Evinrude 150 outboard drive shaft seal, gear selector o-rings and water pump
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- In this video I change the driveshaft seal, gear selector o-rings and water pump on the Evinrude 150.
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I think I fixed all around my boat by watching Dangar Marine. Really good stuff. You actually use the tools that have hobbyist lying around to fix things. No torque wrench tools or presses or other BS that nobody has. Appreciate your videos! Keep them coming.
You're welcome mate. :)
Hey Dangar your are the best Im back on the lake with my 1990 90 HP Evinrude thanks to you from Nova Scotia
I love the way this guy always has a cold one nearby!
Your a life saver man. Love the detailed steps from you in every video you do. You have no idea how many people you really help sir. Thank you a million over!
I appreciate that! Thanks. :)
Thanks for all the lessons.
It is folks like you that give so many of us the knowledge and confidence to move forward with successful conclusions. Not to take your time with my whole ordeal so the short story is I got a 70 HP Evinrude 1986 (ish) (powerhead was replaced) and learned that the previous two owners never had the leg off, water pump replaced, for over 11 years. The local shop charged me $150 only to return the motor stating they couldn't get it off also. So, not being a guy that gives up easily.... yes, I got it off, repaired it and am now in the process of reinstalling the motor for a test run.
You are my go to reference material.
Ciao
It's always frustrating to be handed a bill without any improvement in the motor. :( Good on you for getting the job done yourself. I hope you told them! ;)
@@DangarMarine Thanks for the reply.
Yes I did bring them in the leg and they didnt care at all. Therefore, for $150 I now know for sure where "not" to be a customer and yes I sure will tell all that want to listen, not to go there. Their motto is, "money is the important thing, NOT the customer".
Have a good day Stu.
Thanks for this! A small tip, when I get to the step where the impeller goes into the housing, I usually just get it started and then use a zip tie around the impeller to bend the impeller blades in a bit. When the housing is pressed almost to the bottom of the plate, i just cut the zip tie off with a pair of side pliers and the impeller blades spring out. Works well on larger impellers.
the best Lower end rebuild video I have ever seen
If your sponsor is watching they should know I just bought my first boat (land lubber here, it's for lake use), and as this is my first boat and the outboard is from 1979 I didn't have the know-how to maintain it, or where to get parts, so Dangar Marine now has a new subscriber, and marineengine has a new customer in Canada.
Once again Dangar. Saved me a packet, I can do this myself and fix my water in gear oil issue.
Nice! Glad the video helped you. :)
MarineEngine.com has saved the day for me many times with their diagrams and the fact that they have all the parts needed for the job. I've tried sourcing through ebay but you need to buy from multiple retailers and then your shipping cost goes up. MarineEngine.com has been bookmarked for years on my computer.
Hey mate, glad to hear they been working for you. So far I've had nothing but complete success too. :)
Great detailed video's you post. I know my way around outboards since I was a kid thanks to my dad but it's always nice to look up a good detailed video to confirm and not miss anything. I blew the o-ring on the bearing carrier today.....1987 Johnson GT150. Ordering all the seals and o-rings, mind as well refresh. Everything else is in top shape.
Thanks again
You're welcome John, glad you liked the vids. :)
I am new to the boat world, been studying all i can. Your videos help me out so much. Thank you!!!
Happy to help!
Parents: What do you want to be when you grow up?
Me: Dangar Stu.
Thanks again for another detailed video!
LOL. Be careful what you wish for! Glad you enjoyed the vid. :)
Looks like a good life that's for sure
Regardless, you do a very good job with the videos. I watched them intently in spite of the fact I'm planning on a 40 to 60 for twin inboard. No one does videos about that kind of stuff so I still found yours very interesting. I've torn down and rebuilt maybe 5 or 6 auto engines years before UA-cam could have helped me. So I thank you for your sharing your experiences.
Thanks Carl, glad you've been enjoying the vids. It certainly does make things easier these days being able to google just about any job you need to do.
i love that MarineEngine.com is sponsoring you. i once got a set of throttle and gear select cables from them for my older outboard and one wasnt crimped so it fell apart. the warehouse it came from was only a hour from me so instead of making me wait for a new one to ship they arranged for me to go pick one up so i could be one the water the next day with my buddies. because of that i use them for all my parts. great vid once again.
Hey mate, glad to hear you got great service from them. It was a big part of my decision that they were such friendly people to talk to while I was looking around and it's even better to hear that follows through the whole company.
This is very true. Not trying to be a snob by by any means. I personally just think its a awesome gasket sealer. head's, Water pumps, Base gasket etc. I've definitely learned a lot on your channel. awesome work!!
No worries mate, I'll see if I can grab a can one day and give it a go. :)
Very happy to see you using marineengine! I have used them for a few years now and they are awesome!
Thanks Chris, glad you hear you've been getting great service from them. :)
Another great video Stu! Your vids have helped me to save not only cash from doing service myself, but time on the water as well, especially during the peak boating season when the repair shops get backed up.
That's interesting point about repairs shops being booked out during peak season, that's another great reason to go the DIY route. :)
That was a good call Stu showing how to navigate the parts online. That's how I find my Mercury parts and order them. Except for the reeds valves the service manual shows 2 different thicknesses. I called Mercury marine and the thicker reeds go on the 55hp. the 60hp takes the .008. They are good for answering questions over the phone which is great customer service.
Thanks Tim, I'm glad it was worth showing. I think it's an important part of the process that I've been skipping over until now.
Excellent tutorial on the website there Stu! Great to have you aboard!
Thanks Jake, it's great to be working with you guys. It all began with your offer to send a cap too. :)
glad you MarineEngine as a sponsor..both parties will benefit...great online catalog..
Your camera work has improved dramatically! The 'trick' of your off hand behind the one holding the part forcing the camera to auto focus on the part is really useful!
Good Job!
Thanks Tim. It's taken a while to learn about the film making side. I wish I knew it from the start so the early videos weren't so bad.
Tim Ho if you know AvE's channel at all, that little "use the hand to force the camera to focus" method has to be known as the "Focus, you FAK!" maneuver. :P
Awesome channel. I've had thoughts to move to a warmer climate and try working as a motorboat technician. These vids will help a lot. I might even start taking written notes.
Thanks mate, glad the vids have been helping you. I hope you follow your dream one day. :)
I swear every time I have a problem or question you upload a video related to it
It's all a part of the service we provide. ;)
New subscriber from south Florida here I know that this is an old video series but I just wanted to let you know how much you have helped me out.
I’ve recently picked up a beautiful Wellcraft walk around 22 With this exact 150 outboard on it The outboard wasn’t running so I was able to get the boat dirt cheap $1800 with galvanized double axle trailer
My original plan what’s the spend another 8 to 10,000 to re-power with a newer Etec
I was told that the Johnson was junk
However this video series gave me the confidence to get it running like new it now pushes my boat about 48 kn on a calm day off shore and I’ve trusted it enough to make the crossing to the Bahamas three times already I do have a Sea tow membership just in case anyway I just wanted to Xpress my gratitude for all of the time you took to put This content out I find it both informative and entertaining thanks again
Very interesting and you are a good teacher and instructor for sure mate
Thanks Rodolfo. :)
Thanks again !! I watch you before I do it myself! Cheers!👍
Hi Stu I haven't done any of these tasks yet but yesterday I had to try and remove the flywheel off a 50 Hp Mercury engine and after trying the traditional tools like a strap wrench which was to short i used one of your methods by using a coat hanger to capture the flywheel and it worked like a charm only thing was that I forgot to tell the friend who was helping me to crank hard on the ratchet when I say now so I got my finger hurt pretty bad a good chunk of meat gone but I'll survive, I'd show you the damage but its my middle finger and that just wouldn't be polite LOL
Ouch, sorry to hear about your accident Adrien, those types of things only every happen when I'm not wearing gloves. It's definitely harder to co-ordinate with a second person too. Hope it heals quickly!
These videos has me riveted infront of my computer. And they have helped me too. My Suzuki blew the impeller.
Parts ordered and the old one is already removed.
But since im male and hetero im ALWAYS alittle bit wary of having my o-ring pinched.....
Glad the vids have been helping. Pinching isn't so bad, it's when they get torn you really have to start worrying! ;)
You do such a Great job on your videos, I think I've watched all of them and I don't even own a Boat...LOL.... Saving my pennies for a Spray Booth like yours....
Thanks Eric. If you want you can borrow my spray booth whenever you need it. :)
Bummer.....I thought I just had to do the prop shaft seal....now I know there are about 10 other seals, gaskets, and O rings that I need. But thanks to you I have a chance at getting it right. I will get started building the spray booth first then order my parts. Another vote for employee of the month. I have some gasket and seals humor there too but I thought I had better keep it clean.....Thanks for the very informative video!!!!!
Hey Jim, the prop shaft seal is usually the main culprit as fishing line often gets in there and cuts the seal. Doing a pressure test on the gearbox will help you find the one that is leaking so you don't need to change others unnecessarily. Are you thinking of the mechanic that tells the walrus it looks like he's blown a seal and he says, no, I was just eating an ice cream? Good luck with your spray booth! :)
Now that was funny!
Ok so maybe thats the best plan of action. remove lower unit and pressure test first. I will have to buy or rig a pressure tester that I might never use again...but what the hell...I have plenty of tools that i never use. I would think i would have seen a little oil slick behind the boat if it was the prop shaft....but it is a fishing boat so certainly could have been fishing line in the prop seal. That being said the previous owner told me he had just done the lower unit oil and the water pump.....so after watching your vid....I can maybe assume......yes assume.....that he just changed out the impeller and maybe no O rings or gaskets......This repair is very cheap if i do it...and very expensive if someone else does it........so i guess its gunna be me! I would love to show you a few pics of my finished resto...how can I post them here?
Just bought all of my gaskets and seals via Marineengine.com. I have used them before and I am always very impressed with them. This is not a commercial for them but I am happy that you partnered with them. Their parts diagrams are easy to follow..and you can talk to a human on the phone every time.
Hey Stu....here is a follow up question for ya......If I was only going to replace the prop shaft seal and the large gear case O rings....is it ok to just leave the lower unit attached to the engine where it is stable and I can trim up and down as needed????
Thanks.......
Thanks again for your teaching. Have a great week Chris from the 🇺🇸 snowbelt
I like the calendar that you have on the wall behind you.
It has it's strengths. ;)
those oil seals always look loose, no matter what you do after a year. i've come to the conclusion water, 90% of the time, is getting in around the shift rod 0-rings or re-used drain and fill plugs, or a combo of both. both usually those 0-rings. i actually have a bunch of the older style shift rod covers i replace these with, as they only take one smaller 0-ring and make shifting friction slightly easier, plus they seem to keep water out better.
great vids man. hope you keep doing them. I do all my own boat work and for friends... you have become my "go to" source for info and "tips and tricks".. lol. thank you
Thanks Lucas, glad the vids have been helping you (and your friends!) :)
Superbe vidéo j'ai pu faire mon embase correctement merci. thank you.
Love the Wurth calendar in the background
Thank you for your videos, I learned a whole lot from you sir.
WOW time out...just noticed what appears to be a calendar in the back....please zoom in on that and flip the pages. :-)
Those were the good ol days of good calenders that didn't end up in landfill.
🎶🌺🎶You R A Champ !! Thanx !! From Oslo Norway 🚤⚙️⛵️🎶
You're welcome. :)
Nice work as usual Stu. I really like that calendar too.
Thanks Will! :)
Do a video on your bike! Maybe just an overview on this channel to gauge interest and then decide if another channel is a viable idea... I'm sure many of your viewers here would like to see your camping kit; if it fits on a bike, I'm sure it'll fit in a boat! I am doing some boat camping myself and would love to see what you bring along...
Hey Mike. I have been thinking of setting up a separate side channel for some bike related stuff, particularly touring camping. Interesting point though about the amount of gear you carry on a bike easily fitting in a boat too. I'll see if I can sneak in a mid-week video with a run down on it.
Thanks for the website. They have parts I was looking for.
Thanks for sharing . this is what I need to do on my old 70 Johnson.
I learned to always pack the oil seal with grease so it doesn't run without lube in the beginning and smoke the seal.
Stu - if you rotated the impellor backwards it unlocks it from shaft before the housing is removed :)
A zip tie around the impeller, to hold the bent the fins (the right way!), then snip it with sidecutters once the cover is over the top part.
If I had a shop is pull my outboard apart and give it a good tune up.
loving the spray booth! haha
loving the calender! 😉
I would put the calendar in the spray booth but I don't want it to get sticky. ;)
That comment was left wide open for interpretation, wasn't it.... lol
Stan, standard Aussie humor- double entendres are de jour here.
I just noticed the calendar on the wall in the background. LOL
If the engine doesn't start we'll know it's because the wrong grease was used and I liked the spray booth.
Phew! It started. Took me ages to save up for that spray booth. ;)
Fixed!
Proper job.
Fantastic and very informative. Thanks
You're welcome Nick. :)
so thanks teacher...
Rss.
great video.
ponta grossa city
brazil
You're welcome Carlos. :)
Another great vid Stu. I have an E150TXCEM that will need the same doing at some point so great to see how it's done. I also have ordered from Marine Engine.com and use their diagrams etc. Keep up the good work, love the 'spray booth'
Thanks Phil, home the job goes well for you when you give it a shot.
Great video! I have a 1999 Johnson 150hp 2 stroke and confirned leaks at drive shaft seal and shift linkage, but there is no leak at prop shaft seals. All original seals. I'll definitely replace the leaky ones, but is it okay to not touch the prop shaft seal. I'd rather not risk damaging the prop shaft if I don't need to. Thanks.
Thank you for what you do!
Guess congrats on having steady work, so much so you forget what you've already done per engine... So just like you forgot you were the one to pop in the O-ring on that oil seal (the spring was totally missing), but those two O-rings on the shifter didn't look that bad because they were brand new to begin with. You had changed them out when you freed up the stuck shaft.
Great video thanks. I cant beleive I got though 3/4 of the video before I saw the Naked blond in the background
Are you concerned at all about the deep-cut ring on your drive shaft? How would you sand that out?
I have a question. Do you have a video on how to replace or unstick a shift rod on a 1989 Evinrude 150XP?
Does that main gasket sometimes require silicone to keep it in place? When starting the impeller in every attempt so has grabbed the gasket and threw it out of whack
I know you made these years ago, but dammit they are guiding me through my 112spl rebuild. Ive been looking for the orientation of the upper drive shaft seal every where. I purchased a new a new upper drive shaft housing and the seal is shipped upsidedown. was confused for 3 days until I saw this. Thank you for all the detailed videos. Onlt question I have though, what torque do you tighten the water pump bolts? Or are they torqued at all?
Thank you !
Oh, one comment for all, buy the full manual for the motor you have, its invaluable and if your handy at all you just might be able to rebuild it. Well maybe. LOL.
I think I have big problems the shift shaft bolt must be rung off there is no bolt head there only see like a pin. Is this right and how could I fix to get the lower unit off? I have a 1994 115 hp Evinrude
I've got a Johnson 88 that has a snapped upper shaft. I'd like to replace the upper shaft but I can't figure out how to get the upper shaft separated from the lower shaft. It looks like a spline that just pushes in to the lower shaft. I've tried taking by strips clapping to What's Left of the upper shaft and tapping loose but it's stuck in the lower shaft housing pretty good. I'm thinking about applying some heat tomorrow and trying again. Is this the right thing to do? I appreciate any help. Thank you
Another very clear and useful Video Stu!, Great!. Related to this video, I would like to know further information about the assembling “gap” and its purpose on the Upper parts of gearcase transmission (axial bearings, washers and bearing housing cap). What is the "optimal" Gap between Shim washers (2) and the bottom face of the bearing housing top Cap (upper drive shaft side)? I would like to know if OMC/BRP indicates any particular value of gap for a new or used gearcase for instance, and what is the reason for it?... When I dissembled my Johnson 130-1996 gearcase for maintenance i measured 0,6mm of "light/gap" between top of the both shim washers (2x0.12mm) and bottom face of the bearing housing cap, is it OK or is too much separation? ... Should I add more Shim washers?.... I appreciate any help you can give me about this.
Thanks a lot!
The kit didn’t come with the o ring for the drive shaft ?
thanks for the video.
Love the second hand though =)
Dang you beat me to the comment!
well done mate good job
Thanks Chris!
My question is regarding the Driveshaft Seal on a 1993 Johnson 150. I see that you installed just 1 seal in the driveshaft bearing housing. (It must replace having to install the 2 seals) I have both that I could install. The 1 double type seal and the individual 2 seals. Can you please tell me if it's best practice to install the 2 seals (Johnson Part numbers 0329922 and 0329923) as shown in the schematic for Johnson Evinrude BRP 1993 150 25"shaft counter rotation. or just the 1?
Sir can the lower unit drive shaft rotaion from clock wise to counter clock wise? Tia
Another great vid Stu...and I must concur , the months on that calendar keep getting better and better. Nice one Wurth !! Quick question.. if you antifoul the bottom of the Evinrude leg will you use the Trilux 33 or is that just for hulls ?
Personally I preferred May, but that's just me. ;) I would definitely use Trilux 33 on anything like a gearbox that is made from aluminium even though the paint should theoretically protect it from other antifouls.
Nice vid Stu. I just pulled the water pump off my spare Johnson 70. The drive shaft oil seal looks fine, although a little bit of chalky stuff sprinkled around it. I was thinking of vacuuming it out, cleaning it properly and putting a coating of grease on it to keep it protected and supple. Do you see any merit in this or does it need to be kept dry?
Cheers.
So that play on the impellar isnt a big deal?? I have that same play
Johnno 99 90hp Gearbox broken tooth somewhere.
In your experience does it usually cause damage to other components ?
Great site, easy to watch and learn.
Kind Regards
you fixed the second had on your tire clock yet?
Can I use a high grit sandpaper to get the rest of the gasket off the shift shaft case? Thank you for the video
what is that that you are "winding out" at 7:11 of this video?? is it the shift shaft connecting rod??
I just drained the engine oil on my Suzuki df70 and saw a very faint white in with the oil color. I did hit a rock with the prop. Guessing this might be my issue. Question is, I used the engine for about an hour or two in low RPMS after since noticing this. The white was so light, do you think my engine is safe? Took it to the dealer where they are going to charge me my soul to find out what it is and fix. Any help here would be nice…. Thank you! 💪🏼
That level of oil contamination won’t have done any harm.
Great video Stu! I liked the way you showed how to navigate the marineengine.com site, it looks packed full of good info! Since we're talking about lower units, one question that always seems to come up in discussion with people I talk with is aluminum vs stainless propellers. Some say an aluminum prop will save your lower unit and prop shaft if you strike an underwater object but a stainless prop will destroy your lower because it has no give. Some say it doesn't matter if you have a stainless prop because the hub will rip apart if you strike an underwater object and it's an old wives tale that the stainless prop will damage your lower. I know if you hit something hard enough, you'll do damage no matter what! I own both types of props for my Yamaha 150. Not sure if I should put the three blade SS prop on there or the three blade aluminum. What do you think? Anyone else that reads this, what's your take on the aluminum or SS prop preference?
Hi Jack, I personally think that the hub should do it's job, plus the skeg should protect the prop from a high speed collision going forward in most cases. It won't protect you from reversing into something but that is generally a lower speed collision. I've never owned a stainless prop but almost every aluminium prop I see is deformed after a year or so of service. I did see a fracture through a stainless prop once but I welded it up and kept going just fine after that.
Dangar Marine Thanks so much for the explanation Stu. I'll mount the stainless on the Yamaha 150 with confidence. The aluminum prop will be my backup!
Muito bom ❤ obrigado pela aula
Hey I have a 2000 Johnson 50 outboard and I was wondering how many counts and turns does it need for the shift rod? Thanks
You will need the service manual to find out the measurement. It is done by the height of the eye in the rod. There is a video on the process setting shift linkage height.
Did you ever do a carb rebuild video on the Evinrude 150 Ocean Runner...?
watching this video, I realized that water is actually between the prop shaft housing and the base plate where the impeller sucks in the raw water. Meaning the space between water pump and driveshaft housing is not water tight.
So it is the drive shaft seal and drive shaft housing seal, keeping water out of lower unit.
Water pump housing seal under base plate just keeps suction for impeller tight.
When reading, a bad water pump housing seal is the cause of water in lower unit, is miss information then.
Am I thinking this through the right way?
Yes, you are right. A bad base plate seal won't allow water into the gearbox.
love your channel and videos..... Why do i have pressurized hot water coming from the front drain hole on the gear case on an Evinrude E60TLESM ? any ideas?
Sounds like the water that has been through the motor and is not exiting down through the exhaust is coming out there. It could be a problem with a seal around the exhaust or a corrosion hole in the exhaust.
Do you worry about torqueing these fasteners to spec? Most mechanics I know just go with "it feels tight enough" unless it's an extremely critical component like full engine rebuilds etc.
Hey Seth. No, no so much on there plastic parts. You are looking for even pressure on all the fasteners to make sure it seals all the way around. I only really get concerned with torque specs on cylinder heads.
I realise it’s been a while now...
but their website says they only ship and sell to the US now?
Any recommendations for aussies to get parts?
Or just use freight forwarding 🤔
Freight forwarding would be a way to go, otherwise I just go to the local outboard dealers.
Hey, same spray booth I have! If you ever work out the part number for the bug filters let me know please.
Will do! ;)
Just in case some are following this, the manual says to seal cup into housing with RTV , probably to prevent vibration and extra wear, step skipped* but true, don’t forget the 0ring inside outa sight ✅
Thanks!
Welcome! Thank you for supporting the channel!
I checked out the Marine Engine website. Very slick. However, it says they only ship to the USA. Did they ship to Canada/Australia etc etc once upon a time?
They did a few years ago, but they have since been limited to the US region by their suppliers.
Great and well informative. Is this the same outboard that you have replaced the pistons.
Sorry, but can you repeat all that? I was too busy looking at the boat picture in the back ground, nice cushions on it
Hello Dangar Stu.
Thank for your very interesting and helpful videos.
My name is Mark from South Africa.
I have a Johnson 115HP V4 2004, serial number J115PLSRC motor, and I followed your video pretty much point by point, however when I removed the drive shaft seal plate my drive shaft lifted up slightly and it seems like it’s pulled out/ away from the gears in the box and now I can feel it running on top of the gears and not meshing.
How do I relocate the shaft back with the gears without have to strip the lower end?
I have an issue of gear fluid leaking out of my water intake holes not a lot of lube but i noticed it, was wondering if you ever had a motor with this issue and maybe a possible place or places to start investigating have a 2002 mercury ELPTEFI 4stroke
Sounds like maybe the driveshaft oil seal has failed.
What kind of grease is used?
Dangar, I have a 1986 Yamaha 30esj and I had a leak in the Shift Shaft boot. The boot has a metal washer on the inside of the boot and that particular washer will not fit over the threads at the end of the shift shaft. Do you have any idea of how this boot comes off the shaft? I can rip the old boot off but the washer will still be on the shaft. If you have any experience with this particular motor I would greatly appreciate your advice.
Hi Brad. Can't say I've had that specific problem, but you may find the boot can be hooked under the existing washer. If not, you may need to remove the shift shaft from the gearbox and slide it all down past the other end, although I would expect that to be threaded too. If you look your outboard up on a parts website the diagrams might shed some light on the way to do it.
Dangar Marine, Thanks for the reply. I have looked at the diagram but it doesnt show which way it comes off or on. The bottom of the shaft has the part that pushes against the dog clutch with a pin holding it on. I spoke with a local Mechanic today and he said to just leave the exsiting washer on the shaft. When the new rubber boot arrives, I will give it a shot. Thanks again bud.
Hi Stu,
Just wondering if you can order from marine engine because they are a sponsor.
I went to order a few parts, and believe that they don't supply to overseas people.
If I'm wrong, I hope you enlighten me, as their quoted prices are so much better than I have found on the NSW central coast.
Finding your instruction very helpful, with my eventual rebuild of a 30 Evinrude.
All the best to you and yours at this crazy time.
Take care.
Unfortunately not, they can't ship outside the US.
@@DangarMarine Hi stew, how come Australians cant order from the site because correct me if I'm wrong but don't you live in Australia and order parts from the website?? thanks in advance :)
Hi Stu ,
Please add a segment in your UA-cam post explaining to people living outside of America that the parts cannot be sent to them.
You live in Australia central coast area not far from me so I find your post very misleading .