CINEMATIC Exposure For S-Log3 (as a colorist) | Sony A7IV A7SIII FX3 FX30
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- Опубліковано 24 сер 2022
- One more thing I forgot to mention is INTENTION.
If you know that you're gonna grade the scene dark, of course you can expose slightly lower than the 'standard' +1.0. Same goes for overeposing.
#sony #slog3
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Finally someone who talks about exposing for different subjects. I literally always pushed everything to 1.7 overexposed and was wondering why my exposure is so weird at times. Thanks man!!
Glad it helped!
@@DannyGan Question pls. we must Adjust MM for different subject directly handy on body camera wheel or Adjust that with changing ISO ??
@@KooroshAcademyyou august it however you want, he’s just saying that MM is on the subject rather than the whole picture which is what most peoples advice is. This is solid advice as it will truly help you expose for your subject.
In terms of how to get it ti +1.0, you can change the shutter, aperture or iso. ND filters help with this in bright lighting conditions.
Me2 😊
Finally someone who makes more sense with how to expose slog 3.
Best explanation I've heard so far! I've been so confused on how to expose darker/lighter parts of the same scene, and this made everything click for me. Thank you so much for taking the time to explain this!
This is the best I've seen someone explain how to expose log footage! Great video 👌🏾👏🏾🙌🏾
Thanks man, appreciate it!
this was THE BEST explanation on the internet. straight to the point and soooo inteligent. THANKS SO MUCH
Aaa finally... Easier explaination to understand. Thanks !
I just discovered your channel and your content is amazing! I have been exposing it to +1.7 and notice a lot of times that the footage doesn’t turn out to what I expect… Nicely explained! Thank you for sharing!
So good. Simple and straightforward.
Awesome video and very helpful. Thank you!
I freaking love your content. Thanks to the algorithm to put your content.
I appreciate that!
amazing video. I have watched so many videos and tried so many techniques. Other than false colour, this is the best way to expose S-log 3. Thanks man
Glad it helped!
Heey! Thanks. So glad You made the video as you said!!!! 🔥
Makes so much sense! Was heading for using zebras on skintone or greycard but spot metering is so much more appropriate
Really useful and so far not seen anyone talk about exposing for different subject matters.
Cheers!
You Rock Man thanks for this video !
Thank you Dany, really helpful!
Dude thank you so much for this info !
Great. Some basic rules and its done. Thanks. 😊
This was top shelf legit! Thank you! :)
I must say, this is the most important tip regarding SLOG3 and I watched tons of videos. The only thing I ve done was to have metering to SPOT Standard and the focus by default. Man, thank you, this small setup is HUUUUGE. All the others should change their vlogs regarding how to expose SLOG3 :))). Hope others will find your video!
Much appreciated!
Easiest explaination to understand, this is great man Keep up
Thanks, will do!
I watched alot of videos on exposing for S-log3. I like this technique. I also really like the histogram technique which I think gives more latitude in exposing for the scene.
This was good!
thanks dude - makes sense !
Just subbed up! I will be making the leap into s log 3 and ditching s cinetone this gave me all the confidence without overwhelming information
Glad to help man! Slog3 will definitely give you plenty of creative leverage on the colour grade 🔥
Just find you videos! a big fun of your stuff!
Great video! thank you.
Muxh thanks❤
I find that for lowest noise, lock the ISO to 640 during daytime and 12800 ISOBfor night time. Set White Balance using light temperature (usually 6000K daytime and 4000K night time) Turn exposure compensation dial to +0.7 or 1.0. Then set in Shutter Priority to allow for the camera to change exposure by changing the aperture rather than the ISO.
This is very helpful. Than you
thank you
I'm going to try your method on my Sony A7IV as soon as possible... Thank you for sharing such great knowledge and keep up the good work!
Great video! Lot of 💎s! Just got my FX3 today and switched over from the Panasonic GH5. I shoot music videos, what’s the best cinematic settings you recommend?
are you goona color grade in post? Then slog3cine. It should be the pp8 color profile!
But how do you expose if you are outside and film while walking around. And ur multimeter is like really jumping up and down multiple stops all the time? Pls someone help!
Use zebras
Great Video, can I ask if the Gamma assist is the same as the LUT that Fx3 comes with? Would you apply the same logic when shooting on slog 3
Not sure which LUT you are referring to, but the Gamma Assist is close to any offical rec.709 colour space transform/technical LUT
I would like to point out that many beginners like me are afraid of spot metering and spot exposure. They think they "miss out" the rest of the exposure. The more you film, the more you realise that filming is not about getting everything in the shot in the perfect light. Thats exactly what I thought I must do. This was a major blocker for my progress to film in SLOG3, beccause I thought that I "miss out" the complete remaining area, when I use spot metering for exposure. I was so wrong. I hope this information helps the beginners.
Yess the subject is more important if you don’t have control of the environment
Thank you. So this also applies to shooting in Cine EI with the FX30? Do you think its best just to simply processing Cine EI in the sony Catylist Browse software?
Cine EI only previews the ISO brightness but records in base ISO. You will have to manually adjust the brightness offset in post. I do not prefer this setting, but if you're not sure of how to expose, Cine EI is an option to maintain low noise from the camera...but not in the final grade. Sorry but I'm not too familiar with Catylist Browse.
Thank you ! What REC709 LUT are you using ? The official one from the Sony website ?
In editing or when shooting?
@@DannyGanWhen shooting.🤔
Thanks for this video. Excuse my ignorance but you're saying +1 based on what you're getting using a lut in your monitor (something like rec709)? Or are you saying it should be +1 based on the look of the s-log image in your monitor? If so, how do you handle that? I nearly always have the 709 lut on
Based on the multi-meter
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Nice video. Very helpful. Where did those film overlays come from?:)
Envato I believe 😗
Thanks but What about log 2 !
Hi. great video. tell me how you use zebra when using LUT?
I don't. So my guess is as good as yours I'm afraid
What would you do if your camera does not have this exposure metering? It’s not on my Sony FS7
Then that's a little tricky, you'll have to trust other more "professional" tools like the histogram or false color since that camera is aimed to more professional users.
How do you expose slog3 if you are outside and film while walking around. And your multimeter is jumping up and down multiple stops all the time?
Pick a subject, expose for that. Or find the average exposure if you're walking around. It takes practice to identify it.
what setting profile do you recommend for the a7iv for slog3?
S-Gamut3.cine, details -7 and everything else at deafult.
@@DannyGan Thanks a lot Danny. New Follower!
Thanks for pointing out. But this works mostly for static scenes. How do you do it in run n gun situations? Switching over to multimetering? Thx.
Usually what i do is switch to a "average" exposure for the ambiance/scene. Then just correct it in post if needed, you have quite some room to adjust exposure in post. If you're going through a tunnel of some sorts, just expose for the brighter part, or the darker, depending on what you wanna prioritise. It's impossible to expose 100% 'correctly' for every situation. Hope this helps!
@@DannyGan thanks mate. That helps! Keep up your good work! Best wishes!
what about iso 800 when shooting slog3, is it necessary?
not that it is necessary per se, but it's the base ISO for S-Log3. So it will give you the lowest image noise.
Hi! One question : if i am filming in the sun, Its ok to pull down exposure with ND Filter, isn‘t it ? Greetz Richie
Yeah sure, ND is your friend when it comes to filming under bright conditions. Just get good ones like Nisi True Color so that you won't get artifacts
@@DannyGan thanks, man! You‘re a specialist i see. But one question remains for me: for example the FX30 Cine EI has ISO 800 and 2500 . If i need More ISO in really lowlight situation: which ISO DOES work? Some pros das, 10.000 is bad and 12.600 is higher but less nois than ISO 10.00? Is there a rule i can work with?
At which number of overexposure the Highlights will blow out?
+2.0 blinking
Is It possible to change the focus button ?
Sorry, I'm not sure what your question is 😅 what would you like to change it to?
@@DannyGan The circle following foucs as you mentionned in your video, is it possible to attribute to another button?
Anyway you could do a Clog 2 or 3 breakdown?😬
I would...if i have those cameras 😅
Is this information relevant for the a7rV camera?
Yes, just not about the monitor. It has a lower quality monitor.
Great Video. But in Run and Gun situations it is very difficult to do that.
I feel that it would actualy be easier, you don’t need to switch on anything. Just aim for an optimum exposure if you’re flinging the camera around.
Thank you, what is your zebra level?
Sorryy but I don't use it at all
@@DannyGan thank you
Why would i overexpose a white subject and underexpose a black subject. Wouldn’t it be the other way around?
A white subject will naturally overexpose itself. If you underexpose a white subject, the surrounding might be too underexposed to recover. So my technique takes the surroundings into consideration and slightly overexpose the white subject so that you'll get a balanced exposure.
If using the camera exposure meter, as an exaggerated example, and you meter a snowman in a field of snow, the camera meter will be underexpose to about 18% grey. Conversely, if you meter for a black cat against a black background, it will be overexposed as the meter will 18% grey as a reference. A typical average scene will be about 18% grey, so the camera will be exposed more or less correctly. So if you spot meter a dark skinned person, the exposure will be a little too bright as the camera uses 18% grey as it’s reference, so you have to override the camera settings to bring the exposure down a bit (ie close down aperture). It does seem a little counterintuitive hey? Does that make sense? The camera uses the reflective light metering. Personally, I use a seperate hand held light meter to measure the light falling on the subject, this is called incidence light metering. Anyway, big subject.😅
how would 18% gray card fit in? +1? thanks
I don't have an tested answer, but if I were to make an educated guess, around +0.3 to +0.7
the metering on the camera is probably the least reliable tool for exposing. plus it’s not really practical for run and gun shooting. why not set the zebras to something like +90 (enough headroom to 94 clipping point) and just expose for the highlights? I had good results with this approach and it’s quite practical. you get as much information as possible and worry about adjusting exposure to taste in post.
I beg ti differ. Exposing for the highlights will sacrifice details in the shadows, but whatever works!
@@DannyGan Sure. For high contrast scenes. but you can make the conscious decision to let certain parts of the image blow out for example. I never had a problem with shadow detail to be honest. I set my zebras to 90-92 and just make sure i don’t see any visible in the image and it has always served me well.
But aren't you supposed to expose darker scenarios with 1.7 and bright ones with 0.7- 1
If you expose darker scenarios to +1.7, you'll be blowing out your highlights or introducing lots of noise. Dark sudjects should look naturally dark, hope that makes sense 😅
Thought that too but I think I got it now. The image brightness is staying the same if you usw the spot metering technique. If you got a black and a white object as a subject and you put the spot meter on that white one the metering is saying 2.0 and if you put it on that black element it should say something about -0.7 than you are fine, if the numbers are off you readjust it.
Doesnt matter what i do . I alwas got grains
The aim for exposure is not to completely avoid noise/grain, but to shoot a decent exposure. If you're only thinking about noise/grain then you're going about it the wrong way. Plus, there's always noise reduction in post if you need it.
Zebras is far more superior, you can just toggle the zebrea on and off if it’s annoying seeing zebras on your screen
Each to their own
pp off ?
S-log3, whichever PP doesn’t matter according to sources by Sony
你在中国吧
不是
what you are doing for run and gun shoots? this makes no sense.
I don’t blame you, try watching at x0.5 speed