these are the older 1992 and older v4/v6 gearcases that use the snap rings. the newer ones don't have those so no special pliers needed. cheers great video!
Very clear and useful Video Brandon!, Great!. Related to this video, I would like to know further information about the assembling “gap” and its purpose on the Upper parts of gearcase transmission (axial bearings, washers and bearing housing cap). What is the "optimal" Gap between Shim washers (2) and the bottom face of the bearing housing top Cap (upper drive shaft side)? I would like to know if OMC/BRP indicates any particular value of gap for a new or used gearcase for instance, and what is the reason for it?... When I dissembled my Johnson 130-1996 gearcase for maintenance i measured 0,6mm of "light/gap" between top of the both shim washers (2x0.12mm currently) and bottom face of the bearing housing cap, is it OK or is too much separation? ... Should I add more Shim washers?.... I appreciate any help you can give me about this. Many Thanks!
well you need the pinion height tool to get the gear lash setup correctly. without it, most are rebuilt too tight which will destroy it. just follow the spec in the manual for pinion height, and re-use the original shims
I just did mine. I used 3 large snap hooks i bought at home depot $2.50 each(marine section) and some chain. A puller from auto parts store. Open up the small end of the snap hook(where rope would go) that is what will hook around the 3 supports of the carrier. The top support is a little smaller than the other 2 so I had to adjust the hook by putting it in a vice and hammer it down. This way all chain lengths were 3 links. Removed long puller hooks off of the puller and used the shackles to connect the 3 chain pieces. I had to widen the link that went to the hook as it wouldn't fit through. 1983 Johnson 40...once ready had it out in 5 minutes
One may be able to save the cost of the puller. I was having a difficult time with my 2007 150 hp Etec, M2 lower unit. From my understanding these bearing carriers are pressed in. I used a hefty puller, and even used heat, to no avail. I saw a video where the guy made an air adapter and threaded it into the oil plug hole, and use compressed air to get the stuck carrier out. I was skeptical, but desperate, so I tried it. As I was applying air to check for any leaks, the carrier popped out and was air borne for about 3 ft. Surprised me, so I'm not sure how much pressure I had on it. Very impressive method.
Hey Brandon! Great video! I found the puller in your list but no legs! Do you have a link to that? I notice oil dripping out of my prop casing. It does not appear to be coming from the oil seal around the prop shaft, I believe the big o-ring around the bearing assembly could be leaking. Would that cause fresh oil to slowly pool up back in there?
He should mentioned that his video was for demonstration purposes only. Obviously that lower unit was pre-disassembled before he made that video. Everything was coming off way to easily! Not to helpful for someone that wants to try this at home. Your video shows the reality of the job and the correct tooling to get the job do right! Your the man!! Now you can come over and help me with my 1987 200Xp Evinrude. 🤣🤣
Hey Brandon. I have some questions. I lost reverse in mine. Pulled reverse gear and it look’s perfect. One thing I noticed is when I checked my shifter rod length it was way short by 1/2”. But my neutral position has a lot of play in it. I checked another unit I had and it doesn’t have that play in it. I removed the prop shaft and assembly. All looks good with gears and clutch dogs. I removed the shifter part that the rod threads into and found the slot worn. I’m thinking this is my problem. Your thoughts?
Hey Buddy that guy is a poser. You, my friend, are the real deal. I know. I've worked on enough OMC 800's to know what it really takes to battle these things into submission. You are the best and don't worry about what anybody else thinks or says. You da' man. Thanks for all the honest videos...
Hello, I'm in the process of buying a new lower unit for my 1998 Johnson 225hp V6 Looper but the lower unit that I'm buying is complete minus the upper half of the drive shaft and the shift rod. My question is how do I install the upper drive shaft in my new lower unit. I've looked through a ton of videos and absolutely none of them show the removal or installation of an OMC 2 piece drive shaft. Please help. Thank you
on reassembly are the snap rings in separate slots or on top[ of each other? Im having a hard time bolting the bearing housing back on so I am thinking the snap rings aren't in far enough..
I am needing to replace the pinion and forward gear. I have it mostly torn down. Can I do the shim job without buying the omc tool or? Thanks. Awesome video! (mine is 94 Johnson 150)
No, not quite. That is the bad part of this. You can buy a used one, or use one of the shimming services on ebay, or buy the tool and sell it when you're done; problem is you might have it for awhile until it sells)
What are the part numbers for the legs of the carrier puller....I have a V6 Evinrude 1986 LU that doesn't have the two 1/4x20 holes to pull it out. It is like this. Help
Sir I used on my 1977 75 hp needle pliers lol but it sure as hell took me 200 tries or so lol . I had my gears blowing up and replaced it . I cant seem to put the rings back in only can put the top snap ring there isn't enough room I ripped all of it out a couple times now and no Luck can you shine some light on it plz
I have a question I have a Johnson gt150 v6 and I tore the lower end apart to clean. It was full and mud and grit. But when I pulled the drive shaft up and out. There where all kinds of little metal pins. Like in a bearing fell out. Is there post to be a bearing in the bottom close to where the pinion gear is.
yes, thats exactly what it was. Were they small small, or a little larger rollers? The larger you can just pack full of grease and reassemble. The small ones, need to replace the bearing.
Hey Brandon went through your video and took my 120 hp evinrude apart and found that my drive shaft is broke and it broke at the gear how do I get it out or get the nut off
Oh no, thats probably just the most expensive. You'll need a puller, The snap ring pliers, Driveshaft socket, Possibly a driveshaft puller (Usually you wont) Seal installer tools (if done right) and of course the shimming tool.
You picking apart that guys video. ..you are wrong!!! I have same motor as him and followed video. I bought a long pair of needle nose pliers from harbor freight $4 ground tips down and worked great! Drive shaft nut was tight, I stuck a wrench on it and a regular deep well socket over splines. It did take a little force to get it loose. To pull carrier bearing, I rented puller from O'Reilly's and bought two pieces of threaded rod from Menards. All worked great. As for water pump housing and such yes it did look as though he already had it loose but still helpful. Yes your expensive snap ring pliers would of made it easier but I got it with the needle nose. Wasn't as easy as he made it look but still worked good. I did also enjoy your video.
Also I could not get the pinion gear to fall out or prop shaft to pull out without putting it in reverse. I messed around forever trying to get it to fall out went back to video( "where he made it look like a piece of cake ") seen I needed to put it in reverse. After I put it in reverse it took me 2 second! Definitely needs to be in reverse on that unit anyway! You are picking apart that video and you have no idea what you are talking about! Not sure why you felt the need to do that
Well, I wouldn't say I was wrong, guy didn't mention grinding down the tips. Im probably going to try that next time though. On a side note, no threaded holes on this carrier, need the hooks for this V6 type.
Can you take the lock nut off and remove the pinion gear to get the shaft and dog clutch out and forward gear reverse gear without having to take the water pump and shift rod out
No, It has to come off to get the drive shaft out, which allows the pinion to come out, which allows the forward gear to come out (if the shift rod is removed)
Ok I was hoping I could avoid the shift rod housing and drive shaft but I guess that's what holds it in after watching your videos I can see why I will def regrease everything. Should I at least re o ring everything or just go ahead and reseal everything since I will have everything apart. Your videos are very helpful and knowledgeable
Thank you for your video. I learned a lot by watching. Have you ever listened to yourself? We cannot hear what you are saying. You mumble a lot and then you walk away while you are talking. It would be so much better if you would speak clearly if possible and try to talk where we could hear and understand . Sorry, it just the way I see it.
these are the older 1992 and older v4/v6 gearcases that use the snap rings. the newer ones don't have those so no special pliers needed. cheers great video!
Love your videos. Super detailed. Did you ever rebuild this unit? You should do a video of a full rebuild of the v4/v6 lower units.
Very clear and useful Video Brandon!, Great!. Related to this video, I would like to know further information about the assembling “gap” and its purpose on the Upper parts of gearcase transmission (axial bearings, washers and bearing housing cap). What is the "optimal" Gap between Shim washers (2) and the bottom face of the bearing housing top Cap (upper drive shaft side)? I would like to know if OMC/BRP indicates any particular value of gap for a new or used gearcase for instance, and what is the reason for it?... When I dissembled my Johnson 130-1996 gearcase for maintenance i measured 0,6mm of "light/gap" between top of the both shim washers (2x0.12mm currently) and bottom face of the bearing housing cap, is it OK or is too much separation? ... Should I add more Shim washers?.... I appreciate any help you can give me about this.
Many Thanks!
well you need the pinion height tool to get the gear lash setup correctly. without it, most are rebuilt too tight which will destroy it. just follow the spec in the manual for pinion height, and re-use the original shims
Thanks for going through the trouble to make this video brother.
Thank you for being truthful about all the stuff you do …. I appreciate it 🤗
I just did mine. I used 3 large snap hooks i bought at home depot $2.50 each(marine section) and some chain. A puller from auto parts store. Open up the small end of the snap hook(where rope would go) that is what will hook around the 3 supports of the carrier. The top support is a little smaller than the other 2 so I had to adjust the hook by putting it in a vice and hammer it down. This way all chain lengths were 3 links. Removed long puller hooks off of the puller and used the shackles to connect the 3 chain pieces. I had to widen the link that went to the hook as it wouldn't fit through. 1983 Johnson 40...once ready had it out in 5 minutes
Put it back in ! There are no videos on that at all and I'm struggling .
One may be able to save the cost of the puller. I was having a difficult time with my 2007 150 hp Etec, M2 lower unit. From my understanding these bearing carriers are pressed in. I used a hefty puller, and even used heat, to no avail. I saw a video where the guy made an air adapter and threaded it into the oil plug hole, and use compressed air to get the stuck carrier out. I was skeptical, but desperate, so I tried it. As I was applying air to check for any leaks, the carrier popped out and was air borne for about 3 ft. Surprised me, so I'm not sure how much pressure I had on it. Very impressive method.
Well I know what Im trying next time, that sounds great.
Hey Brandon! Great video! I found the puller in your list but no legs! Do you have a link to that? I notice oil dripping out of my prop casing. It does not appear to be coming from the oil seal around the prop shaft, I believe the big o-ring around the bearing assembly could be leaking. Would that cause fresh oil to slowly pool up back in there?
everythingoutboards.com/brp/tools/353803.html
He should mentioned that his video was for demonstration purposes only. Obviously that lower unit was pre-disassembled before he made that video. Everything was coming off way to easily! Not to helpful for someone that wants to try this at home. Your video shows the reality of the job and the correct tooling to get the job do right! Your the man!! Now you can come over and help me with my 1987 200Xp Evinrude. 🤣🤣
Hey Brandon. I have some questions. I lost reverse in mine. Pulled reverse gear and it look’s perfect. One thing I noticed is when I checked my shifter rod length it was way short by 1/2”. But my neutral position has a lot of play in it. I checked another unit I had and it doesn’t have that play in it. I removed the prop shaft and assembly. All looks good with gears and clutch dogs. I removed the shifter part that the rod threads into and found the slot worn. I’m thinking this is my problem. Your thoughts?
Hey Buddy that guy is a poser. You, my friend, are the real deal. I know. I've worked on enough OMC 800's to know what it really takes to battle these things into submission. You are the best and don't worry about what anybody else thinks or says. You da' man. Thanks for all the honest videos...
Hello, I'm in the process of buying a new lower unit for my 1998 Johnson 225hp V6 Looper but the lower unit that I'm buying is complete minus the upper half of the drive shaft and the shift rod. My question is how do I install the upper drive shaft in my new lower unit. I've looked through a ton of videos and absolutely none of them show the removal or installation of an OMC 2 piece drive shaft. Please help. Thank you
Folks in johnson fourm or group in face book are talking about your channel I told them when they said that u r my go to guy to learn
Longreach pliers also work for the clips. Heated up the handles and bend them straight. Grinded a slot in each tip. $4
Email me a photo?
Sent to business email.
on reassembly are the snap rings in separate slots or on top[ of each other? Im having a hard time bolting the bearing housing back on so I am thinking the snap rings aren't in far enough..
Hey mate do you have a video for rebuilding a 2007 175 evinrude etec lower unit thanks
I like mine mint also
they make a set of pliers that will work ABN 1934 × 1 you will need to take off the lock bar but they are only about 35 bucks
Hi I've totally rebuilt my 89 48. Lower unit. Should I take it apart after 7 seasons to check/adjust the gear lash ? Oil is clear and dry. Bill
Never heard of that being a maintaince thing before.
I can not get the pinion gear to fall out. Evinrude 75 E75trl. Unit was seazed pinion and forward gear are trashed
I made a puller with hooks and all thread welded
I am needing to replace the pinion and forward gear. I have it mostly torn down. Can I do the shim job without buying the omc tool or? Thanks. Awesome video! (mine is 94 Johnson 150)
No, not quite. That is the bad part of this.
You can buy a used one, or use one of the shimming services on ebay, or buy the tool and sell it when you're done; problem is you might have it for awhile until it sells)
What are the part numbers for the legs of the carrier puller....I have a V6 Evinrude 1986 LU that doesn't have the two 1/4x20 holes to pull it out. It is like this.
Help
you don’t no what you do man
Hey boss, you didn't list the puller hooks. Where can I get them?
Sir I used on my 1977 75 hp needle pliers lol but it sure as hell took me 200 tries or so lol . I had my gears blowing up and replaced it . I cant seem to put the rings back in only can put the top snap ring there isn't enough room I ripped all of it out a couple times now and no Luck can you shine some light on it plz
Gears properly meshed?
The froward housing all the way in?
Who do you take apart a trim/tile motor
I have a question I have a Johnson gt150 v6 and I tore the lower end apart to clean. It was full and mud and grit. But when I pulled the drive shaft up and out. There where all kinds of little metal pins. Like in a bearing fell out. Is there post to be a bearing in the bottom close to where the pinion gear is.
yes,
thats exactly what it was.
Were they small small, or a little larger rollers?
The larger you can just pack full of grease and reassemble. The small ones, need to replace the bearing.
Do you have to disassemble all of this just to replace the clutch dog?
Yes, sure do.
@@BrandonsGarage alright thanks
do you have a video on how to put the motor back together again
Not on this motor, no.
Hey Brandon went through your video and took my 120 hp evinrude apart and found that my drive shaft is broke and it broke at the gear how do I get it out or get the nut off
It broke at the pinion?
I cannot make out the name on the pull bars. What are they called and where can you buy them? Tks
www.everythingoutboards.com/brp/tools/353803.html
Today I noticed someone glued my exhaust thing also I wire wheel it all new
So not too bad if thats the only “special tool” I have to buy.
Where do buy (or suggest) to buy the pinion and forward gear? Thanks again!
Oh no, thats probably just the most expensive.
You'll need a puller,
The snap ring pliers,
Driveshaft socket,
Possibly a driveshaft puller (Usually you wont)
Seal installer tools (if done right)
and of course the shimming tool.
You picking apart that guys video. ..you are wrong!!!
I have same motor as him and followed video. I bought a long pair of needle nose pliers from harbor freight $4 ground tips down and worked great! Drive shaft nut was tight, I stuck a wrench on it and a regular deep well socket over splines. It did take a little force to get it loose. To pull carrier bearing, I rented puller from O'Reilly's and bought two pieces of threaded rod from Menards. All worked great. As for water pump housing and such yes it did look as though he already had it loose but still helpful.
Yes your expensive snap ring pliers would of made it easier but I got it with the needle nose. Wasn't as easy as he made it look but still worked good.
I did also enjoy your video.
I can send you photos if you like
Also I could not get the pinion gear to fall out or prop shaft to pull out without putting it in reverse. I messed around forever trying to get it to fall out went back to video( "where he made it look like a piece of cake ") seen I needed to put it in reverse. After I put it in reverse it took me 2 second! Definitely needs to be in reverse on that unit anyway! You are picking apart that video and you have no idea what you are talking about! Not sure why you felt the need to do that
Well, I wouldn't say I was wrong, guy didn't mention grinding down the tips. Im probably going to try that next time though.
On a side note, no threaded holes on this carrier, need the hooks for this V6 type.
Can you take the lock nut off and remove the pinion gear to get the shaft and dog clutch out and forward gear reverse gear without having to take the water pump and shift rod out
No, It has to come off to get the drive shaft out, which allows the pinion to come out, which allows the forward gear to come out (if the shift rod is removed)
Ok I was hoping I could avoid the shift rod housing and drive shaft but I guess that's what holds it in after watching your videos I can see why I will def regrease everything. Should I at least re o ring everything or just go ahead and reseal everything since I will have everything apart. Your videos are very helpful and knowledgeable
Would you sell that unit I need a working one
Was used to repair another unit; and its long gone.
Whats wrong with yours?
Apple tree mechanic lol
Thank you for your video. I learned a lot by watching. Have you ever listened to yourself? We cannot hear what you are saying. You mumble a lot and then you walk away while you are talking. It would be so much better if you would speak clearly if possible and try to talk where we could hear and understand . Sorry, it just the way I see it.
O