It's all good in theory and you get a further focus. But... Focusing trough a viewfinder do not give me good confirmation because I changed the focal plane for sensor, but the mirror focus system is half closer! It's no good. And also it seems that I don't get the same Helios bokeh
Of course you don't get the same bokeh, you have changed the lens design
Gonna try this on my super takumar 55mm f1.8. Hopefully it'll work. A small lens on a Nikon F hahaha
Did it work?
Hey I can’t even get the first ring out. It seems to be stuck pretty hard, any suggestions ?
Maybe visit your local watchmaker? They have a tool for unscrewing the back plate of the watch, maybe it works on the ring too?
I have helios 44m-4 58.2
I have 1.3mm cables
I did the same as you but unfortunately it doesn't work for me :(
HELP!
what camera do you have
@@myblueandme nikon d610 and nikon d7100
@@MrKaczkins could be it's mirror
Hi there, thank you for showing this!!!!
Do you think this will also work on Super Takumar 135mm 3.5? I want to use it on my d5300
It could work! If the schematics found here: www.pentaxforums.com/lensreviews/S-M-C-Super-Takumar-135mm-F3.5.html and my understanding of them are correct, you only need to move the last element a bit towards the camera.
Let us know if you get some results.
can you show some pics after doing that fix.
I don't have anything good to show right now, but picture quality did not change - the fix only moves the lens elements a bit, which does not affect the image, only operation. I used colored wires to make them visible in the video, obviously black wire would be better, but I have not noticed any artifacts and have not bothered to change them :)
ok thanks i will try it .
Just did this! Thank you!
you're! a genius!!! wow! why put that de front and back of the rear elements? what happend if I use a double cable in one place? thanks a looot!!!!
I did not actually discover it myself, there are other tutorials, but much longer and in my opinion, harder to follow :)
I am not entirely sure, what happens there optically, so maybe the double cable will give equal results, or some other interesting effects. But in practice you will run out of threading at some point and can not screw it back together if the wire stack is too thick in one place.
very nice
I did that...beware of the rear element hitting the mirror
That problem only persists with Canon DSLRs, Nikons have a much longer flange distance, so you can go much "deeper" with the rear element of these lenses.
I have a Helios 44m on the way for my 5300. Do you have a recommendation for a specific wire to use? Is this just a generic thin speaker wire or something. Any reply would be most helpful. Thanks in advance
Any wire goes really, as long as it stays in place. Mine was 1.3mm thick, but exact thickness depends on thickness of the M42 to F mount adapter - experiment with different thicknesses in that ballpark and use what satisfies you most. Or maybe you can think of some better method to shift those lens a bit and make a video about it :)
@@jespersaron I doubt it lol. Thanks for the tip sir
@@jespersaron Actually it looks like that wire is closer to 3.0mm thick. Your caliper measures centimeters on the bottom scale, and inches in tenths on the top scale. So the wire is aprx. 13/100 inch, or 3mm. But as you say, the thickness will depend on the dimensions of the adapter.
@@madpogue no, that's not how vernier calipers work :) Check out This Old Tony's excellent video if you want to know how to read the moving scale, starting from 4:00: ua-cam.com/video/kMcTFslVTgA/v-deo.html
I don't use inches, ever.
@@jespersaron I know how calipers work. The fixed (top) scale of your caliper is in inches. Close the caliper so the two zeros line up. 1 on the top scale lines up with a little over 2.5 on the bottom scale. This means the ratio of the two scales is about 2.5, which corresponds to exactly the number of centimeters (2.54) to an inch. At 0:59, your caliper is a shade over 1/10 inch open - the zero point on the bottom (moving) scale lines up just past the first small notch (1/10") on the top (fixed) scale.
Where can we find this cables? Will old headphone cable work? Usb charger(too thick?)?
They are call jumpers and they are use in electronic projects so you can find them in electronic components stores
So not one but two in 2 spot to don't riun characteeristic of lens. I need try it with my Zeiss 2.8
Damn... it works, i used Filament from my 3d print 0,9 mm i guess x2 and i put some seeal on. Now it is wather and dust proof becuysee i have chamber.
@@codiecrieg2480
Any loss of image quality ?
What camera body did you use the modified lens on ?
Full frame or aps-c ?
I'm assuming there was no concern with lens hitting mirror ?
APS-C, the camera is Nikon D3300 and there is ample room between lens and mirror. It's basically the reason why the mod is needed in the first place - if the sensor/mirror combo of the F-mount standard was closer to the lens mating surface than M42-s, then the adapter could easily compensate for it by being thicker. That's why vintage lens enthusiasts love Micro Four Thirds mount cameras... en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flange_focal_distance
@@jespersaron thank you. I have just recently received a Helios 44-2 from Russia, that I purchased on eBay so I may try this simple mod for infinity focus with my D7500
@@jespersaron lovely!
@@bully74uk Since it's been a year and I'm in the same situation as you, mind telling what you did with it so far? I too have a D7500 and debating on buying an adapter with a corrective glass or do this modification. My requimrent is to have the swirly bokeh while having infinity focus.
@@asahi.wand since it's been a year now for you too, do you have any update ? I'm note kidding, i'm in the same situation with Nikon d7500.
Is that a curse ? haha