You certainly had your hands full on this one. The fiddle fairies had been in there for sure with the intake seal. That oil looks like it had never been changed. Great job as always. I love the narration.
Thank you for this video- I was about to pull my hair out with starting my mower, and I found out the choke was stuck open. I really appreciate the time and effort you took to make this. Thanks for the help
Hey bro, what's up? I believe that the previous owner of this mower tried to see if they could of serviced it for themself but ended up doing more harm than good and just gave up eventually. Being the skilled person you are, you was able to identify and resolve the problems with this mower and saved it from the scrap yard and gave it a second chance at being useful to someone else.
Your hard start may require adjusting the valve train or the flywheel keyway may have been compromised by a hard hit on an object in the lawn. Either is an easy fix, you already did the major stuff that only a skilled mechanic could have resolved. Awesome video.
One of my friends gave me one of these "ready start" TB110's that he found at the recycling center. Very low hours but the carburetor was beyond hope so I ordered the primer bulb version of the carb for about $15 on a gamble. I think the better needle valve has four faces and a Viton tip. Oiled foam probably does reduce performance but gas economy is best near the bottom end of the torque curve ~2400 anyway. Still using my 25 year old L head till the new magneto and blade are paid off. Thank you for the video!
This video combined with some good advice got my mower working again. That was a nice trick you showed with the drill to get it spinning again. Ultimately my carburetor needed cleaning and that’s what solved the problem.
Mine quit running yesterday with half of my yard to go. It would start up fine and then sputter out after a second or two. I disassembled and cleaned the carburetor, changed the air filter and spark plug, filled the tank with brand new ethanol free gasoline and and changed the oil. I really fixed it. Now it won't start at all. But in defense of the TB110. I've been using this mower for close to a decade now. I will fix it.
It's a reliable Little engine that lawn mower made me so much money. Yeah it may be cheap but I had that lawn mower since 2013 no problems. Only thing now the pull string is getting weak which is normal over time. Mines also was garage kept. It's been a few times when I cut a acre or two with that little lawn mower and I'm still using it to this day 😆
At 4:25, some may not know, but behind this U shaped carb. support bracket is another o-ring. I have found a couple allowing a small vacuum leak causing a bit of rpm fluctuation. good video!
Awesome video ... I am going to go through my mower step by step to check everything you showed us ... because my mower is identical to yours all the way to not starting ... I changed the spark plug and though it was filthy it didn't help .. still won't start ... Again thank I will ck everything first thing tomorrow morning... 😊 Angel
I obtained a similar mower with a wheel that didn't spin properly....rust on the axle sleeve. The plastic hub was grinding on the splined insert. I made the mistake of using vise-grip pliers to grip and attempt to spin / loosen the metal sleeve. I did not realize how brittle the insert was. It broke into a couple pieces. I used wet/dry sandpaper to remove the rust, glued the insert pieces back together with superglue and carefully pressed it back into the plastic wheel. I then greased the spindle and carefully put the wheel back onto the axle, making sure that it rotated FREELY. I like the idea of brake fluid as a penetrant. Thanks
Great work again Hopefully you cleaned out the part of carb closest to the engine. It seemed really dirty after running it with the misplaced o-ring. I also see quite some bad repairs where you ask yourself how did they not get it. Often parts put back in the wrong order. Last one a husqvarna height adjustment assembly right rear wheel 😢
Great! Appreciate your video. I have a TB100 and it would not start. Usually I spray starter fluid in it but not being used for a few months it would not start/stay on. I was able to take the parts apart from carb (thanks to your help) and clean out the jet, misc items. [I did replace the fuel before I began this project but still would not start or stay on - just the shot of starting fluid]. I reassembled the carb, blow out other areas, checked wheels. Put fuel in, primed a few times and STARTED RIGHT UP ON FIRST PULL - no leaking fuel, runs great. Again APPRECIATE YOUR VIDEO! I figured there was a carb issue and could of bought one but I tell myself you wont learn anything like that so I gave it a shot. Carbs dont cost that much but now I know whats inside of there. Got a backup lawn mower that I have to spray starter fluid to get it going so later I will take that carb apart too.
All this pulling (happy 5th) reminds me of the vacuum chokes on the older flatheads before the bi-metalic strip assists. The dashpot would pull the choke open every time the engine was pulled which worked fine when it was cold but starting out with a closed choke loaded it to death when warm. The only way I could find to overcome this last jag was to pull it and keep the motor turning enough to keep the engine turning steady to overcome the vacuum and the choke to stay open. No wonder I talk to myself but this was years ago since the 'All Climate' bi-metalic choke setup came out in 85 on the 4 horse Briggs which works wonderfully, yet and still. 2nd pull all the time, cold or hot and usually 1st when hot. Blessings!
13:47 Six years ago, a mower like this probably would have driven me to reel and/or electric mowers. Back then, I had a mower that started to sputter and stall just a couple years after buying it. I didn't know what I was doing, so I tried a few different things--removing and cleaning the carburetor, replacing the primer base, cleaning the spark plug--but I did not successfully fix it until I swapped in the carb from another mower (both mowers had Briggs & Stratton quantum flatheads). Despite finally succeeding, all that aggravation led me to try both reel and electric mowers, as I did not yet realize that switching to either one would amount to trading one set of problems for another.
I was surprised you didnt check the spark plug considering that there didnt seem to be any matainence ever performed on it. Mine is fairly new (1-2 yrs old) oil is clean and i went thru the carb last year before I put it to rest for the winter. Today, when I started it, it ran good for a couple minutes, then when i tried to mow a large clump os grass, it sort of petered out, then wouldn't start. Then, the full tank of gas began to drip out of the carb cover. It was stored with no gas during winter. The plug looks good with gas on it. I took the carb off and retightened everything. It is no linger leaking and started once at a very low RPM. I might try the drill to turn the engine over like you did.
@lewiemcneely9143 I didn't think you would hear me from there 🤣 The linkage was the funny part for me, when I see things like that, I start expecting drywall screws holding parts on. 🙄
@@GuysPlayingWithTools I've got selectric hearing when it works. On the Snapper I put the Kawasaki motor on, the nice fancy plastic coated with the pot metal ends cable from the handle to the belt tightener was broke and a new one was over $20 so I made one from heavy wire with a 'z' bend in the middle for the 'adjustment'. It was still working when it left here.
@@lewiemcneely9143 I am not big on making cables. I figure the time it takes to make a cable is worth more than the price of the cable(unless it's a really pricey cable)
Excellent video! It's sad how cheaply these newer engines are made. Give me an old L head any day. I guess that's the way things are going though, plastic everything. One of my projects is to restore an old cast aluminum deck Snapper self propelled walk behind. It's slow going but will look awesome when finished.
Just bought a brand new one from Home deport after assembling it lasted 5 mins and whent dead on itself..... Am thinking may be it has over heated for some reasons .....
❤love the video. I think you did all you could do . I think maybe polishing the ignition coil and maybe also polishing the needle with a q tip on a drill motor wouldve gotten you the 1-2 pull range you wanted. But ive successfully flipped mowers worse than this.
I'm having the wheel issue too on thr exact same mower. Only this insert will not budge on that axel! I have tried and tried and tried and nothing is working to loosen it up. Its completely locked and glued in there it seens. I dont know what else to do
sure no problem... You'll want to "break up" the gunk holding the insert to the axel. Don't use lube. Try using brake cleaner instead and it's going to take some time to work. If possible have gravity help you by "tilting" the mower so that the threads are facing upward. Then spray some carb cleaner on the edge of the insert and let gravity drag it down the axel. You'll have to do it a couple of times in the hour and then finally get a chisel to help push the insert away from the arm. Eventually, it will come loose!
Hello, have you checked the valve clearance? I've a similar engine (B&S 550E) on my Al-Ko 475 sp-a highline, and every year I need to check for the valve clearance and I always find it a bit off, which makes the mower hard to start and/or non have constant RPM running engine. COnsidering the state of the oil, I'm pretty sure it has never been checked and regulated on this one. Also the fact that it seems to "spit out" gas from the intake may be a sign of that too.
The only time i will order OEM belts is for my chainsaws or my 4 wheeler. Watching you lubricate the wheels reminds me that i need to do that to my mowers
lots of complications from a simple , uncomplicated mower , lol . when trying to bring one back from the dead , my 1st try is to squirt gas in carb . 2nd try (no matter how good it looks) is to change the plug . for initial testing i prefer to use the plug from another mower that runs well , over installing a new one , because even new ones are sometimes faulty . worked for hours trying to get one of my new to me jd riders started once . plug looked great , but it was faulty . hard learned lesson .
I have a question for you, my leaf blower (Stihl) runs, kind of idles and revs but won’t rev all the way and then dies. I checked the spark plug because that was the easiest thing I could do, and it was fine. Any ideas
sure, try removing the spark arrestor screen in the tail pipe of the muffler and see If it's clogged up with carbon, if so ,clean it off and try again and see if it makes a difference
I agree i think the valves need attention, these things are laughable the way they are built, the rocker arms are so chintzy they feel like they will bend easy, i have done valve adjustments on these and they run like a new one.
I have a mower just like that one ,it's not wanting to start either ,I think it might be water in the gas ,or ,we also have roaches in our house ,we keep the mower on the front porch ,of some may have gotten into it as well please help if you can let me know what do you think about it I also changed the spark plug ,still not starting ,,I have changed the gas yet ,there might be water in the gas because i keep it in the back of our pickup truck ,the spout sticking up ,water may have gotten the gas can !!
A lot, it depends on the mower and what kind of carb and choke system it has. It also depends if the engine is an overhead valve. Since I'm not sure which one you have, I'll going to say that I would give the mower a tune up first.
I have the TroyBilt TB200 mower with the same problem. I removed the carb and took it apart and cleaned all the parts and then assembled it and installed it. Mower still won't start. I used some starting fluid and it started on the first pull but only ran until all the starting fluid was used up. The fact that it will start tells me I can eliminate the spark plug, wiring and magnito. Since it takes spark and fuel to make an engine run the problem must be on the fuel side. I had emptied the fuel tank of all the old gas and added new gas, so it is not a gas problem. Must still be a problem with the carb. Do you have any ideas what to try next?
sure, if it was me, I would just order a new carb, because they are very affordable. Otherwise keep cleaning, but you might find it to be time you can't get back.
I thought it was valve trouble by all the sputtering out the intake but I could be wrong since 99% or better of my trials and tribulations have been with flatheads. I always had to start at square 1 on all mine because you never know and we're switching, partially. I can take care of a couple of gassers EASILY but as long as the wife is doing the yard, more power to her and I'll get whatever she wants to make her job easier.And YES it costs and you can't buy happiness BUT you can sure help it along if you're able. Thanks and Blessings
When I worked at a small engine dealership. I realized very quickly that the problems were rarely the engines fault, but mostly the customers fault. One example I have is a customer let the mower sit with gas in it outside all winter long come spring it didn't start. This happened every year. I did recommend to him true fuel and after he switched to true fuel never had to fix that carburetor again.
On that mower you can use pliers to remove the hose clamps. Pinch the ling, remove hose clamp from carb side. Remove the fuel line from the carb, put fuel line end into a bottle, remove the clamp from fuel line. Gravity will drain the tank for you. You can also use an extraction pump. I have a Briggs and Stratton branded model.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE i just figured ide ask to see if ya did it. Cause in a few of your previous videos of other mowers when they were hard to start the valves needed to be adjusted.
On machines I'm fixing up to flip, I use Napa brand semi-synthetic 5W-30 oil (which is decent stuff and always dirt cheap). But for my own machines, I mayyyyyyyyy use Mobil1 0W-30 full synthetic :D
No, it doesn't; I would still stick with gas. Are you referencing guys like me who use full synthetic Amsoil small engine oil (at the correct viscosity)?🤣🤣🤣🤣 As you said, use what you want, but the Amsoil is good for 200hrs, so it is good for people who have issues changing their oil. I change it yearly unless my mower doesn't get used. if that's not what you mean, what do you mean? Great video, I have learned a lot from you!
Oh I wasn't talking about you, I've been getting some unsavory messages about my choices. Yours are constructive, and I appreciate that. the others are "pushy" comments.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I figured that!! Why can't some people learn to keep their mouths and fingers quiet? If they don't like your choice, then don't watch. People are something...
It seems there is another jet you haven’t clean up that made the start difficult. Also some jet I use a .020” drill or smaller wire to make sure the hole is totally through . Carb cleaner sometimes not able to dissolve all dirt.
nope not at all and by the sounds of the mower starting at the end i reckon the spark plug might be due for a replacement just by seeing the water in the fuel i reckon etc.
If you siphoned the gas out, there may have been a small amount of water left somewhere in the system, which would make it start a bit strangely. I like to fully remove the tank, empty it. And let it dry out in the sun for a bit.
Man I dint know what it is....I work in a VERY busy shop....Maybe 36 to 47 pieces a day......water in the fuel is the problem 6 times out if 10. It's really strenge...it wasn't like that last year, but economy was different then.
I used to work in the assembly department of a big box store( until we were made redundant) and we sold this brand of mower. We had to look at the returns and see what could be saved or scraped. We would get this brand back saying it wouldn’t start and find out that they never pulled the handles out of the body of the mower deck and the blades would not turn. Nobody reads the assembly instructions or their just stupid. I could tell you horror stories of power equipment returns of how customers destroyed brand new machines then bring them back for a refund saying they stopped working.
I got a push mower with the linkage broken and bent She said her 16 year old son tryed to start it but it broke setting in garage Well I tryed really hard not to laugh I said it must have broken itself because it didn’t want to mow the yard She looked really funny and it hit her I guess she will come back to get it Lololo
I'd be careful viewing reel mowers through a rose-colored, maintenance-free glasses. I had one, and the amount of maintenance was about the same. But... it was fragile. Bump it into something hard, like concrete or brick, and it will never cut the same. One or more blades will be bent. I never got mine properly sharpened again after a blade or two got tweaked.
I guess battery powered equipment would eliminate the fuel issues but there’s still basic care and maintenance that needs to be done on any machine. Soon we’ll be seeing dead battery mowers at the curb, only difference is I won’t be picking them up!
unfortunately the oil was able to make it it not the carb and probably soaked the air filter too. Remove the Air filter and clean what oil you can see inside the opening of the carb. Leave the filter out for a test start to get it working again and if it does, then replace the air filter.
Briggs and Stratton brilliant design that is a failure. Just as Hondas GCV160 GJAEA engine with thier thermowax and thermostat carburetor systems.. Both of these motors are failures and stay away from them
@@RexenPrime to many things to monitor to keep it running right *just youtube wont start, frozen wheels **ect...to much to tell im sorry that I didnt UA-cam problems with troybuilt lawn movers***Its mind boggling just to get it started for one***Im selling to the first person who looks even remotely interested in it**Im Sorry that i bought it**found out before i got it that it wouldnt start,, ive always gotten regular lawn motor that wouldnt start to work , but this one NO WAY BILLYRAY
You certainly had your hands full on this one. The fiddle fairies had been in there for sure with the intake seal. That oil looks like it had never been changed. Great job as always. I love the narration.
Thanks and I appreciate your time
Thank you for this video- I was about to pull my hair out with starting my mower, and I found out the choke was stuck open. I really appreciate the time and effort you took to make this. Thanks for the help
Glad it helped
Hey bro, what's up? I believe that the previous owner of this mower tried to see if they could of serviced it for themself but ended up doing more harm than good and just gave up eventually. Being the skilled person you are, you was able to identify and resolve the problems with this mower and saved it from the scrap yard and gave it a second chance at being useful to someone else.
I totally agree with you.
Your hard start may require adjusting the valve train or the flywheel keyway may have been compromised by a hard hit on an object in the lawn. Either is an easy fix, you already did the major stuff that only a skilled mechanic could have resolved. Awesome video.
yes I agree with you
That's interesting. My mower started having problems after I hit a large clump of grass. I'd like to learn more about that keyway you mentioned.
Nice!! Only thing I would add to what you did is check & clean plug & check the valve gaps......Great video!!!
you already know what I'm going to do in the next installment
One of my friends gave me one of these "ready start" TB110's that he found at the recycling center. Very low hours but the carburetor was beyond hope so I ordered the primer bulb version of the carb for about $15 on a gamble. I think the better needle valve has four faces and a Viton tip. Oiled foam probably does reduce performance but gas economy is best near the bottom end of the torque curve ~2400 anyway. Still using my 25 year old L head till the new magneto and blade are paid off. Thank you for the video!
nice and no problem
This video combined with some good advice got my mower working again. That was a nice trick you showed with the drill to get it spinning again. Ultimately my carburetor needed cleaning and that’s what solved the problem.
nice and thank you.
Mine quit running yesterday with half of my yard to go. It would start up fine and then sputter out after a second or two. I disassembled and cleaned the carburetor, changed the air filter and spark plug, filled the tank with brand new ethanol free gasoline and and changed the oil. I really fixed it. Now it won't start at all.
But in defense of the TB110. I've been using this mower for close to a decade now. I will fix it.
good luck to you on it, it seems that it's been a real trooper this last decade.
Man, you know....I love each of your vids... the first 10 secs had me balling lol 😆
I appreciate that!
It's a reliable Little engine that lawn mower made me so much money. Yeah it may be cheap but I had that lawn mower since 2013 no problems. Only thing now the pull string is getting weak which is normal over time. Mines also was garage kept. It's been a few times when I cut a acre or two with that little lawn mower and I'm still using it to this day 😆
very nice! It's doing well for you.
At 4:25, some may not know, but behind this U shaped carb. support bracket is another o-ring. I have found a couple allowing a small vacuum leak causing a bit of rpm fluctuation. good video!
thank you for the information
I wish they would send two orings in kits
Not mower related but thanks to your videos, I got my free Bolens weed eater to run! Just a clogged screen!
no problem and nice work!
Awesome video ... I am going to go through my mower step by step to check everything you showed us ... because my mower is identical to yours all the way to not starting ... I changed the spark plug and though it was filthy it didn't help .. still won't start ... Again thank I will ck everything first thing tomorrow morning... 😊 Angel
I hope you can get it running again!
Wow, that is a lot of problems you sure fixed it up good. Thank you for the video
You bet and it certainly had to be a record of some sort
I like the part where you said there are 4 wheels at each corner. I like watching your repairs.👍
Glad you like them!
I obtained a similar mower with a wheel that didn't spin properly....rust on the axle sleeve. The plastic hub was grinding on the splined insert. I made the mistake of using vise-grip pliers to grip and attempt to spin / loosen the metal sleeve. I did not realize how brittle the insert was. It broke into a couple pieces. I used wet/dry sandpaper to remove the rust, glued the insert pieces back together with superglue and carefully pressed it back into the plastic wheel. I then greased the spindle and carefully put the wheel back onto the axle, making sure that it rotated FREELY. I like the idea of brake fluid as a penetrant. Thanks
hey nice work!
Great work again Hopefully you cleaned out the part of carb closest to the engine. It seemed really dirty after running it with the misplaced o-ring.
I also see quite some bad repairs where you ask yourself how did they not get it. Often parts put back in the wrong order. Last one a husqvarna height adjustment assembly right rear wheel 😢
thank you for concern
After countless problems getting it to work reliably, my own TB110 and I have decided to part ways. I wish it well decomposing.
sorry to hear that
Great! Appreciate your video. I have a TB100 and it would not start. Usually I spray starter fluid in it but not being used for a few months it would not start/stay on. I was able to take the parts apart from carb (thanks to your help) and clean out the jet, misc items. [I did replace the fuel before I began this project but still would not start or stay on - just the shot of starting fluid]. I reassembled the carb, blow out other areas, checked wheels. Put fuel in, primed a few times and STARTED RIGHT UP ON FIRST PULL - no leaking fuel, runs great. Again APPRECIATE YOUR VIDEO! I figured there was a carb issue and could of bought one but I tell myself you wont learn anything like that so I gave it a shot. Carbs dont cost that much but now I know whats inside of there. Got a backup lawn mower that I have to spray starter fluid to get it going so later I will take that carb apart too.
Great work and your persistence paid off nicely!
Maybe cleaning the spark plug at the end, or replacing the one that came with the machine would help it start better....
yes I take care of the spark plug and a few other items in a later video.
All this pulling (happy 5th) reminds me of the vacuum chokes on the older flatheads before the bi-metalic strip assists. The dashpot would pull the choke open every time the engine was pulled which worked fine when it was cold but starting out with a closed choke loaded it to death when warm. The only way I could find to overcome this last jag was to pull it and keep the motor turning enough to keep the engine turning steady to overcome the vacuum and the choke to stay open. No wonder I talk to myself but this was years ago since the 'All Climate' bi-metalic choke setup came out in 85 on the 4 horse Briggs which works wonderfully, yet and still. 2nd pull all the time, cold or hot and usually 1st when hot. Blessings!
thank you sharing that, I noticed it was acting that way in this video.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I try!
Tip….paint your Allen wrench a bright color that fits the carb bowl on these. Saves time trying to fit the right one in there😂
good tip
13:47 Six years ago, a mower like this probably would have driven me to reel and/or electric mowers. Back then, I had a mower that started to sputter and stall just a couple years after buying it. I didn't know what I was doing, so I tried a few different things--removing and cleaning the carburetor, replacing the primer base, cleaning the spark plug--but I did not successfully fix it until I swapped in the carb from another mower (both mowers had Briggs & Stratton quantum flatheads). Despite finally succeeding, all that aggravation led me to try both reel and electric mowers, as I did not yet realize that switching to either one would amount to trading one set of problems for another.
yes you don't really get rid of the problems just get a different set of them
Hello. i'm staying here watching your video wish you a lot of health.❤
thank you for your energy, I need all I can get
I was surprised you didnt check the spark plug considering that there didnt seem to be any matainence ever performed on it.
Mine is fairly new (1-2 yrs old) oil is clean and i went thru the carb last year before I put it to rest for the winter.
Today, when I started it, it ran good for a couple minutes, then when i tried to mow a large clump os grass, it sort of petered out, then wouldn't start. Then, the full tank of gas began to drip out of the carb cover.
It was stored with no gas during winter. The plug looks good with gas on it.
I took the carb off and retightened everything. It is no linger leaking and started once at a very low RPM. I might try the drill to turn the engine over like you did.
unless the engine was burning oil, I don't typically check the plug.
That one was definitely a victim of a shade tree mechanic
you got that right, all shade and no mechanics
You talking about me again? Remember I come from a long line of goofy people.
@lewiemcneely9143 I didn't think you would hear me from there 🤣
The linkage was the funny part for me, when I see things like that, I start expecting drywall screws holding parts on. 🙄
@@GuysPlayingWithTools I've got selectric hearing when it works. On the Snapper I put the Kawasaki motor on, the nice fancy plastic coated with the pot metal ends cable from the handle to the belt tightener was broke and a new one was over $20 so I made one from heavy wire with a 'z' bend in the middle for the 'adjustment'. It was still working when it left here.
@@lewiemcneely9143 I am not big on making cables. I figure the time it takes to make a cable is worth more than the price of the cable(unless it's a really pricey cable)
After 10 yrs of working in a "Toro" shop, I'll go with a Honda. In addition to 4 yrs at Sears, 1 yr at Montgomery Wards, and 3 yrs at NT&E.
wow nice resume
Thank you got my lawnmower back on
no problem and thank you for your time
Excellent video! It's sad how cheaply these newer engines are made. Give me an old L head any day. I guess that's the way things are going though, plastic everything. One of my projects is to restore an old cast aluminum deck Snapper self propelled walk behind. It's slow going but will look awesome when finished.
you and me both, and I'd take an old L head any day
The last problem was the owner...
you got that right
Just bought a brand new one from Home deport after assembling it lasted 5 mins and whent dead on itself..... Am thinking may be it has over heated for some reasons .....
have you checked the Oil level?
YOU'RE THE MAN!
Thank you
❤love the video. I think you did all you could do . I think maybe polishing the ignition coil and maybe also polishing the needle with a q tip on a drill motor wouldve gotten you the 1-2 pull range you wanted. But ive successfully flipped mowers worse than this.
interesting idea.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE i use BARKEEPERS FRIEND liquid( as a polish), as it dissolves calcium and rust, and most importantly is super cheap.
I'm having the wheel issue too on thr exact same mower. Only this insert will not budge on that axel! I have tried and tried and tried and nothing is working to loosen it up. Its completely locked and glued in there it seens. I dont know what else to do
sure no problem... You'll want to "break up" the gunk holding the insert to the axel. Don't use lube. Try using brake cleaner instead and it's going to take some time to work. If possible have gravity help you by "tilting" the mower so that the threads are facing upward. Then spray some carb cleaner on the edge of the insert and let gravity drag it down the axel. You'll have to do it a couple of times in the hour and then finally get a chisel to help push the insert away from the arm. Eventually, it will come loose!
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE thank you so much!
no problem
Great info, thank you for this video 🙏
Glad it was helpful!
Funny enough, the one I’m fixing was given to me by my neighbor, not kidding. !! Gratefully, it still looks pretty new.
that's Awesome!
Hello, have you checked the valve clearance? I've a similar engine (B&S 550E) on my Al-Ko 475 sp-a highline, and every year I need to check for the valve clearance and I always find it a bit off, which makes the mower hard to start and/or non have constant RPM running engine. COnsidering the state of the oil, I'm pretty sure it has never been checked and regulated on this one.
Also the fact that it seems to "spit out" gas from the intake may be a sign of that too.
Not yet but that's coming up in the next video
The only time i will order OEM belts is for my chainsaws or my 4 wheeler. Watching you lubricate the wheels reminds me that i need to do that to my mowers
nice, I was hoping It would help to remind someone to do it too.
lots of complications from a simple , uncomplicated mower , lol . when trying to bring one back from the dead , my 1st try is to squirt gas in carb . 2nd try (no matter how good it looks) is to change the plug . for initial testing i prefer to use the plug from another mower that runs well , over installing a new one , because even new ones are sometimes faulty . worked for hours trying to get one of my new to me jd riders started once . plug looked great , but it was faulty . hard learned lesson .
nice methods!
I have a question for you, my leaf blower (Stihl) runs, kind of idles and revs but won’t rev all the way and then dies. I checked the spark plug because that was the easiest thing I could do, and it was fine.
Any ideas
sure, try removing the spark arrestor screen in the tail pipe of the muffler and see If it's clogged up with carbon, if so ,clean it off and try again and see if it makes a difference
I agree i think the valves need attention, these things are laughable the way they are built, the rocker arms are so chintzy they feel like they will bend easy, i have done valve adjustments on these and they run like a new one.
I know right, talk about cost cutting
what size hex do you use to loosen the bowl bolt ?
10mm Allen for the drain in the bowl. And 7mm socket for the 2 screws
I have a mower just like that one ,it's not wanting to start either ,I think it might be water in the gas ,or ,we also have roaches in our house ,we keep the mower on the front porch ,of some may have gotten into it as well please help if you can let me know what do you think about it I also changed the spark plug ,still not starting ,,I have changed the gas yet ,there might be water in the gas because i keep it in the back of our pickup truck ,the spout sticking up ,water may have gotten the gas can !!
sure drain the fuel at the carb and the bowl, add fresh fuel and try again.
What would make mower hesitate and run not efficient?
A lot, it depends on the mower and what kind of carb and choke system it has. It also depends if the engine is an overhead valve. Since I'm not sure which one you have, I'll going to say that I would give the mower a tune up first.
I have the TroyBilt TB200 mower with the same problem. I removed the carb and took it apart and cleaned all the parts and then assembled it and installed it. Mower still won't start. I used some starting fluid and it started on the first pull but only ran until all the starting fluid was used up. The fact that it will start tells me I can eliminate the spark plug, wiring and magnito. Since it takes spark and fuel to make an engine run the problem must be on the fuel side. I had emptied the fuel tank of all the old gas and added new gas, so it is not a gas problem. Must still be a problem with the carb. Do you have any ideas what to try next?
sure, if it was me, I would just order a new carb, because they are very affordable. Otherwise keep cleaning, but you might find it to be time you can't get back.
I thought it was valve trouble by all the sputtering out the intake but I could be wrong since 99% or better of my trials and tribulations have been with flatheads. I always had to start at square 1 on all mine because you never know and we're switching, partially. I can take care of a couple of gassers EASILY but as long as the wife is doing the yard, more power to her and I'll get whatever she wants to make her job easier.And YES it costs and you can't buy happiness BUT you can sure help it along if you're able. Thanks and Blessings
You've got a great ear!
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I saw it spitting back out the intake. If the choke had been fixed I'd have missed it.
When I worked at a small engine dealership. I realized very quickly that the problems were rarely the engines fault, but mostly the customers fault. One example I have is a customer let the mower sit with gas in it outside all winter long come spring it didn't start. This happened every year. I did recommend to him true fuel and after he switched to true fuel never had to fix that carburetor again.
you are absolutely correct
what is the cleaner you use on your mowers ?
it's the only degreaser Harbor Freight sells, it doesn't have a proper name for it.
Don't you just LOVE B&S EXi engines? Oh, and especially one that someone has been messing with already, lol.
I know right!
An other amazing repair. 👍🙏👍🙏
Thanks 👍
What do you use to drain the gas tank?
On that mower you can use pliers to remove the hose clamps. Pinch the ling, remove hose clamp from carb side. Remove the fuel line from the carb, put fuel line end into a bottle, remove the clamp from fuel line. Gravity will drain the tank for you. You can also use an extraction pump. I have a Briggs and Stratton branded model.
it's just gravity and a siphon.
What size socket did you use to spin the engine?
I think it's a 24mm
Did you check the valve lash on it?
if I didn't do it on screen, I most certainly did it in a follow up video, or off camera.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE i just figured ide ask to see if ya did it. Cause in a few of your previous videos of other mowers when they were hard to start the valves needed to be adjusted.
I have one of these for a year . The carburator has trash inside . Easy fix . I put grease on the wheels once a year
nice work!
On machines I'm fixing up to flip, I use Napa brand semi-synthetic 5W-30 oil (which is decent stuff and always dirt cheap). But for my own machines, I mayyyyyyyyy use Mobil1 0W-30 full synthetic :D
nice!
Great video!! I subbed!!!
Thanks for the sub!
No, it doesn't; I would still stick with gas. Are you referencing guys like me who use full synthetic Amsoil small engine oil (at the correct viscosity)?🤣🤣🤣🤣 As you said, use what you want, but the Amsoil is good for 200hrs, so it is good for people who have issues changing their oil. I change it yearly unless my mower doesn't get used. if that's not what you mean, what do you mean? Great video, I have learned a lot from you!
Oh I wasn't talking about you, I've been getting some unsavory messages about my choices. Yours are constructive, and I appreciate that. the others are "pushy" comments.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I figured that!! Why can't some people learn to keep their mouths and fingers quiet? If they don't like your choice, then don't watch. People are something...
It seems there is another jet you haven’t clean up that made the start difficult. Also some jet I use a .020” drill or smaller wire to make sure the hole is totally through . Carb cleaner sometimes not able to dissolve all dirt.
oh I see what you mean, actually I take care of the hard start and it wasn't carb related at all.
Change the spark plug?
worth a shot
Excellent
Thanks
nope not at all and by the sounds of the mower starting at the end i reckon the spark plug might be due for a replacement just by seeing the water in the fuel i reckon etc.
you would be correct, I take a better look at it in a later video, thank you Patrick Stapleton.
Trans fluid and acetone works great to break free anything
from what I've heard yes, but from what I've seen, it's hit or miss.
I have a similar model mower. I barely have to put any effort into starting it.
very nice mower you've got there
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Mine has the front wheel drive self-propel. It has been quite reliable.
If you siphoned the gas out, there may have been a small amount of water left somewhere in the system, which would make it start a bit strangely. I like to fully remove the tank, empty it. And let it dry out in the sun for a bit.
that works too
4 wheels at each corner?
LOL!! you got the joke
i have same lawnmower which mine won't start new spark plug new fuel this wasn't any n it filter look good wish u lived close by lol
I get that a lot.
i think watching your video i could fix mine jus finding the time
That one definitely needs the Rock to start it!
LOL!!!
Man I dint know what it is....I work in a VERY busy shop....Maybe 36 to 47 pieces a day......water in the fuel is the problem 6 times out if 10. It's really strenge...it wasn't like that last year, but economy was different then.
yes you correct
Loose nut behind the push handle is a potential problem.
thank you for that
Adding a fuel filter on this will prevent any carb clogging issues in the future.
thanks
Set the valve lash
thanks
Mine will
Run when u feed it has through the carb
hope you can fix it
Mines brand new out the box and it will not start I've got oil in it and gas still no start the spark plug is brand new. So idk
strange, but what I would do would be to put some fuel into the carbs throat and try starting it a few times that way.
I used to work in the assembly department of a big box store( until we were made redundant) and we sold this brand of mower. We had to look at the returns and see what could be saved or scraped. We would get this brand back saying it wouldn’t start and find out that they never pulled the handles out of the body of the mower deck and the blades would not turn. Nobody reads the assembly instructions or their just stupid. I could tell you horror stories of power equipment returns of how customers destroyed brand new machines then bring them back for a refund saying they stopped working.
yes I know right! you had to wonder why they didn't realize its handle was a foot short thats it's supposed to be
a 16 wheel mower?
you got the joke
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE you need to take care of this
i love machines but, that thing took way too much to crank up and run.. i probably would give up by problem number five unless i was truly desperate.
I know right, I lost count
I like a challenge.
you and me both
I got a push mower with the linkage broken and bent
She said her 16 year old son tryed to start it but it broke setting in garage
Well I tryed really hard not to laugh
I said it must have broken itself because it didn’t want to mow the yard
She looked really funny and it hit her
I guess she will come back to get it
Lololo
Nice! at least she finally figured it out.
I'd be careful viewing reel mowers through a rose-colored, maintenance-free glasses. I had one, and the amount of maintenance was about the same. But... it was fragile. Bump it into something hard, like concrete or brick, and it will never cut the same. One or more blades will be bent. I never got mine properly sharpened again after a blade or two got tweaked.
I see your point, but I never saw them as maintenance free either.
Oh crap, I have one of these. RIP.
they can certainly have their issues
4 wheels at each corner ?
Why on earth would any lawnmower need 16 wheels ?😅
I guess battery powered equipment would eliminate the fuel issues but there’s still basic care and maintenance that needs to be done on any machine. Soon we’ll be seeing dead battery mowers at the curb, only difference is I won’t be picking them up!
yes you are correct I'm finding electrics for cheap minus the battery and chargers though.
This mower is simple to me but perhaps it's owner needs to get something different.
yes I think they did that's why the gave it away.
Valve lash adjustment...
you got it.
Some body messed around with this mower
it seems like it
I flipped my lawnmower upside down to clean it and it won’t start now
unfortunately the oil was able to make it it not the carb and probably soaked the air filter too. Remove the Air filter and clean what oil you can see inside the opening of the carb. Leave the filter out for a test start to get it working again and if it does, then replace the air filter.
I hate auto choke shit. I prefer primer bulbs
I know right!
Who the hell would make a carb out of plastic?
they do apparently
Worst Mower I have ever owned. Had to pull the Carb and gas tank off and clean before I could even fire it up!
did you leave gasoline in it over the winter? These are known for that issue.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Nope it was hours old and from Tractor Supply NIB.
The worst engine briggs made.
they certainly have their issues
This style Briggs engines are junk......I think whoever you sell this too will have problems very shortly down the road.
they certainly don't make them like they used to. If they don't do the end of the year maintenance on it, it's bound to have issues.
This Mower Sucks...it is the bane of my existence. So so bad. Used it 4 times. It's been broke since.....
wow sorry to hear that
Briggs and Stratton brilliant design that is a failure. Just as Hondas GCV160 GJAEA engine with thier thermowax and thermostat carburetor systems..
Both of these motors are failures and stay away from them
I like them both but for someone else that's great advice
Troy built movers SUCK*** im selling mine for a regular Non brand Cheapo without all the Ying/Yang problems
Whats bad about them? Ive never owned one, so Id really like to know.
@@RexenPrime to many things to monitor to keep it running right *just youtube wont start, frozen wheels **ect...to much to tell im sorry that I didnt UA-cam problems with troybuilt lawn movers***Its mind boggling just to get it started for one***Im selling to the first person who looks even remotely interested in it**Im Sorry that i bought it**found out before i got it that it wouldnt start,, ive always gotten regular lawn motor that wouldnt start to work , but this one NO WAY BILLYRAY
First
thanks
You gotta work out some man