Thanks for the true DIY there Fir Works, very much appreciated! I'm still reluctant to go after it cause I'm a scared of those carrier bolts but mebbe ... just mebbe ... Great details about jacking the car too! Thanks again!
You there, video creator, I would like to say I appreciate you posting this. I learned a lot about my car which is a variant of this but it applies to mine. thank you
Thanks for the video. Its no joke how tight those bolts are. I just broke my ratchet using the same method you did pushing with my feet after my impact wouldn't break it either.
Can't believe you guys got your impact back there... did you use extensions? Couldn't get mine to fit but didn't really try too hard with extensions. Used a 1/2 inch breaker bar and just kicked it over and over til the bolts broke free. 240,000 miles on this particular car and those things were STUCK!
Great video! Next time try grinding down the caliper bracket slightly enough at an angle. That will allow you to keep the bracket on and not have to go through all this labor trying to remove those stubborn bolts. The rotor will then slide right out and you will be able to put the new rotor in without removal of the bracket.
I just finished rear rotors and pads on 08 jetta SE. Foot push worked great on drivers side! Thank you. Right side had suspension (and jack stand) in the way and you cant get your body behind it. Get a 1/2 drive sliding TBar. Put your triple square on it. Once you have that all in line, smack the TBar with a hammer or something. I used a 1 x 8 galvanized pipe I had laying around. 5 hits and it was free. I was able to use a ratchet the rest of the way. This video was very helpfull until I got to the passenger side. Thank you! This is a PITA job.
Great video friend. excellent commentary and narration and very informational with tools and other details. Keep making videos and helping people. God bless you.
The problem with rust is you live in Central Illinois. I was born and raised there until leaving 33 years ago and remember the fight to keep machinery from rusting away. The caliper bracket bolts on all cars are installed dry or even with thread locker. The caliper slide pins are installed with synthetic brake grease so they will always be in better shape. Clean up the threads on the attach brackets and put on a little anti seize and reinstall. In the future you may want to consider coating the underside of your car in a thick oil that will help protect it.
My disc brake service kit came with TWO piston compression clamp screws marked LH & RH threads. Since the two rear brakes with auto park are mounted in a mirror image configuration, does that mean the pistons are arranged to require screwing-in in opposite rotation?
No, I didn't. Since it's a FWD vehicle, and I only had the rear lifted it isn't necessary to prevent it from rolling. As long as the drive wheels are on the ground, and the transmission is in park then the parking pawl in the transmission will hold it in place. Also if you had the park brake applied it would not be possible to remove the caliper as the piston would be pressing against the brake pads. You can chock the front wheels for added safety but the parking pawl should be sufficient.
OP, am attempting to work on the same car, and to compress the piston, I'm having a hell of a time. I noticed you did it effortlessly. I'm using the same piston compression tool, but its not budging. I performed a test to see if it was seized by gently pressing the brakes with the compression tool loosely applied, it depressed perfectly fine, but not in a spinning motion. Is the piston seized or could the calibration part of the caliper be trashed? your input would be much appreciated before I spend more money on a new caliper.
18:30 so what's the actual diameter of the rotor?? 260 mm ?? I'm on the verge of swapping my old rotors and pads but, Didn't know the size of the old rotors on my Jetta 2.5. So I called the dealership, gave them my VIN, and they said the front is 288/25 mm and the rears are 260/12 mm.
If you don't need to replace the rotor, then you can just remove one of the caliper bolts and loosen the other and swing it out to replace the pads. I needed to replace both so the caliper hanger had to come off.
for gods sake separate the slide boot and coat the slide in never seize! doing this will prevent the sliders from becoming stuck and prevent uneven clamping for thus, uneven break wear... other than that, thanks for posting the video.
coat mine with some crc silaramic (which is far too expensive), but what about inside the the boot/slide chamber? can you spray brake clean inside there? I didn't - just thoroughly cleaned the slides and then relubricated.
I just gave up on getting those stupid bolts out. My car is even rustier than yours. I would reuse the bolts but will certainly use antisieze on them. I think I may find a shop just to loosen those bolts so I can do the rest of the brake job at home.
Top video!! I just did same job on 2013 Golf Mk7. The same caliper bracket bolts are nearly impossible to remove!!! Awful design!!! I’m going to fit new bolts and grease them good!!! I’m sure they don’t need to be so tight, but VW are just over tightening them as a safety precaution!
I used the same caliper bolts and caliper carrier bolts every break job Which was ever 2 years because VW in their infinite wisdom decided to make the breaking bias 35front 65 back Anyway point being you can reuse bolts no problem
Thanks for the video. Its no joke how tight those bolts are. I just broke my ratchet using the same method you did pushing with my feet after my impact wouldn't break it either.
Yeah I could not believe how hard those suckers were to remove! I wonder if putting a bit of anti-seize on the new bolts would be a good solution. It's clear that there was some corrosion from dissimilar metals between the hub and the bolts.
@@Billionaire1998 Bruh, I've used a can of PB and a can of Liquid Wrench over a five day period. Still nothing with my breaker bar, impact, hammer, or heat. These bolts are no joke, proper tools or otherwise.
Thanks for the true DIY there Fir Works, very much appreciated! I'm still reluctant to go after it cause I'm a scared of those carrier bolts but mebbe ... just mebbe ...
Great details about jacking the car too! Thanks again!
Great video--helped me a lot. Loved your honest commentary (like when you said..."meaning I just forgot"...)!
You there, video creator, I would like to say I appreciate you posting this. I learned a lot about my car which is a variant of this but it applies to mine. thank you
Thanks for the video. Its no joke how tight those bolts are. I just broke my ratchet using the same method you did pushing with my feet after my impact wouldn't break it either.
F13SC I broke two ratchets, it’s a shame
Can't believe you guys got your impact back there... did you use extensions? Couldn't get mine to fit but didn't really try too hard with extensions. Used a 1/2 inch breaker bar and just kicked it over and over til the bolts broke free. 240,000 miles on this particular car and those things were STUCK!
Great video! Next time try grinding down the caliper bracket slightly enough at an angle. That will allow you to keep the bracket on and not have to go through all this labor trying to remove those stubborn bolts. The rotor will then slide right out and you will be able to put the new rotor in without removal of the bracket.
I just finished rear rotors and pads on 08 jetta SE. Foot push worked great on drivers side! Thank you. Right side had suspension (and jack stand) in the way and you cant get your body behind it. Get a 1/2 drive sliding TBar. Put your triple square on it. Once you have that all in line, smack the TBar with a hammer or something. I used a 1 x 8 galvanized pipe I had laying around. 5 hits and it was free. I was able to use a ratchet the rest of the way. This video was very helpfull until I got to the passenger side. Thank you! This is a PITA job.
Do you remember the triple square size
@@MarkDugan I'm pretty sure it's a 14mm (M14). I would have to check my tool box when I get home, but fairly certain.
Thank you so much for the name of that 14mm triple square and how the caliper tool works. Gonna save me a lot of headache.
Great video friend. excellent commentary and narration and very informational with tools and other details. Keep making videos and helping people. God bless you.
ECS Tuning blog has the M14 brake carrier bolts at 66ftlb plus 1/4 turn. Did anything happen when you stopped at 66ft lb?
Amazing video lots of little details that most wont bother to mention also glade you went over the things that may have been wrong. 👍👍👍
Loved how he instantly caught the rotor...(9:52)
Dexter Nelson was pretty badass
really good video! lots of detail and special thanks for sharing what got you stuck like 260 vs 272 diameter rotor!
The problem with rust is you live in Central Illinois. I was born and raised there until leaving 33 years ago and remember the fight to keep machinery from rusting away. The caliper bracket bolts on all cars are installed dry or even with thread locker. The caliper slide pins are installed with synthetic brake grease so they will always be in better shape. Clean up the threads on the attach brackets and put on a little anti seize and reinstall. In the future you may want to consider coating the underside of your car in a thick oil that will help protect it.
please add the tool list
My disc brake service kit came with TWO piston compression clamp screws marked LH & RH threads. Since the two rear brakes with auto park are mounted in a mirror image configuration, does that mean the pistons are arranged to require screwing-in in opposite rotation?
What Was the model number of your Milwaukee impact..looks like a 2767..if it was..wow! I am shocked that it could not break the m14 bolts off
Good video. Nice logical explanations.
My brakes are fixed and they don’t move at all unless I take off the torx bolts. I just wanted to change my brake pads but I guess not
Did you have the parking brake on as you were working on the brakes?
No, I didn't. Since it's a FWD vehicle, and I only had the rear lifted it isn't necessary to prevent it from rolling. As long as the drive wheels are on the ground, and the transmission is in park then the parking pawl in the transmission will hold it in place. Also if you had the park brake applied it would not be possible to remove the caliper as the piston would be pressing against the brake pads. You can chock the front wheels for added safety but the parking pawl should be sufficient.
OP, am attempting to work on the same car, and to compress the piston, I'm having a hell of a time. I noticed you did it effortlessly. I'm using the same piston compression tool, but its not budging. I performed a test to see if it was seized by gently pressing the brakes with the compression tool loosely applied, it depressed perfectly fine, but not in a spinning motion. Is the piston seized or could the calibration part of the caliper be trashed? your input would be much appreciated before I spend more money on a new caliper.
18:30 so what's the actual diameter of the rotor?? 260 mm ?? I'm on the verge of swapping my old rotors and pads but, Didn't know the size of the old rotors on my Jetta 2.5. So I called the dealership, gave them my VIN, and they said the front is 288/25 mm and the rears are 260/12 mm.
I called to dealer, asked by parts and specs, you need vin No.
Doin the same shit garbage cars
I saw another video where they left the caliper hanger alone, they just removed the caliper, popped the pads out and replaced, looked a lot less work.
If you don't need to replace the rotor, then you can just remove one of the caliper bolts and loosen the other and swing it out to replace the pads. I needed to replace both so the caliper hanger had to come off.
What's the length of the handle on that ratchet?
thanks. appreciate the different techniques applied :P
No musica bs interlude thank you sir
for gods sake separate the slide boot and coat the slide in never seize! doing this will prevent the sliders from becoming stuck and prevent uneven clamping for thus, uneven break wear... other than that, thanks for posting the video.
coat mine with some crc silaramic (which is far too expensive), but what about inside the the boot/slide chamber? can you spray brake clean inside there? I didn't - just thoroughly cleaned the slides and then relubricated.
I just gave up on getting those stupid bolts out. My car is even rustier than yours. I would reuse the bolts but will certainly use antisieze on them. I think I may find a shop just to loosen those bolts so I can do the rest of the brake job at home.
Top video!! I just did same job on 2013 Golf Mk7. The same caliper bracket bolts are nearly impossible to remove!!! Awful design!!! I’m going to fit new bolts and grease them good!!! I’m sure they don’t need to be so tight, but VW are just over tightening them as a safety precaution!
Might be better off using anti-seize on them.
I used the same caliper bolts and caliper carrier bolts every break job
Which was ever 2 years because VW in their infinite wisdom decided to make the breaking bias 35front 65 back
Anyway point being you can reuse bolts no problem
So front carrier is 90 torque I believe and rears are 66? Or am I wrong? I have 2016 1.8T Jetta
Thank u so much bro
Thanks for the video. Its no joke how tight those bolts are. I just broke my ratchet using the same method you did pushing with my feet after my impact wouldn't break it either.
Yeah I could not believe how hard those suckers were to remove! I wonder if putting a bit of anti-seize on the new bolts would be a good solution. It's clear that there was some corrosion from dissimilar metals between the hub and the bolts.
Yeah that is exactly what I did.
What is maximum torque of your impact gun?
just use valve cleaner or pb blaster on them and be smart and use the right tools
@@Billionaire1998 Bruh, I've used a can of PB and a can of Liquid Wrench over a five day period. Still nothing with my breaker bar, impact, hammer, or heat. These bolts are no joke, proper tools or otherwise.