Oil Catch Can purpose and why catch can don't work, Two reasons why you need Catch can
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- Опубліковано 7 лют 2025
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Get yourself catch can amzn.to/4djCjMc
😂
@@repairvehicle tell me if I’m wrong with my thinking, but wouldn’t stopping the oil vapor be a half measure to prevent intake and intake valve deposits? In order to truly prevent the problem you would need to vent the pcv to atmosphere and then also block egr flow into the intake. Is that correct? And if so, why is no one making kits to do it and turn off any resulting check engine lights?
Yes, you are correct it would have to be vented to atmosphere to fully prevent. But the problem is with all of these vapors under the hood and being released into cabin and people will die from breathing in and it becomes a safety hazard. Back in 70s and earlier days that’s how it was done. Venting to the atmosphere is not ideal because of the emission and health.
@@repairvehicleI see, on my previous diesel that’s exactly what I did. I vented the crank case vent to down under the truck and then had an egr block installed. This kept the oil vapor from robbing the efficiency of the intercooler. On turbo diesels pickups, I never heard of intake valve deposits being a problem. Is that due to the heavier valve train that diesels require because of their higher compression ratios or is there another reason for intake valve deposits to be more of an issue on direct injected gas engines? I’ve been curious about this since I bought the telluride as it’s my first direct injected gas engine.
Modern diesel engines have ccv filters and helps big time control carbon build up issues like gdi has. Also, I believe big factor why diesel not known for carbon build up on valves is due to low speed they are operating and not creating all that crank case pressure.
I have been very interested in catch cans for my new DI vehicle.
I finally found a video that went into great detail on how, beyond the obvious collection of oil/gas blow by, a catch can effects the engine system. To summarize, a catch can with a baffle only, increased crankcase pressure by a factor of 2. And a catch can with a baffle and the sintered bronze filter found in most catch cans, increases crankcase pressure by a factor of more than 4. The test was done with new catch cans. Anything that restricts the intake manifold vacuum connection to the crankcase would be expected to do this and this video proved it.
I also found a video that showed oil spitting out of the oil fill cap (with cap removed) only when when a catch can was installed.
I would expect that debris that collect on the baffle or brass filter would only make this worst as time goes on. This would at least increase the likelihood that any crankcase seals (main bearing, main crank, valve covers, etc.) would leak. All manufacturers void the warranty if you install one.
All these videos show what a catch can collects but very few examined what damage they can cause. I will not be installing one anytime soon.
There’s another video where they run a catch can and the intake and valves are just as dirty but the carbon deposits are drier and even harder to clean than the deposits without the catch can. Good video, I won’t be installing a catch can on my wife’s Kia telluride
Thank you for sharing this information
Good video I’ve been tempted to get one of these… now absolutely not .
Please share this video with others
I installed a can recently on my 2014 F150 ecoboost(GDI) and i've gone over 2k miles and the same amount of black oil in the can about a quarter of an inch (no brownish sludge)caught hasn't changed in just under 500 miles when i first checked it. I drive it a good amount so, i don't know if it's hurting or helping. I guess i fell into "you need a catch can" crowd because of my GDI engine. Truck still runs great, but i did gain a mile and a half per gallon. Time will tell.
Thanks for sharing the video, i kept the OEM hose and can always put that back on.
@@CWB1863 don’t forget the output is on the high side vacuum of the intake manifold so find a way to a low vacuum side and the catch can will work better 😉
@@mahmoodal-bayati My can is mounted to the battery on the passenger side.I was told it was the best placement or easiest. I have caught more oil recently, so that's a plus.
Very interesting. I've never seen a test of that filth in the catch can before. It looks emulsified when you pour it out, so I figured there's water in it, but it's almost all water with trace oils. It proves this is catching things, but only volatile things like fuel, lighter molecules, and water. Not oil. Thanks for posting.
Any specific reason you used oil analyzers inc instead of blackstone labs for the oil analysis?
Outstanding question. Thank you for questioning attitude. Blackstone is not ISO certified lab. Oil analyzers is a place where to buy a kit, it’s not a lab. Oil analysis is done by Polaris lab and its ISO certified lab. polarislabs.com/retail-partners/
Outstanding question. Thank you for questioning attitude. Blackstone is not ISO certified lab. Oil analyzers is a place where to buy a kit, it’s not a lab. Oil analysis is done by Polaris lab and its ISO certified lab. polarislabs.com/retail-partners/
Great video! Amazing 👏
So what you're saying, not only it doesn't prevent carbon, it actually creates MORE carbon, because fuel and water vapor are actually pretty good at cleaning carbon, and the can catches those instead of letting them go over the intake valves.
You got it right!
If this were remotely true, why does direct port injection have such a problem with coked valves.
It is insane how wrong you can be with made up information and absolutely no evidence to back it up.
If you would watch video without skipping then you would comment differently, but you choose to be troll and reply to comments without knowing what is the video. You call others wrong but can’t provide alternative because you are a troll that did not watch video. Answer to your question in the video. Are you smart enough to watch first?
@@repairvehicle I watched the whole video. Not digesting your false claims is what I did do. Can you explain why burning more oil than is allowed to get by the rings is a good thing? Don't we want to have better control of emissions? How can you control burned oil emissions if there is an un metered amount getting sucked into the intake. The purpose of crankcase vent is to dampen pulsations. Not to dump oil vapor and water into the system. That is an an unfortunate symptom of PCV/CCV.
Keep trying though. You make no sense.
@LegendaryFarm84 , your statement makes no sense it proves you didn’t watch video, everything you said is not inline with video . Try again that makes sense and doesn’t align with troll logic. What false claims did I say?
Good thing i dont have catch can then. I just change oil 3-5k or 3 to 6 months
Catch .C can creates returning pressure that will cause problems on seals...provoking leak of oil by the way ...during freezing temperatures will be a block of ice ..even blocking the PVC valve passages if you are not aware it's completely full...means that you need to be checking !! During weather changes when humidity increases .. gets full faster !! So you need extra time. Good luck !! 🤞
Is it worth it in the Diesel Pickup world? 2020 Ram 3500 6.7 300k + miles
@@AngelRodriguez-ml7rh absolutely not
@repairvehicle Thank you for your response 🙏
What issues are you having with truck? Original engine and no repairs?
No issues, I'm just trying to make it last. added a Fass fuel system, Amsoil bypass kit,sinister diesel's coolant filter and i though a catch would protect rhe turbo from sooth.
@AngelRodriguez-ml7rh are you original owner?
Omg thank you ive been trying to convince people the truth since gdi and catch cans started coming available. Real catch cans were originally installed onto old school race engines to prevent oil from spraying out the valvecover breather ans onto the exhaust or onto the track. Many people have fallen victim to ingnorance and good advertising. Bottom line people, just change your oil every 3k miles with quality synthetic and keep up on engine maintenance that's all we can do.
Please share this video with others
Subscribed. Thank you. It is also good not to mix very thick oil with very thin oil to arrive at a medium thickness as the mixture will not be uniform like a medium grade/weight oil and the lighter oil molecules in the mix will tend to evaporate quicker.
Thanks for subbing
3k miles oil changes, leave everything stock and floor it from time to time
Floor it time to time is another fairytale like catch can that is based on nonsense and no facts to back it up
@@repairvehicleI never floor my car. Like literally, my floor mat only lets me go to 60% throttle lol. I run 12k-15k miles per oil change with amsoil signature and fram Ultra Synthetic and have less than 10 ppm iron in samples. 2010 ES350. I also pull a small trailer with a kayak and storage boxes across the mountains to Ohio and still no change in oil analysis. So yeah, flooring it didn’t do anything. I run fuel system cleaner through it every other oil change.
A frozen pcv system can cause brutal engine damage
Why would pcv system be frozen?
Water inside the catch can can freeze and the crankshaft oil seals leaves the chat
That is why you should check the can often in cold weather.
Did you take that sample from a forced induction engine? As far as I know, they are used for high performance engines to allow high pressure to escape the crankcase. Also an easy way to clean up an old engine bay.
Nope, I have shown in the video from where the sample came from. It pays to watch video first and comment.
thak you!
Hmm now using 5w30 on the 3urfe? Haha 😂
You notice that too.
No I don’t
Some do change but right now I'm sticking to 0W20...wish I could know for sure which one is the absolute best for the engine
Why are people so obsessed with catch cans? I never fell for that BS gimmick. Adding extra lines means more issues.
Did the 1 million-mile Tundra have a catch-can? I don't think so.
What a terrible false equivalence and detachment from reality.
@@LegendaryFarm84 what false information did he say?